I am repairing a 150 year old door. It is a Douglas fir door . So the old mortised lock is larger then the one I am replacing and precious homeowners put all kinds of other deadbolts and hinge locks . So I am using this method to fix them all , I have 2 of them fixed and it came out flawless , just one more to go , thanks for this video , if I didn’t see this we would have had to buy a new old door lol , love Tommy’s tricks
Thanks again Tom. Your years of experience give you the background and experience with old and new techniques to repair anything that comes at you! Thanks Tom.
Great job Only suggestion for others is to check for lead paint on the door before you start as you don't want to be sanding the paint off and putting lead particles into the air. This concern is of course for old houses not new modern ones.. Thank you guys
One thing I have noticed with Tommy and others is they only apply glue to one surface. It really should be applied to the other surface as well even if it just a thin layer. Otherwise, the dry surface will soak up the glue.
I'm all about taping one side and shoving that hole with plaster of paris and wood glue around a circle plug. With a hollow core door, it's hard to argue for making extra cuts.
"Didn't do a very good job". Don't know how long it lasted but it worked for that length of time. This was necessary to reuse the door but add different hardware. But I learned something
The best way to make this is to cut half out the vertical member, open mortise the wood and prepare a piece that slides in, re-cut the hole and move on. It's the most solid variant and, it has one major benefit. Later, if you want to move to another form of lock, you remove the piece you just made and put another. Obviously, you don't glue it in, just hold it with wood nails, as they did in the old days.
I like how contractors criticize other peoples work. (00:30) But when you say they didn't do a good job on something, they walk out on the job. I had a contractor who said the previous guy working on my house didn't know what he was doing. I then told him his trim work doesn't have 90 degree angles on the doors. He ran away after that. But later came back to demand his pay.
Wish you guys would show the rest of the job. Getting it half done is one thing, but you still have the other side, and you need to fill that gaping mortise hole right?
Thank you so much for showing us how to fix this! I had a renter and without asking me ,he had a friend replace this type lock with a New one and it doesn't fit the hole and he threw away the original lock. WHERE do you think I can get another "old timey" lock AND would you fix the other side exactly at the same spot or offset because of the "glue to it "on the inside?
Here are over fifty to choose from: www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p4712.m570.l1313.TR1.TRC0.A0.H0.Xyale+vintage+door+lock.TRS0&_nkw=yale+vintage+door+lock&_sacat=0
my Aunt had a ''sign'' on her desk that said'' how's come there is never enough time to do a job right ,BUT enough time to do it again to fix the problem. THIS was done right the first time
This is a great video. I have watched this video many times. I am still trying to figure out the best way to repair the door knob hole on my front door. In this video, the pine board is less than half of the door thickness. Do you think it is okay to cut out a section from the door completely and replace it with a lumber or board of full door thickness? My idea is to use both glue and toe nailing (with 3” inch screw) to fix it into the door, then make the hole from scratch. I think this way will give it more strength.
Look into a tongue edge to secure a front door better even a mortise joint this video is interior door. Unless your saving an antique wood door I would buy a new one, fiberglass doors today look as good as wood
So will the PVA glue line telegraph up thru the paint at a later time? You should have memtioned that the grain of the wood in the dutchman wood should run in the same direction as the door.
The America way of installing door knobs is interesting. Not sure why they cut such a big hole for it! In the U.K. We drill just the hole for the spindle.
I was always thought to never butt joint a patch, he should of mitred the patch top and bottom and made the patch nearly double the size, nice half fix all the same 😊
I have the same doors I need to fill but am also wondering if there is a video on how to patch the whole thing to add in a new style door knob without having to use the older style again @This Old House
In my book the mark of a real craftsman is to respect those who came before him. The casual (and almost universal) slur on the worksmanship of "the man who did such a bad job last time" was uncalled for derision. Maybe he didn't have a smart router or modern adhesives or a cross- cut saw, back then. On a more practical note, removing so much of the side style has reduced the strength to only a quarter of its original thickness.
I could really use some help! I’ve got an old wooden door and the door knob is placed about three inches further away from the latch bolt. The latch bolt is approximately 5” long. The door knob is 60+ years old and doesn’t work nor locks. I need to replace it as it is an exterior door. I was thinking of filling the hole and then drilling a new hole in the appropriate place for a new door knob. But I’m not sure what would be the best thing to fill it in with. Any suggestions????
@@Weedug The whole piece *is* a dovetail relative to the door, that's the nature of a dutchmen, with both edges and surface glued. The surrounding door material will fail before the worked area which is now a laminated structure.
Could you do a similar video with minimal tools and materials? If I had to tool-up in order to do the job as described, I'd be better off buying a new door.
