Surface Grinder Swap
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- Опубликовано: 2 июл 2024
- Instagram - mr_crispin
In this video I show the removal of a Jones and Shipman 540 and the replacement of it with a newer J&S 540.
Ian Burgoyne Machinery Moving, Eastwood, Nottingham, 07906480925
Tico Pads
anti-vibration.solutions/prod... 
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What a great time I had seeing and hearing the sounds that I am so familiar with in the 540.
I did my apprenticeship at J&S and built them and its units on the 540 flowline at Leicester.
Knowing every screw, knobs, components all the methods of assembly brought back unforgotten memories. I started a face book page for all the hundreds of shipies experts still out there.
Were losing a few sadly each year now but the legend lives on with guys like you. Thankyou.
Thanks
What’s the page please ?
The bloke doing the delivery was a gem. Nice to see people going above and beyond. Thanks for the video! :)
Yes indeed. He did not have to stay
Re the movement Mr Crispin, remove the pads etc from beneath the machine, drill a hole for each mounting point and install anchors into the concrete. Where there's no safety consideration (such as with a hoist etc) the epoxy in threaded rod type are excellent.
Once the anchor bolts have cured wind on a thin nut and place a washer on, then place the machine on top of those.
Wind the nuts up and down as necessary to level the machine and then a nut and washer on top to secure the whole thing in place.
Now grout under the machine to take up any surface inconsistencies and fill the gap.
The issue you're seeing is simply the result of inertia. The table and job are coming to a somewhat sudden halt then accelerating in the opposite direction. The force required must be carried by the machine and when you apply a force to a mass you get a corresponding acceleration. A bump.
By solidly attaching the machine to the concrete slab etc you effectively increase the mass of the machine by orders of magnitude with a corresponding decrease in acceleration.
If you're concerned about the grout sticking to the machine or floor, put a layer of plastic between the grout and the surface you want to protect.
The same deal applies with vibration reduction. Increase the mass, reduce the effect of vibration. The bigger the mass you attach the grinder to the better.
I've always used the holes supplied in the casting to bolt to the floor. You will see the mounting instructions in your manual also calls for this.
Crispin, someone was having you on about the the pump ROTOR. It is an AC motor, Soft Iron Rotor with the Stator ( coils ) providing the magnetism. Great outcome.
Almost nothing is more satisfying than successfully moving heavy machines. 👍👍👏😀
What a beautiful machine.
I agree with Alex's earlier suggestion that it needs bolting down. I have issues with the shaper if it isn't fixed to the floor. The method I would pursue is 'bedding' the 4 corners to the floor with an epoxy compound and then fit 4 pieces of threaded bar through the fixing points and set them into the concrete with masonry fixing adhesive (Mason mate) or similar. When the fixing adhesive has set ,usually 40 minutes, tighten the nuts down on all 4 pieces of fixed threaded rod. If your using a system with bonded in threaded rod you can also concoct a levelling/jacking arrangement using half thickness nuts under the machine base. Bolt the bugger down😂
Spot on. We always bolted them down. As the table traverses, there is large weight shift of the table beyond the feet. You are missing a long bent handle scraper to scrape the swarf from the bottom of the coolant tank.
Not so fast! Just do happens I was given one of those rakes about 6 hours ago!
Bloody decent machine! Used similar J&S many times in my younger years!
@@MrCrispinEnterprises good, if I remember correctly, you scrape the bottom of the top tank and as you pull it towards you, the swarf drops into the bottom tank off the knee breaker bit :)
Yes correct it's a neat design!
Congrats on the new surface grinder! My 'new' surface grinder is still in the garage 4 years after I rescued it from a manufacturing facility in Connecticut, USA. All original paper work that looks like new and all of over 60 years old!
My new surface grinder is still with the seller ;) (I'm not not even thinking about buying one !)
Ian has helped me out with moves on a number of occasions. Great guy, proper grafter. Nice to see him still going!
