I had a massive bubble algae outbreak in my new 70 gal build (thousands of the little boogers!) and Vibrant completely wiped it out! I've been in this hobby since the early 80's and I've never seen anything like it. I tried crabs and manually removing them but nothing worked except this. I have an SPS dominated tank but also have some some Zoas and Hammers and no adverse effects to any. It did take about 2 months but I followed the directions and there is not one single bubble in my tank today. I intentionally maintain slightly elevated Phosphate and Nitrate levels and am now dosing Vibrant bi-weekly...no algae anywhere in my tank and even the glass is clean....I'm a believer.
I’m really enjoying this series as I’m trying to get back in the hobby. I had great success with my first tank which was a 30 gallon with no expensive hardware. However, my failure was when I tried to upgrade to a 75 gallon with expensive hardware. It’s always bothered me so now I’m getting ready to jump back in and these videos have been quite helpful.
Hello. I am new to watching brstv team and have been going by the teams vast knowledge . I have been in the hobby over 2 years now and have a 22 gallon aquarium. I started coral over a year ago and was told buy a light and put coral in. Well needless to say I spend forty or so dollars on a light and buy a five pound piece of live rock with these little flower looking kind that would open up. Well six months months in to having that, I had no coral or no live rock. I used coral amion with in six months I had green algae every where. I discovered your channel six months ago and have improved greatly. I have four coral total. I have about seven pounds of dry an life rock. I had ten pounds total but could not get the flow right. I bought to big of a wave maker when guy at the local fish store told me to get the small one. So I took out three pounds of life rock. I took the wave maker out and the corals have improved. My mini feather duster is not blowing side ways any more. I have two a80 tuna blue lights. I recently got a second a80 and it came with a different mini goosenecks. Well needless to say , the one that is metal chipped where it's in the water so the light manufacturer said I may have some aluminum. Kessil is sending a new one and should be here soon. I have the spectral controller x. Set a program and been watching it go. My ammonia was zero on Sunday as well as zero nitrites. Seven nitrates. Phosphate 0.06 on the hanna instrument. Calcium at 290. 10.4dkh. 2000 magnesium. Ph 8.3 since switching to rodi from a 7.6. I learned rodi was way to go about a month ago. I am not sure what else to test for. My corals are falling over when the lights go out and only extending half way. I am tired of them suffering. I am not sure for to adjust my protein skimmer/hang on filter. I do bi-weekly twenty percent water changes. I run rox 0.8 carbon. I am not sure what to do at this point but I am not giving up. I have two fancy clown fish and some sort of blenny. My temperature has been a steady 78 decrees for over three months now. I am not sure what to do and any advice would be awesome. I am sticking to what advice the Brstv team offers. Hoping this comment sparks some help. Thank you.
I'm always scraping algae off my live rocks and sifting the sand manually. I have no reef but I have clowns and snails and I really want to get rid of the algae on my substrate
We decided to have a shot of Vodka and vodka dose ourselves every time you say the word algae, 28 shots later I feel sick - jokes aside, really informative the fluconazole has worked well with my dads system on bryopsis algae
Is it safe to use Vibrant once a week and MB7 a couple of times a week as well? I was using mb7 about 3 times a week and then I bought a big bottle of vibrant and its expensive as hell so hate to go to waste. I have dosed Vibrant a few days ago and last nigh mb7 and so far so good, only problem is my nutrients are very low so afraid these may lower them more. I cant seem to get phosphates up from zero even though I am dosing it as well! Plus over feeding and cant get nitrates up from2, or should I just leave it alone at 2? I do have what looks like heavy diatoms because its not stringy or slimy! I always had very low phosphates and had high nitrates for a short while b4 nopox!
What equipment are you running on that 40 breeder and do you have a video breakdown on it? Any links to the website on the gear and is also appreciated. That hang on back looks cool.
