I think you guys would open up a whole new market if you built a few house batteries like say 60 or 80 kw. You have the knowledge and the shop and access to great cells. I love seeing how yall are building this business together and you two are now one of my favorites on youtube
I'm currently assembling a 560 ah battery. It's 16 eve grade a 280k cells with the double hole welded terminals. I'm using the 300 amp 24 volt bms with Bluetooth and using a seperate 5 amp active balancer until its balanced good then I'll remove the active balancer. Watching your videos gave me the knowledge to build my own. Thankyou
Glad the videos have been helpful! Good luck with your battery. Feel free to email us if you ever have any questions whilst you’re building the battery - hello@offgridpower.solutions
Interesting build. I would suggest encasing your threaded rods in some PEX tubing to ensure that the metal of the rods never touches the cells and scratch or rips the blue insulation.
I've just purchased the Daly 150a 4s. Very helpful video. The info on these is very scattered and not clear. It'd be helpful to see which sockets on the BMS are used for what peripheral device. Not all are labeled on the BMS itself and it isn't clear from the video.
Hello! This was a live, which is why it was longer and not structured. We have other videos that might be helpful for you on the channel which are a bit more focused. For example, here's a video showing where everything plugs into the BMS: ruclips.net/video/oTYwy9uIbgc/видео.html
If you’re just going to use the rods for compression, LiFeP04 has agreed 12psi. This should be done with the batteries at 50% SOC of your intended range of charging and discharging.
Hey Alain! Thanks for the feedback! Glad that the video was helpful for you! We have not broken a laser welded terminal on cells like the EVE 280AH that we use, but we have stripped the thread in battery terminals before. Here's a video that we made about fixing stripped terminals: ruclips.net/video/I2577yJ-0Y8/видео.html
For some reason they don't put an on switch on the BMS, which is why we supply an on switch with the BMS we sell on our website. :) It depends how much current you need to draw from your system. If you need to pull 200A or less, then go for a 200A BMS or if you need to draw 300A or less, go for a 300A BMS, etc..
It probably could, but depends on how many amps the vehicle drew and what BMS you had on your battery. These batteries aren't really designed for that though, but they probably could do it if you were in a pinch.
I think you would be pushing it to start a car, even a 2 ltr, I’d you try it? Did the bms shut down? A smaller battery with a capacitor is probly a better setup for starting a car. A set of 6 x Maxwell 3000 farad capacitors will start a large Deisel tractor easily and pretty much anything else at 12v, put any ah capacity of lifepo4 battery set you think you will need parralel with capacitors and you have a great car cranking setup.
If you're looking at the 200A BMS on the side where the plug is labelled "Monitor", it's the two pin connector immediately to the left of the "Monitor" connector that turns the BMS on, when the two pins are bridged.
The Daly does passive balancing which means the cells must be reasonably well matched. Grade B unmatched cells may be balance-able with an active balancer, but even then sometimes you’re so different that even an active balancer isn’t enough.
@@offgrid_power i do have one of these, so no need to upgrade. I figured out how to active balance now, there are modules available on a popular chinese site that do balance @ 5amps for about 20 euro. So I'll try one of these.
Hey guys thanks for the informative video. I have an 80 amp Daly smart bms and I don't have the two pin terminal for waking up BMS. My layout is bit different from yours. I have four pin blocks on one side the balance lead at the top. My pin blocks are labeled NTC, (I have the temp lead in there), light board (Nothing plugged in), UART, (Bluetooth in here) then a 5 pin blank with no label. Manual shows this as Can/Bus port. No other ports available. Any ideas for a switch activation I like your idea.
Some of the BMS turn on when you short the two big cables coming out of the BMS (e.g. the blue and black cables that connect to your battery negative terminal and your load/charge negative). You can try short these just with another wire. Obviously, DO NOT short either of these with the positive terminal on your battery.
Do you have information on his same BMS that is not a smart BMS? How does someone get information from them if they do not have the Bluetooth capability?
The DALY 200A BMS I received Came with an instruction sheet depicting a different unit. Only half of the plug-ins are labeled with different names not matching any of the plugs they sent me. I believe everyone is capable of doing an all thread ply box. What I really would appreciate are close-up views of the plug-in gear, female slot pin designation. A good look at the what, where and why would be helpful. Mine came with a flip switch 2 leads on a 6 pin female plug. WTF ?
