*for Leather and skin is actually the same product just at different stages. If you skin a person, you're left with unworked leather. I've heard of lampshades made out of human leather. It's not very useful for much else as it's so thin and weak.
haaa I've never used peroxide to brighten plastic, but have worked with it before. When I saw you did the leather and put it in the sun I said "Oh no..."
When we hit late 70s and still remember how to work on these ancient machines the grands will look at us like...oh yeah hes really lost in time now... hehe Creazy how fast time moves on the development of PCs
Holy cow, a wild Proto appeared! Sorta unrelated, but you're awesome for all of your switch giveaways, and regular content in general. (You should definitely remember my username when you're selecting someone to receive a switch btw)
"Let me demonstrate with this mustard" Is it wrong that I chuckled for a long time at this? This video is awesome, it was cool to see this come together over two videos. I really do enjoy these restoration projects!
Sorry to see the retro-bright process didn't work so well this time around. I wonder if those metal covers on the handle can pop off, revealing the rivets underneath them -- then you can drill out the old rivets, remove the handle, and reinstall it with new pop-rivets. Speaking of the handle -- I would take it to an upholsterer. Someone who does automobile upholstery. Guarantee you they have the skills to fix it -- especially since you've got a picture of what the handle looked like originally. It'd be like re-wrapping a leather-wrapped steering wheel or gear-shift knob on a high-end car. Guarantee you they can get it done for you, no problem.
LMacNeill Assuming they're the same ones, the underside of the panel showed three rivets per end. Not sure if the covers would come loose once the rivets were done...
I think it'd be cheaper to buy a broken Osborne computer just for the handle. . If he wanted to, he could drill out the rivets and either re-rivet it back on (easy), or tap it and screw it back together (removable!)
He could probably fix it himself as well. ChrisFix (car youtuber) upholstered his whole steering-wheel without any prior knowledge except some research, and it turned out great
That would also be an awesome idea! Retro-bright doesn't need to just happen to computers... I've got a whole bunch of yellowed Lego bricks that I'd love to use Retro-bright on. I think it would be great for him to explain different methods for different things
Paint rollers deposit in blotches though, not evenly (and spray everywhere). Perhaps an ink roller to smooth it out after being applied? Or spraying on the peroxide? Or this clever idea of vaporizing the peroxide then letting it condense onto the surface creating an even liquid film. www.google.co.uk/patents/US4512951
The 0,1uF X cap isn't there to keep the noise out, it's there to keep the noise *in*. Without it the radiated noise from the switching frequency will increase significantly. It isn't needed for the power supply to work, but technically it is a very good idea to replace it. I'd do the same with those other two 0,01uF X caps while you're at it.
@@platypusfrenzy says... quite a bit about this channel. I do love this channel and am a subscriber, but I sometimes cringe at the mistakes he makes. The leather handle too... what the hell did he THINK would happen? Why would you even apply the cream to something that didn't need it?!?
Aurelius R I totally agree. as soon as I saw him walk away from that sunbathing leather, I knew what was going to happen. I’ve seen that happen a few times to the leather of cars that experienced inevitable scorching temperatures. however, this ridiculousness was not inevitable. david could have easily avoided this rookie mistake. I don’t know what he expected...a retrobrited handle? I would have AT LEAST wrapped the leather with some tape to prevent contact with the cream as well as less sun exposure.
Thank you for doing multi-part videos, it really extends my viewing enjoyment for specific retro units. Single episodes always feel like they are cut short at the end. There is so much lore and nostalgia beyond the restoration that needs to be brought to light.
Please keep in mind that The 8-Bit Guy is not a professional museum conservator. (I doubt anyone in the comments section is either.) As an enthusiastic amateur, he does what he does for the purposes of his own pleasure and self-edification, and although he does usually seem to know what he's doing, he's bound to make a few mistakes, but mistakes are one way of learning. The fact that he shows and admits his mistakes is actually quite thoughtful of him and should help others to not make the same mistakes in the future. Furthermore, nothing he has ever restored (or damaged, for that matter) has been exceedingly rare or priceless. With reference to the leather: there are some applications where it is useful to dampen or soak leather to make it pliable. A quick Google search also reveals that hydrogen peroxide shows up in some leather cleaning solutions, though not at the concentrations found in retrobright. However, soaking leather for any longer than absolutely necessary is a bad idea, especially if it's old or fragile to begin with.
Yep, after part 1 left me in suspense awaiting part 2, when I saw the notification it came out on my iphone, I swear that was the fastest I've ever finished cutting my lawn. Thanks David, as always awesome work!
I've been binge watching your videos, LGR, obsolete and a few others. I have to say, I enjoy your videos the best. You have excellent attention to detail without dragging it on for so long it gets irritating. I love your content and how you go about solving the problems you are presented with. Excellent work! KUTGW
The mustard and ketchup analogy cracked me up! 😃 Perhaps someone could make you some 3D printed custom basins for you to use for submerging items in hydrogen peroxide?
Well, of course off the shelf is what's cheapest and easiest obviously, but I was thinking something that would help him keep the components in place or shaped to fit better. Just an idea. ;)
I have no idea exactly why...but I REALLY enjoy these cleanup videos. I really like the differences from old to re-done and you explain the processes in great - but never too much - detail. I like that you show mistakes as well as successes.
Dave D No, it really wasn't obvious. Peroxide can be used to clean leather. (Got a blood stain on leather? That's right... PEROXIDE.) It's also used in the production of leather because it's more environmentally friendly than the old liming process. Either the solution was too strong, or that handle is some sort of synthetic instead of real leather. (Maybe both.)
I commend you for doing this work, it shows a lot of love for these old machines to put so much effort into restoring them, even if it doesn't always go as planned.