Hi Crispin, well done on the logistics, well planned and managed. Cracking paint job on the extractor. One insanely jealous viewer here, I learnt on one of these in my apprenticeship, they are the best of the best, brilliant addition to your shop. Cheers, Jon
Ahhh...Jones & Shipman...a thing of great beauty!
Always thorough, informative and entertainingly witty.
Nice paint job. Thanks for speeding the painting up, the result was most interesting and it matched superbly.
Great addition to your shop…damn good paint job to boot 👍
Great video. Interesting to see workings of a real big boys toy and have them explained so clearly.
Nice acquisition Mr. C. Very smooth and capable. Loved the thorough run down of the controls. Now go grind something!
Hello Mr. Crispin,
Interesting video, thank you... Looks like you have a very nice surface grinding setup now, I look forward to seeing more surface grinding action in the future.
Take care.
Paul,,
Congratulations on your new grinder swap. I admire the hard work of moving those heavy machines out and in by good planning and muscle power only.
Nice pick up, MrCrispin. I found this video because of the J&S 540. I have a 1969 540P that is a pleasure to use. It took a bit of work to get it converted to 60 Hz power, which involved some rewiring and new sprocket for the hydraulic pump. I think making the sprocket was the most satisfying task! Nice job on the paint work, looks like a perfect color match. Cheers from Florida’s Space Coast.
its good to hear from you again. nice looking machine, i feel sure in saying that your going to have both fun and good results together. thanks for sharing....
Great addition to your shop well done 👍
Excellent machine the J & S 540. If pos the P version unless you enjoy a workout if you have to move the head up an down any distance. I have one of the unfortunately named Elite AR5E tool and cutter grinders which also doubles as a manual surface grinder. Unfortunately I really don't have enough room in my workshop for a 540 much as I'd absolutely love one.
I love it when I hear about someone rescuing a machine like this, good work Me Crispin. Oh, and we're currently moving a Moore No1 jig borer which our friend Les kindly donated to us to our other unit.
I read the thing to do is to level the machine up, then bolt it down and use cement to grout beneath it. J&S also said the foundations under the machine should be around 2 feet thick !
Nice machine, I have a standard 540, I like my machines leveled to aid set ups and ensure even loading on the feet and reduce stress. For the J & S 540, I manufactured some fine threaded inverted top hats, and jacking screws to 3-point castellated pads. Good idea on the anti vibration material.
Unless using full stroke of the double ended table cylinder, there is a little cushioning on the direction change.
Would love your powered model.
Excellent as per usual, thanks for sharing.
Best regards from the Black Country.
Beautiful grinder Mr C. I hope it serves you well.
Great video, well done on the upgrade.
Congratulations! I hope the new addition will serve you well.
What a beauty. I like the dust collector, and I guess you will bolt it down. I can’t wait to see it in operation.
That is a fine machine tool Mr. Crispin
Brilliant! Well done Crispin!
Good swap! Very nice machine. i would love to own a surface grinder like that.
Nice new toy. It will wakes it harder to get you out of the shop fro dinner time :-)
The coolant punp is a standard 3 phase induction design. The rotor is not required to be magnetic, so no worry about dispantling! David CEng!
Nice piece of equipment to have in a workshop, I’m sure you’ll put it to good use. Looking forward to seeing you use it.
Cheers Kevin
Hello chap. Great video. Your talk of machines being top heavy and prone to toppling brought back one particular nightmare for me. My Harrison milling machine was delivered to me by a pallet service. The driver turned the steerable wheel of the pallet truck through 90 and tried to pull it to manouvre the machine, in the back of the lorry. In that position the steerable wheels acted like a perfect hinge, precipitating the machine over onto it's side. Fortunately the only damage was a squashed Square D reversing switch for the power feed. I still have nightmares about it though.
Not good!
@@MrCrispinEnterprises No. It was flippin' horrendous, I can tell you.
@@carlwilson1772 My milling machine (Alexander Master Toolmaker, basically a copy of the Deckel FP1) arrived on a pallet and I couldn't watch, for exactly this reason. Fortunately my driver was more adept than yours...
