I'm pretty sure you're further along, but all the 3 links that i have set up, the key to good steering is to have the distance from the frame side of your track bar to pitman arm be the same distance from the axle mount of your track bar to drag link (where it attaches to the knuckle). those two measurements are crucial to prevent any bump steering at speeds over 20 mph in my experience. and as i'm sure you know, the angle of the track bar needs to be at the same angle as the drag link as well.
I’m pretty far already. I made the trac bar as long as possible an it was parallel with the drag link before I had to put a bend in it to clear the oil pan. Thanks for advice
Did you ever get the bolt into the crawl box to mate it to the transmission on 11:38 in vid,I just installed a crawl box on my first gen r150 trans and had the same problem,just wanted to know if you fix that issue??,I just ran a nut and bolt through for now
could stretch it to I'm building a 90s yota on tons 40s and i moved front dana 60 4" foreword comes up in front of oil pan now little late now since u cut it but lol
I think I did move the front axle forward a few inches. I can’t go to far because I’m trying to keep it street legal. I also didn’t wanna cut into the headlight buckets.
![OG TOYOTA CRAWLER 3-LINK CONVERSION [4K]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/zfY_s50IoUM/mqdefault.jpg)
Looks like a cool project but I can only take so “so uh’s”
Good luck with the truck.
4wheel underground recommends flipping your tie rod to the underside of your steering arms to gain more up travel
I saw that. The tie ride will interfere with the front axle. Will have to notch out axle for clearance issues.
This hurt to watch but looks epic
I'm pretty sure you're further along, but all the 3 links that i have set up, the key to good steering is to have the distance from the frame side of your track bar to pitman arm be the same distance from the axle mount of your track bar to drag link (where it attaches to the knuckle). those two measurements are crucial to prevent any bump steering at speeds over 20 mph in my experience. and as i'm sure you know, the angle of the track bar needs to be at the same angle as the drag link as well.
I’m pretty far already. I made the trac bar as long as possible an it was parallel with the drag link before I had to put a bend in it to clear the oil pan. Thanks for advice
Did you ever get the bolt into the crawl box to mate it to the transmission on 11:38 in vid,I just installed a crawl box on my first gen r150 trans and had the same problem,just wanted to know if you fix that issue??,I just ran a nut and bolt through for now
What oil pan are you running
@@varmint223 trail gear oil pan
How long are your links? Thank you.👍
To long.
I thought the TG C kits cam with reverse oil pan to clear the axle....
It did Still had to modify it.
could stretch it to I'm building a 90s yota on tons 40s and i moved front dana 60 4" foreword comes up in front of oil pan now little late now since u cut it but lol
I think I did move the front axle forward a few inches. I can’t go to far because I’m trying to keep it street legal. I also didn’t wanna cut into the headlight buckets.
Did you ever sell the Trail Gear frame side brackets?
The frame plates? I did. I sell my own version on my website.
@@DrZFabrication I'm referring to the TG link brackets. You made your own but mentioned that you'd like sell the TG ones.
Yes I still have the 3 link kit. I do want to sell the kit. Email me. Dr.zfabrication@aol.com
That looks janky.