Get rid of algae, cyano, dinoflagellates and tank pests...once and for all! ➡ brs.li/BRStv_Beat_Algae Top Reefing Mistakes EVERYONE makes. Learn from ours! ➡ brs.li/BRStv_TopReefing_Mistakes
Ten+ years of learning in one short video. Pay attention folks this is gonna help you! All of it is relevant and it works. Its that simple. I've never tried vibrant but ill go watch the dedicated series! TY BRS
After having a 150 g tank for 10 years and being in the hobby since 1985 we decided to downside so I started from scratch setting up a 60 g cube. Having not start3d a new tank in over 10 years I decided to simply follow program outlined earlier this year on BRS. It’s now been 8 months since I setup the tank. We went through a very short ‘ugly phase’ of about 5 weeks with some algae growth but pretty much non existent. I’ve then simply been waiting patiently with just half a dozen fish transferee from my old tank as well as half a dozen bubble tips I also transferred. No additions, just letting the system stabilize. Yesterday while doing the weekly gravel cleaning I noticed a bunch of purple sots on the rccks! The system is now ready to add my first corals. Bottom line: simply follow the advise given here and you too can have a beautiful, algae free mixed reef tank! Thx BRS!
so glad you mentioned putting tangs in smaller tanks ive been telling some friends for years that you can but when they get too big you have to be able to let them go or trade them.
I can’t even begin to tell you how much valuable knowledge I gain every time I watch one of your videos, especially this one, and I can’t begin to tell you how much I appreciate your efforts! BRS is all a beginning or pro reefer needs to be successful! Bravo as always, my friends! BRAVO!!
Oh My Sweet Lord! I should not have been allowed to try saltwater without being forced to watch this video first! I am a fan of small videos quick fixes and short answers but this video put me in my place as a beginner ready to give up on saltwater all together this video saved my tank thank you guys so much I would hug you if I could!!!
After reefing for a decade, I’ve worked out algae turf scrubbers are your best friend. I run mine 16 hours a day using a 15w grow led for my 150 gal. And it’s made out of a large lunchbox lol cheap and effective. All my cyano and hair algae all grows out of sight, I don’t bother with a skimmer, just run an air stone for oxygenation. And yes a tang :)
Years ago I had a reef tank with a big hair algae problem so I went to the ocean in FL (sebastian inlet) and picked a sea urchin out of the tide pools. It was a black one. It licked that problem in a few weeks. In a few months it reproduced and there were urchins in all the nooks and cranies of the rocks. From that point forward the coraline algae took over and the hair algae was gone. The urchins didn't mess with any of the corals and they made the tank beautiful.
About Bryopsis and Magnesium: back in the days the idea was not to dose Mg to raise its level, but to dose *Kent Marine Magnesium*, because supposedly it had a component that killed bryopsis. It was that one and that one only that people used.
I've used this method for years, dose Kent Magnesium daily, I don't have Bryopsis in my display or sump. Unfortunately it doesn't keep other algae from growing.
Peroxide is typically 3% peroxide and the rest is distilled water. So when you dip in peroxide you're also doing a freshwater dip, which helps a lot with pest 👍
Also found out when u take the rock out of the tank and spay it. Bristle worms will come running out. But do it to too much rock n ur bacteria will be messed up. So I'd only do it under certain circumstances
I agree 100% with Manual Removal. It sucks, it can be messy and time consuming but it really is the best way. Get as much out as you can. Also, I sprayed my rock with H2O2 to kill the fine bits. Then keep those nutrients balanced and DON'T LET THEM HIT ZERO. All tanks are different but my N03 is 12ppm and P04 is 0.08. Almost zero algae in my DT, corals are healthy, and my chaeto stays healthy.
Just an fyi, hydrogen peroxide (3%) often uses pyrophosphoric acid as a stabilizer. Spraying it directly into your tank could cause bigger problem than it solves. Test your H2O2 first with a phosphate test kit. You may need to first degrade the H2O2 by adding some rust (iron oxide) to the sample you want to test and leave it overnight.
you should add the % of hydrogen peroxide in the video, maybe i missed it but i think it wasn't noted. But just to prevent people from using 35% H2O2 (which i have lying around my house for example).
Great tips! Interesting. I recently glued a new zoa cluster on a small rock ..and the rock is growing small patches of green film algae. Even though I removed the plug. Guessing there was algae within the zoas? Next illnuse hydrogen peroxide for sure..or brush the rock with it. Cheers
Doing a water change is exactly the same of living in a house and opening the widows. Fresh stuff comes in, the bio sphere has a breath of fresh air. I swear by water changes.
I live in Florida, so I use natural sea water that I pump myself. Only at high tide, clean water. I know it’s full of nutrients, but I have had a tank that will not get rid of algae. I have 4 tanks, do all the same water in each when I do my changes 1 has the problem. Started with regular soft algae, I used reeflux a few times and that did it for a few months then boom came back. I collect hermits, snails, and urchins but they die off only in this tank. All levels are zero. Finally got the algae down but it has now turned into a diatom brown colored strain that when you touch it it like melts. Lights are down to 4 hours for last 6 months, all levels are zero. I’ve been used phosban after water changes and that seems to help but after a few weeks it just returns. Has a 100gal G series skimmer that works great. Most corals look good but anemones don’t. I can’t figure out what the problem is, only thing I haven’t tried is the hydrogen peroxide in there or the bacteria. What would you suggest?
#7 Fish are absolutely part of my cleanup crew, but I have a 200 gallon reef, so tangs make a little more sense, I also have a 40G breeder (not connected) and tangs absolutely are NOT part of that clean up crew, tank is just too small for that and I'm not going to pull the "well I'll just rehome it"/"I'm going to get a bigger tank"/"I'll sell it back to the LFS" angle for this #8 get banded trochus snails, they will spawn in your tank, and then don't have to worry about "replacing" your clean up crew.