Honestly I really like that not all these videos are a success, it works as a warning and keeps the videos more exciting Like Watching a middle aged man clean and assemble old computers exciting It's the best
Ezra Salayandia You don't really know what glaucoma is, do you? It's when fluid builds up in your eye and puts pressure on your optic nerve, causing nerve damage. TL;DR: No, you wouldn't get glaucoma. It doesn't work that way.
7:12 I really like the design of the power cord / fuse cover, its impossible to remove the fuse when a power lead is in and impossible to put a lead in when the fuse cover is open. Cool.
I think you may have your example backwards. UV light is the catalyst, and if you have a lot of build up of the peroxide cream, you're probably not getting a whole lot of UV light hitting the plastic.
nunya baznus Do you want to know WHY Oxyclean works? Because it's about 40% sodium percarbonate. "But what is sodium percarbonate?" Look it up if you don't believe me: It's "an anhydrous source OF HYDROGEN PEROXIDE". In other words: Same shit, but it's a powder instead of a liquid.
Maaaan I was so worried when I saw the leather getting retro-bright'd. I was hoping it was gonna get wrapped. Glad you documented it afterwards though, it's a very useful lesson that might help others in the future.
There are 3 film capacitors that need to be replaced in Osborne PSU's. You only replaced the one that popped. It'll be letting the smoke out again very soon.
I would rather say it's some sort of maintenance register. Also this computer was produced from 1981 to 1983 but the sticker reaches up to 1989. I've seen these stickers on quit a few other devices too.
That Rifa capacitor is extremely well known for blowing itself up. It can be exchanged for a same value capacitor (I've done so several times on vintage test gear).
I've got to say, having not grown up with old computers such as this and therefore not seeing them with that nostalgic sense of importance, just watching these restoration videos really makes me appreciate the history which they're part of. Even though I'd have no use for one, I feel compelled to get one to restore myself as I know the process is something that I'd enjoy.
Hey! So I know how to answer your leather handle "problem" I've done this procedure multiple times on old suitcases I find in my uncle's garage (I like to look for old valuable computers there it's it's all suitcases) So there is no way to FIX or REPLACE the leather, what I do is literally take the leather handle off by cutting the leather wrapping around the metal rings. You then cut off the strings (At 10:20) one by one as carefully as possible (as you need a reference to your remake of the handle) and pull the leather into a straight piece and unfold it. Now as for the sponge, as I would recommend, just use a new one (Cause it might crust) and also measure how long and how thick the sponge is. Afther measurements, you then you go to your local fabric shop (Idk where you can buy this in the U.K., U.S., or Austrailia, as I live in Asia) buy a small strip of any type of leather (a.k.a. color and which animal) and any type of foam. And then you have to start drawing and measuring where you stitch and where the leather overlaps. I know this sounds confusing and hard, but if you have any questions, ask! Good day and good luck restoring!
Hey, David, Awesome video and I can't wait for the next one! About the streaking when you apply the retrobright cream. Have you considered using a small paint roller? Specifically a mini foam roller with a light amount of pressure. It's what professional painters use when painting with glossy surface paint to get a streak-free finish. That should reduce the streaking you get from the brush, at least on the larger pieces.
The RIFA capacitor filters actually current going back to the outlet. so it's a good Idea to put a newer KEMET or Panasonic (i like to use Panasonic) capacitor back in that circuit .
Get a large plastic container from Walmart, lowes or biglots. They usually have a top. I got one recently that fit a chandelier. It'll take a lot of peroxide to submerge it, but I really can't think of another way. On the plus side, if you fill up a container full of it you'll be able to quickly retrobrite anything else that's large
Zellio2011 Keep in mind that hydrogen peroxide has a relatively short shelf life before it eventually reverts to mere water and oxygen (2xH2O2 to 2xH2O plus O2) and becomes too weak to react much. That really cuts into the economics of maintaining gallons of it in a large vat for future projects, particularly given that the larger the container the more difficult it is to tightly seal, protect from heat, vibration, and UV (just the sunlight exposure it is subject to will accelerate the breakdown into water and oxygen, so likely only a use or two before it becomes too weak).
Could you use a sprayer setup with a pump in the bottom of the container and have the surfaces kept wet and the fluid constantly being refreshed. If you could set up a set of nozzles such that every side would be kept wet perhaps that would eliminate streaks and reduce the amount of peroxide you needed to have.
Yeah guys I realize this. Hell, those big plastic containers I mentioned are generally cheaply made and thin and wouldn't hold up to being filled with a watery substance anyway (For long at least, eventually it would wear out, and esp. if you moved it). This is something you'd want done in 2-3 days But if you have a lot of things to retrobrite and 2-3 off days, it sounds like a good idea to me
Thanks for showing us the mistakes and the process you go through. Personally, I'd rather see a two- or three-part series with interesting detail as you have done, than a single episode with a synopsis of the procedure and a large cut scene to the final result.
Some plastics also chemically react to alcohol and hydrogen peroxide. Some plastics also have a clear coat on them, your retro-brighting process might be removing said clear coat. This happened to me once while trying to clean a plastic part, i left some alcohol on it thinking it would evaporate, but instead it left a streaking pattern. No UV light was involved. So please consider the fact that an actual chemical reaction, and not the uneven coats are causing the pattern. This would also explain why some of your past attempts at this technique were quite successful and not met with the same difficulties.
The streaking seems related to the thickness at the area. I also think it's not related to UV at all. One possible solution is to apply a constant thickness, and minimal. No fat chunks! And do not apply extra, but simply spray with peroxide mist at intervals to prevent drying. Whenever I've had streaks, it was due to drying. Peroxide solution is best IMO since the hair product contains other chemicals that might interfere.
