You can watch e-step videos all day on RUclips but this is the first time I've seen someone address the flow rate as part of the accuracy of the printer. Thank you for a great video.
I am a veteran science teacher and I must say: you are by very far the most explicit person who explained this process superbly! I am going to teach my 6th grade students your approach and recommend your site to them!! Thank you very much!
I have had my printer almost a month now and tried to follow a few different guides none got my printer working properly. I have watched a handful of your videos and now am printing things that don't just fall apart any more lmfao. thank you i am now actually enjoying printing things.
I'm probably too late, but I've just got to let you know that you're the best teacher on RUclips. I've spent the past 4 hours trying to calibrate my e steps using other tutorials and software, not one person said that you can do it right in the machine. Thank you so much!
I unfortunately don't have the 'motion' option on my old Ender3 (board 1.1.3), so I can't do it on the printer. And I don't know how else I could do it.
Read a lot about this issue and people made it more complicated than it is. Even after 4 years, your video is still golden. Thank you! *edit* the dragon reminds me of those the dragons in the "Inner Space" game, if you know it.
I’ve had a 3D printer for over two years now and recently purchased a third. I’ve always been satisfied with the okay-ish prints based for simply bed leveling and extruded filament. I’m going to watch all of your tutorials because I’m more than ready to take this hobby to the next level:)
I had an Ender3 and loved it so I bought a CR10 and have had nothing but problems with it. I have spent hours on reddit feeds, facebook groups and youtube videos with almost all of it stating that it was a clogged nozzle, warped extruder, cheap Bowden tube, or quick disconnects. I have replaced the Stepper Motor, the Extruder to a metal one, the Bowden tube to a better one, the quick disconnects, the Bowden tube to a better one, the nozzle a dozen times and was ready to throw it in the trash. After testing everything with your tutorial, I am not sure why but mine was almost 20mm short of what it should have been in the extrusion. Once adjusted I feel like I am back on my ender3 again. Thank you so much for spending the time to explain it to us non-engineering types.
When I first got my Ender 5, I watched this channel for assembly & it was first class. I recently upgraded to a dual gear extruder (I didn't think to re-calibrate & had terrible delaminating - 🤦🏻♂️) I followed this video & again first class instructions made it an easy fix. Thanks again for coming to my aid, your time and clear instructions are very much appreciated - Kelvin
My poor Ender-5 Pro went over so many modifications (all metal hot end, direct drive extruder, dual gear extruder, linear rails...) that this kind of adjustments are mandatory. The numbers I got are completely different and the end results are awesome! Thank you so much for the clear and straightforward explanation, especially regarding the underextrusion technique for miniatures!!! Cheers!
At last someone who isn’t about their “ ego “ and fantastic they are.Just tells it how it is simple and easy to understand. Great keep it up l am fan forever
New to 3d printing. Creality CR10-s5 Upgraded to Microswiss direct drive extruder. Thanks to this video, I discovered I was under-extruding by 32mm! Thank you very much!
Thank you so much. I had to bring it up to 145.31 from 93 with an aftermarket extruder. I was going crazy changing my settings in Cura. I still need to do flow calibrations but you Sir just gave me some fantastic knowledge. I did Not know under extruding was better for smaller parts but it makes sense and I'm going to start. Thank you again!
This video saved my awful previous prints, I realised when my printer expected to feed 100mm, it actually fed 45mm instead! I like this tutorial because it does not require to connect your printer thru usb with a cable or octopi, you only need basic tools.
Thank you so dearly I have searched the web. And you and 1 other guy are my go to teachers. Ctrlpew just lured me into buying one I didn't realize all the work involved! I've had it a week and between work and being a dad I have only leveled my bed so far! My calibration cubes look like poop but you lead the way good sir. Lead the way!
Huge thanks. Dialed in my printer after a custom firmware upgrade. Originally was over extruding by 47mm!. Prints are better than ever. This is best performed after tightening up the belts on all axis
I think I've referred like atleast a 100 people to this video. This is RUclips gold. Such a easy mechanical way of doing this. Everyone else wants you to mess with software.