Thank you guys for the information provided . What I like the most is you state the problem , explain the reason it happens and then you give all the possible solutions . I am new to the hobby and I have learned so much from your tutorials . Thank you !!
I used H2O2 - but it destroyed my torch. I pulled the rock out, used a turkey baster on the algae, rinsed in salt water then put it back in the tank along with a 25% water change. Torch died over about 4 days
Im new to saltwater...maybe 3 weeks in...i bought a used 16 gal Biocube setup with two clowns in it...transfered it to my home with the same water originally in it...over course of the last few weeks ive been checking the salinity and doing test strips, everything has remainded nomimal...I havent done a routine water change yet and i wasnt sure how to set the moon lights and day lights so I watched video on how to set those times...I believe Ive got them coming on around 9 am and going off by 10 pm...ive started adding a few fish over the past week or so, a Damsel, a bi color angel and several clean up crew...snails, crabs, a lawnmower blenny, a goby and a pistol shrimp...ive noticed over the past few days my sand is turning red and also getring some red hairy blotches on the rocks...also some green hair algae going on...what would anyone suggest? Cutting down the light times? Water change? Dosing for algae?
Definitely time to start getting on a regular water change schedule. Since your tank is so small, weekly water changes will be a solid choice. During your water change, try to manually pull as much hair algae out as you can. You'll also want to keep tabs on your phosphate levels.
Dinos are a different breed too (if you consider them an algae). They require different remedies. Dinos actually thrive at zero phosphates and nitrates. I ended up having to use Dino X, black out the tank for 5 days AND run a 55 watt UV sterilizer. At the time I only had 2 corals in the tank, and both died in the process. But they would have died anyway with the way the Dinos had taken over.
First off, I appreciate all your work to bring sooo much knowledge to the hobby. My question, Is it me or does Randy mispronounce certain words? Like plague or utilitarian. 🤷🏼♂️ This is in no way meant to be hateful.
It's not that you can't use both simultaneously, but rather we should expect some sort of reaction to all types of algae in our tanks from a bacterial supplement that's designed to attack algae. As Ryan mentions, reefers could opt to take the refugium offline in a separate tank during the course of a Vibrant treatment.
I put a sock on my siphon and into a bucket, siphon out nasties, water back in. If you have a sump you can just siphon the display to a sock in the sump :)
I'd call this additional maintenance on top of your AWC. Maybe once or twice a month you could do a manual 5gal or 10gal water change to knock this maintenance out, while throughout the week your AWC could be changing 3% to 4% per day.
@@BRStv so you need 3 tanks to clean 1 tank with the AWC.... ok that might be good for RICH people who don't know what to do with their $ but my poor broke ass thinks that is a very stupid idea and a waste of 2 tanks.
@@sseeaahhaawwkkssrule975 We only use one large saltwater storage tank for our AWC setup using the Neptune DOS. The dirty water is routed directly to the drain and the clean water comes from the storage tank. Easy peasy! AWC may not fit everyone's tank maintenance approach, but it is a solid option for quite a few reefers. :)
You forgot one. The reefer who does what they need to. 5 gallon water changes (biocube 29) weekly. I have algae, it’s rampant. Dosing vibrant twice a week (2.5ml each) and can’t get it to die back. Just started gfo and added a tux urchin.
Check out Vibrant. It's basically a bacterial supplement where the bacteria actually feed off of algae. It's not a quick fix, but works extremely well. Video link below if you wanted to learn more. ruclips.net/video/jDUbzs8j3Y4/видео.html
the background of my redsea max for some reason acts like an algea scrubber, it's the only place in my tank where the algea grows and i can just manualy remove it from time to time. (It's not just 1 moment, the tank has been running for 4 years and this has always been the case)
1 thing I didn’t take into consideration is condition of storage barrels, my water was coming out of my rodi unit at 0 the barrel I was holding the water in a day before mixing would put the tds up to about 200, a few weeks after sterilising everything my algae issue had started to disappear
A skimmer that's adequate for the size of tank and bioload,a fuge that's adequate for catching whatever the skimmer didn't get,fish with a purpose,trocus,bumblebee snails,and bacteria,bacteria,bacteria and if I fail to do a water change regularly..shame on me.
I don't fit in any of those 4 categories... I'm trying to actively grow a small amount of Algae in my display tank while maintaining a large healthy growth of algae in my refugium.
In conjunction with any manual removal you can do, turbo snails and urchins seem to be the best line of defense for red turf algae. I usually opt to go the urchin route as turbo snails tend to die more easily and sometimes don't do as well in warmer water, depending on where they were collected from.
# 21 dont keep difficult to feed fish! Since my diamond goby jumped my nitrates have ben so much lower! #22 make sure lights are programmed to right spectum! I am having such difficulty programming my lights so I put on acclimation mode still tons of algea (in my nano) I am looking into different lighst because I believe its the warm white being to yellow and also the red is on to much even in a preprogrammed acclimation mode! Aquatic life edge led's suck! My po4 is only .02 so cant be phosphates and dont have the algae in other tank and I change water on both on same day! Once every 2 weeks! #23 add a fighting conch or two. I have no algae in my 36 so I removed a conch from bigger tank and he has almost wiped out all the algae in less then a week and it was in between all the zoas and a lot of frag plus! Still changing lights though..lol i hate the yellow cast it gives to the tank and I notice my corals close up during the yellow period! Your ideas are great but thought I would share a few of my own! LOL
Hey great video Thank you..I got a question about lighting. You stated leave light off while cycling your tank if you have dead rock., light on if you have live rock..I wanted live rock but couldn't afford it all so I mixed it.. half dead half live.. what about lights on or off in my case? Thank you for any info.
