Sears Kenmore Elite (Oasis) Washer Disassembly & Repair of Drive Bearings
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- Опубликовано: 11 авг 2018
- This is a video that show how to replace the Washer drive shaft and drive bearings. But it also shows the complete disassembly and reassembly of the machine that would cover other part replacements. Covers Kenmore Elite and Whirlpool, Oasis models.
Had an appliance repairman look at my washing machine. He said buy a new one. I fixed it for $100 parts. Just followed your video step by step. Couldn’t have fixed it without your video. Thank you.
Awesome video, helped me so much. Would recommend this to all who is looking to save a ton of money on repairs.
Wow. You made a very extensive, detailed video. Thank you very much. I have a Kenmore Elite Oasis HE washer that needs the bearing kit replaced. Your video was so detailed that I'm sure I can get through the repair with ease. Well done. Hope your leg wasn't to badly cut.
I will order the parts and update this comment once I've completed the repair.
Excellent!!!! Your point at the 1:38 - 1:39 where the tub rises as you put the screws in... saved me a lot of frustration. Thank you.
I have a bearing press tool (used once) I am willing to send to anyone who needs it. Great video! I found zero nylon cam pieces as well, not even scraps. And could not find any replacements. I bought some 1 x 3/8 nylon spacers from the hardware store and they seem to be working fine. Getting them in place required a process I had to come up with on my own. I placed everything upside down, spacers in place resting on the lip of the inner piece. I tied a string to the bolt already inside. I ran the string through the agitator and slipped it on top of the inner piece. I then carefully pulled the bolt upwards and then the inner piece came upwards. Trying not to let the spacers fall. Once it was all the way up into the agitator I grabbed the bolt and held tight. Flip the whole thing over and pray the spacers are still in place!
I would love the tool if you still have it!
Do you still have the bearing press tool, I am in need of this
First video to explain that the 6 screws will pull the tub back up to the hub when replacing. Thank you… I spent hours trying to figure out why there was a gap between the two… wish i had seen this video first.
I had to pause after 54 minutes watching and wonder myself how in the world are there people giving thumbs down to this video so well done, so clear and so exhaustive. Thank you Sean for your time
Haha, RUclips has ruined people. They have no patience for anything over 5 minutes
I had the same set mine were that gray blue color but it didnt have the agitator the fabric dispenser was under the lid it was the best washer and dryer ever talk about performance it spins so fast the clothes were almost dry i replace the suspension rods and the water pump and i replaced the mother board on the dryer it was 140$ who can cmplain as they were gifted to me from a former employer and i was grateful
Thank you for the clear step by step. I spend a lot of time at RUclips University and this is the most clear and concise repair video I have seen to date. For less than $100.00 the washer is back up and working great!
Thanks so much!
Great video. This worked for me and the bottle jack trick to get the drum off was an awesome pointer. Everything was easy after seeing the step by step process. Took me less than 3-1/2 hours start to finish. Thank you!
Walked me right through it! Thanks bro!
Thanks. Just changed my washer' shaft and this helped a lot!
man your garage is perfectly organized...
Excellent video. I have a similar model with bad bearings. Your video and the detail that you included gives me the confidence to take this project on! Thank for taking the time to make this available.
Glad it helped!
Critical! The bottom bearing is not driven home into the seat. It sits up PROUD about 4mm. The tool sets this key dimension. If this is not set the rotor will jam into the stator. The video is great... check the rotor for free spin in the final assembly.
Thank you so much for making this detailed video. Replaced my shaft and bearings this weekend and couldn’t have done it without the help of your video. Like others the shaft was very difficult to get out. Took about two hours of alternating pushing/pulling and letting it sit with penetrating grease. Finally broke it loose with a hammer tapping on one end and my wife pulling on a pair of vice grips attached to the bottom of the shaft the other end. The tip on taking the lid off was genius. Again. Thank you. Washed clothes in relative quiet tonight. And saved me a $500 service call.
