It's fascinating to me how so many of these old WWII era machines are still in great shape and being used for what they were designed for. In our cheap, throw away society, it makes me further nostalgic for when quality machines were still made in the USA and designed to be used for a lifetime. Welcome back Keith. Nice video.
so good to have the old keith back, how anyone can make 60mins of watching a surface grinder doing what it does interesting has to be gifted but you sure did. Not concentrated viewing but in the background just perfect. keep it up, its so nice to have an old friend back. look forward to more of the projects and hopefully more frequent
Just lucky i guess... Lucky I came across this video! As the proud new owner of an older B&S No 2 surface grinder I can't wait to find and watch more of these videos!!!
Congratulations on the grinder. I’ve got an old Reid 618H that I paid way too much for, but I rarely see any for sale in my area. I run a 46H wheel most of the time with a course dress. I’ll take my my final pass running the part towards the column. Shouldn’t matter but it does in my case (a couple tenths) and I’m getting good results as far as finish, flat and hitting target size. Missed the videos, glad your back.
Great demonstration of an old-school B&S machine tool that was taken care of. A very good acquisition for the shop...lots of good work and use left in there. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you Keith for bringing us along with the set up of the new addition to your shop. I am sure it will bring us some very good videos in the future. Keep on "Getting er Done'"
Love your surface grinder addition, that is what I am in the market for now for my shop, that way I can make some precision tooling for the shop!! Like always, enjoy your videos Keith!!
These grinders were/are real workhorses. This one is in great looking shape. Aside from the belt and oiler it will serve you many years of trouble free use.
Hi Keith, thanks for the video, never seen a surface grinder running before, it looks like a good adition to your workshop. Hope your keeping well, stay safe,best wishe's, Stuart.uk.
Keith, I enjoy your videos. Just wanted to give you some advise on grinding. I own a high precision shop at the other end of the state. We work to + or - .0001 or less on a daily basis for over 30 years. Grinding is one of our specialties. First off, once you dress your wheel, never shut it off. It becomes out of balance. Your table speed needs to be much higher and your cross feed should be 1/2 to 2/3 of your wheel width. >.0003 - .0005 down feed for roughing. .0001 - .0002 for finish. Otherwise you burn the part. Coolant is advised. If you check the middle of the parts you ground on the 29th you will find a sink. Just trying to spread good practices.
Keith has a new toy and can't wait to play with it lol. Nice score! When you checked the surface on the piece you just fnished grinding. I could tell by the chuckle you were pleased with the run-out Good to see you and thank you for the update on what has been going on. Have a great day and God Bless.
Keith, drill and tap your dust extraction housing next to the retention rod for a fine thread bolt, machine and thread a bolt so that the head of the bolt is large enough to ride on top of the retention rod, makes adjusting that housing much easier .
I love thatt. great grinder.. Keith those white wheels geberat the most HEAT..which can dig in middle of part.. and Scoop rather than smooth. If middle is undersized.use coolant or take one thous bites.. Sparks should be even front to back.You are perfect but new guys.. like spaks.. which are HET. GOOD luck sir.. YOU are THE MAN..
I gave a set of precision stones to my friend and told him NOT to use oil with them :D and guess what he did :D oiled them loaded them up with gunk on the first try :D had to come over and clean them for him :D at least he bought me a quick lunch at McDonalds for my trouble :D Anyway what a beautiful distinct sound this grinder has! Clunk, ratchet, clunk, ratchet, clunk, ratchet.. LOVE IT
@@MatthewRulla the funny thing the loaded stone was floating nicely on a surface plate :D but when you tried rubbing stones together it would stick and feel very gummy
Ya, like one of the commenters said, "I don't know how someone can watch 60 min of a piece being surface grinded back and forth and back and forth". Well, those people just don't get it. Thanks for the video. Like all you do.
We always grind a very light skim over the face of the magnet when first setting up the surface grinder to know it grinds parallel to the slideways. I hope this helps. Cheers
Great machine Keith, wish I had room for one in my little workshop. A couple of tenths variation when not bolted down and not having surfaced the mag chuck is impressive...just shows the beauty of these big, heavy old machines. I loved the sound of the machine during the slo mo at the end....somewhat eerie! I'm sure you are going to have some fun getting to know what the machine can do when fully set up...great addition to the workshop!
