Absolutely love BRSTV. You guys have made my journey back into reefing so easy! The last year has been great thanks to you. After leaving the hobby in 2005, I’ve had the most amazing success in a ten gallon nano! My tank 15 years ago was 75 gallons. Time to upgrade and get a bigger tank. Thanks 🙏🏻
Kudos for taking a stand on the nutrient level debate. And I've used Red Slime Remover in the past. It did work within 24hrs. But the slime came right back.
I added two reef friendly starfish to my main display tank on a hunch, cyano on the strata surface began to disappear,not devoured so much as turned up into the water column. Siphoning the bottom,a gyre powerhead and dosing Vibrant over a two month period worked.
Had great success with Brightwell Razor systemic cleaner. Don’t ask me how it works but it got rid of red algae, hair algae, string algae with no negative effects. I did a general tidy and 20% water change before dosing recommended volume. I’ve been adding most days after the recommended treatment.
I hear no mention of silicates in this video -nor any other BRS video I have seen. My understanding is that silicates are the most important growth-limiting compound for cyanobacteria. Tap water is often loaded with silicates -which are very difficult to filter out of tap water- and is the most important reason why a de-ionizer filter is used as the last stage in reverse osmosis systems. The appearance of slime algae in the fish tank may be indicative that the DI canister in the RO system is exhausted and needs replacing. In my experience, high silicates -not phosphate or nitrate- is the cause of slime algae blooms. Love your videos, still.
To get rid of it fast, I turned the lights on only an hour or two a day, during the fish feeding. turned off the lights and put a blanket over the tank for a week. no lights. killed it.
I had cyano 6 months before for 6 month 500 L reef tank but went away by chemiclean. However, after 9 month, Dino came back and treated by Dino X and h2o2and went away. After 2 month, cyano came back. Now cyano take places on rocks only. I am thinking to increase number of fish to increase the P and N to grow more beneficial bacteria than cyano. I am just waiting
Not sure what happened but I used chemiclean a couple of times recently (with lots of water changes in between) and it almost nuked my entire tank both times. Thought it was a fluke the first time when I lost a fish I'd had for 10+ yrs and my SPS started necrotizing, used it again because the slime was back and it killed my second 10 yr old fish and a fire red shrimp . I've used this stuff in the past with zero issue. No idea what happened but I'm devastated
I JUST finished a Chemiclean dose which wiped out the cyano in 3-4 days, after watching this I probably should have used Vibrant or something first. Good maintenance wasn't my issue, no idea what was, but it might have been me wiping out GHA very rapidly which caused something else.
What about blackout method? I am not sure about reef tanks but this worked for me in my planted tanks . Also keep in mind that you can use erythromycin in powder. This old antibiotic kills cyanobacteria in a matter of few days. For me the best procedure was mechanical removing (sand) , blackout 3 days, erythromicyn and increase NO3 (thats a must).
Blackouts can help, but generally speaking, the don't work well enough on their own to rid a saltwater tank of cyano bacteria. You'd need to use something like Chemiclean in conjunction with the black out for a one/two punch.
@@BRStv I am sure you know better since I don't have any previous reef experience. What I wanted to point out is that in general cyanobacteria need a combination of different methods at once . I personally leave chemical treatment last because if you don't succeed that way cyanobacteria return stronger than before.
So I have 135g Red Sea tank. Several years old. Water params spot on, but lately been struggling with cyano just on the sand. I have excellent filtration, maintenace done on a regular basis. The only thing I can possibly pinpoint is feeding the tank 1 cube of frozen mysis 2x a day. In the past I only feels the tank nori for tangs and flake for smaller fish. My experience in the past is seeing cyano breakouts after using frozen product. I try to strain as much as possible to keep thawed water out of tank. Could the bacteria be coming from crappy bacteria water used to pack mysis. Is that worth a vlog for you guys..thoughts? Oh and the reason I’m feeding mysis is for lytlretail Anthias and royal gramma that do better with meaty food.
I have used Chemiclean and killed off all my sps even with skimmer cup off and running and 85 gallon system. A couple years later tried red slime remover and also had sps crash about 11 colonies. This time was in a 280 gallon system, skimmer still running and additional air stone.
My personal experience has been cyano when I've had a gross misbalance of no3/po4. Dosing no3/po4 appropriately resolved the cases I have personally experienced.
