I was quoted $700 to do this job and your video helped out alot to get this job done! For anyone that plan on doing this job, please get a FWD hub puller with or without slide hammer, get a bearing press kit, and bearing separator! Saves so much time and it makes the job easier. The brakes will be a pain in the ass to put together the first time but afterwards it's all worth it. My car feels completly different so I'm guessing my wheel bearing has been bad for awhile. Thank You!
Hey question, so I know this a old vid but hoping you could help. I replaced the wheel bearing hub and cv axle in the rear. Once done with install and now I have abs light and stays on. I made sure the magnetic strip went inward and well would you know why the abs stays on? Thanks
Great tutorial! A hot tip for removing the inner race (without a puller tool) from the hub once you pull the hub off: Carefully cut a slit into the inner race with a cutoff wheel, the cut doesn't have to go all the way through. Smack the cut with a hammer/chisel, and it should crack the inner race all the way through. You'll then be able to slip the inner race off the hub. I've been putting this job off for a while--my pre-LCI E90 has an ABS, DTC, and DSC light; the magnetic pickup in the left rear bearing seems to have worn away, giving erratic speed sensor readings. Cheers!
Good tip, but very bold to assume the average person could do that without causing further damage. The proper tool is very cheap, under $40 and avoids any chance of error or injury. The cut off tool may even cost more if someone doesn't already have one. Tips are always appreciated round here, but I like to encourage the proper use of tools for the job🫡
Great job and thanks so much for this awesome video. Just replaced the wheel bearing on my E90 and watching this helped me a lot. The only thing I add is to make sure to remove the ABS / speed sensor before pressing out the bearing. Mine got damaged and had to replace it. Thanks again.
Awesome video, I just did my 335d rear bearings and that press from Oreillys made easy work removing and replacing the bearing. I was able to loosen the hub nut before raising the vehicle by taking the center cap out of the wheel and using a breaker bar with the proper 36mm 12pt socket. So if you’re doing this by yourself with no one to hold the brake, you might want to try it that way.
Thanks man! Glad it was helpful, having the right tools makes all the difference for sure! And you are 100% right on breaking the axle nut free BEFORE lifting it up. I meant to do that, forgot about it, and luckily had my brother close by to hold the brakes😬 But that is good advice!👏🏼
@@vp5 it’s pretty easy. You have two reverse torx bolts close to the exhaust tips, then two nuts close to the pumpkin. Put a jack underneath it and lower it enough to get your work done.
Just did this job this morning/afternoon. I cannot overstate just how difficult it will be to get the axle stub out of the hub without the right tools/alot of heat/penetrating fluid. Broke a h/f 3 jaw puller doing it, ended up having use a map gas torch and torched the shit out of the hub and it still wasn't budging...prolly hammered/torched it/sprayed it down with penetrating fluid for about 30 minutes before it finally started to move and we got it out.
Congrats on finishing! This job can be such a pain in the ASS! It doesn't seem like it in the video, but we actually broke 2 rental tools and a breaker bar trying to pop it free. Same thing in the end we used a bunch of heat, PB Blaster, and a giant breaker bar with the jack handle on it. I still couldn't break it free so my brother that weighs like 260lbs came and put some weight on it and it finally broke free. Meanwhile the other side popped out with just our finger pushing it in😅 I can't even count how many comments or messages I've had of people trying this job and trying to take shortcuts without the right tools. Never gonna work! Happy the video helped you, thank you for sharing your story✌🏽
@@Mechani_Cole yeah man we went the "hammer the shit out of it" method after the hub puller broke and put the old axle nut a few threads down on the axle and a 17mm socket in there and just smashed away with a 5lb hammer and that's what got it, lots of heat, lots of penetrating fluid and lots of hammering. The axle nut keeps the socket in place so you don't have to worry about it slipping off while hammering. After that everything went really easy, it was the left side so we popped the exhaust off the hangers to get the axle out of the way.
@@JeeperZJ sounds about right. We tried the 5lb sledge method and it was still stuck. It spent literal days soaking in PB Blaster😅 Some one tried getting the bearings out and in without the tool too, good comedy😅
@@Mechani_Cole yeah I can see why you ended up having to replace the axle. We used a file to clean up the threads on it after we pulled it off the car and had no issues with putting the new axle nut on it. Worth a mention that I had to heat the nut up until it was glowing red and spray penetrating fluid before it came off as well. Spent at least an hour and a half between getting the nut off (used a Milwaukee m18 fuel) and freeing the axle stub from the wheel hub.
Hello mate. Appreciated your video and very straightforward. However, my new bearing has some play in it right from the box... some said that it's normal snd it won't move at all once i tighten the axle nut. You got any ideas? Thanks!
