This is an awesome Video Bryan. Very informative. I’m gonna pass this along to our techs. One the best detailed videos I’ve seen to properly explain Static Pressure. Hope all is well buddy.
I love everything that he is talking about.. it was great that he tested his home unit.. too bad he did not hit on duct work installers.. not questioning duct sizing..
Damnit man I live in Florida and want to come work for you guys at Kalos so bad. Tired of begging for training, classes, and certifications as if they just have handfuls of employees trying to actually better themselves around here or something. You’re a wizard, man. Please don’t stop. We out here learning thanks to you and Craig.
Love your videos man! I’ve been doing residential HVAC in Utah for 8 years. We’re 4,500 feet above sea level here. Almost every system I test has high static pressure. It’s almost standard that we are adding 300 to 500cfm of return duct work on every install that we do. Also having issues with pressure switches not staying closed even though the inducer is pulling 30% over the water column rating of the switch. Keep up the awesome work, I’ve learned a ton from your videos and I appreciate the content 🤘🏼
Great video. I do HVAC at a hospital and we do a LOT of air balance and static pressures. We always take a static pressure differential across final filters on the maintenances. Recently I took a bunch of Pitot readings to evaluate plugged chillwater coils to see if they need replacement. It was definitely a learning curve.
Hi Bryan, These videos are awesome. IT brought me back on track and I have to give you the Cedit, for guys in the field who cannot afford hvac school this is such a blessing. Your teaching really took me to a high level with great HVAC etiquette. Honest and perfect diagnostics no guess work hence time saving and quick solutions. I thank you very much and may God bless you and keep you and yours for being so selfless. Gowkarran from Toronto Canada
I can not stop to appreciate what I learn here and apply to Temporary HVACR as a gas/oil Tech in Canada. Thanks a lot again, am asking that you guys come over North for a HVACR symposium. We would like to hear and get this information. Truly helpful and problem solving information. Thanks again.
@@francismarotta2301 some of the York's have a knockout with a plastic cover on the inlet and outlet of the evaporator. If it's a down discharge RTU, the supply air cover has a knockout too. It's best to read the manual because Lennox RTUs actually ask for the supply static to be measured after the first 90.
Great tip for using masking tape to seal filters that don't quite fit. I also like to use silicone and/or foil tape in cases where the filter box is not properly sealed with the rest of the duct work.
I love this guy.. don't listen to him because he is right and every word he says is true. but my company is based on correcting mistakes related to " your field duct workers" attempt to save on material and installing undersized ducts and I will never install 1" filter rack if you pay me!.. media filters!.. I listened to every word of his lesson and I wanted to applaud that we are lucky that there are still people who understand and know what they teach.. this was great to listen to.. stay true my friend! You my friend have 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻 and a sub.
Another tip to add to your discussion....if you use the different airflow ramping profiles on a variable speed blower.....especially for the humid ramping profile, where the blower will ramp up to 50% for 30 seconds then 70-75% of full speed for 7-7.5 minutes, then it finally hits 100% full speed. Wait till you get to full speed....or change the profile to a non humid profile, where it'll ramp to 50% for 30 seconds and go to full speed.....just remember to put dip switches back to what its supposed to be for the location you are at.
A lot of times the grill and filter size are fine but the box behind grill/filter and getting to input of air handler is just an afterthought based on what space is available. This can affect the uniformity of air flow across the area of grill/filter, effectively making the grill and filter perform poorer (smaller) than its physical area. Common issue when grill/filter has to be offset from air handler due to an interior wall.