Glad it helped someone
EXTREME situation: First, thank you very much for your video it was of enormous help. For anyone with an extreme situation like mine. The basket was extremely stuck to the shaft. Even the jack method didn't work. To the point that the 2x4 dented the inner basket from so much pressure. Also, I tried using a puller and almost stripped the plastic holes. I had to take out the basket together with the shaft. Once outside, it took me 2 days, naval jelly, penetrating oil, a small sledge hammer, locking pliers, 1/2" steel rod (about 3ft. long) and a whole lot of patience to get this out without braking the plastic pieces.
Things to know:
-Hitting the shaft with a regular hammer does not work (you just deform the shaft).
-Remember that inside the inner basket hole there is a plastic sleeve. The sleeve is sandwiched between the wall of the basket hole and the shaft. So the shaft rides on the sleeve, not directly on the basket hole. This means you can rotate the shaft with the sleeves. The sleeves will still be attached to the shaft, but it will rotate in reference to the basket hole walls. If you can get the shaft/sleeve to rotate, the penetrating oil/naval jelly will be allowed in and dissolve at least part of the corrosion inside the hole/channel.
-This sleeve is not a single piece. If you could see this basket hole from the side, it would be a channel of about 3 inches in length. A 1in. half sleeve goes from top to bottom, another 1in. half sleeve goes from bottom to top, and there's a 1inch gap in between. This is important to know because that's where the corrosion is.
So, how?
I turned the basket upside down and put a lot of navy jelly on the corroded area of the shaft (where the shaft and the tub meet) and let it work for 24 hrs. Next day, I cleaned it. Afterwards, I tried hitting with a regular hammer from both sides and that didn't work.
Desperate moves: Rotated the shaft. Basket sideways on the grass to create friction. Another person holding the basket (grab on to the plastic areas, not the metal). Got the locking pliers and grabbed on to the shaft at the bottom of the basket spline grooves matching the teeth of the pliers. The pliers became a lever to rotate the shaft. I didn't want to hit the pliers directly, so I got a 2x4 and put it on top of the plier handles, then hit the 2x4 with a sledge hammer with a quick jerking motion. The shaft began to rotate. Kept hitting the 2x4 to rotate the pliers/shaft. I would clean and then turn the tub upside down put more naval jelly, let sit, hit and turn again etc. To the point where I could rotate it without having to hit the pliers. I thought of using a big pipe to fit the plier handles inside of the diameter of the pipe and hitting the pipe. I guess that might work too.
Set the basket sideways again on the grass to create friction, took the sledge hammer and hit the shaft hard from the outside toward the inside of the basket (I know this was the wrong way, but I didn't have a small enough hammer to fit it inside the tub to hit from the inside out). The shaft moved about a quarter inch. I turned the basket upside down, cleaned the corroded area again and saturated it again with naval jelly and let it work for about 1 hr. Turned the basket upright, I could see the shaft was no longer flushed with the surface. It was now protruding. I saturated that with naval jelly. Let it work for 1hr. Turned the tub upside down, cleaned and put more naval jelly on the shaft. I took the pliers and turned again, working the jelly into the hole etc. I could not hear any grinding anymore and the jelly was becoming brown instead of pink.
Final hit: set the tub upright on the steps to my back yard. I had to use some 2x4s to increase the height of the step so that when I hit the shaft from the top down, there would be enough space for the shaft to move down without hitting the concrete. Used a long 1/2" steel rod I had and used the sledge hammer to hit that shaft until it was out. The sleeves are meant to stay in the hole.
In the gap between the plastic sleeves, was a ton of rust powder. I checked the shaft and the diameter of the shaft was significantly thinner in exactly that same area.
This was an extreme situation, I don’t figure it happens a lot, but I do hope this is of help to anyone in a similar situation to mine.
Thanks for the details! Sounds like quite the struggle. Hopefully mine will be easier ;).
Excellent instruction! Thank you!
This video helped me immensely - not to replace the drive bearing, but to decide to try and fix my unbalanced load issue by replacing the suspension rods. I found another video that showed how to do it, and it seems to have worked, at least after two loads. Thanks!
srbroadwater so u have the part number for suspension kit?
Great video. You cover a lot of things about the washer. The only one thing you lacked of was a helping hand.. Yeah, sometimes I wish I had a third hand myself.