MAKE SURE TO REMOVE WHEEL SPEED SENSOR! Thanks for the video helped a lot but a good preventable problem is to remove this sensor I’m not sure if I burned it with the torch or if the bearing remover damaged it Orileys and autozone have these sensors for around $80-100 Fcp euro has oe for about $40 for both sides
Outstanding tutorial! I need to do this on my car very soon. I found the Harbor Freight bearing puller/press, but could you please share details about the other tools? The links aren’t showing in the description. Thank you 🙏
Hey James, thanks for your comment, very much appreciated🙏 For the rental tool, of the links are not working, try searching the part number that is listed next to each item in the description. They are rentals from Oriellys, you can call and give them the part number and they can look it up for you. Try clicking the links too, I just checked on the computer and the links should be good to go🤙🏼
I did this recently on my 530i e60, it's similar to the e90. My car was on the jackstand for 3 days because we couldn't get the cv joint axle back in place... we did everything to get it in there so the last solution was to freeze the whole damn axle over the night and it worked! So if you have problem with your cv axle, don't be like me an bang the shit out of it freeze it over the night. Now i have to buy a new cv joint axle.... 😆
It's called "Triple Square", don't try to use torx on it or it will strip out. Here is an affordable option that arrives quickly - amzn.to/3T00jLu I use this set and they work great, good quality. Hope that helps🫡
is it possible to press the new bearing on a new hub beforehand then put the whole assembly in ? Or is it necessary to put the new bearing in first then the hub ? thanks for the video 🙌👌
No, you have to press the bearing in the housing first. Then press the hub in after. However having it bolted up is helpful when wrenching the bearing out with the tool. It's holds everything in place.
@anon anon the reason you have to install the bearing first is because you have to install the snap ring to secure the bearing in. It will be very challenging to do with the hub on and having everything aligned correctly.
Just start it by hand, then use a large torque wrench to tighten to about 175ft lbs. If no torque wrench, use a breaker bar and put the jack handle over it for leverage. Don't use a ratchet.
@@Mechani_Cole okay thanks! Another question.. when separating the hub from the bearing cant i just let the axle still be inside and use a 3 armed pulley and push onto the axle to make it pop out? Or would that hurt the axle? Instead of using that hammer tool or pushing thru the hub bolt holes onto the back
Also, if you need a large torque wrench, your local auto parts store should rent them out for free. You get the money back once you bring the tool back, so its pretty cool
Good question, it wouldn't matter if you were able to get the hub off that way. You would still need the special tool to pull the bearing out from inside the knuckle, and also to press the bearing back in. There isn't many, if any, shortcuts here on this job. This is pretty much the quickest way.
@@drivingbro the description of the video has all the helpful links at the best price as well. Some people buy the tool, then just return it after since Amazon rarely see's their returns and accept everything
Did you jack up the knuckle to pull out the axle from the bearing, like you did when inserting the axle in the bearing? You didn’t show how you removed the axle spline out of the bearing.
I don't think so. I think I pulled it out once I unbolted the other side from the diff. I lowered that side first. Then slide the Axle out of the bearing
@@Mechani_Cole I see. I replaced my rear driver side bearing a year ago and it’s going bad now. I’m going to replace it this weekend but I don’t want to remove the suspension again. I’m hoping I can slide out the spline without taking apart the suspension. As long as I disconnect it from the differential first, I should be able to slide it out, without dropping the exhaust?
Yes, will he very similar with the axle running through it like this. Easier on the front because you can turn the wheel to get more access. Don't forget to remove the ABS sensor first, easy to break them if they are forgotten. Best of luck!
am i wrong or did you put your new bearing in backwards? the orange facing side on the old one came out facing inwards and the new one you put in facing outwards. ?
The bearing puller set you recommended has a sleeve size of "3"O.D. x 2.5"Long." The bearing on my 325i has a 2.95" diameter. The sleeve supplied with this set should not work. Did you have to file or grind the sleeve to make it work?
No, ended up working perfect. Perhaps the sleeve size is rounded up on the listing. Kind of like a 2×4. There is multiple sleeves as well in different sizes.
Since I was replacing the axle as well, I put the hub puller on and left the axle in, then I used the axle to push off of with the hub puller. Sometimes you can smack them out with a hammer as well.
I cant put my cv axle back in my differential case. Threads look ok. Removed retaining clip ring just to make sure its not the one that caused resistance but same. I have 1.5 cm gap between diff and cup of CV axle inner end. Hammering doesnt do anything. What the hell is wrong
You may have to just slam it in there. If you have a camera you could look inside to see if it's being stopped by anything. Might be able to use your phone to see inside as well
@@Mechani_Cole i tried hammering whole cv axle but didnt move an inch. I will try to reassembly whole axle for diff flange end and try to put it on its own (its only short so will be easier to Hammer in). Hope my diff internals are ok 🤢🤮
Hammering an axle usually won't do much. To much of the blow is absorbed by the joints in the Axle. Typically just grab them and slam them in by the shaft is what I've had to do
Thank you! To the best of my knowledge and memory, on this 325i the bearing was exactly the same on both sides. I found no difference so it shouldn't matter. If there is a ring or something different, that side usually goes in first. Thanks for watching🤙🏼
@@Mechani_Cole Ok thanks for coming back appreciate your comment! On the e46 I’ve read that the side of the bearing with the encoder has to go in first but currently i can’t tell which side it is on my new bearing kit. Trying to figure it all out before i attempt the repair
@@Mechani_Cole yours has the abs rings on the driveshafts. Later models read directly on the bearing so orientation may be important. SKF VKBA 6632 is different on each side
@@Mechani_Cole mine is a e9x (e91) lci. Not sure when the change happened. Maybe at the lci point. About to start my bearings today. Had to wait for the puller kit. Bought one on amazon after watching your video
Did you use a bigger diameter circle in the back of the bearing to press the bearing In and then a smaller diameter circle through the back of the bearing to fit the inner race to press the hub in? I used a larger diameter one for both and think I messed up the bearing... twice, gonna give it another shot after I order more bearings :(
The diameter would NOT change in the back when you are pushing the hub on. Leave the one on the back the larger one. When pressing the hub in, it shouldn't matter as much what that sized diameter is. As long as it pushes the hub in evenly. Keep in mind, you want to have the diameter of the to as close to the edge of the bearing as possible. If you press with a small diameter, it will ruin the inside of the bearing. You want the tool, touching the edges of the bearing, without touching the hub.