Boy, I keep coming back to this same tutorial at least once a month when reworking my existing, or working with another, 3d printer. You're the best, thanks for what you do.
This is the best channel for info regarding 3d printing and ender printers. Whether you are printing models, PPE or custom parts for cinema cameras these are the BEST videos to watch.
Oh, I did NOT know about that minus 4% for small miniatures! But after your explanation it sounds super reasonable! I'll write that up and try it next time for sure! :) Also just had to do this again since I upgraded to a Micro Swiss all metal titanium hot end, so I needed to first perform a PID Tuning for 215°C (most used temp). Then re-calibrate the E-steps by using the hot-end method instead of the free air, in case the Micro Swiss would affect it, also at 215°C. Then the Flow Cube, which eventually changed my Flow down to 92%. Another GREAT thing was that I noticed that my machine never wanted to save the -entire- E-step. It ignored the decimals, and there is after all almost an entire step between 97, and 97.95. I wondered why that was so, but I then found out that in the Start G-code set in Cura, I had written with comma. M92 E97,95 versus M92 E97.95... so that explained everything. With that set it was all clear. I just finished the 100% Flow Cube and I'm just about to start the second flow cube at 92%. :) THANK YOU for a really great informative video. And. thank you for the additional comment on the -4% on minis again! :D
This seem to be the first calibration video I understand (and I'm not an English speaker). Thank you for the step by step explanation. I'll try it tomorrow
really helpful video... before at 93steps/mm e steps only 40mm length of wire was extruded for 100mm length,after the calibration of e steps using the maths shown in the video now it's perfect...Thanks you made my day..!!
Thankyou soooo much for this video. I have been changing every part almost to stop my printer under-extruding. Ran this calibration and found it was using 40mm rather than 100mm. Oops. Printer working perfect now
Just like so many others, this video helped me with several issues I've encountered with a new printer. Thanks for taking the time to make such a clear, concise, and simple procedure for the community.
Im new to 3d printing got the Ender 3 Pro and this tutorial was 100% spot on, was able to adjust my printer to near perfect, thank you, just amaizing how easy you made it compared to other tutorials
HELLO thanks for the easy to understand video saved me problems down the road the extruder had to be adjusted to 226 to push out 100mm of filament seems like alot of adjustment from 93.00
And yet another person singing your praises. I'm on several 3D printing boards. Any time anyone has stringing issues, I paste this video in the comment boxes. I never have stringing using this video.
by far the best e-steps tutorial on youtube. was having under extrusion on my new WINSINN dual gear extruder, and this fixed it completely. thank you so much.
Thank you. This was enormously helpful in solving my petg printing problem. Along with the calibration process I found my nozzle was loose and oozing out around the threads, then I found the filament tension was too light-after that the calibration-with your guidance was a piece of cake. Now I am in the middle of doing the test cube that you so kindly provided. Again, thank you.
Very well explained thanks. I halved the test extrusion to 50mm because Im a miser :) Still got it dialed in nicely. Stock Ender 3 Pro needed adjustment to 105.68
Just got my Ender 5 on point with this, .8 on all sides. I subbed when watching your video on Ender 3 assembly (before I even had a printer and was researching) because I knew you'd come in handy. Did not dissapoint, thanks!
Just the tutorial I needed! This improved my printquality a lot. The cube comes out flawless, with exactly the right wallthickness. But when I print a miniature, it looks... well... terrible. First it was underextruded, so I upped the flow again to the same flow I used when printing the box. This gave me some improvement, but it still doesn't look great. I'm going to spend my quarantaine-weekend tinkering with these settings some more.
Having had my ender 3 v2 for a week I have had to learn a lot very quickly due to it going from out of the box printing to major stringing issues. This video helped no end as have others to tame the beast. Cheers
Thank you! Great explanation. Mine was on 93, bus only fed 65 mm of filament. So had to change it around 140. Don't know how it was with the stock extruder, but this number is after I replaced the stock extruder with a all-metal dual extruder. Now everything good! ;)
Thanks, very clear and thorough! My Ender 3 came with perfect wall thickness, and I had to compensate for a slight under-extrusion. Why do you say we need a digital calipers? I used analog ones, never failed me before. Never have to switch out batteries.