I loved the sound of the machine during the slo mo at the end....somewhat eerie!My thoughts, as well... almost like creaking/ratcheting haunted house noises.
Hi Keith. Isn't it a nice feeling bringing these old machines back into service. I bought a 18 x 6" Churchill Model NB Surface Grinder the other year, Built in 1959. After some TLC (motor bearings, new electrics and a good clean) she is back up and running and still within a 1/10th of a thou. The old machines are far superior to some of the stuff on offer these days.
Thanks once again for letting me look over your shoulder,this is your shop so do what ever makes you feel the best,I'm happy to watch your content and am not here to pick things apart😁😁😁
I have a pair of heavy duty (think Horizontal Mill) surface grinders and I use the vac up cover on the end lower than the wheel to suck up grit. The work doesn't go that far unless it is long and then you can adjust as needed. Mine is Hydro oil movement driven, not belt. My work table is a knee and moves up and down. The stone is fixed height. Nice operation and general description. Nice medium or maybe small grinder. Some are real Monsters as the size of long bed lathes. Martin
surface and cylindrical grinders are there for an upper class machining that involve a higher class designing and material choice. for sure it is a very nice addition to any machine shop as it open the door to precision tooling as punch and die making. my congratulations
I looked for a Brown and Sharpe No.2 in decent shape for several years, I love that old school mechanical drive and auto feed and really wanted one in my shop. Just this spring I ended up with a Clausing 6x12 (Covel 7A), its all manual but I couldn't pass it up for the price, sure is nice to have a small grinder in the shop now!
If you don't already have one, you'll want a spin indexer with a 5C collet hole. This will allow you to grind round hardened material. I use mine to also put flats on the shank of a drill bit 120 degrees apart, and to put a flat on a weldon shank end mill. I've purchased the pieces of tooling to sharpen the end of an endmill. But I've not used it. and don't think I ever will. You really need a tool and cutter grinder, and I just don't go through tooling that fast to need to resharpen, and it's also another machine I don't have room for, or between uses, having to relearn how to use the tool. I wish I had your quality of machine. But the surface grinder has been handy for machining things flat in my shop. Thanks for your "core dump" in all these videos.
Hello Keith , just a few suggestions - one. dump the back guide ,unless you are going to do side grinding it won't pay to have it on there . It's nice that you indicted it in for future reference the correct way is to side grind the back rail in position and use the ways of the machine to guide the grind with . taking it off will also help when up cleaning up the magnet surface and I hope you do this and please turn ON the magnet while grinding the surface flat . if you need to do side grinding just indicate the part it's faster . Remember when side grinding you will need to dress a rib on the side of the wheel a small rib maybe 1/8" or less with relief above it . if you are going to dry grind like I see you doing here get a couple of blocks of aluminum the help cool of the part .some grinding wheels I've used in the past that work well are , 46 H ,60 H , 60 K 80 K the K's are lot harder then the H type the H will run a lot cooler K wheels wont break down as easily . ok ya I know I 'm all over the place here but just wrote it down as I remember it . when you have a chance look grinding wax . And please oh please don't be a girly-man and use the lightest grit stone to clean of the magnet the idea is to remove the high spots NOT polish them . a nice round bench stone the kind with the finger groove all the way around it works fine . and yes you can use the fine grit side if you must I'll let you . last but not least you need to let that thing run all day and stop turning off the wheel .have fun with your grinder . remember to spark out the part too you'll find out just how much heat is going into the part . Ok that's it I didn't mean to write an essay .
robbery more like it !! At least it's going to someone who know how to use it ! But yeah, you can't touch a 6x18 auto ...anything for under $20K, so....
The surface grinders at the auctions near me often don't even sell for starting bid of $100 while other smaller items sell at prices that are near to new price.