Sean , great Video sir , everything you need to know to get the job done . to anyone that reads the comments and follows these informational video's . Save yourself lots of heartache , when buying the bearings .. Get the installation tool also !!
Thanks for going through the process of replacing the seal and bearing! Saved me a lot of time and a service call. Great job!
Had to do this a few years ago. Not a very hard fix, but a time-consuming one.
Awesome video. My methods were a little bit different in some areas. Mainly when it came to getting out the old shaft. This video was very helpful
Thanks for your time saving tips. Very detailed instructions.
Thanks so much for supplying this video! I changed the drive on my washer and your instructions worked Great!
Glad it helped!
Thanks Man you made my day!! Thank you for showing us how to clean and replace the bearings. I needed this video so much!
Thanks, couldn’t have done it with out you, great step by step instructions to repair my washer
Beautiful step by step video on replacing bearing and seals on a Kenmore Oasis washer. Having the same type of sounds and codes during the final spin of my rinse cycle. Will be repaing myself after watching your most valuable teaching. It will be saving me a lot of money. Thanks a million for all your time and patience you put out to teach us.
Extremely well done video! Thanks for posting this, saved me a ton of work and frustration!!
Totally agree!! Yep, I'm a woman and I am fixing my washer! HAHAHA!! Seriously, this man has helped me so much! Ordering my bearing replacement kit today! Easy Peasy!
This video is awesome! You were my companion throughout my entire repair. I ran into an additional problem when the shaft cracked the plastic tub when it launched out. I would recommend padding the inside with towels to prevent that. A plastic welder and some silicone fixed it. You answered all my questions as we went through the repairs. Very well explained.
How to put the dryer belt back right?
🤩
How to put the dryer back ?
@@kheangkry7575 This video is about repairing the washing machine. You will have to look elsewhere for repairing the dryer.
My top bearing broke off a part is still in the washer
How do I get it out i
Thank you!!!! Very easy video to watch !!! Great job my friend!!!!
Amazing video.. thanks a ton for sharing the technical wisdom..
So amazingly helpful and detailed thank god for this vid
Absolutely fantastic and informative video. Helped me immensely. Make sure you take off the sump plate. I found loose change inside. Very important information, make sure you have plenty of room, patience, proper tools and WEAR GLOVES! Unit is now quiet but unfortunately I waited to long and the bearing took out stater motor. (burning and smelling). Ordered used replacement on eBay. $55. I’m NOT giving up! Stay tuned.....
Absolutely pop
I like the idea of removing the top. Best idea ever.
Wow! This is so clear and details video. Excellent job! 😎😎 Thank you so much!
Hope it helps. I got lucky, but sometimes it is too corroded to save.
Hey there thanks for the awesome video, it was on point.....my washer is new again
Thanks so much for this video! Saved me a ton of time, grief, and probably a broken washer!
I know this video is 4 years old but do you remember how old it was when you made this? I have almost the same one (no agitator on mine) that was here when I moved in 5 years ago. Even though I run bleach on occasion through it, I started to notice an odor so I disassembled it to deep clean all the parts and crevices. The wall of the drum (or outside wall of the basket as you call it) is caked in mildew/mold which is so gross. Yours looks so clean so I’m trying to determine if this was just old and overused already when I bought the house or if the last 5 years of hard water caused this. I would always keep my washer lid open after a cycle to prevent mildew. I suppose it didn’t matter 😢
Thank you man. I did appreciate it.
Thanks for the video my man. Saved me time, headaches and money!
Dude! Thank you so much for this! You're a lifesaver. I'd like to buy you a coffee or some beer.
I have water trapped in the base of my spin drum. Is this normal? Also, the bearing and shaft replacement went well, great instructions and video.
When I pulled out my washer tub / drum it sounds like there is water in the top or bottom plastic parts. Should there be any water there? The drum is on the ground. Thank you for your video.
I watched your whole video! I wonder if the fabric softener buildup contributes to the bearings wearing out cause of the extra stress. I saw 2 other videos first I like that you took off the top. I would try to put the bearings in without buying the tool by heating the outside and freezing the bearings to make it easier when using a suitable socket. Saves 60 dollar one time use only tool. Your very clean I lie that and also your safety tips are important. Thanks. Im going to remove a waher basket to use as a fire pit they really work grat if its all metal.
