This video is just what i was looking for! Just got a 24 500 exc. Im 220 lbs without gear... so, gotta stiffen both ends. The rear PDS is easy. I didnt realize how basic the spring change was. At least you made it look simple. Would you turn them upside down with the cap off and drain the oil into a bucket? Does the rebound adjuster need to be removed first?
Did this today. Piece of cake. One tip and a couple of questions/observations that have me thinking. First the suggestion if you are looking for a way to grip the fork to wrench the bolts, I used some rubbery shelf liner and held between my thighs and had a perfect grip to torque them off. Also some observations. I have been using air forks for so long I never noticed you can hear the fluid sloshing around and also I was a little surprised you can also hear the forks sliding in the tubes. Thought maybe it was just my replaced spring into, but noticed the oem one did the same. I guess springs make noises? :)
@@user-pf3ow1tu3f i could not find that in the manual or on WP site. Just tightened as much as I could. The tight thread and aluminum seems to just stop turning at some point. "Tight but not excessive" was the only suggestion I could find. I rode it today and it like night and day how much better it handles sprung for my weight. It’s like a dream :)z
@@JamieKeefer thanks man glad to hear it made a difference for you, I just re sprung mine this morning but wasn’t sure if I should torque that but I’ll just snug it up, enjoy!
Thank you for the video! Is there a need to try to expel any oil left within the cartridge? For example, do you need to pump the cartridge when the spring is off in order to get all of the oil out?
Lowering forks 20mm WP XACT 48mm closed cartridge on a 2024 Husky TE300. Can you show what it takes to get the space kit in. It has 2 components and this video would cover one of them, but getting the space on the piston rod is what I need to learn. Any videos or links would be helpful.
Hello: Just unscrew the spring guide (black plastic fluted piece) , remove the spindle from the cartridge, install the spacer on the spindle then re-install.
New to rebuilding forks, just did a set on my 2004 450 exc and recently bought a 2024 500 excf, after installing the springs for my weight, and adding the oil, is there no need to bleed any air out like the ones I did on my old bike? Thank you.
Did the stock spring already come with the correct spacers? I assume if the stock spring is 470mm and the replacement springs are also 470mm the appropriate spacers are already installed from the factory, is this correct? Thank you for the helpful video!
Edit #2: Like a dummy I was measuring the spring as it sat on the cartridge. The spring is 4 inches shorter when on the cartridge due to the small amount of compression from the retaining spacer on the bottom. Long story short measure the spring when removed. Also my 24 forks need 350ml of oil to get within 1 inch of bottoming. at 385 the were only going 2 inches from bottoming out. Edit: Just a note that 24 300XCW owners manual says 476mm with preload spacer. I went up one spring rate over OEM (4.4 OEM and I have 4.6) instead of two. Of note the springs end in even numbers so there is not 4.5 for example... 4.4, 4.6, 4.8, 5.0 etc. My thoughts were to soften up the stiffer chassis feel. Im right on the edge of needing two spring rates but like stated above I went up only one. After 50 hours it's been really good. As stated below my length was 474 OEM with spacer and is now 478 which is 2mm above the manual 476. To me the extra spacer of 4mm has the effect of about 4 clicks of compression...it's very noticable. This gives me the holdup Im looking for with the plushness of a fork that is 20 clicks out. Arizona chunky rocks hard enduro with big hits is the bikes purpose. Can easily click down to 16 out for faster pace days. To me a 4mm spacer has the effect of 4 clicks firmer compression or going up one spring rate (turns a 4.6 into a 4.8 not accounting for the minimal compression the preload induces....meaning I understand a 4.6 with a preload spacer isnt the same as a 4.8 without one). Hopefully this is helpful info to somebody out there. Great video. My OEM only had one spacer of 4mm so I was at 474. Added another 4mm spacer to get to 478. Will expect the test ride today to show me the Fork now has a little more preload.
Thanks for your input. These are my findings: I have the same bike as you and the manual calls for 476mm. From what I can find, the 450 xcfw calls for 478 mm. The preload spacers come in 1.5, 2.5, and 3.5 mm. My new 4.8 springs are 470mm and with the factory 3.5mm spacer installed there is a 1/2 mm gap between the spring/spacers and extended damper rod,meaning it takes a minimum of 474mm to take up the space before preload begins. (factory spring measures 471.5mm plus 3.5mm spacer equals 475mm) The important thing to remember is that as you add preload, you have to adjust fork height to maintain the same fork angle/wheelbase.