I can tell you this. I have been working in engineering research for a major manufacturer for 30 years. We use tools like the old school manometer with fluid to calibrate and certify our instruments. A utube manometer is better than any electronic instrument you can buy. It cannot be wrong. I am not talking about the Amazon special, but those would work too. They are probably just not durable. We use calibrated mercury thermometers to calibrate our thermocouple reading instruments. We use scales with weights and balances. We actually still use triple beam scales and we have certified weights we can use to calibrate the triple beam so we can use it to calibrate electronic scales. 😅. We always use a wet sock psychrometers to read wet bulb temp and calculate relative humidity. Humidity sensors are the worst. A sling psychrometer is a much better tool than any electronic humidity sensor. Just use distilled water. 😅. Don’t get me wrong. We use electronic, but we use “old school” instruments to calibrate or just verify the electronic instruments. Of course we use mass flow meters and thermocouple instruments to determine the exact BTU’s and verify compressor capacity at a wide range of operating conditions. Of course we use mechanical flow meters and calculations to calinrate the mass flow Coriolis meters. What’s my point? The old school methods are how they came up with units of measurement in the first place so do not count out the old fluid filled utube manometers. They cannot be wrong. 😮
Great video cleared up a lot of things. However I have a question While performing a static pressure test should all the vents in the house need to be opened because I know not all people don’t have all vents open all the time. Or does that even matter
Bryan . Q. How often is it required to have precision measuring instruments recalibrated or re certified to manufacturers specifications, as in todays procast ? Q. b Who is responsible for the process and cover the costs? I do not recall covering this subject..
Air handler usually refers to a fan coil unit integral with coil as used in a heat pump. Can't believe the percentage of homes that I've looked at since I've retired from industrial/ institutional work that have never worked correctly because some hack didn't know how to size duct. The number of contractors that tell homeowners they need a larger unit when the duct system can't support what is there is astounding. Filter manufacturers push 'allergenic' and 'high efficiency' filters that are too restrictive when brand new for the base unit's design.
Are you saying that to test properly, I need to set my blower speed to the MAX setting to complete the test? And then before I left the customer I would lower it to the proper CFM for the customer? It seems to me that I would test it at the normal running speed.
Thanks for another great and informative video! I've recently had to go through a crash course on using static pressure to identify ducting problems. I work in commercial HVAC and if I were to use the TEC Tru Flow with all the adapter kits, it would get very expensive with all the extra adapter kits. Majority of the RTUs I work on have 4 filters or more per RTU. Can I get away with using one adapter plate and placing in the middle of the filter rack or return ducting? I own Testo 510 and Fieldpiece SDMN 6 stand alone manometers. I find the SDMN 6 drifts quite a bit, which I believe is due to not being temperature compensated like Testo. Does the Fieldpiece wireless manometers drift as well?
Thank you for all your great vids. I was wondering if you can ever have too much return ducting. After watching your videos, I checked my external static and found 3.5 and 3.5 for a total of 7 in WC . Filter drop is .18 INWC ( 5 inch air bear) and a\c coil drop is .21INWC. ( 2.5 ton N coil.) The temp rise is 70 degrees in heat mode. Rheem says 40-70 rise is okay , so I'm at the high end of acceptable . Shooting for 55 degree rise. I'm thinking I might need more returns and supplies but don't want to over duct it. Any help or advice? Also, when is was installed they added one 10' and one 8 inch flexible return duct. this is a 70,000 BTU Rheem 95% that replaced a 115,000 Ruud 95% furnace. Thank you Reply
Excellent lead into using DEEP PLEATS HIGH MERV efficient filters on Correct size. Of course measuring pressure drop or following the chart printed on the side of the filter and always recommend upsizing.
My heat pumps Fujitsu 2 ton (ARU24RGLX) , came with a default setting of Standard static pressure: 0.18 in.WG (45 Pa). I asked the installer to show me the equations they used to match up with the proper setting for static pressure. Of course I didn't receive any such information but did get the line: The system was designed for that heat pump so its all good. In the design/tech manual the function code for static pressure is 26 and the default setting is 31 which equates to .18 in. The settings start at 03 = .12 in (30 Pa), in increments of one up to a setting of 20 = 0.8 in (200 Pa). Then one has 31 = .18in and 32 = automatic air flow adjustment. I find it hard to believe that any work was done to optimize static pressure setting but want to know if leaving it at the default is best practice for installations? Would it be feasible to set it to 32 Auto adjusting??
