Standard Air Filters SUCK, Do This Instead!! | HVAC Installation
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- Опубликовано: 20 ноя 2022
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#IAQ #hvac #ductwork - Кино
Personally would have used spray glue for the bubble wrap, but my god that filter return looks so darn clean!!!!!
Ng on taping the flex to the bubble wrap, needs to be sealed to the metal. Especially since your not using panduit straps to hold the flex.
I tend to agree with you, but he did tape the shit outta everything including the bubble wrap. In theory it should be air tight, especially it being on the return side of the system. My only worry is that eventually one of the flex ducts will fall off, and its not a question of if.
Honeywell makes a 4 inch thick, pleated air filter with a 1 inch flange that can be put in a 1 inch return grill. Three inches of the filter extends into return duct. There are generic versions that are cheaper.
I use these on my house and recommend them to everyone that has 1in filters, they are a bit more money but well worth it.
I use them too... haven't had to dust my home in 6 months.
Probably quite an upgrade from a 1", lets you go a couple steps higher in MERV while maintaining the same static pressure drop. My opinion is that air filters are to protect the equipment (the evap coil) by filtering out particulates and hair which the condensate wash between cycles can't self-clean. For air purification, install a bypass air purifier with a high merv filter. Install whatever HVAC return filter that keeps the air handler's static pressure within spec. Other things you can do - bathroom exhaust vent to pull moisture out after showers. Good range vent that exhausts to the outside. Keep a clean house where mold doesn't grow on dirty plates. Don't smoke indoors.
Correct, air filters are indeed to protect the equipment, that is their intended purpose. A side benefit is collecting dust/dirt particles in the air but I agree they are not for really cleaning or purification of the air in the home.
I absolutely love you’re videos. They really show how to do things, and with such good quality.
I’ve been watching for a while, even started my own channel.
How do you balance work, home life, and RUclips?
Your work is always neat and clean. I really look up to you and appreciate your hard work on and off the camera. GREAT JOB!!!
P.S you made me a squeegee guy now lol
Nice work as always! I like to use the zip ties on the inner liner and then tape it off or use mastic for a great seal, I just don't trust the tape to last long. I also read in the comments below they use spray glue and zip ties which sounds a lot less messy, I will have to try it.
Nice job Zac! Love seeing guys do things the right way and the right way only!
Love the patience and attention to detail. I’ve also seen you use the big white zip ties. I usually just zip tie the inner and the outer and can it a day. I like the taping method. I’ve also noticed that you are always working in crawl space, never a full basement with a lot of room, lol. Mad props for that, There are very little crawlspace jobs in eastern PA where I’m from. Thanks for the detailed video
Lucky ass mofo no crawls lmfao
It’s nice to see a younger man taking pride in his craftsmanship.you have a nice shop.you should invest in a eight foot break,Pittsburgh machine and stomp sheer.that would be enough to start making custom duct work.been doing sheet metal for over 33 years and it’s a dying trade with the plasma tables.
Nice install as usual !!!!
Any videos on the shop build out ?
Solid work!
Glad to see you're starting to pay attention to your static drops, too many people,techs included, just put in the biggest best filter they can fit and think they're doing some kind of justice when in fact most times they are only hurting the performance of the system, on new installs this can be easily figured into the system when designing your duct systems.
installation looked top tier! thank you for the content and ideas. The goal it seams like is to never ever ever make doubles with regular film tape get da dc181. make some double with that if one must.
Changed a lot of filters in my days in Sweden. Can´t say i have seen many panel filters since the early 2000s. Only bag filters here, much better performance.
Shop Air cleaners hete use panel pre filter and bag main filter. I wonder when our residential hvac will start using bags. They would be easy enough to add to the return air.
Just came across your HVAC channel and at the perfect time. Doing some work on my HVAC system return air system. Dumb question here, what is the difference between foil tape and duct tape, and when do you use each one. Thanks for your informative videos, they have really helped.
