Yes it is understood that this new gear defeats the mechanical overload intention of the plastic gear. In the finest tradition of American Hot rodding we will now see where the weak link is..... All the best, Tom
No, the injected plastics are just cheap, that’s the only reason. if they wanted an overload protection, they could have built and ball and spring overload clutch type, or other other real overload clutches
@@emilgabor88yes that would be the best for the consumer. It’s much better for the manufacturer to eliminate the extra labor and materials to produce that so they can sell a ton of cheap plastic gears. On top of that, how many people just chunk the mixer when it stops and buy a new one.
Probably important to note that the original gear was probably designed as the "mechanical fuse" in the system to save the motor in case of overlaoding
This is the explanation I've also always heard for why KA chose to use plastic. But I'm no MechE and would love to hear a more definitive opinion. It'd be bad if this just made the next weakest (and probably more expensive) part fail under high load conditions.
I just came here to post that. Considering how well KitchenAid mixers are made, it seems odd that they would cheap out and use plastic instead of sintered bronze, or something like that unless there was a mechanical reason.
Yep that would be my worry is what breaks next. I have run a pair of Kenwood Chefs making all the bread for a Cafe without an issue and maybe I should open one up for a look 😜 I really need to buy a 10-20L commercial one but small batches work ok too.
Excellent Job!!! This video proves you are one of the best instructional machinists on RUclips. You teach methods that are applicable to the home shop machinist. Thank You for all your hard work!!
You must be magically psychic, Tom. I am in the middle of a project where I have to nod the head of my mill to 30 degrees, machine a flat on the edge of some half inch plate, and then drill holes at 30 degrees dead center, on the just made, slanted section. I was trying to figure out a clever way to find center and was hating the idea of indicating off of the sharp edge. I was thinking that I was missing some trick of the experienced machinist, yet here you are. Perfect timing and well explained.
Been a machinist since 1970. Semi retired now with a bare bones machine shop in my backyard. Worked in manufacturing, Job shops, tool and fixture making, model making, experimental machining. I still learn from master machinist like Tom.
Thanks Tom. That was a brilliant detailed explanation on using the dividing head, and the math involved. Made this an enjoyable video to watch. Cheers Nobby
Finally, a project to justify all your tools and machinery to the wife. Look at this new gear I made for you, honey. And the best part is I saved us $8! 🤣
@@unclebobsbees4899 I also get the feeling this is fun for him. Sure, machining is a job, and RUclips is a job, but the sheer ridiculousness of this one seems particularly fun.
Thank you Tom.. feels like a few years back when you were cranking out the masterpieces at high rate. Noticed I’m wearing a tattered ‘The Epic Egress’ tee this evening. Coincidence?? 😊. Thank you so much for the excellent content Sir!
Excellent fix & video Tom! I'll always remember, "Nothing too strong, ever broke." It's always a great video, when you fire the Yam up. Love to hear that thing run. Thanks!
I really enjoy these videos. They have been an excellent education for someone that otherwise never had a proper shop class while in school. I made some straight cut gears a few years back for a custom gearbox on my solar tracker. Still working the same as the first day in service. All possible because of videos like this one. Thank you.
Great video! I restored an old Hobart countertop mixer (considerably more skookum than a kitchenaid with a geared transmission), and it too had a fiber-impregnated nylon gear. I also assumed it was a safety feature. If your friend' wife is making considerable batches of bread, highly recommend the Hobart N50
Tom, totally awesome hand made stuff. I love how you talk to yourself in the second / third party, it’s something I do all the time in my garage. Kindest regards from Bonnie Scotland. Joe.
Well I've watched it now and as expected it's well up to your usual standard Tom. I know there's no doubt excellent reasons for the dearth of videos recently, but rest assured they are all very much appreciated and I'm sure I speak for many when I say that I always learn useful, interesting and entertaining stuff from them. Thanks again, it's great to see you back!
Man it's good to see you! Also I just realised something. When you used to work for a university as a machinist making cool stuff I thought you had the dream job. Now I have the dream job! So happy to follow your path and can only hope to be as knowledgeable as you.
Really nice results. I get so much out of these videos. Really appreciate you taking the time and effort to make them. Dividing heads are pretty cool, amazing that someone sat down and figured that out, and even with computers it's still a pretty damn good way to do the job.
Very cool! I was kinda expecting a tooling ball to make an appearance. I have done weird stuff with the indexer turned to an angle off the x-axis and the only good way to pickup on the geometry is a drilled and reamed hole in the end of the arbor/mandrel with a tooling ball inserted and indicated. You do need to know the distance from the shoulder on the arbor to the end of it where the tooling ball shoulder hits. It is still a good bit of triangle trig in the end. Love seeing you do projects again!