Hey David, I have watched this video at least 10 times, I enjoy your restoration videos very much! In a different video you mentioned that the heat method works well, but it is difficult to do for big pieces. My suggestion would be to use a large plastic container and a Sous Vide circulator, which can warm up the water (although you would be better starting off with warm water) and can keep it steady at a specified temperature, while circulating the water around the container. They can cost around $100-$150 but could help out a lot with your retrobriting!
I'm hooked on these restoration videos! You do a really nice job of showing everything you're doing, why, and the result no matter the outcome. Oh, and btw, I always thought these early computers were MADE in beige plastic! Never realized they were all grey when they were new!
Your channel is freaking awesome dude, I am an electronic technician, and I love when you fix this kind of devices, I love your channel, Greetings from Peru, Blessings
It still looks far better than it did. Perhaps if you just go through the retro-bright process several times then eventually it will all reach a point where it's as bright as it can get? I mean, it can't keep getting lighter and lighter forever, right?
What about vaccuforming a mold so that it is slightly larger than the actual cover you are attempting to retrobrite? Then maybe some form of injection system create an even layer of the retrobrite in an attempt to reduce streaking? Just a strange thought.
it still need the sunlight (or UV light). But it might by taping slanted pieces to the side , and vacuum forming that. Another idea i had was vacuum forming the inside into a filler. That way a large enough container (aquarium) can be used to completely immerge the piece , but no peroxide is wasted on the inside of the case.
How I do it: I don't use retrobright, I just use a plant mister + peroxide. I use a UV lamp in a mylar lined cardboard box. Seriously, that's it. I have never ever had streaking problems or anything of the sort, and all of it is super easy to obtain, cheaply and in good supply. It's easy to use, pretty much set it and forget it.
Oh yeah, that would work for sure, but David has mentioned before that he prefers to use the sun because it takes a few hours instead of days, and he's a busy guy.
I use 5-8% concentration Storm Peroxide from Home Depot. 3% topical will work too if you don't mind waiting a bit longer and buying up a bit more. I collect it in a bin and refill the feeder every so often and that seems to work great.
You now have enough subscribers to warrant you putting in some good research effort and a bit of money into getting plastics restoration right. A lot of people want to be taught how to do it correctly, and you are really well placed to show people how. You have been standing behind the 'amateur' banner for a while now, and you've learned some good valuable lessons, so it would be great to see you experiment with techniques on less valuable plastics and let us all know what the best processes are. Half a Million subscribers, let's see you step up your game. Thanks. Love the videos by the way.
6:26 - That sticker just shows the manufacturing date. It seems the top row is the month, the middle row the day, and the bottom row the year. Normally it should have markings in the corresponding month/day/year boxes. Either punched out, or a dot of ink or a cross or something. Although I've seen unmarked ones as well. Other than that, no purpose. Hard to tell what yours said since you went from "zoomed out too far to see" to "closeup and I'm already ripping it off" in the blink of an eye. ;)
The sticker shows the last warrantied maintenance annual inspection date from when the machine was last opened and serviced by a dealer/company authorized service technician. If it was never serviced the date indicated on the sticker should reflect its manufacturing date, if it were later serviced for defective hardware or serviced for an upgrade it would have a date indicating when the later maintenance occurred. It's a little like saying, warranty void if seal is broken. Authorized service technicians often place tamper proof stickers on their contracted work, especially after servicing warrantied hardware.
Okay, completely unrelated to the video, BUT GOD DAMN IS THIS INTRO THE MOST SATISFYING THING IN THE WORLD? I'm not kidding, i could sit here playing it on loop over and over and it would still feel just as good as it did last time.
LinusTechTips mentioned you in a new video he uploaded (2 minutes ago). Search for "The TINIEST Nvidia SLI Setup Ever?" Skip to 5:00 Thumps up so The 8-Bit Guy can see it! :D
Don't feel bad about sharing mistakes, it's amazing that you get past the pride and do. Worth so much more in the end. We all fuck up our projects time to time, and generally, it's how you respond to and deal with the fuckups that matters.
We call these things "Rifa bombs" or in german also "Knallfrosch" which means "Firecracker" ;) :D p.s. please dont just remove them, you can replace them for example by WIMA MKP Y2 which are fairly cheap and much more secure...
Yes the infamous Rifa brand mains capacitors. I had one fail in a vacuum cleaner so that really spread the smoke about. I found some new old stock ones in my capacitors drawer and on those the plastic cases were cracking so would let in moisture. I agree that they shouldn't just be removed. The equipment will probably fail FCC regulations without it
Hey 8-bit guy, really enjoying your videos! A small thing I've been noticing since I've started following you. You definitely improved a lot in the voice recording area, but you may wanna consider getting a couple of acoustic panels for when you're recording in your main room? they're cheap and they will definitely stop your voice from bouncing all over the room, cancelling that weird reverb :) and by the size of your room, I'm pretty sure 4-6 panels near wherever the microphone is will do the job perfectly well. Looking forward to part 3! you rock!
Thank you. More and more computers are going this way. Even business class laptops and such have so much glue and parts that are hard to get and soldered parts and such. Also pretty much everyone I know is fine with a 300 dollar laptop that has very little if anything to fix if it breaks.
+nrdesign1991 well with laptops you usually just replace the motherboard (if you knew soldering I suppose you could swap specific chips over). Ram, harddrive, LCD screen and keyboard is usually pretty damn easy to replace on a laptop. Never tried opening up a tablet though, I could imagine it being very difficult.
David.... thank you so much for the detail on using Retrobrite. I've got a Compaq Portable Plus on my project list and I appreciate you sharing your experiences.
"Hey Margie, that guy across the street is hosin' down his computers again"
Best comment here by far.
lol
"I went to ask him what he was doing and saw him through the window rubbing condiments on his computer!"