Hi buddy what’s happen if you change the spring in wp forks that only have spring in one leg? The ktm 1290 Super adventure R 2021+ have preload adjustment in both legs but only one visible spring in one leg, I it is 6.5nm I’m looking to put 7.0nm, but I don’t know if that will cause problem as the other leg don’t have spring. Thanks
If you could give any insight Bike : 2024 excf 350 Stock 72 nm rear spring (Straight rate) Stock 4.6nm front springs (I do not know what valving the front or rear has) Rider: 5’10” 160lbs with all gear My question: would it be an improvement to reduce my spring rate and be at the high (lbs)end of the spring rate window or leave them as is and be at the low (lbs) end of the spring rate window?
Hello: You will increase comfort by going down one size on both ends. slavensracing.com/shop/fork-springs-wp48mm-44mm-x-470mm/ slavensracing.com/shop/shock-springs-straight-rate-for-24-ktm-pds-linkless/
Awesome! Thank you! By the way, I called and spoke with Tracey today. Could not have been more impressed with the knowledge and help I received. Thank you for all your efforts!
@@slaverace1 what if oil leaking from hole where is inner cartridge? :) are you going to prepare video with complete oil change and maintenance on these forks? 🙂
@@slaverace1 To make sure I understand before I start putting my fork apart. The oil that comes from the breathing hole is not the inner cartridge oil? If I flip the cartridge upside down to get the spring out, won't the inner cartridge oil get out from that hole?
@@martinchalupa Hello Sir: You are over-thinking the process. It's very simple. Remove the cartridge and replace the spring. It does not matter if you flip it upside down, it is a sealed unit. Just do it.
A gentleman at a local suspension shop just told me that the 385 ml of oil was too much and that the forks would never fully compress. He recommends starting at 300 and moving up from there. I haven't been able to find any other opinions on this change.
Hello Sonic Tripper: The factory specs are 175cc for the cartridge and 390cc for the outer chamber. You are welcome to make whatever variations you desire but at 300cc you will likely have bottoming issues. Happy trails, JS
I agree it seems wrong but some allowance should be made for the thicker .48 springs I bought right? Maybe I'll use water displacement to find out how much more material there is.
@@SonicTripTronic Hello: When increasing the spring rate, which usually means a larger wire diameter, you can make small reductions in the oil volume to compensate.
i have a 2024 xcw150 absolutley the worst suspension of any bike i own. despite being valved and sprung for weight and ability ( which made them a lot better) they still suck. im considering a kyb adaptation or maybe the 6500 series cartridge, but i have little faith in WP.
Hello: KYBs are designed for the flex characteristics of Japanese aluminum frame bikes, bad idea. 6500s are for MX, very harsh for enduro/trail riding. Our Slavens Mule MXT Raven fork cartridges slavensracing.com/shop/slavens-mule-mx-tech-raven-cartridge-system/ are the only ones designed, valved and sprung for offroad. They suck up the trail trash, are extremely stable and have amazing bottoming resistance. Pair them with our Slavens Mule MXT National shock slavensracing.com/shop/slavens-mule-national-shock-mxt/ and you will be in heaven.
Very informative,made it look easy. Think I will order a set.
Go for it!
Yeah beats spending $1000 bucks somewhere.
excellent video, thanks!
You're welcome sir.
This video is just what i was looking for! Just got a 24 500 exc. Im 220 lbs without gear... so, gotta stiffen both ends. The rear PDS is easy. I didnt realize how basic the spring change was. At least you made it look simple.
Would you turn them upside down with the cap off and drain the oil into a bucket?
Does the rebound adjuster need to be removed first?
