Nice! Just a tip, the long 3" screws should have been installed on the doorstop side (the side where the weather stripping is). This ensures that you not only grab the 2X4s, but you also have the maximum amount of it to prevent forced entry. Also, I'd recommend making the hole in the jamb for the deadbolt more oblong (top to bottom) this helps with shifting foundations. You can do this by marking the centre of the hole, and stitching 2 1" diameter holes together and chisel for cleanup to make it look professional.
The screws are only as good as the plate itself. Good screws with massive shear loads will hold but the end of that strike plate will just pop out. Obviously, every door has it’s limits too. When I do this I try and use a #10x3 but have done #12x4 on garage doors. Usually whatever will sit flush in the plate. Spax screws and GRK R4 screws are great for this.
@@turbotension True, but testing on the reinforcing plate from Schlage has shown that it's sufficient for your normal forcing attacks....perhaps not enough for driving a forklift through but then again, who's driving a forklift to your door? haha, Great input nevertheless.
Thanks for turning off the sound for the drilling parts. Hardly anyone thinks to do that in these how-to videos, but good production skills make a huge difference. This was helpful, thank you.
Great video, but upvote for the first twenty seconds alone. No BS, no cheesy graphics, told me what the video was about and who should watch it. Straight to the point, well done.
The security plate will give better protection if the screws are put closer to the center of the stud wall by rotating the plate 180 degrees. As installed here, they are very close to the edge and easy for a burglar to bust through
Easy to follow and easy to understand the steps. I used to install entry doors about four years ago and am doing one today. This is exactly the refresher course I needed. ✌🏼❤️
Tips for ya : After your done tracing out the template u can cut it with a utility knife first then use the chisel that way the stricke plate can fit perfect with no gaps!
Thank you, Tiffany! I very much appreciate the kind words and the like. It really is the best way to support my videos. I’m glad the video helped you and I hope you have a great day!
i always use a sharp razor knife to cut the outline of the plate - first screw the plate in place then cut around it to get nice lines to follow up with !
Great job all around with your video. Short, clear explanations with your demonstrating, silencing the drill noise, easy to follow. Gave it a like and subscribed. Thank you!
Thank you for showing this. I'm frantically trying to install the last of my Mother's door locks and the strike plate my Dad previously installed will not allow the dead bolt to enter. I was able to insert the dead bolt into the existing hole but the size of the new strike plate needed to be chiseled longer, or up and down. I'm thankful to know I can just chisel it so thank you.
Good clean work. One suggestion: deepen the bolt hole a little more than needed- this allows for room if the door shifts/swells/etc. And yes 3" screws on the strike.Good vid
Make the hole as small as possible to accommodate the deadbolt regardless of the strike opening. It will be much stronger and in interior applications you may not even need a strike plate depending on your finishing skills.
I was already considering using paint or some other goop to find where the bolt will strike, but I rather like your toothpaste idea. Much easier to clean up. Thanks for the tip and the video!
You could also use a combination square, set it on the edge of the door, push the rule part through till it meets the bolt, tighten, then put the square on the jamb, mark where the rule ends, this method will only work if the door & jamb are level.
Just butchered my first attempt although it works but remembered your video. Wish I had watched it first LOL. Have one more to do and I think you've empowered me...
I also used the toothpaste trick in the past for a reference to install a replacement microwave above the stove. This helped line up the mounting screws in the cabinet above the stove.
yes, the long screws are on the wrong side of the strike plate. You need to redo that. You want them in the center of the 2x4 framing, not the edge. The edge will break easily when someone brute kicks in the door.
Hello. Thank you for the comment. I have redone the incorrect placement of the screws. If someone decides to brute the door, they better also have body armor 😵😂
Hey bro, I have salvaged tools. I have a B&D drill but don't have that bit that makes a hole. What is it called please? Is there anyway to make the hole if that bit is not there? Any way to improvise?
Hello. Getting the bit is by far your best option. They are relatively cheap. It’s called a hole saw bit or auger bit. Both names are accurate. It’s 1” in diameter.