The one very and most important things to remember about any air filter whether it’s Merv 8 or Merv 16 is face velocity of air across the filter medium if you could keep it around 200 or less per square foot of filter face area. Otherwise you turn your Merv 16 filter or Merv 13 filter into a Merv eight filter because the velocity is so high it literally pulls the small particles of dust right through the filter medium as if they were large holes.
Air filters are only rated at a very slow air velocity hitting their face surface area.
This is why some 5 ton systems even if you read the little*of the hidden information in small print down below you may see they recommend a filter size of 30“ x 48“ or even more surface area when it’s a higher Merv rating.
Absolutely. A good metric to use is 2 square feet of filter area per 400 cfm. This allows for a low face velocity and also a very low pressure drop across the filter, even on high MERV filters.
Well done job and very clean finish. I will suggest to never put a filter in a crawl space. Aprilaire has return grill filters (air purifiers) so the home owners can change from indide and you keep that return duct clean because you filtering the air in the intake opening. 👍
From UK , you did a very good job!
Hi Zack your install looks good the only one concern I have is this duct work on the return side from where it enters up to the filter duct is over time have lots of dust, pet hair and who knows what all it needs little humidity and you know the rest of it
You are professional as well as maticulious thanks for the video sir.
We use spray glue on the metal before we put the wrap on. Or mastic. Just to keep it from moving. Then we seal everything
Bad idea, you don't want to have the bubble wrap touching the ducts. Unless you don't care about your heat loss/gain
great pro-tip for using the staples. :)
I imagine crawling under the house to remove and replace the filter is going to be popular.
Love your channel man
Honeywell now makes a MERV 13 filter grille filter. They still make the MERV10/11 also. I run 2 MERV 13 20x25 filters on a 2.5 ton unit
Don't know about the climate you installed this, but if I'm correct, that's a heating and/or cooling air duct. Having only that thin bubble wrap insulation on the filter, and I guess one inch or two insulation on the flex. Running the ductw basically outdoors feels crazy. But might be at a really nice climate...
Bro going on an install and demoing the plenums, I absolutely hate taking flex connections that have tape around it. 9.9/10 have to cut back flex inner liner on sometimes a connection that’s damn near too tight to hook back up. Good old panduit ties and some pookie and call it a day.
Guessing not on unit due to accessibility. Looks good.
Shouldn’t that have been either foil tape or mastic tape to seal up that square to round? Over time the cloth duct tape will dry and deteriorate over time right? Ever saw old duct tape in things and it just falls apart?
It turns to powder
Couldn't agree more. Installing anything less than a 4 inch filter for a home is unacceptable these days. When I started the trade a few years back, I made the switch immediately to merv12 or 13 4 inch filters. Never looked back. Those 1 inch filters will kill your equipment. Especially 3m.
The system has to be able to handle the 4 inch,you can't just go putting 4 inch filters in wherever you want, that is what kills systems
@@HVACRTECH-83 Lol. No 4 inch filter on the planet would actually increase static pressure.
Pretty clean work!!
Zach great video do you ever use duct board would love to see your take on transitioning from metal to duct to flex ect. Thanks
Building my home now and trying to learn as much as possible so these videos really help. Does this now eliminate the need for the filter return(s) on the inside of the home? Wanting to do Aria vents and returns, and the Aria return isn't filtered, so this would solve that problem! Any advice is greatly appreciated
Shop looks like its coming along pretty well. Cant wait for more content from you 👌🏾
Looks good 👍 but bubble wrap needs to have a air gap between the wrap itself and the metal to get the right r-value.
Just a crawlspace
Correct,needs air gap to achieve its rated r value
I personally would’ve used metal tape for the collar and bubble wrap, Looks good tho
Metal tape, I put that shit on everything!
POOKIE FOR THE WIN!😤😤
Facts foil tape looks the best, does the job. Duct seal just makes the job the look terrible.