We don't have a video specifically on the equipment, but here is a link to that playlist. We have videos covering the individual topics like lighting, skimmers, heaters, etc. ruclips.net/p/PLBaMLrfToJyxJ1PuJZwhkxvvdFP14eV_t
We usually use the Python water change system here at BRS. Here is a link if you wanted to check it out. Just remember, the smaller diameter hose you use, the stronger the suction will be 🙂 www.bulkreefsupply.com/python-no-spill-water-change-system.html
@@michaellash4050 Fucking weird, my last name is Lash. I have literally never met another Lash. Anyway, I've done 2 90% water changes in the last month, get nitrates down to 15~, but dispite chaeto growing, and biopellets, and an oversized skimmer it gets to around 40 rpm in a couple weeks. I have 4 small fish, + a 4" tang and 4" foxface. Feed a cube a week, + half a sheet of Nori every other day. My Po4 keeps bottoming out, I have to dose Po4 to keep it around .05~. I think that imbalance might be my problem.
I think the problem is feeding frozen. Frozen foods pollute aquariums even when lite feeding. I would try rinsing the frozen cube with saltwater to get rid of excess nutrients.
Adding to tang gang it's mollies. They can be easily acclimate to full saltwater and suitable to basically any size of tank. The only fish in that small size that eats algae in saltwater.
@@zsxking I have an empty freshwater tank because my betta died yesterday. So do I take out some fresh and gradually add salt over a period of a few days? Do you need more than one molly for them to be happy?
@@karennation3580 that's about the way to do it. The number of mollies doesn't matter much. But I usually acclimate several in one go, cause it takes a while to do so.
I got Dinoflagellates from my dosing with Vibrant. Doesn't seem fair that it takes a long time to get rid of dinos but a short time for them to stress and kill coral. But i guess that's the struggle right?
What I want to see is a sure-fire way to eliminate dinoflagellates. I battled them for years and did everything available under the sun before finally exiting the hobby. If theres ever a cure for that, I’m right back in.
I have this white fuzzy stuff that grows on my frag plugs on my goniopora and my favia idk what it’s i touched. It and it feels fuzzy and it looks like cotton almost but I was able to scrub it off with a tooth brush can someone help me figure out what it is
I had something similar grow in a dark part of my tank underneath a frag. It was like a white sponge coral thing it was slowly growing. I took a part of it out when I moved that frag and I left it alone. Still there in its own little spot hasn’t overgrown
@@BRStv thanks. I'm down to just corals left in my tank but I am redoubling my efforts. I don't feed the corals - just give them 8 hours of light a day. I also have left the shades drawn for months. I added a Innovative Marine Bioskim DC Protein Skimmer and also bought a Hanna ULR Nitrite and Hanna ULR Phosphate checkers. I added a Hydor Koralia 240 gph powerhead. I also removed the rock that was taken over and put new rock in. I am going to try the hydrogen peroxide dip that BRS recommended on the last piece of live rock in the tank. I switch out two packets of chemipure nano packets each month and replace the filter sock. One thing I thought of is to add a small media reactor in the tank with GFO in it like the Aquamaxx FR-S Media Reactor.
@@BRStv I ended up dipping 2 zoa frags with bryopsis infestation in 3% H2O2 for couple of minutes few days ago. Zoas are happy/open and bryopsis all melted =)
Well, I have a tang gang, 5X yellows, 1 X 13” vlamingi, 6” clown tang and a 5” scopes. Lot’s of hermits, emerald crabs, snakes and an urchin. I’m running NoPox, have a big old euro reef skimmer and a 13 gallon refugium under a 165W light meant for growing pot but still I have this stubborn turf algae. I manually remove and directly apply 12% H2O2 with a titration syringe to the base of the algae patches about once a week. I just started vibrant but I things I’m just going to live with it :(. There are worse pests to have. I already have 8 tangs ranging from 4” to 13”. L-BI058_1_M
This ugly phase has me about to throw in the towel. First I had diatoms, which ended up being no big deal at all in retrospect. It was gone in days. Then I bought a hammer frag from a tank with some GHA in it and since then things have been rough. I started getting dinos and large algae blooms in the water column. My nitrates had plummeted from a stable 15 to 0. After a month or so of letting the tank get dirty, feeding more and shortening the photoperiod from 10 hours to 6 my nitrates slowly rose to 8 and have stayed there. Dino’s started to fade. Yahoo! Then GHA took over. I’ve been manually removing it and my Tailspot blenny and crabs have been picking at it, but I can’t seem to keep up. Now I also have a couple small patches of cyano and some stuff that forms bubbles at night time, perhaps a new strain of Dino’s. I’ve been doing weekly water changes, my bio load is fairly low and my coral have been doing good now that the water column blooms and Dino’s have subsided. I’ve tried adding bacterial supplements. My QT that uses the same water, has been up and running for just as long as the DT and gets more sunlight has had none of these issues. It seems the frag was the source of all of it?