You'll want to keep lights on in that case. True live rock typically has beneficial things on it like coralline algae that are photosynthetic, meaning that if the light is turned off for a prolonged period of time, it will die off.
What should I do if I made the mistake of turning the lights on before the cycle was over and I was adding coral to the tank and the algae got out of control?? I can’t turn the lights off as I have several corals and a big bubble tip to keep thriving, I’m goin on 3months old now and I’m hopin by adding a blenny will take care of a good bit of it and the snails start doin their damn job, the corals and anemones are doing great so far and don’t seem to be bothered by the algae growing around them but I do t want it to come to that, any tips would be greatly appreciated I’ve dialed my lights back a lil but until I’m sure the anemones are gonna thrive I’ll reduce the amount of time the lights are on and I’ll prolly get some more snails and maybe crabs
If you have corals in the tank, turning the lights off isn't an option. Regular water changes to help maintain nutrient levels, manual removal (be diligent about this), and adding herbivores are all part of the multi-pronged solution. Not one thing is going to solve this overnight, so keep at it and be patient. Check out pincushion or tuxedo urchins too! Those little guys are algae eating machines!
@@BRStv yeah I kinda came early with coral but they’re growing so I don’t see a problem there, those are the things I’m plannin on doing that plus I’m gonna either build a refugium or algae scrubber I’ve seen some decent ones made from power filters have a couple lying around so gonna give it a shot, u think an urchin would be alright in a 28gal tho?? I heard a comment of yrs about if necessary use a tang and jus sell it later I’m trying to decide between that or gettin a sailfin type blenny maybe a starry or red lipped, I’ve seen some people say add an elated crab but wouldn’t that be risky with bubble tips in the tank? Thanks for ur responses really could use the help I’m jus getting back in to this after several yrs off and I don’t wanna get discouraged bc of it but I’m pretty sure if I get a scrubber built and add a blenny I should be able to jus sit back and let the tank finish maturing seems how I’m only at 3mo but I’ve seen a lil improvement I’m gonna increase the amount of water I change out this wk I’ve been doing small ones bc I didn’t wanna slow down the maturation of the tank
Is this product ok to use with the additional help of the CUC crew? Both fish and snails that feed on algae would it be ok to use this? Im thinking they eat some dead algae and harm them? Just checking, thanks!
What about not cleaning your sandbed? That's a nutrient sink. I was struggling with algae for about 8 months and I finally said screw it and cleaned my sand bed a bit. Then the next day all the algae was disappearing that quick.. So in my head I said, if this worked what if i deep clean my sand bed even under my rock work. That's where it cleared all lll my algae problems. Sucky part is my sps suffered and a few bleached. What I got out of this is clean the sand bed, but a small portion at a time.
@@Dan-lg4ti the exact gravel cleaner I used was "KASAN Gravel Cleaner" on Amazon.. But any gravel cleaner works... Just control the flow so you don't suck up the gravel into the bucket or what ever container your using.
For those testing their reef tank's, we usually suggest the ULR Phosphate checker 🙂 www.bulkreefsupply.com/phosphate-ppm-ultra-low-range-colorimeter-hi774-hanna-checker-marine-water.html
The only time that you'd likely want to shut off the UV during cycling is if you're adding in any liquid bacterial supplements. Aside from that, run it like you normally would. The clean up crew question is an interesting one. I think there could be some cases where you could get by without one. That said, a small cleanup crew made up of the right critters for your specific goals will almost certainly be beneficial.
If the rock has been previously used and now dry, you'll want to cure it before adding to an established aquarium. If you're using a rock like Reef Saver, just give it a good rinse in RODI water to remove any dust and it can go right in.
What you suggest i do if im facing GHA. Briopsys, and dinos? Ive added turbo snails but they slowly die, i gotta keep dosing phosphates as it constantly stays at 0. I did a 3 day blackout and even though it helped it did killed most of my corals.
Idk a out Bryopsis but manual removal of GHA was key for me. If its stubborn you can try scrubbing the rocks and spray em with H2O2 to kill the fine bits stuck to the rocks. That, and keep dosing P04, and N03 if it needs that too. Those 2 need to be balanced.
@@homegrownfrags6531 yes i know but shouldnt i attack the dinos first? Issue is that the algae keeps the nutrients at 0 and that just makes the dinos worse. This sucks so much man lol
@@Mr.McGurt yea so far i have added an entire bottle of neophos in just 2 weeks and removed as much algae as possible. So far phosphates are still at 0 and nitrates at 5. Gonna up the daily dose of P04 to 20ml a day because 15ml isnt doing anything.
Are you using a toothbrush to clean your frags? If yes is it a soft. Medium, or hard bristle? I was scared I would damage my coral if I brushed them clean....
Can I add hydrogen peroxide into my sump to circulate through my 90 gallon and kill the hair algae? Without harming my fish? If yes, how much should I use?
We typically use a toothbrush to clean the frag plugs or the hard skeleton of LPS corals. I wouldn't recommend brushing the coral tissue as it will damage the coral.
There are some threads on the Reef2Reef forum of reefers dosing H2O2 directly to the tank, but I would research that approach very thoroughly before attempting. In this video we reference H2O2 as a dip for coral frag plugs/rocks for the most part or directly spraying nuisance algae in the tank when the water is low during a water change.