Nice work as always Zach. Love all of your videos and always learn something new. 👊🏼
There is no way that filter is ever getting changed in the history of that structure... unless an HVACR technician lived there.
We use mastic for metal with metal
And my past company they would do a half of duct butter like crazy
I'm learning a lot from your videos. Why is it that you use mastic tape on metal to metal connections in some videos and PC-857 on this one? Also noticed you used AF-100? on bubble insulation in one video but just the regular stretch dc-181 stuff on it here? Also, what's the difference in using bubble wrap versus fiberglass installation?
Also to that tape you use, thanks
Your craftsmanship looks far superior to the rest of the system, if not the whole house.
Hi what brand stapler and what size staples are you using ???? Thanks !!!!
No zip ties needed to secure the flex ducting? Tapes enough?
You have to remember in some states they do not require blower door duct testing and have the tight ducting requirements like California and some other states where you have to have mastic plus ties plus duct tape to make it airtight to pass the duck blaster test.
We watch on RUclips not remembering that we are sometimes in different states and that other states have more lax codes for energy efficiency
He gettin paid by suretape thats why he is only using the tape an not zipties
Should have zip ties for sure, it's the only way to do it rite and I'm suprised that he isn't using them. And also you need to have a zip tie gun to sinch them down good
@Kilo5910420 he uses zip ties in other videos and tapes over top so I'm not sure
@@feyrband Are you talking about panduit straps? They also make a large adjustable steel band. It’s like a large hose clamp. No way it’s coming off, as long as the metal collar is heavy enough not to collapse.
Can you use that insulation on ductwork like the D boxes?
Georgia requires the use of mastic on joints as well. Is Mastic not required in Tennessee..??
That's interesting. Thank you for that. Do they want mastic over tape? Or do they prohibit tape and use mastic only? I ask because I'm going to have some work done and am wondering whether to tell the installer to use mastic, not tape. It seems to me that tape will fall off over time?
Can you add a link to that duct stapler, I’ve never seen one like that?
Why wasn’t the filter rack attached directly to the indoor unit?
Think that the client need to have a mould remediation company to treat the crawlspace and a dehumidifier or more ventilation there
With the bubble wrap insulation isn't it a better R value to keep a aire space between the insulation and the duct?
Yes,must have air gap to achieve rated r value
Zac can you buy your junctions pre insulated in the USA
Not sure if this was asked already, but what stapler are you using?
R8 minimum in unconditioned space..that silver duct tape is nothing more than normal duct tape colored silver it will be peeling off in no time
Really clean work, but got a question. Why not use electronic air cleaner, or electrostatic filters? Don’t they do a better job at cleaning the air? That’s what I always install for my customers.
Because he gets paid by these companies to show there product
@@Kilo5910420 i totally get it, that makes sense, and I understand being online and having to show product, but sometimes it could be misleading. Im not saying this filter is not good, it is and it dose a great job but there is a better one and the electro static once are stronger and do a better job.
Looks great
May I ask why you use so much flex duct? I've seen on quite a few of your videos that it seems your go to is flexduct, especially on the return drops to a furnace/air handler. Any particular reason? I was always told flexduct was bad, less airflow etc....i do like how you utilize it tho. It doesn't seem popular up here in Canada.
Very clean
What stapler is that your using?
What’s your opinion on AeroSeal?
Nice and clean..
What brand is your staple gun??
I'm guessing the answer is space, and because it's easier. But why put it there and not by the unit like its usually installed?
None of that would fly in Florida. Not the wrap. Not the tape. Etc.
It's a good job
Good 👍 job 👏
Zip ties for flex here in PA
What is the R-value of that bubble wrap ?
4.2 not to code in cali
Is anyone ever going to go down there and change that filter unless you're going down there on an anual/bi-anual inspection?
