2013 Durango Oil pressure sensor, upper & lower intake removal - code P0520
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- Опубликовано: 11 июл 2024
- NOTE THROTTLE BODY REMOVAL AND FUEL LINE DISCONNECT IS OPTIONAL. This video is to assist with removal of upper and lower intake on 2013 dodge Durango 3.6 liter engine. The problem I experienced was a P0520 check engine light code which is oil pressure sensor circuit fault. After doing some research I found the cause is usually a bad oil pressure sensor which unfortunately is located under the lower intake manifold nearest the firewall. For additional info on this removal I recommend watching MotorCity Mechanic's videos. He does a much more detailed job on 3.6 v6 intake removal, but fails to detail the differences for north/south mounted engines as in the Durango. I recommend watching the following four videos. Good luck with your repairs.
• Part 1/3: 2014 Dodge A...
• Part 2/3: 2014 Dodge A...
• Part 3/3: 2014 Dodge A...
• Chrysler, Dodge, Ram, ...
Hey guys beware of Oil filter bypass valve failure, it is also common to this engine type from 2011 to 2013 for all 3.6L Dodge, Ram and Jeep products. Here's a link to a great video for that repair and recommend subscribing to MotorCity Mechanic's page.
• 2011-2013 Chrysler, Do... 
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This helped save me a bunch of time. I couldn't find any info on how to replace the oil sensor.
A few notes on steps you can skip:
The throttle body does not need to come off.
The fuel line does not need to be removed, plenty of slack to move it out of the way temporarily.
I want to thank you for the very helpful information. I could not have achieved this task of replacing the OPS as effectively with out you.
Came across your video when doing the same project. Great tips and appreciate you posting it. Very helpful.
Great Video! I certainly appreciate the details regarding loosening brackets to free up the intake....Good stuff.
I really appreciate your video. It saved me from giving up. Thank you very much.
Replace your spark plugs while you are doing this! Maybe your upper intake gaskets as well. They are a PITA to access and you are doing all the labor already. Great video man, really appreciate it.
A big THANK YOU for a great video! It was an enormous help in performing this task on my 2014!
Glad it helped.
Thanks for the video. It came in very handy. One thing I have learned from experience with sensors in hidden spots like this, check the wires, they don't like the heat. The durango I'm working on now has a wire pulled loose from the plug. I had to get a new pigtail from the autoparts store.. Not a bad Idea to go ahead and replace gaskets while you're in there too. Thanks again.
Awesome video. Just what I was looking for. Thank you for taking the time to post this.
Thank you for the video it was very detailed and helped me immensely for changing the sensor on my 2012 Durango.
W B you’re welcome. My whole point was to help others as I found little info online for the Durango.
You gave me enough information to do my 3 spark plugs ! Upper intake removal was right on
Manny Decastro you’re welcome, glad it helped.
Thank you for your time. Been looking as well fro a Dodge Durango 3.6 2014 the pressure switch. But you clear my mind now. Im going to replace the part instead of looking under the car where the switch in NOT located. Anyways thank you
Thanks so much for taking the time to post this video. I had to replace the motor mounts on my wife's 2012 Durango. I had to remove the upper intake in order to gain clearance to remove the motor mounts. Great vid appreciate it.
No prob, that's why I posted to help folks out. Is there a better way maybe, but this is better than what I found available at the time.
Thanks for posting this video! It was the exact same steps for my 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee. The only thing that would have helped is that on the front right mount you have to loosen they have a small locking nut holding on the hose bracket. Also I started to pull the injector rail, but then realized you didn’t have to remove it. Thanks again awesome video!
For anyone wondering the back nut is actually 1/2 inch but this actually helped out alot thank you
First of all I want to say thank you for putting this video together! I was able to replace the oil pressure sensor in my 2012 Dodge Durango (3.6 crew all wheel drive) and go for a test drive in about three hours after watching your video. One step I did skip that you showed was removing the fuel line. I simply zip-tied the lower intake manifold up out of the way. Doing this probably saved me 20mins. Either way good job on the video it helped out tremendously!