Lolololol
Remember to water your computers at least once a week kids!
Rule of thumb: if it's bad to your skin, it's also bad to leather.
When I saw you applying peroxide I immediatley thought about leather damage.
*for
Leather and skin is actually the same product just at different stages. If you skin a person, you're left with unworked leather. I've heard of lampshades made out of human leather. It's not very useful for much else as it's so thin and weak.
You could have stopped the video and prevented the 8 Bit Guy making this mistake!
@@incumbentvinyl9291how tf do you know
@@antiuttpprimewastaken I'm a hunter.
@@incumbentvinyl9291 yeah but THE HUMAN LEATHER PART?
haaa I've never used peroxide to brighten plastic, but have worked with it before. When I saw you did the leather and put it in the sun I said "Oh no..."
I've never worked with it before but I was like: NOOOO DON'T PUT IT ON THE HANDLE
*Let me demonstrate with this mustard*
I love how he could have just used a freaking plate for the example but he did it on top of a computer.
@ice cold and it was the same computer he was working on too
I like that you acknowledge your mistakes--that's something you don't see often in other tech videos ;)
verge pc build guide in a nutshell
"Hey nice suitcase there!"
*pops open the *suitcase**
"It's a computer"
lol
duh.
Future variation:
"Hey is that a watch"
Touches the **watch**
"It's a gaming computer"
Love your work man, old timers that deal with old computers are awesome, lest we forget our roots.
XD great comment.
When we hit late 70s and still remember how to work on these ancient machines the grands will look at us like...oh yeah hes really lost in time now... hehe Creazy how fast time moves on the development of PCs
Holy cow, a wild Proto appeared! Sorta unrelated, but you're awesome for all of your switch giveaways, and regular content in general. (You should definitely remember my username when you're selecting someone to receive a switch btw)
ProtoMario but proto!
ProtoMario is apparently omnipresent
I’m not a computer enthusiast, but the way you go through these restorations got me hooked.
When I saw you wrapping that handle in the retrobrighting "package" I felt somehow bad. My premonition wasn't false.
Still it's good to learn from it.
"Let me demonstrate with this mustard"
Is it wrong that I chuckled for a long time at this? This video is awesome, it was cool to see this come together over two videos. I really do enjoy these restoration projects!
Sorry to see the retro-bright process didn't work so well this time around.
I wonder if those metal covers on the handle can pop off, revealing the rivets underneath them -- then you can drill out the old rivets, remove the handle, and reinstall it with new pop-rivets.
Speaking of the handle -- I would take it to an upholsterer. Someone who does automobile upholstery. Guarantee you they have the skills to fix it -- especially since you've got a picture of what the handle looked like originally. It'd be like re-wrapping a leather-wrapped steering wheel or gear-shift knob on a high-end car. Guarantee you they can get it done for you, no problem.
LMacNeill Assuming they're the same ones, the underside of the panel showed three rivets per end. Not sure if the covers would come loose once the rivets were done...
Hopefully he does this. That handle looked nice
I think it'd be cheaper to buy a broken Osborne computer just for the handle.
.
If he wanted to, he could drill out the rivets and either re-rivet it back on (easy), or tap it and screw it back together (removable!)
He could probably fix it himself as well. ChrisFix (car youtuber) upholstered his whole steering-wheel without any prior knowledge except some research, and it turned out great
Perhaps you could use a paint roller on flat surfaces to get a more even coating
I really like this idea. Maybe a video on multiple retro-bright methods?
Spray bottle.
That would also be an awesome idea! Retro-bright doesn't need to just happen to computers... I've got a whole bunch of yellowed Lego bricks that I'd love to use Retro-bright on. I think it would be great for him to explain different methods for different things
Paint rollers deposit in blotches though, not evenly (and spray everywhere).
Perhaps an ink roller to smooth it out after being applied?
Or spraying on the peroxide?
Or this clever idea of vaporizing the peroxide then letting it condense onto the surface creating an even liquid film. www.google.co.uk/patents/US4512951
He said he has a video on the way about more methods. I messaged him asking how to fix the streaking problem and he said he's making that video
The 0,1uF X cap isn't there to keep the noise out, it's there to keep the noise *in*. Without it the radiated noise from the switching frequency will increase significantly. It isn't needed for the power supply to work, but technically it is a very good idea to replace it. I'd do the same with those other two 0,01uF X caps while you're at it.
Yes, a cap costs pennies and takes a minute to replace. I'm baffled he just removed it while spending so much time on perfecting the looks.
@@platypusfrenzy says... quite a bit about this channel. I do love this channel and am a subscriber, but I sometimes cringe at the mistakes he makes. The leather handle too... what the hell did he THINK would happen? Why would you even apply the cream to something that didn't need it?!?
Aurelius R I totally agree. as soon as I saw him walk away from that sunbathing leather, I knew what was going to happen. I’ve seen that happen a few times to the leather of cars that experienced inevitable scorching temperatures. however, this ridiculousness was not inevitable. david could have easily avoided this rookie mistake. I don’t know what he expected...a retrobrited handle? I would have AT LEAST wrapped the leather with some tape to prevent contact with the cream as well as less sun exposure.
"cringe to use" at 13:06
You used the word perfectly, most people of older generation can't so props to you!
Thank you for doing multi-part videos, it really extends my viewing enjoyment for specific retro units. Single episodes always feel like they are cut short at the end. There is so much lore and nostalgia beyond the restoration that needs to be brought to light.
I was waiting the whole week for this already
EpicLPer Hehe, I don't think you're alone. :)
EpicLPer Me too!
I think we all were 😝😝
EpicLPer super relatable
EpicLPer i did too!