A new scratch door slab which you then need to hang in the *existing* jam, i.e. cut to size, chisel the hinge mortise, cut for the knob and mortise hardware, then paint a from scratch door. You're going to have to tool up a bit to cut that 4" deep mortise.
dachee Strength shouldn't be a huge concern for an interior door. Even if it was an exterior door, the jamb will fail if kicked. If someone wants in bad enough, they'll get in. Doors and locks keep honest folks honest.
It is actually a secured door. The glue he's using is stronger than the wood once it dries and sets up. I've done patches like this for years and have yet to have one fail. Nothing lasts forever but this technique is a very good strong repair that can add years of use to a door.
I worked with a guy who owned the construction company and he would just use Bondo, but then again he would use caulk to put on some pieces of baseboard
yes. It already looked pretty rough before, but a new door and fresh install will be sturdier. a lot of comments are mentioning that the dutchman should be much much longer and or larger.
Any tips on what to use to fill up the hole instead of using a patch (as the metal shows through, sanding just exposes it) ? The hole is just under 3" and about 3" in depth. Its a small door knob hole. DryDex stuff just isn't cutting it. Thank you.
Wood. Whatever type the door is made of. Go get some ,cut it in the shape of the hole. Glue it in like in the video. DryDex is just a pink indicator that turns white, so you're either using drywall spackle or wood filler with DryDex indicator in it. Neither of those are for a 3" diameter, "3 deep hole.
Pfft! A fix for the woodworker who can show off all the right tools. Heck, I could do the same thing with a drill, a jointer hand saw, and a C clamp... and never take the door off the hinges! These New England boys gots it way too easy. :p
Imagine having all trade instructors this good. This guy is awesome.
I am repairing a 150 year old door. It is a Douglas fir door . So the old mortised lock is larger then the one I am replacing and precious homeowners put all kinds of other deadbolts and hinge locks . So I am using this method to fix them all , I have 2 of them fixed and it came out flawless , just one more to go , thanks for this video , if I didn’t see this we would have had to buy a new old door lol , love Tommy’s tricks
Quality solid wood doors aren't cheap, this is worth it.
Thanks again Tom. Your years of experience give you the background and experience with old and new techniques to repair anything that comes at you! Thanks Tom.
Tom taught me that the lowly antiquated hand plane and chisel are in fact extremely useful tools even today.
Tommy always does such a great job and he is definitely a "master craftsman!"👍
Tom is the best! I appreciate you Tom!
Just came to read comments by experts with tons more experience than Tom telling us how to do it the right way.
Very hepful to save money. Old door are strong than now. Thanks
I didn't really know what you were doing or talking about until the very end. Good craftsmenship
I love learning about myself. I never knew I could patch a hole.
Use a cheap or old router bit for this folks - 50% of the time there's a hidden fixing in there that will trash it
Great job
Only suggestion for others is to check for lead paint on the door before you start as you don't want to be sanding the paint off and putting lead particles into the air. This concern is of course for old houses not new modern ones..
Thank you guys
Did this following this video. Result was perfect ❤
This was truly exciting to watch and learn. Way to go !
Would have been nice to see the competed job, with hardware in place.
First time I have seen this! Needed this many times! Replaced doors instead! Thanks.
Laughing remembering last time I filled in an old door latch. Not ever gonna show Tommy that job!
Master craftsman right there.
One thing I have noticed with Tommy and others is they only apply glue to one surface. It really should be applied to the other surface as well even if it just a thin layer. Otherwise, the dry surface will soak up the glue.
We *want* the the glue surface to soak up the glue, which is why wood glue is always to be applied liberally.
I find this strangely relaxing. This is like ASMR for men
And women. Having a wiener doesn’t magically make a human more interested in carpentry or power tools.
I'm all about taping one side and shoving that hole with plaster of paris and wood glue around a circle plug. With a hollow core door, it's hard to argue for making extra cuts.
What? that sounds awful. And just buy a new hollow core door in that case.
"Didn't do a very good job". Don't know how long it lasted but it worked for that length of time. This was necessary to reuse the door but add different hardware. But I learned something
This door is gonna look so good!
The best way to make this is to cut half out the vertical member, open mortise the wood and prepare a piece that slides in, re-cut the hole and move on. It's the most solid variant and, it has one major benefit. Later, if you want to move to another form of lock, you remove the piece you just made and put another. Obviously, you don't glue it in, just hold it with wood nails, as they did in the old days.
Excellent as usual. The only add I'd suggest would an elapsed time "mention" for example between glue up and sanding. Thanks for the education.
I like how contractors criticize other peoples work. (00:30) But when you say they didn't do a good job on something, they walk out on the job. I had a contractor who said the previous guy working on my house didn't know what he was doing. I then told him his trim work doesn't have 90 degree angles on the doors. He ran away after that. But later came back to demand his pay.