Truly helical. It was a torture at high school calculating the gear reduction to connect the divider head with the table. Mr. Rucker went through that last year I think. Thanks for the lesson Tom ;)
Great to see you making videos again Tom and this was a good'un. When you set me up with the private tour of the Royal College of Art workshops a decade ago, Steve was having exactly that 'off by one' error mental block about the hole count. My advice to him was, "don't count the holes, count the spaces".
Great video. I didn’t know it was possible to make a simulated helical gear as opposed to a true helical that would work so well. We will have to wait and see how well it holds up in the long run.😊
I LOVE the little red ball on your QC toolholder, I'm going to make some for mine. In the past I've sanded down the screw ends to remove the burrs but the ball idea is a better way to save my fingers! GREAT IDEA!!!
This is your best type of content! At least, when you're not touring machine shops supporting particle accelerators. Wish CERN would invite you to tour theirs!
Hi After watching you make the gear ,I had a similar problem with machines we used to have they, came in with nylon gears to protect the machine ,From damage, After changing them for a few times we came up with a better system, you can buy small clutches they fit in place and that clutch will save everything if it jams .you do not have to take the entire machine apart there are a few of these small clutches that you can buy and you can adjust them to the setting that you need
I have an older kitchenaid mixer. That gear is bronze in the older ones. Making it plastic was a cost reduction that generates revenue in aftermarket parts
That point alone about the clear holes is worth its weight in gold on the dividing head. That point totally confused me when I began using this device. Brilliant video full of useful stuff. Thanks for sharing.
Mr Wizard: The quote on the end screen was cut off, I went and found it: “I spent three days a week for ten years educating myself in the public library, and it's better than college. People should educate themselves - you can get a complete education for no money. At the end of ten years, I had read every book in the library and I'd written a thousand stories.” “There are worse crimes than burning books. One of them is not reading them." - Ray Bradbury
San Antonio has their public library "SAPL" (free books, ebooks, audio books, DVD's, Blu-ray's, etc...) Bexar County also has a Digital Library "BiblioTech" (an extra resource of free ebooks, audio books, digital movies, etc...) Plus Joint Base San Antonio (US Military) has their base library (again all the same)
Tom, put the dough hook in the milling machine, mount the bowl on the table and your wife can mix it in the shop and finally heat treat it. You've got the EDM for slicing.
When the wife was working at a commercial bakery with tubs of dough being mixed you could sit in and 2 others, the gears always wore and or destroyed themselves over time be that short or long due to the nature of distribution of the dough during the mix. A friend had to do a similar repair on a pizza dough mixer for a small shop. Seems it is a engineering hazard. Greatly appreciate the insights Tom.
You made a fine part but the user needs to know the failsafe is now bypassed. Having Bozo'd and caught a rag in the dough hook more than once, I can absolutely say it the nylon(?) gear saved my hand from getting munched badly. (edit) And after posting this comment I see someone else already had the same mention...
@@wlogue he was saved this time because of the what he calls a RAG more likely the wifes tea towel but i still see where he is coming from also this is but one part do we now replace the rest of the gears or is the next one the fail safe now don't know how many gears there are in it to start with
@@bradley3549 LOL 😆 There also happens to be a shear pin that holds the attachments on with the commercial units. Yeah, I have practice replacing those, too. Bakery work, what can I say. These days I only cook up parts in the home shop. Mills and lathes don't make good bread but they are far safer than mixers. 😂
I would never have been able to do the math needed to do that set up. Nice job. It was an enjoyable video, but the stronger part is likely to make more expensive parts fail the first time something binds in mixer bowl. Your new gear looks strong enough to shove the motor right through the cast aluminum body of the blender. Something the plastic part was designed to prevent.
G'day Tom. Erispective of some of the comments, I think this was an Excellent Tutorial on how to work out gear cutting angles, setting up & actually cutting the gear, to a full working unit. 😅😅 I'll archive this video in case my Kitchen Air Unit does the same. 😅😊😊 Well done, & like always good work. Thanks. Ted
Thank you so much Tom. It’s great to see you in there swinging again. Is it just a judgment call to decide when a straight cut gear is satisfactory for use in a helical gear system?
Given the centerline distance you came up with, it is highly likely that this gear set was designed using standard AGMA dimensions. Therefore the helix angle at the pitch diameter is probably 30 degrees.
Helical gear cutting is definitely interesting. Tom, have you seen where a British gentleman rigged linkages to his shaper that cut perfect involute gears? The cutter sets used with milling machines yield close approximations of true involute gears.