What did you clean the stator with ( to remove grease?)
Thanks for this vid. My kenmore elite oasis washer is spinning but it's spinning very slowly (about 10% of the speed it should be spinning). I did a quick visual inspection of the main things like making sure nothing is clogged and that it's draining properly. Is it likely that my drive bearings need to be replaced like this video? You said it's a very common issue, right? And where do I buy the part?
i watched the first half of your video to get a little refresher course, it's been a long time sine i've had to work on mine then about 4 hours later with my washer on its side i suddenly had a "wait what" moment when it dawn on me that your washer has a full size center agitator, i guess the earlier models like mine didn't have an agitator which is it's biggest flaw, agitators also work as separator and washer without them tend to tie cloths into knots. i need to find a parts machine.......
Great video. my big question is that I have taken apart the agitator assembly and gotten down to the plastic covering with 6 screws. Took that off and beneath it is the other plastic gear that you discover in video at 33:36 in. BUT, I can NOT remove this piece. Seems it is stuck in the UP position and will not retract, and I suppose that is the reason it is not able to agitate. So I'm stuck, like the plastic gear! So, two things....first, does your machine have those dog agits, and if so, where are they, as mine does not, and two..... how to get that plastic gear off and even if I do, what is the next step to fix the OL code, which is my main issue.... Just a deep cleaning of every part I can get to?
Very very helpful bro
Glad it helped!
I have a Kenmore Elite Washer that had a Sd Code, so we replaced the hub agitator. This fixed the problem for about a month. Now, the code is back and the washer will not function properly. I ran the diagnostic test and it will not process past the C8. Any suggestions?
I changed my balance rods several years ago in about 20 mins including the cussin'. parts about $60-70 IIRC.
Now I got a buzzing noise at C7 in the testing mode, which might mean the pump is clogged or broken - still checking it out...
Edit: A tiny drill bit I had put in a breast pocket of a work shirt got caught in the pump. 2 hours, lots of cussin'.
Wow such an amazing detailed to the T video my washer elite just got that same issue with bearing now I need to know where to get the parts kit and tool please if anyone can help it would very much so appreciated
Muy bueno
please do a video on how to organize a toolbox like yours!
First thanks for the great step by step video. When I put the rotor back on the stator and rotated the rotor it spins for few rotations and then stops due to the magnetic effect between the rotor and stator - is that normal? In your video you mentioned that there should not be any binding ... I wanted to know if I was tightening the bolt too tightly or something... any help appreciated. Thanks!
As long as there is no binding you should be good. It won't keep spinning because as you said the magnetism stops it.
Yes - just wanted to update that even thought there was the magnetic effect between the rotor and stator when I was putting it together it did not matter when the washer was on ... we used the washer for atleast 10 loads now and its working great. Again a big THANKS for making this step by step video.
skip the bearing press kit and use the bad bearing to press the new one in. Change one bearing a time with a simple lag bolt and large washers.
Excellent Video...!!
Great detail and explanatory...!
I fixed one washer like yours...It was Kenmore Washer Elite Series 700, with the flat short agitator, (the water saver ones) model. My wife did not like it...Very little water on the tub. And I am thinking if I buy the main control panel and the agitator assembly, it will be like yours...(I think!) it is not expensive to turn the "water saver" model into the one that you have...!
Will you be able to give me your model number so I can look and purchase the main control board and the agitator assemble and convert this water saver flat "pulsator" as it is called, into a full functional (water to top and/or medium tub) washer....
Thanks!
Hi Sean, very informative video, thank you. May I ask you a question about the 4" sleeve in the kit. When the shaft is inserted into the shiney 4 inch sleeve, as its being assembled, Is the 4 inch sleeve supposed to reach and touch the bottom of the shiney insert anchored at the middle of the shaft. Or should it be approximately 1/4" away. Mine stays 1/4" away from middle insert, but the washer makes lots of grinding noise only when the wash load starts.
PS: Maytag Bravos washer.
