Great video Jeff! Everything went just as explained! "Torqueaholic" made me chuckle!! Slaven's Racing had everything in stock to get the job done!! Thanks!
Can you clarify why you put in 1.75 bar when the manual recommends 1.2? I can understand over filling initially due to equalization with the atmosphere and losing some pressure but after final bleeding is completed shouldn't you lower or raise the pressure in the bladder back to 1.2 bar for final assembly?
Thanks for the video! I have one concern: after the bladder is fully inflated you suggest to compress the cartrige 4 times. The problem is after it is fully compressed it does not go back to the fully extended position by itself. So I have to force it and when I extend it the air comes into the cartrige. Is it OK to have the air in the cartrige? Or is anything wrong with my cartrige as it sucks the air into itself when extended?
hi jeff , first time doing my 08 450 xcf fork seals , two questions do i need to service the bladder and cartridge when i replace my seals .. and if i dont need to service it how do i know how much oil is needed ? ... thank you so much for these videos ! your step by steps are great !! -kyle-
At 330cc you will have metal to metal when bottoming. The minimum I use is 350 but usually use 360-365. RT makes good suspension tools but their GVs and springs are pure junk.
Hello, I was wondering if a ball sports pump needle will work for pumping the bladder up? If not, what gauge of needle is that? Great video by the way. Thanks you, Kevin
When I remove the bleed screw, some oil overflows like in the video, but when I try to inflate the bladder to 0.5bar a lot of airbubbles/oil comes out. What wories me is that after every stroke of the pump, oil blurpes out, but the hole doesn't remain filled and air gets in. So after final bleeding and 3-4 strokes of the dampening rod, it doesn't extend fully and when pulled to the maximum by hand, it's pulled back in, so that means it has air, isn't it? What do I make wrong?
Another great video! How do you know how much oil to install in the outer tube? Im installing racetech gold valves and they say to use 330cc while my manual says no less then 345cc? Thanks again for keeping us home mechanics in the know!
Awesome! Would really love to know in depth why your valves are better and what they will do for me. Just bought some SDI spring seats, cant wait to try em out. Serviced my forks last week and found 200cc in the right fork and 300cc in the left. Had them "revalved" a year ago, I'm so tired of having lousy handling shit......
Subtle differences between those years internally, cartridge seals, valving, etc.. 2008 had extremely stiff fork tubes but 2009-2013 are basically the same forks.
Hi Jeff I just replaced my fork seals I dont have a needle and pump gadget. Is it important to have air pressure in that bladder. I ride mostly rocks and sand
Hello. I need your help. I have one of this close chamber to put on my xcw250 2017. Xplor sucks. 😉 I Wil put some pair of new springs,. 40 to get soft feeling. I will put new seals and new oil 5w. The problem is that I remove everything but unfortunately I push the low into cartridge and oil outs from bleeding valve. Is any problem with that or is best push some fresh oil? Best regards sorry for my English
Carlos: Sorry, I don't totally understand your information but changing from a poorly valved Xplor fork to a poorly valved old-style open chamber fork will have the same result. If you have oil coming out of the spindle, watch my open chamber fork video.
Hello and thanks for you response. I have a close cartridge like the one in the video. My problem is the one of rod don't extend by himself. I can put oil from bleeding valve?
All of a sudden (after owning the bike about 1 yr) my '13 300XC forks have gotten very harsh and deflect off anything in the trail. Dangerous ! We've put new bushings, checked shims, new triple clamps, new axle, as far as I can tell the local guy did everything like in this video, I watched ...just have no idea whats causing it. I put my '13 150xc forks on the bike and the problem is gone...bike also tracks straighter too which makes no sense. Any ideas Jeff ? Thanks much !
AvocaSingleTrack Having the same issue, mine work great after doing this procedure then the forks become harsh over maybe 10-15 hrs. An oil change and setting the bladder pressure corrects it again. I suspect there is pressure building up in the cartridge. Did you find a solution?
Do you make your own valves? Ever heard of Ride Concepts valves? Are they any good? Even if they are junk, at least they sell to the public that wants to do their own valving. What do you suggest to the home valver? The stock stuff rides like shit.......
Now just need video on how to fill the outer chamber and put it back together and a video on fork seals if you get a chance, awesome channel
I knocked out that silicone plug, man what a pain to get back in. thanks for the upload
You're welcome.
Great video Jeff! Everything went just as explained! "Torqueaholic" made me chuckle!! Slaven's Racing had everything in stock to get the job done!! Thanks!
Thanks for the video, it helped me a lot. Also thanks for quickly sending out the tools I ordered very quickly.
Yes, we make our own valves. We'll have valving kits available this fall, 2012.
Can you clarify why you put in 1.75 bar when the manual recommends 1.2? I can understand over filling initially due to equalization with the atmosphere and losing some pressure but after final bleeding is completed shouldn't you lower or raise the pressure in the bladder back to 1.2 bar for final assembly?
You can raise or lower the pressure as you mention.