@@opethmike I am scared that all of a sudden its going to get crazy high. Wonder if I am getting false readings, I dont have much algae in there for the nutrients to bind with to give me false reading though. Do you think I need to dose nitrates too even though it around 3 now? Isnt it crazy how hard it is to get them down and once you do you cant get them back up? At least thats what happened to me! Iwish i would have nevr used nopox but just relied on a bunch of water changes instead. Nitrates were always good until I added a shit ton of corals at one time! More than likely its cyano since I had an imbalance before when nitrates shot to 80 while phosphates were like 0 or 0.01. That was right before nopox then after nopox is this problem! Its hard to identify since its not red or slimy like cyano or stringy like dinos. Looks like diatoms on sand and front glass but back glass and wavemakers had a heavy coat and just realized its on rocks when I turned the whites up and blues down.
@@opethmike Cyanobacteria is growing like crazy in my refugium ? Is it problem as these cyanobacteria are consuming my nitrate phosphate at very fast rate with chaetto ? My tank is 2 moths old 1 month ago my nitrate was 20 ppm Now it is around 10 ppm Can I harvest cyanobacteria just like chaeto or algae turf scrubbber ?
I never had cyano, used vibrant and now it’s on my rocks . Non on the sand bed I’m pretty sure it’s eating the algae that’s dying off. I remove it , it comes back. My nitrates and phosphates are low so iv started using ati n p and c, i don’t want to dose chemicals but now it’s beginning to drive me insane. I’m not sure whether to just leave it and see if it dies out.
I was always wondering, why elevated nitrate was thought to benefit cyanos. From my understanding it should actually be the opposite because the mega special ability of cyanoes is nitrogen fixation, meaning they don't really need ionic nitrogen species but can get their nitrogen from dissolved air. So in low nitrate scenarios they should do better than nitrate users. This is just an unproven hypothesis, other things migth play a role here, but that's what I was always wondering about.
I just noticed a small patch (3”x3”) in my sump today on one of my marine pure blocks. My system is a little over a year old and I haven’t had cyano since the beginning month or two. The only thing that’s changed and I mean the only thing I’ve changed is that I dosed chaeto grow. Other than that nothing has changed for months. I test alk, po4, no3,weekly and they’ve been 8.4-8.5,.02-.03,~10 all the time. Do you think that the chaeto grow fueled this situation?
In my case, I didn’t have any Cyanobacteria at all until AFTER a few weeks of dosing Vibrant for the first time. I’ve since read on forums that others have experienced this also..So with that known...it seems odd to me to suggest using Vibrant as a treatment for Cyano. Hmm..Interesting.
I have treated my tank many times with cyano products so I am assuming its diatoms. Its gets real bad on the glass and new acrylic frag racks and thats the only spots. Is it normal for glass to need cleaning like every other day? My tank is almost 5 years old though and seems this is new and started when I added a huge 3 tier acrylic rack and two smaller ones because I had so many corals come in. One tank was doing the same thing until the coraline took over frag racks but cant get coraline to grow in this tank! I recently found out LPS mode is low par so can running lower par be the problem! ow much could I safely up my par. its running 3 white and 60 blues low uv and red/green and thats the high point! I have corals coming in that are owed to! Bad timing but some have been owed for years so cant put them off any longer!
Although products like microbacter7 and vibrant can be used to out compete cyano, if the reason you have cyano in the first place is due to low nutrients, then what? Those products contain denitrifying bacteria that aids in processing ammonia, nitrites and nitrates, thus lowering the nutrients available in your system that are already at 0.
Indeed, in my case with a low nutrient nano tank with a moderate cyano outbreak vibrant cleared the way for a lovely Dino infestation. I should have approached differently since the cyano was only on the sandbed and not harming corals. Now that my nano is good I’ve detected cyano in my larger 50 gal. I am now apprehensive of vibrant as once again my nitrates and phosphates are near zero. God I love this hobby! I’m going to up water changes and fight the old fashioned way. “Takes a sip of beer and stares at tank”.
vibrant is actually what started my cyano outbreak. its been months now, and i cant get rid of it... tryied chemi clean and red slime. honestly frustrated. setup has been running for 2 years now so its maturated.
Maybe this is what has happened t o me. I had some kind of outbreak so started dosing 1 x a week 5 ml for 46 gallons and what looked more like diatoms has become snotty! Basically still looks the same but when I try to vacum or pull out with turkey baster since vacuming wasnt working it is now snotty! I passed a coffee filter test and dint reclump so supposed to mean no dinos or cyano! Dont know how reliable that is. It clumps back like crazy in tank but strained and put in a glass under light dosnt reclump Seems to me the coffee filter may have strained out the cyano clumps though and all I am left with is tank water! I am thinking of trying chemiclean but afraid for my corals since light has been stuck on low light for a few weeks!