@@cooperised Fortunately in my case the driver wasn't hurt. Luckily the machine only suffered minor cosmetic damage.
Good morning Mr Crispin 🤠 Loved it as I worked for Luprrians computer express throughout the 90s as a HGV driver installer installing and removing all kinds of machinery and medical equipment all over the U.K. & Europe 😀 Love your humours videos but with some really interesting and informative bits thrown in 🤣 I’m no machinist but find what your sharing very interesting 👍🏻
Thanks
I usually take a bit longer moving machines about. Discussions usually but almost always include numerous pints, a pub lunch, more pints, a BBQ, more pints, etc. If you work really fast, you can do it all in 2 to 3 days
I've had a lot of Jones and shipman equipment, I've even been to the factory in Bermingham. Their new easy program stuff was pretty nice at the time. their old 1300 models on the cylindrical grinders were, and still are my favorite manual machines. I'd like to buy another and probably will. I just have about 3000 square foot shop in my back yard now without a cylindrical. I need one. and one of these surface grinders. I've never had one of their surface grinders. I'm going to keep my eye out for one now. Thanks for the video:)
"Don't keep the armature out of the motor too long or it will demagnetize." Good one! :-)
Well... It's just an induction motor. Permanent magnet servo's might be a different thing. Either way I would not worry about it too much.
ruclips.net/video/5tV2W-i8YGI/видео.html
Splendid video!
Looking sharp, keep Crispin!
Thanks. I'll do my best to 'keep Crispin'!
Absolutely love your video's. Not a machinists, I prefer to play blacksmith (for now). I watched your update from a bit ago and recall that you have several more items to share in the works. I will be patiently waiting as many others will be. You are extremely informative and immensely entertaining! Bravo Sir!.
Thanks
careful dave....thats what i said...im just going to smith...*stares at monarch lathe rebuild* yup..just going to smith....
Your anecdote about George reminded me about the girl who backed into the bacon slicer- disaster!
That powerfeed up and down is really a nice feature.
At 10 thou per turn of the hand wheel it makes a big difference!
I wouldn't worry too much about an induction motor demagnetizing.
There are no permanent magnets inside one of those, the fields are all induced by the current flowing through the stator. One of the more clever inventions by Mr. Tesla.
Crispin, that's a nice machine. One thing you may want to consider is setting the base on some lead sheet. we did that on a heavy shear and it bedded itself in and was quite stable. I enjoy your videos and hope you keep them coming!
Thanks and interesting point about the lead.
Nice idea, might avoid having to drill the floor. In fact that technique was also used when building granite columns in churches, where a lead sheet was put between each section.
Makes you appreciate the skills of the ancient Egyptian pyramid builders etc, shifting heavy things with precision and with no technology . 👍🏴
rollers are technology, thousands of slaves should not be forgotten when you see ancient and some more modern architecture...
Nice machine-no doubt you will have a job that needs to be ground!!. That colour looks c,one to what I painted many of my tools with some 60 years ago, and they are still bearing much use. The paint was called Techaloid-not sure of the spelling, but it was used for hand painting car bodywork in the RR , Daimler etc makes. I repainted by hand an MGA fire engine red and the finish was glass-like. I have never since used paint that flowed out so flat, primer, undercoat, top coat and clear finish. Bought in Leeds, my home city. I don’t know if this paint still exists, but it is quality all the way. The finish was far superior to a sprayed finish. Thanks for sharing your machine shop adventures, best wishes from Tasmania 42 South. PS, the paint has lasted along with the Made in Sheffield steel tools, still as the day I bought them. Near impossible to buy tools of that quality and price down under.
Nice machine that mr crispin I still got to use a file me thanks for posting
30 min vid? Christmas came early, cheers!
8 years since I used a j and s and the 'knee buster' still makes one shudder somewhat, even in demo mode!