Sam thanks. Yes it’s possible to complete the without disconnecting the fuel line which is a plus if you don’t need to tear into the motor more.
Someone wanted to charge me $600 for the part and $600 for the labor. Thank you good sir!
Thanks for the great video jchack88. I just did a Grand Cherokee, same thing. Not sure what the flat rate is, but I took 3 hours. To get those brackets on drivers side you can remove the two bolts under the power steering pump, one is lower on the block, that hold the large metal pipe (Aluminum heater hose pipe) attachment brackets. Then remove nut on the rear bracket and pull the line out and upwards, then you can get a 13mm deep socket on the pesky bolt holding the rear bracket. While I had the upper intake off I ground out the top hole on the brackets so next time (I hope not) you can just lift manifold out of the slots. Careful where the grinding filings fall.
Thanks for the vid by the way. The cooler seems to be leaking there sooo off it comes again.
Good old boy made it really clear
Thank you thank you! Very informative.
Excellent video sir.
First of all, this video is invaluable for speeding up the process of getting to the oil pressure sensor on the 3.6L Durango. I actually got a 9900 Pg service manual off of eBay and this video helped me more doing the job.
Here are a few things to really focus on in the video:
The rear screw/bolt on the upper intake manifold is tricky and you need to find some way to prop it up so it won't get hung up as you slide it out. As he states, there isn't a lot of clearance as you pull it out.
The nut holding the drivers side rear mount is the hardest part of the job. A standard craftsman wrench barely fits in between the mount and the bracket holding the larger hoses next to it. I had to get creative trying to jam the wrench in there and there is just no good way to get it in there. I didn't move the hoses as the guy in the video did and was able to back it off a few turns and then pried it back with a screw driver and slipped the stud out from the mount.
I was able to get the manifolds off without completely disconnecting all of the connectors and the fuel line. I simply moved the upper intake to the passengers side and the lower intake to the drivers side. I still took off all 6 of the clips going to the lower manifold. To reiterate, I did not touch the fuel line.
I borrowed a 27mm deep socket to do this job but I'd say it was just about as tricky as using a crescent wrench to do the job. It's very very hard to get the socket over the sensor and equally hard to get a half inch ratchet on the back. It took some serious time even with a socket as there is little room near the firewall.
Hopefully these tips help someone along with this great video explaining which brackets to loosen.
Kyle Roberts, thanks for the feedback and additional tips. My whole point in the video was to help others as I found limited information on this task. Just looking to help out and save people money on labor cost.
jchack88 Thanks again for saving me time and money with your video. I was quoted $96 for the part and $363 in labor. I bought the part for $34 total and about 4 hours of my time start to finish. Great help
If you have a problem with the sensors will you experience any performance issues?
Yo bud thank u very much this video has helped me so so much bro thanks man
Awesome video !!!! I have a 2013 Jeep Wrangler ... with the same 3.6L motor... the throttle body and upper intake plenum is easier to get off, but I haven't tackled the lower plenum yet. I assume the fuel rail is the same, probably located in a different spot, I hope it isnt that hard to get disconnected ... i DO NOT want to pay the dealer 700 dollars to get this done so I will use your video as a reference! .. great job !!
Drew, note some have commented that they didn’t disconnect the fuel line. They just unbolted the lower manifold and swung it to the side. I found it easy enough to just disconnect the line so I did, but it’s not necessary.
Yep, I've already been there.
Good video.
That bolt on the bracket is giving me hell. Finally got it loose and now the socket won't fit on the sensor. Thanks for the video
Also be ready in case dirt is piled up around the seal area at bottom of lower intake manifold. When the seal is broken it may try to fall down the sloped seal surface into boltholes and engine valves.
Thank you.for this informative video. It was extremely helpful ,even 9 years later.
Very Detailed!
Great video thx for doing it
Your video was very helpful but on my 2012 Durango I was able to remove the lower intake manifold without disconnecting the fuel line . Its a long enough flexible line to move the manifold with fuel rails attached to the side. Just had to remove the injector wire plugs. And cut a couple ziptie wire holders next to the firewall to free up the manifold.