The first year of a saltwater aquarium, especially the 6-12 month range, is always the hardest. Keep testing your nitrates/phosphates looking for trends. As long as they're not zero, keep doing your water changes and manually pulling out as much algae as you can. Consider adding a blue tuxedo urchin or tang (depending on your tank size) to help. Phosphates can contribute to algae growth, but in most cases, you don't have an algae problem...you have a lack of herbivores problem. Herbivores won't completely solve an algae problem that is already out of hand, but combined with your manual removal and persistence, you'll be able to get ahead of it 💪
In my personal experience, I would not recommend following the advice starting at 6:18! I have 100% seen even 3% hydrogen peroxide turn SPS white and dead within minutes of contact. Additionally, uncontrolled (spraying large areas) application of hydrogen peroxide dumped into the water will cause you a ton of trouble - at least (once again) in my experience. Photos available on request lol
Yeah sps, is a no no. Most softies will tolerate it just fine tho. I've dipped pretty much all my zoa's in hydorgen peroxide and they all do just fine. If you can remove rocks treating outside the tank, scrubbing with h202 and rinsing is going to be extremely effective but can always cause rebound problems.
try to think a step ahead, all the time. so if you are planning to kill algae, plan what's going to happen after it's gone... will it release nutrients? if it does, what's going to take those nutrients? if no nutrients, good
My kole tang sucks and doesn't do much except nip at film algae. Ulva came out of nowhere after wiping it out, along with massive GHA outbreak, and my tang just farts around wanting nori and mysis. And slashing my clownfish with his spine.
Ru’s ReefTank I second. I didn’t know this and lost a huge portion of chaeto. Not that big of a deal but it’s been 2 months and it is still not growing.
I recommend removing a algae covered rock to a bucket during a water change, apply hydrogen peroxide and scrub, rinse with the water from the tank and return to the system.
Unfortunately, snails usually won't touch hair algae, so manual removal during your water changes will help quite a bit. Also, getting an aggressive eating herbivore in the tank can help. Tangs for larger tanks or pincushion or tuxedo urchins for smaller (or larger) tanks.
Research, research, and more research in the meantime. Getting a job at a local fish store may also give you a chance to get involved in the hobby without actually owning a tank. Most fish store owners are happy to train someone willing to learn :)
I had a massive bubble algae outbreak in my new 70 gal build (thousands of the little boogers!) and Vibrant completely wiped it out! I've been in this hobby since the early 80's and I've never seen anything like it. I tried crabs and manually removing them but nothing worked except this. I have an SPS dominated tank but also have some some Zoas and Hammers and no adverse effects to any. It did take about 2 months but I followed the directions and there is not one single bubble in my tank today. I intentionally maintain slightly elevated Phosphate and Nitrate levels and am now dosing Vibrant bi-weekly...no algae anywhere in my tank and even the glass is clean....I'm a believer.
Did you keep chaeto in your system ? Do you know if vibrant will kill sump chaeto too ?
Seo Specialist ..
I don’t have Chaeto in my system.
Chris Hetlage when I’ve tried Vibrant it just gave my tank cyano. Why do you think this happened?
InstaBlaster...
Vibrant destroyed my tank. I've heard mixed results from it, glad it worked for you though!