Thank you
There should not be any space. From the top (inside the drum), make sure the bearing is fully seated, Then with shaft inserted, go under drum. Then you slide on the sleeve, the thrust washer, the bearing and press in with the tool. What happens is the sleeve takes up the gap between the 2 bearings (Upper and Lower). When you tighten the nut the sleeve should be sandwiched between the upper and lower bearings with no gap.
@@seanstraindepot what's is the name for the litle parts is broke i can't find
Washer Agitator Cam Roller
www.searspartsdirect.com/product/383e09icug-0026-110/id-8558884
You can buy the bearing kit off of Amazon for about $20 they work great I've installed several of them the tool itself is about $40 unless you have strong mechanical abilities you won't be able to do this
Looks like at any place that you buy this kit, the components are made in China..What a waste!
The major fail on this kind of kit (installed in a washer) is the main bar is corroded in about four to five
years, as well as the bearings, who make the main important element on this kit. Chinese metals are not good, (most of them) cheap, and not good....
The main seal is also made in China...cheap rubber....also...
Thank you for this video!!!! It helped a lot because I could not get the tub out. finally got it out however now the rotor is stuck on. I loosen the screw but it does not wiggle at all. backed the screw completely out and still stuck on. As far as i can tell there is nothing else holding it on right? any help would be great
Finally got it off, took about 30min. finally used a vice grip to grab the plastic while i pushed on the bottom and pulled it off.
0
ty4sharing..nice job about to get busy..lol
My Samsung washing mashine has a broken spider arm and i want to fix it, but I need to know if all Samsing washing machines have the same size spider arm, bolts, tub seal, and bearing? My samsung washing machine Model # is WF218ANS/XAC 01. Thank you for the video!
No, they are not the same.
Dooooooooope... thanks man🦍🦍🦍
Will a magnet actually bypass the lid lock
That’s mine and plus the lid won’t open and it’s got clothes in it. How do I get the lid open?
Do you have a link to where you purchased the suspension rods and ball joints? Having trouble finding them online
searspartsdirect.com Then just search on your model.
Sean's Trains, Cars and Other Stuff Channel thank you very much!
Sean.. My was really stuck. I had to really hammer the shaft out.. In the process the top bearing actually broke. The house of the top bearing is still stuck. The inner parts of the bearing came flying out. I been trying to remove the top bearing for the past 3 days.. Off and on.. What do you suggest I do to remove it.. I used wd-40.. I used penetrating fluid. I tried hammer with flat screw on the side.. use more fluid.. Today i tried heating it up with liter.. Which i don't think it work to really heat it up. Should i buy a torch? Drill? I don't want to damage the tub..
Wow yours must have been really leaking into the bearing. Not sure what you can do. The tub is plastic so a torch would probably melt it. It may need a new tub. Yours may not be worth fixing.
Where did you get the kit with the bearing setting tool? I called Sears and was about to order the bearing kit with the shaft, but after looking at it, it does not have the bearing setting tool. Can you tell me how and where you found yours? I cannot replace the bearings on my washer until I get the tool, thank you
I got it on the Sears Part Direct website. It is still listed but when I bought it it was 77.00, now its 194.00 Here it is. Part # w10447783 I could sell you mine for 50.00 if you want it. I won't need it anymore. www.searspartsdirect.com/product/211zt1s3bx-0026-110/id-w10447783
@@seanstraindepot Oh gosh, I found it online, actually Amazon had the entire kit with the setting tool. I must say I watched your entire RUclips on the
same washer I have the bearings going out. I thank you for responding and thank you for posting every detail and tip. Thank you again for responding.
Do you have a part number for the electronic control board you replaced and a place to buy one? Thanks!
searspartdirect.com or appliancepros.com
Everything was working great, until I seated the seal. It was very hard to get in, and then I couldn't spin the shaft once it was. I used the o-ring lube that came with the kit on the inside of the seal, and the rubber cement on the outside bottom groove. But, still almost impossible to turn the shaft. Can turn if I grab the rotor from the bottom of the machine, but I doubt the motor torque would be enough to make it spin as it should. Any suggestions?
Did you ever figure out how to fix this issue?
How do you replace the lid lock
How did you get the clear hose to fit back on the tub
If its a little stiff just heat it up with a hair dryer to make is softer and slip on easier.
