Pro tip for the professionals out there that like to have everything to be perfect. Turn the piece of filament so that way the bow is turning upwards, or I suppose downwards is fine. Then flatten it out and tape the two ends to the table before measuring. That will make your Measurement way more accurate
Yes @SDa.......you bring up an excellent point that I noticed right off. The shortest distance between two points (in this case the most accurate distance or measurement) is a straight line. The video example Jim shows is NOT using a straight line and the filament sample is actually a radius! I worked in Production Automation with CNC’s (3, 4, and 5 axis) making parts for IBM with tolerances of .005mm (.0002 in) using MAFord solid carbide tooling (spade drill, spiral fluted drill @.0057 dia, and end mills @ .093dia) on Delrin 100 and Vespel 500 composite and actually holding half that tolerance. Would never get anywhere with that style of measurement. These videos are informative but when someone shows such a blatant, inaccurate technique I have to say something. Tape on the ends to hold the true length sounds better than what was shown. Perfectionist? Maybe! Professional? Always! CONSISTENCY is the name of the game with CNC production and these printers are basically 3-axis (and the ‘feeder’ for the extruder could be considered a 4th axis) CNC’s using the same Gcode used in Nc’s and CNC’s since the 1950’s. I also have considerable experience programming in Industrial code, Gcode, Mcode, etc. and in about 9 different versions as these languages are often proprietary to a particular machine brand.
Marco. You saved me some frustration. Was about to throw my phone because this was not mentioned in the vid. Thank you. I would say though, after you make adjustments and run a proper 100mm piece, remember to store your settings. I forgot to twice, then remembered seeing that option under control/store settings. Worked great. Thanks again.
Jim, just a tip for this one if you ever re-do this video in the future. Your formulas the way you wrote them up could confuse some. I figured out what you did but here is what might be better. Step 1: 100/Measured Length= n Have the Measure length noted off to the side in a list of your variables. Step 2: Step 1 * Current Estep value. Again have the value for the Current Estep noted in a list on the side instead of in your formula. What one might interpret what you wrote as the following. step 1: 100/(Measured length/87) Step 2: Step 1 X(Current Estep/93). I hope you find this feedback helpful in the future.
@@TheEdgeofTech No problem Jim. I will send you a Google sheets example of what I'm talking about via my business account puppets3Dcreations at Gmail dot com.
@@Juz10xD Me too. I thought his formula was different since i was able to calibrate without using that formula. I also thought that's what he meant by hia formula being confusing is about that but turns out it was about the 93 e steps
@@Juz10xD all good. I was just thinking if my formula was different when i was watching his. And i realised he wrote the formula against all math conventions.
Some parts were a little confusing at first until I pulled out my common sense and then this video was extremely helpful! My printer hasn't been acting right for months even after a few other e-step calibration videos. Finally, everything is working PERFECTLY! Thank you!
This has been a much better guide on how to calculate e-steps. I spent a little bit trying to re-find this video because all of the others just breezed over it. Thanks for being thorough!
To anyone else that might be confused about the flow rate and wall width: The walls of the cube are 2*(nozzle size), so if you have a 0.4mm nozzle you should get a 0.8mm wall after printing!
@@ontariodigger162 there is no need to change anything in Cura, it will always try to print it 0.8mm wide since the 3D model says so (if you use a 0.4mm nozzle and the 0.4mm stl file). Just print it and measure it
You're guide completes me. I got my e steps figured out (adjusted to 96 and its dead on 100mm +- 0.2) and my flow rate actually went down to 95%. Thanks for the guide.
Is it any surprise you INCREASED your Esteps and now you have to DECREASE your flow? It's not because you got your Estep number correct. All you did was shift the calculations for the end result around.
Dude.....can't thank you enough. I was virtually done with these Enders. Works like a charm now. The way you explain and walk thorough the steps. You're nothing short of awesome
Had zits / blobs in my exstrution. Tried many thing but since my spool was running low finally got time to go trough these steps. My prints are awesome to perfect in my consideration. Thx man! This was a great help and for now own. flowcube, small test and only need to adjust the flowrate. Thanks for the great explanation! It helped.
Took me a minute to find. He copied it from the guide he links to under the description. Bettter late than never but hopefully you figured it out already
My Original E Step was 98.94, My New EStep is 135.534, Approx 136. I type M92 E136 in Octotprint Terminal to modify the current EStep value. Then M500 to write new ESstep value to EEPROM. Then M503 to read saved value. Then I extruded another 100mm and it was spot on,Thank you!
I changed my extruder to a dual gear one, and YOU amazing man helped me tune perfectly! Everything was well explained, sooo....THANK YOUUUU!! I love your channel, and I hope your arm healed very nicely!!
@@TheEdgeofTech It's slightly fruystrating that with cura you have to use a plugin to get flow into the per meterial settings despite people asking for it for years at this point.
Spot-on explaination :) I did some flowrate calibration for the filament spools that are most commonly used when I'm printing things, mostly PLA and PETG. Once filament have been dried, across brands, well, there are subtle differences. From brand to brand, PLA yielded values between 0.95 and 0.98... PETG being either 0.99 or 1 (using PrusaSlicer). Subtle, yet not to be overlooked. Minor changes can produce a world of difference.
Bro. I love your video. My printer is running awesome now. I had NIGHTMARE stringing. I'm new to 3d. 5 days new. Got my Capricorn rolling from last video. Doing my Esteps now. It's rocking and rolling! Thanks!
My esteps were at 93, that seems to be the default for Ender 3. I extruded 97mm. I put in my new esteps which was 95.8 and extruded again. I got 100mm exactly, right on the dot. You don't want to go over 100. That results in over extrusion.
Luke changed the original file. The first file was one wall, 0.4. Now it is two wall, 0.8. That makes this video a little bit misleading and diffucult to understand if you are new to 3d printing and if mathematics arent your strong side. Thanks for the videos you are making ! It really helps a noob like med =)
Hey, I will double check the description, but the help guide should be linked there. If possible I would do this right on the printer or by hooking the printer up to the computer if possible. I have videos on both ways and that's a way better solution.
Great video. Only issue I seen is that the filament should be measured when strait. In video it shows being measured when at arc which will result in a shorter then actual measurement
You have a good point. Luckily an arch that wide will likely not impact the measurement enough to be a huge problem. The length difference with that arch and a straight piece is likely somewhere under 0.01 range.
Great video, but I have one comment. When I see you write the Measured Length then a line with the number underneath, I read that as the measured length divided by #. Maybe just the math nerd in me. You did a great job of talking through it when I went back and actually listened to what you said instead of just reading what you wrote.