Wish you guys would show the rest of the job. Getting it half done is one thing, but you still have the other side, and you need to fill that gaping mortise hole right?
mach stormrunner The other side would be the same as this side, and they're putting in a mortice latch, so that doesn't need to be filled.
Really? Thought the mortise latch was just to show why there was a huge filled gap. Fair enough.
I watch this old house hoping that one day I'll have my own house.
Thank you so much for showing us how to fix this! I had a renter and without asking me ,he had a friend replace this type lock with a New one and it doesn't fit the hole and he threw away the original lock. WHERE do you think I can get another "old timey" lock AND would you fix the other side exactly at the same spot or offset because of the "glue to it "on the inside?
Here are over fifty to choose from: www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p4712.m570.l1313.TR1.TRC0.A0.H0.Xyale+vintage+door+lock.TRS0&_nkw=yale+vintage+door+lock&_sacat=0
Wow great video
This guy always makes me feel so inadequate.
that was great to watch
excellent work
Wow.. Very impressive
my Aunt had a ''sign'' on her desk that said'' how's come there is never enough time to do a job right ,BUT enough time to do it again to fix the problem. THIS was done right the first time
fullstrutn is that why you can see a second previous repair after they sand away the paint?
well he could have made and spall replacement at the edge, but he added a lot of unnecesary cost to it
You the man love your work..
Good job little buddy!
To see a master working. Thank You
That’s amazing. Y’all are awesome as always!
Great technique for fixing an old door.
Gratuitous comment as to how I could never do work like that. :)
I did a similar repair, I just put the wood block I made on the inside instead of cutting the front of the door out and having to sand and paint it.
Thanks for the video!
Bravo this is the right way!
Wow. Nice
This is a great video. I have watched this video many times. I am still trying to figure out the best way to repair the door knob hole on my front door.
In this video, the pine board is less than half of the door thickness. Do you think it is okay to cut out a section from the door completely and replace it with a lumber or board of full door thickness? My idea is to use both glue and toe nailing (with 3” inch screw) to fix it into the door, then make the hole from scratch. I think this way will give it more strength.
Look into a tongue edge to secure a front door better even a mortise joint this video is interior door. Unless your saving an antique wood door I would buy a new one, fiberglass doors today look as good as wood
2" dowel
@@rickslaine554Nice rec
Such an art!
Oglądanie prawdziwego fachowca podczas czynności zawsze jest źródłem przyjemności
amazing work can't wait to try
Question. How would you repair the door jamb side?
So nice, top class craftmanship right there.
So will the PVA glue line telegraph up thru the paint at a later time? You should have memtioned that the grain of the wood in the dutchman wood should run in the same direction as the door.
The America way of installing door knobs is interesting. Not sure why they cut such a big hole for it! In the U.K. We drill just the hole for the spindle.
our way is stronger and more secure.
Our burglars are bigger and stronger than your burglars.
ec1275 lol 😂
well.. my bologna has a first name...
+lostintime86 yes we know, it's Little John.
I was always thought to never butt joint a patch, he should of mitred the patch top and bottom and made the patch nearly double the size, nice half fix all the same 😊
Do you think that could be kicked out easier than a larger piece of wood patch? or original undamaged door?
I have the same doors I need to fill but am also wondering if there is a video on how to patch the whole thing to add in a new style door knob without having to use the older style again @This Old House
It's the same process, just account for the final cutout size and shape when you patch.
Tommy’s the man
Just one thing. What about a hole for the striker? Is`t there a gap between the two Dutchmen?
So this glue bond is going to hold after years of this door being used?
As a Dutchman myself, I don't know whether to be honoured or offended by this ;)
Dutch people are most miserly people and most unwilling people to spend money.
The word you're looking for is "thrifty".
So who keeps all those young ladies in business in Amsterdam?
Ah yes not the Dutch, they just use the city to park their bikes
Dutchmen don't really care.
REDSEAman As a result we have actual money on our account and don't live on credit cards here in The Netherlands.
That's great tommy
I have a question, are you familiar with "Bondo"? BTW, to avoid using a chisel to square up router corners, use a square corner router bit.
Bondo is really hack carpentry. It IS great for auto body though.
If you would of routed out the repair area just a little larger, you could of screwed and glued it, would be stronger.
In my book the mark of a real craftsman is to respect those who came before him. The casual (and almost universal) slur on the worksmanship of "the man who did such a bad job last time" was uncalled for derision. Maybe he didn't have a smart router or modern adhesives or a cross- cut saw, back then. On a more practical note, removing so much of the side style has reduced the strength to only a quarter of its original thickness.
What is the best way to replace mortise with deadbolt since it seems adding filler does not looks nice and sturdy
Yeah, good job.
very nice !!