Thanks for the video! I have one concern: after the bladder is fully inflated you suggest to compress the cartrige 4 times. The problem is after it is fully compressed it does not go back to the fully extended position by itself. So I have to force it and when I extend it the air comes into the cartrige. Is it OK to have the air in the cartrige? Or is anything wrong with my cartrige as it sucks the air into itself when extended?
Apparently I'm watching the wrong video. Where do I find the right one?
hi jeff , first time doing my 08 450 xcf fork seals , two questions do i need to service the bladder and cartridge when i replace my seals .. and if i dont need to service it how do i know how much oil is needed ? ... thank you so much for these videos ! your step by steps are great !! -kyle-
At 330cc you will have metal to metal when bottoming. The minimum I use is 350 but usually use 360-365. RT makes good suspension tools but their GVs and springs are pure junk.
Hello, I was wondering if a ball sports pump needle will work for pumping the bladder up? If not, what gauge of needle is that? Great video by the way. Thanks you,
Kevin
When I remove the bleed screw, some oil overflows like in the video, but when I try to inflate the bladder to 0.5bar a lot of airbubbles/oil comes out. What wories me is that after every stroke of the pump, oil blurpes out, but the hole doesn't remain filled and air gets in. So after final bleeding and 3-4 strokes of the dampening rod, it doesn't extend fully and when pulled to the maximum by hand, it's pulled back in, so that means it has air, isn't it? What do I make wrong?
Don't remove the screw as shown in the video.
Jeff Slavens
Is the bleed procedure shown in the video not the correct way?
rufusz . Did you ever figure this out? I'm having the same problem and I'm not sure of the correct procedure and Jeff's comment isn't clear to me
Tom Klein nope
Another great video! How do you know how much oil to install in the outer tube? Im installing racetech gold valves and they say to use 330cc while my manual says no less then 345cc? Thanks again for keeping us home mechanics in the know!
Awesome! Would really love to know in depth why your valves are better and what they will do for me. Just bought some SDI spring seats, cant wait to try em out. Serviced my forks last week and found 200cc in the right fork and 300cc in the left. Had them "revalved" a year ago, I'm so tired of having lousy handling shit......
Very nice video, thanks for sharing.
Hello Jeff. Whats the difference bettween 2008 and 2013 close cartridge Wp blader forks? Best regards
Subtle differences between those years internally, cartridge seals, valving, etc.. 2008 had extremely stiff fork tubes but 2009-2013 are basically the same forks.
I have these forks but the bladders keep changing pressure is this normal ?
Yes. As the fork heats up the pressure will rise a little.
@@slaverace1 i set it at say 15psi a week later i re check its at around 23/25 psi
Hi Jeff I just replaced my fork seals I dont have a needle and pump gadget. Is it important to have air pressure in that bladder. I ride mostly rocks and sand
why wouldn't it?
Hello. I need your help. I have one of this close chamber to put on my xcw250 2017. Xplor sucks. 😉 I Wil put some pair of new springs,. 40 to get soft feeling. I will put new seals and new oil 5w. The problem is that I remove everything but unfortunately I push the low into cartridge and oil outs from bleeding valve. Is any problem with that or is best push some fresh oil? Best regards sorry for my English
Carlos:
Sorry, I don't totally understand your information but changing from a poorly valved Xplor fork to a poorly valved old-style open chamber fork will have the same result. If you have oil coming out of the spindle, watch my open chamber fork video.
Hello and thanks for you response. I have a close cartridge like the one in the video. My problem is the one of rod don't extend by himself. I can put oil from bleeding valve?
What kind of valve is that on the bladder? Mine don't look like that....
All of a sudden (after owning the bike about 1 yr) my '13 300XC forks have gotten very harsh and deflect off anything in the trail. Dangerous ! We've put new bushings, checked shims, new triple clamps, new axle, as far as I can tell the local guy did everything like in this video, I watched ...just have no idea whats causing it. I put my '13 150xc forks on the bike and the problem is gone...bike also tracks straighter too which makes no sense. Any ideas Jeff ? Thanks much !
AvocaSingleTrack
Having the same issue, mine work great after doing this procedure then the forks become harsh over maybe 10-15 hrs. An oil change and setting the bladder pressure corrects it again. I suspect there is pressure building up in the cartridge. Did you find a solution?
incorrect wheel/ axle installation is my guess.
Coming soon.
My manual for CC sxf forks 450 says they are nitrogen filled. Why does this video state air?
How much oil in one piece in total??
Next Level
You can use either nitrogen or air.
?? its good procedure or I will not remove bleed screw .and I filled a 2 bar and I return the piston 3 to 4 times or until has what oil flows can?
Do you make your own valves? Ever heard of Ride Concepts valves? Are they any good? Even if they are junk, at least they sell to the public that wants to do their own valving. What do you suggest to the home valver? The stock stuff rides like shit.......
No. I don't know the gauge.
what happens if i dont inflate the bladder
???
what happened?
its good procédure or no
yeh i was just about to order some, should i not, what springs do you recomend instead?
very helpfull thanks
why are their springs and GV's pure junk? Im not sticking up for them, just wondering why?
Thanks
Starightforward