Keith- I'm so jazzed about the B&S !! You got the 45 year "Handshake" down ..for sure! I would hold off on resurfacing the chuck (It's not that bad). Spindle sound and looks good. With that wheel and cuts you were taking, any "bounce" surly would have shown up. I used to have a couple of these auto feeds (old style, before the Micro Master). One thing i'll bring to your attention. that cross feed mech, the pounding of that Cog as it indexes ..sometimes shows up on the part, so you need to mind where you put the trip dogs. (esp, when the machine mounts are wood). You have just tightened up the accuracy limits of your house ...good for you !!
I always verify the wiring of a new piece of gear; when I got my surface grinder a few years ago, the five prong twist-lok plug was completely mis-wired (the GND lead went to the keyed prong, and one of the hots went to the center pin). I ended up rewiring the entire machine due to other oddness too, and the fact that I'm running a VFD to power it.
Nice little Brown & Sharpe permanent magnet surface grinder. Nice. But l'd think He'd be plugging up his wheel grinding (presumably) soft steel like that. Judging from the spark pattern it's soft. No sparklers. Nice, weIl designed machine. Pretty big, stiff spindle, looks like. Sparked out pretty fast. Real nice.
Mine is a MUCH earlier machine, with a completely different style of serial numbers, with one long number, no dashes? When I look mine up it's a 1946- But mine is also just a No.2, not a 2L like yours, so far everything I found about yours puts it at 1955-1957? Still looking, but yours is in MUCH better shape for sure! Wish I had the two-speed feed lever!!!
Nice Grinder! Just for the class, when you are using manufactured 3 phase (phase converter) make sure you do not use the manufactured / wild / synthetic leg for your low voltage control circuitry, it runs roughly double the potential to Ground as the 2 commercial legs from the street IE 120, 120, 250. but checked leg to leg you get 220, 220, 220 Be extra sure if you need to change rotation by swapping 2 legs you don't accidentally put the wild one on your controls, it will smoke your contactors.
It will NOT smoke your contactors. I run an RPC and I purposefully connect the 3rd leg to my control circuit so the contacts do not operate when the RPC is not running.
@@kooldoozer what voltage are your contactor coil's rated? I'm talking ones rated 120v, and My rotary phase converter has a contactor that cuts all three legs output when it isn't running, so no issue / safety gain there for me. Bottom line using the manufactured leg to power a single phase 120v circuit is a bad idea. Just google wild leg 4 wire delta circuits if you don't want to take my word for it.
@@gregdawson1909 Center tapped coils in delta transformers and the generated leg of an RPC are two completely different things. Which one are you talking about here??
@@kooldoozer Average RPC behavior is best described as a 4 wire delta (right out of American rotary's documentation) so while I am talking about rotary phase converters, the practice of being aware of the wild leg as in 4 wire delta applies.The North American brand says DON'T use t3 for control circuits or 120v single phase loads. Can you get away with running 240v control circuits or a 240v single phase load on any 2 legs from a rotary phase converter? Sure, but if for some reason there is 120v control on the machine, a 120v lamp, coolant pump, DRO, power feed, or courtesy outlet for whatever, you don't want the manufactured leg. In your situation the manufactured leg is clearly not causing an issue, but avoiding it is not wrong either. If you still believe that there is no situation where using the manufactured leg for control or ancillaries is a problem then I'm afraid we will have to agree to disagree.
@@gregdawson1909 Ok, just answer me this,,, The RPC output is 3 wires. Where are you getting this 4 wire delta comparison? You are not center tapping any windings in the RPC. Explain what you mean.
Wow, what a bargain for a machine that apparently has received very little use. I paid $1750.00 for my manual 6 x 18 Kent 20 years ago and it has paid for itself many times over. After adding coolant I put it to work grinding CPM-10 with a special Norton wheel. Without a heavy coolant flow and special wheel this material is very difficult to grind. Keep them videos coming.
The price paid will let you up-grade and improve that piece of equipment with out breaking your pocket. That is Grand Theft Robbery of the best kind - - - in your favor. Love it!
