“Professional” detailer here. It’s an iron and fallout remover. Those tiny orange specs that you see on white cars which are stuck in the clear are iron pieces that would clog up the polishing pad. They’re on all cars, just harder to see on darker colors. They come from yours and others’ brake pads. Sulfur is the active ingredient, smells like absolute death, and the purple is the chemical reaction of liquifying the iron and chemical contaminants. It removes about 80% of what would get stuck to the clay bar during the clay bar decontamination, also reducing the amount of micro marring during claying. Chemical decontaminations are dependent on dwell time, so rinsing bottom up ensures you aren’t diluting and washing off the iron remover below without the proper amount of pressure. There’s no cookie cutter way of achieving good results, but it’s hilarious to see those bashing other people who actually have no idea what they’re talking about. 😂
Ideally you should've agitated the fallout remover before rinsing, it does work a lot more effective if so. Although sometimes you can use it to decontaminate polished ceramic coated cars, thats probably the only instance where I may not agitate it as much
Generally some do it on the Pre Wash for example as if you rinse up you know where you’ve done so as not to miss a spot that could leave dirt behind and scratch the finish when you go in for the contact wash. If you rinse down you will rinse all the foam off the lower dirtiest portions making it more guess work. Also get an extended dwell time if you were using it for Iron-X this way on the upper portions. Hope it helps or makes sense
They do it because it’s for RUclips and it’s ‘more satisfying’ to watch it come off slowly. If he rinsed the top first it would rinse down and ruin the effect
@@platinum.mobile.detail gonna really confuse folks if mention about the likes of spray and rinse protection products rinsing up or at an angle to activate and drive the product up and across the panel. I can’t take credit for learning that as I found this out from Yvan Lacroix.
" Im not adverse to critique but you better have vids to back up your so called knowledge :p , anyone can be an armchair rider or a RUclips instructor!" After seeing you own video with the above text in the description, perhaps you should follow your own advice ;)
RUclips the only place to watch professional Detailers work from the bottom to the top. Lol
Yes these "professional" detailers are amazing! Chemicals here, chemicals there, use the brake dust as a surfactant to aid dirt removal lol
“Professional” detailer here. It’s an iron and fallout remover. Those tiny orange specs that you see on white cars which are stuck in the clear are iron pieces that would clog up the polishing pad. They’re on all cars, just harder to see on darker colors. They come from yours and others’ brake pads.
Sulfur is the active ingredient, smells like absolute death, and the purple is the chemical reaction of liquifying the iron and chemical contaminants. It removes about 80% of what would get stuck to the clay bar during the clay bar decontamination, also reducing the amount of micro marring during claying.
Chemical decontaminations are dependent on dwell time, so rinsing bottom up ensures you aren’t diluting and washing off the iron remover below without the proper amount of pressure. There’s no cookie cutter way of achieving good results, but it’s hilarious to see those bashing other people who actually have no idea what they’re talking about. 😂
My truck needs this weekly as i work in a steel mill and the truck is covered in fall out.
Ideally you should've agitated the fallout remover before rinsing, it does work a lot more effective if so. Although sometimes you can use it to decontaminate polished ceramic coated cars, thats probably the only instance where I may not agitate it as much
It's so satisfying 😫
Looks a great product. Out of interest, why do you work upwards when rinsing off, is there a detailing benefit? Thanks
Generally some do it on the Pre Wash for example as if you rinse up you know where you’ve done so as not to miss a spot that could leave dirt behind and scratch the finish when you go in for the contact wash. If you rinse down you will rinse all the foam off the lower dirtiest portions making it more guess work. Also get an extended dwell time if you were using it for Iron-X this way on the upper portions. Hope it helps or makes sense
They do it because it’s for RUclips and it’s ‘more satisfying’ to watch it come off slowly. If he rinsed the top first it would rinse down and ruin the effect
@@typedrew don't spread
misinformation because that's not the case, it's how it's done. The guy before me explained it properly.
@@CTR_1986👏 The amount of times I've tried explaining this 😅
@@platinum.mobile.detail gonna really confuse folks if mention about the likes of spray and rinse protection products rinsing up or at an angle to activate and drive the product up and across the panel. I can’t take credit for learning that as I found this out from Yvan Lacroix.
Corect de sus în jos😊
What product has been sprayed before rinsing
iron remover
Nothing like paying a few hundred quid for a "pro" detail on a car that's worth about the same!!
" Im not adverse to critique but you better have vids to back up your so called knowledge :p , anyone can be an armchair rider or a RUclips instructor!"
After seeing you own video with the above text in the description, perhaps you should follow your own advice ;)
P r o m o s m
Totalny bezsens zmywanie auta od dołu 😂
Thanks for watching