👋 Hi ! Thank you for your clear and simple explanation ! You are the best!! I saw many tutorials of e steps calibration but they are a bit to complicated even if I am in 3d printing for 1 year 😝 and yes my e steps was on standard setting (shame on me😅) but mostly because it was hard for me to understand how to not make it worse that it was ! And it happened my nozzle clogged because of standard tube (but hey ,it worked 1 years and printed a lot of figurines and different parts with PLA and PLA +) and I decided to calibrait this time. With your explanation it was so easy and yes I am subscribed for long time but like I said I was afraid to not make it worse ! I will recommend you to all who will ask me about e steps and to encourage everyone to not be afraid to do it! Thank you for you help and time wich you spending to do such a nice content 👍
Fantastic, straight to the point, no rocket science involved. You just got another subscriber. My issue though I don't have the same settings, I can't change my steps or anything. Its just not there to change.
In Cura, click on the "Settings" menu, then "Configure setting visibility..." Flow is under the "Material" section. Selecting (checking) it in here will allow it to show up when you click on the block that says something like "Standard Quality - 0.2mm"
As others have said, this was much easier to follow than the rest of the videos on the subject of flow calibration. You also speak very clear. Thank you very much from Spain man!
Thank you so much. You broke down the math so simply. I recently upgraded my board and installed Marlin 2 and was able to get it dialed in within an hour!
Thanks for this explenation, my stock Anet A8+ does not save the esteps. So i search on the internet an I added to my start Gcode a M92 (M92 E101.40; Extrusion Calibration) as a workaround. Thank to you and K for helping me on this.
Excellent tutorial. My flow rate and extrusion was very poor and now its perfect! Also a great tip for the miniature models to knock off an extra 5% on the flow. I'll try that out. Thanks
Fantastic video, sir! I am still fairly new to 3D printing, but embarrassed to say that I now realize much of my issues with the first layer not adhering very well was due to serious under extrusion, which I had to make up for with slower prints, rafts, not printing many small parts, etc. This was very well explained and easy to follow/implement!
Thanks, a really well explained guide. Calibrated my ender 5 pro after fitting microswiss direct drive, found my e-steps were now 138.3 a bit off the suggested 130, was under-extruding by 6mm out of what was meant to be 10cm in the test.
Holy CRAP my printer required an extrusion rate of 138.8%. No wonder my prints looked like garbage. Thank you so much for this tutorial. I no longer have a "good printer" and a "bad printer".
After your great example of calibrating your extruder, I wonder if you really need to change your flow rate at all? Reason being, if you use your micrometer to measure the wall of your first print cube, you can get 0.80mm if you just measure the first few top layers, but if you measure almost all the way down, it fluctuates and you get an average of 0.90mm at 100% flow rate. At least I do, so leaving my flow rate at 100% Great video as usual! The same for 88% flow rate and 2nd test cube print. (My setup happened to be just like your test) I measure 0.70mm the first top layers, and 0.80mm almost all the way down. Not all the way though of course due to elephants foot. So using your method, works great if concerned about overall average of wall thickness of most of the layers top down for flow rate compensation after calibrating.
I had no idea this was even a thing, since I *just* got started in the hobby! Based on your excellent, concise, and clear tutorials, I'm subbing. I've only watched two videos, but you pack a lot of detail into a short format, and that's perfect for me! Since my first printer is an Ender 5 Plus, you look like you'll be a wealth of good information!
Wow, I got 104.03 for my new estep number on my E3 V2, What a coincidence. Anyway, this video really needs to be included with all 3D printers IMO, extremely easy to follow and useful.