Nicely done Tom! Some nice guy sent me a pair of tweezers that look just like yours :) I was thinking gage block against the cutter face to touch off Z. ATB, Robin
The gear cutter seems to have appeared by magic. How did you determine the diametral pitch or module? Were you lucky enough to have the one you needed? Great to see a new machining video.
I wondered how those needle laps were intended to be used. I have some in a tube labeled laps, but never knew the technical name inorder to research them. Several years ago I bought a Kenedy top, bottom, and two middle sections from an old retired machinist, and some of those were in one of the boxes. They look very handy.
Kitchen Aid mixers used to have hardened steel gears, now they are cheap plastic, and they don't last anymore. I've gone through about 1 set of gears every year since i bought my new kitchen aid mixer 5 years ago. The old mixer with the hardened steel gears is still going strong, i've gone through a few sets of brushes, and i've never had to change the gears on the original mixer.
What a great video! A very clever solution and great machining skills to match. I wonder how many mixers are out there and how low you could drive the cost with planning and automation.
Curious about gear cutter choice. Did you simply eyeball the cutter or did you know the DP and PA of the gear? I just picked up an Ellis indexing head at an estate sale yesterday. Came with a 6 inch Buck set-tru type chuck. Fantastic work, Tom. Good to see you back in the shop.
We have a KitchenAid, one of the more heavy duty models, the kind that raises the bowl and not the slightly less heavyweight kind that the head pivots down to the bowl. Not a hiccup and in fact the mixer was used and refurbed when we got it. We love KA dishwashers and fridges and basically everything they make. The mixers are old tech, and there has been plenty of time to consider alternatives to the weak point gear. It is there for a reason. If you want to make a nice strong all metal one, that's cool, and definitely not a dumb idea. Sometimes you just want to DO the thing and make it better and I get that. But I would just buy another plastic gear, me. I learned my lesson fixing my corded Ryobi electric mower. We have a pretty good sized yard and here in New Orleans, during the more rainy months the grass grows crazy fast and sometimes it won't stop raining for you to mow, so the little 13a mower, which has a 20" blade, really struggles. There is a soft plastic flange that holds the blade onto the shaft, and after enough abuse, it deforms enough that finally the holdey bits that secure the blade just shear right off. After replacing that $10 part twice, I decided to make one out of Aluminum. I considered 1018 mild steel but my wisdom told me no, it is weak for a reason, because it is about the easiest part to replace besides the blade itself. So 6061 got the vote. A few months later, the motor gives up the ghost, overheated and quit, but this time for good, (verified with meter) and it cost me about 2/3 the price of the mower to get a new one. I did, and a couple weeks later, the mower deck cracks. So I gave up, fiberglassed it back together, and tossed the metal blade mounting flange and replaced it with an aftermarket plastic replacement and me and my mower and jungle growing grass get along just fine, now. I no longer try to second guess product engineers that put together an appliance that has a good reputation won over years of customer abuse. Usually it is how it is because that is the best way for it to be is.
Really enjoyed watching the set up. As a retired carpenter and metal worker seeing how others figure out their sequence of operations is inspiring . Tom, if you read this, a couple of episodes ago you reworked some pliers, and when you were reassembling them you used super lube I think you said. What is it? I'm rebuilding a vintage table saw for my shop and would like to use it on some of the hard to access moving parts.
Hey Tom, this gear is plastic for a reason .....Words taken from a Kitchenaid company repair blog >>> "There's a single nylon gear. The rest are made of metal. They've been using a sacrificial worm gear since the 1960s. KitchenAid switched to all-metal gears on their high-end models fairly recently. In the past, all models had a nylon gear, but the new high-end mixers use electronics to protect the motor." Take care Bud. Regards, greg
Beside the motor burning up what would happen now is she got her hand stuck in it ?would it burn up the brass pully or keep turning and mangle the hand ?
6:39, you could use the pin here touching the OD of the bar too right? Given the orientation of the cylinders they'd only have a single point of contact and could be more accurate. Maybe that's not really necessary here though.
Hey Tom, do you keep all of your drawings you make like the one you show in the video at 13:55? If you do I'd be curious to know what you method of storing/organizing them is.
That was a very interesting project. Gears kinda scare me! I sure I'll manage to screw the process up. However if I ever try to make a gear I'll let you know how it turned out. Thanks for video. KOKO!
Until recently I believed this is the kind of skill and equipment required to make a replacement gear for appliances that don't have parts available for sale. On a lark and to practice parametric modeling for my 3D printing hobby I tried creating replacement gears for a paper shredder. There were some failures but to my surprise a strong enough part can be made from PLA plastic that will work in a shredder. And a shredder produces a fair amount of torque to push the blades through several sheets of paper, the original gear was made from nylon but a paper jam ruined it anyway. An hour or two in Fusion360 and however many hours the printer needs is good enough for some DIY repairs.