Thanks for uploading this video it's super helpful! I just had a quick question, we're trying to reinforce our door they've had break-ins but we've noticed the wood where the screws were scrumbled as we took them out so now we have to make room for a longer strike plate I assume but we're also having a problem stripping the screws bc it's been hard to get the wood screws to easily screw in. Any tips I see you made a hole first will that help ? Thanks again
Hello. I’m not sure I’m totally understanding your problem. Are you saying that there’s not enough wood or the wood is damaged to the point where the screws won’t grab securely?
I have a metal door with a metal door frame that I want to install a dead bolt on. How hard do you think it would be to cut away the metal on the door frame to install the strike plate and do you have any tips for that?
So i have a question, hopefully you can answer cause i cant really find a solution anywhere...my problem is that the wood inside where the "plate" would go is gone, so i cant screw in a plate in, which causes the door to just open and close easily even when its locked because i cant put a plate there to hold the latch. Im basically looking for how to refill that hole, i was thinking about dry wall? But i honestly have no idea about any of this, so hopefully you can help.
Hello. That’s pretty strange that the wood is gone. Where did it go? Kidding aside, I would not fill with drywall. It’s not durable enough to hold a strike plate over time and provides little to no security as it’s very breakable. I’d either replace the entire door frame (or just that side) or fill with wood. Strange that the wood is gone. Did someone damage the door frame?
@@FastFixRUclips Lol Its all good, but yeah i guess it was just old because it just started breaking off into pieces when i tried to screw it in. I tried to put a small block of wood in there, but it ended up breaking over time.
I don’t know why you didn’t drill the pilot holes before you did the checkout, you had it marked when you traced out the plate then chiseled it away. The toothpaste is a good idea to know where the bolt will fit, I’m going to remember that one. Also there are striker plate jigs that hammer in the border cut without the risk of splitting away the timber close to the edge and can use for doors and door jambs.
I don't believe in tooth brushing, as it is sinful. So I'll have to purchase some toothpaste specifically for this woodworking task. Can this be done with any toothpaste, or only the kind which has fluoride? Will the type made for sensitive teeth work as well? How about whitening toothpaste? There are just so many choices at the Piggly Wiggly.
@@FastFixRUclips Update: I was able to move the regular door latch strike with no problem. The deadbolt is more complicated. I don't want the jamb to look like somebody hacked it up with an axe so I will probably bring in a pro to do that part.
First time installing a deadbolt. The old deadbolt I’m replacing had a hole in the frame that is too small for the new one. I’m talking about the hole behind the strike plate. How would you make it wider?
This is the hole the deadbolt pushes into, right? If so, a hole saw like the one I used in this video is what you need. Mine was 1” if I remember correctly.
@@FastFixRUclips yes. I don’t think the hole saw would work because it’s not a through hole. It’s like 1” deep. I’m having to grind it down with a bit. It’s crazy.
To remove material after cutting the outline, start the chisel cut in the hole facing up or down at your desired thickness removal and it comes out in one chunk a lot of times
Do you use the same drill piece included in the kit to drill on the side of the door for the deadbolt to come out the same one on the door frame for the entrance into the strike plate?
Hello. Both hole boring bits are included in the kit. You'll use the larger sized one for the door to create an opening for the deadbolt. The smaller sized one is used to create a void in the door itself (to house the bolt contraption) and into the door jab for the bolt to extend into. So the answer to your question (as I understand it) is yes. Best of luck!
Can I do the same thing to the door itself? My problem is that my door has the circle hole where the faceplate is supposed to be but it needs to have the standard rectangular one so I can install a smart lock.
Hello. There should be kits/templates that will allow you to accomplish that. So, the edge of the door where the bolt extends out needs to be a rectangle instead of a circle?
Hello. It’s called a hole saw. The drill bit part that the hole saw bit screws onto is called the arbor. You can find them pretty much anywhere with a home improvement section. Thanks for the question 👍
I use a felt round for cabinet doors. Just stick the felt on the bolt center and use a sharpie to color it. Then shut door and work bolt untill it marks the door jam.Easy Peasy!!
Hello. I’d just use sand paper to knock down the edge to give it a nice curve. Perhaps the pros have a different method, but sand paper seems like an easy and fast method. Thanks for the question.