Greetings from the UK. You Sir are a genius!! I have now properly calibrated my Ender 3 Pro e steps and flow rate. The prints are coming out so much better. I have subscribed to you. Thanks
Wow, SUPER helpful and clear info on extrusion. In the past I've had more problems with under-extrusion, but recently (after swapping out my extruder assembly) have been overextruding. This video was fantastic. So, now I'm subscribed!
Just wanted to say thanks for this, recently gotten into 3D printing and these videos have been extremely helpful, going to calibrate my flow rate in hopes it helps with stringing (played with retraction settings already and not getting anywhere).
Excellent, excellent video. I'm a beginner and this was extremely helpful. I did this a couple times to narrow it down and I got it basically exact. Thank you for this helpful tutorial.
Just one tip... use an xacto knife to mark the filament. A sharpie introduces some error because of the size of its tip, where as a sharp blade with be more precise. You dont have to cut it deep, just mark it enough so that its visible.
To save filament & time I just created a single wall 2cm long & 0.8mm thick & 3mm tall in AutoDesk for test printing the flow rate. Then printed it with a brim. If anyone does this be sure to only measure the top couple layers due to "elephant foot" of the bottom layers. It could also help to maybe make it a bit higher like 5mm.
I do not comment often on youtube videos but you sir deserve a goddam medal for this video! My prints have gone from mediocre to holy sh*t balls! You are getting a subscribe for life!
Thank you for a great video, I've seen many, many videos on 3D printing. you're one of the best tutors out there. I just wanted you to know that you're helping and motivating people all over the world, and in so doing, you're making the world a better place. If you ever feel bad about yourself, remember that there's lots of people, even a strange man deep in the frozen Arctic printing Ding-Dings that appreciates your work. :)
As always, clearer than any other tutorial on the subject. You're not only a master of 3d printing, but of teaching 3d printing. Thank you!
Thank you! :)
@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors I had my cube print out to be 0.3 mm, so my flow is over 200%
@@corporalmcmuffin7562 you should watch the amount of walls/parameters you are printing
You can watch e-step videos all day on RUclips but this is the first time I've seen someone address the flow rate as part of the accuracy of the printer. Thank you for a great video.
I am a veteran science teacher and I must say: you are by very far the most explicit person who explained this process superbly! I am going to teach my 6th grade students your approach and recommend your site to them!! Thank you very much!
I'm so glad it helped you :)
I have had my printer almost a month now and tried to follow a few different guides none got my printer working properly. I have watched a handful of your videos and now am printing things that don't just fall apart any more lmfao. thank you i am now actually enjoying printing things.
I'm probably too late, but I've just got to let you know that you're the best teacher on RUclips. I've spent the past 4 hours trying to calibrate my e steps using other tutorials and software, not one person said that you can do it right in the machine. Thank you so much!
I unfortunately don't have the 'motion' option on my old Ender3 (board 1.1.3), so I can't do it on the printer. And I don't know how else I could do it.
What a mess some people created out of this! Watched your video as number 7 I think and it's crystal clear! Thank you!
Glad it helped :)
Read a lot about this issue and people made it more complicated than it is. Even after 4 years, your video is still golden. Thank you!
*edit* the dragon reminds me of those the dragons in the "Inner Space" game, if you know it.
I’ve had a 3D printer for over two years now and recently purchased a third. I’ve always been satisfied with the okay-ish prints based for simply bed leveling and extruded filament. I’m going to watch all of your tutorials because I’m more than ready to take this hobby to the next level:)
I had an Ender3 and loved it so I bought a CR10 and have had nothing but problems with it. I have spent hours on reddit feeds, facebook groups and youtube videos with almost all of it stating that it was a clogged nozzle, warped extruder, cheap Bowden tube, or quick disconnects. I have replaced the Stepper Motor, the Extruder to a metal one, the Bowden tube to a better one, the quick disconnects, the Bowden tube to a better one, the nozzle a dozen times and was ready to throw it in the trash. After testing everything with your tutorial, I am not sure why but mine was almost 20mm short of what it should have been in the extrusion. Once adjusted I feel like I am back on my ender3 again. Thank you so much for spending the time to explain it to us non-engineering types.