Hi Rusty. Did you get your BMS from Daly directly? Check this video: studio.ruclips.net/user/video8_LJA31yxeo I go through the detail of where everything plugs in.
Thanks again guys for such a precise talk through. I went smart lifepo4 a while back, but I’ve ordered cells, a smart Daly bms, inverter and all the bits needed just because I’m interested in building a back up battery, including the shorting switch (thanks Nigel 👍)something to carry and use for things like running an induction hob outside for things like our steel pressure cooker, boiling seafood like crabs or lobsters yum yum. I’ll be incorporating an inverter with power sockets (mains, 12v & usb). Have you guys thought about moving towards stand alone rechargeable units for campers needing mains in the wild for a short time? Could be a winner, there are a few posh ones out there, maybe you could undercut them with comparable units? Good luck 👍🇮🇲
Hi Mike! Thanks for the suggestion! We'll definitely consider that! As you say, it could be a winner for sure! We might build one and make a video about it just to test out the idea. :)
Just thinking about the trend for Bluetti power units which seem quite popular currently. I’m sure you guys could compete with a unit perhaps incorporating an inverter, USB ports, 12v ports etc? Food for thought?
The SOC indicator on the Daly BMS can be a bit hit and miss. We would recommend a shunt like a Victron Smart Shunt or JUNCTEK like this: offgridvanlife.squarespace.com/shop/junctek-high-precision-amp-meter-shunt-for-van-builds
@@offgrid_power this is really important information so I hope you respond with what you set your parameters to on the bms. I see you never actually responded to the original question but really hope you do and if you do I will sub..
In theory yes, but it’s not really the correct chemistry for that application. This battery is designed for multiple cycles and fast charging ability rather than very few cycles and a few high draw (e.g. engine starts).
I believe you can draw 3C from these cells, which is around 840amps, so in theory I think it would be ok, if you connect the jumper leads direct to the pos & neg terminals of the battery to start a car, 4wd, etc,m however the cells would suffer with under bonnet temperatures and would probably fail in a much shorter time. A mob in Melbourne, Australia make a 25A lithium battery/capacitor hybred the size of a n70 car battery that will start anything for $380 au.
I'm not a fan of Daly at all after reading so many bad reviews of how their BMS are crap right out of the box. I ended up buying this same unit and........ Yep I had my electrical guy set up the system and instantly the bms would shoot up to 100+Volts and then shut down. I switched it out with an overkill unit works flawlessly. The $160 bucks I spent on the Daly was a huge mistake!!!!
We’ve set up hundreds of Daly BMS and had very few issues. The percentage of failure with Daly BMS is so low these days, you must had just been unlucky.
I think you guys would open up a whole new market if you built a few house batteries like say 60 or 80 kw. You have the knowledge and the shop and access to great cells. I love seeing how yall are building this business together and you two are now one of my favorites on youtube
Thanks Matthew! We’ve built a few 48v rack mount batteries for people, but mostly do van/motorhome stuff. 🙂
I'm currently assembling a 560 ah battery. It's 16 eve grade a 280k cells with the double hole welded terminals. I'm using the 300 amp 24 volt bms with Bluetooth and using a seperate 5 amp active balancer until its balanced good then I'll remove the active balancer. Watching your videos gave me the knowledge to build my own. Thankyou
Glad the videos have been helpful! Good luck with your battery. Feel free to email us if you ever have any questions whilst you’re building the battery - hello@offgridpower.solutions
Interesting build. I would suggest encasing your threaded rods in some PEX tubing to ensure that the metal of the rods never touches the cells and scratch or rips the blue insulation.
Thank you for this. This is exactly what I was needing to learn. 🙏🏽 🌎
Cool was looking to buy those , 200 amp Daly s. The 8s version for my outback 2524.Thanks for the good advice on the little switch.
No problem! Here are the links to the switches on Amazon, incase that's helpful:
geni.us/OnSwitch
geni.us/OnSwitchConnector
So that is a Baby 2 pin connecter? Thanks again!
Yes :)
I've just purchased the Daly 150a 4s. Very helpful video. The info on these is very scattered and not clear. It'd be helpful to see which sockets on the BMS are used for what peripheral device. Not all are labeled on the BMS itself and it isn't clear from the video.
Hello! This was a live, which is why it was longer and not structured. We have other videos that might be helpful for you on the channel which are a bit more focused.