A half-inch router bit used with a router & guide is how it's professionally done, but that's a lot of expense for one or two doors. I've made a round chisel using a 3-inch piece of 3/4"-steel conduit. File the edge to make it sharp, then use it as a chisel in all 4 strike plate corners. It will cut the 1/4-round circle.
Hmm. How do I fill in an old strike plate hole from an old door, with that hole just below where the new hole would be. Seems problematic. Like I need a new frame. Maybe there is away.
Hello. The tool is called a chisel. You can find them at most home improvement stores or Harbor Freight which is where I got mine. Thanks for the question.
In addition to longer screws, the screws should have been placed with the strike plate rotated 180 degrees so there is more wood between the screws and the inside edge of the door. Having the screws so close to the edge is going to make it much easier to kick the door in. This is the reason the screws are not centered in the strike plate, to provide more distance to the edge and therefor more wood to prevent a kick in.
I keep a tube of lipstick in my toolbox just for marking things like you did with the toothpaste. This isn't advisable to do with the wife's favorite makeup though...
The security plate should have been screws next to the inside door frame and the lever handle was facing out. I did like hw he started his chisel in the midddle and worked down and up I will try that next time.
Hello. The strike plate was included in the lock kit and seems satisfactory to me. A larger one would require more modifications to the door jab which I didn’t want to do. Thanks for the question 👍
@@FastFixRUclips 🤣🤣🤣 Here I am scrolling the comments, trying to find out what the heck is with that lever? What have I missed?! I'm trying to learn and it appeared my assumption of how levers go was wrong as I noticed yours in this video teaching others, and no one commented about it. 🤔😂
Hello. Sure. It was part of this kit, but you can buy the hole saw separately if that’s all you need. I believe it’s a 1” bit. IRWIN Door Lock Installation Kit for Wooden Doors (3111001) www.amazon.com/dp/B000EEX5UY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_Y01N02JKY77N221N8QVE
Chiseling is optional, IMO. Its the hardest part, and possible to make a mistake if you arent careful. I checked the exiting doors in my house and they are not chiseled out and Inhadnt even noticed. However, you mus t chizel if the door is tight to the frame. You dont want the door rubbing against it
Hello. Yes, 100% correct. Chiseling can be unforgiving as there’s not much you can do if you remove too much wood. Definitely use care if you need to do any chiseling at all. Excellent and thanks for the advice!
@@FastFixRUclips Well in this case, a decent wood filler which can be screwed into can correct any mistakes. After all it's going to be completely hidden
Hello. Did this happen to you? If so, there are a number of different methods to removing the wood. I'd drive a screw in it and then pull it out. That should do the trick. Best of luck!
Nice! Just a tip, the long 3" screws should have been installed on the doorstop side (the side where the weather stripping is). This ensures that you not only grab the 2X4s, but you also have the maximum amount of it to prevent forced entry. Also, I'd recommend making the hole in the jamb for the deadbolt more oblong (top to bottom) this helps with shifting foundations. You can do this by marking the centre of the hole, and stitching 2 1" diameter holes together and chisel for cleanup to make it look professional.
Great stuff here. I'm going to pin your comment to the top of the list. Thanks for the helpful information!
The screws are only as good as the plate itself. Good screws with massive shear loads will hold but the end of that strike plate will just pop out. Obviously, every door has it’s limits too. When I do this I try and use a #10x3 but have done #12x4 on garage doors. Usually whatever will sit flush in the plate. Spax screws and GRK R4 screws are great for this.
@@turbotension True, but testing on the reinforcing plate from Schlage has shown that it's sufficient for your normal forcing attacks....perhaps not enough for driving a forklift through but then again, who's driving a forklift to your door? haha, Great input nevertheless.
instablaster.
p
Thanks for turning off the sound for the drilling parts. Hardly anyone thinks to do that in these how-to videos, but good production skills make a huge difference. This was helpful, thank you.
Haha, true. I “forgot” on the first few videos I’ve done, but have remembered since. Thanks for the nice comment 👍
Yes!!! That drives me insane too! I make sure to remove it in my videos!!
Grow tf up
Agreed! Such a cool editing touch.