@@TheEdgeofTech love the video! I agree with this comment and would add that you could simply edit out the part where your E steps and mm length happened to be the same number :)
thanks bud after banging my head against the wall I couldn't figure out why my ender 3 was printing weak under extruded Prints and then I came across your video and figured out that my printer had the wrong e-steps setting in and it was only extruding about half of what it should have been extruding after I put the new values in everything was good
@TEoT measurement off but I still gave this a thumbs-up! The shortest distance between two points (in this case the most accurate distance or measurement) is a straight line. The video example shown is NOT using a straight line and the filament sample is actually a radius! I worked in Production Automation with CNC’s (3, 4, and 5 axis) making parts for IBM with tolerances of .005mm (.0002 in) using MAFord solid carbide tooling (spade drill, spiral fluted drill @.0057 dia, and end mills @ .093dia) on Delrin 100 and Vespel 500 composite and actually holding half that tolerance. Would never get anywhere with that style of measurement. These videos are informative but when someone shows such a blatant, inaccurate technique I have to say something. Tape on the ends to hold the true length sounds better than what was shown. Perfectionist? Maybe! Professional? Always! CONSISTENCY is the name of the game with CNC production and these printers are basically 3-axis (and the ‘feeder’ for the extruder could be considered a 4th axis) CNC’s using the same Gcode used in Nc’s and CNC’s since the 1950’s. I also have considerable experience programming in Industrial code, Gcode, Mcode, etc. and in about 9 different versions as these languages are often proprietary to a particular machine brand.
Good video. The math formulas are expressed incorrectly: 100 / (Current measured length) * 93 = (New e-Step) Also you don't actually need to snip off the filament. Just trim the ends and measure with the caliper's upper jaws (used for inside measurements) against the extruder to the tip of the filament.
Not sure if I am repeating others, but the math is simpler: the printer did N steps (NS) and advanced L (in mm) so: NS*93=L, you want NS*Estep=100, so Estep = 100/L*93
Oh that free air method is naughty! Better than trying to piss around with a sharpie pen trying to mark a curly piece of filament with my shitty cheap amazon callipers *Had to add, fantastic video. Great clarity, Thankyou sir!! Your to the point clear instructions have saved me from many hours of frustration trying to trial and error this Thankyou
awesome video has already helped a ton with most of my filaments. I have a new filament (tough PLA) im finding the various between the side vary high (did the .8mm cube) these were my measurements: 0.77, 0.87, 0.77, 0.84, 0.82, 0.82, 0.79, 0.88. in all my other filaments my variation wasn't more then .05m but this canadian makers tough pla is .10mm off. If anyone knows why that would be awesome!
Bit late to reply, most likely reason is because of the extra additives in the filament causing small/minor blockages and then surges in the nozzle. I've been tinkering with CF-PLA and CF-PETG and it's a turd to print cos the fibres are randomly aligned in the filament, so collide with each other when it's melted and compressed in the nozzle....even with a 0.6mm nozzle Im still getting under and over extrusion issues Best solution it seems is lower the nozzle pressure, so everything can compress and align before causing a flow restriction/surge
when you measure the filament make sure it is not bent like you show in the video because if you straighten the filament you might be surprised that you are under measuring the true extruded length.
Thanks! As I have commented many times, I measured it straight with the help of my wife at the time because I had the broken arm. I only showed it like that because I couldn't hold it straight. Always straighten the filament out when measuring. I have a new video coming out soon to update this one, and I will drive that home! haha
Thank you. Mine was sooooooo far off it is unreal. I had 99 as my base line and only 43.72 filament came out. After the math it was 339.40. I thought it was wrong until I measured 100 exactly on the nose. Thank you soo much. I have wasted at least a roll and half thinking tried to change all kinds of stuff in CURA. Ugraded and now prints are coming out like new again. SUB and Liked from me.
Finally I found a tutorial on how to calibrate those two values (esteps and flow rate), thanx a lot! Apart from the creatively written small math formula (I figured it out as you explained what you meant in the video) everything was very well explained. Thanks again!
Thanks so much for this video. At first I was like why would you want to do the free air method for e steps? But after you explained things at the end it makes perfect sense. Been having problems with over extrusion on my Ender 3 Pro and I'm sure this will fix it.
I’ve just noticed that on Cura 4.6.1 when I make these measurements and enter 0.4 wall thickness with 1 wall Cura prints the same size cube and doesn’t actually extrude the corrected flow rate. Example, flow set at 100% cube comes out at 4.7 thickness, flow set at 60% I get same 4.7 thickness.. so it seems right now that Cura is broken! Same with 2 walls 0.8 thickness.
Another question... your measurement shows the filament as CURVED in the vid at 7:27 which makes the new length > than the 100.64 shown so the real measurement seems like it should be LONGER than stated. No? Am I missing something? Like maybe the NEW e-steps number should have been 106 or lower instead of 107? What am I missing? You’re the expert(s)... other than that, REALLY CLEAR explanation... but I’m Math Boy... 🤓😎🤪🤣👅
When I did my calculations I had my wife hold it straight off camera. I should have shown that. But When I filmed I couldn't show it straight because of the broken arm. The calculations should be correct and I have updated them in the description too.
Thank you so much for this video. I saw a lot of people talking about Esteps and flow but I couldn't find a good explanation. This however is a very good video!
Great video..For a guy thats new to this 3d prints, only had my first 3d printer for 1 week now and thought my prints was good, but this estep and flow calibration made my prints way better!!
It may be obvious to experienced printers, but I'm a beginner and I don't know what these tweaks improve. I'm having some problems and I'm sure your tweaks won't make them any worse, but I don't know if they'll help with the problems I'm having. What problems are taken care of by doing the two adjustments? Thank you.
Thank you so much for this you explained it extremely well without going off at a tangent like quite a few others which just confused the issue. This is the second vide of yours that has helped so I have subscribed. Keep up the good work and a big thank you from London UK
Thanks for the great videos! When slicing Lukes .8 cube test which profile should I use? Super .12, Dynamic .16 Standard .2 Then set the Shell wall thickness to.8 which gives 2 walls. (Ender 5 plus with .4 mm nozzle) Only adjusting the temps for PLA + (210 nozzle 65 bed)
I would have to go look but I think he put that on his thingiverse page. It should say what settings to use when printing it. I'm watching a movie currently so I can't do it, but let me know if you can't find it.
In the Video the measured lengths have a bit of a curve to them, to me that means the measurement is low, is this something I should be concerned with?
When I filmed the video I had a broken arm. I had my wife help with the measurements that I used to dial in. But for filming, I couldn't straighten them out myself. Always make sure it's straight so you get the most accurate measurement!