This Is Coleman thanks! So just to be clear, larger diameter as close to the edge of the bearing touching the bearing and not touching on the hole where the bearing goes into right? Because my 335i has a lip before where it stops the bearing so I was using a circle bigger than the hole without it touching the bearing, mayne that was my mistake🤔
@@islandboi10000 sounds right. Also, when pushing your bearing in, you can use the old bearing and stack it on the new one. This way, it is perfectly the exact diameter. This will get is past the lip as well and seat the bearing all the way in the hole. When pressing the bearing back in, make sure the back plate is BIGGER than the hole so it has something to pull on. One more tip! Freeze your bearings in the freezer overnight or for 6 hours. Then take a torch and heat up the hole. Stick the frozen bearing inside the hot hole and it will go almost all the way in. Be fast and wear gloves, then finish with press. When the hole is heated up, it expands. When the bearing is frozen, it shrinks. Making it very easy to stick in. Don't feel bad, I ruined the other side by stripping a bolt. Check out the "I broke my gf bmw" video. It shows me doing the whole install in a time lapse. Lets just say, its easier after you mess it up once🤣
This Is Coleman lol we all mess up now and again! After I broke the second bearing I was like I’m gonna sell this car but I’m gonna be a soldier and try again! Thanks for all the help, your video was the best, only thing I wasn’t too sure of was the diameters of the circles but that’s it, thanks again Coleman!
Yes, good question! This axle was actually so seized that it broke 2 different tools. We kept the rotor and the brake pad on so that we could push the brakes at the same time while breaking the axle free. This axle was very stubborn and extremely stuck, it took many hours hence my excitement at the time. The other axle popped right out with no tool, this axle however, decided it was going to be so stuck that it broke tools😅 Thanks for watching🤟🏼
Awesome video man. This encouraged me to finally do mine on my day off on Friday. I've been putting it off for far too long. Anyone know if I should only need the 369.00 tool? I just replaced that axle last fall so it shouldn't be siezed. Can I use the $369 tool to remove the hub as well or do I need another tool to take the hub off to get to the bearing?
Thanks man, hope you get it fixed with no issues. That rental tool is needed, they refund the money once you return it. Or you can check the link in the description, there is a full kit for $69. Can always buy it, use it and just return it😅 You also need the hub puller, its about $30 to rent. Also a 3lb hammer may help too. Lastly, you will need the bearing separator tool to remove the bearing race from the hub. They have these at harbor freight. I show how to use that in the middle of the video. Best of luck, let me know if you have any other questions🤙🏼
I'm definitely missing something, but how did you use the breaker bar when pulling the hub without the wheels spinning. My xDrive in gear will still allow the wheels to spin alone, though can't say I understand how that happens. Right now the hub just turns and can't pull it with the three lugnut tool.
See how the brake rotor and the brakes are still hooked up? I left them connected so we could push the brake down or use the emergency brake to lock up the wheel up from spinning. This axle was so seized it actually broke 2 different tools. Took about 4-6 hours to get the axle free. Thats why I celebrate and flip it the bird in the video, it wasn't easy. But yeah, we used the brakes to lock up the wheel from spinning when removing it. Had to use a breaker bar with a jack handle on it to get it free in the end. Thanks for watching and good question!
Hey, thanks for watching and commenting! I listed all the tools used in this video in the description. Not sure what one you are referring too. Click on some of the links and see if you find what it is, happy to help is anymore questions😁
@@Isa1ahL33 Ah I see, this is a Bearing Separator. Here is a link to the one I used amzn.to/2MXX5Kq . Free overnight shipping I believe, either way a great tool to have. They have a version at harbor Freight as well if easier for you.
The axle you used is repackaged at a lot of retailers...is it still holding up?..and did you use the bolts that come with, or reuse the original?..and I see in most pics that the axle nut is different, depending whether right/left side(6point/12point)...was this the case w/you?
Axle held up fine for over a year later. I used the original bolts, I didn't like the bolts that came with. I had the 12 point axle nut, just need the 12 point socket instead. Good questions🤙🏼
@@Mechani_Cole that's good to hear, that it's holding up...the same axles are packaged trakmotive on rockauto...but the bolts and one nut are different...I prefer the 12point bcuz that's like the original, so I emailed them about that 6point(still waiting for a reply)...and yeah, the included bolts look sketchy...forgot to ask, did you have to use grease at all?..or was it good to go...appreciate it
Yeah, a lot of these "parts" companies all sell the same stuff with different logos now days. 12 point all the way, the 6 strip to easy. No grease was needed, however I did put loctite on all the threads on those bolts going into the diff to be safe. To torque them, I put 2 wheel lugs in and put a pry bar between them for leverage so they didn't move but I could still rotate them in between.
Only reason I avoid that is to avoid any threads being potentially stripped. You are right, you can do that as an option though. Thanks for your comment🤙🏼
No, you don't need a new axle. I needed one here because I made the mistake of hammering the front of the axle and messed up the threads. The axle was actually so stuck it broke 4 different rental tools and took several hours to break free. This video skipped a lot of that struggle. Have been a mechanic for 9 years now and this was the worst stuck axle I ever came across. The other side came right out, passenger side was seized. As long as you get them out without damaging them, you shouldn't need a new one. Good question🤙🏼
Yes! Only difference would be when doing the front ones. The 325xi will have an axle through each one, where as the 325i just has the axles in the back. This makes the 325i front wheel bearings very easy to take off as they are bolted on, instead of pressed in. Highly recommend getting the proper tools as listed in description. I have had countless people watch this video and then attempt the job without the right tools, only to have to then go get the right tools. I wish I had this video when I had to do it, had to learn the hard way🤙🏼
@@Mechani_Cole I didn’t expect such a quick response :). Thanks for the info. I will be following your video exactly, especially with the tools. I’ve done a lot of work on my car (mostly following certain RUclips people) but never worked on a wheel bearing. Thanks again!