Love the backwards install on the handle.
Yes, it was a big hit! 🤣
Great video, but upvote for the first twenty seconds alone. No BS, no cheesy graphics, told me what the video was about and who should watch it. Straight to the point, well done.
Appreciated! 👍👍👍
I like how considerate this man is by muting the audio of the drilling part.
You are welcome! Always something I couldn’t understand why others didn’t do. Thanks for the comment 👍
The security plate will give better protection if the screws are put closer to the center of the stud wall by rotating the plate 180 degrees. As installed here, they are very close to the edge and easy for a burglar to bust through
Here's how you do a YT vid. Short and sweet and no extra fluff. And muting the volume when operating noisy power tools. Thankyou for a helpful vid 👏
No problem! Thanks for the comment. And yes, my thoughts exactly! Happy New Year.
Great video. I really liked it. Easy to follow. I just had the video running while I was doing the job. I saved $190. Thanks.
Always good to hear money saving stories! I’m also glad you found this video through the first one!
Easy to follow and easy to understand the steps. I used to install entry doors about four years ago and am doing one today. This is exactly the refresher course I needed. ✌🏼❤️
Glad to hear that! Best of luck on the install!
Pretty well presented but why is your door lever mounted backwards?
Haha, you’re the second one to catch that! It has since been installed properly.
Tips for ya : After your done tracing out the template u can cut it with a utility knife first then use the chisel that way the stricke plate can fit perfect with no gaps!
Good tip! Appreciated!
another tip , dont trace it screw the plate where it goes and that will give you a metal edge to trace around with your razor then chisel away.
@@joemaiuro3647 if you trace the plate - the space will be a bit too big-
How would a gap be left if you only use a chisel to make the strike plate divot ?
Not if a razor is used
I don’t usually leave comments but this video was so helpful and informative that leaving a like and comment was the least that I could do. Thank you
Thank you, Tiffany! I very much appreciate the kind words and the like. It really is the best way to support my videos. I’m glad the video helped you and I hope you have a great day!
I'm in the middle of a project right now, and you just confirmed my next move. Thanks for the straight forward video! I just subscribed!
You bet! I appreciate the comment 👍
i always use a sharp razor knife to cut the outline of the plate - first screw the plate in place then cut around it to get nice lines to follow up with !
Good advice! 👍👍👍
Great job all around with your video. Short, clear explanations with your demonstrating, silencing the drill noise, easy to follow. Gave it a like and subscribed. Thank you!
I appreciate that! Thanks 👍
Thank god a someone who can edit a video for the key points. Good job Fast Fix.
Thank you sir! I appreciate the comment 👍
Good hack, but would be a better look if you had the door lever in the correct orientation toward the inside of the door, not the outside.
Hello. Yes….My wife said as much when she saw the handle. It has since been remedied. Thanks for the comment 👍
Saw your video. Did something like this for the first time. Impressed with the result. Thank you. But had to do a little bit of caulking too.
Glad this helped! Ehh, a little caulking isn’t too bad. Been there done that!
I saw someone else use lipstick on the dead bolt which seemed to work well also. Great video!
Haha, yes I can see lipstick working just as well. 👍
Thank you. This video gave me the exact info I needed in my first search on the topic. The toothpaste technique is a absolute time saver!
You are welcome! Glad the video was of some help. I appreciate the comment 👍
Thank you for showing this. I'm frantically trying to install the last of my Mother's door locks and the strike plate my Dad previously installed will not allow the dead bolt to enter. I was able to insert the dead bolt into the existing hole but the size of the new strike plate needed to be chiseled longer, or up and down.
I'm thankful to know I can just chisel it so thank you.
Absolutely! I’m glad this helped solve your problem. Thanks for the comment 👍
This is exactly the information I needed. Nice job explaining and editing!
Thank you! Glad it helped 👍
Thank you so much! You made the mortise cut very easy, even
for a 72 years old female.
Wonderful! Glad to hear that. Nice job! Love reading comments like this ☺️👍👍👍
Good clean work.
One suggestion: deepen the bolt hole a little more than needed- this allows for room if the door shifts/swells/etc. And yes 3" screws on the strike.Good vid
Thanks! I appreciate the suggestion 👍
Make the hole as small as possible to accommodate the deadbolt regardless of the strike opening.
