I was looking for a CNC router that can cut aluminum front panels (1 or 2mm thick). The other routers on amazon seem to have problems with aluminum but now I see this one on video this looks like a bit of overkill. This machine is huge. Great that you posted this video!
Yes, you can cut 1-2mm thick aluminum on this unit. You will need to watch your feeds and speeds for the material you are looking to cut. But yes you can cut it. One thing to note... This machine is made of aluminum. So there is flex in the gantry and Z axis.
I got one of these Chinese machine, too. It's not advised to start the spindle at high speed as this will shorten the life span of the bearing. Start at 3000rpm and increase for every 3-5 minutes. This will help the lubrication on the bearing. If you have more budget, you can upgrade the bearing on spindle. With 4 bearings, the noise will decrease.
Thank you for your comment... but, I disagree. The VFD, within the control box, will ramp up the speed on its own. And every 3-5 minutes will make it take a long time to get up to speed. However, 3000RPM, as per the specs on the spindle/VFD, will cause issues of its own. The minimum speed, for the 2.2KW spindle, is 10000RPM (as per the vendor). At 3000RPM, due to how a VFD works, could cause the VFD to overheat. That's my $0.02.
@@jeffmorlen Well, the Chinese vendor of the spindle told me about this. It depends on the lubrication they implemented for the bearing. I think most Chinese spindles are the same type.
Who is the vendor of the Chinese spindle? Mine is not marked in a manner to determine who the made it... so, could be the same or it could be different. If you have information, and care to share, let me know and I'll host it for everyone. Thanks!
Jeff - I’ve had my 6090 for a little over 4 years now (same brand). Done a lot of work with it and mostly using “VCarve” for my CAM Software. All that being said I’ve also had numerous issues with it - overheating, have had to rewire the x and z axis, and now the touch plate won’t work. It’s good that I enjoy tinkering with it as much as I do - I guess it’s called a hobby CNC for a reason! I enjoyed watching your video .
Hi Jeff i have brought this same machine and having a hard time getting it to run with the software, i got the machine running manually, unable to get those download they send to work is it possible to give some guidance please,
I got my6090 on ebay ordered last week for $1300 im thinking it was a mistake but there still offering same price and shipping was free and got here fast
Hey Jeff, I know this is 3 years old, but I wanted to let you know that I worked with a couple that has one of these machines. I know Mach3 pretty well, but these china machines throw convention out the window. While working with them, trying to get their machine running I kept referring back to this video for the ports and pins settings. So thank you for taking the time to make the video. It allowed me to help them get their machine up and moving. Running? Not so much yet, but that will come. Again thank you for the vid. By chance, do you have the link for the files on the touch off tool probe? I did not see the macro in your list.
I added the auto zero script to the channel info page (at the bottom). I think it is "current" but I have not looked at it in a little bit. If you use it and have questions, please let me know.
Hello, Jeff. Does the cnc has a driver I need to install on the pc? Or it installs automatically when you plug usb cable to pc? You install first Mach 3 and then plug the usb? Or viceversa? And do I need to change settings on Mach 3? Thanks!
There isn't a driver, for Windows, really. The DLL that you need, for the R&R Motion Controller, is dropped into the plugins directory within Mach3. As far as settings that need to be changed in Mach3... Yes, TONS. But they should be within the XML file you can get from the mfg. or seller. If you don't have one, I have an XML file for download (check the channel page).
Hi Jeff, I wonder you could help please. I have a similar 6040 router with Mack3 installed. Unfortunately my PC went down, I have repaired the computer and re-installed Mach3. I have all the stepper motors working fine, but I can't get the spindle to run. The spindle on/off button in Mach3 is flashing when I run the program as if I'm cutting, but the spindle is still not moving. I don't have any instructions on the spindle settings for Mach3 so I'm guessing. Do you have a video of setting the spindle in Mach3 or know of the setting I need to use please. Any help would be really appreciated. Thank you for any help you can give, Terry.
You should be able to take the XML file from my download (link in another comment) and use it to configure your machine. It should have all the settings for Mach3 in it.