Hope all is going well. Great to see more content. I have the same mixer, will try this. You are up there with only a few others as far as I'm concerned. I finally retired and have time for some projects. The Baby Bullet looks like an excellent one to start on. Wondering if I could get a set of PDF drawings for the Baby Bullet Project? They are no longer on the Blogspot, or Thingiverse.
Hobart sold the Kitchen Aid division to Whirlpool in 1986 and then the MBA’s took over. The ladies have a fine mixer for making cakes and cookies but if they are going to be making bread weekly or more then they need to up their game to something more robust like a Hobart N50 mixer $$$$. Ankarsrum seems to be a solid bread making machine for under $1k. Some mixers run on three phase but buying the wife a mixer would be like her buying you a new vertical mill. My suggestion would be to up her game and let her pick out the mixer she wants. Currently there are a few Hobart N50 on eBay for less then $2k that seem to be in good shape. A caveat, the Hobart N50 weighs just over 50 pounds so you just don’t put it in a cabinet above the kitchen sink. That said a Hobart N50 for home use will be handed down for at least four generations.
those gears re not "weak". it's a common practice in kitchen appliances to have a one drive part purposefully destructible. that's basically a motor stall prevention.
I am also a home bread maker. I made double batches. Killed 3 machines before I discovered Kitchenaids DC power mixer. Much more powerful. Never had a failure since. Side benefit, it’s much much more quiet and never walks across the counter.
@@oxtoolco yes, KitchenAid Pro Line 7-Quart Stand Mixer. W80112612. 1.3 HP High Efficiency Motor. Claims to handle 16 cups of flour in a single batch. I bought mine over 10 years ago. Highly recommend.
Tom…. Love the content… I always learn something. Love the oil can porn on your back wall too…. The plastic gear might be a designed weak link…. Because the next weakest link in the chain might not be as fun…. Maybe the helical gears could be made out of something in between the original plastic and the bronze…. Phenolic, zinc, aluminum…. Just spitballing…. All the best… Chuck.
When you said the starter originated from the civil war, I first thought of an electric starter for the motor and that such were not in common use during the civil war. But on second thought, you mean the starter culture for the dough...
Great machining exercise but this is a safety issue. These gears are mechanical safeties not only for the mixer but for the user as well. The pin that runs through the gear could be argued is an additional safety but I've seen those pins shear and jam in such a way as to render counting on them a no-go. Also, out of all the gears in the mixer, that is really the only one that wears to any significant amount and now you'll be introducing much more wear metal into the mechanism. This isn't only for the mixing paddles and bowl but for the myriad of attachments these mixers can run too.
Yes it is understood that this new gear defeats the mechanical overload intention of the plastic gear. In the finest tradition of American Hot rodding we will now see where the weak link is.....
All the best,
Tom
It's gonna be your friend's fingers isn't it
should be the crosspin that holds this gear on
No, the injected plastics are just cheap, that’s the only reason. if they wanted an overload protection, they could have built and ball and spring overload clutch type, or other other real overload clutches
@@emilgabor88yes that would be the best for the consumer. It’s much better for the manufacturer to eliminate the extra labor and materials to produce that so they can sell a ton of cheap plastic gears. On top of that, how many people just chunk the mixer when it stops and buy a new one.
@@emilgabor88 It's literally in the Kitchenaid manual you fool
Probably important to note that the original gear was probably designed as the "mechanical fuse" in the system to save the motor in case of overlaoding
This is the explanation I've also always heard for why KA chose to use plastic. But I'm no MechE and would love to hear a more definitive opinion. It'd be bad if this just made the next weakest (and probably more expensive) part fail under high load conditions.
This is my understanding as well. Purpose design failure point.
I just came here to post that. Considering how well KitchenAid mixers are made, it seems odd that they would cheap out and use plastic instead of sintered bronze, or something like that unless there was a mechanical reason.
Yep that would be my worry is what breaks next. I have run a pair of Kenwood Chefs making all the bread for a Cafe without an issue and maybe I should open one up for a look 😜 I really need to buy a 10-20L commercial one but small batches work ok too.
That's probably why Tom mentioned this very fact of mechanical overload protection in the video description.😀
Excellent Job!!! This video proves you are one of the best instructional machinists on RUclips. You teach methods that are applicable to the home shop machinist. Thank You for all your hard work!!
just watched this again... every step is so useful. Just the manipulation alone is cool to watch. Great job.
You must be magically psychic, Tom. I am in the middle of a project where I have to nod the head of my mill to 30 degrees, machine a flat on the edge of some half inch plate, and then drill holes at 30 degrees dead center, on the just made, slanted section. I was trying to figure out a clever way to find center and was hating the idea of indicating off of the sharp edge. I was thinking that I was missing some trick of the experienced machinist, yet here you are. Perfect timing and well explained.