It will be much stronger and in interior applications you may not even need a strike plate depending on your finishing skills.
True story! 👍
False. Entryway should always have a plate and extended screws
Great video! I am not much of a handy man so I always wondered how difficult that was. Looks pretty easy!
It's not bad at all. This was my third time doing this job, so I had little experience as well. Thanks for the comment!
I was already considering using paint or some other goop to find where the bolt will strike, but I rather like your toothpaste idea. Much easier to clean up. Thanks for the tip and the video!
You had the right idea! I had toothpaste nearby for some reason and the idea just hit me. Best of luck on your install!
@@FastFixRUclips Thanks! I definitely feel more confident in doing it after watching your videos. :)
You could also use a combination square, set it on the edge of the door, push the rule part through till it meets the bolt, tighten, then put the square on the jamb, mark where the rule ends,
this method will only work if the door & jamb are level.
Ridiculously helpful! Such a clear explanation :)
Good to hear! I appreciate the comment!
Just butchered my first attempt although it works but remembered your video. Wish I had watched it first LOL. Have one more to do and I think you've empowered me...
Best of lucky, Cindy! The nice thing is, the door jab isn’t something people or you see often. Let me know how it goes!
I did it! Thank you so much for the great video. It all looks great!
Thank you so much for the comment! Sincerely appreciated 👍
This was the video I was looking for, thank you so much!
Glad it was helpful!
Super helpful. Thanks for putting this out there.
No problem! Thank you!
I appreciate this video so much. Thanks for making it.
You bet! Glad it helped you!
I also used the toothpaste trick in the past for a reference to install a replacement microwave above the stove. This helped line up the mounting screws in the cabinet above the stove.
Oh yep! Nice. Who knew, right? Thanks for the comment 👍
Great video , well explained , gave me the confidence to go ahead 👍
Ezccelent! Happy to hear that 👍
yes, the long screws are on the wrong side of the strike plate. You need to redo that. You want them in the center of the 2x4 framing, not the edge. The edge will break easily when someone brute kicks in the door.
Hello. Thank you for the comment. I have redone the incorrect placement of the screws. If someone decides to brute the door, they better also have body armor 😵😂
Excellent instruction. Many thanks for explaining so well.
You’re welcome 👍
Forreal, dope video. Consice, no extra fluff no filler. I can f@#$ with that! Try and get the shortest ad reads when you blow up to match!
No doubt! Cut the bs and just do it, right? Thanks man 👍
Thank you this works flawlessly!
Love to hear it! Thanks for letting me know 👍👍👍
Those are exactly the chisels I got from harbor freight too great video thanks for the advice and info and etc etc etc etc
Haha, yup! Harbor freight for the win...again. Thanks for the comment 👍
Awesome guide, worked well with the kit too. Thanks!
You bet!
Clean, informative, and to the point. Great video! :)) Twas very helpful
Hey, thanks! I appreciate your comment 👍
Great video!! What’s the size of the hole saw used?
I believe it was 1” if I recall. Should say on the packaging if you’re shopping for a kit like the one I used. 👍
It is very useful for me to follow. I wonded how I coulde make a hole on a door frame. Now I underastand what I need to buy tools for this task.
Glad it was helpful!
That toothpaste trick is money! I could of swore i was in the correct location. Toothpaste said otherwise. Thanks a ton
Haha, you bet!
Thank You for the info I need to fix my front door.
Any time!
Great job, simple not to much talking
Glad you liked it!
HAAAA!! Freaking genius!!! I was gonna use paint or whiteout!! Toothpaste I have a lot of! Thanks bro!!
Lol, you bet! 👍👍👍
Hey bro, I have salvaged tools. I have a B&D drill but don't have that bit that makes a hole. What is it called please? Is there anyway to make the hole if that bit is not there? Any way to improvise?
Hello. Getting the bit is by far your best option. They are relatively cheap. It’s called a hole saw bit or auger bit. Both names are accurate. It’s 1” in diameter.
Thanks! Sweet simple method. Let’s get started!