This is amazing. Incredibly informative and superbly presented. Thank you for making this! 🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼
Great video. One thing not mentioned, many of those treatment chemicals will kill off macro in the sump too. Same story with GFO usually.
firebirdude2 what’s macro?
@@Eunos_FD3S Macroalgae. Chaetomorpha, Sea Lettuce, or Ogo.
I’m really enjoying this series as I’m trying to get back in the hobby. I had great success with my first tank which was a 30 gallon with no expensive hardware. However, my failure was when I tried to upgrade to a 75 gallon with expensive hardware. It’s always bothered me so now I’m getting ready to jump back in and these videos have been quite helpful.
Hello. I am new to watching brstv team and have been going by the teams vast knowledge . I have been in the hobby over 2 years now and have a 22 gallon aquarium. I started coral over a year ago and was told buy a light and put coral in. Well needless to say I spend forty or so dollars on a light and buy a five pound piece of live rock with these little flower looking kind that would open up. Well six months months in to having that, I had no coral or no live rock. I used coral amion with in six months I had green algae every where. I discovered your channel six months ago and have improved greatly. I have four coral total. I have about seven pounds of dry an life rock. I had ten pounds total but could not get the flow right. I bought to big of a wave maker when guy at the local fish store told me to get the small one. So I took out three pounds of life rock. I took the wave maker out and the corals have improved. My mini feather duster is not blowing side ways any more. I have two a80 tuna blue lights. I recently got a second a80 and it came with a different mini goosenecks. Well needless to say , the one that is metal chipped where it's in the water so the light manufacturer said I may have some aluminum. Kessil is sending a new one and should be here soon. I have the spectral controller x. Set a program and been watching it go. My ammonia was zero on Sunday as well as zero nitrites. Seven nitrates. Phosphate 0.06 on the hanna instrument. Calcium at 290. 10.4dkh. 2000 magnesium. Ph 8.3 since switching to rodi from a 7.6. I learned rodi was way to go about a month ago. I am not sure what else to test for. My corals are falling over when the lights go out and only extending half way. I am tired of them suffering. I am not sure for to adjust my protein skimmer/hang on filter. I do bi-weekly twenty percent water changes. I run rox 0.8 carbon. I am not sure what to do at this point but I am not giving up. I have two fancy clown fish and some sort of blenny. My temperature has been a steady 78 decrees for over three months now. I am not sure what to do and any advice would be awesome. I am sticking to what advice the Brstv team offers. Hoping this comment sparks some help. Thank you.
i'm here cause its always a good rule of thumb to keep sharp on things to do and not to do, no matter what level in reef keeping you are :)
I'm always scraping algae off my live rocks and sifting the sand manually. I have no reef but I have clowns and snails and I really want to get rid of the algae on my substrate
stiring the sand bed often should help
I've got just clowns and snails I found since I've added some easy soft corals the algae has got better
Add copepods to your tank, they are wee beasties that eat algae and other ugly phases.
Also consider a diamond goby, who will clean your sand as well.
Really surprised you haven’t updated this video yet. Recommending Vibrant should be stricken from anyones advice due to the false advertising.
Can i ask why please....?
Why
@@jacklawer6389it was proven to be an unreported algaecide. It shouldn’t even be on the shelves.
We decided to have a shot of Vodka and vodka dose ourselves every time you say the word algae, 28 shots later I feel sick - jokes aside, really informative the fluconazole has worked well with my dads system on bryopsis algae
Is it safe to use Vibrant once a week and MB7 a couple of times a week as well? I was using mb7 about 3 times a week and then I bought a big bottle of vibrant and its expensive as hell so hate to go to waste. I have dosed Vibrant a few days ago and last nigh mb7 and so far so good, only problem is my nutrients are very low so afraid these may lower them more. I cant seem to get phosphates up from zero even though I am dosing it as well! Plus over feeding and cant get nitrates up from2, or should I just leave it alone at 2? I do have what looks like heavy diatoms because its not stringy or slimy! I always had very low phosphates and had high nitrates for a short while b4 nopox!