I like been hands on with my tank. lot people I see is setting up a lot of equipment so they don't have to be hands on letting there tanks look after it self I don't like that
Doosnt spraying rocks with peroxide kill bacteria on rocks also doing such a big water change? Can you combine peroxide with adding bacteria. i read somewhere or maybe one of your youtubes that peroxide dosnt work if using bacteria. I am trying to identify what is going on in my tank, looks like diatoms but nutrients are zero to 2 so what makes a skimmer over skim? Mine wont stop going nuts. I quit running it basically since I am trying to up phosphates from 0.
That Mordor etching the red eye is a no no no hell to the no - One time overnight he ate all of my corral one on back wall - He is. No longer with us hahahah
How to bet the brown dying algae off the rocks and corals. I used peroxide, lowered phosphates, now I have the brown crap everywhere, other than taking all the rocks out, how did I get rid of this stuff
There really isn't a sure fire "cure," but trying to starve them out seems to be the name of the game. To that end, we've found that feeding less food at any given time, but feeding more frequently will help reduce the amount of food the hydroids have to feed on.
Chemiclean is probably the most sure fire way to get rid of cyano. Usually takes just a little bit of effort with a couple of water changes before and after a 48 hour treatment period.
@@BRStv thx for reply. 1. Have gone thru Root cause of Cyano on R2R but NO FINAL SOLUTION by experts on Cyano for its Root cause annd How to Settle Issue without Chemi Clean. Any Say 2. Any logical reason for Pre Water change.
My frogspawn was. I had a dead head next to a "barely alive" head and hair algae kept getting ahold in the dead head. Peroxide killed it and my frogspawn is one of my healthiest corals today. I took my frags out and sprayed em with H2O2. You can also make a mix of diluted H2O2 and soak them in that.
Vibrant will feed off of all algae, good or bad. While we haven't seen chaeto be as affected as other algae like hair algae, it's possible that it will significantly slow it's growth.
Frags is just short for fragmentation. In our hobby, we're referring to a fragmentation (frag) of a larger piece of coral. It's a way we can propagate them in captivity. In most cases, it involves either breaking or cutting a small piece off a larger colony.
I tried dosing weekly with Vibrant to rid my tank of algae and cyano....3 weeks later my 125 is almost crashed and overtaken by dinoflagellates. Many corals are dying. Thanks a lot :(
You are not using the product right then and understanding how it works. My guess is that you zeroed out your Phosphates and Nitrates which is a bad thing. When using Vibrant you need to make sure your Phosphates and Nitrates don't drop too low. The other thing is that Vibrant will take out weaker algaes first, opening up more room for stronger algaes to grow so you may see an increase in that before the bacteria gets to those. It takes time, months sometimes. I have used Vibrant for over a year and it works great. The people I hear complaining about it are always the ones who do not understand how it works and how to use it. I also use it as a part of my Dino beating plan which will get rid of all Dino in a week. I beat it 3 times in my first year using no special equipment such as a UV. My tank is now a year and a half old and I have not dealt with any Dino or algae problems since about the year mark.
Get rid of algae, cyano, dinoflagellates and tank pests...once and for all!
➡ brs.li/BRStv_Beat_Algae
Top Reefing Mistakes EVERYONE makes. Learn from ours!
➡ brs.li/BRStv_TopReefing_Mistakes
You the bomb guys. Keep it up, especially Ryans new tank.
Best reef channel ever. Wish I could found it before...😒🤦♂️
Ten+ years of learning in one short video. Pay attention folks this is gonna help you! All of it is relevant and it works. Its that simple. I've never tried vibrant but ill go watch the dedicated series! TY BRS
After having a 150 g tank for 10 years and being in the hobby since 1985 we decided to downside so I started from scratch setting up a 60 g cube. Having not start3d a new tank in over 10 years I decided to simply follow program outlined earlier this year on BRS. It’s now been 8 months since I setup the tank. We went through a very short ‘ugly phase’ of about 5 weeks with some algae growth but pretty much non existent. I’ve then simply been waiting patiently with just half a dozen fish transferee from my old tank as well as half a dozen bubble tips I also transferred. No additions, just letting the system stabilize. Yesterday while doing the weekly gravel cleaning I noticed a bunch of purple sots on the rccks! The system is now ready to add my first corals. Bottom line: simply follow the advise given here and you too can have a beautiful, algae free mixed reef tank! Thx BRS!
Randy's pronunciation of "plague" is tripping me out. I honestly didn't know what word he was saying the first time.
And utilitarian but I guess up there where they are it is utilalatarian
"Plag" NO Randy, stop it, bad Randy!
Plag
I'm going to blame my northern Montana roots on this one... LOL! -Randy
@@BRStv Don't pay any attention to me, I've got an annoying english accent :)
so glad you mentioned putting tangs in smaller tanks ive been telling some friends for years that you can but when they get too big you have to be able to let them go or trade them.
I can’t even begin to tell you how much valuable knowledge I gain every time I watch one of your videos, especially this one, and I can’t begin to tell you how much I appreciate your efforts! BRS is all a beginning or pro reefer needs to be successful! Bravo as always, my friends! BRAVO!!
Oh My Sweet Lord! I should not have been allowed to try saltwater without being forced to watch this video first! I am a fan of small videos quick fixes and short answers but this video put me in my place as a beginner ready to give up on saltwater all together this video saved my tank thank you guys so much I would hug you if I could!!!
After reefing for a decade, I’ve worked out algae turf scrubbers are your best friend. I run mine 16 hours a day using a 15w grow led for my 150 gal. And it’s made out of a large lunchbox lol cheap and effective. All my cyano and hair algae all grows out of sight, I don’t bother with a skimmer, just run an air stone for oxygenation. And yes a tang :)
Can you tell me more about how you did this please
Years ago I had a reef tank with a big hair algae problem so I went to the ocean in FL (sebastian inlet) and picked a sea urchin out of the tide pools. It was a black one. It licked that problem in a few weeks. In a few months it reproduced and there were urchins in all the nooks and cranies of the rocks. From that point forward the coraline algae took over and the hair algae was gone. The urchins didn't mess with any of the corals and they made the tank beautiful.