@@ryan-el9er no problem at all, thanks for watching! The video makes this job look alot easier than it is, can be rather challenging. I even ended up stripping out the control arm when putting the other side back together. Had to replace the entire knuckle🤦♂️ Feel free to comment or reach out if you need any help🤙🏼
The bolt install torque is 110 NM or 81 Ft/lbs. (from the BMW TIS and Bentley) for the axles bolts. The torque is 410 nm. From the TIS. For all the axle nuts. Hope this helps🤙🏼
@@Mechani_Cole sure does! Thanks. Not sure if you mentioned it and I missed it, or if it just isn’t reticent on yours, but a few tips I learned on my 2011 e91; you have to release the parking brake or it is a nightmare to split the hub. Did it, but it also pulled the interior broke shoes off their mount with it when I pulled it. Added bonus information for anyone out there with a 2007-2011 328i wagon; parts stores will think you need the smaller OD wheel bearings that go on other BMWs, make sure to get the bigger ones (I believe also used on the convertible of that vintage). Oh, and make sure to take out the ABS wheel speed sensor, or you could crush it pulling the bearing out of the back side of the hub.
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
eManual Repair Manuals For Any Vehicle - shrsl.com/43l4o
I was quoted $700 to do this job and your video helped out alot to get this job done! For anyone that plan on doing this job, please get a FWD hub puller with or without slide hammer, get a bearing press kit, and bearing separator! Saves so much time and it makes the job easier. The brakes will be a pain in the ass to put together the first time but afterwards it's all worth it. My car feels completly different so I'm guessing my wheel bearing has been bad for awhile. Thank You!
@dbosnow2203 glad it was helpful! Can also rent most of those tools for free from many local parts stores too🫡
Are you aware this is the only intuitive guide to e90 rear wheel bearings on RUclips lol. Much thanks, stay classy, much love
Thanks Mark, much appreciated! I did look everywhere on how to do this job first and could not find a video about it. Happy it was helpful🤟🏼
Hey question, so I know this a old vid but hoping you could help. I replaced the wheel bearing hub and cv axle in the rear. Once done with install and now I have abs light and stays on. I made sure the magnetic strip went inward and well would you know why the abs stays on? Thanks
@@marlonfg01 check the wheel speed sensor itself make sure it’s clean and maybe replace it. Pull the codes it’ll help
Two years later and this is still the best tutorial available.
Thanks for this comment🫡👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
Great tutorial! A hot tip for removing the inner race (without a puller tool) from the hub once you pull the hub off: Carefully cut a slit into the inner race with a cutoff wheel, the cut doesn't have to go all the way through. Smack the cut with a hammer/chisel, and it should crack the inner race all the way through. You'll then be able to slip the inner race off the hub. I've been putting this job off for a while--my pre-LCI E90 has an ABS, DTC, and DSC light; the magnetic pickup in the left rear bearing seems to have worn away, giving erratic speed sensor readings. Cheers!
Good tip, but very bold to assume the average person could do that without causing further damage. The proper tool is very cheap, under $40 and avoids any chance of error or injury. The cut off tool may even cost more if someone doesn't already have one. Tips are always appreciated round here, but I like to encourage the proper use of tools for the job🫡
Great job and thanks so much for this awesome video. Just replaced the wheel bearing on my E90 and watching this helped me a lot. The only thing I add is to make sure to remove the ABS / speed sensor before pressing out the bearing. Mine got damaged and had to replace it. Thanks again.
Thanks for the comment, glad it was helpful🤟🏼
Awesome video, I just did my 335d rear bearings and that press from Oreillys made easy work removing and replacing the bearing.
I was able to loosen the hub nut before raising the vehicle by taking the center cap out of the wheel and using a breaker bar with the proper 36mm 12pt socket. So if you’re doing this by yourself with no one to hold the brake, you might want to try it that way.
Thanks man! Glad it was helpful, having the right tools makes all the difference for sure!
And you are 100% right on breaking the axle nut free BEFORE lifting it up. I meant to do that, forgot about it, and luckily had my brother close by to hold the brakes😬
But that is good advice!👏🏼
Chad did you need to remove or lower the twin exit exhaust system anywhere on the BMW e90 335d?
@@vp5 yes you will need to lower the exhaust. No need to remove though.
@@chadmaccanelli2381 alright thanks. How easy is it to lower? What's involved
@@vp5 it’s pretty easy. You have two reverse torx bolts close to the exhaust tips, then two nuts close to the pumpkin. Put a jack underneath it and lower it enough to get your work done.
Nice ! Extraordinary detail ! Super helpful !! I learned lots !!! Thanks mate .
👊🏼 🔥
Just did this job this morning/afternoon. I cannot overstate just how difficult it will be to get the axle stub out of the hub without the right tools/alot of heat/penetrating fluid. Broke a h/f 3 jaw puller doing it, ended up having use a map gas torch and torched the shit out of the hub and it still wasn't budging...prolly hammered/torched it/sprayed it down with penetrating fluid for about 30 minutes before it finally started to move and we got it out.