The video is a great tutorial, it just didn't work for me. I tried to replace the bearings in my Kenmore Elite washer, following the video step by step. I had bought the bearing kit made sure i had the tools, washed all my family's clothes before starting the project and then the next say the project started. The lower bearing popped out without trouble, the upper bearing shattered after the second hit. The outer race was frozen in the bearing seat. It was not coming out, i soaked it in PB Blaster, chiseled, hammered, pryed, used a cutoff wheel and that thing would not budge. Pricing out a new tub, it was just as cheap to buy a new washer, which is what i did.
Where do I find the little agitator pieces? Or will the regular agitator dogs work?
Not sure which pieces you mean but on searspartsdirect.com will have any available parts.
The nylon rollers that makes it lock and not spin all the way. They are different than regular agitator dogs and I cant find them anywhere.....
just a question , if the direct drive motor drives a single shaft ,, how does the washer shift between driving the agitator (wash) and driving the drum (spin) ?
The motor just drives the shaft. But the shaft is fixed to the drum and attached to the agitator. So the motor reverses direction on agitation. The little plastic cams inside the agitator is what makes it look like it is reversing (its really the drum). But the cams lock in one direction, so it drives the agitator one way, the drum reverses, but cams lock agitator, so it looks like it is going back and forth but it is really the drum.
The agitator is fixed to the drive shaft at all times, but the spin basket is free to move independently when lifted upwards . Around 1:38:50 in the video he explains a bit. When the spin basket is lifted upwards (which it does when the tub is filled with water, causing the basket to float), it is unlocked from the shaft. The agitator then spins back and forth while the basket mostly stays in place.
@@technicallyreal Understood , never heard of a system where the tub being filled lifts and disengages the basket , I assume the when the wash drum is empty the spin basket' must have a spline clutch that locks the two together so the rotor of the motor direct drives the spin basket when the basket is not lifted by floating up when the drum is filled with water ..
ironically what is bad about these kenmore's is what makes them a good to get if you have any diy repair abilities. first off, new they were really expensive like over $1k back then and they aren't like washers of old where your first repair might come 15 years later. with these machines having the tube bearings lasting 10 years is the exception not the rule, i've heard of them starting to fail after just 3 years with sears charging about $500 to do the replacement repair. when i got my oasis it was about 6 years old and i paid $25 for it from the thrift store, i found out that it needed bearings again for the second time and the owners refused to pay another $500 for the repair, a repair that i did for $40 in a couple hours, actually it was about $55, 40 for the bearing kit off ebay and 12-15 dollars to make the special tool out of a piece of all-thread, a piece of pvc, a couple washers & nuts and about 12 inches of steel rod. Because of the high failure rate and expensive repair cost people tend to replace them rather than do another expensive repair. next time you go to the landfill look in their appliance recycling section, i be there will be at least one of these machine there and probably will cosmetically look in better shape then all the other washers there.......
I keep getting a SD error on my Kenmore 700 HE Oasis. It agitates but won't spin. I let the machine self clean and I just replaced the rotary sensor. Still won't spin! Could it be the stator that needs to be replaced? Any HELP would be appreciated
On spin, it just jerks left a couple of inches and then jerks right a couple of inches. Won't spin!!!
Mine freezes up during a wash cycle I have to turn off reset it might work the next time might not reasons why???
Do u remember the part number for suspension kit?
Check here: www.searspartsdirect.com/model/4euvye8m2v-000583/kenmore-elite-11028032701-washer-parts
Make sure you have the correct model number before ordering.
How do you do a reset on this machine?
Leaving this comment to be able to come back!!😅
Hello: I have this weird love affair with my washing machine. I think I bought my Kenmore Elite (Oasis) in 2006? Back when Orchard Supply was selling these machines. A couple of weeks ago, I had a repair person look at the machine because I was getting the UL code. I have never had the control board replaced. The repair person said it's time and I have a leak coming from the hose under the bleach cup holder. Both parts are no longer available and I don[t want to part ways with my washer. Do you have any recommendations ?
