I think the problem is still that that too much material has to be moved on a short distance. Plus the strings pull the slide downwards and so causing a lot of friction to the slide.
Fair. I did look into the weight thing and as far as transferable energy goods it should make much difference. I've got a good mod to try that might help alot.
Metal springs have reasonble energy return, but they suck speed wise, a pulley 2:1 with the spring attached as the weight will give a 2:1 length of stroke and velocity increase to a projectile discounting energy lost in the pulley system over the spring pulling the projectile directly.
Hi Dan Nice to see that you are more than a blacksmith, machines, builder, and with a tuch of an engineering to boot. Well diversified in skills, like myself I play with antique engines of 100+ years ago. Some of my restorations get quite interesting, parts missing and none available. There is only one thing to do, make it yourself. Nice job, thanks for sharing. 🙏🏼👍🔥⚒
@darkagerush it needs a hell of a lot more than aerodynamics to make this manky 2x4 lumber peice of S**t look or operate better. Its looks and works like a peice of junk. Don't prop this unskilled wannabe RUclipsr up to make a bigger d**k of himself than he already is.
i dont know if anyone ells has commented on this but you would benefit from having the front mounting point for the rubber higher up so that more of the rebound force of the rubber is used to accelerate the projectile and less energy is lost to the rubber pulling down on the ward and causing friction
@ericanderson2400 play school kids have more skills and fun from making something like from 2x4 timber that look way better than this peice of junk. It's Manky as S**t, you obviously got no skills or design flair either!!
@Valhallaironworks yeah man! Worse to see his unskilled 2x4 timber plank - manky peice of crap to huh. Only thing this guy has going for him is his drive to wanna be a s**t RUclipsr, even that he failed at
Look into fish spear guns, for inspiration. Possibly consider something like an "on-line ballista" configuration. Rope coil under tension 🤔. Very cool "pew pew" ya have going there. 👍⚒️
Lol nice one looks fun as for projects we're you not going to use that case you had out the back to make a press, I'm messing about with a log splitter press at the moment doubt it will work but it's fun trying
#,mking3219 and by raising an axe to it would improve its looks and functionality.... as firewood and using the metal parts as a poker. That crappy thing wouldn't shout through the crust of a rice pudding
Or burning it would be a better option. Imagine showing this 2x4 timber peice of crap to ya mates.. actually with these lack on skills he's probably got not mate. Which is why this wannabe RUclipsr sucks in all you non-skilled watches
Daniel, Great work. Great project. But could you possibly make something for those of us who do not have a machine shop or forge? Perhaps something using scrap wood and scrap metal where there would be only common hand tools and minimal, home handyman power tools needed? That would be great.
@louisaziz1235 this guy's lack of skill is bad enough now let alone making him use even more primitive equipment. He just a wannabe RUclipsr looking for praise for his crappy manky work. This guy needs a reality check not promoting is s**ty lac in skills
I have a good idea for the cocking mechanism I was thinking a simple handle off the side to hold it by, and then some kind of cable with a leather grip to pull the bolt back. I like the beefy design
Thank goodness you are ok Dan. Your videos have helped me so much as a beginner and was worried you won the lotto or something and stopped blacksmithing. 🙂
You can increase the power by adding springsteel limbs (even if they're relatively short) rather than that rod you're currently using. It might even let you go back to using actual springs, as a portion of the tension that was deforming those springs can be taken up by the limbs.
@FormaxusCrucible ...Or the best thing to do with this straight wooden 2x4 plank is to use it as firewood, maybe put the tacky slapped on metal parts as a fire poker. Don't prop this unskilled wannabe RUclipsr up to justify is play school fantasy.
@Technoanima the best way forward for this wannabe RUclipsr is to quite. Even play school kids have better design flair than this unskilled guy. Dame RUclipsr just quit it man - your making a fool outta yourself dude
I did look into this and your quite right mass does affect the way the object moves but no how you think. Force is mass times acceleration increase either and you get more force. However it does reduce acceleration (or the potential to get to it's to its top speed in the given distance). It's the reasons cross bow bolts got so heavy and the bow arms got so big. Move more mass get crazy ass spring to shift it. Basically I need to get the wieght moving at it top speed faster. Does that make sense.