Me when I see algae in my reef: it’s time to go pick up 14 bottles of hydrogen peroxide
Me: Grabs the chlorine from the pool...
What equipment are you running on that 40 breeder and do you have a video breakdown on it? Any links to the website on the gear and is also appreciated. That hang on back looks cool.
We don't have a video specifically on the equipment, but here is a link to that playlist. We have videos covering the individual topics like lighting, skimmers, heaters, etc.
ruclips.net/p/PLBaMLrfToJyxJ1PuJZwhkxvvdFP14eV_t
Great info
Will the hydrogen peroxide affect the refugium?
When you are sucking all the algea off the rocks, how are you getting the much suction? Is it a Diy vac, or just a normal gravity syphon?
We usually use the Python water change system here at BRS. Here is a link if you wanted to check it out. Just remember, the smaller diameter hose you use, the stronger the suction will be 🙂
www.bulkreefsupply.com/python-no-spill-water-change-system.html
Tang Gang is a rap group with Atlantic ocean records
What kind of algae was shown at 4:50? I have it on my rock…..unfortunately can’t remove because it’s epoxy’d together.
Currently fighting one via nutrient control 👍🏾
I'm fighting nitrates. Can't keep them down. Have Chaeto growing, biopellets. Feed 1 cube every week.
Im in the opposite i cant keep them above 0 lol
@@michaellash4050 Fucking weird, my last name is Lash. I have literally never met another Lash. Anyway, I've done 2 90% water changes in the last month, get nitrates down to 15~, but dispite chaeto growing, and biopellets, and an oversized skimmer it gets to around 40 rpm in a couple weeks. I have 4 small fish, + a 4" tang and 4" foxface. Feed a cube a week, + half a sheet of Nori every other day. My Po4 keeps bottoming out, I have to dose Po4 to keep it around .05~. I think that imbalance might be my problem.
I think the problem is feeding frozen. Frozen foods pollute aquariums even when lite feeding. I would try rinsing the frozen cube with saltwater to get rid of excess nutrients.
.
First I couldnt keep them down and now I cant keep them up following nopox! Works wonders to lower!
Adding to tang gang it's mollies. They can be easily acclimate to full saltwater and suitable to basically any size of tank. The only fish in that small size that eats algae in saltwater.
Do you just acclimate them like any saltwater fish! I love mollys anyway!
@@karennation3580 Usually acclimate them over period of 2 to 3 days from freshwater to full saltwater.
@@zsxking I have an empty freshwater tank because my betta died yesterday. So do I take out some fresh and gradually add salt over a period of a few days? Do you need more than one molly for them to be happy?
@@karennation3580 that's about the way to do it. The number of mollies doesn't matter much. But I usually acclimate several in one go, cause it takes a while to do so.
Now that there's all that gear hanging on the 40gal, how do you cover it to prevent jumpers?
Red Sea makes a great DIY screen top kit with optional cut outs for equipment like this 😃
What is that big filter hanging off the back of that tank
I got Dinoflagellates from my dosing with Vibrant. Doesn't seem fair that it takes a long time to get rid of dinos but a short time for them to stress and kill coral. But i guess that's the struggle right?
I hear s many horror stories of this stuff! May just flush this 40 dollar botttle down the drain and go back to MB7!
@@karennation3580 I went back to MB7 and my Dino problem is almost gone. MB7 and regular water changes + a baggie of phosban works great for me.
What would be recomended for a tang gang in a 94 gallons tank?
A couple of tangs would certainly do the trick! :)
What I want to see is a sure-fire way to eliminate dinoflagellates. I battled them for years and did everything available under the sun before finally exiting the hobby. If theres ever a cure for that, I’m right back in.