I was intrigued by the blue machine ID label (MC 5505) on the old J & S 540. This looks very similar to the labelling that Rolls-Royce use to identify their machine tools. I have recently retired from RR (Hucknall, Notts) and one of my last projects was to procure and install a new waterjet cutting machine. After the installation and commissioning, I had to apply for the official RR MC number so the machine could be logged onto the machine tool database. This number had to be quoted when requesting any maintenance or repairs.
Good geuss! It's a machine that RR scrapped
What a nice machine!👍
If heavy machine has three feet it should be stable but it looks like it is rocking. So with the rapid change in centre of mass when table moves either the machine is rocking off its feet or (and I think more likely from my lounge chair at the other side of the planet) the cork material is compressing under changing load.
I now have surface grinder envy!
Thank you for making the videos.
Great surface grinder.👍👍
Impressive machine, thanks.
That's a beauty!
ATB, Robin
To take out the rock from the macine you will need to "preload" the fixation corners. Drill a hole in the floor for every each fixation, put there a chemical anchor, (hole must be deep minimum 8 tilme of the anchor diameter) let it set for minimum 24 hours and after this tight the nuts of the anchors to compress the rubber close to how much is compressed when the rock movement take place.
Or... you can run the machine and tight the nuts small amount from corner to corner until you feel no movement under the nuts of the anchors.
Good evening Mr. Crispin,
If the machine is properly shimmed to the floor of the shop, hardwood shims at the least, better, steel. Might have to bolt it down. Wish I was there to help you move the machines. I enjoy doing those things.
Thanks for the new video.
Best Wishes, James
Very nice machine . Cheers .
Hei mate! Nice acquisition, wish you to grind happy and free from issues for many years!
About the rotor of your pump... who told you about losing magnetic properties... or demagnetize the rotor if you hold it out for long time... was for sure making joke with you. Never hear this nonsense...:-) but make me smile... so it was a good one!
That is a short circuited cage rotor (or armature how Ron also say) that get induction from the stator, there is no permanent magnets there at all.
with regards to mounting of the surface grinder wobble.
when I worked in a powerstation years ago one of the tasks that had to be undertaken was replacing gearboxes on a a coal grinder.
the gearbox probably weighed in excess of 15 tons.
when it was installed on its mounting pads a dam was fitted around the pads and a mix of epoxy resin was poured in and allowed to cure.
The securing bolts were then secured and that was it.
Don't recall any problems with wobbly gearboxes.
Mr Crispin,
Good day. Mayhap a refresher in Newtonian mechanics is in order.
Regarding inertia, center of gravity and balance, I will begin at the end and work back. Your surface grinder has a large component of dynamic loading which effects a continuous change in center of gravity ( CoG). When the bed is at its far left limit, the CoG is shifted to the far left. At this point, the machine accelerates the bed to the right. The " opposite but equal reaction is the rest of the machine being pushed to the left.
This left inertia then acts over the lever that is the distance from the bottom of the bed to the floor. This amplified moment of inertia wants to go somewhere. And the antivibration pads you've given the machine are squishy. They are designed to allow movement. And move they do.
The proper way to effect what you are trying to do is MASS. Lots of it. Thats why engineers layout laaaarge cubes of cement as machine foundations to deal with this.
Cheers
Lovely machine
The perforated ring you referred to in the drive end of the coolant pump motor is called a star tolerance ring and is used to produce a interference fit,in this case between the bearing OD and the casing ID. I’ve seen them used before mostly in cheaper machines.
Thanks. I geuss the question is was it in there from new?
I think it's a good idea - so bearings don't need hammering in or out !
That is a very nice machine👍
When painting the red oxide coat we should have had "Anchours Away" playing in the background.
P&S blue looks like RAF blue so maybe the "Dam Buster's" theme would have been appropriate.
As to stopping the machine twitching I would think being firmly bolted to the floor would stop it. 👍🇨🇦🍌🇺🇦🕊️🤔🇬🇧🤞
What a nice color blue.