Hey Keith, I see a cast iron drill press/welding table like your old one for sale local to me. LMK if you are interested I'll pass on the info. Glad to see you back...I think I'm hypnotized now...you should offer some good suggestions at the end of the video like will smith in men in black lol
@Keith Where did you purchase the belt? I purchased a 2lb with hand feeds with 6x18 chuck off of Ebay for $250. One side of one of the Vee ways on the carriage is worn, but the 3 other sides have perfect scraped ways. Any insight on what I can do? I appreciate your videos very much! Thank You!
Did the table move in the Y axis before the series of clicks or during these? If during, the movement happened as the stone was in contact with the material. You would probably have noticed this anyway... and maybe it makes no difference? Otherwise you might consider running the travel a bit further beyond the material such that the table is in position before the wheel meets the steel.
Not really any experience with surface grinding, but I've seen enough to suggest you turn blocks like that to an 45 degree angle or more, turning it so you're grinding along the short dimension on each pass (with supports on the table to prevent tipping). This lessens the heat buildup and makes more accurate grinding. Just a suggestion from machinists I've worked with.
Haha it sounded like some sort of doomsday mechanics in the slomo, cool shot. Sure is a nice addition to your shop Keith, i saw the sparking in your eyes when looking at the test result. And thanks for making video's.
Keith I really appreciate all your talk-throughs over the years. I've learned a ton from you man.
It's fascinating to me how so many of these old WWII era machines are still in great shape and being used for what they were designed for. In our cheap, throw away society, it makes me further nostalgic for when quality machines were still made in the USA and designed to be used for a lifetime. Welcome back Keith. Nice video.
oh we still have several places and companies that make stuff here and have for a long time, but not near as many and mostly cnc
so good to have the old keith back, how anyone can make 60mins of watching a surface grinder doing what it does interesting has to be gifted but you sure did. Not concentrated viewing but in the background just perfect. keep it up, its so nice to have an old friend back.
look forward to more of the projects and hopefully more frequent
I am 53 years old Keith, I have done a lot in my life so far but, there is nothing more enjoyable than machining to me!!!
Learning new tools is always fun and interesting. Expanding shop capabilities is a win win for everybody.
Just lucky i guess... Lucky I came across this video! As the proud new owner of an older B&S No 2 surface grinder I can't wait to find and watch more of these videos!!!
one of my 2 fabourite you tubers, Keith Fenner and Dave Engels, two real artisans at what they do, compulsive and a joy to watch, keep it up Keith
Agree.
jepp... but I always have to skip the first 30 sec...
Good morning Keith, Thanks for taking the time to make and edit the videos. I enjoy them.
Glad you like them!
Congratulations on the grinder. I’ve got an old Reid 618H that I paid way too much for, but I rarely see any for sale in my area. I run a 46H wheel most of the time with a course dress. I’ll take my my final pass running the part towards the column. Shouldn’t matter but it does in my case (a couple tenths) and I’m getting good results as far as finish, flat and hitting target size.
Missed the videos, glad your back.
Great demonstration of an old-school B&S machine tool that was taken care of.
A very good acquisition for the shop...lots of good work and use left in there.
Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for this Keith what an incredible old gem that machine is. An Era of fascinating machinery
Nice addition to the shop. Working very well. One of the most satisfying tools to use.
Great video as always. Learning every time I watch. Thank you Keith.
Thank you Keith for bringing us along with the set up of the new addition to your shop. I am sure it will bring us some very good videos in the future. Keep on "Getting er Done'"
Glad you got you a new tool, we always enjoy new ones in the shop!!
Keith, Awesome video and content enjoyed watching your surface grinder in operation, thanks for sharing your video.!.!.!.
Wow I’m impressed Keith. Nice to see a surface grinder in action. Thanks for sharing👊
Excellent machine you need one long time a go very happy to see you back
I missed you. Glad you are back.
Love your surface grinder addition, that is what I am in the market for now for my shop, that way I can make some precision tooling for the shop!! Like always, enjoy your videos Keith!!
These grinders were/are real workhorses. This one is in great looking shape. Aside from the belt and oiler it will serve you many years of trouble free use.
Hi Keith, thanks for the video, never seen a surface grinder running before, it looks like a good adition to your workshop. Hope your keeping well, stay safe,best wishe's, Stuart.uk.