The cure is letting other algae out compete it. You need to up your nitrate and phosphate and the dino will go away
אלוף
I have this white fuzzy stuff that grows on my frag plugs on my goniopora and my favia idk what it’s i touched. It and it feels fuzzy and it looks like cotton almost but I was able to scrub it off with a tooth brush can someone help me figure out what it is
I had something similar grow in a dark part of my tank underneath a frag. It was like a white sponge coral thing it was slowly growing. I took a part of it out when I moved that frag and I left it alone. Still there in its own little spot hasn’t overgrown
this is me. I'm battling GHA in my 10 gallon nano
Don't give up! GHA can be a pain, but it can be beaten! :)
@@BRStv thanks. I'm down to just corals left in my tank but I am redoubling my efforts. I don't feed the corals - just give them 8 hours of light a day. I also have left the shades drawn for months. I added a Innovative Marine Bioskim DC Protein Skimmer and also bought a Hanna ULR Nitrite and Hanna ULR Phosphate checkers. I added a Hydor Koralia 240 gph powerhead. I also removed the rock that was taken over and put new rock in. I am going to try the hydrogen peroxide dip that BRS recommended on the last piece of live rock in the tank. I switch out two packets of chemipure nano packets each month and replace the filter sock. One thing I thought of is to add a small media reactor in the tank with GFO in it like the Aquamaxx FR-S Media Reactor.
Will fluconazole kill other macro algae? I have dragon's breath in my sump as nutrient export...
Caulerpa and Bryopsis are the two big ones. We've not tried it on a refugium with Dragon's Breath, but we've not heard of any issues either.
@@BRStv I ended up dipping 2 zoa frags with bryopsis infestation in 3% H2O2 for couple of minutes few days ago. Zoas are happy/open and bryopsis all melted =)
Well, I have a tang gang, 5X yellows, 1 X 13” vlamingi, 6” clown tang and a 5” scopes. Lot’s of hermits, emerald crabs, snakes and an urchin. I’m running NoPox, have a big old euro reef skimmer and a 13 gallon refugium under a 165W light meant for growing pot but still I have this stubborn turf algae. I manually remove and directly apply 12% H2O2 with a titration syringe to the base of the algae patches about once a week. I just started vibrant but I things I’m just going to live with it :(. There are worse pests to have. I already have 8 tangs ranging from 4” to 13”.
L-BI058_1_M
ruclips.net/video/gf_LBs_kcVY/видео.html
Ok im getting algae issues right after i beat dinos (tank is follow so the feeding is not the issue) how do i approach this?
raise nitrates
This ugly phase has me about to throw in the towel.
First I had diatoms, which ended up being no big deal at all in retrospect. It was gone in days.
Then I bought a hammer frag from a tank with some GHA in it and since then things have been rough. I started getting dinos and large algae blooms in the water column. My nitrates had plummeted from a stable 15 to 0. After a month or so of letting the tank get dirty, feeding more and shortening the photoperiod from 10 hours to 6 my nitrates slowly rose to 8 and have stayed there. Dino’s started to fade. Yahoo!
Then GHA took over. I’ve been manually removing it and my Tailspot blenny and crabs have been picking at it, but I can’t seem to keep up. Now I also have a couple small patches of cyano and some stuff that forms bubbles at night time, perhaps a new strain of Dino’s.
I’ve been doing weekly water changes, my bio load is fairly low and my coral have been doing good now that the water column blooms and Dino’s have subsided.
I’ve tried adding bacterial supplements.
My QT that uses the same water, has been up and running for just as long as the DT and gets more sunlight has had none of these issues. It seems the frag was the source of all of it?
Should I just stay the course? Tank has been up and running for ~7 months but only stocked for around 5.5
The first year of a saltwater aquarium, especially the 6-12 month range, is always the hardest. Keep testing your nitrates/phosphates looking for trends. As long as they're not zero, keep doing your water changes and manually pulling out as much algae as you can.
Consider adding a blue tuxedo urchin or tang (depending on your tank size) to help. Phosphates can contribute to algae growth, but in most cases, you don't have an algae problem...you have a lack of herbivores problem. Herbivores won't completely solve an algae problem that is already out of hand, but combined with your manual removal and persistence, you'll be able to get ahead of it 💪
Thank you for the encouragement! It’s a 25 gallon so maybe I’ll consider getting an urchin temporarily to give me a “one up” on the algae.
