Toyota Frozen Lower Control Arm Bolts, Myth Debunked
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- Опубликовано: 11 июн 2022
- Why coating with Never-Seize WILL NOT WORK to prevent the alignment bolts on a Toyota IFS from freezing up. The alignment cam bolts going through the lower control arm bushings on Toyotas are notorious for rusting and freezing up, preventing a proper frontend alignment. Not allowing full adjustment of camber and caster. This is true for the Toyota 4Runner, FJ Cruiser, Tacoma, and possibly other Toyota SUVs. I explain why it's not the bolt that freezes up. It's actually a separate steel sleeve going through the bushing sleeve that gets frozen in place.
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You know I’ve been watching y’all for a long time and I don’t even have a Toyota but I find you and your wife very entertaining. Thanks for making videos.
Thank you!
The products from SPC have changed the design slightly at least for my second generation Tundra. Both long and short bolts have a flat cut into them where by both bolts DO turn the adjustment cam washers. Looks like they saw the same issue and made the change. Good video.
Also the “plastic spacer” Is in fact a Delrin bushing.
Keep the vids coming, you’ve taught me a lot about my 4 runner…..TY
Thank you, we will!
Fixing mine by installing cam eliminators. SPC upper control arms allow me to make all the adjustments needed with the upper ball joint.
Thanks! Both our 4Runner and GX have this issue, know it makes more sense.
Hoping to see that video soon! I just ordered the replacement uppers and deciding on lowers… SPC cheats with a poly sleeve… that I hear bad things about… think I’ll stick with a greaseable ACDelco or … yep I’m gonna say it… Moog.
I have a northeast 05 runner and a cam/caster adjustment was probably never done in its 17 years of life. I went to install a lift kit and reading up I was simply convinced that the Cam/Caster adjusters would be seized...so did the right thing and without even checking I ordered 2 new LCA and OEM hardware...But to my surprise nothing was seized. Rusty but not seized. Coulda saved a few bucks and returned the new parts but I proceeded with replacement and applied a liberal amount of anti-seize to the LCA bushing sleeve, caster sleeve, and bolts. Lesson learned: check 1st
Same here except 2011 Tacoma. It would be funny if the same thing happens to me. I am still in the window of return with Rock Auto Parts.
Wow...great quick and succinct video. Love it! Thank you!
You are so welcome!
I just put 38.5x 11 x15 tires on and now when I turn left at 50 mph it feels like my tire wants to fold under the rig. I just put new upper and lower ball joints from Toyota and just put new tie bar, the rod ends, wheel bearings. Is it my control arm bushings? And I just had it allighned at Toyota. It feels like I'm getting on 3 wheels at 50 and up. Any Ideas what I should replace next.
I had my drivers side replaced with the SPC’s three years ago, and they are still holding strong.
About to do the frozen passenger side which means unfortunately cutting them out. Potentially having to replace the LCA bushings as well
At this point, I am considering replacing both sides entire LCA, as I would in addition like to replace my ball joints.
Do you have any suggestions for an aftermarket LCA for a Tundra that does not see hard off-road use? Napa greaseables and Moog seem to be two that have the added zerk fitting
Thanks for the great video.
I guess this is a common problem for toyota people cause my 05 is300 got the same issue. Alignment guys told me they can't turn that bolt. So my question is do I need to replace the whole control arm and do the bolts come with it? I don't plan on keep my car much longer anyways maybe a couple more years hopefully max. Do I still need to take that preventive maintenance?
Hey fellas, just a word of caution, the SPC cam bolt kit is know to have some issues. Specifically giving you play with the steering wheel. Seems it might have to do with the plastic case. If you buy OEM, it's not plastic. You'll have to look up the parts one by one but OEM is the safe bet to go if you want to avoid any potential issues down the line.
LOL “trust me”. You’re going to have to explain what “issues” you’ve experienced if you’re going to bash something or someone on my channel. LOL
@@WanderlostOverland I didn't take his comment as "bashing", just something to look into.