Keith, I enjoy your videos. Just wanted to give you some advise on grinding. I own a high precision shop at the other end of the state. We work to + or - .0001 or less on a daily basis for over 30 years. Grinding is one of our specialties. First off, once you dress your wheel, never shut it off. It becomes out of balance. Your table speed needs to be much higher and your cross feed should be 1/2 to 2/3 of your wheel width. >.0003 - .0005 down feed for roughing. .0001 - .0002 for finish. Otherwise you burn the part. Coolant is advised. If you check the middle of the parts you ground on the 29th you will find a sink. Just trying to spread good practices.
Machinists and Grinders.
Plumbers and Electricians.
Two very different jobs.
Some similarities.
Some very different know-how.
Thank you for the tips and will make notes to play with. ;{)
Keith has a new toy and can't wait to play with it lol.
Nice score! When you checked the surface on the piece you just fnished grinding. I could tell by the chuckle you were pleased with the run-out
Good to see you and thank you for the update on what has been going on.
Have a great day and God Bless.
Keith, drill and tap your dust extraction housing next to the retention rod for a fine thread bolt, machine and thread a bolt so that the head of the bolt is large enough to ride on top of the retention rod, makes adjusting that housing much easier .
Thanks! Cheers, ;{)
Nice addition to the shop....!
New shop looks grate!!!! Keep up the goodwork
I love thatt. great grinder.. Keith those white wheels geberat the most HEAT..which can dig in middle of part.. and Scoop rather than smooth. If middle is undersized.use coolant or take one thous bites.. Sparks should be even front to back.You are perfect but new guys.. like spaks.. which are HET. GOOD luck sir.. YOU are THE MAN..
Thanks for the tips!
I gave a set of precision stones to my friend and told him NOT to use oil with them :D and guess what he did :D oiled them loaded them up with gunk on the first try :D had to come over and clean them for him :D at least he bought me a quick lunch at McDonalds for my trouble :D Anyway what a beautiful distinct sound this grinder has! Clunk, ratchet, clunk, ratchet, clunk, ratchet.. LOVE IT
Great tip!
I toss the stones in a heated ultra sonic cleaner with SimpleGreen. They come out like new and all the embedded metal and dirt is gone.
@@MatthewRulla the funny thing the loaded stone was floating nicely on a surface plate :D but when you tried rubbing stones together it would stick and feel very gummy
Yeah! Good morning Sir! Nice to see a video and hear from you. Glad your getting back in the grove and operating. 👍🎥, 👏🇺🇸, 👋🧙♂️🇺🇸, 😎
Thanks 👍
Hi Keith,
The surface grinder was my favorite machine when i was an apprentice many moons ago... good to see your one in action.
Take care
Paul,,
Cool, thanks!
You got a beatiful machine and a bargain. Joy comming up the next surface work.
Ya, like one of the commenters said, "I don't know how someone can watch 60 min of a piece being surface grinded back and forth and back and forth". Well, those people just don't get it. Thanks for the video. Like all you do.
Very interesting. Thanks for sharing Keith.
Glad to see the grinder is finally fired up.
Welcome back sir
Thanks Keith. ALWAYS enjoy the videos! Stay safe my friend.
We always grind a very light skim over the face of the magnet when first setting up the surface grinder to know it grinds parallel to the slideways. I hope this helps. Cheers
Thanks for this video. I hope you produce more surface grinding videos. It is very interesting.
Thanks, will do!
Great machine Keith, wish I had room for one in my little workshop.
A couple of tenths variation when not bolted down and not having surfaced the mag chuck is impressive...just shows the beauty of these big, heavy old machines.
I loved the sound of the machine during the slo mo at the end....somewhat eerie!
I'm sure you are going to have some fun getting to know what the machine can do when fully set up...great addition to the workshop!
I loved the sound of the machine during the slo mo at the end....somewhat eerie!My thoughts, as well... almost like creaking/ratcheting haunted house noises.
Thanks for the video just what I needed to kill an hour.Always liked seeing old iron do what it does best work.