@@zachofalltrades1111 The easy answer is no. This is due to the software you get being a Windows based software package (Mach3). The hard answer is yes. There are two paths you could take with this... 1) You could run Parallels/VirtualBox/VMWare Fusion on your Mac and pass the USB port through to a Windows virtual machine, running Mach3... but I don't know what type of performance you would get. 2) You could strip the RnR Controller out of the VFD housing and replace it with a GRBL based controller. This would give you the ability to run a GRBL sender in place of Mach3. I'm not sure if either of these options would be worth the time it would take to setup. You could simply use your Mac for design and then get a cheap-o Windows laptop to run the machine?! Just a thought.
Hello Jeff! I recently started working on CNC as part of my undergrad research. I also have this specific model and have seen a few of your videos which I thank you so much for (this model is hard to find any guides on and I can't find a manual online either). Anyways, have you ever gotten an error after milling for about 15-20 minutes and it says e Oh? I am trying to figure out what the problem is because it keeps happening no matter how much I add ice to the water pump or if I add an additional fan to the console. Would very much appreciate your help!
YES!! I have gotten the same error. The error indicates that the VFD has overheated. It is a real pain in the... you know where. I have found a couple people say that they added fans to the control box to keep it cool. I have also found a guy who said that he reversed the fan direction and that helped. I have gotten it 5-10 times and it is always in the middle of final pass cut (when doing 3D stuff). Mach3 will give you the ability to start at a line number and that is how I handled it (without modification) in the past. Meaning, if you get the 0h error, stop the machine. Document the line number it says it was on and step backwards until it picks up where it left off. By "step backwards" I mean... If it errors at line 1800... go back to 1750. If that isn't back far enough, then go back to 1700. I've had luck with this... but, be warned, it is NOT a perfect fix for it. I hope this helps. Maybe I'll tear my down in a video and show everyone what is really inside... with explanations.
I bought the same machine, just a slightly newer version. How satisfied are you with the machine? I have a problem with the Z-axis, it only moves in the negative direction when I press Z+ on the remote, and even in the program when I enter the command Z+10, it still moves downwards in the negative direction. What could be the problem?
For the work that I do, it is perfect. It hit the price point that I needed, the features that I needed, and the size that I was looking for. For the Z axis only moving down... does it make noise and try to move up? If not, you may have some other parameter in Mach3 backwards... but I wouldn't be able to tell you what without looking at your setup (sorry).
I'm very interested in the 4060Z CNC router. I'm an absolute newbie with CNC routers. I have a couple questions. I will be acquiring it with the 4th axis. I have already acquired a Sculpfun S9 laser. My main purpose is to mount the laser on this machine to checker gun stocks. Sculpfun assured me that it was powerful enough to do this job ( at low production). My question is what components ( ie: 12V power supply, control cable, etc.) what else would I need to make this laser work on these Chinese routers? It was recommended to use Light burn software. Also, I want to do round carving with the router - what software would you recommend to transfer drawings, art work etc. - Corel or similar? I also have a used Legacy Artisan 2'x4' 5 axis machine which I have not plugged in yet or should I use this machine? It was recommended that I learn on a smaller machine, Any help will be much appreciated. Thanks!
Not sure how you are going to mount the laser to that (4060Z) machine. You will need to find a way to trigger the laser to turn it on/off... which is not a function that this/these CNC machines have. So, I'm sure that will be a challenge. If you don't need the larger format... I'd almost recommend a K40 laser instead.
All of these (this style) are made by CNCEST. Most of the pages on eBay state that they are unbranded. I just bought a 6040. Need to make a bench for it and assemble it. That's going to be delayed a few days as my order for the lumber got canceled. Have to redo with different lumber. Pain in the ass. Making it over kill with 4x4s.
i think these chinese made 6090 cnc routers are a very good value however how bad is the flex on the aluminium bed?...i see no supports underneath other than at both ends...seems like a severe design flaw...no?
You mentioned that there are six limit switches,(2)x,(2)y and (2) z. All in parallel. No home switches. Is this actually the case? Mine doesn't have any Z limits that I can find. I guess it achieves the functions effectively by moving each axis one at a time. I am wondering how this all works, in concert. Haven't started running my 6090 yet. I have purchased, better controllers to redo the whole thing.