Try bolting it to the floor it usually works for us , our problem was a round head Colchester turning Chuck to tail stock two inch steel plates bolted to the floor and the lathe bolted to the plates
Nice machine indeed!
I'm going from long distant memory as far as installation of industrial machines, if I remember correctly, briefly, drill floor to take stud plates, once cured, run flange nuts down, lift machine on to nuts, level, secure with hold down nuts, fill gap between floor and machine. Ancillary equipment is then mounted on insulated feet. Just need a cylindrical grinder and you will be capable of almost any job.
Pssht whatever. it gets tricky to get in... I brought my grinder down to my basement shop by myself! Admittedly I did have one hiccup with an eye bolt and a chain hoist that sent the base down the stairs at me. I got hands on it but wasn't crushed... Whew!!! I have do e this before mine you, two lathes and a horizontal mill all solo. Not having a pallet jack I'd have to lay down some wood or aluminum diamond plate and drag it along with a winch. Keep the winch in mind next time. They actually work great!
As somebody has pointed out already there are fixing holes in the base, you may also find that when the table changes direction the machine base is sliding on the steel plates, remove these and let the machine settle for a while on the packing and then run the machine,
I have a hydraulic 8x18 B&S surface grinder...it sits on four 6" diameter adjustable isolator feet..it also rocks a bit at the end of stroke depending on the feed rate. It's a little annoying, but it doesn't seem to affect the accuracy. My opinion is that the rock settles out well before the wheel re-engages the work. It also helps that its a very rigid base casting. Maybe a higher durometer rubber would reduce the movement a little more, but at least it's not walking itself out the door.
Yes I think you raise a good point. I'm going to have a look at the hydraulic valves as I have been told I can soften the speed at which it changes direction.
Generally I prefer to move machines by myself, then I can take my time and evaluate what needs to happen. I've had 'help' before which resulted in a machine on its side. I think the biggest thing I moved by myself was a 1 tonne lathe bed using a pallet truck, chain hoist and engine crane. With regard to the grinder would the old method of grouting it to the floor and bolting help
The pump looks like a three phase induction motor (squirrel cage) no permanent magnets involved.
I once had a uni guy tell me not to power down and up quickly computers - "as it warps the discs."
@@millomweb Well actually there is an element of truth is this. Waaay back before windows when we used microsoft DOS with the very early generation of hard disks/drives (instead of a pc with two floppy drives). We were advised to enter the dos command "shipzone" before powering down, this command move the harddrive wiper to the safe shipzone otherwise the wiper just dropped onto the spinning platter if power was cut. Dont know about warping disc but data was lost.
@@gregwmanning It was 'PARK' here - to park the HD heads prior to powering down. That was at college with RM machines. Never used it at work.
No need to park heads on a power reboot. There is a chance of data loss if rebooting while the disc is being accessed - and that's down to bad software design.
Great video as always! Thanks for allowing me to be the fly on your shop wall. As a side note I appreciate the censorship my 6 year old also enjoys your videos, he just does not realize it yet.
Lol
Lol
Put the J&S on jack bolts and then run grout underneath the bearing points.
Enjoy your new mechein sir look forward to see it yoused in anger 👍
Try using pieces of side wall of a old car tyre under the machine.
Use square peices about 4" x 4".
Tyre side wall is tapered and can be placed further under the machine or out from under the machine to achieve leveling. Don't use any steel, the machine will slide on the steel when it is running.
The weight of the machine will settle into the peices of tyre wall over time and become firmer.
Dead unstable, as Ian said is about right, moved a smaller Herbert grinder into my workshop myself on Friday, with an engine hoist from the back of me Land Rover, they want to pivot in ways you can't seem to forsee. It was more stressful than the lathe move... Can't wait for the Milling Machine.
What flavour mill have you ?
@@millomweb I don't have one yet, looking at a Harrison or similar, I was referring to the fact It will be the hardest to move I think
@@smithofthenorth Vertical/Horiz/combi ?