@@danielmoss2089 Crossbow bolts got so heavy, because the big lumpy steel springs they used,had a maximum return speed. Which meant it wasn't going faster than 40-50 m/sec anyway. So they made heavier bolts,which the big lumps of springs could accelerate just as fast,as light ones,but the heavy ones got more of the energy out from the stored energy in the springs. But end result was still very bad efficiency. 15 pounds of steel cranked to 1000 pounds ,accelerating a 1/4 pound bolt to 50 m/s. I can generate that kind of energy by throwing with a centrifugal sling. And I generate it in a split second, not with 30 seconds of spanning.
@@jlasud yeah that's what I'm saying you increase one side of the f=M*A and the figures go up. You don't lose anything because you increase one only if you decrease one. The heavier bolt has more energy in it regardless if you can make it move as fast as some thing lighter. I just need to get the object traveling fasted over the distance. More springs or rubber.
One reason that the projectile loses so much energy that it doesn't even come out of the barrel in a straight line is because of the angle the rubber bands are in.. when you tension it, it mechanism grinds its way back down into the barrel, and is the reason why it fired when you released the trigger. When you fire it, the mechanism gets plowed in into the "roof" of the barrel, until the front spring stops it.. you should feel this when you touch the barrel after a shot: heat.
Increasing the power is easy, just lengthen the barrel/slide and use 4 strips of TheraBand Gold on either side... equal to about 75lbs (34kg) draw weight at 36in (91.4cm)... Just remember...Longer Power Stroke/More Rubber = More Power And for Cocking it you should look into building a Goats Foot (Crossbow Cocking Device) Just modify it to work on the spring bow
Hi I wouldn't be happy with this weapon at all yet. The trigger mechanism is life threatening !!! did I see the gun firing when you release the trigger and not when you pull it? you should also have a securing mechanism .... You need a cocking mechanism so that you can't just pull it up with a vise. The shape of the stock isn't ergonomic either, you would have been much better off copying the shape of a simple air rifle, for example. There is still a lot of work to be done with it ....
I've been wondering that myself. I haven't been trying to contact him, just find something new. His Esty shop is no longer listed under my favorites on Esty. There hasn't been anything new on his website. I have actually thought about asking Alec Steele if he heard anything, before leaving the U.K., since he just came back to the States. I'd just like to know he is okay.
@@robphone4895 That's great. Him being fine, that is. If he is busy enough that RUclips has to fall by the wayside, so be it. I'm sure being a busy blacksmith outweighs being slow enough to make vids.
Nice build real ingenuity I have a few ideas to improve things. From my model aircraft days many years ago when we used surgical tube for catapult launching gliders. If I remember correctly for a 200' line we used 20' of tubing stretched out to 100' which gives a stretch ratio of 5 to 1. It looks like your spring is too thick and under stretched. Reduce the weight of the slider this will both increase the acceleration of the slider and ball as well as reduce the impact on your buffer spring. Make the slider out of a low friction plastic like HDPE or PTFE. and the cocking arm from aluminium. Reduce losses in the spring again from aero modelling to reduce friction losses in rubber motors we used to lubricate the rubber with talc there is always friction between the strands. As far as I'm concerned your content has just been getting better a mix of smithing demos and tutorials with projects is the way to go.
@elanman608 this items a peice of junk made from a manky looking 2x4 timber plank. Maybe you should join him a play school to improve your crappy plane modeling and his s**ty unskilled woodworking knowledge - or lack of. No props for this wannabe RUclipsr
Hi Daniel. The acceleration imparted to the ball bearing in your device is equal to the force (from the spring) divided by the mass of what is being accelerated. (Newton's second law.) But the accelerated mass is not just the ball bearing, but also the cocking plate and the piston. To increase the acceleration, you need to reduce the mass (weight) of the cocking plate and the piston to the absolute minimum. I don't really see why you need a piston at all! Surely a simple pin would do the job.
How about oxy acetylene plasma lighter trigger light oil copper and lead coated ball bearing with semi automatic firing rifled barrel with electromagnetic safety catch 🤔
Dan, not living in the UK like you do, I assume that you've checked to ensure that what you're making won't get you into trouble with your draconian (I think?) anti-gun laws. Regardless of that, a better rubber tube is the type of tube used to feed gas to Bunsen burners like in Chemistry labs, etc., in schools & businesses, so you ought to be able to source some of that type of tube fairly easily. It's pretty stout stuff! ;)
Cool beans. Looking good dude
Wicked idea dan... i feel inspired
Àq
Finally!!! I was Low key waiting for months for this!