I just went and printed a temperature tower and realized I didn't see much difference the whole way up and I watched the temps on my LCD for each change. So I'm sticking with the stock Cura setting of 200. I'm just printing my last single walled cube for flow rates and slapping a sticker on all 4 spools that I have. I think the flow rate matters way more than temperature does just from experimenting.
Aside from the confusing line over the values...measuring a curved line is not accurate. You can actually gain at least 3-5mm by that way of measuring a curve
Yes @av.......you bring up an excellent point that I noticed right off. The shortest distance between two points (in this case the most accurate distance or measurement) is a straight line. The video example Jim shows is NOT using a straight line and the filament sample is actually a radius! I worked in Production Automation with CNC’s (3, 4, and 5 axis) making parts for IBM with tolerances of .005mm (.0002 in) using MAFord solid carbide tooling (spade drill, spiral fluted drill @.0057 dia, and end mills @ .093dia) on Delrin 100 and Vespel 500 composite and actually holding half that tolerance. Would never get anywhere with that style of measurement. These videos are informative but when someone shows such a blatant, inaccurate technique I have to say something. Tape on the ends to hold the true length sounds better than what was shown. Perfectionist? Maybe! Professional? Always! CONSISTENCY is the name of the game with CNC production and these printers are basically 3-axis (and the ‘feeder’ for the extruder could be considered a 4th axis) CNC’s using the same Gcode used in Nc’s and CNC’s since the 1950’s. I also have considerable experience programming in Industrial code, Gcode, Mcode, etc. and in about 9 different versions as these languages are often proprietary to a particular machine brand.
@@twobrotherskayaking4736 I agree with you. Pubishing an educational content has some responsibility (which is advertised as and we pay in terms of "views" so it is not free either). Not to bring shade but awareness. As an engineer, my concern was the line below the numbers even if that wasnt a fraction or division or 1/unit. Anyways hopefully people get that wasn't the case.
is 93 the default for all Creality products? I know you say that in the video but I have also read conflicting numbers of 93-95 when it comes to the Ender-5 (which is the model I have) Also, The latest version of CURA doesn't allow you to copy and paste from an outside source (Luke's guide). So that being the case does the wording, spacing, grammar have to be exact? Thanks for making this video
Good question. I'm not sure about the other machines. If you use my other video it tells you how to get it off the Printer using Octoprint or Pronterface! Also, yes it needs to be exact for the code part, but the descriptions don't matter.
quick question here, at 7:18 you state that after you have calibrated your esteps you did the extruding test again and it was spot on. How did you tell the printer about this new esteps? I understand that when I edit the gcode in cura all files slices with this code will have the new step in place, but how will the printer now when it's only extruding filament?
If you have a newer Ender 3, you can do it right in the control panel of the printer. I have a video to show you how. Also, you could do it using Octoprint or Pronterface, and I have a video to show that as well. In this case we used the starting gcode to do it, but that is an old way and the other ways are easier now.
Quick question. My nozzle is 0.8 and it says my wall thickness is 2.4 but the top and bottom walls are 1.55 . when i made my measurements the average was 1.57 But if i use 2.4 as the wall thickness then my flow rate is a crazy 156 and my prints are a glob in seconds. I assume that I should be using the top/bottom thickness of 1.55, because then the flow rate is 98 and the prints look fine. thanks again for the great video!
Great info! Both my father in law and late father are cheese head (no offense meant by that trust me!)packer backers! one Madison one Neena! You put this in a way even i could get it! I already how to do it the other way but not this way.
Oh wow, when I get my next video out I need to link to this for Estep calculations (I'm doing a beginner lingo 3D printer one). I've watched 3 other videos and read about 4 other websites that had descriptions, and none of them did it as clearly as you did. I appreciate that you showed the equation twice....otherwise you're right, the first time would've been cofusin (I thought heck 100 sounds obvious...it's 100 mm, why wouldnt you set it to 100?). Great video, I'll check out your other work and get subscribed. I know how tough making and editing can be, so to watch you do it with a bum arm was even more impressive :D
Where do you input the esteps in Prusa? Where did you get the estep command you copied and pasted? what would be the value in Prusa for your flow rate of 105?
If your printer is new enough, I would do it on the control panel of the printer. Or, connect to the computer and do it that way. I have videos on both ways. That's much easier then modifying the gcode.
When you said you don't have to change it unless you change the extruder or the gear. If you change the gear but with the same amount of teeth are you still good to go or does that change anything. I ordered new gears and noticed they have 26 teeth and I think my ender pro came with a 41 tooth gear. I didn't count the original gear but that's what is on order.
Great video, very helpful thank you! I’m new to 3D printing and your videos have helped me from assembly to successful prints! Question what is the blue thing around your fan?
I don’t know what I’m doing wrong. I go into my cura settings, set the wall thickness to 1 line .4 thickness and slice. The problem is it’s still prints 3 line wall thickness at about .9 when I measure it. How can I print a single line test cube?
Appreciated this video very much. I used PLA filament to calibrate the eStep and flow very successfully. Question: Just for fun I tried it with TPU and got a measurement of 18mm shorter than PLA. Should that value be that different, and if so, should I be calibrating eSteps based on the material I'm using each time?
So....$10 question When you measured the extruded length...did you take into account for the curve (Understanding that you're doing this one-handed - but that was enough curve to add a mm or two to the measurements... (Just wondering if that was "for display" and you did it properly off-camera) A variant of the free-air version is to measure the filament going INTO the extruder. (I have to do this as I have a direct-drive extruder) I mark off 120mm, extrude 100, measure the difference between the mark and what came out, and calculate extruded length from that. (so if I have 25mm left to the mark, I only extruded 95mm)
Hi! that is one of the biggest comments I get on this video lol I did measure it straight with the help of my wife at the time. for video sake I could not straighten it and I should have taped it to the table. But yes you always measure a straight and in my experience it's easier to do it that way. Then just run a test cube can you get your flu rate with the filament you're using and you're done. Thanks for watching!
This was highly informative and easy as pie to follow along with. I like the idea of having esteps one and done, then just tweak software vs hardware to attempt dial ins.
Mine was printing well at 93 and 100 flow but the testing said I should go to 94 steps and 73 flow. Took it back to stock and I'll leave it until I have issues.
73 flow? Wow that sounds impossible :) To have 73 means basically your geometric is horrible and incompatible with "printing well" if you change it to that value :) I guess something with the math went wrong ;)
What did I miss. I dig all your vids. How did you calculate 100mm to pass through the extruder only? I looked back but Im confused. I did order the new one on your link just now.