@@millomweb combi
@@smithofthenorth I found one pic of such on an image search. Size-wise, I'd class as 'big amateur' - but then size-wise - it's what you have space for ;)
I might just about have space for a really small mill if I got rid of our large mill ;) As it is, I'm having to walk on top of stuff that's on the floor !
Moving heavy things usually comes down to the strength of a couple of likely lads
I have drill and put bolds with a two part epoxy resin to make the machine from moving
I suggest you consider bolting the machine down, the flexible bedding material will then be preloaded and resist further compression by inertia.lets see what others recomend.
The coolant pump motor is an induction motor and has no permanent magnets. I've had motors of its type diassembled for months and they were fine when reassembled.
That "perforated ring" is called a tolerance ring. It may be factory or it may be from a previous repair.
The piece of plastic around the shaft is probably a slinger that keeps liquid from traveling up the shaft.
The mention of the previous side play coud've caused the rotor to be pulled into the field causing it to draw more current and not turn as fast (you mentioned in the beginning about deceleration).
Doesn't look like the dust extractor is capable of handling coolant. Are they mutually exclusive? I have one at work (Kent) where dust extaction and coolant can be used together.
Nice looking and well featued machine. I envy your power downfeed. Good luck with it all.
Thanks for the comment, Paul!:) I wanted to note that too. In any case, I had my incredulous moment and had to look twice when Mr. Crispin said: "I was told not to keep this out of the motor too long, because it final can demagnetize". In the case of a three-phase asynchronous motor, especially in the case of a short-circuit cage runner, the magnetic field is generated by the stator, i.e. the outer static windings.The chasing rotation-field (as you said Paul, by induction) of the rotor, which represents a short-circuit (maximum induction) finally creates the torque. The larger the slip, the larger the magnetic flow, which induces an electrical voltage, which in turn causes a current in the rotor with a torque proportional to the slip (or in other words: proportional to the size of the stator vs. rotor rotation-field-asynchronicity.
Dear Mr. Crispin: Even with e-motors with permanent magnets, removing them from the engine housing does not cause anything negative ... So as long as one does not do the following: demagnetizing goes perfectly through an alternating field (for example via a magnetic field provided by Mains-AC {=alternating current} ), through fixed blows (with a hammer) that heterogenizes the metal structure again or by heating ferromagnetic materials beyond the Curie temperature ... to name some methods.
So, no fear:)
Anyway, great entertaining video with many things to learn from. Thank you MrCrispin!:)
Math: M_{{\mathrm {Motor}}}=\operatorname {Im}(\Phi I_{2}^{*}) (* for the conjugated complex value of I 2 I_{2}) where the rotating magnetic field \Phi is _{{\mathrm {Rotor}}}=\Phi \ \exp(-j\gamma ). So the proportionality is not linear but of an exponential kind.
Is it intentional that the thumbnail photo looks like the alien robot overlords have landed and are taking a look around?
Congrats.
Very interesting video.
Thank you
that extractor is very loud, ever thought about a shop vac with a home built cyclone on it?
I couldn't live without mine
Thank you for the excellent description of moving and of the machine itself. You did not mention bolting the machine to the floor. I think this is considered necessary. Did you check the handbook for the machine? I fear that the machine will walk all over the place and constantly be rocking if it isn't bolted tightly to the floor. Good luck with the machine and looking forward to seeing it in action.
No need to bolt these grinders down we used to move them around work shop when not in use then drag out when needed
Try smaller pads under the feet and if you don't want to bolt it a a thin film of epoxy paste between each shim.
The larger the surface area as you have now, the greater the chance of movement. Think of it as high heals shoes, lots of pressure on small given area = less effect of floor uneveness..
Lots of luck!
A shame you didn't show it grinding but well done on getting it in.
hi there im just watching another of you interesting videos and you sent me into a panic by saying your motor armature may lose its magnetism so iv had to rush out to the shed as iv had my motor armature in the lathe alnight meanig to turn down the shaft to day....job done and the motor still works but it never occurred this could happen 👍
I've since been told by various viewers that that was false information. Apparently that type of motor does not suffer from that issue. Have a look at the other comments.
sir, can i ask when you might hope to restart the build on the model steam locomotive? i was really enjoying that build series and sometimes go back to watch older postings....