Great content Keith, thanks for sharing
Hi Keith. Isn't it a nice feeling bringing these old machines back into service. I bought a 18 x 6" Churchill Model NB Surface Grinder the other year, Built in 1959. After some TLC (motor bearings, new electrics and a good clean) she is back up and running and still within a 1/10th of a thou. The old machines are far superior to some of the stuff on offer these days.
I’m trying to get one of those. Awesome video. Thanks for the education. Thanks again!
I'm glad to hear you have plenty of work. Also glad you have time for us with a video. ATB
Love to get close up to the work to see what your doing n just see how good the Finish is
Thanks once again for letting me look over your shoulder,this is your shop so do what ever makes you feel the best,I'm happy to watch your content and am not here to pick things apart😁😁😁
Like a kid with a new toy. :)
The slow motion sound clip was great.
It sounded like effects from a horror movie. :)
I to know bob and bill, love your real insight into the industry
I have a pair of heavy duty (think Horizontal Mill) surface grinders and I use the vac up cover on the end lower than the wheel to suck up grit. The work doesn't go that far unless it is long and then you can adjust as needed. Mine is Hydro oil movement driven, not belt. My work table is a knee and moves up and down. The stone is fixed height. Nice operation and general description. Nice medium or maybe small grinder. Some are real Monsters as the size of long bed lathes. Martin
surface and cylindrical grinders are there for an upper class machining that involve a higher class designing and material choice.
for sure it is a very nice addition to any machine shop as it open the door to precision tooling as punch and die making.
my congratulations
I see our girl friend is back. We missed her.
we all have .Keith has a before and after now ,,,,,, Great Pic ,
I have no need for a grinder like that, but I still want one just to watch and listen to it running all day.
I just bough a Brown and Sharpe # 2 and can’t wait to get it in my shop and running, getrdone Keith!
Keith thank you for coming back
I looked for a Brown and Sharpe No.2 in decent shape for several years, I love that old school mechanical drive and auto feed and really wanted one in my shop. Just this spring I ended up with a Clausing 6x12 (Covel 7A), its all manual but I couldn't pass it up for the price, sure is nice to have a small grinder in the shop now!
Buffy's new man ! Surfacing Sam The Nib Sharpener!
Gritty ole well-seasoned vet. He'll do 'er right!
Sweet purchase! Love surface grinding.
Good video ,Thanks .What a lucky purchase .
Hola meu amigo Keith!!!
Acompanhando seus trabalhos,e aproveito para aprender cada vez mais!!!
Obrigado,João Carlos - Brasil
If you don't already have one, you'll want a spin indexer with a 5C collet hole. This will allow you to grind round hardened material. I use mine to also put flats on the shank of a drill bit 120 degrees apart, and to put a flat on a weldon shank end mill. I've purchased the pieces of tooling to sharpen the end of an endmill. But I've not used it. and don't think I ever will. You really need a tool and cutter grinder, and I just don't go through tooling that fast to need to resharpen, and it's also another machine I don't have room for, or between uses, having to relearn how to use the tool.
I wish I had your quality of machine. But the surface grinder has been handy for machining things flat in my shop.
Thanks for your "core dump" in all these videos.
Hello Keith , just a few suggestions - one. dump the back guide ,unless you are going to do side grinding it won't pay to have it on there . It's nice that you indicted it in for future reference
the correct way is to side grind the back rail in position and use the ways of the machine to guide the grind with . taking it off will also help when up cleaning up the magnet surface and I hope you do this and please turn ON the magnet while grinding the surface flat . if you need to do side grinding just indicate the part it's faster . Remember when side grinding you will need to dress a rib on the side of the wheel a small rib maybe 1/8" or less with relief above it . if you are going to dry grind like I see you doing here get a couple of blocks of aluminum the help cool of the part .some grinding wheels I've used in the past that work well are , 46 H ,60 H , 60 K 80 K the K's are lot harder then the H type the H will run a lot cooler K wheels wont break down as easily . ok ya I know I 'm all over the place here but just wrote it down as I remember it . when you have a chance look grinding wax . And please oh please don't be a girly-man and use the lightest grit stone to clean of the magnet the idea is to remove the high spots NOT polish them . a nice round bench stone the kind with the finger groove all the way around it works fine . and yes you can use the fine grit side if you must I'll let you . last but not least you need to let that thing run all day and stop turning off the wheel .have fun with your grinder . remember to spark out the part too you'll find out just how much heat is going into the part . Ok that's it I didn't mean to write an essay .