About Bryopsis and Magnesium: back in the days the idea was not to dose Mg to raise its level, but to dose *Kent Marine Magnesium*, because supposedly it had a component that killed bryopsis. It was that one and that one only that people used.
Interesting. Had not heard that.
I've used this method for years, dose Kent Magnesium daily, I don't have Bryopsis in my display or sump. Unfortunately it doesn't keep other algae from growing.
Peroxide is typically 3% peroxide and the rest is distilled water. So when you dip in peroxide you're also doing a freshwater dip, which helps a lot with pest 👍
Also found out when u take the rock out of the tank and spay it. Bristle worms will come running out. But do it to too much rock n ur bacteria will be messed up. So I'd only do it under certain circumstances
I agree 100% with Manual Removal. It sucks, it can be messy and time consuming but it really is the best way. Get as much out as you can. Also, I sprayed my rock with H2O2 to kill the fine bits. Then keep those nutrients balanced and DON'T LET THEM HIT ZERO. All tanks are different but my N03 is 12ppm and P04 is 0.08. Almost zero algae in my DT, corals are healthy, and my chaeto stays healthy.
Been using algae turf scrubber for over 12+ years and it works great.
Just an fyi, hydrogen peroxide (3%) often uses pyrophosphoric acid as a stabilizer. Spraying it directly into your tank could cause bigger problem than it solves. Test your H2O2 first with a phosphate test kit. You may need to first degrade the H2O2 by adding some rust (iron oxide) to the sample you want to test and leave it overnight.
Never knew that...Thank you.
Have been using Vibrant for many months to eliminate green bubble algae. It works but it does take time so don’t be in a hurry.
This stuff never worked for me for some reason, I used 2 8 oz bottles and saw now results
you should add the % of hydrogen peroxide in the video, maybe i missed it but i think it wasn't noted. But just to prevent people from using 35% H2O2 (which i have lying around my house for example).
Did step 6 on the recommendation of a reef sensei. Huuuuuuuuuuuuge bummer, good recommendation!
Great tips! Interesting. I recently glued a new zoa cluster on a small rock ..and the rock is growing small patches of green film algae. Even though I removed the plug. Guessing there was algae within the zoas?
Next illnuse hydrogen peroxide for sure..or brush the rock with it. Cheers
Doing a water change is exactly the same of living in a house and opening the widows. Fresh stuff comes in, the bio sphere has a breath of fresh air. I swear by water changes.
That's a solid analogy!
Ya I do water changes and don’t use a protein skimmer cause it never does anything when the water is clean.
Merci pour cette vidéo dans cette période difficile de confinement !!! 👍👍👍
Thank you! We are glad we can help keep you busy with entertainment! :)
I have a foxface that loves bryopsis. It occasionally tries to grow on the gyre and he will swim in the current just to try to grab some
I live in Florida, so I use natural sea water that I pump myself. Only at high tide, clean water. I know it’s full of nutrients, but I have had a tank that will not get rid of algae. I have 4 tanks, do all the same water in each when I do my changes 1 has the problem. Started with regular soft algae, I used reeflux a few times and that did it for a few months then boom came back. I collect hermits, snails, and urchins but they die off only in this tank. All levels are zero. Finally got the algae down but it has now turned into a diatom brown colored strain that when you touch it it like melts. Lights are down to 4 hours for last 6 months, all levels are zero. I’ve been used phosban after water changes and that seems to help but after a few weeks it just returns. Has a 100gal G series skimmer that works great. Most corals look good but anemones don’t. I can’t figure out what the problem is, only thing I haven’t tried is the hydrogen peroxide in there or the bacteria. What would you suggest?
Excellent video, well done guys
#7 Fish are absolutely part of my cleanup crew, but I have a 200 gallon reef, so tangs make a little more sense, I also have a 40G breeder (not connected) and tangs absolutely are NOT part of that clean up crew, tank is just too small for that and I'm not going to pull the "well I'll just rehome it"/"I'm going to get a bigger tank"/"I'll sell it back to the LFS" angle for this
#8 get banded trochus snails, they will spawn in your tank, and then don't have to worry about "replacing" your clean up crew.
You lads make it so much easier for us all
Subscribed 👍🏻
Thank you guys for the information provided . What I like the most is you state the problem , explain the reason it happens and then you give all the possible solutions . I am new to the hobby and I have learned so much from your tutorials . Thank you !!
I love this channel Great Video!
I used H2O2 - but it destroyed my torch. I pulled the rock out, used a turkey baster on the algae, rinsed in salt water then put it back in the tank along with a 25% water change. Torch died over about 4 days
Sorry to hear that. Peroxide is definitely rough on some corals :/
Im new to saltwater...maybe 3 weeks in...i bought a used 16 gal Biocube setup with two clowns in it...transfered it to my home with the same water originally in it...over course of the last few weeks ive been checking the salinity and doing test strips, everything has remainded nomimal...I havent done a routine water change yet and i wasnt sure how to set the moon lights and day lights so I watched video on how to set those times...I believe Ive got them coming on around 9 am and going off by 10 pm...ive started adding a few fish over the past week or so, a Damsel, a bi color angel and several clean up crew...snails, crabs, a lawnmower blenny, a goby and a pistol shrimp...ive noticed over the past few days my sand is turning red and also getring some red hairy blotches on the rocks...also some green hair algae going on...what would anyone suggest? Cutting down the light times? Water change? Dosing for algae?