Probably around the end of this year. Cheers.
Really nice machine Mr Crispin, thanks for the informative vid, shave the tash off, it puts years on you,
Almost catching up with my mental age!
Great machines the 540s worked them when an apprentice with the LS STARRETT CO in Jedburgh and a slightly bigger version in the toolroom at Rolls Royce in Derby in the late 60s l have one I in my home workshop here in South Africa.. The rapid vertical traverse is a great feature on your machine saves a lot or PT especially when wheel, dressing (wish my machine had) ln all my years I've never seen a machine bolted down they just sit on the floor . I suppose if with maximum x axis traverse speed and maximum stops set you will get some shaking but you'll find you have to slow the table down to get the cross fee to work anyway my machine sits on 6 mm rubber with some shims to level it and its fine.. keep the videos coming I enjoy you enginering approach.. not a disc grinder in sight😆
Interesting. Which tool room was it at RR?
@@MrCrispinEnterprises Worked at no 6 shop in Nightingale road . It was the the toolroom when I was there but l was informed that it was the building where the cars were build before ww2 It had mult floors (3 I think) It had huge service lifts designed to take the cars up and down.. I believe all has been demolished . No CNC then so turbine .blade tooling was a nightmare no pocket calculators then as well . Most of the grinders had compound magnetic sin chucks so to calculate angles for the slip gauges we used 7 figure log tables books ,try doing that on the night shift sometimes with a hangover .. HA HA great times.. It was the RB 211 project and carbon fibre blades were supposed to be the answer to the maidens prayer, unfortunately it didn't work although I hear they use them in some of today's engines .. They had a jig boring section which was called the glass house because it was temperature controlled .. keep well
Quite a few of my colleagues did there time in 6 shop and I work on turbine blades so I know all about the tooling!
I think the earliest starter I work with is 1970 so sounds like they just missed you.
@@MrCrispinEnterprises yes I left in 1969 , only worked there for a year just to gain some experience. I'm 75 now so was only 23 when I emigrated to South Africa ..They had some wonderful machines some of them ancient even then.. I remember big old BUTLER SHAPERS which i would have loved to have in my workshop.Ask your pals at RR if they remember them.. Cheers
Great video!
I think the twitch could be down to the machine not being bolted down. I would suggest drilling suitable sized threaded bar into the concrete and use a epoxy concrete bond. Think Everbuild make it?? Honestly had some great results with a lathe on a concrete floor. Also I think some of these machine had a hydraulic valve which could be adjusted to cushion the throw and change in direction. How this helps
Also was the old machine sent to the scrapyard in the sky or has it found a new home?
I hoping to re home it
A steel ring “keeper” can be slipped over the rotor as it is removed to prevent demagnetizing the rotor.
Fairies can take on the same task because there are NO permanent magnets [1] in an "asynchronous motor" (or more known as "Induction motor") existent.
Especially not with a "Squirrel-cage rotor". Try looking it up, for example under the same topic on Wikipedia. It's a fascinating read and physics behind (which means it is a rabbit-hole, hehehe )
Also see the other comment on the topic, if you like: ruclips.net/video/RldfmpmzlgY/видео.html&lc=Ugy-hU49K8TxbcBRXSx4AaABAg (Edit: This is too much for RUclips's technology **facepalm** ... you maybe have to copy the link by hand and put it in the browser bar manually. I double checked my comment and landed only on the video page. The copy & paste method worked).
[1] which means: there is nothing that can be demagnetized
Think you need to bolt that machine down into the floor to help stop the twitch given its high centre of gravity
There are no permanent magnets to disturb on the rotor of an induction motor. The rotor has internal electrical circuits to produce the magnetic fields by induction from the outer stationary field coils. Does physics on that island work differently than over here in the states? Just kidding, I love watching you work