Been a machinist since 1970. Semi retired now with a bare bones machine shop in my backyard. Worked in manufacturing, Job shops, tool and fixture making, model making, experimental machining. I still learn from master machinist like Tom.
Thanks Tom. That was a brilliant detailed explanation on using the dividing head, and the math involved. Made this an enjoyable video to watch. Cheers Nobby
Finally, a project to justify all your tools and machinery to the wife. Look at this new gear I made for you, honey. And the best part is I saved us $8! 🤣
That gear is worth more than the entire mixer.
Maybe not worth more but definitley more costly to make.
That was my first thought also. He needed content so probably a wash. 😊
@@unclebobsbees4899 I also get the feeling this is fun for him. Sure, machining is a job, and RUclips is a job, but the sheer ridiculousness of this one seems particularly fun.
Thank you Tom.. feels like a few years back when you were cranking out the masterpieces at high rate. Noticed I’m wearing a tattered ‘The Epic Egress’ tee this evening. Coincidence?? 😊. Thank you so much for the excellent content Sir!
Definitely enjoying this recent series of videos. “Make do and mend” should be taught in schools.
Your enthusiasm for the work is infectious!
The mind boggling precision of being a machinist. I know nothing about the trade but you have my respect.
Excellent fix & video Tom! I'll always remember, "Nothing too strong, ever broke."
It's always a great video, when you fire the Yam up. Love to hear that thing run. Thanks!
I really enjoy these videos. They have been an excellent education for someone that otherwise never had a proper shop class while in school. I made some straight cut gears a few years back for a custom gearbox on my solar tracker. Still working the same as the first day in service. All possible because of videos like this one. Thank you.
Great video! I restored an old Hobart countertop mixer (considerably more skookum than a kitchenaid with a geared transmission), and it too had a fiber-impregnated nylon gear. I also assumed it was a safety feature. If your friend' wife is making considerable batches of bread, highly recommend the Hobart N50
Tom, totally awesome hand made stuff. I love how you talk to yourself in the second / third party, it’s something I do all the time in my garage. Kindest regards from Bonnie Scotland. Joe.
Well I've watched it now and as expected it's well up to your usual standard Tom. I know there's no doubt excellent reasons for the dearth of videos recently, but rest assured they are all very much appreciated and I'm sure I speak for many when I say that I always learn useful, interesting and entertaining stuff from them. Thanks again, it's great to see you back!
Man it's good to see you! Also I just realised something.
When you used to work for a university as a machinist making cool stuff I thought you had the dream job.
Now I have the dream job! So happy to follow your path and can only hope to be as knowledgeable as you.
Really nice results. I get so much out of these videos. Really appreciate you taking the time and effort to make them. Dividing heads are pretty cool, amazing that someone sat down and figured that out, and even with computers it's still a pretty damn good way to do the job.
Your efforts are definitely worth a few loaves of bread !!
Good to see you Tom!!
Very cool! I was kinda expecting a tooling ball to make an appearance. I have done weird stuff with the indexer turned to an angle off the x-axis and the only good way to pickup on the geometry is a drilled and reamed hole in the end of the arbor/mandrel with a tooling ball inserted and indicated. You do need to know the distance from the shoulder on the arbor to the end of it where the tooling ball shoulder hits. It is still a good bit of triangle trig in the end. Love seeing you do projects again!
Truly helical. It was a torture at high school calculating the gear reduction to connect the divider head with the table. Mr. Rucker went through that last year I think. Thanks for the lesson Tom ;)
That was fun, nice job, shop tour please
Great to see you making videos again Tom and this was a good'un. When you set me up with the private tour of the Royal College of Art workshops a decade ago, Steve was having exactly that 'off by one' error mental block about the hole count. My advice to him was, "don't count the holes, count the spaces".
Always fun to watch you play, Tom... Thanks
Russ
I hope you and your family had a very Merry Christmas and are coming up on a very happy New Year
Merry Christmas to you Tom and your Family!
Always nice getting a surprise new Tom vid. Keep up the good work buddy.
Great video. I didn’t know it was possible to make a simulated helical gear as opposed to a true helical that would work so well. We will have to wait and see how well it holds up in the long run.😊
I LOVE the little red ball on your QC toolholder, I'm going to make some for mine. In the past I've sanded down the screw ends to remove the burrs but the ball idea is a better way to save my fingers! GREAT IDEA!!!
Great to have you back making videos and passing on your knowledge! Thanks Tom!
Nice work and setup Tom. Gear looks like it turned out great and I'm sure it works great too.