I think that that statement was made based off the documentation on Amazon regarding the machine. My machine has no limit switches on the Z Axis either. As far as homing switches, there aren't any. But you could use limit switches on X and Y to do homing. You'd just need to write the script to do that.
Hi Jeff. What type of connection is that to your pc. I once bought a machine that had LPT and usb. It turned out they pirated someones firmware and pc software. You couldnt update or use usb connection with mach3. In future i need to ask better questions to avoid a repeat.
One thing about some of those cards... The CNC breakout boards you find with a USB and an LTP (Parallel) port on them usually only use the USB for power. They still require a parallel port connection to move the machine. I've seen several with both ports too and, personally, don't care for them. They always seem to be very low quality. My CNC breakout board is, probably, a knock off of the R&R Motion controller board. This board uses USB only and does not require a parallel port to run. You do need to install a DLL into your Mach3 folder for it to work, but I've had very few problems with mine. Feel free to ask me questions... I've been in the CNC space for 10+ years now (personally) and another 10+ doing software setups and first run stuff, professionally, before that. ** I don't do this for my work any longer. It is now just a hobby.
Hello, great video. What is the difference between 6090GZ and 6090Z? You recommend usb or parallel connection? You recommended me to buy 6040 cnc, to learn the process or to buy directly the 6090 cnc, so i can have it forever? I am an engineer, experienced with autocad 2d, and less on fusion 360.
I'm not sure what the difference would be. I've searched for the 6090Z and could not find anything significant. Most of the differences that I noticed were things like limit switch placement and the advertisement of the unit as being made of "steel". Mine, I believe, at the time of the purchase, said it was made of steel too... but most of the larger parts are aluminum with steel screws and covers. Of course the linear rails are polished steel as well. I hope that helps. Sorry I don't have more information on the differences.
hey Jeff, thanks for all your videos. I just finished putting together my 6090, got it working with Mach3 thanks to your other video, but my Y axis (900mm direction) seems to be binding. I can move the axis by putting pliers on the y axis handwheel, but its fairly difficult to move, and when moving with Mach3 the y axis motor makes a humming noise but doesnt actually move. would you happen to have any ideas? how difficult is it to move your y axis using the handwheel with the machine off?
My Y axis moves pretty easy without the power on. I would think that something is aligned incorrectly or there is something in the way. Alternatively, the linear rails may not be parallel and that could also cause a binding scenario. You can take the gantry off and still run the machine. I would probably take that off and then remove the bed of the unit. That way you can see what is happening when you try to move it. Sorry your unit is not working properly. If you cannot get it fixed easily, I would contact the seller and let them know of your issue. They may have some more insight as to what could be causing the issue.
@@jeffmorlen thank you so much for the reply Jeff, I actually found the issue, the y axis motor was damaged in transport, removing the motor allowed me to move the axis freely. I'm in contact with my seller to get a replacement. thanks again for your detailed response and troubleshooting support :)
So, there are some things to keep in mind when answering your question. The working size of the machine is approximately 850mm by 600mm. The size of a Stratocaster is, about, 307mm by 446mm. The size of a Telecaster is, about, 324mm by 406mm. The size of a Gibson Les Paul is, about, 330mm by 440mm. You can see that this is able to machine the body... being 45mm to 50mm thick. The neck is the hard part. The neck is, about, 637mm to 653mm long. Most have a 14 degree dip at the head. So, if I were going to make one on this machine... here's how I would do it. I'd use a fixture to hold the body for the A and B sides of the body. I'd use reference pins to align it all. I'd make a jig to hold the neck and only use the machine to cut the rough shape of the neck and head. After that... it's all blood, sweat and tears! I wanna do this too (as I sit here next to my four guitars)!! Good luck!
Hi Jeff, Thank You for your video. I read on Mach 3&4 that a laptop cannot be used. I see that you are using a laptop just fine. Is there something that I am missing with that?