@@karennation3580 I tried a few things. What I THINK solved my issue was a very specific dose(s) of hydrogen peroxide. This will not really help with cyano, but will absolutely demolish Dinos. For your cyanos you should be fine using some chemiclean, just follow the box instructions and you'll be fine. I've heard some SPS's dont really like it, but most of your LPS should be fine. Mine were. And you know what... if you are worried, just do a half dose and monitor!
@@HammerbiteStudios I tell you what, peroxide killed what was on my rock! I poured it on the rock though and now its just wall and sand bed. Its the weirdest thing I have ever seen! When I watch videos it looks more like diatoms. It dosnt have bubbles like dinos nor is it weblike or snotty in appearance. When trying to get it out the sand is all stuck together with a snotty clear mixture. It always got worse after a water change but last week I could only take out a little because I went weeks in between this time and the vacuuming wasnt working, so I decide to quit and try to suck it out all week with the turkey baster. Right now its not uniformly covering the sand and the walls didint get bad like before but I did do a smaller water change. Maybe I am having some progress with whatever it is. It just dosnt fit the bill for any of them! I also have little balls of what looks like algae in the sand bed so I have been sucking them out and thats when I see the clumping. I cant even see it on the sand bed, just the algae looking tiny balls now but there is a goey stuff kind of attached to the balls like the sand just clumps. Its very hard to explain. because it dosnt fit the bill! If it dosnt get much better soon i will try the chemiclean first then try the peroxide or the method by elegance corasl with bubble scrubbing and dosing peroxide and the bacterias! Thanks for your advice! Glad you won the battle!
Wouldn't vacuuming the cyano off the sand go along way to getting rid of it - at least temporarily... while you look to other things to fix the problem?
That siphon isn't available any longer, but you can easily install a small ball valve on the hose or simply pinch the line to get it to stop siphoning 😀
Also I diss try ChemiClean for cyano. I followed instructions and it did seem to make it go away. However a few weeks later it came back. So perhaps I just need to do a few more repeat doses??
What I went through. I also added powerheads facing the sand. I increased the powerhead to almost max and it would move the sand in the back so much no Cyano in the back but I cant get rid of it in the front so I just stir with a stick daily to not see it. I tried Chemiclean no solution it came back. I just turkey base and stir the sand now haha. I try and focus on the corals the most.
We're running a small Eheim power filter as well as a CPR HOB refugium box 🙂 www.bulkreefsupply.com/medium-aquafuge2-external-hang-on-back-refugium-with-led-ligthing-system-cpr-aquatics.html
for cyno- does lowering white lights help like leaving on for just 5 hours ? if so can i leave whites on or 5 then blue fpr an extra hour - total light time 6 hurs ? I have no corals. thank you!
You probably won't notice much of a difference in terms of the cyano bacteria's foothold within the tank. Your best bet is going to be to either turn the lights off all together (since you don't have any corals and cyanobacteria is photosynthetic) or to use a treatment like chemiclean to quickly knock it back. Of course, there are also more natural biological controls that often work too. Dr. Tim's Refresh and Waste Away are two popular ones to use.
Cyanobacteria is growing like crazy in my refugium ? Is it problem as these cyanobacteria are consuming my nitrate phosphate at very fast rate with chaetto ? My tank is 2 moths old 1 month ago my nitrate was 20 ppm Now it is around 10 ppm Can I harvest cyanobacteria just like chaeto or algae turf scrubbber ?
We would suggest trying to remove the cyano. While it may be helping now, it's also starving out your macro algae and can quickly work it's way to the display tank when conditions are right.
I have blue leg hermits and trochus snails and I still have alage and cyano. Aren’t they supposed to eat algae? And if I treat for algae and eliminate it, aren’t I starving the snails and crabs?
Hermits and snails won't eat cyano, but will eat many types of algae. It's all about keeping a balance within your tank. It's important not to overstock your clean up crew as you'll run into the exact situation you've described of starving them.