This is your best type of content! At least, when you're not touring machine shops supporting particle accelerators. Wish CERN would invite you to tour theirs!
I made the exact same tool for edge finding. It's down and dirty but works great. Great minds think alike I guess. Been watching you for years .
Hi After watching you make the gear ,I had a similar problem with machines we used to have they, came in with nylon gears to protect the machine ,From damage, After changing them for a few times we came up with a better system, you can buy small clutches they fit in place and that clutch will save everything if it jams .you do not have to take the entire machine apart there are a few of these small clutches that you can buy and you can adjust them to the setting that you need
I have an older kitchenaid mixer. That gear is bronze in the older ones. Making it plastic was a cost reduction that generates revenue in aftermarket parts
Great to see you back, Tom. Love the Chesley Bonestell print in the background there!
Really neat set up. Enjoyed getting to see you in action. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.
That point alone about the clear holes is worth its weight in gold on the dividing head. That point totally confused me when I began using this device. Brilliant video full of useful stuff. Thanks for sharing.
Tom your videos never fail to tweak my imagination of what I could do if given your talent. That was a tasty meal.
Mr Wizard: The quote on the end screen was cut off, I went and found it:
“I spent three days a week for ten years educating myself in the public library, and it's better than college. People should educate themselves - you can get a complete education for no money. At the end of ten years, I had read every book in the library and I'd written a thousand stories.” “There are worse crimes than burning books. One of them is not reading them."
- Ray Bradbury
What's worse than not reading them. BANNING BOOKS
San Antonio has their public library "SAPL" (free books, ebooks, audio books, DVD's, Blu-ray's, etc...)
Bexar County also has a Digital Library "BiblioTech" (an extra resource of free ebooks, audio books, digital movies, etc...)
Plus Joint Base San Antonio (US Military) has their base library (again all the same)
Tom, put the dough hook in the milling machine, mount the bowl on the table and your wife can mix it in the shop and finally heat treat it. You've got the EDM for slicing.
When the wife was working at a commercial bakery with tubs of dough being mixed you could sit in and 2 others, the gears always wore and or destroyed themselves over time be that short or long due to the nature of distribution of the dough during the mix. A friend had to do a similar repair on a pizza dough mixer for a small shop. Seems it is a engineering hazard.
Greatly appreciate the insights Tom.
You made a fine part but the user needs to know the failsafe is now bypassed. Having Bozo'd and caught a rag in the dough hook more than once, I can absolutely say it the nylon(?) gear saved my hand from getting munched badly. (edit) And after posting this comment I see someone else already had the same mention...
your hand is way softer than that nylon bud
@@wlogue he was saved this time because of the what he calls a RAG more likely the wifes tea towel but i still see where he is coming from also this is but one part do we now replace the rest of the gears or is the next one the fail safe now don't know how many gears there are in it to start with
@@wlogue go back to school. you missed the lever lessons.
More than once!?
Please stay out of the machine shop 🤣
@@bradley3549 LOL 😆 There also happens to be a shear pin that holds the attachments on with the commercial units. Yeah, I have practice replacing those, too. Bakery work, what can I say. These days I only cook up parts in the home shop. Mills and lathes don't make good bread but they are far safer than mixers. 😂
I would never have been able to do the math needed to do that set up. Nice job.
It was an enjoyable video, but the stronger part is likely to make more expensive parts fail the first time something binds in mixer bowl. Your new gear looks strong enough to shove the motor right through the cast aluminum body of the blender. Something the plastic part was designed to prevent.
It's always nice to see a real Master Machinist and engineer work., No CNC just smart. Way to go Tom for showing some tricks of the trade.
AWESOME vid!! Been wondering when we would see content like this again!
👍🏻 thanks for sharing. Always good to see something from the mentor!
This is great. I sheared the power take-off of our kitchenaid while using the pasta attachment and ended up machining the replacement.
Always great to see and learn from you Tom.
I'm so delighted to find a new Ox tools video I had to comment before I even watched it!
G'day Tom. Erispective of some of the comments, I think this was an Excellent Tutorial on how to work out gear cutting angles, setting up & actually cutting the gear, to a full working unit.
😅😅 I'll archive this video in case my Kitchen Air Unit does the same. 😅😊😊
Well done, & like always good work.
Thanks. Ted
Thanks, Tom, for a great video Matt C.
Thank you so much Tom. It’s great to see you in there swinging again.
Is it just a judgment call to decide when a straight cut gear is satisfactory for use in a helical gear system?
Given the centerline distance you came up with, it is highly likely that this gear set was designed using standard AGMA dimensions. Therefore the helix angle at the pitch diameter is probably 30 degrees.