Congrats on finishing! This job can be such a pain in the ASS! It doesn't seem like it in the video, but we actually broke 2 rental tools and a breaker bar trying to pop it free. Same thing in the end we used a bunch of heat, PB Blaster, and a giant breaker bar with the jack handle on it. I still couldn't break it free so my brother that weighs like 260lbs came and put some weight on it and it finally broke free.
Meanwhile the other side popped out with just our finger pushing it in😅
I can't even count how many comments or messages I've had of people trying this job and trying to take shortcuts without the right tools. Never gonna work!
Happy the video helped you, thank you for sharing your story✌🏽
@@Mechani_Cole yeah man we went the "hammer the shit out of it" method after the hub puller broke and put the old axle nut a few threads down on the axle and a 17mm socket in there and just smashed away with a 5lb hammer and that's what got it, lots of heat, lots of penetrating fluid and lots of hammering. The axle nut keeps the socket in place so you don't have to worry about it slipping off while hammering. After that everything went really easy, it was the left side so we popped the exhaust off the hangers to get the axle out of the way.
@@JeeperZJ sounds about right. We tried the 5lb sledge method and it was still stuck. It spent literal days soaking in PB Blaster😅
Some one tried getting the bearings out and in without the tool too, good comedy😅
@@Mechani_Cole yeah I can see why you ended up having to replace the axle. We used a file to clean up the threads on it after we pulled it off the car and had no issues with putting the new axle nut on it. Worth a mention that I had to heat the nut up until it was glowing red and spray penetrating fluid before it came off as well. Spent at least an hour and a half between getting the nut off (used a Milwaukee m18 fuel) and freeing the axle stub from the wheel hub.
@@JeeperZJ a true in the trenches battle my friend. Great work👏🏼
It’s crazy how much more complex this looks to do at home, over doing it at a shop
Definitely not the easiest job and lots of things that could be messed up pretty easy.
Just a heads up for anyone that does this job, the axle nut may be a 30mm 12point socket or a 36mm 12point. just trying to save you some time
I thought I was smart for thinking of the socket thing to pull the bearing race out haha now checking how others did it and we’re both smart I guess
Thank you for the video..saved me tons of time..thank you
Right side is a lot easier than the left side excellent video
I agree, thanks for the comment🫡
How come??
Exhuast manifold makes one side harder
Appreciate the video man! Gonna go for it this weekend. My wife says I should call BMW to get a quote. I said hell no!
Appreciate the comment!
You should get a quote just to show her how outrageous the cost the would be😅
Make sure you get the bearing removal tool, almost impossible without it
Hello mate. Appreciated your video and very straightforward. However, my new bearing has some play in it right from the box... some said that it's normal snd it won't move at all once i tighten the axle nut. You got any ideas? Thanks!
Hi mate👋🏼 A little play is pretty normal, it should surely go away once torqued to the proper spec🫡
@@Mechani_Cole appreciate it bro. Thanks
Incredible
MAKE SURE TO REMOVE WHEEL SPEED SENSOR!
Thanks for the video helped a lot but a good preventable problem is to remove this sensor I’m not sure if I burned it with the torch or if the bearing remover damaged it
Orileys and autozone have these sensors for around $80-100
Fcp euro has oe for about $40 for both sides
Outstanding tutorial! I need to do this on my car very soon. I found the Harbor Freight bearing puller/press, but could you please share details about the other tools? The links aren’t showing in the description. Thank you 🙏
Hey James, thanks for your comment, very much appreciated🙏 For the rental tool, of the links are not working, try searching the part number that is listed next to each item in the description. They are rentals from Oriellys, you can call and give them the part number and they can look it up for you. Try clicking the links too, I just checked on the computer and the links should be good to go🤙🏼
I also found if u got a manual to tighten the axle just pop it in first and then to rotate it just pop it to neutral
Good tip, thanks for sharing!
Did you make sure to place bearing in the proper way? Meaning, does the magnetic encoder work with abs sensor?
No magnetic coder on this year/model in the video. If yours has it, just make sure it's facing the outside of the car
I did this recently on my 530i e60, it's similar to the e90. My car was on the jackstand for 3 days because we couldn't get the cv joint axle back in place... we did everything to get it in there so the last solution was to freeze the whole damn axle over the night and it worked! So if you have problem with your cv axle, don't be like me an bang the shit out of it freeze it over the night.
Now i have to buy a new cv joint axle.... 😆
What type of socket did you use for the bolts on the driveshaft? They look like stars but none of my stars will fit on it
It's called "Triple Square", don't try to use torx on it or it will strip out. Here is an affordable option that arrives quickly - amzn.to/3T00jLu
I use this set and they work great, good quality. Hope that helps🫡
How long does this take total?
Best guide ever!!
Appreciate that! Just learning so hopefully they keep getting better. Thanks for watching!
Do you have to remove the speed sensor ?
Not on this one
What was the tool called from oreillys to press out the bearings?
is it possible to press the new bearing on a new hub beforehand then put the whole assembly in ? Or is it necessary to put the new bearing in first then the hub ? thanks for the video 🙌👌
No, you have to press the bearing in the housing first. Then press the hub in after. However having it bolted up is helpful when wrenching the bearing out with the tool. It's holds everything in place.
@@Mechani_Cole thanks I guess I almost made a mistake 😅
@anon anon the reason you have to install the bearing first is because you have to install the snap ring to secure the bearing in. It will be very challenging to do with the hub on and having everything aligned correctly.