Definitely time to start getting on a regular water change schedule. Since your tank is so small, weekly water changes will be a solid choice. During your water change, try to manually pull as much hair algae out as you can. You'll also want to keep tabs on your phosphate levels.
Dinos are a different breed too (if you consider them an algae). They require different remedies. Dinos actually thrive at zero phosphates and nitrates. I ended up having to use Dino X, black out the tank for 5 days AND run a 55 watt UV sterilizer. At the time I only had 2 corals in the tank, and both died in the process. But they would have died anyway with the way the Dinos had taken over.
i just run uv 24/7 and do nothing and theyre gone in weeks
Can you do a video on types of algaes
First off, I appreciate all your work to bring sooo much knowledge to the hobby. My question, Is it me or does Randy mispronounce certain words? Like plague or utilitarian. 🤷🏼♂️ This is in no way meant to be hateful.
Another great video thanks
VERY informative!
I didn't make mistake number 6 but my wife did. She ordered a CUC from Reef cleaners almost immediately. She wanted to surprise me. She succeeded.
Thanks, great video !
Great list but if you use vibrant, you can’t grow chaeto right? So not all lessons can be implemented together
It's not that you can't use both simultaneously, but rather we should expect some sort of reaction to all types of algae in our tanks from a bacterial supplement that's designed to attack algae. As Ryan mentions, reefers could opt to take the refugium offline in a separate tank during the course of a Vibrant treatment.
Amazing video!
Very informative videos,, thanks
Thank you.
The problem I have with the auto-water change concept is how do you remove all the detritus from the sand?
I put a sock on my siphon and into a bucket, siphon out nasties, water back in. If you have a sump you can just siphon the display to a sock in the sump :)
So do you have 3 tanks to change 1 tank? That's how it looked to me in this video.
I'd call this additional maintenance on top of your AWC. Maybe once or twice a month you could do a manual 5gal or 10gal water change to knock this maintenance out, while throughout the week your AWC could be changing 3% to 4% per day.
@@BRStv so you need 3 tanks to clean 1 tank with the AWC.... ok that might be good for RICH people who don't know what to do with their $ but my poor broke ass thinks that is a very stupid idea and a waste of 2 tanks.
@@sseeaahhaawwkkssrule975 We only use one large saltwater storage tank for our AWC setup using the Neptune DOS. The dirty water is routed directly to the drain and the clean water comes from the storage tank. Easy peasy! AWC may not fit everyone's tank maintenance approach, but it is a solid option for quite a few reefers. :)
Reef Flux is awesome !!! No side effects what so ever that I can tell.
You forgot one. The reefer who does what they need to. 5 gallon water changes (biocube 29) weekly. I have algae, it’s rampant. Dosing vibrant twice a week (2.5ml each) and can’t get it to die back. Just started gfo and added a tux urchin.
I am having bubble algae I try to get a toothbrush and scrubbing, them what would you recommend?
Check out Vibrant. It's basically a bacterial supplement where the bacteria actually feed off of algae. It's not a quick fix, but works extremely well. Video link below if you wanted to learn more.
ruclips.net/video/jDUbzs8j3Y4/видео.html
the background of my redsea max for some reason acts like an algea scrubber, it's the only place in my tank where the algea grows and i can just manualy remove it from time to time. (It's not just 1 moment, the tank has been running for 4 years and this has always been the case)
1 thing I didn’t take into consideration is condition of storage barrels, my water was coming out of my rodi unit at 0 the barrel I was holding the water in a day before mixing would put the tds up to about 200, a few weeks after sterilising everything my algae issue had started to disappear
A skimmer that's adequate for the size of tank and bioload,a fuge that's adequate for catching whatever the skimmer didn't get,fish with a purpose,trocus,bumblebee snails,and bacteria,bacteria,bacteria and if I fail to do a water change regularly..shame on me.
I don't fit in any of those 4 categories... I'm trying to actively grow a small amount of Algae in my display tank while maintaining a large healthy growth of algae in my refugium.
Hey BRS guys, I have watched all of your videos and I have never heard you speak about red turf algae.
In conjunction with any manual removal you can do, turbo snails and urchins seem to be the best line of defense for red turf algae. I usually opt to go the urchin route as turbo snails tend to die more easily and sometimes don't do as well in warmer water, depending on where they were collected from.
# 21 dont keep difficult to feed fish! Since my diamond goby jumped my nitrates have ben so much lower! #22 make sure lights are programmed to right spectum! I am having such difficulty programming my lights so I put on acclimation mode still tons of algea (in my nano) I am looking into different lighst because I believe its the warm white being to yellow and also the red is on to much even in a preprogrammed acclimation mode! Aquatic life edge led's suck! My po4 is only .02 so cant be phosphates and dont have the algae in other tank and I change water on both on same day! Once every 2 weeks! #23 add a fighting conch or two. I have no algae in my 36 so I removed a conch from bigger tank and he has almost wiped out all the algae in less then a week and it was in between all the zoas and a lot of frag plus! Still changing lights though..lol i hate the yellow cast it gives to the tank and I notice my corals close up during the yellow period! Your ideas are great but thought I would share a few of my own! LOL
How /off/ do lights need to be during lights-off phase? Will ambient light from the room being on all day be a problem?
If you're running a tank too small for tangs as a utilitarian fish, are there any dwarf utilitarian fish to use as a substitute?
While not a fish, urchins shouldn't be overlooked. In particular, blue tuxedo and pincushion urchins
Hey great video Thank you..I got a question about lighting. You stated leave light off while cycling your tank if you have dead rock., light on if you have live rock..I wanted live rock but couldn't afford it all so I mixed it.. half dead half live.. what about lights on or off in my case? Thank you for any info.