Please keep in mind that The 8-Bit Guy is not a professional museum conservator. (I doubt anyone in the comments section is either.) As an enthusiastic amateur, he does what he does for the purposes of his own pleasure and self-edification, and although he does usually seem to know what he's doing, he's bound to make a few mistakes, but mistakes are one way of learning. The fact that he shows and admits his mistakes is actually quite thoughtful of him and should help others to not make the same mistakes in the future. Furthermore, nothing he has ever restored (or damaged, for that matter) has been exceedingly rare or priceless.
With reference to the leather: there are some applications where it is useful to dampen or soak leather to make it pliable. A quick Google search also reveals that hydrogen peroxide shows up in some leather cleaning solutions, though not at the concentrations found in retrobright. However, soaking leather for any longer than absolutely necessary is a bad idea, especially if it's old or fragile to begin with.
He's not a conservator of any kind. Conservation and restoration are two different things.
H
platypusfrenzy No he’s both. He restores the computers and preserves them inside his museum of computers.
3:11
The capacitor has been incapacitated.
TheMrRuttazzo does anyone know how to do crp on a capacitor
*[ba dum tsss]*
Capacitor had bit the dusk from lithium grease
Yep, after part 1 left me in suspense awaiting part 2, when I saw the notification it came out on my iphone, I swear that was the fastest I've ever finished cutting my lawn. Thanks David, as always awesome work!
I've been binge watching your videos, LGR, obsolete and a few others. I have to say, I enjoy your videos the best. You have excellent attention to detail without dragging it on for so long it gets irritating. I love your content and how you go about solving the problems you are presented with. Excellent work! KUTGW
Make a video of you taking it to Starbucks.
Ali the retro kid HIPSTERS!
That was comedy GOLD! Think about it. "Do you have WiFi?, Wait, this thing never HEARD of WiFi!."
My Apple Watch has bigger screen!
Get a serial modem and ask to use their landline.
please do this!!
My entire life seems to revolve around waiting for the next episode.
The mustard and ketchup analogy cracked me up! 😃
Perhaps someone could make you some 3D printed custom basins for you to use for submerging items in hydrogen peroxide?
There already exist big, transparent plastic containers
Wouldn't it just be better to get some clear totes from a store, fill it up with peroxide, and just leave it out in the sun?
a big plastic tub will work fine its the peroxide thats the problem he would need gallons of the stuff
Would it be possible to synthesize it?
Well, of course off the shelf is what's cheapest and easiest obviously, but I was thinking something that would help him keep the components in place or shaped to fit better. Just an idea. ;)
these videos are my "go-to" series of videos this month, while coding, I listen to your soothing voice. Plus such a walk down memory lane!
I have no idea exactly why...but I REALLY enjoy these cleanup videos. I really like the differences from old to re-done and you explain the processes in great - but never too much - detail.
I like that you show mistakes as well as successes.
I have to assume you have a standing order somewhere for deliveries of baking soda, WD40, Windex and denatured alcohol. :)
Maggie McFee v
And toothbrushes
And lithium grease!
I was screaming NOOOO as you were getting it on the leather, it was so obvious that was going to ruin it.
Dave D I was sure he was going to give it a pre-wrap to protect it :(
Dave D He should have cut a slit in the plastic wrap for it.
No, he should have just wrapped the leather 1st to avoid getting the peroxide on it at all, it was obviously going to damage the old fragile leather
Dave D No, it really wasn't obvious. Peroxide can be used to clean leather. (Got a blood stain on leather? That's right... PEROXIDE.) It's also used in the production of leather because it's more environmentally friendly than the old liming process. Either the solution was too strong, or that handle is some sort of synthetic instead of real leather. (Maybe both.)
It was obvious to me or i wouldn't have said it and i was right...
Can't wait for part 3. I love learning about old computers
I commend you for doing this work, it shows a lot of love for these old machines to put so much effort into restoring them, even if it doesn't always go as planned.
Honestly I really like that not all these videos are a success, it works as a warning and keeps the videos more exciting
Like
Watching a middle aged man clean and assemble old computers exciting
It's the best
For application of the peroxide, maybe a car window squeegee? or maybe a paint roller?
I can only imagine the cramp in the neck and the eye strain one would get from staring into that tiny little screen for any length of time....
Matthew Swanson youd get glaucoma
Ezra Salayandia You don't really know what glaucoma is, do you? It's when fluid builds up in your eye and puts pressure on your optic nerve, causing nerve damage.
TL;DR: No, you wouldn't get glaucoma. It doesn't work that way.
SpearM3064 i know what it is lol, i'm a nursing student i just thought it was funny. Not trying to be smart about it.
Sub G Im not sure why you would decide to look at your watch for minutes, hours straight, that would really strain your arm.
7:12 I really like the design of the power cord / fuse cover, its impossible to remove the fuse when a power lead is in and impossible to put a lead in when the fuse cover is open. Cool.
I would never be able to put that Osborne back together...Very impressive, great work!
I barely had the patience to assemble the ~15 pre-made parts to "build" my modern computer. Props to you for managing something like this!
I think you may have your example backwards. UV light is the catalyst, and if you have a lot of build up of the peroxide cream, you're probably not getting a whole lot of UV light hitting the plastic.
Pretty sure its a catalyst with the peroxide, not the plastic. UV light by itself is what caused the yellowing in the first place.
What if you try using a spray gun so the layer is consistent?
Maybe several applications and rinsing would be necessary so the layer can be thinner.
I was thinking the same. A spray gun would let you apply a thin and more even coating. Also, the peroxide mix looked too strong.
maybe a squirt bottle instead?
Spray gun just seemed more time effective. Plus, the nozzle on a spray gun gets a more even distribution.
nunya baznus
Do you want to know WHY Oxyclean works? Because it's about 40% sodium percarbonate.
"But what is sodium percarbonate?"