@WanderlostOverland oem is better. Spc is not very good. If you need references, refer to any person on a forum that reasonably wheels their truck. Bushings are really bad on spc and this is evident in the reduced life span people commonly experience. Most people get 1yr out of them before they are trash. Paying the extra few hundred bucks is well worth it to get something decent. Spc is really the cheapest of the bunch so it's expected to be substantially worse for offroading. At the very least, upgrading the bushings and balljoints would help but you might as well just buy something better at that point.
@@jeremymclean506 Loose axles just released a video 2 week ago about upgrading UCA and LCA on his 4th Gen 4runner, and he pretty much mirrors your experience. His SPC UCA only lasted a year. Just trying to save people time and money is all.
Did this job today and had to chop the old bolts out. Made an easy job into a real fun job
I’m in a similar situation, just to be clear you cut the bolts and not the actual control arm? I really don’t want to have to spend the $500+ for the arms.
Very informative…thanks!
Where is the link to the video on the aftermarket install?
I just got cam eliminator tabs with poly bushings. No problems yet
I got a 2014 FJ with Total Chaos LCA and I was wondering if the SPC Cam bolts would help me in preventing frozen bolts....Thanks for your time.
They should.
I have trouble removing it. One side i cut with metal saw. But another side i can not even reach. How people doing it ?
I don't have this problem with a 2nd gen gs300. The front and rear lower cam bolts are the same. I actually don't use the rear cam bolts anymore because the arms themselves are fully adjustable
I love how as the truck ages it just upgrades
Great video sir, i went for an alignment but was only able to get the front aligned because the back adjustment point bolt is frozen for 2013 sonata, what steps I can take at this point?
If the alignment was in spec for the rear, i would leave them be, and save your momey for other repairs. If alignment is out, maybe some bushings are worn on the vehicle? OEM rubber seems to be the best quality if you go to replace, but they dont always sell just the bushing like the aftermarket has. Complete unit replacement is usually the way to go if you dont have all the right tools or experience to replace 1 bushing
I need rear cam bolt for 1992 Toyota soarer UZZ30 or sc400
Does this happen on 2015 tundras too
How is your toytec suspension holding up? Looking at the Boss 2.0 for my Tacoma. Love the channel 🤙🏼
Holding up great! We went from the Boss 2.5 to the Aluma 2.5. We prefer the ride quality of the Aluma series.
@@WanderlostOverland Yeah that’s what I meant, boss 2.0 aluma. Great to hear, thanks for the response!
Slightly misleading. You can mark the cam positions with a paint pen and then pull out each cam assembly and anti-seize them as preventative maintenance. For the front adjusters you should anti-seize the sleeve that touches the bushing, as well as where the through-bolt touches the adjuster sleeve. You don't have to do this only when it's brand new, it should be part of ongoing maintenance procedures. People have been doing this for decades, it is nothing new.
That is exactly right. Just lube both the sleeve and bolt. Good informative video though.
PLEASE PLEASE do a BIG 3 Upgrade DIY.
When I use Anti-Seize I apply it liberally to the bolt threads, bolt shaft and the Flange of the Hex bolt head and Nut's inside flange.
Coating the bolt shaft gets the sleeve you are rotating during adjustment coated in anti-seize.
My '02- Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo- 4.7L V8, doesn't have adjusting bolts like this Toyota.
PSA: Don't use Copper or Silver anti-seize!
Use Nickel Anti-Seize instead,
Direct Quote from Loctite "Henkel-Adhesives":
▪︎ "copper anti-seize on stainless steel will create inter-crystalline corrosion which can cause parts to crack or break when under heavy loads." - Loctite Quote
That's why I use Nickel, it's a higher grade anti-seize and you can pick up an 8oz can with brush applicator screw on lid for under $20 which for most DIY Mechanics and garage wrenching is a lifetime supply of anti-seize.