You'll want to keep lights on in that case. True live rock typically has beneficial things on it like coralline algae that are photosynthetic, meaning that if the light is turned off for a prolonged period of time, it will die off.
@@BRStv Thank You for that advice yes I don't wanna lose any of that beautiful purple.
Will dosing vibrant mess with or stop the good coralline Alge from growing ??
What can i use besides tangs for a cuc in my trigger/ puffer tank?
This video needs to be put in a reefer bible!
What’s the best thing to do for a nano tank? 13 gallon? No refugium, just a bunch of coral a few snails / crabs and a fish?
Check out the AI Prime or Kessil A160. Both would be solid options :)
What should I do if I made the mistake of turning the lights on before the cycle was over and I was adding coral to the tank and the algae got out of control?? I can’t turn the lights off as I have several corals and a big bubble tip to keep thriving, I’m goin on 3months old now and I’m hopin by adding a blenny will take care of a good bit of it and the snails start doin their damn job, the corals and anemones are doing great so far and don’t seem to be bothered by the algae growing around them but I do t want it to come to that, any tips would be greatly appreciated I’ve dialed my lights back a lil but until I’m sure the anemones are gonna thrive I’ll reduce the amount of time the lights are on and I’ll prolly get some more snails and maybe crabs
If you have corals in the tank, turning the lights off isn't an option. Regular water changes to help maintain nutrient levels, manual removal (be diligent about this), and adding herbivores are all part of the multi-pronged solution. Not one thing is going to solve this overnight, so keep at it and be patient. Check out pincushion or tuxedo urchins too! Those little guys are algae eating machines!
@@BRStv yeah I kinda came early with coral but they’re growing so I don’t see a problem there, those are the things I’m plannin on doing that plus I’m gonna either build a refugium or algae scrubber I’ve seen some decent ones made from power filters have a couple lying around so gonna give it a shot, u think an urchin would be alright in a 28gal tho?? I heard a comment of yrs about if necessary use a tang and jus sell it later I’m trying to decide between that or gettin a sailfin type blenny maybe a starry or red lipped, I’ve seen some people say add an elated crab but wouldn’t that be risky with bubble tips in the tank? Thanks for ur responses really could use the help I’m jus getting back in to this after several yrs off and I don’t wanna get discouraged bc of it but I’m pretty sure if I get a scrubber built and add a blenny I should be able to jus sit back and let the tank finish maturing seems how I’m only at 3mo but I’ve seen a lil improvement I’m gonna increase the amount of water I change out this wk I’ve been doing small ones bc I didn’t wanna slow down the maturation of the tank
Maybe this one to be prefaced for Vibrant aswell :)
what if youre trying to grow a marine planted tank?
Is this product ok to use with the additional help of the CUC crew? Both fish and snails that feed on algae would it be ok to use this? Im thinking they eat some dead algae and harm them? Just checking, thanks!
Hey Troy,
Which product are you referring to?
What about not cleaning your sandbed? That's a nutrient sink. I was struggling with algae for about 8 months and I finally said screw it and cleaned my sand bed a bit. Then the next day all the algae was disappearing that quick.. So in my head I said, if this worked what if i deep clean my sand bed even under my rock work. That's where it cleared all lll my algae problems. Sucky part is my sps suffered and a few bleached. What I got out of this is clean the sand bed, but a small portion at a time.
Jesus Rodriguez how did you clean it?
@@Dan-lg4ti the exact gravel cleaner I used was "KASAN Gravel Cleaner" on Amazon.. But any gravel cleaner works... Just control the flow so you don't suck up the gravel into the bucket or what ever container your using.
Would you suggest a low range or ultra low range phosphate tester?
For those testing their reef tank's, we usually suggest the ULR Phosphate checker 🙂
www.bulkreefsupply.com/phosphate-ppm-ultra-low-range-colorimeter-hi774-hanna-checker-marine-water.html
Do you really need a clean up crew? Should I run a UV during cycling?
The only time that you'd likely want to shut off the UV during cycling is if you're adding in any liquid bacterial supplements. Aside from that, run it like you normally would. The clean up crew question is an interesting one. I think there could be some cases where you could get by without one. That said, a small cleanup crew made up of the right critters for your specific goals will almost certainly be beneficial.
Hey guys I got a question.. is it safe to add fresh new dry rock to an established aquarium.....???
If the rock has been previously used and now dry, you'll want to cure it before adding to an established aquarium. If you're using a rock like Reef Saver, just give it a good rinse in RODI water to remove any dust and it can go right in.
What you suggest i do if im facing GHA. Briopsys, and dinos? Ive added turbo snails but they slowly die, i gotta keep dosing phosphates as it constantly stays at 0. I did a 3 day blackout and even though it helped it did killed most of my corals.
The algea is holding all the phosphates, that's why you see 0,kill the algea and where does the phosphate go, into the water column..
Idk a out Bryopsis but manual removal of GHA was key for me. If its stubborn you can try scrubbing the rocks and spray em with H2O2 to kill the fine bits stuck to the rocks. That, and keep dosing P04, and N03 if it needs that too. Those 2 need to be balanced.
@@homegrownfrags6531 yes i know but shouldnt i attack the dinos first? Issue is that the algae keeps the nutrients at 0 and that just makes the dinos worse. This sucks so much man lol
@@Mr.McGurt yea so far i have added an entire bottle of neophos in just 2 weeks and removed as much algae as possible. So far phosphates are still at 0 and nitrates at 5. Gonna up the daily dose of P04 to 20ml a day because 15ml isnt doing anything.
Are you using a toothbrush to clean your frags? If yes is it a soft. Medium, or hard bristle? I was scared I would damage my coral if I brushed them clean....