If www.searspartsdirect.com or www.appliancepartspros.com do not have the parts, then it is time to replace the machine as there are no other options.
How much was the original cost of the dryer?
Hi, I just replaced the shaft and bearings on a Kenmore Elite Oasis HE Washer (Model 11027062604) and noticed that there is some resistance between the stator / stator cover when I rotate the stator cover (plastic cover with magnets around it). There is no resistance when the stator is not attached to shaft. There is no actual rubbing noise and the resistance is more pronounced as I start rotating faster - it almost feels like a magnetic resistance when rotated over a certain speed (washer is not plugged in). Is this normal? Did anyone else experience similar magnetic resistance when you attached and rotated the motor cover? Thanks.
Just did mine today and I have the same exact resistance. Was this normal? Have you had any issue's? How long does it take for the glue to dry before I can use the machine?
@@dadof2gr8kids143 Yes, it was definitely just electromagnetic resistance in my case and everything worked great after I put it all back together. I am assuming that when I was slowly rotating the shaft with motor / stator cover on, it was creating some sort of electrical feedback loop with capacitors on the circuit board (even though the machine wasn't plugged in), which in turn were bleeding back energy into the stator and causing intermittent electromagnetic resistance. In order to test if this theory applies to your model before committing to applying the sealant, I would suggest removing both wiring harnesses from the motor, re-attach the motor cover, bolt tightly and then see if you are still getting any kind of resistance - if you are not, then you know that it is indeed an electromagnetic feedback loop. Re-attach the wiring harnesses, re-assemble and you should be good. On a side note, I asked if anyone else was experiencing this magnetic feedback on the Amazon page listing for the stator motor coil replacement and almost everyone said that they experienced no resistance - It seems that this model of stator coil is used in lots of different washing machine models, and interacts differently depending on the specific model circuit board in the machine. As for the sealant, I put on a pretty good amount around the outer bearing and tub (a bit more than seen in install demo videos), so I waited a day and a half to make sure it was completely solid as it was still slightly soft after 24 hours. Good luck with your repair. It ended up being a pretty easy repair despite the resistance setback.
where did you get the parts from?
Searspartsdirect.com or Appliancepartspros.com
Were can you buy the tool, you need!?
searspartsdirect.com
Garcias
You still have these machines?
Yup, working great
Where you buy the tool from and how much
searspartsdirect.com
@@seanstraindepot I did not receive that tool, do I need to rent it? What's it called ? Is it possible to do this without it? Thanks
1:26:00 grease/adhesive
Do you still have these?
The washer & dryer? Yes - 16 years and still going.
@@seanstraindepot They last forever. Rare in any manufactured product anymore. Mine are nearly 20 - and the only problems I have with the washer are a little rust and the fabric softener not dispensing.
That part spin correct
I just started to watch the video that you're doing and I can tell you that the bearings is gone brother.
Would this cause the drum to stick?
If you mean freeze up or not move, then this could be one cause yes. If it does not move at all the likely something with the motor or computer board. Can you manually spin it? It is hard to know without taking it apart.
@@seanstraindepot yes we can manually spin it, with a little Force and it sounds like it's thumping...
Hard to tell without seeing it, but if you took motor off the bottom and it was still thumping, then likely the bearing has failed. Usually it will be a grinding/Whirring noise, so if it completely failed it could have damaged drum sleeve, which means its not worth to fix.
@@seanstraindepot ok, that's good to know. Thank you so much!
Is dad a new washing machine
I can’t get the basket out as it’s to rusted, tried pouring coke on it, and putting some oil on it but still won’t budge.
Yeah, its the shaft, not the basket sleeve as that is plastic. Do a search on you tube , there are videos of guys using a 2x4 under the rim of the tub and then a car scissor jack between that and top of the shaft to act as a sort of puller to force it past the rust line.
@Sean's Trains, Cars and Other Stuff Channel thanks
My washing machine looks exactly like that but I can't get it to stop saying F on the screen and it sounds like there's tons of water when I spin it with my hands I really don't know what to do pls help Bc it won't spin on its own it only fills up with water and then F shows up on the screen just F no numbers help pls 🥺
There should be a number after the F to tell you what's wrong. You then lookup the code.
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