So how do you verify the E-steps for the Z-Axis stepper motor (or either the X and Y for that matter)? Do you still set like 100 mm and have the Z-axis raise be 100 and do that same calculation? How do I know the presets are correct? Currently, our extruder seems to drag across the infill after a certain height.
Good video. These comments are full of praise but I must have something wrong. After changing esteps and flow, my calibration cubes have weird horizontal lines.
Is this a better method then feeding it through the hot end.? or are they both just as accurate.? I have tried to do the measure 120 and send it through the hot end but it feels to fiddley for me. :/ . This way looks easier :)
It's person preference, but this is the way Luke teaches and the way I do it. If you do it then way, you only need to do it 1 time and the print the cube for each of your filaments. Unless you change something at the extruder. If you di it through the hotend you have to do that for each fillament.
@@TheEdgeofTech thank you for the response nah I only wanna do it once. i have just changed to the red aluminium extruder, hence the need to redo e steps. so I am definitely doing this way. :) gee whizz you learn something new everyday 3d printing :) . I love it :) Thanks a zillion
According to Luke, if you do the open air method you would not need to do it for every filament. Just calibrate your flow and your good to go for each filament. Thanks for watching!
@@TheEdgeofTech Cura allows you to customize flow for each filament profile. Should flow be done for each filament color/brand or only needed once per printer? Then Can I just change the flow by creating a custom profile or do I have to edit the gcode? I feel like there are so many places to change flow I am slightly confused as to where to save the change and if I just do it once or for each filament brand/color...
Hi, thanks for this. I was following it right up to the point where you said “we just need to copy this line of code....” Where did you find that code? Up until that point you had been dealing with hardware and then you leapt in to software! I am running a standard Ender 3 with just a few add-ons, including the hot end fix.
@@Reno0513it is a PDF that can be downloaded here c3d.media/3d-printer-help-guide-creality-others/?fbclid=IwAR0o-4zvp_vSePyZQA4IgVUaenU-9b7-Jcez2p6egjE_CLgTtqt2PLtfw94 I also recommend that u watch this video ruclips.net/video/-dT-vbvFQCs/видео.html
around 3:20 you go into the prepare menu to let the extruder extrude 100mm filament. However, I don't have these menus. It seems you have an updated firmware or a more advanced menu setting. Any idea what it is and how I could change my Ender 3 so my menu is like that?
Erwin Mulder - he had upgraded his firmware to the TH3D EZABL (Easy Auto Bed Level) version. There are several videos out there on how to do this. I like Teaching Tech's video series for the Ender 3 - very informative.
At shallow angles of bend, it doesn't make any significant difference. If you know what cosine is, the relationship between the length of the hypotenuse and the side adjacent, the value with a 5 degree bow angle is .9962 so that means that if the actual length of the filament were 100mm long but had a 5 degree bow in it, then you'd measure 99.62mm. Less than half a mm of filament error, but you can always assume your extruder is pushing a little extra, but never less than the amount you measured.
![Megan Thee Stallion - Neva Play (feat. RM) [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/TpYTyAaTRts/mqdefault.jpg)
Pro tip for the professionals out there that like to have everything to be perfect. Turn the piece of filament so that way the bow is turning upwards, or I suppose downwards is fine. Then flatten it out and tape the two ends to the table before measuring. That will make your Measurement way more accurate
You can also drop the filament in boiling water for a minute then take it out and straighten it while it’s flexible
Yes @SDa.......you bring up an excellent point that I noticed right off.
The shortest distance between two points (in this case the most accurate distance or measurement) is a straight line. The video example Jim shows is NOT using a straight line and the filament sample is actually a radius! I worked in Production Automation with CNC’s (3, 4, and 5 axis) making parts for IBM with tolerances of .005mm (.0002 in) using MAFord solid carbide tooling (spade drill, spiral fluted drill @.0057 dia, and end mills @ .093dia) on Delrin 100 and Vespel 500 composite and actually holding half that tolerance. Would never get anywhere with that style of measurement. These videos are informative but when someone shows such a blatant, inaccurate technique I have to say something.
Tape on the ends to hold the true length sounds better than what was shown.
Perfectionist? Maybe! Professional? Always! CONSISTENCY is the name of the game with CNC production and these printers are basically 3-axis (and the ‘feeder’ for the extruder could be considered a 4th axis) CNC’s using the same Gcode used in Nc’s and CNC’s since the 1950’s. I also have considerable experience programming in Industrial code, Gcode, Mcode, etc. and in about 9 different versions as these languages are often proprietary to a particular machine brand.
This part was not shown.
Click Control > Motion, then scroll down to “E-steps/mm” and change it to your new E-step value.
And by doing that we don’t have to change anything from cura, right?
@@fitopineda5192 Correct.
If we change the value in “E-steps/mm” ...Do you still have to change it in Prusa?
Thank you for this.. I’ve got 13 printers.. Didn’t want to adjust the Cura settings when only one of my machines is acting up.
Marco. You saved me some frustration. Was about to throw my phone because this was not mentioned in the vid. Thank you. I would say though, after you make adjustments and run a proper 100mm piece, remember to store your settings. I forgot to twice, then remembered seeing that option under control/store settings. Worked great. Thanks again.
Jim, just a tip for this one if you ever re-do this video in the future. Your formulas the way you wrote them up could confuse some. I figured out what you did but here is what might be better. Step 1: 100/Measured Length= n Have the Measure length noted off to the side in a list of your variables. Step 2: Step 1 * Current Estep value. Again have the value for the Current Estep noted in a list on the side instead of in your formula.
What one might interpret what you wrote as the following. step 1: 100/(Measured length/87) Step 2: Step 1 X(Current Estep/93).
I hope you find this feedback helpful in the future.
Thank you for the feedback!! I appreciate it!
@@TheEdgeofTech No Problem Jim.
@@TheEdgeofTech No problem Jim. I will send you a Google sheets example of what I'm talking about via my business account puppets3Dcreations at Gmail dot com.
Yea so 100 / ( 93/93) is 100...
Thank you!!!! Also putting those distance names over the distance looks like another division equation. Hella confusing
I was trying to figure out that whole division line in the second figure til i saw your comment
@@Juz10xD Me too. I thought his formula was different since i was able to calibrate without using that formula. I also thought that's what he meant by hia formula being confusing is about that but turns out it was about the 93 e steps
@@SimplyV3rna I'm not sure, I followed his formula after figuring out that division misinterpretation and had no issues
@@Juz10xD all good. I was just thinking if my formula was different when i was watching his. And i realised he wrote the formula against all math conventions.