@@Mechani_Cole yes it seems obvious now, thanks !
No problem, it was a good question. Best of luck!
How did you put the axle nut back on? Like what tools to get it tightened correctly?
Just start it by hand, then use a large torque wrench to tighten to about 175ft lbs. If no torque wrench, use a breaker bar and put the jack handle over it for leverage. Don't use a ratchet.
@@Mechani_Cole okay thanks! Another question.. when separating the hub from the bearing cant i just let the axle still be inside and use a 3 armed pulley and push onto the axle to make it pop out? Or would that hurt the axle? Instead of using that hammer tool or pushing thru the hub bolt holes onto the back
Also, if you need a large torque wrench, your local auto parts store should rent them out for free. You get the money back once you bring the tool back, so its pretty cool
Good question, it wouldn't matter if you were able to get the hub off that way. You would still need the special tool to pull the bearing out from inside the knuckle, and also to press the bearing back in.
There isn't many, if any, shortcuts here on this job. This is pretty much the quickest way.
@@drivingbro the description of the video has all the helpful links at the best price as well. Some people buy the tool, then just return it after since Amazon rarely see's their returns and accept everything
Did you jack up the knuckle to pull out the axle from the bearing, like you did when inserting the axle in the bearing? You didn’t show how you removed the axle spline out of the bearing.
I don't think so. I think I pulled it out once I unbolted the other side from the diff. I lowered that side first. Then slide the Axle out of the bearing
@@Mechani_Cole I see. I replaced my rear driver side bearing a year ago and it’s going bad now. I’m going to replace it this weekend but I don’t want to remove the suspension again. I’m hoping I can slide out the spline without taking apart the suspension. As long as I disconnect it from the differential first, I should be able to slide it out, without dropping the exhaust?
@iamurnamann8662 correct. And if you have to do anything with the exhuast, just remove the back hanger and let it dangle a little
Did you had any squeaking noise by slow driving backwards? Thx
No but check your brake dust shield. It gets bent a little and can make contact with the rotor
@@Mechani_Cole ok thanks will check that today
Im trying to replace my wheel hub, do I need to replace my bearing if all I need to replace is the hub ?
Yes. Pulling out the hub without damaging the bearing is impossible. Needs to be replaced every time.
BRO THANK YOU !
🫡
Toque spec for the axle nut please?
310 ft lbs or 400nm
Will this work on the front wheel bearing? I have an 08 328xi
Yes, will he very similar with the axle running through it like this. Easier on the front because you can turn the wheel to get more access. Don't forget to remove the ABS sensor first, easy to break them if they are forgotten. Best of luck!
am i wrong or did you put your new bearing in backwards? the orange facing side on the old one came out facing inwards and the new one you put in facing outwards. ?
It doesn't matter on these ones.
At what point did you remove the sway bar link?
I don't think we ever removed the sway bar link unless I am mistaken🤔
The bearing puller set you recommended has a sleeve size of "3"O.D. x 2.5"Long." The bearing on my 325i has a 2.95" diameter. The sleeve supplied with this set should not work. Did you have to file or grind the sleeve to make it work?
No, ended up working perfect. Perhaps the sleeve size is rounded up on the listing. Kind of like a 2×4. There is multiple sleeves as well in different sizes.
How did you take of the wheel hub? Mine isn’t coming off. I saw you use the hub puller but how did you get it to come off
Since I was replacing the axle as well, I put the hub puller on and left the axle in, then I used the axle to push off of with the hub puller. Sometimes you can smack them out with a hammer as well.
Can I replace the hub and not the wheel bearing? My bearing is fine the hub is bent though
Good question, no you can NOT. When you remove the hub, it ruins the bearing. By design. Nothing you can do but get a new bearing as well.
Did you rid off abs sensor from the sterring? Regards from Poland.
No, I didn't get rid of it, still there, or its on the other side. Can't remember 100%
I cant put my cv axle back in my differential case. Threads look ok. Removed retaining clip ring just to make sure its not the one that caused resistance but same. I have 1.5 cm gap between diff and cup of CV axle inner end. Hammering doesnt do anything. What the hell is wrong
You may have to just slam it in there. If you have a camera you could look inside to see if it's being stopped by anything. Might be able to use your phone to see inside as well
@@Mechani_Cole i tried hammering whole cv axle but didnt move an inch. I will try to reassembly whole axle for diff flange end and try to put it on its own (its only short so will be easier to Hammer in). Hope my diff internals are ok 🤢🤮
Hammering an axle usually won't do much. To much of the blow is absorbed by the joints in the Axle. Typically just grab them and slam them in by the shaft is what I've had to do
Thank you. Did you have to remove the sway bar to get the axle out? Is it a must?
Can't remember 100%, but pretty sure you don't have to remove the sway bar to get the axle out.
@@Mechani_Cole thanks mate. Awesome 👏 job
No parking brake?
Parking brake is on the other side if I remember right
Help guys mine e90 bearings it does not want to come out all you showed didn't work for me
They don't come out easy at all. Do you have the proper tool to remove it? It can't be removed without the bearing removing tool
Super video! Can you confirm which direction the bearing goes in - with the narrower stripe first (inwards) or outwards?
Thank you! To the best of my knowledge and memory, on this 325i the bearing was exactly the same on both sides. I found no difference so it shouldn't matter.
If there is a ring or something different, that side usually goes in first.