Man I'm really glad I just watched part 1 (instead of a year ago) and had part 2 already waiting for me! 🤜🤛
great idea, please continue...
I think the problem is still that that too much material has to be moved on a short distance. Plus the strings pull the slide downwards and so causing a lot of friction to the slide.
Fair. I did look into the weight thing and as far as transferable energy goods it should make much difference. I've got a good mod to try that might help alot.
Also the downward thing is a good call
Not strong , causing of mis alignment and metal friction
Cool project!
Metal springs have reasonble energy return, but they suck speed wise, a pulley 2:1 with the spring attached as the weight will give a 2:1 length of stroke and velocity increase to a projectile discounting energy lost in the pulley system over the spring pulling the projectile directly.
Believe it or not back in the day you used to be able to build crossbows in shop class in high school.👍✌
Love your videos.
Hi Dan
Nice to see that you are more than a blacksmith, machines, builder, and with a tuch of an engineering to boot. Well diversified in skills, like myself I play with antique engines of 100+ years ago. Some of my restorations get quite interesting, parts missing and none available. There is only one thing to do, make it yourself.
Nice job, thanks for sharing.
🙏🏼👍🔥⚒
My vote is definitely for some sort of dart, I think a more aerodynamic projectile will just give you a much better return on power invested
@darkagerush it needs a hell of a lot more than aerodynamics to make this manky 2x4 lumber peice of S**t look or operate better. Its looks and works like a peice of junk. Don't prop this unskilled wannabe RUclipsr up to make a bigger d**k of himself than he already is.
i dont know if anyone ells has commented on this but you would benefit from having the front mounting point for the rubber higher up so that more of the rebound force of the rubber is used to accelerate the projectile and less energy is lost to the rubber pulling down on the ward and causing friction
Braiding the tubbing will increase the tension as well
That is a great project, Dan. :). You obviously had fun making it. Well done. Cheers.
@ericanderson2400 play school kids have more skills and fun from making something like from 2x4 timber that look way better than this peice of junk.
It's Manky as S**t, you obviously got no skills or design flair either!!
Beautiful design crossbow brother 😇👍
Для стрелы нужен большой длительный разгон. Тогда скорость стрелы будет выше. Используйте пластик везде где можно. Это облегчит вес. 🤝👍
Top 👍😎
أنت رائع وقد إستفدت من تصميماتك كثيرا . فهى رائعة ولكنى أرى أن تأثيرها ضعيف نسبيا وإستخدامها مجهد جدا
لكن فى المحصله ما تفعله رائع ومفيد جدا
How can I purchase ??
If you can make those available for sale with a bit ov shaping and tweaking I would buy one of those depending on power but well done mate
Great 👍
Genial Very Nice 😃
Dan the man! Good to see a video from you, mate. Hope you're keeping well.
@Valhallaironworks yeah man! Worse to see his unskilled 2x4 timber plank - manky peice of crap to huh. Only thing this guy has going for him is his drive to wanna be a s**t RUclipsr, even that he failed at
Look into fish spear guns, for inspiration. Possibly consider something like an "on-line ballista" configuration. Rope coil under tension 🤔. Very cool "pew pew" ya have going there. 👍⚒️
Strong Very Nice 😃
Lol nice one looks fun as for projects we're you not going to use that case you had out the back to make a press, I'm messing about with a log splitter press at the moment doubt it will work but it's fun trying
Missing your uploads Dan hope you're ok .
Hey Dan been a while since you made a video, where you been mate.?
All good buddy just had a massive project on the go. Should be back soon.
The bigest Energie lost is in the slet its Heavy.
How about using a compound bow style mechanism for firing?
Sigo pensando igual, con ese trabajo, hubieras hecho un arma de fuego. Mucho trabajo y mismo resultado que muchos rifles de goma
Daniel try raising the limb rod closer to parallel, will give more speed
#,mking3219 and by raising an axe to it would improve its looks and functionality.... as firewood and using the metal parts as a poker. That crappy thing wouldn't shout through the crust of a rice pudding
balls going down😁
Have you thought about putting another spring around the back of the barrel and using compression to power it instead of tension?