Sorry for the delay. Yes, the documentation, for Mach3 and Mach4 does indicate that you should not use a laptop. So there is that... but... you can if you use USB (it seems to me) to communicate with your stepper driver controller board... like the RnR Motion in the 6090. So, to be "safe" I would say that you should not run Mach3 or Mach4 on a laptop to control your router. But, just like everything else, your experience may vary from what is recommended vs. what works for you. Personally, I'd be worried about the laptop stopping the job part way through or something. If you watch a lot of CNC videos on RUclips... a lot of people run Mach3 on a laptop... but, like I said, your experience may be different. Hope that helps... even though it is sorta a non-answer answer.
I have the 6090 machine USB and can only get motion on the XYZ but no spindle control in Mach 3. Also the supplied USB hand held controller suffers the same condition. I have installed the rnr motion dll into the plugins folder...along with license file. but no luck. I also seek knowledge about scanning an image and cutting out the shape. (In my case wood mouldings...from which to cut a template and subsequently grind the knives from that template to reproduce the original scanned sample.) .
I have heard of issues, just like yours, from some owners of the Chinese 6090GZ CNC machines. It seems that some vendors DO NOT connect the motion controller to the VFD and require you to control it manually. However, there are a couple things we can do to check this out... Can you get the spindle to spin using the control panel on the control box? Here is a link to a PDF that I made about testing your spindle. 1drv.ms/b/s!AgxiwVost-OPi4ES7Ug-cm8Gwsr11Q?e=HW9JYY Try this and let me know.
Hey Jeff I have the same machine and programming. And all I can get it do is the router will turn on that's it. Nothing else will not move. Any help hints. It won't move in computer mode or manually mode
I'm happy to help you. Please look at my page details for an email address you can use to contact me. From there we can setup some time via Zoom/Teams/other for me to give you a hand.
Just picked up one of these for myself and will make a great little addition to the Laser cutter/engraver in the workshop. Thanks for taking the time going through the setup.. The Spindle one was the killer for me so thanks :) Off to look at the Tool Zeroing now and making an adapter for the vacuum 😁
Shane- I'm glad you like the video. It was my first try at something like this. If you have any questions, as you progress with your 6090, let me know. I'd be happy to help.
Thanks for the video, Jeff... I've had my eye on the 6090s for a while now and pulled the trigger after watching your setup. The lack of instructions was holding me back and rightfully so as now that I have one (same unit you have in the video), I am still quite lost as far as setting up the VFD and Mach3. * Not sure it the VFD was supposed to have an initial setup or not but mine doesn't seem to follow any of the settings I have found. Could really use the settings. * If I understand correctly, Mach is going to need axis motor pin information, is this something you figured out.
David- You will need to contact the seller about what settings your VFD needs. I have a document that outlines all the settings that can be set on it. Keep in mind that this is for MY VFD and it may not be the same as yours. You can find it here: ( 1drv.ms/b/s!AgxiwVost-OPi4EGSgTsIGiy0xF8RQ?e=g1ym85 ) As far as pin configuration, my CNC has an USB RnR Motion stepper controller. I'm not sure what yours has. Where did you buy it? What does it look like? Is it a parallel port version (old) or a USB version (new)? Did yours come with a CD? It may have all your settings and configuration information on it. I can say this... Before you make any changes to your VFD, try to run it manually. If your CNC is the same as mine, you should be able to power on the system, turn the PC/Manual switch to manual, press RUN, and then turn the knob to start the spindle. If you have a link to what you bought, I will take a look and give you my thoughts.
Just got a 6040gz and hoping this will help me getting it going. I got the spindle turning in manual, and downloaded mach 3 on a windows 7 with USB, but cant get nothing to move.
Is yours USB or Parallel? Did it come with a CD or USB stick? If you have a link to where you purchased it, I can take a look. Some of these are now using GRBL controllers vs. RnR Motion controllers... so, there may be clues in the product description.
HI Jeff, thank you for the great video! I'm really interested in this router but want to put a dust hood on the bottom of the spindle. What is the diameter of the spindle motor? Did you ever use a dust hood with your unit?