During the interview shots what size tank is to the left of the video? I have a 20 high with healthy yet slow sps growth. Its a little over 2 years old and I'm very happy with it. I have small, intermittent gha, red slime, and dino. It goes away commonly and I'm not too concerned. I do have vermitid snails that I absolutely hate. They are the one reason why I dont want to simple scale my 20 gal up to 40g or 60g. So I guess my question is this; can I safely scale my 20g to the size in the video(40-60g) if I cure the extra rock before hand in left over water from wcs? How do I decide whether to start all over or scale up the 20g that I have knowing the small problems I have in it? My goal is to scale up keeping alot of the same equipment I'm using now but giving more room for tangs. Main equipment I don't want to out grow; mp10, octo hob 1000, and 2 kessil 360s ( I would buy one more).
That tank on the left is a standard 40 gallon breeder. If you're upgrading from a 20 to a 40, I'd suggest getting the extra rock you plan to use curing/cycling in a separate container to make the transition easier. You could do this in something as simple as a Brute trash can. Given the small water volume, you shouldn't need a whole lot of extra rock. Likely just 20 lbs or so.
@@BRStv thats what I had hoped it was. It looks like a nice size. Would one mp10 and one kessil 360 be enough? I would still have the turnover from the skimmer.
my 10g clownfish reef never had any issues and it's been 2 weeks since my 120g reef setup has been running with ambient lights only i'll do that for a few months atleast until 1-2 months of good ats harvesting once the ats is purchased and arrived. there is one bothersome thing about my 10g tank tho the rocks are brown they were white but all the spots where the little led in the canopy hit is brown. i assume that is just due to the light it isn't slimy it's big at all it's just like coralline sized like 1-2mm tall but not purple and it is soft not coralline texture. point being, maybe i should dose these hetro bacterial products in my 120g setup have you guys ever tried that just dose the good bacteria occasionally for cyno,dino,algae, photosynthetic bacteria even when there aren't any issues just purely to keep up with a diverse ecosystem that isn't able to reproduce in the tank itself but helps solve issues. doesn't have to be dosed at the recommended stated maybe even as low as 25% of the recommended dose monthly. or would the dosing be too harmful in the long run?
Since your tank is so new, it sounds like you may be dealing with some diatoms. If that's the case, this is normal. You can dose some bacterial products like Vibrant to help out if you want to, but you won't be able to 100% stop this ugly stage. Also keep in mind that your rockwork will never be pure white again as the rocks will "color up."
@@BRStv it's almost 6 months old that is still considered new huh? it doesn't look like diatom blooms it isn't very soft and it's only on places light is hitting on the rocks no where else and water is clear.
Absolutely love BRSTV. You guys have made my journey back into reefing so easy! The last year has been great thanks to you. After leaving the hobby in 2005, I’ve had the most amazing success in a ten gallon nano! My tank 15 years ago was 75 gallons. Time to upgrade and get a bigger tank. Thanks 🙏🏻
Your videos have given me such hope as a new reefer, and are encouraging to keep going!!
Kudos for taking a stand on the nutrient level debate. And I've used Red Slime Remover in the past. It did work within 24hrs. But the slime came right back.
When I started reefing a few years ago, noone knew HOW to get rid of this stuff. Good to see the mystery is finally solved.
I feel frustrated with it. Literally attacking it daily.
I added two reef friendly starfish to my main display tank on a hunch, cyano on the strata surface began to disappear,not devoured so much as turned up into the water column.
Siphoning the bottom,a gyre powerhead and dosing Vibrant over a two month period worked.
Absolutely love these videos , always keeping people in the hobby , thanks 👌🏻
Absolutely correct statement. Have had outbreaks when my nitrates were like five parts per....
How did u handle?
Had great success with Brightwell Razor systemic cleaner. Don’t ask me how it works but it got rid of red algae, hair algae, string algae with no negative effects. I did a general tidy and 20% water change before dosing recommended volume.
I’ve been adding most days after the recommended treatment.
Is it safe for invertebrates and corals? Thanks
I hear no mention of silicates in this video -nor any other BRS video I have seen. My understanding is that silicates are the most important growth-limiting compound for cyanobacteria. Tap water is often loaded with silicates -which are very difficult to filter out of tap water- and is the most important reason why a de-ionizer filter is used as the last stage in reverse osmosis systems. The appearance of slime algae in the fish tank may be indicative that the DI canister in the RO system is exhausted and needs replacing.
In my experience, high silicates -not phosphate or nitrate- is the cause of slime algae blooms.
Love your videos, still.
I do have
bring temperature down and maintain it.. You'll see ;)
To get rid of it fast, I turned the lights on only an hour or two a day, during the fish feeding. turned off the lights and put a blanket over the tank for a week. no lights. killed it.
Is it still gone ?