Or even compression power added to the tension power.
Or burning it would be a better option. Imagine showing this 2x4 timber peice of crap to ya mates.. actually with these lack on skills he's probably got not mate. Which is why this wannabe RUclipsr sucks in all you non-skilled watches
Holy shit it's back! Also i am first? I feel honoured
Its Back and its much better!
Make it more powerful. make it strong enough to go deer hunting
😯😯😯😯😯😯😯
the trigger was not finished today, right? the gun itself is beautiful
Trigger need some more work for sure.
@@danielmoss2089 great, it will be perfect, the idea is great, it is different from many around the web world, congratulations
Daniel,
Great work. Great project. But could you possibly make something for those of us who do not have a machine shop or forge? Perhaps something using scrap wood and scrap metal where there would be only common hand tools and minimal, home handyman power tools needed? That would be great.
@louisaziz1235 this guy's lack of skill is bad enough now let alone making him use even more primitive equipment. He just a wannabe RUclipsr looking for praise for his crappy manky work.
This guy needs a reality check not promoting is s**ty lac in skills
A design with ballraces on the shuttle to reduce friction (shuttle being the part that moves the projectile).
I have a good idea for the cocking mechanism I was thinking a simple handle off the side to hold it by, and then some kind of cable with a leather grip to pull the bolt back. I like the beefy design
Anybody know if Dan is OK? He hasn't posted anything in six months. Just curious.
I'm alive and well just consenting on a large comission. Thanks for checking in. Hope your doing ok dude?
@@danielmoss2089 Doing well. Glad to hear your OK. Stay healthy, friend.
Thank goodness you are ok Dan. Your videos have helped me so much as a beginner and was worried you won the lotto or something and stopped blacksmithing. 🙂
You can increase the power by adding springsteel limbs (even if they're relatively short) rather than that rod you're currently using. It might even let you go back to using actual springs, as a portion of the tension that was deforming those springs can be taken up by the limbs.
Interesting idea. I don't think that's what I was trying to do but I'll keep it in mind. Thank you for the comment and idea.
@FormaxusCrucible ...Or the best thing to do with this straight wooden 2x4 plank is to use it as firewood, maybe put the tacky slapped on metal parts as a fire poker. Don't prop this unskilled wannabe RUclipsr up to justify is play school fantasy.
I think the best way to move forward is have a lever cocking system before looking into how to increase power.
I will be making a goats foot.
@Technoanima the best way forward for this wannabe RUclipsr is to quite. Even play school kids have better design flair than this unskilled guy. Dame RUclipsr just quit it man - your making a fool outta yourself dude
I sure hope you alive and well may you stay safe and my prayers and wishes are with you
Find a way to have the 'limbs' in line with the barrel so that the sliding part is not dragged against the surface beneath it.
These designs whould be much more efficient IF you weren't excelerating tens of times the mass of the projectile ammounts of iron for no good reason.
I did look into this and your quite right mass does affect the way the object moves but no how you think. Force is mass times acceleration increase either and you get more force. However it does reduce acceleration (or the potential to get to it's to its top speed in the given distance). It's the reasons cross bow bolts got so heavy and the bow arms got so big. Move more mass get crazy ass spring to shift it. Basically I need to get the wieght moving at it top speed faster. Does that make sense.
@@danielmoss2089 Crossbow bolts got so heavy, because the big lumpy steel springs they used,had a maximum return speed. Which meant it wasn't going faster than 40-50 m/sec anyway. So they made heavier bolts,which the big lumps of springs could accelerate just as fast,as light ones,but the heavy ones got more of the energy out from the stored energy in the springs. But end result was still very bad efficiency. 15 pounds of steel cranked to 1000 pounds ,accelerating a 1/4 pound bolt to 50 m/s. I can generate that kind of energy by throwing with a centrifugal sling. And I generate it in a split second, not with 30 seconds of spanning.
@@jlasud yeah that's what I'm saying you increase one side of the f=M*A and the figures go up. You don't lose anything because you increase one only if you decrease one. The heavier bolt has more energy in it regardless if you can make it move as fast as some thing lighter. I just need to get the object traveling fasted over the distance. More springs or rubber.