Look it up if you don't believe me: It's "an anhydrous source OF HYDROGEN PEROXIDE".
In other words: Same shit, but it's a powder instead of a liquid.
It's from a beauty supply store (Sally's). It's not some super hard to get industrial stuff.
im 13 and i love old style computers and your videos are very informative and interesting to watch keep it up man
Sup fellow youthful enthusiast i am also 13 btw love the profile pic W.D.G
Just watching the amount of dedication you put into fixing all of those computers and keyboards really entertains me.
I can't wait for part 3!
Maaaan I was so worried when I saw the leather getting retro-bright'd. I was hoping it was gonna get wrapped.
Glad you documented it afterwards though, it's a very useful lesson that might help others in the future.
There are 3 film capacitors that need to be replaced in Osborne PSU's. You only replaced the one that popped. It'll be letting the smoke out again very soon.
Exactly what was going through my head.
The same thing happened to my Apple IIE platinum. Luckily I had a spare capacitor laying around to replace it.
What's wrong with these capacitors, why do they fail this way? I thought non-electrolytic capacitors are bulletproof and don't age.
@@VioletGiraffe search for RIFA X caps, they're a known source of failure. E.g. minuszerodegrees.net/failure.htm
Those RIFA line filter capacitors are notorious for popping and emitting smoke.
6:25 that sticker was probably intended to register the date of purchase. See how it has numbers for months, days and years.
That's what I thought, too.
I would rather say it's some sort of maintenance register. Also this computer was produced from 1981 to 1983 but the sticker reaches up to 1989. I've seen these stickers on quit a few other devices too.
I think it was the date of manufacture, not purchase. They use them to track batches for if there's a problem with the assembly process.
I need to assimilate that shirt!
the repair-man strikes again! awesome work. so nice to see those old things out turning looking like new again.
Your videos are so fun. It's so satisfying to watch, whenever you turn around a piece of junk.
That Rifa capacitor is extremely well known for blowing itself up. It can be exchanged for a same value capacitor (I've done so several times on vintage test gear).
To polish rusty chrome use steel wool grade #OOOO, it will shine right up and take down pitting slightly.
Agreed,.
David Wrocklage Aluminum foil with just a little water works good too. I've tried both on chrome and liked the shine left by aluminum better.
something in the computer: *seized up*
lithium grease: *i'm about to end this man's whole career*
more like restart it
Dirt: *exists*
WD 40: I can fix it.
I've got to say, having not grown up with old computers such as this and therefore not seeing them with that nostalgic sense of importance, just watching these restoration videos really makes me appreciate the history which they're part of. Even though I'd have no use for one, I feel compelled to get one to restore myself as I know the process is something that I'd enjoy.
I wish I had learned this stuff years ago. Glad to see you preserving the past, hopefully for a better future.
**puts mustard on chasis**
: whoa, that escalated quickly
im a 17 year old girl and i have no idea why im watching this but its so satisfying
The man exudes pure sexuality, that's why we're all here.
Looks like you are over 18 now I would like to talk to you xoxoxo
Jesse Bélanger lol I'm sorry you think that, but yes it actually works and no I do not do that honking thing idk where you get that from
damn! Skipping the comments, i hoped you were a cute retro geek, no offense. ;D
Guys, just remember, there is no such thing as a girl on the internet
Hey! So I know how to answer your leather handle "problem"
I've done this procedure multiple times on old suitcases I find in my uncle's garage (I like to look for old valuable computers there it's it's all suitcases)
So there is no way to FIX or REPLACE the leather, what I do is literally take the leather handle off by cutting the leather wrapping around the metal rings. You then cut off the strings (At 10:20) one by one as carefully as possible (as you need a reference to your remake of the handle) and pull the leather into a straight piece and unfold it. Now as for the sponge, as I would recommend, just use a new one (Cause it might crust) and also measure how long and how thick the sponge is. Afther measurements, you then you go to your local fabric shop (Idk where you can buy this in the U.K., U.S., or Austrailia, as I live in Asia) buy a small strip of any type of leather (a.k.a. color and which animal) and any type of foam. And then you have to start drawing and measuring where you stitch and where the leather overlaps.
I know this sounds confusing and hard, but if you have any questions, ask!
Good day and good luck restoring!
Another great video Dave. Seeing the breakdown of the Osborne was excellent and I really enjoy how you handle your restorations.
Hey, David, Awesome video and I can't wait for the next one! About the streaking when you apply the retrobright cream. Have you considered using a small paint roller? Specifically a mini foam roller with a light amount of pressure. It's what professional painters use when painting with glossy surface paint to get a streak-free finish. That should reduce the streaking you get from the brush, at least on the larger pieces.
The RIFA capacitor filters actually current going back to the outlet. so it's a good Idea to put a newer KEMET or Panasonic (i like to use Panasonic) capacitor back in that circuit .
That intro....just..perfect
Nocturnall yep LOAD "$",8 really loads a program definitely not the directory of the disk
Sounds like the starting of one of those weird acted afterschool movies trying to teach kids Morales
Get a large plastic container from Walmart, lowes or biglots. They usually have a top. I got one recently that fit a chandelier. It'll take a lot of peroxide to submerge it, but I really can't think of another way.
On the plus side, if you fill up a container full of it you'll be able to quickly retrobrite anything else that's large
Zellio2011 Keep in mind that hydrogen peroxide has a relatively short shelf life before it eventually reverts to mere water and oxygen (2xH2O2 to 2xH2O plus O2) and becomes too weak to react much. That really cuts into the economics of maintaining gallons of it in a large vat for future projects, particularly given that the larger the container the more difficult it is to tightly seal, protect from heat, vibration, and UV (just the sunlight exposure it is subject to will accelerate the breakdown into water and oxygen, so likely only a use or two before it becomes too weak).