When you mention the 4 inch filters are you referring to a gas furnace or furnace where you can set it on a base with an access door to change the filter?
The HVAC videos do not discuss the increase in Electric Consumption from High Static conditions. Over the life of a Furnace, or Air Handler, the waste in power is Staggering, all paid for by the unsuspecting home owner. Ex: (At 1 amp per 0.1 inch (my furnace/AC is .2 over)=0.16KWH/hr., 1,250hrs/year, 25 Years, $.185/KWH gives $950 wasted, over the life of the unit.)
@@HVACS I always used magnahelics, or incline manometers. May be older technology, but it’s fool proof. The newer forms are great, but need to be calibrated, and certified. I wonder how many shops get their instruments calibrated on a regular basis.
I disagree with checking external static pressure on a high speed. And the reason being is if we design a duct system with a blower at a .5 inches of water column for a specific friction rate, why would I change that if as a result I’ll have more air flow and higher static?. It’s the same weird concept where people are changing the fan speed to high in order to check CFM on a gas furnace. Why would you add extra work just to verify air flow? Blower performance charts are usually available. I could go on all day about it. Thanks for your videos.
I have several ideas for new HVAC tools…I filled out the diveratech application but never heard from them…guess cause I wouldn’t completely describe the ideas without chatting to someone first for confidentiality purposes….who else does the tool invention for HVAC tools?..I have 5 different ideas
I am confused about how you can add together -0.25 and 0.25 and get 0.50. That’s some magic math lol. To me that is 0.0. Are we completely disregarding the negative? How would it work when using a magnehelic?
It’s the difference between the supply static pressure and the return static pressure. So .25 - -.25 which is essentially .25 + .25 because when you subtract a negative it is like adding the positive.
The blower essentially is doing two things at once, pulling return air in through the return, AND sending air out through the supply. Both have an effect on how hard the motor has to work, so even though they are different types of pressure, you add them together for a complete picture on what's going on. Also , make sure to have the doors on when taking static pressure, because that can effect you readings as well.
Old school number line. Zero in center of line, negative to the left of zero, pos to the right, draw 25 divisions to left of zero, and then 25 divisions to the right of the zero. TSP is from one extreme to the other..
To zero out gauges does not calibrate them. I love to watch these videos, there is good info but it seems like the instructor doesn't have much in the field experience.
This is an awesome Video Bryan. Very informative. I’m gonna pass this along to our techs. One the best detailed videos I’ve seen to properly explain Static Pressure. Hope all is well buddy.
I love everything that he is talking about.. it was great that he tested his home unit.. too bad he did not hit on duct work installers.. not questioning duct sizing..
Damnit man I live in Florida and want to come work for you guys at Kalos so bad. Tired of begging for training, classes, and certifications as if they just have handfuls of employees trying to actually better themselves around here or something.
You’re a wizard, man. Please don’t stop. We out here learning thanks to you and Craig.
I am Korean. I always think your lectures are the best.
Love your videos man! I’ve been doing residential HVAC in Utah for 8 years. We’re 4,500 feet above sea level here. Almost every system I test has high static pressure. It’s almost standard that we are adding 300 to 500cfm of return duct work on every install that we do. Also having issues with pressure switches not staying closed even though the inducer is pulling 30% over the water column rating of the switch. Keep up the awesome work, I’ve learned a ton from your videos and I appreciate the content 🤘🏼
Great video. I do HVAC at a hospital and we do a LOT of air balance and static pressures. We always take a static pressure differential across final filters on the maintenances. Recently I took a bunch of Pitot readings to evaluate plugged chillwater coils to see if they need replacement.
It was definitely a learning curve.
My 6 year old has been making us binge watch your channel lately 😅 he loves it!
Haha... does he want a job 🤣
@@HVACS I do! I would love to work for company like yours. You invest allot of time teaching your employees.