When I first got my Ender 5, I watched this channel for assembly & it was first class. I recently upgraded to a dual gear extruder (I didn't think to re-calibrate & had terrible delaminating - 🤦🏻♂️) I followed this video & again first class instructions made it an easy fix. Thanks again for coming to my aid, your time and clear instructions are very much appreciated - Kelvin
My poor Ender-5 Pro went over so many modifications (all metal hot end, direct drive extruder, dual gear extruder, linear rails...) that this kind of adjustments are mandatory. The numbers I got are completely different and the end results are awesome!
Thank you so much for the clear and straightforward explanation, especially regarding the underextrusion technique for miniatures!!! Cheers!
At last someone who isn’t about their “ ego “ and fantastic they are.Just tells it how it is simple and easy to understand. Great keep it up l am fan forever
Thank you. This helped walk me through the Flow setting so now my brick studs print at the same size I designed them for, rather than 0.1 mm smaller.
New to 3d printing.
Creality CR10-s5
Upgraded to Microswiss direct drive extruder.
Thanks to this video, I discovered I was under-extruding by 32mm!
Thank you very much!
Thank you so much. I had to bring it up to 145.31 from 93 with an aftermarket extruder. I was going crazy changing my settings in Cura. I still need to do flow calibrations but you Sir just gave me some fantastic knowledge. I did Not know under extruding was better for smaller parts but it makes sense and I'm going to start. Thank you again!
Mine was extruding almost 250mm per 100mm, no wonder things were getting all messed up. This helped a lot, thanks!
this was a lifesaver after replacing the motor on my ender 5 plus to get a better gear, thank you tons
Have been using this guy's videos since I have gotten my Ender 3 a year ago and have never been steered wrong! My favorite 3D Printing RUclipsr.
This video saved my awful previous prints, I realised when my printer expected to feed 100mm, it actually fed 45mm instead! I like this tutorial because it does not require to connect your printer thru usb with a cable or octopi, you only need basic tools.
thought i was having z banding. its the flow rate this whole time!! 3 weeks of troubleshooting! I'm glad i found this video
still the best tutorial I know for Extruder Calibration. Thank you!
Followed to a T, 35 mins later perfect estep calibration and perfect flow rate. The definitive tutorial on estep calibration
Thank you so dearly I have searched the web. And you and 1 other guy are my go to teachers. Ctrlpew just lured me into buying one I didn't realize all the work involved! I've had it a week and between work and being a dad I have only leveled my bed so far! My calibration cubes look like poop but you lead the way good sir. Lead the way!
Huge thanks. Dialed in my printer after a custom firmware upgrade. Originally was over extruding by 47mm!. Prints are better than ever. This is best performed after tightening up the belts on all axis
I think I've referred like atleast a 100 people to this video. This is RUclips gold. Such a easy mechanical way of doing this. Everyone else wants you to mess with software.
This was by far the easiest video tutorial I have seen on anything 3d printing. Thank you for this and you earned a subscriber.
Thank you. Mine new ender 3 was feeding 3.5 cm and printing very bad, now is perfect!
Boy, I keep coming back to this same tutorial at least once a month when reworking my existing, or working with another, 3d printer. You're the best, thanks for what you do.
Memory loss problems?
This is the best channel for info regarding 3d printing and ender printers. Whether you are printing models, PPE or custom parts for cinema cameras these are the BEST videos to watch.
The fact that your print bed has that massive scratch on it really makes me feel better about myself lol
Thank you for mentioning the flow calibration too!
Oh, I did NOT know about that minus 4% for small miniatures! But after your explanation it sounds super reasonable!
I'll write that up and try it next time for sure! :)
Also just had to do this again since I upgraded to a Micro Swiss all metal titanium hot end, so I needed to first perform a PID Tuning for 215°C (most used temp).
Then re-calibrate the E-steps by using the hot-end method instead of the free air, in case the Micro Swiss would affect it, also at 215°C.
Then the Flow Cube, which eventually changed my Flow down to 92%.