I had cyano 6 months before for 6 month 500 L reef tank but went away by chemiclean. However, after 9 month, Dino came back and treated by Dino X and h2o2and went away. After 2 month, cyano came back. Now cyano take places on rocks only. I am thinking to increase number of fish to increase the P and N to grow more beneficial bacteria than cyano. I am just waiting
i noticed this after introducing a bio media filter into the sump
Just get a few conches (Strombus alatus). They are great cyanobacteria vacuums
So much great info in your guides!! If using microbactor won’t the skimmer just remove it?
You'll want to temporarily turn your skimmer off when you dose any sort of bacteria in a bottle type product.
Hey BRS thanks for another great video! Do you think that not having a sandbed reduces the risk for cyano?
This can reduce the risk, due to it being easier to prevent detritus buildup in the tank!
Not sure what happened but I used chemiclean a couple of times recently (with lots of water changes in between) and it almost nuked my entire tank both times. Thought it was a fluke the first time when I lost a fish I'd had for 10+ yrs and my SPS started necrotizing, used it again because the slime was back and it killed my second 10 yr old fish and a fire red shrimp . I've used this stuff in the past with zero issue. No idea what happened but I'm devastated
I JUST finished a Chemiclean dose which wiped out the cyano in 3-4 days, after watching this I probably should have used Vibrant or something first. Good maintenance wasn't my issue, no idea what was, but it might have been me wiping out GHA very rapidly which caused something else.
What about blackout method?
I am not sure about reef tanks but this worked for me in my planted tanks .
Also keep in mind that you can use erythromycin in powder. This old antibiotic kills cyanobacteria in a matter of few days.
For me the best procedure was mechanical removing (sand) , blackout 3 days, erythromicyn and increase NO3 (thats a must).
Blackouts can help, but generally speaking, the don't work well enough on their own to rid a saltwater tank of cyano bacteria. You'd need to use something like Chemiclean in conjunction with the black out for a one/two punch.
@@BRStv I am sure you know better since I don't have any previous reef experience.
What I wanted to point out is that in general cyanobacteria need a combination of different methods at once .
I personally leave chemical treatment last because if you don't succeed that way cyanobacteria return stronger than before.
Just what I’m looking for 😎
So I have 135g Red Sea tank. Several years old. Water params spot on, but lately been struggling with cyano just on the sand. I have excellent filtration, maintenace done on a regular basis. The only thing I can possibly pinpoint is feeding the tank 1 cube of frozen mysis 2x a day. In the past I only feels the tank nori for tangs and flake for smaller fish. My experience in the past is seeing cyano breakouts after using frozen product. I try to strain as much as possible to keep thawed water out of tank. Could the bacteria be coming from crappy bacteria water used to pack mysis. Is that worth a vlog for you guys..thoughts? Oh and the reason I’m feeding mysis is for lytlretail Anthias and royal gramma that do better with meaty food.
thanks for the information
I have used Chemiclean and killed off all my sps even with skimmer cup off and running and 85 gallon system. A couple years later tried red slime remover and also had sps crash about 11 colonies. This time was in a 280 gallon system, skimmer still running and additional air stone.
I'll give Ryan all the time he wants
My personal experience has been cyano when I've had a gross misbalance of no3/po4. Dosing no3/po4 appropriately resolved the cases I have personally experienced.
what brand did you use I bought brightwell phospates and hasnt upped them at all!
@@karennation3580 It doesn't happen right away; you're going to have to keep dosing every day for a good while.
@@opethmike I am scared that all of a sudden its going to get crazy high. Wonder if I am getting false readings, I dont have much algae in there for the nutrients to bind with to give me false reading though. Do you think I need to dose nitrates too even though it around 3 now? Isnt it crazy how hard it is to get them down and once you do you cant get them back up? At least thats what happened to me! Iwish i would have nevr used nopox but just relied on a bunch of water changes instead. Nitrates were always good until I added a shit ton of corals at one time! More than likely its cyano since I had an imbalance before when nitrates shot to 80 while phosphates were like 0 or 0.01. That was right before nopox then after nopox is this problem! Its hard to identify since its not red or slimy like cyano or stringy like dinos. Looks like diatoms on sand and front glass but back glass and wavemakers had a heavy coat and just realized its on rocks when I turned the whites up and blues down.
@@opethmike
Cyanobacteria is growing like crazy in my refugium ?
Is it problem as these cyanobacteria are consuming my nitrate phosphate at very fast rate with chaetto ?