The formula is 100 / mesaureLength * currentEStep = newEStep
Some parts were a little confusing at first until I pulled out my common sense and then this video was extremely helpful! My printer hasn't been acting right for months even after a few other e-step calibration videos. Finally, everything is working PERFECTLY! Thank you!
This has been a much better guide on how to calculate e-steps. I spent a little bit trying to re-find this video because all of the others just breezed over it. Thanks for being thorough!
To anyone else that might be confused about the flow rate and wall width:
The walls of the cube are 2*(nozzle size), so if you have a 0.4mm nozzle you should get a 0.8mm wall after printing!
I have the same problem, set cura to 1 line wall, .4 thickness, and it prints the 3 wall line still
@@ontariodigger162 there is no need to change anything in Cura, it will always try to print it 0.8mm wide since the 3D model says so (if you use a 0.4mm nozzle and the 0.4mm stl file). Just print it and measure it
no lol. A .4 nozzle should be a .4 wall
@@pubexploit6782 yes, but it prints two walls = .8 mm :)
@@SweCookie I'm saying for just 1 wall:)
You're guide completes me. I got my e steps figured out (adjusted to 96 and its dead on 100mm +- 0.2) and my flow rate actually went down to 95%.
Thanks for the guide.
thank you for the great video,
my E-steps was 93 now is 97.8,
flow rate 100% reduced it to 84.7%,
perfect results, well done.....
Same here, E-step went to 98 and flow to 87%, pretty close at least. Ender 3 printing Generic ABS.
Glad you mentioned that. I was also confused as my esteps went only a little bit up (95.7 on Direct Drive). I am also clocking in a 83-84%.
Is it any surprise you INCREASED your Esteps and now you have to DECREASE your flow? It's not because you got your Estep number correct. All you did was shift the calculations for the end result around.
Mine went to 68%!? How's this possible? Testing now.
When printing now there is spaces between the line, I increased the flow rate to 90. Why this happen?
oh my gosh, this just made this SO much easier for me. I really appreciate it
Awesome! Thanks for watching!
Finally!!! This video in combination with other videos helped me find peace after sleepless nights!!!
Dude.....can't thank you enough. I was virtually done with these Enders. Works like a charm now. The way you explain and walk thorough the steps. You're nothing short of awesome
Had zits / blobs in my exstrution. Tried many thing but since my spool was running low finally got time to go trough these steps.
My prints are awesome to perfect in my consideration. Thx man! This was a great help and for now own. flowcube, small test and only need to adjust the flowrate.
Thanks for the great explanation! It helped.
Awesome! I am glad to hear it helped, and thanks for watching!!!
Where did he copy that line of gcode from? That's the only part I didn't understand.
Took me a minute to find. He copied it from the guide he links to under the description. Bettter late than never but hopefully you figured it out already
@@dabbingdaily8929 At least it’s helpfull for other viewers! ;)
My Original E Step was 98.94, My New EStep is 135.534, Approx 136. I type M92 E136 in Octotprint Terminal to modify the current EStep value. Then M500 to write new ESstep value to EEPROM. Then M503 to read saved value. Then I extruded another 100mm and it was spot on,Thank you!
I changed my extruder to a dual gear one, and YOU amazing man helped me tune perfectly! Everything was well explained, sooo....THANK YOUUUU!! I love your channel, and I hope your arm healed very nicely!!
Thanks!! I'm glad it helped!
Have you been having to calibrate flow per material too? I did the same mod with my ender 3 and now I have to.
@@TheAkashicTraveller That's good practice, so the correct answer is yes you should. But many people just go with the flow and keep it the same.
@@TheEdgeofTech It's slightly fruystrating that with cura you have to use a plugin to get flow into the per meterial settings despite people asking for it for years at this point.
Spot-on explaination :)
I did some flowrate calibration for the filament spools that are most commonly used when I'm printing things, mostly PLA and PETG.
Once filament have been dried, across brands, well, there are subtle differences. From brand to brand, PLA yielded values between 0.95 and 0.98... PETG being either 0.99 or 1 (using PrusaSlicer).
Subtle, yet not to be overlooked. Minor changes can produce a world of difference.
Great tip! It's always good to check the flow rate with all your filaments to be spot on!
Yes :) Still have to do it for TPU, nylon, and ABS. When the printer will be repaired and enclosed...
Outstanding tutorial! very clear and easy to follow. Thanks
Bro. I love your video. My printer is running awesome now. I had NIGHTMARE stringing. I'm new to 3d. 5 days new. Got my Capricorn rolling from last video. Doing my Esteps now. It's rocking and rolling! Thanks!
Great news!! I'm glad You're rolling now! Thanks for watching!!
My esteps were at 93, that seems to be the default for Ender 3. I extruded 97mm. I put in my new esteps which was 95.8 and extruded again. I got 100mm exactly, right on the dot. You don't want to go over 100. That results in over extrusion.
Luke changed the original file. The first file was one wall, 0.4.
Now it is two wall, 0.8.
That makes this video a little bit misleading and diffucult to understand if you are new to 3d printing and if mathematics arent your strong side.
Thanks for the videos you are making ! It really helps a noob like med =)
This could be easily changed with Wall line count set to 1 :)
Wish the gcode alteration was in the notes so i can copy and paste but thanks alot this helped me a fton
Hey, I will double check the description, but the help guide should be linked there. If possible I would do this right on the printer or by hooking the printer up to the computer if possible. I have videos on both ways and that's a way better solution.
Great video. Only issue I seen is that the filament should be measured when strait. In video it shows being measured when at arc which will result in a shorter then actual measurement
You have a good point. Luckily an arch that wide will likely not impact the measurement enough to be a huge problem. The length difference with that arch and a straight piece is likely somewhere under 0.01 range.
Great video, but I have one comment. When I see you write the Measured Length then a line with the number underneath, I read that as the measured length divided by #. Maybe just the math nerd in me. You did a great job of talking through it when I went back and actually listened to what you said instead of just reading what you wrote.
Thanks for watching and for the feedback! I appreciate it!
@@TheEdgeofTech love the video! I agree with this comment and would add that you could simply edit out the part where your E steps and mm length happened to be the same number :)
Love this guy, he is so cool. Could deffo go for a beer with him in the pub.
Thanks man. For the first time someone explained these 2 important steps so that even a knob like me can understand it 😂👍🏼
Awesome! Thanks for watching!
thanks bud after banging my head against the wall I couldn't figure out why my ender 3 was printing weak under extruded Prints and then I came across your video and figured out that my printer had the wrong e-steps setting in and it was only extruding about half of what it should have been extruding after I put the new values in everything was good
Wow, incredibly knowledgeable, great presenter, and a Packers fan?!?!?!? Go Pack Go!