Could you use a sprayer setup with a pump in the bottom of the container and have the surfaces kept wet and the fluid constantly being refreshed. If you could set up a set of nozzles such that every side would be kept wet perhaps that would eliminate streaks and reduce the amount of peroxide you needed to have.
Yeah guys I realize this. Hell, those big plastic containers I mentioned are generally cheaply made and thin and wouldn't hold up to being filled with a watery substance anyway (For long at least, eventually it would wear out, and esp. if you moved it). This is something you'd want done in 2-3 days
But if you have a lot of things to retrobrite and 2-3 off days, it sounds like a good idea to me
Thanks for showing us the mistakes and the process you go through. Personally, I'd rather see a two- or three-part series with interesting detail as you have done, than a single episode with a synopsis of the procedure and a large cut scene to the final result.
I could literally watch your restoration videos, both keys and 'puters, for hours and hours.
I love your shirt
oh ok, I'll go do that now
xD
Wesley Van Pelt Best comeback XD
Shut up, Wesley!
Wesley Van Pelt he wears like 4 different shirts in this vid
I wonder if ozzy osbourne had an osborne computer
I wonder if the Addams Family had an Adam computer
Mason Pelzer I wonder if Michael Dell had a... oh... wait...
Then I guess it's clear what computer Fiona Apple use[d].
That's not a paradox. It would be a coincidence at best.
I sadly didn't own one :(
Some plastics also chemically react to alcohol and hydrogen peroxide. Some plastics also have a clear coat on them, your retro-brighting process might be removing said clear coat. This happened to me once while trying to clean a plastic part, i left some alcohol on it thinking it would evaporate, but instead it left a streaking pattern. No UV light was involved. So please consider the fact that an actual chemical reaction, and not the uneven coats are causing the pattern. This would also explain why some of your past attempts at this technique were quite successful and not met with the same difficulties.
The streaking seems related to the thickness at the area. I also think it's not related to UV at all. One possible solution is to apply a constant thickness, and minimal. No fat chunks! And do not apply extra, but simply spray with peroxide mist at intervals to prevent drying. Whenever I've had streaks, it was due to drying. Peroxide solution is best IMO since the hair product contains other chemicals that might interfere.
Hey David, I have watched this video at least 10 times, I enjoy your restoration videos very much! In a different video you mentioned that the heat method works well, but it is difficult to do for big pieces. My suggestion would be to use a large plastic container and a Sous Vide circulator, which can warm up the water (although you would be better starting off with warm water) and can keep it steady at a specified temperature, while circulating the water around the container. They can cost around $100-$150 but could help out a lot with your retrobriting!
I could watch a full feature film of you restoring old computers. It's the best!
YOU HAVE BEEN FEATURED ON LIBUS TECH TIPS. CONGRATULATIONS
Bike-Print-Sleep whonis libus?
128k views “very retro”
Eben ismanuel 144k now, hooray for floppy disks! (that _was_ a floppy disk size right)
Eben ismanuel 446
512k views. now we're in the future of storage.
992k now
993 k views
5 screws on the cover should be the maximum allowed in any electronic device.
Don't remind me of the pain of replacing the HDD on a clamshell iBook(basically taking the computer apart)
[cough cough] Compaq Portable I keyboard [cough cough]
Nintendo seemed to have a screw fetish when they made the Wii :/
*laughs in Xbox 360*
@@mrbisshie Haha yes
I'm hooked on these restoration videos! You do a really nice job of showing everything you're doing, why, and the result no matter the outcome. Oh, and btw, I always thought these early computers were MADE in beige plastic! Never realized they were all grey when they were new!
Your channel is freaking awesome dude, I am an electronic technician, and I love when you fix this kind of devices, I love your channel, Greetings from Peru, Blessings
It still looks far better than it did.
Perhaps if you just go through the retro-bright process several times then eventually it will all reach a point where it's as bright as it can get? I mean, it can't keep getting lighter and lighter forever, right?
You'd be surprised, it would probably just get sunbleached and discoloured. You can make it brighter but you can't make it back darker
Spongebob... your.. S U N B L E A C H E D !
The more times you retro bright te lighter it gets and it can destroy your plastic
What about vaccuforming a mold so that it is slightly larger than the actual cover you are attempting to retrobrite? Then maybe some form of injection system create an even layer of the retrobrite in an attempt to reduce streaking? Just a strange thought.
it still need the sunlight (or UV light). But it might by taping slanted pieces to the side , and vacuum forming that.
Another idea i had was vacuum forming the inside into a filler. That way a large enough container (aquarium) can be used to completely immerge the piece , but no peroxide is wasted on the inside of the case.
An airbrush to spread an even coat and a clear case would work.
I just use a spray bottle set to stun... I mean mist.
How I do it:
I don't use retrobright, I just use a plant mister + peroxide. I use a UV lamp in a mylar lined cardboard box. Seriously, that's it. I have never ever had streaking problems or anything of the sort, and all of it is super easy to obtain, cheaply and in good supply. It's easy to use, pretty much set it and forget it.
Oh yeah, that would work for sure, but David has mentioned before that he prefers to use the sun because it takes a few hours instead of days, and he's a busy guy.
Well if you live in Texas... to some of us the sun is a scarce resource :-D
I'm in SoCal where it's sunny every weekday when I'm at work and overcast every weekend when I'm off. dafuk!?
what procentage of peroxide do you use?
I use 5-8% concentration Storm Peroxide from Home Depot. 3% topical will work too if you don't mind waiting a bit longer and buying up a bit more. I collect it in a bin and refill the feeder every so often and that seems to work great.
For some reason, I find watching this VERY satisfying and calming.
A third part? It's like christmas in July!