My tank is 2 moths old
1 month ago my nitrate was 20 ppm
Now it is around 10 ppm
Can I harvest cyanobacteria just like chaeto or algae turf scrubbber ?
I never had cyano, used vibrant and now it’s on my rocks . Non on the sand bed I’m pretty sure it’s eating the algae that’s dying off. I remove it , it comes back. My nitrates and phosphates are low so iv started using ati n p and c, i don’t want to dose chemicals but now it’s beginning to drive me insane. I’m not sure whether to just leave it and see if it dies out.
I have low nitrate and phosphate and have had a big cyano outbreak.
Agree with you nitrates 3 and phosphates 0.04 but still cyno came on sand bed 😱 not sure if reef feast (over feeding this ) didn’t help 🤷🏻♂️😀🏴
I can back your claim up. I had a very small cyano bloom on a frag plug and I have very low nutrients.
I was always wondering, why elevated nitrate was thought to benefit cyanos. From my understanding it should actually be the opposite because the mega special ability of cyanoes is nitrogen fixation, meaning they don't really need ionic nitrogen species but can get their nitrogen from dissolved air. So in low nitrate scenarios they should do better than nitrate users. This is just an unproven hypothesis, other things migth play a role here, but that's what I was always wondering about.
I just noticed a small patch (3”x3”) in my sump today on one of my marine pure blocks. My system is a little over a year old and I haven’t had cyano since the beginning month or two. The only thing that’s changed and I mean the only thing I’ve changed is that I dosed chaeto grow. Other than that nothing has changed for months. I test alk, po4, no3,weekly and they’ve been 8.4-8.5,.02-.03,~10 all the time. Do you think that the chaeto grow fueled this situation?
I nuked those cyano in my tank with chemiclean. Went away in a couple of days lol
Dosing vibrant for cyano? I’m dealing with cyano after dosing vibrant
In my case, I didn’t have any Cyanobacteria at all until AFTER a few weeks of dosing Vibrant for the first time.
I’ve since read on forums that others have experienced this also..So with that known...it seems odd to me to suggest using Vibrant as a treatment for Cyano. Hmm..Interesting.
Same. used it to get rid of diatoms, then bam, cyano.
Is it just me or do you guys not carry Vibrant anymore?
I have treated my tank many times with cyano products so I am assuming its diatoms. Its gets real bad on the glass and new acrylic frag racks and thats the only spots. Is it normal for glass to need cleaning like every other day? My tank is almost 5 years old though and seems this is new and started when I added a huge 3 tier acrylic rack and two smaller ones because I had so many corals come in. One tank was doing the same thing until the coraline took over frag racks but cant get coraline to grow in this tank! I recently found out LPS mode is low par so can running lower par be the problem! ow much could I safely up my par. its running 3 white and 60 blues low uv and red/green and thats the high point! I have corals coming in that are owed to! Bad timing but some have been owed for years so cant put them off any longer!
Although products like microbacter7 and vibrant can be used to out compete cyano, if the reason you have cyano in the first place is due to low nutrients, then what?
Those products contain denitrifying bacteria that aids in processing ammonia, nitrites and nitrates, thus lowering the nutrients available in your system that are already at 0.
Indeed, in my case with a low nutrient nano tank with a moderate cyano outbreak vibrant cleared the way for a lovely Dino infestation. I should have approached differently since the cyano was only on the sandbed and not harming corals. Now that my nano is good I’ve detected cyano in my larger 50 gal. I am now apprehensive of vibrant as once again my nitrates and phosphates are near zero. God I love this hobby! I’m going to up water changes and fight the old fashioned way. “Takes a sip of beer and stares at tank”.
Cyano hurt my corals So i decided to dose chemiclean it worked but now how can I heal my coral
Chemi Clean is great but man getting it out of a large system is a pain!
vibrant is actually what started my cyano outbreak. its been months now, and i cant get rid of it... tryied chemi clean and red slime. honestly frustrated. setup has been running for 2 years now so its maturated.
Did you solve your issue? Vibrant started my outbreak too.
@@HammerbiteStudios I had the same problem, I used this Cyano recipe and it worked a treat www.drtimsaquatics.com/resources/recipes/
Maybe this is what has happened t o me. I had some kind of outbreak so started dosing 1 x a week 5 ml for 46 gallons and what looked more like diatoms has become snotty! Basically still looks the same but when I try to vacum or pull out with turkey baster since vacuming wasnt working it is now snotty! I passed a coffee filter test and dint reclump so supposed to mean no dinos or cyano! Dont know how reliable that is. It clumps back like crazy in tank but strained and put in a glass under light dosnt reclump Seems to me the coffee filter may have strained out the cyano clumps though and all I am left with is tank water! I am thinking of trying chemiclean but afraid for my corals since light has been stuck on low light for a few weeks!