One reason that the projectile loses so much energy that it doesn't even come out of the barrel in a straight line is because of the angle the rubber bands are in.. when you tension it, it mechanism grinds its way back down into the barrel, and is the reason why it fired when you released the trigger. When you fire it, the mechanism gets plowed in into the "roof" of the barrel, until the front spring stops it.. you should feel this when you touch the barrel after a shot: heat.
Increasing the power is easy, just lengthen the barrel/slide and use 4 strips of TheraBand Gold on either side... equal to about 75lbs (34kg) draw weight at 36in (91.4cm)... Just remember...Longer Power Stroke/More Rubber = More Power
And for Cocking it you should look into building a Goats Foot (Crossbow Cocking Device) Just modify it to work on the spring bow
I think I said I need to make a goats foot in the video.
@@danielmoss2089 So you did ~facepalms~
Hi
I wouldn't be happy with this weapon at all yet. The trigger mechanism is life threatening !!! did I see the gun firing when you release the trigger and not when you pull it? you should also have a securing mechanism .... You need a cocking mechanism so that you can't just pull it up with a vise. The shape of the stock isn't ergonomic either, you would have been much better off copying the shape of a simple air rifle, for example. There is still a lot of work to be done with it ....
Anyone heard from Dan lately? I keep trying to contact him but no answer.....
I've been wondering that myself. I haven't been trying to contact him, just find something new. His Esty shop is no longer listed under my favorites on Esty. There hasn't been anything new on his website. I have actually thought about asking Alec Steele if he heard anything, before leaving the U.K., since he just came back to the States. I'd just like to know he is okay.
I was able to contact him. He's fine but very busy. I think he will return.
@@robphone4895 That's great. Him being fine, that is. If he is busy enough that RUclips has to fall by the wayside, so be it. I'm sure being a busy blacksmith outweighs being slow enough to make vids.
Nice build real ingenuity
I have a few ideas to improve things.
From my model aircraft days many years ago when we used surgical tube for catapult launching gliders. If I remember correctly for a 200' line we used 20' of tubing stretched out to 100' which gives a stretch ratio of 5 to 1. It looks like your spring is too thick and under stretched.
Reduce the weight of the slider this will both increase the acceleration of the slider and ball as well as reduce the impact on your buffer spring. Make the slider out of a low friction plastic like HDPE or PTFE. and the cocking arm from aluminium.
Reduce losses in the spring again from aero modelling to reduce friction losses in rubber motors we used to lubricate the rubber with talc there is always friction between the strands.
As far as I'm concerned your content has just been getting better a mix of smithing demos and tutorials with projects is the way to go.
@elanman608 this items a peice of junk made from a manky looking 2x4 timber plank. Maybe you should join him a play school to improve your crappy plane modeling and his s**ty unskilled woodworking knowledge - or lack of. No props for this wannabe RUclipsr
Hi Daniel. The acceleration imparted to the ball bearing in your device is equal to the force (from the spring) divided by the mass of what is being accelerated. (Newton's second law.) But the accelerated mass is not just the ball bearing, but also the cocking plate and the piston. To increase the acceleration, you need to reduce the mass (weight) of the cocking plate and the piston to the absolute minimum. I don't really see why you need a piston at all! Surely a simple pin would do the job.
🤝👍🙋♂️🇺🇿
How about oxy acetylene plasma lighter trigger light oil copper and lead coated ball bearing with semi automatic firing rifled barrel with electromagnetic safety catch 🤔
You are losing energy by having your springs/bands at an angle to the slide, better to have them parallel and level with the slide.
Ammo is visible coming out of barrel I think it has no power
Dan, not living in the UK like you do, I assume that you've checked to ensure that what you're making won't get you into trouble with your draconian (I think?) anti-gun laws. Regardless of that, a better rubber tube is the type of tube used to feed gas to Bunsen burners like in Chemistry labs, etc., in schools & businesses, so you ought to be able to source some of that type of tube fairly easily. It's pretty stout stuff! ;)
I want to see you hand forge a real crossbow.
Draw strength is too low 60 ft pounds
鸡肋😌
Talk too much , no action
Quit frusted.. i can produce better than this product without using that kind of mechine…😢
Ok you do that. X
Imagine if u put this.much effort into getting ur gun rights back