Hey Jeff, looking to buy similar machine from ebay . just curious for the travel disnatnce of the axes , do you have any intel on this ? Need at least 150mm in Z- axe for my purpose of use . Grts , thx in advance
Davy- Unfortunately, the distance between the aluminum bed and the bottom of the gantry is only, 4 9/16". I have a pic that shows this if you need confirmation. Sorry.
This video of yours has been like the light to start understanding the machine, but I have a question, how can I check the vertical axis of the machine once I have it connected to the computer
The vertical axis (the Z axis) can be controlled, in Mach3, with the Page UP and Page DOWN keys on the keyboard. If connected properly, and the software is working, this should show you movement of your Z axis. (You do need to click on the RESET button within Mach3 before movement can be done)
I have links to the software bundle in my channel description and on many of the videos. They are links to my OneDrive account. ** NOTE: I did not include any licensing with these files. You will need to provide your own Mach3 license if you choose to use Mach3.
To be honest... the system does not come with a USB stick or CD/DVD or anything. I needed to contact the seller to get the software that works with it. That ZIP file (you can find attached to my channel) contains the RnR Motion Controller driver, Mach3, and some PDF files. If the version of this unit you buy has something other than the RnR Motion Controller board, then you'd need to use what you can get from the vendor. Please note: My machine will not work with any type of Arduino CNC controller board software, LinuxCNC, Mach4, or other 3rd party software. My unit will only work with Mach3.
Thanks Jeff. I am considering getting either a 6040 or 6090 and your videos are greatly appreciated, as I am completely new to the CNC world, other than lasers. Quick question - I actually want a 6040 but I noticed that none of them that I see have limit switches. Do you think this would be a huge annoyance with everyday usage?
It's different for everyone. I know that before I had this CNC machine I had a smaller one that didn't come with limit switches. I did add them, in the long run, but after 8 years of using it without. It mostly comes down to knowing your machine and knowing that the project will fit in the space you have defined. If you are going to push the limits, as in the size, of the machine... you will probably benefit from limit switches. If everything you are planning on doing (in the near future) is quite a bit smaller than the machines size, you probably won't benefit from having them. I hope that this makes sense. Let me know if you have any more questions.
@@jeffmorlen Thanks man. I think I'm just so used to having limit switches on my laser because it homes itself every time on startup and if those limit switches weren't there then it would just repeatedly crash itself into the side. I guess I can get used to not having them on the router, with a different mind set. It's odd that you can't even find a 6040 with limit switches (and no ports for them on the back of the VFD box).
Question how do you like it ? Is it worth the money ? Can you cut hardwood with it ? Is this the 6090 model? I do woodworking as well have been looking at much heavier models from China. Like about 500 lbs . But if this can do what I need it would be a lot cheaper and a whole lot easier to get
Yes, I do like it. So far I've cut standard plywood, MDF, poplar, aspen, pine, walnut, ash and oak. It does well in each... but you will want to spend some money on good bits. One thing to look at is the math on the wattage of the spindle... they claim 2.2kw... but the math doesn't add up to that amount of power. Another is, that when digging into these CNC machines, you need to look at things like "how fast are the rapids?" I bring this point up because, on this model, without any changes to drivers or steppers, I'm limited to, about, 1500mm/min. Anything more than that and you start to run into stepper stutter and you start to loose steps... so, an upgrade is in order... but I'm not sure if that's the stepper driver or the steppers themselves (yet). So the real question is... "Is this CNC machine worth the $2000-ish you pay for it?" I would say that it is. It is much better than what I had before (Probotix Fireball V90).
Hello Jeff. Enjoyed your unboxing vid. In your experience with your machine would you say that it tips the scale in the mill direction or is it strictly a cnc router?
That is a great question. I would say that, due to the construction, it CAN be used to mill soft metals. You can find some people using the 3060 for metal on RUclips. For me, this will be just a CNC Router. But... it's a great question so let's address some things. Things that I have found that do not lend it to milling are: - The VFD does not allow the spindle to go slow enough, at a high torque level, to mill. The VFD and spindle should not be run below 10000RPM. I have found that the VFD overheats if you push it at a low RPM. - The gantry does have flex in it. But, even when working on a Bridgeport knee mill (manual) you will have flex (usually in the head). But the amount is the issue. The flex of the gantry causes some issues under load and your accuracy will suffer. You will have severe drift in your tooling if you don't have the right feeds/speeds. - Lack of cooling (by default) make is ill suited to milling. You can/could add a surround and then add liquid cooling for the tool, but, by default, it isn't setup for it. I hope this helps!! I have not had a chance to get back in the shop lately... but I hope to have some other videos coming out soon!