Can I add hydrogen peroxide into my sump to circulate through my 90 gallon and kill the hair algae? Without harming my fish? If yes, how much should I use?
We typically use a toothbrush to clean the frag plugs or the hard skeleton of LPS corals. I wouldn't recommend brushing the coral tissue as it will damage the coral.
There are some threads on the Reef2Reef forum of reefers dosing H2O2 directly to the tank, but I would research that approach very thoroughly before attempting. In this video we reference H2O2 as a dip for coral frag plugs/rocks for the most part or directly spraying nuisance algae in the tank when the water is low during a water change.
I like been hands on with my tank. lot people I see is setting up a lot of equipment so they don't have to be hands on letting there tanks look after it self I don't like that
How does the so coral Zoa senthelli hold up to hydrogen peroxide?
Algae grows with the wrong spectrum of light as well.
Doosnt spraying rocks with peroxide kill bacteria on rocks also doing such a big water change? Can you combine peroxide with adding bacteria. i read somewhere or maybe one of your youtubes that peroxide dosnt work if using bacteria. I am trying to identify what is going on in my tank, looks like diatoms but nutrients are zero to 2 so what makes a skimmer over skim? Mine wont stop going nuts. I quit running it basically since I am trying to up phosphates from 0.
That Mordor etching the red eye is a no no no hell to the no - One time overnight he ate all of my corral one on back wall - He is. No longer with us hahahah
4:14 is what my tank looks like right now, I don’t know how to get rid of it , is reef flux safe for cheato?
We've never noticed an issue with Reef Flux and Chaeto. The main algae that Reef Flux will kill off is Caulerpa and Bryopsis
How to bet the brown dying algae off the rocks and corals. I used peroxide, lowered phosphates, now I have the brown crap everywhere, other than taking all the rocks out, how did I get rid of this stuff
i beat bubble algae with brightwell aquatics razor chem
Do you guys have any suggestions on how to deal with colonial hydroids? They are overrunning my Biocube.
There really isn't a sure fire "cure," but trying to starve them out seems to be the name of the game. To that end, we've found that feeding less food at any given time, but feeding more frequently will help reduce the amount of food the hydroids have to feed on.
Have do I remove staghorn algae?
Over feeding is always a terrible idea!
Tried everything on this list with no luck.
What grade % of hyrogen peroxide do you use? I see it sells at 3. 6, 12 and 35%
We see reefers using 3% peroxide most frequently.
Can you pls Mention Cyano after Vibrant and its Solution
Chemiclean is probably the most sure fire way to get rid of cyano. Usually takes just a little bit of effort with a couple of water changes before and after a 48 hour treatment period.
@@BRStv thx for reply.
1. Have gone thru Root cause of Cyano on R2R but NO FINAL SOLUTION by experts on Cyano for its Root cause annd How to Settle Issue without Chemi Clean. Any Say
2. Any logical reason for Pre Water change.
Would it hurt the coral by dipping it in hydrogen peroxide?
A lot of corals won't tolerate a peroxide dip, so definitely use this method with extreme caution.
For the cost of these protein skimmers you'd think it came with a cheap PC or a Tablet.
Are Euphyllia tolerant to peroxide
My frogspawn was. I had a dead head next to a "barely alive" head and hair algae kept getting ahold in the dead head. Peroxide killed it and my frogspawn is one of my healthiest corals today. I took my frags out and sprayed em with H2O2. You can also make a mix of diluted H2O2 and soak them in that.
They seem to be hit or miss in most cases. Fleshy LPS aren't usually something that I'd dip in peroxide personally.
Utalitarian is NOT a word! It's utilitarian. The root word is utility , not utality. Otherwise this is an excellent video.
Awesome feedback! Thanks. :)
Will vibrant kill chaeto?
Vibrant will feed off of all algae, good or bad. While we haven't seen chaeto be as affected as other algae like hair algae, it's possible that it will significantly slow it's growth.
Did he say PLAG? Like FLAG?
Lanthanum Chloride
is anyone selling vibrant bacteria product in the UK?
Whats a plag?
Don’t dip Chalices in peroxide unless you like skeletons
The dreaded PLAG!
😂
I should have watched this I just paid 15 bucks for reef dip when I could have spent a dollar On peroxide
What's Frags?
Frags is just short for fragmentation. In our hobby, we're referring to a fragmentation (frag) of a larger piece of coral. It's a way we can propagate them in captivity. In most cases, it involves either breaking or cutting a small piece off a larger colony.
You can't beat red turf algae
I totally agree and BRS has never even spoken about it EVER!
Use ro water
I tried dosing weekly with Vibrant to rid my tank of algae and cyano....3 weeks later my 125 is almost crashed and overtaken by dinoflagellates. Many corals are dying. Thanks a lot :(
You are not using the product right then and understanding how it works. My guess is that you zeroed out your Phosphates and Nitrates which is a bad thing. When using Vibrant you need to make sure your Phosphates and Nitrates don't drop too low.
The other thing is that Vibrant will take out weaker algaes first, opening up more room for stronger algaes to grow so you may see an increase in that before the bacteria gets to those. It takes time, months sometimes.
I have used Vibrant for over a year and it works great. The people I hear complaining about it are always the ones who do not understand how it works and how to use it. I also use it as a part of my Dino beating plan which will get rid of all Dino in a week. I beat it 3 times in my first year using no special equipment such as a UV. My tank is now a year and a half old and I have not dealt with any Dino or algae problems since about the year mark.
Can we get Randy a Garth from Wayne's World wig and glasses?
😂
You mean .The lights should be turned off the first day the fish tank starts
Im right
Wtf is a Plag?
Gabriel Berki The capitalization in your comment isn’t any better. 😉
i use klear