You may not realize it' but every hour you put into this build, you have saved a first time builder about 5 to 10 hours of the same. Nice start for a first timer !
Yes I do realize that. That’s why I keep going. I’m really trying to help the next owner. I’m now finish welding the chassis (which I hadn’t planned to do) and getting things ready for a coat of black paint.
Great job with the radius rods and crossmember Mike! That rod is really coming along nicely! It sure will be a wonderful start for someone, especially someone not comfortable doing those more difficult things!....and has been lots of enjoyment watching! Thanks lots!
Another good episode. I would have like to seen the torque rod go in so people understand the radius rods can’t take the suspension loads by themselves… Another play on the channel name Thi-Sold Hot Rod!
If you could find a late 40s pickup rearend, they are already set up with an open drive on the banjo rear end. I had a 47 Ford pickup back in the day that was set up like that, which made it super simple to swap it out for a later model rear end (57 Ford 9") when I dropped a 351 engine into it to replace the flathead I burned up. Good stuff going on in your shop.
I have one. But they’re so wide. They don’t look right with a model a front axle. Not to mention they’re getting really hard to find and expensive. I wasn’t willing to get rid of it on this car. But it’ll get used on something. At least the center section with 39 axles and bells
Morning Mike, I used a 9" Ford rear end in my 31 Coupe, I used F-350 Ford outer Tie Rod Ends, made the ends, used 1940 Ford radius rods/arms and attached them to the trans crossmember...Be safe!! God bless!!!
On the other end, for years the Corvair front suspension was popular with hotrodders, that was until the Mustang II came out (came with disc brakes, rack and pinion steering). ;-)
I could have and I still can. They’re simply tacked in place. Henry Ford didn’t rosette weld the ends on when they built them. They only welded the ends in the tubes, on every car.
Nice job on the radius rods. The car is looking awesome it will make someone a nice ride. Are you going to the swap meet in stafford springs next month
Camera shutting off? Go Pro? I'm upgrading probably a hero 9 or 10. Radius rods look good shouldn't hinder the next owner from putting in a manual trans. If they desire.
No. It’s not a GoPro. My SD card was full. I forgot to format it. I’ve been taping a lot and I forgot to. I’ve got a GoPro 10. It’s great. The 11 is out now. It’s even better
Yup I did. Checked it a bunch of times. It’s within 1/16” I measured and squared the front when I set that up. Plenty of adjustments in the ends to fine tune it afterwards if need be
The rear suspension needs to be triangulated. Can they be run strait to the frame rails. Yes, but the axle won’t pivot as it needs to. That’s how things bend or break. Lots of old rods were built that way back in the day. If you look at any early ford rear suspension setup or geometry. This is essentially the same thing except it uses heim joints and universal joints on the driveshaft. Instead of a ball and socket at the back of the trans
@@ThisOldHotrod There is so much info out there but I like the way you are doing it. I quess if you run parallel you would need a pan hard bar. More chances of binding
You may not realize it' but every hour you put into this build, you have saved a first time builder about 5 to 10 hours of the same. Nice start for a first timer !
Yes I do realize that. That’s why I keep going. I’m really trying to help the next owner.
I’m now finish welding the chassis (which I hadn’t planned to do) and getting things ready for a coat of black paint.
@@ThisOldHotrod It is quite an advantage to buy a car from a RUclipsr. Imagine having a video of the work done on a custom car you bought.
@@nboldrini haha I know right. I’ve done a full documentary of the build. I think that will be really helpful for the next person.
True.
Great job with the radius rods and crossmember Mike! That rod is really coming along nicely! It sure will be a wonderful start for someone, especially someone not comfortable doing those more difficult things!....and has been lots of enjoyment watching! Thanks lots!
Thanks Jon. I appreciate it very much.
Another good episode. I would have like to seen the torque rod go in so people understand the radius rods can’t take the suspension loads by themselves…
Another play on the channel name Thi-Sold Hot Rod!
I’m going to show that on one of the upcoming videos.
Nice work dude! Finish line is in sight!
Getting close for sure !
Nice going with the radius rod setup, looking forward to seeing how you install the driveshaft conversion.
It’s just a simple bolt on adapter. 👍🏼
Love the way you engineered the rear end mount and enjoying your build. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks. Got the torque rod installed this afternoon.
Looking good, you're definitely gonna have someone fall in love with it.