Hi Tom, thanks for the great machine shop lessons. It's very much appreciated!
Helical gear cutting is definitely interesting. Tom, have you seen where a British gentleman rigged linkages to his shaper that cut perfect involute gears? The cutter sets used with milling machines yield close approximations of true involute gears.
How refreshingly practical and informative.
Happy holidays!
Nicely done Tom! Some nice guy sent me a pair of tweezers that look just like yours :) I was thinking gage block against the cutter face to touch off Z.
ATB, Robin
The gear cutter seems to have appeared by magic. How did you determine the diametral pitch or module? Were you lucky enough to have the one you needed? Great to see a new machining video.
Great video,Tom.Thank you.
Awesome project, thank you for sharing!
It’s so nice to hear mm used thanks you
I love gears and I'm looking forward to the helical gears! Maybe someday hypoid gears??? 🙂
Thanks for sharing. Fantastic work. Can you talk us through a curved seat worm gear build?
Thank you Tom!
I wondered how those needle laps were intended to be used. I have some in a tube labeled laps, but never knew the technical name inorder to research them. Several years ago I bought a Kenedy top, bottom, and two middle sections from an old retired machinist, and some of those were in one of the boxes. They look very handy.
Kitchen Aid mixers used to have hardened steel gears, now they are cheap plastic, and they don't last anymore. I've gone through about 1 set of gears every year since i bought my new kitchen aid mixer 5 years ago. The old mixer with the hardened steel gears is still going strong, i've gone through a few sets of brushes, and i've never had to change the gears on the original mixer.
"I saw somebody do that once..."
Gawd that was funny. Made my day - thanks!
What a great video! A very clever solution and great machining skills to match. I wonder how many mixers are out there and how low you could drive the cost with planning and automation.
Curious about gear cutter choice. Did you simply eyeball the cutter or did you know the DP and PA of the gear? I just picked up an Ellis indexing head at an estate sale yesterday. Came with a 6 inch Buck set-tru type chuck. Fantastic work, Tom. Good to see you back in the shop.
great tip for parting blade. thanks!
Thanks for showing what is possible
We have a KitchenAid, one of the more heavy duty models, the kind that raises the bowl and not the slightly less heavyweight kind that the head pivots down to the bowl. Not a hiccup and in fact the mixer was used and refurbed when we got it. We love KA dishwashers and fridges and basically everything they make. The mixers are old tech, and there has been plenty of time to consider alternatives to the weak point gear. It is there for a reason. If you want to make a nice strong all metal one, that's cool, and definitely not a dumb idea. Sometimes you just want to DO the thing and make it better and I get that. But I would just buy another plastic gear, me.
I learned my lesson fixing my corded Ryobi electric mower. We have a pretty good sized yard and here in New Orleans, during the more rainy months the grass grows crazy fast and sometimes it won't stop raining for you to mow, so the little 13a mower, which has a 20" blade, really struggles. There is a soft plastic flange that holds the blade onto the shaft, and after enough abuse, it deforms enough that finally the holdey bits that secure the blade just shear right off. After replacing that $10 part twice, I decided to make one out of Aluminum. I considered 1018 mild steel but my wisdom told me no, it is weak for a reason, because it is about the easiest part to replace besides the blade itself. So 6061 got the vote. A few months later, the motor gives up the ghost, overheated and quit, but this time for good, (verified with meter) and it cost me about 2/3 the price of the mower to get a new one. I did, and a couple weeks later, the mower deck cracks. So I gave up, fiberglassed it back together, and tossed the metal blade mounting flange and replaced it with an aftermarket plastic replacement and me and my mower and jungle growing grass get along just fine, now. I no longer try to second guess product engineers that put together an appliance that has a good reputation won over years of customer abuse. Usually it is how it is because that is the best way for it to be is.
Really enjoyed watching the set up. As a retired carpenter and metal worker seeing how others figure out their sequence of operations is inspiring . Tom, if you read this, a couple of episodes ago you reworked some pliers, and when you were reassembling them you used super lube I think you said. What is it? I'm rebuilding a vintage table saw for my shop and would like to use it on some of the hard to access moving parts.
always great stuff, tom - thank you!
Hey Tom, this gear is plastic for a reason .....Words taken from a Kitchenaid company repair blog >>> "There's a single nylon gear. The rest are made of metal. They've been using a sacrificial worm gear since the 1960s.
KitchenAid switched to all-metal gears on their high-end models fairly recently. In the past, all models had a nylon gear, but the new high-end mixers use electronics to protect the motor." Take care Bud. Regards, greg
Tom knows that... Not his first rodeo. He lives in failure modes...
"but the new high-end mixers use electronics to protect the motor." figure out the short circuit current of the motor and add a circuit breaker.