Wesley Ashley, glad it helped and thanks for the input. Anything that makes this job easier is a plus.
I never disconnected the hoses on the back of the upper manifold either. I just flipped that upsidedown and laid it to the left (passenger side) and then laid the lower on the right (driverside).
I can't say thank you enough... 👍
Thank you for the great info!!
Thank you very much.
Thank you!
I have a Lisle 13250 Oil Pressure Switch Socket that worked great to remove sender. Also I only removed the injector wires on the passenger side and only the coil wires and holding clips on the drivers side, and didn't remove the fuel line, I left it on and just tied the lower manifold up out of the way.
AL M, thanks for the info all great ideas.
TY great job
Good job brotha
I appreciate the video my 2018 is a bit different maybe easier. But the valley was full of oil I replaced the whole assembly. Should be good now. Thanks for the video!
Thank you sir
Thanks!!!
Really a good video. My trouble is the temperature coolant sensor. I kept hoping you'd show that in the video so I could locate it. No one seems to have a video describing it's location or it's replacement. Is this something you've done also?
Matthew Atchison check out Motorcity mechanics channel. He has lots of great info and my go to source. He may have what you’re looking for.
Dodge needs to recall this part. My 14 Ram Outdoorsman 6cyl with just 33k on it is at the dealer getting this replaced. "Warranty Work".
Agreed Roger, unfortunately that is not likely. Seem every car manufacture has their problems. Luckily in this case the parts are cheap at least.
Can I get to the wire connectors to the O2 sensor, Bank 2?
I have a 2013 Dodge durango and the p0019 code. Check engine, where is the ckp sensor in my Dodge??
Hey, thx for video on these rango's I'm searching for my issue, '13 3.6 but not really getting anywhere. My oil psi is all over the place, but no light. oil level is good. filter switch is good, runs good... Any ideas?
Boca 15 assuming the engine is at a constant speed if oil press fluxing wildly most likely the oil pressure sensor is bad. Not much else would cause such a condition assuming the oil pump is good and that is not a high fail item. Plus oil pumps tend to either work or fail completely.
On my 2017 dodge durango sxt i had a code P0305 cylinder 5 misfire pop up. When taking of the upper intake manifold i notice the hole on my lower intake manifold next to cylinder 5 was filled with water/coolant. Is that normal?
I may have to do this soon. My check engine light came on and the oil pressure sensor is "stuck" reading 668 kpa. I think that's 96 psi. So I came to the conclusion that the oil pressure sensor is broken. I'll need to get the diagnostic reading done to make sure its not something else soon. I also noticed a bit of decreased performance but it isn't anything major(I hope)
Christopher Bull, check the codes, but my guess you are correct. Parts are cheap. Mine was less than $40 dollars if I remember correctly.
Hello by any chance do you happen to know what is the Torque spec for tightening down the upper and lower intake manifold?
Yes the upper intake is 89 inch pounds and the lower is 106 inch pounds. Note this is inch pounds, not foot pounds so 1/4 drive torque wrench is all that is needed with torque this low.
It's one ugaduda
Would the car still start and run tho right ?
Are these sensors really like 176ft lb torque spec?
Is that hose the by the oil sensor gauge a coolant hose? I have a pretty bad coolant leak and it seems like that is the culprit. To get to it I have to remove all this junk! I have a 2013 Dodge Journey. Almost the same setup especially if I replacing what you did. I just don’t see how it’s leaking out of that hose. But I have no idea where else it might come from.
Any hoses running/mounted to the oil cooler which the oil pressure sensor is mounted to is in fact an engine coolant hose as the oil cooler has engine coolant running through it to cool the oil. Most likely the water leak is from the oil cooler itself as the oil cooler on 3.2 and 3.6 engines is a high failure item.
@@jchack88 thanks. Yea. Seems to be the issue. Tons of antifreeze leaking with no clear sign. I assume if I take that in it will be somewhere around a grand. Fixable but a pita
I paid $860 to have the oil cooler and water pump replaced, but I used a independent shop. I normally do all my own work, but I was traveling out of state and didn’t have much choice.