For example, here's a video showing where everything plugs into the BMS: ruclips.net/video/oTYwy9uIbgc/видео.html
If you’re just going to use the rods for compression, LiFeP04 has agreed 12psi. This should be done with the batteries at 50% SOC of your intended range of charging and discharging.
Thanks for the insight. 🙏🏼
Hi, do any of the wires need a fuse? Thanks for the video, great info about the reset / on switch
Do you mean the balance lead wires?
yes turning bms on is a secret :) nice video!
Yes! Thank you!
At 32:07 you say have to bridge to two connectors to turn on the the unit. What is the two connectors?
Hey Adam. Thanks for reaching out! Check this video out, I believe it'll answer your question and show you: ruclips.net/video/oTYwy9uIbgc/видео.html
Hello , good video , i'm french.
I broke a cell terminal (battery falling )
it's possible to fix this part?
Thanks
Hey Alain! Thanks for the feedback! Glad that the video was helpful for you!
We have not broken a laser welded terminal on cells like the EVE 280AH that we use, but we have stripped the thread in battery terminals before.
Here's a video that we made about fixing stripped terminals: ruclips.net/video/I2577yJ-0Y8/видео.html
I have 12v 280a same as that one there. What are ideal settings on Daly 150?
Here’s a video we made that covers the settings we use: ruclips.net/video/coiI2aPjTxU/видео.html
where did you get the lugs with the heat shirnk
These are them here: geni.us/InsulatedLugs
I'm about to do this soon but with a Daly 250A 24V
Nice! Sounds like a good set up!
Bridge terminals to turn it on....they never heard of an on-off switch?
What amperage bms would you suggest for 2x310ah lipos in 12v parallel?
For some reason they don't put an on switch on the BMS, which is why we supply an on switch with the BMS we sell on our website. :)
It depends how much current you need to draw from your system. If you need to pull 200A or less, then go for a 200A BMS or if you need to draw 300A or less, go for a 300A BMS, etc..
Can this bms start a car? Specifically a 2.0 L? Or would the bms shutdown?
It probably could, but depends on how many amps the vehicle drew and what BMS you had on your battery. These batteries aren't really designed for that though, but they probably could do it if you were in a pinch.
I think you would be pushing it to start a car, even a 2 ltr, I’d you try it? Did the bms shut down? A smaller battery with a capacitor is probly a better setup for starting a car. A set of 6 x Maxwell 3000 farad capacitors will start a large Deisel tractor easily and pretty much anything else at 12v, put any ah capacity of lifepo4 battery set you think you will need parralel with capacitors and you have a great car cranking setup.
Which two pins in the BMS do you use, on the monitor side of the 200A three plugs are possible, of which only 1 is with 2 pins...Thanks...
If you're looking at the 200A BMS on the side where the plug is labelled "Monitor", it's the two pin connector immediately to the left of the "Monitor" connector that turns the BMS on, when the two pins are bridged.
Great info thanks. I was wondering if the bms turns itself off does that stop it balancing?
PLEASE #offgrid !! Does the DALY BMS balance the cells? And if so, how many compensation amps does it send to rebalance the cells?
The Daly does passive balancing which means the cells must be reasonably well matched. Grade B unmatched cells may be balance-able with an active balancer, but even then sometimes you’re so different that even an active balancer isn’t enough.
This bms do active or passive balancing ?
Daly BMS are passive balancers.
@@offgrid_power i do have one of these, so no need to upgrade. I figured out how to active balance now, there are modules available on a popular chinese site that do balance @ 5amps for about 20 euro. So I'll try one of these.
Hey guys thanks for the informative video. I have an 80 amp Daly
smart bms and I don't have the two pin terminal for waking up BMS. My layout is bit different from yours. I have four pin blocks on one side the balance lead at the top. My pin blocks are labeled NTC, (I have the temp lead in there), light board (Nothing plugged in), UART, (Bluetooth in here) then a 5 pin blank with no label. Manual shows this as Can/Bus port. No other ports available. Any ideas for a switch activation I like your idea.
Some of the BMS turn on when you short the two big cables coming out of the BMS (e.g. the blue and black cables that connect to your battery negative terminal and your load/charge negative). You can try short these just with another wire. Obviously, DO NOT short either of these with the positive terminal on your battery.
Do you have information on his same BMS that is not a smart BMS? How does someone get information from them if they do not have the Bluetooth capability?
It's not possible to see the information on an app unless you have the bluetooth version.