Thank you for the feed, will use it to better myself ;{)
That thing is in great shape!
$500 is a steal for that grinder
robbery more like it !! At least it's going to someone who know how to use it !
But yeah, you can't touch a 6x18 auto ...anything for under $20K, so....
The surface grinders at the auctions near me often don't even sell for starting bid of $100 while other smaller items sell at prices that are near to new price.
I would have paid $550. ;?)
Great video. I have the exact same model. Now I know how to use it! Thanks Keith!
Keith- I'm so jazzed about the B&S !! You got the 45 year "Handshake" down ..for sure!
I would hold off on resurfacing the chuck (It's not that bad). Spindle sound and looks good. With that wheel and cuts you were taking, any "bounce" surly would have shown up.
I used to have a couple of these auto feeds (old style, before the Micro Master).
One thing i'll bring to your attention. that cross feed mech, the pounding of that Cog as it indexes ..sometimes shows up on the part, so you need to mind where you put the trip dogs. (esp, when the machine mounts are wood).
You have just tightened up the accuracy limits of your house ...good for you !!
That is a high quality machine for sure , glad you got it !
I've been excited to see yo set up the surface grinder!!
Good to see you again Keith. That ole Sparkalator seems to be in good shape.
Enjoyed, I had the manual version similar vintage of that machine.....auto feed/vacuum great score!!
Spectacular! Keep them coming.
Thanks, will do!
I always verify the wiring of a new piece of gear; when I got my surface grinder a few years ago, the five prong twist-lok plug was completely mis-wired (the GND lead went to the keyed prong, and one of the hots went to the center pin). I ended up rewiring the entire machine due to other oddness too, and the fact that I'm running a VFD to power it.
Can't wait to see more . great stuff.
Very nice! Great find on that grinder.
A great addition to the shop. $500.00 WHAT? Nice to see you land on your feet.
THANK YOU...for sharing. Great buy for $500.00, watched and very much enjoyed.
Nice little Brown & Sharpe permanent magnet surface grinder.
Nice.
But l'd think He'd be plugging up his wheel grinding (presumably) soft steel like that. Judging from the spark pattern it's soft. No sparklers. Nice, weIl designed machine. Pretty big, stiff spindle, looks like. Sparked out pretty fast. Real nice.
She's a nice addition to the shop. So is the pic by the flag.
Nice dress up😉
500! That's nuts! I can't get my hands on one of these here even if I add a zero in there... What a score!
Love that slo mo sound
you lucky man what a find :) Micky UK
Awsome video thanks for sharing.
Mine is a MUCH earlier machine, with a completely different style of serial numbers, with one long number, no dashes?
When I look mine up it's a 1946- But mine is also just a No.2, not a 2L like yours, so far everything I found about yours puts it at 1955-1957? Still looking, but yours is in MUCH better shape for sure! Wish I had the two-speed feed lever!!!
very good video..thanks for your time mr. fenner
My pleasure
Nice Grinder! Just for the class, when you are using manufactured 3 phase (phase converter) make sure you do not use the manufactured / wild / synthetic leg for your low voltage control circuitry, it runs roughly double the potential to Ground as the 2 commercial legs from the street IE 120, 120, 250. but checked leg to leg you get 220, 220, 220 Be extra sure if you need to change rotation by swapping 2 legs you don't accidentally put the wild one on your controls, it will smoke your contactors.
It will NOT smoke your contactors. I run an RPC and I purposefully connect the 3rd leg to my control circuit so the contacts do not operate when the RPC is not running.
@@kooldoozer what voltage are your contactor coil's rated? I'm talking ones rated 120v, and My rotary phase converter has a contactor that cuts all three legs output when it isn't running, so no issue / safety gain there for me. Bottom line using the manufactured leg to power a single phase 120v circuit is a bad idea. Just google wild leg 4 wire delta circuits if you don't want to take my word for it.