@@karennation3580 I tried a few things. What I THINK solved my issue was a very specific dose(s) of hydrogen peroxide. This will not really help with cyano, but will absolutely demolish Dinos. For your cyanos you should be fine using some chemiclean, just follow the box instructions and you'll be fine. I've heard some SPS's dont really like it, but most of your LPS should be fine. Mine were. And you know what... if you are worried, just do a half dose and monitor!
@@HammerbiteStudios I tell you what, peroxide killed what was on my rock! I poured it on the rock though and now its just wall and sand bed. Its the weirdest thing I have ever seen! When I watch videos it looks more like diatoms. It dosnt have bubbles like dinos nor is it weblike or snotty in appearance. When trying to get it out the sand is all stuck together with a snotty clear mixture. It always got worse after a water change but last week I could only take out a little because I went weeks in between this time and the vacuuming wasnt working, so I decide to quit and try to suck it out all week with the turkey baster. Right now its not uniformly covering the sand and the walls didint get bad like before but I did do a smaller water change. Maybe I am having some progress with whatever it is. It just dosnt fit the bill for any of them! I also have little balls of what looks like algae in the sand bed so I have been sucking them out and thats when I see the clumping. I cant even see it on the sand bed, just the algae looking tiny balls now but there is a goey stuff kind of attached to the balls like the sand just clumps. Its very hard to explain. because it dosnt fit the bill! If it dosnt get much better soon i will try the chemiclean first then try the peroxide or the method by elegance corasl with bubble scrubbing and dosing peroxide and the bacterias! Thanks for your advice! Glad you won the battle!
Thank you
Wouldn't vacuuming the cyano off the sand go along way to getting rid of it - at least temporarily... while you look to other things to fix the problem?
It will definitely help temporarily, but without solving the root issue or using a cyano treatment, it'll likely be back in a matter of days.
I've seen cyano more than once appear after the nitrate/phosphate ratio was disturbed in the tank.
OK, maybe I'm late to the game...but where did you get that siphon that has a shut off button??
That siphon isn't available any longer, but you can easily install a small ball valve on the hose or simply pinch the line to get it to stop siphoning 😀
Also I diss try ChemiClean for cyano. I followed instructions and it did seem to make it go away. However a few weeks later it came back. So perhaps I just need to do a few more repeat doses??
What I went through. I also added powerheads facing the sand. I increased the powerhead to almost max and it would move the sand in the back so much no Cyano in the back but I cant get rid of it in the front so I just stir with a stick daily to not see it. I tried Chemiclean no solution it came back. I just turkey base and stir the sand now haha. I try and focus on the corals the most.
WARNING: I used chemi clean as directed and it killed two of my large toadstools
In the beginning of the video there is a setup with hang filters do you have a video on this tank?
We're running a small Eheim power filter as well as a CPR HOB refugium box 🙂
www.bulkreefsupply.com/medium-aquafuge2-external-hang-on-back-refugium-with-led-ligthing-system-cpr-aquatics.html
for cyno- does lowering white lights help like leaving on for just 5 hours ? if so can i leave whites on or 5 then blue fpr an extra hour - total light time 6 hurs ? I have no corals. thank you!
You probably won't notice much of a difference in terms of the cyano bacteria's foothold within the tank. Your best bet is going to be to either turn the lights off all together (since you don't have any corals and cyanobacteria is photosynthetic) or to use a treatment like chemiclean to quickly knock it back. Of course, there are also more natural biological controls that often work too. Dr. Tim's Refresh and Waste Away are two popular ones to use.
@@BRStv thank you so much :)
Cyanobacteria is growing like crazy in my refugium ?
Is it problem as these cyanobacteria are consuming my nitrate phosphate at very fast rate with chaetto ?
My tank is 2 moths old
1 month ago my nitrate was 20 ppm
Now it is around 10 ppm
Can I harvest cyanobacteria just like chaeto or algae turf scrubbber ?
We would suggest trying to remove the cyano. While it may be helping now, it's also starving out your macro algae and can quickly work it's way to the display tank when conditions are right.
@@BRStv
Ok sir
I will try to remove it .