@@jeffmorlen I appreciate the prompt and engaging response. Thoughtful of you. As I would like to try my hand at injection molds using aluminum medium, tool tolerances are of grave consideration. - In regards to the VFD overheating when run below 10000RPM, is it that the internal fan (of the VDF) is not adequate to cool the electrical components or is this behavior indicative of VDF's that are not mill? - The flex that you mention...the following is a thread/post on how one guy (don't know his name) overcame the issue. I believe his unit to be identical to yours, with modifications to the bed. Although your device is purposed solely for routing perhaps it will be of some value to your other subscribers. ruclips.net/video/ybvUcnKno-E/видео.html - I would be game to adding a cooling and reclamation...if possible. Jeff you have been INCREDIBLY helpful. The time and detail you take creating these videos is appreciated...big time. Looking forward to more of your vids coming down the pike!!
Okay... X-Y-Z are the three planes that you work in. A-B-C are usually the auxiliary planes you can use. "A" usually being considered the rotary axis. Using the hold downs is hard to explain. Think of putting the bold head in the track (table) and then using the other bolt to set the height and the wing nut to tighten it all down... if that makes sense. I don't have a video on using the rotary axis yet... but am working on it.
Thanks for the video! Definitely helps my decision process. 1 question. I read a lot of people have issues with the machine not coming with driver software. Seems like it can be a nightmare hunting it down. There are so many different models available. Did yours come with it installed? Do you mind showing the exact model # you purchased? Thanks .. just a newbie looking to get a start in cnc world.
Lol I’ve read through comments and see this has kind of been addressed. Sorry to beat the horse but it’s getting confusing trying to navigate through all the different listings.
@@HammargrenCues No worries. I have the files that I got on my Google Drive (there is a link in this thread somewhere). Here is the exact unit that I bought: smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B08NSXSYFJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 This is listed as a "DNYSYSJ 6090 4 Axis CNC Router" but the one that I got was labelled from CNCEST. Things to look for before purchasing... 1) USB connectivity: This can be confusing because of a flood of USB boards now and some are Arduino based vs RnR Motion controllers. 2) MACH3 compatibility: This is the software that actually drives the machine after you generate G-Code. This does not work with Arduino based machines, only RnR Motion based machines. And... remember... you can ask the seller questions. I did, extensively, before I spent my money on this. The description of mine has a little bit of contradictory information in it and I needed some clarification.
First things first…. Do you have the same machine? Or, at a minimum, something similar. Does your CNC have a manual/pc selector switch? Switch that to manual. Make sure the knob is all the way to off, or the slowest setting. Press the green “run” button on the VFD. Turn the knob and increase the frequency. If it spins, then the VFD is working. Turn the knob and stop the spindle. Press the stop button in the VFD. Change the switch back to PC control. Press the green run button again. Within Mach3, if configured, you should be able to hit the “Spindle CW” button within the GUI to start the spindle. Hit it again to stop the spindle. ** Note: please make sure you have no loose parts, material, clothing, or body parts near the spindle during this operation. **
Hey there, I just bought one of these and the control box does not turn on at all (I replaced the fuse) is this normal? There is however a red light that’s coming from the machine where the USB port is.
If you have the RnR Motion board in your control box, you may see a light on that board (or emanating from the back of your control box). This board CAN be powered by your PC and does not need an external power supply to be seen or work. I would check the "Device Manager" to see if it shows up or if it is showing an extra piece of hardware being detected.
@@jeffmorlen they sent me the box but they haven’t sent me all the files I need/ would it be possible to get a copy? Also I’m new to this so would I be able to pay you if you have time to help me set it up correctly?