@@gregdawson1909 Center tapped coils in delta transformers and the generated leg of an RPC are two completely different things. Which one are you talking about here??
@@kooldoozer Average RPC behavior is best described as a 4 wire delta (right out of American rotary's documentation) so while I am talking about rotary phase converters, the practice of being aware of the wild leg as in 4 wire delta applies.The North American brand says DON'T use t3 for control circuits or 120v single phase loads. Can you get away with running 240v control circuits or a 240v single phase load on any 2 legs from a rotary phase converter? Sure, but if for some reason there is 120v control on the machine, a 120v lamp, coolant pump, DRO, power feed, or courtesy outlet for whatever, you don't want the manufactured leg. In your situation the manufactured leg is clearly not causing an issue, but avoiding it is not wrong either. If you still believe that there is no situation where using the manufactured leg for control or ancillaries is a problem then I'm afraid we will have to agree to disagree.
@@gregdawson1909 Ok, just answer me this,,, The RPC output is 3 wires. Where are you getting this 4 wire delta comparison? You are not center tapping any windings in the RPC. Explain what you mean.
Wow, what a bargain for a machine that apparently has received very little use. I paid $1750.00 for my manual 6 x 18 Kent 20 years ago and it has paid for itself many times over. After adding coolant I put it to work grinding CPM-10 with a special Norton wheel. Without a heavy coolant flow and special wheel this material is very difficult to grind. Keep them videos coming.
That is a great deal, very nice grinder.
What an awesome find and it's in great condition. First the $50.00 dollar shaper and now $500.00 surface grinder. What's next?
Steve Summers has a neat grindings collection/guard piece he added to his unit you may like.
The price paid will let you up-grade and improve that piece of equipment with out breaking your pocket. That is Grand Theft Robbery of the best kind - - - in your favor. Love it!
On the other hand most of these machines go to scrap
@@jayreiter268 This piece of "Scrap" will pay dividends for Keith in the future.
523-2-821 Starts in 1953 and is the last date shown for #2 surface grinder according to my book.. Cheers; Mike in Louisiana
Hey Keith, I see a cast iron drill press/welding table like your old one for sale local to me. LMK if you are interested I'll pass on the info. Glad to see you back...I think I'm hypnotized now...you should offer some good suggestions at the end of the video like will smith in men in black lol
@Keith Where did you purchase the belt? I purchased a 2lb with hand feeds with 6x18 chuck off of Ebay for $250. One side of one of the Vee ways on the carriage is worn, but the 3 other sides have perfect scraped ways. Any insight on what I can do? I appreciate your videos very much! Thank You!
www.bourn-koch.com/oem-repair-parts-service/grinding/brown-sharpe/parts/
Did the table move in the Y axis before the series of clicks or during these? If during, the movement happened as the stone was in contact with the material. You would probably have noticed this anyway... and maybe it makes no difference? Otherwise you might consider running the travel a bit further beyond the material such that the table is in position before the wheel meets the steel.
Yes and you can see the path curve on the part. ;{)
The mag vise alone is worth $500. Great deal.
Keith, what does the oil do that you put in that plate?
Lubricates the sliding internal components. ;{)
Having the table nice and level might help speed up set ups as well
LET'S GO TO WORK, GREAT VIDEO...
Not really any experience with surface grinding, but I've seen enough to suggest you turn blocks like that to an 45 degree angle or more, turning it so you're grinding along the short dimension on each pass (with supports on the table to prevent tipping). This lessens the heat buildup and makes more accurate grinding. Just a suggestion from machinists I've worked with.
i guess theoretically you would get a more accurate grind that way too
Especially with a 3 thou depth of cut!
Haha it sounded like some sort of doomsday mechanics in the slomo, cool shot.
Sure is a nice addition to your shop Keith, i saw the sparking in your eyes when looking at the test result.
And thanks for making video's.
A nice score Keith could have been a much different scenario.
Play Safe From Elliot Lake Ontario Canada.