Beside the motor burning up what would happen now is she got her hand stuck in it ?would it burn up the brass pully or keep turning and mangle the hand ?
@@cornnatron3030 if you put your hand in a running blender, you've earned the right to play a piano upside down.
@@Failure_Is_An_Option If he knows that then why is he bypassing it?
6:39, you could use the pin here touching the OD of the bar too right? Given the orientation of the cylinders they'd only have a single point of contact and could be more accurate. Maybe that's not really necessary here though.
Hey Tom, been watching for years and I've never gotten an answer... What kind of tweezers are those?
Hey Tom, do you keep all of your drawings you make like the one you show in the video at 13:55? If you do I'd be curious to know what you method of storing/organizing them is.
That was a very interesting project. Gears kinda scare me! I sure I'll manage to screw the process up. However if I ever try to make a gear I'll let you know how it turned out. Thanks for video. KOKO!
now that is an oxtoolco video, thanks Tom, good one,,,,
Until recently I believed this is the kind of skill and equipment required to make a replacement gear for appliances that don't have parts available for sale.
On a lark and to practice parametric modeling for my 3D printing hobby I tried creating replacement gears for a paper shredder. There were some failures but to my surprise a strong enough part can be made from PLA plastic that will work in a shredder. And a shredder produces a fair amount of torque to push the blades through several sheets of paper, the original gear was made from nylon but a paper jam ruined it anyway.
An hour or two in Fusion360 and however many hours the printer needs is good enough for some DIY repairs.
Very nice work sir
Hope all is going well. Great to see more content. I have the same mixer, will try this. You are up there with only a few others as far as I'm concerned. I finally retired and have time for some projects. The Baby Bullet looks like an excellent one to start on. Wondering if I could get a set of PDF drawings for the Baby Bullet Project? They are no longer on the Blogspot, or Thingiverse.
And that’s why you wanted a sharp corner there 54:07 to measure off of. Thinking ahead 👍
Regards, Rex
VERY IMPRESSIVE, Sir!
Wondering, is the armature in fact heat treated?
Nice job!
Keep up the good work
JIM ❤
Hobart sold the Kitchen Aid division to Whirlpool in 1986 and then the MBA’s took over. The ladies have a fine mixer for making cakes and cookies but if they are going to be making bread weekly or more then they need to up their game to something more robust like a Hobart N50 mixer $$$$. Ankarsrum seems to be a solid bread making machine for under $1k. Some mixers run on three phase but buying the wife a mixer would be like her buying you a new vertical mill. My suggestion would be to up her game and let her pick out the mixer she wants. Currently there are a few Hobart N50 on eBay for less then $2k that seem to be in good shape. A caveat, the Hobart N50 weighs just over 50 pounds so you just don’t put it in a cabinet above the kitchen sink. That said a Hobart N50 for home use will be handed down for at least four generations.
Missed your videos!
What a nice surprise what a great repair
Edit: when will these be for sale on your website? 😁
those gears re not "weak". it's a common practice in kitchen appliances to have a one drive part purposefully destructible.
that's basically a motor stall prevention.
I am also a home bread maker. I made double batches. Killed 3 machines before I discovered Kitchenaids DC power mixer. Much more powerful. Never had a failure since. Side benefit, it’s much much more quiet and never walks across the counter.
Nice! Do you have the model number? Sounds like a good upgrade for my wife.
Cheers,
Tom
@@oxtoolco yes, KitchenAid Pro Line 7-Quart Stand Mixer. W80112612. 1.3 HP High Efficiency Motor. Claims to handle 16 cups of flour in a single batch. I bought mine over 10 years ago. Highly recommend.
Tom…. Love the content… I always learn something. Love the oil can porn on your back wall too…. The plastic gear might be a designed weak link…. Because the next weakest link in the chain might not be as fun…. Maybe the helical gears could be made out of something in between the original plastic and the bronze…. Phenolic, zinc, aluminum…. Just spitballing…. All the best… Chuck.
When you said the starter originated from the civil war, I first thought of an electric starter for the motor and that such were not in common use during the civil war. But on second thought, you mean the starter culture for the dough...
Tom, I'd bet that the helix angle is exactly 30 degrees !
In any case, it seems like the angle will determine the contact point. Hm.
Great machining exercise but this is a safety issue. These gears are mechanical safeties not only for the mixer but for the user as well. The pin that runs through the gear could be argued is an additional safety but I've seen those pins shear and jam in such a way as to render counting on them a no-go. Also, out of all the gears in the mixer, that is really the only one that wears to any significant amount and now you'll be introducing much more wear metal into the mechanism. This isn't only for the mixing paddles and bowl but for the myriad of attachments these mixers can run too.