One way to keep a maintenance, letting them know the importance of changing it and likely they'll keep one going, to not have to go down there themselves
Nice
In spite of the effectiveness, quality of installation, or frequency of replacement, why would a homeowner ever want to crawl under the house to change their air filter. Guess what? It will never get changed. A 1" filter in the house will likely get changed on a schedule by the resident.
Hey I believe that type of insulation needs an air barrier to have any thermal benefit. I think doing it the way you did provides a 4.2 R value but if you needed a R-6 or R-8 you need and air barrier between the duct and insulation. Not sure what code is around there but that won’t cut it in my area.
Double wrapped will work in TN can’t with just a single layer
You are correct, you have to cut strips of it and tape those down first before wrapping to get the rated r value.
So are you going back to do filter changes or is the customer goung to crawl under every yr or 6 MO to do it. I don't see an elderly person doing the change out
Is that 28 gauge? Looks pretty flimsy.
Muito top 💯
Zip ties every time or the homeowner will pull it off crawling over or under it.
might as well make those square to rounds out of tin foil. jesus, use some metal
Spray glue that bubble
Any ideas on how to use a 4" or 5" filter to replace an in-wall central return grate that uses a 1" filter?
Honeywell makes a 4 inch thick air filter with a 1 inch flange that allows it to be put in a 1 inch grill return. Three inches of the filter extends into the return duct. There are also some generic versions that are cheaper.
@@jimw7550 That would be awesome. The return space beneath the air handler in the wall is very spacious. I could crawl in there!
What are we ups guys now? 😄
Filter Base looks really good, however my only critique is so much effort was put into upsizing the filter for pressure drop only to be negated by compressed flex. Pay close attention to your flex compression when taking slack out and especially compressed 90's. You loose a sizable amount of your cfm's due to flex compression. I would've done a hard pipe 90 from the unit to one side and stretch the flex on the other side really well.
That poor network cable….
Why not use zip ties?
R6 for a crawl space?
That kind of bubble wrap is 4.2. Unless with airspace then it’s R6
Terrific, but what happens to the old original 1" filter that came with the AC unit in the first place?
Nothing wrong with one inch filters. Merv 5 or 8 works the best in my opinion. Advantage of filters in the house is that filtration starts right there. which means less dust in the duct work.. Media filter filtration starts in the crawl space near unit. More dust in return duct.
You need to do more research on the topic.
@@HVACRTECH-83 Oh that's laughable! You must think I am a rookie, bub! I have done all the research I need since I have been doing HVAC for 25 years. Taking the static pressure on duct systems every day. Doing tests with different kinds one inch filters. Taking before air flow measurements with 1 inch filters and then after measurements when return was converted to 4" media filters. The static pressure was higher which means worse for system, thus a reduction to air flow and performance of heat and cooling system.
@@smacleod69 4-5in media filters have more surface area than 1in filters....1in filters flow less than media filters
@@smacleod69 Yea, people think that the furnace has an unlimited total static pressure. They don’t realize that most residential furnaces, at least in my area, are only rated for .5” total external static, before the airflow starts dropping off. One bad fitting or poor filter application can have a big effect on airflow.
those spot welds were hilariously bad and whoever made them should be fired
🤣
Time for new fabrication shop, that is very low quality custom metal
😂
The R rating is 1.5 at best.
You still have wrap it with anothe 2" of fiberglass. It may look cool to the younger kids in the trade. But dosen't do the jod you are trying to use it for. Only because you don't know how to dress for the trade.
That junk itches his arms and hands
Show some pride and take some craftsmanship. Any hack fly by night can throw some flex out of a box and smack some tape on it. Learn to do some real duct work!
My mom told me to tell you that she's not crawling under the house to change her filter, so install a bar type filter grill by the hallway and stop being a wise guy......
Thanks, Sincerely my mom
P.S ... Who the hell uses a tape squeegee 🤔😒
Are you using reverse clinch staples?
♥W♥o♥n♥d♥e♥r♥f♥u♥l!! You really need "Promo sm".