Thanks for watching🤙🏼
@@Mechani_Cole Ok thanks for coming back appreciate your comment! On the e46 I’ve read that the side of the bearing with the encoder has to go in first but currently i can’t tell which side it is on my new bearing kit. Trying to figure it all out before i attempt the repair
@@Mechani_Cole yours has the abs rings on the driveshafts. Later models read directly on the bearing so orientation may be important. SKF VKBA 6632 is different on each side
@@jdandcoke absolutely! Thats why the title for this one is just for the E90's.
Thanks for pointing that out to any viewers, it may be helpful🤙🏻
@@Mechani_Cole mine is a e9x (e91) lci. Not sure when the change happened. Maybe at the lci point. About to start my bearings today. Had to wait for the puller kit. Bought one on amazon after watching your video
Did you use a bigger diameter circle in the back of the bearing to press the bearing In and then a smaller diameter circle through the back of the bearing to fit the inner race to press the hub in? I used a larger diameter one for both and think I messed up the bearing... twice, gonna give it another shot after I order more bearings :(
The diameter would NOT change in the back when you are pushing the hub on. Leave the one on the back the larger one. When pressing the hub in, it shouldn't matter as much what that sized diameter is. As long as it pushes the hub in evenly. Keep in mind, you want to have the diameter of the to as close to the edge of the bearing as possible. If you press with a small diameter, it will ruin the inside of the bearing. You want the tool, touching the edges of the bearing, without touching the hub.
This Is Coleman thanks! So just to be clear, larger diameter as close to the edge of the bearing touching the bearing and not touching on the hole where the bearing goes into right? Because my 335i has a lip before where it stops the bearing so I was using a circle bigger than the hole without it touching the bearing, mayne that was my mistake🤔
@@islandboi10000 sounds right. Also, when pushing your bearing in, you can use the old bearing and stack it on the new one. This way, it is perfectly the exact diameter. This will get is past the lip as well and seat the bearing all the way in the hole.
When pressing the bearing back in, make sure the back plate is BIGGER than the hole so it has something to pull on.
One more tip! Freeze your bearings in the freezer overnight or for 6 hours. Then take a torch and heat up the hole. Stick the frozen bearing inside the hot hole and it will go almost all the way in. Be fast and wear gloves, then finish with press.
When the hole is heated up, it expands. When the bearing is frozen, it shrinks.
Making it very easy to stick in. Don't feel bad, I ruined the other side by stripping a bolt. Check out the "I broke my gf bmw" video. It shows me doing the whole install in a time lapse.
Lets just say, its easier after you mess it up once🤣
This Is Coleman lol we all mess up now and again! After I broke the second bearing I was like I’m gonna sell this car but I’m gonna be a soldier and try again! Thanks for all the help, your video was the best, only thing I wasn’t too sure of was the diameters of the circles but that’s it, thanks again Coleman!
@@islandboi10000 just take your time and you will prevail! Thanks for watching, update here if you fix it🤙🏼
Nice thumbnail!
Thanks mate!
Was there any reason why you didn't remove the rotor first then pushed the axle all the way in with the Bearing Adaptor Puller?
Yes, good question!
This axle was actually so seized that it broke 2 different tools. We kept the rotor and the brake pad on so that we could push the brakes at the same time while breaking the axle free.
This axle was very stubborn and extremely stuck, it took many hours hence my excitement at the time.
The other axle popped right out with no tool, this axle however, decided it was going to be so stuck that it broke tools😅
Thanks for watching🤟🏼
Awesome video man. This encouraged me to finally do mine on my day off on Friday. I've been putting it off for far too long. Anyone know if I should only need the 369.00 tool? I just replaced that axle last fall so it shouldn't be siezed. Can I use the $369 tool to remove the hub as well or do I need another tool to take the hub off to get to the bearing?
Thanks man, hope you get it fixed with no issues. That rental tool is needed, they refund the money once you return it. Or you can check the link in the description, there is a full kit for $69. Can always buy it, use it and just return it😅
You also need the hub puller, its about $30 to rent. Also a 3lb hammer may help too.
Lastly, you will need the bearing separator tool to remove the bearing race from the hub. They have these at harbor freight. I show how to use that in the middle of the video.
Best of luck, let me know if you have any other questions🤙🏼
I'm definitely missing something, but how did you use the breaker bar when pulling the hub without the wheels spinning. My xDrive in gear will still allow the wheels to spin alone, though can't say I understand how that happens. Right now the hub just turns and can't pull it with the three lugnut tool.
See how the brake rotor and the brakes are still hooked up?
I left them connected so we could push the brake down or use the emergency brake to lock up the wheel up from spinning.
This axle was so seized it actually broke 2 different tools. Took about 4-6 hours to get the axle free. Thats why I celebrate and flip it the bird in the video, it wasn't easy.
But yeah, we used the brakes to lock up the wheel from spinning when removing it. Had to use a breaker bar with a jack handle on it to get it free in the end.
Thanks for watching and good question!
Besides the Bearing Separator, what's the black tool you used with it? Great tutorial. 👍
Hey, thanks for watching and commenting! I listed all the tools used in this video in the description. Not sure what one you are referring too. Click on some of the links and see if you find what it is, happy to help is anymore questions😁
@@Mechani_Cole I was referring to the tool you used with the bearing separator at 4:35. Is that a pilot bearing puller?
@@Isa1ahL33 Ah I see, this is a Bearing Separator. Here is a link to the one I used amzn.to/2MXX5Kq . Free overnight shipping I believe, either way a great tool to have. They have a version at harbor Freight as well if easier for you.