@@jchack88 wow. And I’m in California Bay Area. Probably damn near double. I can do it but damn I don’t want to
where is the oil pressure sending unit on a 13 jeep grand Cherokee? check engine light came on, the codes telling me its this switch
tommyirish86 assuming it's the 3.6 liter it should be in the same location as the Durango 3.6 liter engine as they are the same.
You didn't need to disconnect the fuel line. Just move the lower intake over to drivers side
Correct as noted in the pinned post. I removed those items as I wanted to inspect them more throughly along with some other things. Thanks again for reminding folks just the same.
My upper intake has some motor oil inside. Is that normal???
Sgt. Hollow Point yes it is completely normal to find a small amount of oil in the intake. The PCV system for the crankcase vents to the intake just behind the throttle body for emission purposes. Small microscopic oil droplets collect in the intake from this system.
Did you replace the intake manifold gaskets?
I did not. They are rubber and usually hold up well to repeated use, but its best to inspect them and replace if they are hard and brittle.
did you have to replace the intake gaskets when done?
No, they are rubber and reusable. Just take care not to damage them.
Should have replaced all the gaskets. Standard mopar by the book.
The rubber O rings are what leak oil into the valley.
If you’re there, replace everything, the cooler, hoses and sensors are all high failure items.
Hello,to remove the lower intake is it necessary to empty the antifreeze?
No it is not. Water does not run through the intake. However if you are replacing the oil cooler (which is water cooled) you are required to drained the antifreeze to prevent cross-contamination with the oil during oil cooler removal.
@@jchack88 okay thanks.👍👍👍👍
Good videos!
I have to change the seals for the intake?
Samael 666, sorry for the late reply. no seal usually are in good condition and reusable.
jchack88 thanks I don’t change nothing until you reply 😅
How do you remove the main top cover im having trouble?
Sirhc C I would assume by now you figured it out, but just in case it simply lift off. It’s just held on with rubber bushings that the mounting post push/pull through.
jchack88 ill look again just seems like its bolted on because doesn't lift but thanks!!!!!
Hi friend, how much time it takes this job??
Plan on 3 to 4 hours.
@@jchack88 tanks , because on Monday I have to do it and I tell my client it takes only a day
Can't access the back bracket close to the fire wall.. wiring harness is attached to it. I've used every curse word I know
is s there a filter under the sensor
amberjoye69, no the sensor mounts to the oil filter assembly. The oil filter is accessible from the top side of the assembly without removal of the intake to ease of oil and filter changes.
Should have just replace the cooler because it's all one assembly and it comes with all those sensors
I would hsd replaced the whole cooler with that sensor no way i am going back again later on to do that again
Melvin Agreed, if your budget allows to replace good parts as preventative maintenance that’s a great idea. However, even replacement coolers continue to fail as the design is just bad. Now I and others recommend upgrading the cooler to the 2017 design which is much improved. That does, however bring on the added risk of a different oil filter type which someone could mistakenly use the old type.
the main thing people want to know is the the sensor clear that code
In my case yes it cleared the code.
Ross parker
i have a 5.7 hemi engine 2013 dodge durango i need to change my oil pressure zensor but dont really know where its located....the durango you are showing is a different engine
Lazaro Torres yep this is for a 3.6 v6. Sorry I have no info on the 5.7
@@jchack88 ok thanx
Did u find out any info on the 5.7 Durango got that code tooo??
5:00 for the HUH?
Clear as mud right?
He disconnected the wires for the **chicken bock**
I'm not sure if the wiper tray comes off on the Durango as easy as my Dodge Charger. I was able to remove it and replace the sensor without removing the intakes.
ruclips.net/video/ckQ5cUfJtqc/видео.html
Really complex engine I'v ever seen 😐
didntgo
Not one of them actually show you how to do it
Oil Pressure Switch Sockets
www.napaonline.com/en/p/SER2569