@TEoT measurement off but I still gave this a thumbs-up!
The shortest distance between two points (in this case the most accurate distance or measurement) is a straight line. The video example shown is NOT using a straight line and the filament sample is actually a radius! I worked in Production Automation with CNC’s (3, 4, and 5 axis) making parts for IBM with tolerances of .005mm (.0002 in) using MAFord solid carbide tooling (spade drill, spiral fluted drill @.0057 dia, and end mills @ .093dia) on Delrin 100 and Vespel 500 composite and actually holding half that tolerance. Would never get anywhere with that style of measurement. These videos are informative but when someone shows such a blatant, inaccurate technique I have to say something.
Tape on the ends to hold the true length sounds better than what was shown.
Perfectionist? Maybe! Professional? Always! CONSISTENCY is the name of the game with CNC production and these printers are basically 3-axis (and the ‘feeder’ for the extruder could be considered a 4th axis) CNC’s using the same Gcode used in Nc’s and CNC’s since the 1950’s. I also have considerable experience programming in Industrial code, Gcode, Mcode, etc. and in about 9 different versions as these languages are often proprietary to a particular machine brand.
Good video.
The math formulas are expressed incorrectly:
100 / (Current measured length) * 93 = (New e-Step)
Also you don't actually need to snip off the filament. Just trim the ends and measure with the caliper's upper jaws (used for inside measurements) against the extruder to the tip of the filament.
Not sure if I am repeating others, but the math is simpler: the printer did N steps (NS) and advanced L (in mm) so: NS*93=L, you want NS*Estep=100, so Estep = 100/L*93
Oh that free air method is naughty! Better than trying to piss around with a sharpie pen trying to mark a curly piece of filament with my shitty cheap amazon callipers
*Had to add, fantastic video. Great clarity, Thankyou sir!! Your to the point clear instructions have saved me from many hours of frustration trying to trial and error this
Thankyou
I definitely like the videos I would like to see some of these videos updated new firmware technology and changes 🤘
Used this on mine today. Great tutorial when combined with your other video on how the new E3 can set E-steps from the screen.
Hey thanks for the idea of taking the tube off and just cutting it. Much easier than marking the filament on the other side of the extruder.
bought my printer like a week and a half ago. just bought calipers. My piece of fillament was only 42.7 mm instead of 100... that explains a lot
Gotta say man your channel has been my goto for my 3D printing solutions. Thanks for the videos
awesome video has already helped a ton with most of my filaments. I have a new filament (tough PLA) im finding the various between the side vary high (did the .8mm cube) these were my measurements: 0.77, 0.87, 0.77, 0.84, 0.82, 0.82, 0.79, 0.88.
in all my other filaments my variation wasn't more then .05m but this canadian makers tough pla is .10mm off.
If anyone knows why that would be awesome!
Bit late to reply, most likely reason is because of the extra additives in the filament causing small/minor blockages and then surges in the nozzle. I've been tinkering with CF-PLA and CF-PETG and it's a turd to print cos the fibres are randomly aligned in the filament, so collide with each other when it's melted and compressed in the nozzle....even with a 0.6mm nozzle Im still getting under and over extrusion issues
Best solution it seems is lower the nozzle pressure, so everything can compress and align before causing a flow restriction/surge
when you measure the filament make sure it is not bent like you show in the video because if you straighten the filament you might be surprised that you are under measuring the true extruded length.
Thanks! As I have commented many times, I measured it straight with the help of my wife at the time because I had the broken arm. I only showed it like that because I couldn't hold it straight. Always straighten the filament out when measuring. I have a new video coming out soon to update this one, and I will drive that home! haha
Thankyou Jim....its easy when you explain it in layman's terms....👍
Thank you. Mine was sooooooo far off it is unreal. I had 99 as my base line and only 43.72 filament came out. After the math it was 339.40. I thought it was wrong until I measured 100 exactly on the nose. Thank you soo much. I have wasted at least a roll and half thinking tried to change all kinds of stuff in CURA. Ugraded and now prints are coming out like new again. SUB and Liked from me.
Awesome!!! Great to hear that this helped and your printing good again!!
Finally I found a tutorial on how to calibrate those two values (esteps and flow rate), thanx a lot! Apart from the creatively written small math formula (I figured it out as you explained what you meant in the video) everything was very well explained. Thanks again!
Thanks for mentioning the 'algebra that isn't algebra' . So in this case the divide line should read (or in our example).
So the line of code is:
M92 E(calculation of E-step)
Got it...
I didn't really understand anything about the second/third part until the end of the video, then it all clicked haha. Thanks a lot for this
Thanks so much for this video. At first I was like why would you want to do the free air method for e steps? But after you explained things at the end it makes perfect sense. Been having problems with over extrusion on my Ender 3 Pro and I'm sure this will fix it.
Awesome! I hope it worked!
I’ve just noticed that on Cura 4.6.1 when I make these measurements and enter 0.4 wall thickness with 1 wall Cura prints the same size cube and doesn’t actually extrude the corrected flow rate. Example, flow set at 100% cube comes out at 4.7 thickness, flow set at 60% I get same 4.7 thickness.. so it seems right now that Cura is broken! Same with 2 walls 0.8 thickness.
Another question... your measurement shows the filament as CURVED in the vid at 7:27 which makes the new length > than the 100.64 shown so the real measurement seems like it should be LONGER than stated. No? Am I missing something? Like maybe the NEW e-steps number should have been 106 or lower instead of 107? What am I missing? You’re the expert(s)... other than that, REALLY CLEAR explanation... but I’m Math Boy... 🤓😎🤪🤣👅
When I did my calculations I had my wife hold it straight off camera. I should have shown that. But When I filmed I couldn't show it straight because of the broken arm. The calculations should be correct and I have updated them in the description too.
OMG this saved my sanity, I was going nuts trying to figure out what was wrong. A million thanks.
Thank you so much for this video. I saw a lot of people talking about Esteps and flow but I couldn't find a good explanation. This however is a very good video!
Glad it was helpful!
Great video..For a guy thats new to this 3d prints, only had my first 3d printer for 1 week now and thought my prints was good, but this estep and flow calibration made my prints way better!!
thank you!! way better then other online
It may be obvious to experienced printers, but I'm a beginner and I don't know what these tweaks improve. I'm having some problems and I'm sure your tweaks won't make them any worse, but I don't know if they'll help with the problems I'm having. What problems are taken care of by doing the two adjustments? Thank you.