You’re welcome!
Toothpaste! Who would have known! Great work on this how-to!
Lol, right? Thanks for the comment!
Lipstick works well for this too!
Thanks for uploading this video it's super helpful! I just had a quick question, we're trying to reinforce our door they've had break-ins but we've noticed the wood where the screws were scrumbled as we took them out so now we have to make room for a longer strike plate I assume but we're also having a problem stripping the screws bc it's been hard to get the wood screws to easily screw in. Any tips I see you made a hole first will that help ? Thanks again
Hello. I’m not sure I’m totally understanding your problem. Are you saying that there’s not enough wood or the wood is damaged to the point where the screws won’t grab securely?
Yes,when we took out the orig screws the holes kinda crumbled so there's no wood space below each of the holes now
I just assumed we'd have to find a longer strike plate since we can't securely screw the longer nails into the crumbled old wood holes
I have a metal door with a metal door frame that I want to install a dead bolt on. How hard do you think it would be to cut away the metal on the door frame to install the strike plate and do you have any tips for that?
Hello. Sorry, I’ve never attempted to do what you’re describing. Appreciate the question!
So i have a question, hopefully you can answer cause i cant really find a solution anywhere...my problem is that the wood inside where the "plate" would go is gone, so i cant screw in a plate in, which causes the door to just open and close easily even when its locked because i cant put a plate there to hold the latch. Im basically looking for how to refill that hole, i was thinking about dry wall? But i honestly have no idea about any of this, so hopefully you can help.
Hello. That’s pretty strange that the wood is gone. Where did it go? Kidding aside, I would not fill with drywall. It’s not durable enough to hold a strike plate over time and provides little to no security as it’s very breakable. I’d either replace the entire door frame (or just that side) or fill with wood. Strange that the wood is gone. Did someone damage the door frame?
@@FastFixRUclips Lol Its all good, but yeah i guess it was just old because it just started breaking off into pieces when i tried to screw it in. I tried to put a small block of wood in there, but it ended up breaking over time.
I use nail polish to mark where the bolt goes, works like a charm then a simple rag to wipe the bolt where I used the nail polish
Yep, that’ll work!
I don’t know why you didn’t drill the pilot holes before you did the checkout, you had it marked when you traced out the plate then chiseled it away. The toothpaste is a good idea to know where the bolt will fit, I’m going to remember that one. Also there are striker plate jigs that hammer in the border cut without the risk of splitting away the timber close to the edge and can use for doors and door jambs.
Ohh, that’s a good tip. Splintering the wood is the biggest threat in doing this. Nice. Thanks for the suggestion 👍
I don't believe in tooth brushing, as it is sinful. So I'll have to purchase some toothpaste specifically for this woodworking task.
Can this be done with any toothpaste, or only the kind which has fluoride? Will the type made for sensitive teeth work as well? How about whitening toothpaste?
There are just so many choices at the Piggly Wiggly.
A tough conundrum you are in. I’d skip the toothpaste All together and use lipstick or maybe Mayo. I hear Heinz works best. 🤣🤣👍
I have to move a deadbolt strike plate about 1/2”. I’ll use your technique(and a new chisel set) and hope for the best.
Best of luck! Just take your time and be careful. Feel free to let me know how it goes 👍
@@FastFixRUclips Update: I was able to move the regular door latch strike with no problem. The deadbolt is more complicated. I don't want the jamb to look like somebody hacked it up with an axe so I will probably bring in a pro to do that part.
Yup, totally understand that! Good job 👍
First time installing a deadbolt. The old deadbolt I’m replacing had a hole in the frame that is too small for the new one. I’m talking about the hole behind the strike plate. How would you make it wider?
This is the hole the deadbolt pushes into, right? If so, a hole saw like the one I used in this video is what you need. Mine was 1” if I remember correctly.
@@FastFixRUclips yes. I don’t think the hole saw would work because it’s not a through hole. It’s like 1” deep. I’m having to grind it down with a bit. It’s crazy.
v This method of marking is actually strait forward no messing around.
To remove material after cutting the outline, start the chisel cut in the hole facing up or down at your desired thickness removal and it comes out in one chunk a lot of times
Great tip!