I like these brands
▪︎ Loctite Nickel Anti-Seize ($18 8oz Can)
▪︎ Nickel-Graf Anti-Seize ($16 5oz/$29 8oz)
Both have brush applicator built into the metal screw top lid.
But you can go with others,
▪︎ Permatex is also a very trusted brand when it comes to grease, threadlockers and compounds.
If you put anti-seize on threads then you have to reduce torque by 30%!
Yo do this, simply multiply dry Torque-spec by 0.7 to get the wet(anti-seize) torque number.
Example:
100FT-LBS * 0.7 = 70 ft-lbs
95 Ft-Lbs * 0.7 = 66.5 Ft-Lbs
70 Ft-Lbs * 0.7 = 49 Ft-Lbs
50 ft-lbs * 0.7 = 35 Ft-Lbs
So on my 02 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo manual specifies 100 Ft-Lbs DRY so I would set my Torque Wrench to 70ft-lbs with Anti-Seize on the threads and it would be equivalent to 100FT-LBS Dry
Thank you. Good info
Glad it was helpful!
Where do I get a left rear lower control arm for my 2008 Toyota Sequoia
RockAuto is where we get them sometimes.
How does the dirt king lower control arm design rid you of the bolt/sleeve freezing up issue?
The control arms don't, the SPC cam bolt set does.
@@WanderlostOverland Ok, looking forward to your upcoming video on this! Thanks.
Just spent 2 hours last night cutting mine out!!! 🙃
Went for an alignment at tire discounters, my 2011 Toyota Camry. They said they couldn't finish my alignment because it has an eccentric bolt they couldn't get loose, what would you do? They're talking about applying heat to get it off, but we worry it's going to weaken the metal.
Heating might free it up. Unfortunately, there's a rubber bushing inside that will likely be damaged. Best thing is cut the parts off and install new.
So cut the eccentric bolt off? Or the lower control arm. Trying do this myself instead of paying $1000 or more st a shop.
Dang it I just installed yesterday and wish I saw this haha
So that problem. Is with all 4 runner models including the pro with the fox suspension.
The cambolts and lower control arms are the same for all 4Runner models.
DIY best way to take off rear lower control arms on 2018 Toyota Camry le
Bolts frozen
I live in California my cam bolts came out with no issues....
Do you like the dirt king lower control arms?
We don't have any miles on them yet, but they sure look and feel great!
At what average milage does the freeze occur in your opinion?
If you live in an area where they salt the roads, immediately.
Every vehicle is different but I’ve seen Toyotas as new as 5 years old have seized cam bolts. 10 years old is a guarantee.
@@purcetc And by 15+ yrs, Toyota will tell you they have to replace the whole rear of the vehicle. Just rediculous.
I have 76,000 miles on mine and it's frozen
i have 40k on mine and they are frozen. well one is. plan to cut the bolt and hope to remove the LCA and replace just the assembly
Not a second of this damn video is not the damn truth! I wish every RUclips video can say the same..
I’m trying to get the right lower of now. It’s a bear.
Keep in mind this does not apply to most vehicles
3 mins of talking and no image of the actual bolt or sleeves, I've done this job many times and ALWAYS add anti-seize between the sleeves. it works.
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They come off in Texas! Mine after 200,000 miles never touched were just fine when I changed the lower control arms yesterday
First of all thanks for your great video. I am the sales manager of an adjustable control arm factory in China and I think we can cooperate. What do you think?
PB BLAST IT!! DONE!!
Horrible design. I’m pooched whether or not I lube my sleeves. Salt belt destroys everything. Almost as bad as the E-brake.
What myth are you debunking? Anti-seize does work, you just have to put it in the right spot, no?
Never once in the video do I state that Anti-Seize doesn't work. It doesn't work in the specific application I talk about in the video. That's the premise of the video. Thanks for watching.
That is a POS design.........You said don't use it, then you said use it.
A dielectric grease will be fine..........