Hi Bryan, These videos are awesome. IT brought me back on track and I have to give you the Cedit, for guys in the field who cannot afford hvac school this is such a blessing. Your teaching really took me to a high level with great HVAC etiquette. Honest and perfect diagnostics no guess work hence time saving and quick solutions. I thank you very much and may God bless you and keep you and yours for being so selfless. Gowkarran from Toronto Canada
I can not stop to appreciate what I learn here and apply to Temporary HVACR as a gas/oil Tech in Canada. Thanks a lot again, am asking that you guys come over North for a HVACR symposium. We would like to hear and get this information. Truly helpful and problem solving information. Thanks again.
I wish manufacturers would put in test locations for manometers
Amen
Some York RTUs actually do. I like that so there's consistency.
@@jonathanmark7751 yes I’ve noticed this on a few York RTUs
York RTUS do so you can do a static drop across coil to determine air flow. I wishbthey would do the same for furnaces
@@francismarotta2301 some of the York's have a knockout with a plastic cover on the inlet and outlet of the evaporator. If it's a down discharge RTU, the supply air cover has a knockout too.
It's best to read the manual because Lennox RTUs actually ask for the supply static to be measured after the first 90.
Great tip for using masking tape to seal filters that don't quite fit.
I also like to use silicone and/or foil tape in cases where the filter box is not properly sealed with the rest of the duct work.
Another great video Bryan, you explain static pressure very clear. Thanks
I love this guy.. don't listen to him because he is right and every word he says is true. but my company is based on correcting mistakes related to " your field duct workers" attempt to save on material and installing undersized ducts and I will never install 1" filter rack if you pay me!.. media filters!.. I listened to every word of his lesson and I wanted to applaud that we are lucky that there are still people who understand and know what they teach.. this was great to listen to.. stay true my friend!
You my friend have 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻 and a sub.
18:30 You just explained a solid portion of fan curve analytics (mechanical engineering concepts) in a very simple way.
Very well done.
This guy carries the whole world of HVAC
Enjoyed vid. After watching, clear as mud. I'll watch a few more times.... Thanks for posting this info.
It is worth it. He covers a LOT.
Thanks Brian for an awesome video ,I learn every day .
Great Video. Amazing presentation!
Another tip to add to your discussion....if you use the different airflow ramping profiles on a variable speed blower.....especially for the humid ramping profile, where the blower will ramp up to 50% for 30 seconds then 70-75% of full speed for 7-7.5 minutes, then it finally hits 100% full speed. Wait till you get to full speed....or change the profile to a non humid profile, where it'll ramp to 50% for 30 seconds and go to full speed.....just remember to put dip switches back to what its supposed to be for the location you are at.
A lot of times the grill and filter size are fine but the box behind grill/filter and getting to input of air handler is just an afterthought based on what space is available. This can affect the uniformity of air flow across the area of grill/filter, effectively making the grill and filter perform poorer (smaller) than its physical area.
Common issue when grill/filter has to be offset from air handler due to an interior wall.
Charging any AC or HP system correctly ASSUMES correct rated airflow which is usually 400 cfm per ton. This is a big point that should be emphasized.
I can tell you this. I have been working in engineering research for a major manufacturer for 30 years. We use tools like the old school manometer with fluid to calibrate and certify our instruments. A utube manometer is better than any electronic instrument you can buy. It cannot be wrong. I am not talking about the Amazon special, but those would work too. They are probably just not durable. We use calibrated mercury thermometers to calibrate our thermocouple reading instruments. We use scales with weights and balances. We actually still use triple beam scales and we have certified weights we can use to calibrate the triple beam so we can use it to calibrate electronic scales. 😅. We always use a wet sock psychrometers to read wet bulb temp and calculate relative humidity. Humidity sensors are the worst. A sling psychrometer is a much better tool than any electronic humidity sensor. Just use distilled water. 😅. Don’t get me wrong. We use electronic, but we use “old school” instruments to calibrate or just verify the electronic instruments. Of course we use mass flow meters and thermocouple instruments to determine the exact BTU’s and verify compressor capacity at a wide range of operating conditions. Of course we use mechanical flow meters and calculations to calinrate the mass flow Coriolis meters. What’s my point? The old school methods are how they came up with units of measurement in the first place so do not count out the old fluid filled utube manometers. They cannot be wrong. 😮
Outstanding as always, Thanks for sharing!