Do you use the same drill piece included in the kit to drill on the side of the door for the deadbolt to come out the same one on the door frame for the entrance into the strike plate?
Hello. Both hole boring bits are included in the kit. You'll use the larger sized one for the door to create an opening for the deadbolt. The smaller sized one is used to create a void in the door itself (to house the bolt contraption) and into the door jab for the bolt to extend into. So the answer to your question (as I understand it) is yes. Best of luck!
The toothpaste trick was perfect. Thanks.
You bet!
Can I do the same thing to the door itself? My problem is that my door has the circle hole where the faceplate is supposed to be but it needs to have the standard rectangular one so I can install a smart lock.
Hello. There should be kits/templates that will allow you to accomplish that. So, the edge of the door where the bolt extends out needs to be a rectangle instead of a circle?
@@FastFixRUclips yes, most doors have it "carved" but not my door.
Cool video, what is the name of the bit used to hollow out the bolt lock area? Thanx a bunch 👍🙏😎
Hello. It’s called a hole saw. The drill bit part that the hole saw bit screws onto is called the arbor. You can find them pretty much anywhere with a home improvement section. Thanks for the question 👍
What’s the size of this hole saw drill bit?
I use a felt round for cabinet doors. Just stick the felt on the bolt center and use a sharpie to color it. Then shut door and work bolt untill it marks the door jam.Easy Peasy!!
Oh yep, that would well too. Thanks for the suggestion 👍
Why is the handle to the door the wrong way around?
The honest answer is because I installed it wrong. No other reason except negligence and a bad eye for improperly installed door handles...
Great explanation. Could you please help me understand how can i make the edge curve?
Hello. I’d just use sand paper to knock down the edge to give it a nice curve. Perhaps the pros have a different method, but sand paper seems like an easy and fast method. Thanks for the question.
A half-inch router bit used with a router & guide is how it's professionally done, but that's a lot of expense for one or two doors. I've made a round chisel using a 3-inch piece of 3/4"-steel conduit. File the edge to make it sharp, then use it as a chisel in all 4 strike plate corners. It will cut the 1/4-round circle.
Why is your handle facing the wrong way? Curious.
Hello. I live in Australia and that’s how all of our door handles are. LOL, no I just didn’t realize I had installed it upside backwards. 🤦♂️
I noticed the handle also! :)
Great video, very helpful
Thank you!
Hmm. How do I fill in an old strike plate hole from an old door, with that hole just below where the new hole would be. Seems problematic. Like I need a new frame. Maybe there is away.
Other than removing the frame, I’d cut out and trim a piece of wood then glue it, sand, and paint. Should cover it up fairly well.
What is the name of the tool you used to chip the wood, I didn't get the name of it
Hello. The tool is called a chisel. You can find them at most home improvement stores or Harbor Freight which is where I got mine. Thanks for the question.
In addition to longer screws, the screws should have been placed with the strike plate rotated 180 degrees so there is more wood between the screws and the inside edge of the door. Having the screws so close to the edge is going to make it much easier to kick the door in.
This is the reason the screws are not centered in the strike plate, to provide more distance to the edge and therefor more wood to prevent a kick in.
Good info 👍
Great hack....I have 7 mortise locks to install so this is perfect
Glad it helped! Thanks for the comment 👍
What to do if you have a latch hole that is incorreclty measured and must be redone? Can you fill it with wood filler and redrill the hole?
how much wood was removed? Or, how much wood filler would you be using? Too much will crack and screws will not be secure.
@@FastFixRUclips 1 1/2 length, 1 inch width, 1/2 inch depth.
If this is a big hole to be filled with filler, what would be other solutions?
Great video, sir.
Thank you kindly! I appreciate your comment 👍👍👍
I keep a tube of lipstick in my toolbox just for marking things like you did with the toothpaste. This isn't advisable to do with the wife's favorite makeup though...
Ha! Indeed! 🤣🤣🤣
The security plate should have been screws next to the inside door frame and the lever handle was facing out. I did like hw he started his chisel in the midddle and worked down and up I will try that next time.