Thanks for the info!!! was super helpful
Thank you so much for this you explained it extremely well without going off at a tangent like quite a few others which just confused the issue. This is the second vide of yours that has helped so I have subscribed. Keep up the good work and a big thank you from London UK
Thanks for the great videos! When slicing Lukes .8 cube test which profile should I use? Super .12, Dynamic .16 Standard .2 Then set the Shell wall thickness to.8 which gives 2 walls. (Ender 5 plus with .4 mm nozzle) Only adjusting the temps for PLA + (210 nozzle 65 bed)
I would have to go look but I think he put that on his thingiverse page. It should say what settings to use when printing it. I'm watching a movie currently so I can't do it, but let me know if you can't find it.
In the Video the measured lengths have a bit of a curve to them, to me that means the measurement is low, is this something I should be concerned with?
I'm wondering the same thing...
When I filmed the video I had a broken arm. I had my wife help with the measurements that I used to dial in. But for filming, I couldn't straighten them out myself. Always make sure it's straight so you get the most accurate measurement!
Hahah oh.. that makes sense 😂
Hope your arm is doing better
Gotta get the arm straight before he can straighten the filament :p
Hey, professional guy, how about you straighten your filament out when measuring it? Your numbers are off if you measure it curved.
he probably did it, just not shown because he cant use both hands... he could use tape to keep it straigh but I think that is not really necessary
The flow test cubes that start with a dot . are treated as hidden files in Linux. Rename them and use 0.2, 0.4, 0.6, etc.
I just went and printed a temperature tower and realized I didn't see much difference the whole way up and I watched the temps on my LCD for each change. So I'm sticking with the stock Cura setting of 200. I'm just printing my last single walled cube for flow rates and slapping a sticker on all 4 spools that I have. I think the flow rate matters way more than temperature does just from experimenting.
Awesome.. I've watched several videos about this subject and your video is by far the best. Thanks!
Thanks for watching!!
Open air is great it takes the hot end out of the calibration, much better method.
Aside from the confusing line over the values...measuring a curved line is not accurate. You can actually gain at least 3-5mm by that way of measuring a curve
Yes @av.......you bring up an excellent point that I noticed right off.
The shortest distance between two points (in this case the most accurate distance or measurement) is a straight line. The video example Jim shows is NOT using a straight line and the filament sample is actually a radius! I worked in Production Automation with CNC’s (3, 4, and 5 axis) making parts for IBM with tolerances of .005mm (.0002 in) using MAFord solid carbide tooling (spade drill, spiral fluted drill @.0057 dia, and end mills @ .093dia) on Delrin 100 and Vespel 500 composite and actually holding half that tolerance. Would never get anywhere with that style of measurement. These videos are informative but when someone shows such a blatant, inaccurate technique I have to say something.
Tape on the ends to hold the true length sounds better than what was shown.
Perfectionist? Maybe! Professional? Always! CONSISTENCY is the name of the game with CNC production and these printers are basically 3-axis (and the ‘feeder’ for the extruder could be considered a 4th axis) CNC’s using the same Gcode used in Nc’s and CNC’s since the 1950’s. I also have considerable experience programming in Industrial code, Gcode, Mcode, etc. and in about 9 different versions as these languages are often proprietary to a particular machine brand.
@@twobrotherskayaking4736 I agree with you. Pubishing an educational content has some responsibility (which is advertised as and we pay in terms of "views" so it is not free either). Not to bring shade but awareness. As an engineer, my concern was the line below the numbers even if that wasnt a fraction or division or 1/unit. Anyways hopefully people get that wasn't the case.
is 93 the default for all Creality products? I know you say that in the video but I have also read conflicting numbers of 93-95 when it comes to the Ender-5 (which is the model I have) Also, The latest version of CURA doesn't allow you to copy and paste from an outside source (Luke's guide). So that being the case does the wording, spacing, grammar have to be exact? Thanks for making this video
Good question. I'm not sure about the other machines. If you use my other video it tells you how to get it off the Printer using Octoprint or Pronterface! Also, yes it needs to be exact for the code part, but the descriptions don't matter.
quick question here,
at 7:18 you state that after you have calibrated your esteps you did the extruding test again and it was spot on. How did you tell the printer about this new esteps?
I understand that when I edit the gcode in cura all files slices with this code will have the new step in place, but how will the printer now when it's only extruding filament?
If you have a newer Ender 3, you can do it right in the control panel of the printer. I have a video to show you how. Also, you could do it using Octoprint or Pronterface, and I have a video to show that as well. In this case we used the starting gcode to do it, but that is an old way and the other ways are easier now.
i used this vid numerous of times . great walkthrough
Awesome video! Very informative and educational and easy to follow, especially for noobs like me. Thank you!
Thanks you! I'm glad it helped! Thanks for watching!!
Quick question. My nozzle is 0.8 and it says my wall thickness is 2.4 but the top and bottom walls are 1.55 . when i made my measurements the average was 1.57 But if i use 2.4 as the wall thickness then my flow rate is a crazy 156 and my prints are a glob in seconds. I assume that I should be using the top/bottom thickness of 1.55, because then the flow rate is 98 and the prints look fine. thanks again for the great video!
Huge thanks from Ukraine, really helpful video!!!!
Glad it helped!
Great info! Both my father in law and late father are cheese head (no offense meant by that trust me!)packer backers! one Madison one Neena! You put this in a way even i could get it! I already how to do it the other way but not this way.
Whare can i find that G codes on 8:00? 😁 i hope this video will help me fix my problem!
start and end g codes but you probably solved it by now.
This is the best method I've seen of measuring esteps. Nice and easy!
The G code your copying, where do I get to copy that code from, do you have the printer connected to the computer
lukes help guide linked in the comments
@@firewall8985 That link doesn't work
Oh wow, when I get my next video out I need to link to this for Estep calculations (I'm doing a beginner lingo 3D printer one). I've watched 3 other videos and read about 4 other websites that had descriptions, and none of them did it as clearly as you did. I appreciate that you showed the equation twice....otherwise you're right, the first time would've been cofusin (I thought heck 100 sounds obvious...it's 100 mm, why wouldnt you set it to 100?). Great video, I'll check out your other work and get subscribed. I know how tough making and editing can be, so to watch you do it with a bum arm was even more impressive :D
Great tutorial and very easy to follow. The only thing I struggled getting my head around was you said extrude 300mm instead of 100mm 3 times
Where do you input the esteps in Prusa? Where did you get the estep command you copied and pasted? what would be the value in Prusa for your flow rate of 105?
If your printer is new enough, I would do it on the control panel of the printer. Or, connect to the computer and do it that way. I have videos on both ways. That's much easier then modifying the gcode.
When you said you don't have to change it unless you change the extruder or the gear. If you change the gear but with the same amount of teeth are you still good to go or does that change anything. I ordered new gears and noticed they have 26 teeth and I think my ender pro came with a 41 tooth gear. I didn't count the original gear but that's what is on order.