@@offgrid_power So there is no way to monitor them at all?
You dont!
Can I use that BMS with 8 cells at 12v?
Yes, if you connect the 8 cells as a 2p4s configuration. That would give you a 12v battery.
The DALY 200A BMS I received Came with an instruction sheet depicting a different unit. Only half of the plug-ins are labeled with different names not matching any of the plugs they sent me. I believe everyone is capable of doing an all thread ply box. What I really would appreciate are close-up views of the plug-in gear, female slot pin designation. A good look at the what, where and why would be helpful. Mine came with a flip switch 2 leads on a 6 pin female plug. WTF ?
Hi Rusty. Did you get your BMS from Daly directly?
Check this video: studio.ruclips.net/user/video8_LJA31yxeo
I go through the detail of where everything plugs in.
Thanks again guys for such a precise talk through. I went smart lifepo4 a while back, but I’ve ordered cells, a smart Daly bms, inverter and all the bits needed just because I’m interested in building a back up battery, including the shorting switch (thanks Nigel 👍)something to carry and use for things like running an induction hob outside for things like our steel pressure cooker, boiling seafood like crabs or lobsters yum yum.
I’ll be incorporating an inverter with power sockets (mains, 12v & usb).
Have you guys thought about moving towards stand alone rechargeable units for campers needing mains in the wild for a short time? Could be a winner, there are a few posh ones out there, maybe you could undercut them with comparable units?
Good luck 👍🇮🇲
Hi Mike! Thanks for the suggestion! We'll definitely consider that! As you say, it could be a winner for sure! We might build one and make a video about it just to test out the idea. :)
Just thinking about the trend for Bluetti power units which seem quite popular currently. I’m sure you guys could compete with a unit perhaps incorporating an inverter, USB ports, 12v ports etc?
Food for thought?
Yeah, it's a good idea for sure! We'll get after it and see what we can do! :)
Your points are the black wire and you say this one will go out to the heyday I’m I’m I’m I’m cough cough cough
😂😂😂
how do you balance the cells and setup the bms to show the correct soc all the time?
The SOC indicator on the Daly BMS can be a bit hit and miss. We would recommend a shunt like a Victron Smart Shunt or JUNCTEK like this: offgridvanlife.squarespace.com/shop/junctek-high-precision-amp-meter-shunt-for-van-builds
@@offgrid_power thx, I suspected that, hard to get the seller of the BMS to admit that, nice to hear someone say it out straight. Gonna do that.
:)
What charge settings do you use ?
Do you mean on the Daly BMS or how we charge these DIY LiFePO4 batteries?
I was thinking the settings in the Daly BMS. But if you want to share the charger settings would be great. Thanks
@@offgrid_power both...
@@offgrid_power this is really important information so I hope you respond with what you set your parameters to on the bms. I see you never actually responded to the original question but really hope you do and if you do I will sub..
Can this be an engine start battery
In theory yes, but it’s not really the correct chemistry for that application. This battery is designed for multiple cycles and fast charging ability rather than very few cycles and a few high draw (e.g. engine starts).
I believe you can draw 3C from these cells, which is around 840amps, so in theory I think it would be ok, if you connect the jumper leads direct to the pos & neg terminals of the battery to start a car, 4wd, etc,m however the cells would suffer with under bonnet temperatures and would probably fail in a much shorter time. A mob in Melbourne, Australia make a 25A lithium battery/capacitor hybred the size of a n70 car battery that will start anything for $380 au.
I'm not a fan of Daly at all after reading so many bad reviews of how their BMS are crap right out of the box. I ended up buying this same unit and........ Yep I had my electrical guy set up the system and instantly the bms would shoot up to 100+Volts and then shut down. I switched it out with an overkill unit works flawlessly. The $160 bucks I spent on the Daly was a huge mistake!!!!
We’ve set up hundreds of Daly BMS and had very few issues. The percentage of failure with Daly BMS is so low these days, you must had just been unlucky.
@@offgrid_power Yeah I was one of the unlucky ones maybe next time I won't order off Amazon and go directly to their website.
huh, mine have the on off pins covered.
What model are you using?
@@offgrid_power r32w ge03 250a smart
Unable to see/hear parameter setting. Unfocused/ sound.
Here's a video showing the settings we use: ruclips.net/video/coiI2aPjTxU/видео.html
Man you look just like that comedian dusty slay.
Ha! :)
please tape your spanner man
👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