Haha, yeah you’re the 3rd one to bust me on the door handle. Not sure how I didn’t catch that... thanks for the comment! 👍
Was the handle on the door at start on back to front 😂
Yup. Never gonna hear the end of it either. 😂🤣😂
How did you get the wood plug out after using the hole saw?
Hello. It actually comes out in the hole saw bit 👍
@@FastFixRUclips There must have been separate layers of wood in that door frame. The hole saw won't cut the bottom of a hole, right?
nice job. why not put in larger safer strike plate?
Hello. The strike plate was included in the lock kit and seems satisfactory to me. A larger one would require more modifications to the door jab which I didn’t want to do. Thanks for the question 👍
Great video!
I've never seen the doorlatch lever positioned like that... does it work better for you in this position?
🤣🤣🤣 this is by far the best shade thrown at my upside down door handle. Bravo good sir! 👍
@@FastFixRUclips 🤣🤣🤣 Here I am scrolling the comments, trying to find out what the heck is with that lever? What have I missed?! I'm trying to learn and it appeared my assumption of how levers go was wrong as I noticed yours in this video teaching others, and no one commented about it. 🤔😂
Try marking with lipstick. Works good!
Yep, that works well! Thanks for the comment 👍
Question for you..could you have used the guide and router bit instead of chiseling the whole strike plate out?
Hello. Yes, the guide and router but should provide a good template to make this look a bit nicer.
Great video, well done. Thanks
You’re welcome! I appreciate the comment
Your vid helped me . Thanks
Glad to hear that! I appreciate the comment 👍
Thank you for the easy tutorial. The only change I will make is useing nail polish.
Hello! You’re welcome! Nailpolish, toothpaste, pasta sauce… all work! 😂👍
Good video. But why is the door handle backward?
Great question! Simple answer is, I somehow installed it wrong and didn’t notice. It has since been corrected.
right handed lever type door lock installed at left handed door! hehe. joking
Awesome video homie
Thanks! Comment appreciated 👍
Can you provide an amazon link for the hole saw bit that you used or recommend?
Hello. Sure. It was part of this kit, but you can buy the hole saw separately if that’s all you need. I believe it’s a 1” bit.
IRWIN Door Lock Installation Kit for Wooden Doors (3111001) www.amazon.com/dp/B000EEX5UY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_Y01N02JKY77N221N8QVE
Super ,thank you very much , sab and like afcourse.
Thank you! Much appreciated 👍
you attached the reinforced strike plate to door jamb and not the 2 x 4 in the wall. same effect as a 1" screw
Correct. Mistakes… I made one yesterday at a vegas slot machine.
Why is your door handle going the wrong direction?
Because I installed it upside down. The wife pointed it out and it’s good now.
Why did you install the lever like that?
Brain fart…caught it later. Of course the damage was done and been catching hell every since!
Thanks for the Tooth paste methode! Cant wait to do my door
You are welcome! I appreciate the comment 🎃
Chiseling is optional, IMO. Its the hardest part, and possible to make a mistake if you arent careful. I checked the exiting doors in my house and they are not chiseled out and Inhadnt even noticed.
However, you mus t chizel if the door is tight to the frame. You dont want the door rubbing against it
Hello. Yes, 100% correct. Chiseling can be unforgiving as there’s not much you can do if you remove too much wood. Definitely use care if you need to do any chiseling at all. Excellent and thanks for the advice!
@@FastFixRUclips Well in this case, a decent wood filler which can be screwed into can correct any mistakes. After all it's going to be completely hidden
Whats the name of that tool u used on the drill to make the hole!!
Hello. It’s known as an auger bit or hole saw bit. There’s a link for the tools in the description. Thanks for the question.
Appreciate it
what happens if the piece of wood inside doesn't come out with the mortise tool?
Hello. Did this happen to you? If so, there are a number of different methods to removing the wood. I'd drive a screw in it and then pull it out. That should do the trick. Best of luck!
Great job. Ty.
You bet! Thanks for the comment 👍
Why is the door handle on backwards??
I goofed it up and didn’t notice….my wife did, however and it has since been remedied.
Dude, this was an awesome hack. I'll be using it next week.
Then you can put an add on Craigslist and do it for a living as a contractor.