What about the 3-4 day blackout method. Would you say that's a proven method ?
For certain types of problems, yes. For algae like hair, turf, or bryopsis, not so much.
I have a 20 gallon and I only have 10 minutes a day to interact with the tank. What do you recommend?
debra wurl a new hobby
Get rid of it!
Freshwater
10 minutes a day?
does cowries and sea hares eat bryopsis ? i see so many people on youtube talking about that.
Is it wise to run GFO and have chaeto growing as well?
Michael Lash thank you Mike, so you would suggest the chaeto over a reactor for preventative? My phos arnt high, just want to keep it that way
Ok thank you!
GFO in a reactor is likely going to kill your chaeto. GFO does its job damn well.
We tend not to, as GFO can strip that water, which would kill the chaeto!
chaeto n fuge are natural approaches n more economical than having to rely on gfo. imho, gfo is for emergency or supplemental type situations.
In my personal experience, I would not recommend following the advice starting at 6:18! I have 100% seen even 3% hydrogen peroxide turn SPS white and dead within minutes of contact. Additionally, uncontrolled (spraying large areas) application of hydrogen peroxide dumped into the water will cause you a ton of trouble - at least (once again) in my experience. Photos available on request lol
Yeah sps, is a no no. Most softies will tolerate it just fine tho. I've dipped pretty much all my zoa's in hydorgen peroxide and they all do just fine. If you can remove rocks treating outside the tank, scrubbing with h202 and rinsing is going to be extremely effective but can always cause rebound problems.
Everytime I get rid of one algea another type appears what am I doing wrong
try to think a step ahead, all the time. so if you are planning to kill algae, plan what's going to happen after it's gone... will it release nutrients? if it does, what's going to take those nutrients? if no nutrients, good
Can't find Vibrant for Reefs only Salt Water fish only.
My kole tang sucks and doesn't do much except nip at film algae.
Ulva came out of nowhere after wiping it out, along with massive GHA outbreak, and my tang just farts around wanting nori and mysis.
And slashing my clownfish with his spine.
Tang gang = Ich magnets
Quarantine = ich killers
Will vibrant kill my Chaeto in my reef aquarium sump?For bubble algae?
Yes, Vibrant WILL completely destroy your chaeto.
Ru’s ReefTank
I second. I didn’t know this and lost a huge portion of chaeto. Not that big of a deal but it’s been 2 months and it is still not growing.
It can! It is wise to remove, or watch this during treatment. Many have had no ill effect though.
definitely gonna have to get a tang tang into my reef
Problem is 9 out of 10 times they get ick and die once moved around that's why I don't buy them they're very prone to catching it
If i feed even less than im doing now my fish will die! ive also shothened the light period in my tank and im going ad it almost 1,5 years 😥
I recommend removing a algae covered rock to a bucket during a water change, apply hydrogen peroxide and scrub, rinse with the water from the tank and return to the system.
Do I continue with regular water changes when dosing???
Yes, continue with your regular water change schedule unless otherwise noted on the particular product you're using.
What would be recommended for a Tang Gang?
Ultimately it depends on tank size, but some of our favorites include yellow tangs and any bristletooth tangs like kole or tomini tangs.
I just beat cyano, and now gha took over :( my snails are not doing anything about it.
Unfortunately, snails usually won't touch hair algae, so manual removal during your water changes will help quite a bit. Also, getting an aggressive eating herbivore in the tank can help. Tangs for larger tanks or pincushion or tuxedo urchins for smaller (or larger) tanks.
I keep having algae grow on my corals and then they die from not opening, how do I fix this? Peroxide dips don’t work
More flow on them
F@&k Bryopsis! Can i get an amen!?
What about the 1% that plans on getting a reef tank but can’t until college because their parents won’t let them
Research, research, and more research in the meantime. Getting a job at a local fish store may also give you a chance to get involved in the hobby without actually owning a tank. Most fish store owners are happy to train someone willing to learn :)
Lol just up magnesium to 1600ppm
you talk too much and keep repeating yourself on what you already said!!!!!😢