Another GREAT thing was that I noticed that my machine never wanted to save the -entire- E-step. It ignored the decimals, and there is after all almost an entire step between 97, and 97.95.
I wondered why that was so, but I then found out that in the Start G-code set in Cura, I had written with comma.
M92 E97,95 versus M92 E97.95... so that explained everything.
With that set it was all clear.
I just finished the 100% Flow Cube and I'm just about to start the second flow cube at 92%. :)
THANK YOU for a really great informative video.
And. thank you for the additional comment on the -4% on minis again! :D
This seem to be the first calibration video I understand (and I'm not an English speaker). Thank you for the step by step explanation. I'll try it tomorrow
Insanely helpful instructions, my new printer prints perfectly now.
Glad it helped you! :)
really helpful video... before at 93steps/mm e steps only 40mm length of wire was extruded for 100mm length,after the calibration of e steps using the maths shown in the video now it's perfect...Thanks you made my day..!!
Thankyou soooo much for this video. I have been changing every part almost to stop my printer under-extruding. Ran this calibration and found it was using 40mm rather than 100mm. Oops. Printer working perfect now
how did you manage to get the extruder ratio high enough for that? I was extruding 32mm! my ratio would have been 234 or something?
Just like so many others, this video helped me with several issues I've encountered with a new printer. Thanks for taking the time to make such a clear, concise, and simple procedure for the community.
Im new to 3d printing got the Ender 3 Pro and this tutorial was 100% spot on, was able to adjust my printer to near perfect, thank you, just amaizing how easy you made it compared to other tutorials
HELLO thanks for the easy to understand video saved me problems down the road the extruder had to be adjusted to 226 to push out 100mm of filament seems like alot of adjustment from 93.00
I needed 253.7
As someone just starting out this base calculation is very helpful. I will have journal an extruder profile for each nozzle/filament in the future.
One of the best tutorials I've seen. you explain everything in a way that's easy to follow. you should be a teacher.
LOL, I used to coach/teach middle-school robotics.
Finally someone not talking shxt telling me how to plug it into the wall and their favourite dinosaur they like to print
hahhahahhha
Spot on man hahaha
I like two some filliment
A history in a book educat my cids
And yet another person singing your praises. I'm on several 3D printing boards. Any time anyone has stringing issues, I paste this video in the comment boxes. I never have stringing using this video.
by far the best e-steps tutorial on youtube. was having under extrusion on my new WINSINN dual gear extruder, and this fixed it completely. thank you so much.
Thank you. This was enormously helpful in solving my petg printing problem. Along with the calibration process I found my nozzle was loose and oozing out around the threads, then I found the filament tension was too light-after that the calibration-with your guidance was a piece of cake. Now I am in the middle of doing the test cube that you so kindly provided. Again, thank you.
Very well explained thanks. I halved the test extrusion to 50mm because Im a miser :) Still got it dialed in nicely. Stock Ender 3 Pro needed adjustment to 105.68
I nearly fell of my chair @1.19 "This is something you are going to need to do" I thought at that moment Tom picked up a small hammer!
haha...i thought the same thing
Just got my Ender 5 on point with this, .8 on all sides. I subbed when watching your video on Ender 3 assembly (before I even had a printer and was researching) because I knew you'd come in handy. Did not dissapoint, thanks!
Just the tutorial I needed! This improved my printquality a lot. The cube comes out flawless, with exactly the right wallthickness. But when I print a miniature, it looks... well... terrible. First it was underextruded, so I upped the flow again to the same flow I used when printing the box. This gave me some improvement, but it still doesn't look great. I'm going to spend my quarantaine-weekend tinkering with these settings some more.
Thank you very much. Straight to the point and very easy to follow.
Having had my ender 3 v2 for a week I have had to learn a lot very quickly due to it going from out of the box printing to major stringing issues.
This video helped no end as have others to tame the beast. Cheers
Thank you! Great explanation. Mine was on 93, bus only fed 65 mm of filament. So had to change it around 140. Don't know how it was with the stock extruder, but this number is after I replaced the stock extruder with a all-metal dual extruder. Now everything good! ;)
Made calibrating so much easier to understand than any other video I've seen. Thank you a ton.