Thank you for your vital content.
Great video cleared up a lot of things. However I have a question
While performing a static pressure test should all the vents in the house need to be opened because I know not all people don’t have all vents open all the time. Or does that even matter
Very informative.... Liked it ❤
Bryan .
Q. How often is it required to have precision measuring instruments recalibrated or re certified to manufacturers specifications, as in todays procast ?
Q. b Who is responsible for the process and cover the costs?
I do not recall covering this subject..
Thank for the great video. Very informative
I still use old school, dwer ,it works well.
Thank you
Excellent video ‼️
Thanks ‼️
Thank you very much Bryan!!!
It sounds like installing 4 in thick filters will improve the system performance where it is possible to do it without too much trouble.
Air handler usually refers to a fan coil unit integral with coil as used in a heat pump.
Can't believe the percentage of homes that I've looked at since I've retired from industrial/ institutional work that have never worked correctly because some hack didn't know how to size duct.
The number of contractors that tell homeowners they need a larger unit when the duct system can't support what is there is astounding.
Filter manufacturers push 'allergenic' and 'high efficiency' filters that are too restrictive when brand new for the base unit's design.
Thanks again for the videos!
🥃🥃🍺🍺🍺⛳️🎳
Stay safe.
Retired (werk'n)keyboard super tech. Wear your safety glasses!
Are you saying that to test properly, I need to set my blower speed to the MAX setting to complete the test? And then before I left the customer I would lower it to the proper CFM for the customer? It seems to me that I would test it at the normal running speed.
Usually test in cooling mode where blower is higher and electric is metered for amps
Great info. Thanks Bryan.
Good work
Thanks for your hard work
Thanks for another great and informative video!
I've recently had to go through a crash course on using static pressure to identify ducting problems. I work in commercial HVAC and if I were to use the TEC Tru Flow with all the adapter kits, it would get very expensive with all the extra adapter kits. Majority of the RTUs I work on have 4 filters or more per RTU. Can I get away with using one adapter plate and placing in the middle of the filter rack or return ducting?
I own Testo 510 and Fieldpiece SDMN 6 stand alone manometers. I find the SDMN 6 drifts quite a bit, which I believe is due to not being temperature compensated like Testo. Does the Fieldpiece wireless manometers drift as well?
great video
Thank you for all your great vids.
I was wondering if you can ever have too much return ducting.
After watching your videos, I checked my external static and found 3.5 and 3.5 for a total of 7 in WC .
Filter drop is .18 INWC ( 5 inch air bear) and a\c coil drop is .21INWC. ( 2.5 ton N coil.)
The temp rise is 70 degrees in heat mode. Rheem says 40-70 rise is okay , so I'm at the high end of acceptable . Shooting for 55 degree rise.
I'm thinking I might need more returns and supplies but don't want to over duct it. Any help or advice? Also, when is was installed they added one 10' and one 8 inch flexible return duct.
this is a 70,000 BTU Rheem 95% that replaced a 115,000 Ruud 95% furnace. Thank you
Reply
Excellent lead into using DEEP PLEATS HIGH MERV efficient filters on Correct size. Of course measuring pressure drop or following the chart printed on the side of the filter and always recommend upsizing.
Get like 2 inch thick filters or 5 inch thick to improve air flo
My heat pumps Fujitsu 2 ton (ARU24RGLX) , came with a default setting of Standard static pressure: 0.18 in.WG (45 Pa). I asked the installer to show me the equations they used to match up with the proper setting for static pressure. Of course I didn't receive any such information but did get the line: The system was designed for that heat pump so its all good. In the design/tech manual the function code for static pressure is 26 and the default setting is 31 which equates to .18 in. The settings start at 03 = .12 in (30 Pa), in increments of one up to a setting of 20 = 0.8 in (200 Pa). Then one has 31 = .18in and 32 = automatic air flow adjustment. I find it hard to believe that any work was done to optimize static pressure setting but want to know if leaving it at the default is best practice for installations? Would it be feasible to set it to 32 Auto adjusting??