I would check it to be safe!
Thank you so much for making this video. Seriously, you are the man.
Thanks! I'm glad it helps! Thanks for watching!
Great video, very helpful thank you! I’m new to 3D printing and your videos have helped me from assembly to successful prints! Question what is the blue thing around your fan?
I don’t know what I’m doing wrong.
I go into my cura settings, set the wall thickness to 1 line .4 thickness and slice. The problem is it’s still prints 3 line wall thickness at about .9 when I measure it.
How can I print a single line test cube?
I needed this thank you kindly
Omg, u in or from WI? Thanks for help, Middleton WI here!!
Awesome! I'm in Wisconsin!
where are you getting this g code from????? You dont say anything that I heard in your video about WHERE?????
The Gcode comes from Luke's Guide in the section this. Sorry about that. I thought I had it in there.
@@TheEdgeofTech great video man. hope the arms all good!
Appreciated this video very much. I used PLA filament to calibrate the eStep and flow very successfully. Question: Just for fun I tried it with TPU and got a measurement of 18mm shorter than PLA. Should that value be that different, and if so, should I be calibrating eSteps based on the material I'm using each time?
That's a great question. I have always only done it once. The dialed in the flow rate. But I may have to look into flexibles and see if it changes.
So....$10 question When you measured the extruded length...did you take into account for the curve (Understanding that you're doing this one-handed - but that was enough curve to add a mm or two to the measurements... (Just wondering if that was "for display" and you did it properly off-camera)
A variant of the free-air version is to measure the filament going INTO the extruder. (I have to do this as I have a direct-drive extruder) I mark off 120mm, extrude 100, measure the difference between the mark and what came out, and calculate extruded length from that. (so if I have 25mm left to the mark, I only extruded 95mm)
Hi! that is one of the biggest comments I get on this video lol I did measure it straight with the help of my wife at the time. for video sake I could not straighten it and I should have taped it to the table. But yes you always measure a straight and in my experience it's easier to do it that way. Then just run a test cube can you get your flu rate with the filament you're using and you're done. Thanks for watching!
The link for Lukes test cubes is only downloading the 1.0 nozzle stl.
Hmm. Let me look. www.thingiverse.com/thing:3220015 should be the link.
Awesome COMPLETE tutorial , thank you .
This was highly informative and easy as pie to follow along with. I like the idea of having esteps one and done, then just tweak software vs hardware to attempt dial ins.
Mine was printing well at 93 and 100 flow but the testing said I should go to 94 steps and 73 flow. Took it back to stock and I'll leave it until I have issues.
73 flow? Wow that sounds impossible :) To have 73 means basically your geometric is horrible and incompatible with "printing well" if you change it to that value :) I guess something with the math went wrong ;)
Like and Subscribed, Jim. Looking forward to upgrading and improving my Ender 3
What did I miss. I dig all your vids. How did you calculate 100mm to pass through the extruder only? I looked back but Im confused. I did order the new one on your link just now.
So how do you verify the E-steps for the Z-Axis stepper motor (or either the X and Y for that matter)? Do you still set like 100 mm and have the Z-axis raise be 100 and do that same calculation? How do I know the presets are correct? Currently, our extruder seems to drag across the infill after a certain height.
Good video. These comments are full of praise but I must have something wrong. After changing esteps and flow, my calibration cubes have weird horizontal lines.
Is this a better method then feeding it through the hot end.?
or are they both just as accurate.?
I have tried to do the measure 120 and send it through the hot end but it feels to fiddley for me. :/ .
This way looks easier :)
It's person preference, but this is the way Luke teaches and the way I do it. If you do it then way, you only need to do it 1 time and the print the cube for each of your filaments. Unless you change something at the extruder. If you di it through the hotend you have to do that for each fillament.
@@TheEdgeofTech thank you for the response nah I only wanna do it once. i have just changed to the red aluminium extruder, hence the need to redo e steps. so I am definitely doing this way. :) gee whizz you learn something new everyday 3d printing :) . I love it :) Thanks a zillion
7:30 the question is should you do it for each filament type, casue the gear byte and grab different between pla and petg for example
According to Luke, if you do the open air method you would not need to do it for every filament. Just calibrate your flow and your good to go for each filament. Thanks for watching!
@@TheEdgeofTech Cura allows you to customize flow for each filament profile. Should flow be done for each filament color/brand or only needed once per printer? Then Can I just change the flow by creating a custom profile or do I have to edit the gcode? I feel like there are so many places to change flow I am slightly confused as to where to save the change and if I just do it once or for each filament brand/color...
Hi, thanks for this. I was following it right up to the point where you said “we just need to copy this line of code....” Where did you find that code? Up until that point you had been dealing with hardware and then you leapt in to software! I am running a standard Ender 3 with just a few add-ons, including the hot end fix.
Hi! The GCode can be found in section 1.8 of Luke's Help guide! Let me know if you have any questions!
agreed.. that was very confusing to watch..
Is the help guide a PDF? A website? Where can we find it? Thanks!
@@Reno0513it is a PDF that can be downloaded here
c3d.media/3d-printer-help-guide-creality-others/?fbclid=IwAR0o-4zvp_vSePyZQA4IgVUaenU-9b7-Jcez2p6egjE_CLgTtqt2PLtfw94
I also recommend that u watch this video
ruclips.net/video/-dT-vbvFQCs/видео.html
thank you so much for the video it was great
That was excellent TYVM!!
around 3:20 you go into the prepare menu to let the extruder extrude 100mm filament. However, I don't have these menus. It seems you have an updated firmware or a more advanced menu setting. Any idea what it is and how I could change my Ender 3 so my menu is like that?
Erwin Mulder - he had upgraded his firmware to the TH3D EZABL (Easy Auto Bed Level) version. There are several videos out there on how to do this. I like Teaching Tech's video series for the Ender 3 - very informative.
@@oldguy2194 Thank you!!!
Very clear explanation thanks a lot!
Thanks for watching!
When you measured the 100mm the filament was bent slightly. Does that make a difference? Should I hold it down straight?
came to ask this exact question
At shallow angles of bend, it doesn't make any significant difference. If you know what cosine is, the relationship between the length of the hypotenuse and the side adjacent, the value with a 5 degree bow angle is .9962 so that means that if the actual length of the filament were 100mm long but had a 5 degree bow in it, then you'd measure 99.62mm. Less than half a mm of filament error, but you can always assume your extruder is pushing a little extra, but never less than the amount you measured.
@@HuFlungDung2 thanks or the explanation!