You could take a big bin for the larger parts fill it just a little bit with hydrogen peroxide side and put a UV light under the bin.
You now have enough subscribers to warrant you putting in some good research effort and a bit of money into getting plastics restoration right. A lot of people want to be taught how to do it correctly, and you are really well placed to show people how. You have been standing behind the 'amateur' banner for a while now, and you've learned some good valuable lessons, so it would be great to see you experiment with techniques on less valuable plastics and let us all know what the best processes are. Half a Million subscribers, let's see you step up your game. Thanks. Love the videos by the way.
6:26 - That sticker just shows the manufacturing date. It seems the top row is the month, the middle row the day, and the bottom row the year. Normally it should have markings in the corresponding month/day/year boxes. Either punched out, or a dot of ink or a cross or something. Although I've seen unmarked ones as well.
Other than that, no purpose.
Hard to tell what yours said since you went from "zoomed out too far to see" to "closeup and I'm already ripping it off" in the blink of an eye. ;)
The sticker shows the last warrantied maintenance annual inspection date from when the machine was last opened and serviced by a dealer/company authorized service technician. If it was never serviced the date indicated on the sticker should reflect its manufacturing date, if it were later serviced for defective hardware or serviced for an upgrade it would have a date indicating when the later maintenance occurred. It's a little like saying, warranty void if seal is broken. Authorized service technicians often place tamper proof stickers on their contracted work, especially after servicing warrantied hardware.
Here's one for the "Out of context" compilation 11:42
Thanks for sharing this video and with the mistakes included so we can use it as experience!
Okay, completely unrelated to the video, BUT GOD DAMN IS THIS INTRO THE MOST SATISFYING THING IN THE WORLD? I'm not kidding, i could sit here playing it on loop over and over and it would still feel just as good as it did last time.
S&M leather in Wisconsin does wonders. and no that s and m is not that you think it is, it's the owners initials.
Yeah, but Wisconsin is a little far away from Texas.
they do snail mail service. just FYI
Hey! You let the magic smoke out!!!
LinusTechTips mentioned you in a new video he uploaded (2 minutes ago). Search for "The TINIEST Nvidia SLI Setup Ever?" Skip to 5:00
Thumps up so The 8-Bit Guy can see it! :D
100th like
and I also seen the tiniest sli setup video either
@Universal Link well thats because its an old video
its really satisfing see a good guy works harder for a porpouse, life is not perfect. thanks for the video and we wait for part 3.
Don't feel bad about sharing mistakes, it's amazing that you get past the pride and do. Worth so much more in the end. We all fuck up our projects time to time, and generally, it's how you respond to and deal with the fuckups that matters.
"It doesn't make me cringe to use it," 😄😂
We call these things "Rifa bombs" or in german also "Knallfrosch" which means "Firecracker" ;) :D
p.s. please dont just remove them, you can replace them for example by WIMA MKP Y2 which are fairly cheap and much more secure...
Yes the infamous Rifa brand mains capacitors. I had one fail in a vacuum cleaner so that really spread the smoke about. I found some new old stock ones in my capacitors drawer and on those the plastic cases were cracking so would let in moisture. I agree that they shouldn't just be removed. The equipment will probably fail FCC regulations without it
the name of the computer reminds me of rockstar Ozzy Osbourne.
I like the way the new intro resolves itself at the end.
Hey 8-bit guy, really enjoying your videos!
A small thing I've been noticing since I've started following you. You definitely improved a lot in the voice recording area, but you may wanna consider getting a couple of acoustic panels for when you're recording in your main room? they're cheap and they will definitely stop your voice from bouncing all over the room, cancelling that weird reverb :) and by the size of your room, I'm pretty sure 4-6 panels near wherever the microphone is will do the job perfectly well.
Looking forward to part 3! you rock!
wish computers now a days were this repairable I might be able to get a job doing what I like fixing computers.
Actually, they are! just replacement parts, ram, video, etc.
It's actually very easily repairable these days
You forget the laptop and tablet market, where almost everything is soldered onto the board - Ever tried replacing a soldered BGA part? I guess not!
Thank you. More and more computers are going this way. Even business class laptops and such have so much glue and parts that are hard to get and soldered parts and such.
Also pretty much everyone I know is fine with a 300 dollar laptop that has very little if anything to fix if it breaks.
+nrdesign1991 well with laptops you usually just replace the motherboard (if you knew soldering I suppose you could swap specific chips over).
Ram, harddrive, LCD screen and keyboard is usually pretty damn easy to replace on a laptop.
Never tried opening up a tablet though, I could imagine it being very difficult.
Linus kinda gave you a shoutout in his latest video
can I retro bright my teeth lol
Uh, yes, you can. Hydrogen Peroxide gel is what's in those teeth-whitening kits.
Probably shouldn't roll your own solution, though, unless you know what you're doing. :P
just b careful removing them and id use plastic bags on the driveway method
Peroxide and UV is exactly what they use to whiten people's teeth, so yes. Just don't do it yourself.
Oh yes you can : brush you teeth after breakfast, after lunch and after dinner. Avoid coca cola. Avoid coffee, avoid tea. Avoid smoking.
8-bit Guy I don't know why, but watching your videos...soothes me
I really like your new intro, its a lot more pleasing than the old one.
You where mentioned in the latest Linus Tech Tips video called "The TINIEST Nvidia SLI Setup EVER?
" :)
well i was partially wrong, i think i guessed a filter cap in the powersupply but it was just the across the line cap.
Who’s watching this on a Osbourne 1 computer?
Way more entertaining than I anticipated! Tx for sharing your successes and failures.
David.... thank you so much for the detail on using Retrobrite. I've got a Compaq Portable Plus on my project list and I appreciate you sharing your experiences.