AMAZING !!!! Thx a lot!
Thanks for watching🤟🏼
The axle you used is repackaged at a lot of retailers...is it still holding up?..and did you use the bolts that come with, or reuse the original?..and I see in most pics that the axle nut is different, depending whether right/left side(6point/12point)...was this the case w/you?
Axle held up fine for over a year later. I used the original bolts, I didn't like the bolts that came with. I had the 12 point axle nut, just need the 12 point socket instead.
Good questions🤙🏼
@@Mechani_Cole that's good to hear, that it's holding up...the same axles are packaged trakmotive on rockauto...but the bolts and one nut are different...I prefer the 12point bcuz that's like the original, so I emailed them about that 6point(still waiting for a reply)...and yeah, the included bolts look sketchy...forgot to ask, did you have to use grease at all?..or was it good to go...appreciate it
Yeah, a lot of these "parts" companies all sell the same stuff with different logos now days. 12 point all the way, the 6 strip to easy. No grease was needed, however I did put loctite on all the threads on those bolts going into the diff to be safe.
To torque them, I put 2 wheel lugs in and put a pry bar between them for leverage so they didn't move but I could still rotate them in between.
@ 5:23 You could have just used the hub bolts to push the bearing separator off much easier....
Also, you didn't mention that those bearings go in only one direction, since the magnetic ring is on the inside for the speed sensor.
Only reason I avoid that is to avoid any threads being potentially stripped. You are right, you can do that as an option though. Thanks for your comment🤙🏼
@@Tom-yc8jv on the 2006 325i, there is NO magnetic ring. They go in either way on this year and model. 328i and 335i have the magnetic strip usually.
Drop a comment or like this comment if this video helped you!🙌
This video helped out a lot, thank you
@@ctapia0321 thanks for sharing! Appreciate you leaving a comment, happy I could help🤟🏼
bravo băieți sunteti tari !!!
Do I need a new axle or no
No, you don't need a new axle. I needed one here because I made the mistake of hammering the front of the axle and messed up the threads. The axle was actually so stuck it broke 4 different rental tools and took several hours to break free. This video skipped a lot of that struggle.
Have been a mechanic for 9 years now and this was the worst stuck axle I ever came across. The other side came right out, passenger side was seized.
As long as you get them out without damaging them, you shouldn't need a new one.
Good question🤙🏼
What size socket did you use to remove the nut?
Pretty sure it was a size 32mm. If I remember right, I went and bought one just for this job at the parts store🤙🏼
@@Mechani_Cole Thanks for the reply. Seems like the one on my vehicle is a 37mm.
Wow almost the same In e46
Good to know! Thanks for commenting🤙🏼
i assume this also applies to 2006 325xi?
Yes! Only difference would be when doing the front ones. The 325xi will have an axle through each one, where as the 325i just has the axles in the back. This makes the 325i front wheel bearings very easy to take off as they are bolted on, instead of pressed in.
Highly recommend getting the proper tools as listed in description. I have had countless people watch this video and then attempt the job without the right tools, only to have to then go get the right tools.
I wish I had this video when I had to do it, had to learn the hard way🤙🏼
@@Mechani_Cole I didn’t expect such a quick response :). Thanks for the info. I will be following your video exactly, especially with the tools. I’ve done a lot of work on my car (mostly following certain RUclips people) but never worked on a wheel bearing. Thanks again!
@@ryan-el9er no problem at all, thanks for watching!
The video makes this job look alot easier than it is, can be rather challenging. I even ended up stripping out the control arm when putting the other side back together. Had to replace the entire knuckle🤦♂️
Feel free to comment or reach out if you need any help🤙🏼
@@Mechani_Cole definitely will do. i may get to this in a week or 2. waiting on parts for an unrelated repair.
What are the torque specs on the axel bolts and nut?
The bolt install torque is 110 NM or 81 Ft/lbs. (from the BMW TIS and Bentley) for the axles bolts.
The torque is 410 nm. From the TIS. For all the axle nuts.
Hope this helps🤙🏼
@@Mechani_Cole sure does! Thanks.
Not sure if you mentioned it and I missed it, or if it just isn’t reticent on yours, but a few tips I learned on my 2011 e91; you have to release the parking brake or it is a nightmare to split the hub. Did it, but it also pulled the interior broke shoes off their mount with it when I pulled it.
Added bonus information for anyone out there with a 2007-2011 328i wagon; parts stores will think you need the smaller OD wheel bearings that go on other BMWs, make sure to get the bigger ones (I believe also used on the convertible of that vintage). Oh, and make sure to take out the ABS wheel speed sensor, or you could crush it pulling the bearing out of the back side of the hub.
@@orenfharris great tips! Thanks for sharing that🤟🏼
VVhat mm is the axle nut
Is there is a reason why my hub isn’t turning like yours? What am I doing wrong?!
After the install the hub is not spinning? Or before the install?
Awsome video thank you
Appreciate the comment, thanks for watching👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
Where your location at I need a job done on my bmw
Located in North Seattle, but don't have much time for any projects as of lately🤙🏼
Nice video
Thank you! Truly appreciate that comment, thanks for watching🙏🏼
I thought the red side went inside because it's the magnetic side
For 08 and after, I do believe that's true. For this year 325I, both sides were identical besides color.
подкладывайте шайбы под болты, иначе конусные части болтов портят отверстия в съёмнике.
Это хороший совет, спасибо!
what is the socket size used to remove the race from the hub? at 4:52?
16mm if I remember correctly🤔