Any consideration for lead based paint dust from sanding? I appreciate repurposed materials but would rather have a lead free home.
I could really use some help! I’ve got an old wooden door and the door knob is placed about three inches further away from the latch bolt. The latch bolt is approximately 5” long. The door knob is 60+ years old and doesn’t work nor locks. I need to replace it as it is an exterior door. I was thinking of filling the hole and then drilling a new hole in the appropriate place for a new door knob. But I’m not sure what would be the best thing to fill it in with. Any suggestions????
Nice patch but wouldn’t the dutchman just pop off whenever an intruder lightly kicks the door?
It should be dovetailed
@@Weedug The whole piece *is* a dovetail relative to the door, that's the nature of a dutchmen, with both edges and surface glued. The surrounding door material will fail before the worked area which is now a laminated structure.
Wow, you guys remember that North Webster house you built? Around 1998-1999!
very nice
Could you do a similar video with minimal tools and materials? If I had to tool-up in order to do the job as described, I'd be better off buying a new door.
A new scratch door slab which you then need to hang in the *existing* jam, i.e. cut to size, chisel the hinge mortise, cut for the knob and mortise hardware, then paint a from scratch door. You're going to have to tool up a bit to cut that 4" deep mortise.
nice job
Great info.
good job
Wow, with this repair, the door lock is now only held in placed by glue! What a secured door!
+dachee It's most likely an interior door. No deadbolt.
Thanks
dachee Strength shouldn't be a huge concern for an interior door.
Even if it was an exterior door, the jamb will fail if kicked. If someone wants in bad enough, they'll get in. Doors and locks keep honest folks honest.
Also, glue is stronger than the wood itself.
It is actually a secured door. The glue he's using is stronger than the wood once it dries and sets up.
I've done patches like this for years and have yet to have one fail. Nothing lasts forever but this technique is a very good strong repair that can add years of use to a door.
He’s the best, Norm Abram too
Is wood glue strong enough to hold that patch on with repeated pulling and pushing and slamming? Or against a burglar?
Yes, wood glue is very strong. Usually, wood will break before the glued joint does.
I worked with a guy who owned the construction company and he would just use Bondo, but then again he would use caulk to put on some pieces of baseboard
You're a badass, you know that Tom?
He is a Masshole
How strong is the dutchman? Will it impair the security of the door?
yes. It already looked pretty rough before, but a new door and fresh install will be sturdier. a lot of comments are mentioning that the dutchman should be much much longer and or larger.
would have been nice to see the project to its conclusion.
That's one way to do it I guess, but if it was me, I would just tell the Dutchman to do it and I'd go get us some coffee and donuts.
Yep that glue is strong enough to keep the thieves out.
When reading the title I actually thought the door was repaired by a dutchman. Disappointing.
matroosoft don't think about the impossible
Do you know he wasn't?
I LOVE GOLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLD
Lmao stfu. Ya fockin’ weerdo.
matroosoft The accent is New England.
ik doe het stuk makkelijker en even mooi.
I don't need one on anything but I want to make a Dutchman.
amazing !!!!!
Any tips on what to use to fill up the hole instead of using a patch (as the metal shows through, sanding just exposes it) ? The hole is just under 3" and about 3" in depth. Its a small door knob hole. DryDex stuff just isn't cutting it. Thank you.
Wood. Whatever type the door is made of. Go get some ,cut it in the shape of the hole. Glue it in like in the video. DryDex is just a pink indicator that turns white, so you're either using drywall spackle or wood filler with DryDex indicator in it. Neither of those are for a 3" diameter, "3 deep hole.
Builders bog
Any word on if this mod is fully compatible with the blue retro internal controller port adapter?
If he threw the door across the room it would be a flying dutchman.
I'm guessing this is for inside doors only? Because it seems to compromise the security of the door otherwise.
All doors have compromised security with or without a patch.
What do you do when you have to do this on a metal exterior door???
Except the grain of the door which was there won't match.
Patch will be obvious unless you remove the grain from an entire door
It looks like it’s getting painted. For a normal wood grain door, what can one do? Try to match the grain?
Two serious professionals using a screwdriver is a chisel😂😂😂
Pfft! A fix for the woodworker who can show off all the right tools. Heck, I could do the same thing with a drill, a jointer hand saw, and a C clamp... and never take the door off the hinges! These New England boys gots it way too easy. :p
great, i need to do that in the doorway half. i can just do it the same way.
It's picky I know, but the clamps straight onto the door on the reverse side without any padding protection gives me the fear.
Does this weaken the structural rigidity of the door?
To
lattitude01:
No; of course not.
Question: Will you go through the same process on the other side of the door?
Yes. He says that near the end of the video.