Did this today. Piece of cake. One tip and a couple of questions/observations that have me thinking. First the suggestion if you are looking for a way to grip the fork to wrench the bolts, I used some rubbery shelf liner and held between my thighs and had a perfect grip to torque them off. Also some observations. I have been using air forks for so long I never noticed you can hear the fluid sloshing around and also I was a little surprised you can also hear the forks sliding in the tubes. Thought maybe it was just my replaced spring into, but noticed the oem one did the same. I guess springs make noises? :)
What is the torque spec for the bottom of the fork? The 22 mm part
@@user-pf3ow1tu3f i could not find that in the manual or on WP site. Just tightened as much as I could. The tight thread and aluminum seems to just stop turning at some point. "Tight but not excessive" was the only suggestion I could find. I rode it today and it like night and day how much better it handles sprung for my weight. It’s like a dream :)z
@@JamieKeefer thanks man glad to hear it made a difference for you, I just re sprung mine this morning but wasn’t sure if I should torque that but I’ll just snug it up, enjoy!
@@user-pf3ow1tu3f let me know if you find it. I intend to monitor and continue looking as well and will do the same. ✌🏻
Thank you for the video! Is there a need to try to expel any oil left within the cartridge? For example, do you need to pump the cartridge when the spring is off in order to get all of the oil out?
Hello:
If you want to change the fluid, yes you need to stroke the spindle.
Lowering forks 20mm WP XACT 48mm closed cartridge on a 2024 Husky TE300. Can you show what it takes to get the space kit in. It has 2 components and this video would cover one of them, but getting the space on the piston rod is what I need to learn. Any videos or links would be helpful.
Hello:
Just unscrew the spring guide (black plastic fluted piece) , remove the spindle from the cartridge, install the spacer on the spindle then re-install.
New to rebuilding forks, just did a set on my 2004 450 exc and recently bought a 2024 500 excf, after installing the springs for my weight, and adding the oil, is there no need to bleed any air out like the ones I did on my old bike? Thank you.
Hello:
If you did not change the fluid, it does not need re-bled.
Thanks for the video
Our pleasure!
Great video
Glad you enjoyed it
Did the stock spring already come with the correct spacers? I assume if the stock spring is 470mm and the replacement springs are also 470mm the appropriate spacers are already installed from the factory, is this correct?
Thank you for the helpful video!
That is correct, but some riders prefer to run more preload.
@@slaverace1 Thank you for the reply and the VERY helpful and informative content!
To be clear. Can you remove a few millimeters of preload by pulling a spacer on a stock spring and that is ok? Thanks!
Why do you want to change the fork spring preload?
Edit #2: Like a dummy I was measuring the spring as it sat on the cartridge. The spring is 4 inches shorter when on the cartridge due to the small amount of compression from the retaining spacer on the bottom. Long story short measure the spring when removed. Also my 24 forks need 350ml of oil to get within 1 inch of bottoming. at 385 the were only going 2 inches from bottoming out.
Edit: Just a note that 24 300XCW owners manual says 476mm with preload spacer. I went up one spring rate over OEM (4.4 OEM and I have 4.6) instead of two. Of note the springs end in even numbers so there is not 4.5 for example... 4.4, 4.6, 4.8, 5.0 etc. My thoughts were to soften up the stiffer chassis feel. Im right on the edge of needing two spring rates but like stated above I went up only one. After 50 hours it's been really good. As stated below my length was 474 OEM with spacer and is now 478 which is 2mm above the manual 476. To me the extra spacer of 4mm has the effect of about 4 clicks of compression...it's very noticable. This gives me the holdup Im looking for with the plushness of a fork that is 20 clicks out. Arizona chunky rocks hard enduro with big hits is the bikes purpose. Can easily click down to 16 out for faster pace days. To me a 4mm spacer has the effect of 4 clicks firmer compression or going up one spring rate (turns a 4.6 into a 4.8 not accounting for the minimal compression the preload induces....meaning I understand a 4.6 with a preload spacer isnt the same as a 4.8 without one). Hopefully this is helpful info to somebody out there.
Great video. My OEM only had one spacer of 4mm so I was at 474. Added another 4mm spacer to get to 478. Will expect the test ride today to show me the Fork now has a little more preload.