On to the next video lol
Yes sir. On to the next. 😎👍🏼
If you could find a late 40s pickup rearend, they are already set up with an open drive on the banjo rear end. I had a 47 Ford pickup back in the day that was set up like that, which made it super simple to swap it out for a later model rear end (57 Ford 9") when I dropped a 351 engine into it to replace the flathead I burned up. Good stuff going on in your shop.
I have one. But they’re so wide. They don’t look right with a model a front axle. Not to mention they’re getting really hard to find and expensive. I wasn’t willing to get rid of it on this car.
But it’ll get used on something. At least the center section with 39 axles and bells
Thanks for the lunch time video. I hope the next custodian of this car enjoys it.
I hope so. I’m sure the will.
Morning Mike, I used a 9" Ford rear end in my 31 Coupe, I used F-350 Ford outer Tie Rod Ends, made the ends, used 1940 Ford radius rods/arms and attached them to the trans crossmember...Be safe!! God bless!!!
That’s what I used on my 29 sedan. With a banjo rear
Another great episode Mike!
Thank you Tony
good to see you back !
Thanks Mike awesome video.
Thanks Doug
Nice job looking good
Thanks !
Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for following along
On the other end, for years the Corvair front suspension was popular with hotrodders, that was until the Mustang II came out (came with disc brakes, rack and pinion steering). ;-)
I never seen one used before.
Pontiac Tempest had a stronger removable front crossmember than the Corvair.
I’m in love with it
You should have drilled holes in the ends of radius rods for rosette welds on bungs
I could have and I still can. They’re simply tacked in place. Henry Ford didn’t rosette weld the ends on when they built them. They only welded the ends in the tubes, on every car.
You won't have a problem selling this car!
I’m hoping that’s the case.
Nice job Mike looks nice
Thanks John.
Hope to see you there I would like to meet you
Ya. I’ll be there for sure. I try to go every year
I am interested in seeing what you do for rear shocks .
I’m not putting shocks on it. The next owner can do that.
Nice job on the radius rods. The car is looking awesome it will make someone a nice ride. Are you going to the swap meet in stafford springs next month
Yup. I’ll be there walking around.
Looking good.like boxing frame,should front of frame be boxed ?
Yup. Whole frame. Lot of guys leave the front frame horns unboxed. For the look
also wondering what year axels front and rear are used on the 31 sedan I what to look into juice brakes parts?
You can see the frame flex when you pull on radius rod.frame needs boxed
Said that in the video. 2 times.
I would have made crosmember on the bench ,welded it then ibstalled it in car.easier to keep things aligned
Yeah, I thought of that afterwards when I mocked up the center section on the table. Either way it worked out just fine.
👍
Camera shutting off? Go Pro? I'm upgrading probably a hero 9 or 10. Radius rods look good shouldn't hinder the next owner from putting in a manual trans. If they desire.
No. It’s not a GoPro. My SD card was full. I forgot to format it. I’ve been taping a lot and I forgot to.
I’ve got a GoPro 10. It’s great. The 11 is out now. It’s even better
did you square up the rear end to the frame and from end
Yup I did. Checked it a bunch of times. It’s within 1/16”
I measured and squared the front when I set that up.
Plenty of adjustments in the ends to fine tune it afterwards if need be
Hey brother , just curious is that cross member going to be to low if someone wants to lower the car in the future ? Thanks for another !!
It’s the same height as the trans crossmember and higher than the oil pan.
lookin cool heat it bend it like it sub it
Yes sir !
Can the rear radius rods be run parallel or do they need to be run inboard like you have them. Just thinking about stability.
The rear suspension needs to be triangulated. Can they be run strait to the frame rails. Yes, but the axle won’t pivot as it needs to. That’s how things bend or break.
Lots of old rods were built that way back in the day. If you look at any early ford rear suspension setup or geometry. This is essentially the same thing except it uses heim joints and universal joints on the driveshaft. Instead of a ball and socket at the back of the trans
@@ThisOldHotrodThx. Good to know . I will doing this with my model t rear suspension
@@rockiecollins4412 do your own research. Lots of info on RUclips and on the Hamb. Everyone has their own way to do things.
@@ThisOldHotrod There is so much info out there but I like the way you are doing it. I quess if you run parallel you would need a pan hard bar. More chances of binding
Mike, I wanted your car before you built it.
I wish you spoke up. Haha