I have blue leg hermits and trochus snails and I still have alage and cyano. Aren’t they supposed to eat algae? And if I treat for algae and eliminate it, aren’t I starving the snails and crabs?
Hermits and snails won't eat cyano, but will eat many types of algae. It's all about keeping a balance within your tank. It's important not to overstock your clean up crew as you'll run into the exact situation you've described of starving them.
During the interview shots what size tank is to the left of the video? I have a 20 high with healthy yet slow sps growth. Its a little over 2 years old and I'm very happy with it. I have small, intermittent gha, red slime, and dino. It goes away commonly and I'm not too concerned. I do have vermitid snails that I absolutely hate. They are the one reason why I dont want to simple scale my 20 gal up to 40g or 60g. So I guess my question is this; can I safely scale my 20g to the size in the video(40-60g) if I cure the extra rock before hand in left over water from wcs? How do I decide whether to start all over or scale up the 20g that I have knowing the small problems I have in it? My goal is to scale up keeping alot of the same equipment I'm using now but giving more room for tangs. Main equipment I don't want to out grow; mp10, octo hob 1000, and 2 kessil 360s ( I would buy one more).
That tank on the left is a standard 40 gallon breeder. If you're upgrading from a 20 to a 40, I'd suggest getting the extra rock you plan to use curing/cycling in a separate container to make the transition easier. You could do this in something as simple as a Brute trash can. Given the small water volume, you shouldn't need a whole lot of extra rock. Likely just 20 lbs or so.
@@BRStv thats what I had hoped it was. It looks like a nice size. Would one mp10 and one kessil 360 be enough? I would still have the turnover from the skimmer.
I've used every treatment but in a couple of days after treatment it's back. Just cant get rid of it for good
Do you use a turkey battery to clean your rock daily?
@@pensacolaresident5730 lol, turkeys have batteries?
What is your tank temperature? Do you stay in a warm area? See my comment above.
@@turbocpt1 😂😂😂😂
@ 3:13 is that a lionfish??? what type? kinda want one now
dwarf lion fish 🙂
Hi
Is blue-green cyano the same?
Cyano can pop up in a few different color forms, but most often pink/purple/red in a saltwater tank.
I have cyano in freshwater!!
As you know, cyano isn't unique to saltwater. Just more common in a saltwater tank vs a freshwater system.
@@BRStv yes, the tank was a reef tank before. Sat empty 5 years and cyano somehow lived through the cleaning and setup
I think I have noticed that a carbon source helped in boosting the cyno growth.
Complete your ecosystem, add Munnid Isopods.
The upper level reefer info they don’t want u to know. Cyano is no big deal. The treatments are.
can anyone name all the fish at 2:30?
Looks like some Green Chromis, Lyretail Anthias, Yellow Tang, and Clownfish. :)
Diamond Goby will eat it all in a few days
Interesting. We haven't had the same luck with diamond gobies eating cyano.
@@BRStv I was thinking of getting a diamond goby but woulnt it kill it if it ate some? I have snails dying but think hermits might be killing them!
My cyano is caused by vibrant, Vibrant = cyano
my 10g clownfish reef never had any issues and it's been 2 weeks since my 120g reef setup has been running with ambient lights only i'll do that for a few months atleast until 1-2 months of good ats harvesting once the ats is purchased and arrived.
there is one bothersome thing about my 10g tank tho the rocks are brown they were white but all the spots where the little led in the canopy hit is brown. i assume that is just due to the light it isn't slimy it's big at all it's just like coralline sized like 1-2mm tall but not purple and it is soft not coralline texture.
point being, maybe i should dose these hetro bacterial products in my 120g setup have you guys ever tried that just dose the good bacteria occasionally for cyno,dino,algae, photosynthetic bacteria even when there aren't any issues just purely to keep up with a diverse ecosystem that isn't able to reproduce in the tank itself but helps solve issues. doesn't have to be dosed at the recommended stated maybe even as low as 25% of the recommended dose monthly.
or would the dosing be too harmful in the long run?
Since your tank is so new, it sounds like you may be dealing with some diatoms. If that's the case, this is normal. You can dose some bacterial products like Vibrant to help out if you want to, but you won't be able to 100% stop this ugly stage. Also keep in mind that your rockwork will never be pure white again as the rocks will "color up."
@@BRStv it's almost 6 months old that is still considered new huh?
it doesn't look like diatom blooms it isn't very soft and it's only on places light is hitting on the rocks no where else and water is clear.
Lol people strive for purple coraline but hate cyano. Go figure
Because cyano kills corals.