Thanks for your input. These are my findings: I have the same bike as you and the manual calls for 476mm. From what I can find, the 450 xcfw calls for 478 mm. The preload spacers come in 1.5, 2.5, and 3.5 mm. My new 4.8 springs are 470mm and with the factory 3.5mm spacer installed there is a 1/2 mm gap between the spring/spacers and extended
damper rod,meaning it takes a minimum of 474mm to take up the space before preload begins. (factory spring measures 471.5mm plus 3.5mm spacer equals 475mm) The important thing to remember is that as you add preload, you have to adjust fork height to maintain the same fork angle/wheelbase.
Hi buddy what’s happen if you change the spring in wp forks that only have spring in one leg?
The ktm 1290 Super adventure R 2021+ have preload adjustment in both legs but only one visible spring in one leg, I it is 6.5nm I’m looking to put 7.0nm, but I don’t know if that will cause problem as the other leg don’t have spring. Thanks
Hello:
Sorry, but your forks do not have preload adjusters and only one spring is required. slavensracing.com/shop/fork-springs-ktm-1090r-1290r/
If you could give any insight Bike :
2024 excf 350
Stock 72 nm rear spring (Straight rate)
Stock 4.6nm front springs
(I do not know what valving the front or rear has)
Rider:
5’10”
160lbs with all gear
My question: would it be an improvement to reduce my spring rate and be at the high (lbs)end of the spring rate window or leave them as is and be at the low (lbs) end of the spring rate window?
Hello:
You will increase comfort by going down one size on both ends.
slavensracing.com/shop/fork-springs-wp48mm-44mm-x-470mm/
slavensracing.com/shop/shock-springs-straight-rate-for-24-ktm-pds-linkless/
Hello! Thanks for the great video. If you need to go in and replace the spring or preload spacer on a new fork (low hours), can you reuse the oil?
Yes, no problem.
Awesome! Thank you! By the way, I called and spoke with Tracey today. Could not have been more impressed with the knowledge and help I received. Thank you for all your efforts!
If i want to set spring preload will i have to put new oil to closed cartridge too? Or only in outer chamber? And closed cartridge stay filled? Thanks
Hello:
You will only need to refill and set the oil level in the outer chamber.
@@slaverace1 what if oil leaking from hole where is inner cartridge? :) are you going to prepare video with complete oil change and maintenance on these forks? 🙂
@@MartinPodzimek
Hello: The hole in the inner cartridge just releases excess fluid in the cartridge.
@@slaverace1 To make sure I understand before I start putting my fork apart. The oil that comes from the breathing hole is not the inner cartridge oil? If I flip the cartridge upside down to get the spring out, won't the inner cartridge oil get out from that hole?
@@martinchalupa
Hello Sir:
You are over-thinking the process. It's very simple. Remove the cartridge and replace the spring. It does not matter if you flip it upside down, it is a sealed unit. Just do it.
A gentleman at a local suspension shop just told me that the 385 ml of oil was too much and that the forks would never fully compress. He recommends starting at 300 and moving up from there. I haven't been able to find any other opinions on this change.
Hello Sonic Tripper:
The factory specs are 175cc for the cartridge and 390cc for the outer chamber. You are welcome to make whatever variations you desire but at 300cc you will likely have bottoming issues.
Happy trails,
JS
I agree it seems wrong but some allowance should be made for the thicker .48 springs I bought right? Maybe I'll use water displacement to find out how much more material there is.
@@SonicTripTronic
Hello: When increasing the spring rate, which usually means a larger wire diameter, you can make small reductions in the oil volume to compensate.
i have a 2024 xcw150 absolutley the worst suspension of any bike i own. despite being valved and sprung for weight and ability ( which made them a lot better) they still suck. im considering a kyb adaptation or maybe the 6500 series cartridge, but i have little faith in WP.
Hello:
KYBs are designed for the flex characteristics of Japanese aluminum frame bikes, bad idea. 6500s are for MX, very harsh for enduro/trail riding.
Our Slavens Mule MXT Raven fork cartridges slavensracing.com/shop/slavens-mule-mx-tech-raven-cartridge-system/ are the only ones designed, valved and sprung for offroad. They suck up the trail trash, are extremely stable and have amazing bottoming resistance.
Pair them with our Slavens Mule MXT National shock slavensracing.com/shop/slavens-mule-national-shock-mxt/ and you will be in heaven.