Thanks, very clear and thorough! My Ender 3 came with perfect wall thickness, and I had to compensate for a slight under-extrusion. Why do you say we need a digital calipers? I used analog ones, never failed me before. Never have to switch out batteries.
Makes it easier to read the value instead of counting steps on the vernie scale.
Thank you, this is by far the clearest and most complete calibration video I’ve seen. Much appreciated
This!!! The other videos I watched I was like, "Well looks I won't be calibrating my e-steps."
Hi, Thank you for this video. It helped. I followed the instructions until the "flow" part. I think it worked. I'm testing it right now. 🤞
thank you helped a lot, came back to watch again.
This video is honestly just what I needed!
👋 Hi ! Thank you for your clear and simple explanation ! You are the best!! I saw many tutorials of e steps calibration but they are a bit to complicated even if I am in 3d printing for 1 year 😝 and yes my e steps was on standard setting (shame on me😅) but mostly because it was hard for me to understand how to not make it worse that it was ! And it happened my nozzle clogged because of standard tube (but hey ,it worked 1 years and printed a lot of figurines and different parts with PLA and PLA +) and I decided to calibrait this time. With your explanation it was so easy and yes I am subscribed for long time but like I said I was afraid to not make it worse ! I will recommend you to all who will ask me about e steps and to encourage everyone to not be afraid to do it!
Thank you for you help and time wich you spending to do such a nice content 👍
Fantastic, straight to the point, no rocket science involved. You just got another subscriber. My issue though I don't have the same settings, I can't change my steps or anything. Its just not there to change.
In Cura, click on the "Settings" menu, then "Configure setting visibility..." Flow is under the "Material" section. Selecting (checking) it in here will allow it to show up when you click on the block that says something like "Standard Quality - 0.2mm"
This is the best e-step calibration guide I've ever seen on youtube.
As others have said, this was much easier to follow than the rest of the videos on the subject of flow calibration. You also speak very clear. Thank you very much from Spain man!
Thank you so much. You broke down the math so simply. I recently upgraded my board and installed Marlin 2 and was able to get it dialed in within an hour!
I saved most of your videos because you get straight to the point and not spend 10-15 minute in the beginning with nonsense.
Thanks for this explenation, my stock Anet A8+ does not save the esteps.
So i search on the internet an I added to my start Gcode a M92 (M92 E101.40; Extrusion Calibration) as a workaround.
Thank to you and K for helping me on this.
Excellent tutorial. My flow rate and extrusion was very poor and now its perfect! Also a great tip for the miniature models to knock off an extra 5% on the flow. I'll try that out.
Thanks
Thank you,Thank you,Thank you,Thank you,Thank you,Thank you,Thank you. I was about to throw my Ender out the dang window, everything works now.!
Fantastic video, sir! I am still fairly new to 3D printing, but embarrassed to say that I now realize much of my issues with the first layer not adhering very well was due to serious under extrusion, which I had to make up for with slower prints, rafts, not printing many small parts, etc. This was very well explained and easy to follow/implement!
Thanks, a really well explained guide. Calibrated my ender 5 pro after fitting microswiss direct drive, found my e-steps were now 138.3 a bit off the suggested 130, was under-extruding by 6mm out of what was meant to be 10cm in the test.
Holy CRAP my printer required an extrusion rate of 138.8%. No wonder my prints looked like garbage. Thank you so much for this tutorial. I no longer have a "good printer" and a "bad printer".
I finally did this and WOW! It makes a huge difference! Thank you! Love the videos!
After your great example of calibrating your extruder, I wonder if you really need to change your flow rate at all?
Reason being, if you use your micrometer to measure the wall of your first print cube, you can get 0.80mm if you just measure the first few top layers, but if you measure almost all the way down, it fluctuates and you get an average of 0.90mm at 100% flow rate. At least I do, so leaving my flow rate at 100% Great video as usual!
