I think I'd rather buy an Ebike, but great skills. My days of tinkering are just about over. I wish we had the technology & time when I was a kid I could have built all kinds of stuff. Otherwise my Ebike would have an extention cord. I did build a go-cart, most people that had the ability back then built one, push or motorized if you had the money. But I had to have my shop teachers help. You guys don't know how fortunate you are today. I wonder what your comments will be when your about the young ones when your 70 ? Have fun.
I think it's perfect with the 60 tooth sprocket. The drill is fairly light, doesn't absorb crazy amount of energy ( it's probably 100 watt total output) but it has great torque,which is the entire point of it. Bikes aren't meant for crazy high speed and the engine supports and hold the cruising. Curious how performs on a steeper path
Excellent! Was just looking at this freewheel sprocket, it's a bit noisy but you can't beat the price for the function. The reverse option on cordless drills is lost but you don't go in reverse on a bike or scooter.
We wanna know how the torque compares, I've been researching online to figure out how to make my kid a Stacyc18 or Stacyc20 competitive bike, they retail at $2k-3k
I am looking at using a design like yours to handle a 20 mile commute. It is fairly flat, and I just want to cut down my trip time. Have you done any experimenting with using it for top-end assist, instead of relying on mostly the drill for moving the bike? Did you try normal pedaling down the street and using the higher gear? Was there anything specific about the Harbor Freight drill that made it the best choice, or was it just something you already had? I'm looking at the Dewalt 20v version. What was the RPM range of the drill you used? Did you machine the sprockets yourself? I'm thinking about 3D-printing mine to give me maximum sizing customizability. Did you have to hold the throttle in position, or could you set it and just ride? Do you think you were getting full travel on the trigger? I am thinking about splicing into the drill trigger wiring to ensure I get 100% available torque. Another thought I had was to mount a couple batteries somewhere else on the bike, lock the trigger all the way back, and just wire the batteries through the throttle. Did you still need the idler sprocket once you switched to the smaller sprocket in back? Do you still feel like that was the best drill mounting location? Your design has a lot of features that demonstrates the effort you put into the design. Too many of these projects are done with scrap wood, duct tape, and zip ties.
Go back to the first setup and only use the drill selector # 2 (drill’s high gear) when you are pedaling...like you said “pedal assist” not electric bike... btw, most drills aren’t designed for continuous use...
Finally! Those are the same concerns I had initially watching them videos.
have you run it from full-charge to no-charge? how many minutes did it last?
I think I'd rather buy an Ebike, but great skills. My days of tinkering are just about over. I wish we had the technology & time when I was a kid I could have built all kinds of stuff. Otherwise my Ebike would have an extention cord. I did build a go-cart, most people that had the ability back then built one, push or motorized if you had the money. But I had to have my shop teachers help. You guys don't know how fortunate you are today. I wonder what your comments will be when your about the young ones when your 70 ? Have fun.
Yeah, you can get 200 or 400 watt ebikes for under $500 now. Alot less headaches and more range, plus alot will fold for travel now.
I think it's perfect with the 60 tooth sprocket. The drill is fairly light, doesn't absorb crazy amount of energy ( it's probably 100 watt total output) but it has great torque,which is the entire point of it. Bikes aren't meant for crazy high speed and the engine supports and hold the cruising. Curious how performs on a steeper path
Excellent! Was just looking at this freewheel sprocket, it's a bit noisy but you can't beat the price for the function. The reverse option on cordless drills is lost but you don't go in reverse on a bike or scooter.
Try the 20V one. Make more videos, exactly the same like this video, but with more power.
When are you mass producing kits?! Very cool, gave me some great ideas. Thanks
Could you give a link to that sprocket? The one that is on the angle grinder. Or reply with what I would look up to find a similar one.
I will try and find it, I got it from eBay....I searched freewheel sprocket for ebike. If I find the link I will get back to you
I tried the same with kobalt right angle drill. The motor was strong enough but the chuck sucked and kept letting go of things
Try removing the chuck and bolt the freewheel sprocket directly to the shaft that holds the chuck
We wanna know how the torque compares, I've been researching online to figure out how to make my kid a Stacyc18 or Stacyc20 competitive bike, they retail at $2k-3k
Can you show a link to the sprocket you used?
Would it be more powerful to use an cordless circular saw? I would think there would be a lot more torque.
I'd try it with the earthquake since I already have it.
Andy, love the new groundhog, still off-road? Or will she be a street bike?
It will be an off-road chopper, it's going to have knobby 25x8-12 tires and possibly a groundhog garage style springer fork. Thanks for watching!
Would a angle grinder will be more powerful?
I am looking at using a design like yours to handle a 20 mile commute. It is fairly flat, and I just want to cut down my trip time. Have you done any experimenting with using it for top-end assist, instead of relying on mostly the drill for moving the bike? Did you try normal pedaling down the street and using the higher gear? Was there anything specific about the Harbor Freight drill that made it the best choice, or was it just something you already had? I'm looking at the Dewalt 20v version. What was the RPM range of the drill you used? Did you machine the sprockets yourself? I'm thinking about 3D-printing mine to give me maximum sizing customizability. Did you have to hold the throttle in position, or could you set it and just ride? Do you think you were getting full travel on the trigger? I am thinking about splicing into the drill trigger wiring to ensure I get 100% available torque. Another thought I had was to mount a couple batteries somewhere else on the bike, lock the trigger all the way back, and just wire the batteries through the throttle. Did you still need the idler sprocket once you switched to the smaller sprocket in back? Do you still feel like that was the best drill mounting location?
Your design has a lot of features that demonstrates the effort you put into the design. Too many of these projects are done with scrap wood, duct tape, and zip ties.
Get a 350-500 watt bike electric conversion kit. A drill is not designed for continuous operation...
It’s called a motorcycle lol
According to I see in the video. I am noticing that the battery of the drill might be a issue hitting the front wheel.
How far can you go on that battery?
Not sure, probably not far since it's around a 3 amp hour. I think e-bikes are usually at least have 10 amp hour batteries
how long will the battery last
Not sure I didn't take it very far, if I had to guess it would likely be under 10 miles with the amp hours being so low on the drill
Go back to the first setup and only use the drill selector # 2 (drill’s high gear) when you are pedaling...like you said “pedal assist” not electric bike... btw, most drills aren’t designed for continuous use...
drill details pls