When you mention the 4 inch filters are you referring to a gas furnace or furnace where you can set it on a base with an access door to change the filter?
Good video I love this content
AWESOME 👏 👍
The more I dive into HVAC, the more I want to reinvent everything, especially tools. 🙂
The HVAC videos do not discuss the increase in Electric Consumption from High Static conditions.
Over the life of a Furnace, or Air Handler, the waste in power is Staggering, all paid for by the unsuspecting home owner.
Ex: (At 1 amp per 0.1 inch (my furnace/AC is .2 over)=0.16KWH/hr., 1,250hrs/year, 25 Years, $.185/KWH gives
$950 wasted, over the life of the unit.)
What is a proper method to measure whether my dwelling is positively or negatively pressured?
Great video but I wish you would’ve showed you this in front of the furnace.
How tests stat pressure or atmosphere
Inch wc is the amount of pressure needed to displace an inch of water?
Not a word about a Magnehelic gauge?
Old technology.... works good though
@@HVACS I always used magnahelics, or incline manometers. May be older technology, but it’s fool proof. The newer forms are great, but need to be calibrated, and certified. I wonder how many shops get their instruments calibrated on a regular basis.
so in short, what is the common static pressure range, say, 0.5 W.C.?
I disagree with checking external static pressure on a high speed. And the reason being is if we design a duct system with a blower at a .5 inches of water column for a specific friction rate, why would I change that if as a result I’ll have more air flow and higher static?. It’s the same weird concept where people are changing the fan speed to high in order to check CFM on a gas furnace. Why would you add extra work just to verify air flow? Blower performance charts are usually available. I could go on all day about it. Thanks for your videos.
Have you done an AprilAire filter review?
rp.widen.net/content/4uiwz4kh5l/pdf/aprilaire-all-products-specification-reference-guide-2210.pdf?u=5rn8it
I have several ideas for new HVAC tools…I filled out the diveratech application but never heard from them…guess cause I wouldn’t completely describe the ideas without chatting to someone first for confidentiality purposes….who else does the tool invention for HVAC tools?..I have 5 different ideas
Is there such thing as negative reading on supply silly question i know but just curious lol
👍🏿
A customer told me her doctor recommended a restrictive air filter for her allergies. I asked her if the doctor was a mechanical engineer. No answer.
What's the difference between TESP, ESP and TSP?
I am confused about how you can add together -0.25 and 0.25 and get 0.50. That’s some magic math lol. To me that is 0.0. Are we completely disregarding the negative?
How would it work when using a magnehelic?
It’s the difference between the supply static pressure and the return static pressure. So .25 - -.25 which is essentially .25 + .25 because when you subtract a negative it is like adding the positive.
@UnusedRap your wrong, it is in fact, math magic 😂
What happens if the filter is in a grill?
👍
How is +.25" - 25" wc = .5" . Wouldn't it be 0?
With external pressure you ignore the negative
Its a cumulative measurement
The blower essentially is doing two things at once, pulling return air in through the return, AND sending air out through the supply.
Both have an effect on how hard the motor has to work, so even though they are different types of pressure, you add them together for a complete picture on what's going on.
Also , make sure to have the doors on when taking static pressure, because that can effect you readings as well.
+. 25 - (-.25) = .50
You subtract the negative pressure return air wc from the positive pressure supply air wc.
Old school number line. Zero in center of line, negative to the left of zero, pos to the right, draw 25 divisions to left of zero, and then 25 divisions to the right of the zero. TSP is from one extreme to the other..
PSIA
PSIG
Kool
Why .5
+0.25- 0.25 =0
To zero out gauges does not calibrate them. I love to watch these videos, there is good info but it seems like the instructor doesn't have much in the field experience.
That’s was not anything!? wtf
great video