The same for 88% flow rate and 2nd test cube print. (My setup happened to be just like your test) I measure 0.70mm the first top layers, and 0.80mm almost all the way down. Not all the way though of course due to elephants foot.
So using your method, works great if concerned about overall average of wall thickness of most of the layers top down for flow rate compensation after calibrating.
I always wondered what happened to Billy Corgan. Just kidding you're the man thx for all your help.
I had no idea this was even a thing, since I *just* got started in the hobby! Based on your excellent, concise, and clear tutorials, I'm subbing. I've only watched two videos, but you pack a lot of detail into a short format, and that's perfect for me! Since my first printer is an Ender 5 Plus, you look like you'll be a wealth of good information!
Wow, I got 104.03 for my new estep number on my E3 V2, What a coincidence. Anyway, this video really needs to be included with all 3D printers IMO, extremely easy to follow and useful.
someone who can actually explain something! thank you! subbed
Greetings from the UK. You Sir are a genius!! I have now properly calibrated my Ender 3 Pro e steps and flow rate. The prints are coming out so much better. I have subscribed to you. Thanks
Excellent, clear, concise. Thank you.
Wow, SUPER helpful and clear info on extrusion. In the past I've had more problems with under-extrusion, but recently (after swapping out my extruder assembly) have been overextruding. This video was fantastic. So, now I'm subscribed!
Thanks. I just upgraded my Ender 3 Pro to the Micro Swiss direct drive & hot end. This was very helpful.
Wow, thank you! Mine came to 40mm, that's why my prints were very brittle and I could almost see through them.
Onpoint! This just made my life a million times easier with the new Micro Swiss Direct Drive, thanks again for the awesome work!
Love how clear and well explained your videos are. Thank you for sharing you're knowledge!
Mine also only went 89mm, made calibrating easy. Thanks for the video.
Just wanted to say thanks for this, recently gotten into 3D printing and these videos have been extremely helpful, going to calibrate my flow rate in hopes it helps with stringing (played with retraction settings already and not getting anywhere).
This has to be the best calibration video, everything is so clearly explained. Thank you.
You saved my day. Got you a subscriber. Thank You so much. It cant be clearer than this
I bought a new aluminum dual gear extruder and have to calibrate the steps, thanks you very much.
Excellent, excellent video. I'm a beginner and this was extremely helpful. I did this a couple times to narrow it down and I got it basically exact. Thank you for this helpful tutorial.
thank you for this you go more in-depth than others tend to.
Just one tip... use an xacto knife to mark the filament. A sharpie introduces some error because of the size of its tip, where as a sharp blade with be more precise. You dont have to cut it deep, just mark it enough so that its visible.
That's why most people use the edge of the sharpie mark as the measuring point, not the center of it.
Best E-step video I've watched on this topic yet. Easy peasy. Thanks!
To save filament & time I just created a single wall 2cm long & 0.8mm thick & 3mm tall in AutoDesk for test printing the flow rate. Then printed it with a brim. If anyone does this be sure to only measure the top couple layers due to "elephant foot" of the bottom layers. It could also help to maybe make it a bit higher like 5mm.
Probably the best video out there. Thank you!
Thank You! Following your tutorial help make my prints fantastic!
Thanks for this. My stock Ender 3 pro has the exact same numbers as yours, so it made it rather easy to calibrate. Thanks
I do not comment often on youtube videos but you sir deserve a goddam medal for this video! My prints have gone from mediocre to holy sh*t balls! You are getting a subscribe for life!
Night and day difference! Amazing. Thanks for sharing this tip.
Thanks for the tutorial, im having underextrution problem.
Thank you for a great video, I've seen many, many videos on 3D printing. you're one of the best tutors out there. I just wanted you to know that you're helping and motivating people all over the world, and in so doing, you're making the world a better place. If you ever feel bad about yourself, remember that there's lots of people, even a strange man deep in the frozen Arctic printing Ding-Dings that appreciates your work. :)
LOL, thank you :)