Thank you! I’ll give it a go. Also if you have the time I’d like to pay you to help me go over the initial set up. If you’re busy no worries. Thank you for the content.
@@Justsayin71 I'm happy to help... but without being on-site for a setup, config, testing, and run through... I'm not sure how much help I can be. If you have questions, please feel free to ask.
That's a great question!! From what I found (very quickly) the RnR Motion board, which is what is inside my machine, DOES NOT work with Mach4. You may find a bunch of download sites that tag MACH4 and RNRMOTION, but I have not seen an article or a post on CNC Zone that references this combination working. Of course, if I'm wrong, please post a comment with a link. I'm sure others would be interested too.
I'm about to buy the same machine as yours but I'm in the UK. I'm pretty sure it's an identical machine but it has a different name on it, as you said go on Amazon same machine sold by loads of different people. I've wrote to the company to ask if the machine will run on anything other than Windows 7 or Windows XP. They've come back and said no it has to be those operating systems. Are you running these operating systems or are you on a more modern machine running say Windows 10?
I would ask the seller for any documentation that they have about the machine. Specifically, about Mach3. This will give you some very strong clues as to what you can run. I've seen a couple of systems being sold that use an Arduino vs. the RnR Motion control board. That makes life difficult as you cannot even run Mach3... you need to run an open source version of some control software. So, if you can get some information from them, then that will give you some clues.
@@jeffmorlen I see the Amazon listing you posted for your machine states that it only works with Windows 7 or XP - did you have to make any modifications to be able to use Windows 10?
Very nicely done video. It scares me that there is no manual. I have no experience with CNC but need a machine capable of cutting carbon fiber (tubes that are 100mm diameter). I see this can handle up to 140mm thick. Do you think I should go with a smaller machine even though the specs say 100mm max?? I will say your video is very helpful and you do a good job of presenting. Cheers. Doug
I like to think of myself as a pretty handy guy. So, the manual thing didn't bother me too much. You just need to know that things really only plug in one place. And the screw holes, on mine, lined up, almost, perfect (except on the bent part). As far as doing a 100mm diameter cylinder on there... I guess I would wonder what you'd be CNCing into it. Are you planning on using the 4th axis (sorta a stupid question, but want to make sure)? If you get one and run into issues... shoot me a msg. I'd be happy to help. (I'm getting ready to record the Mach3 installation and configuration... as per their instructions... we'll see how this goes. :) )
@@jeffmorlen do you have a email we can communicate with you I have just purchased the same cnc machine and am watching your video on set up and I do have more questions appreciate you and thanks
Jeff , to get your spindle going you said you made a change from the settings prescribed in the manual...you set something to zero ? And I think you mentioned that change would be in the comments. But I didnt see it. Im still hogtied by this spinde issue.
The VFD settings can be found in the PDF that is now attached to the video description. The PDF is the "VFD settings document (from the 3040 manual)". I hope this helps.
Hi. Looking at these machines myself. Only problem i have with one is they all say only good for windows xp or 7 nomatter where i look. Even google searches i only find people saying thats the drawback of these 6090 machines.. You are showing it set up with a modern laptop and windows 10. Did you have to do anything special to make that happen? Did you change out the control board or do these sellers/people on forums just not even know that these machines work with windows 10? thanks
I did not have to do anything special to get this to work on Windows 10. My CNC (as many are) is using a 3rd party DLL to control the machine. The DLL is from rMotion and uses a USB port vs a parallel/printer port. So, with that said... If you buy the version with the USB port, you can use Windows 10. If you buy the version with the parallel port, you will need Windows 7. Does that make sense?
@@jeffmorlen Hey thanks for the reply. Yes i guess that makes sense. Just don't want to end up with a machine i need an old laptop for. I asked because even the link you posted to the actual purchase you made says only works with windows 7,xp, etc. I wonder how i can be sure i get the same dll/control board you received. I see this same machine for as low as 1900 but something is kind of weird about that. You would think that since most people don't want to have a parallel port old computer that they would make it clear that it will actually work with windows 10 just to get a sale at least. But every listing including your link basically says it won't..
@@jeffmorlen also i wondering where you even saw details on the r&r motion control coming with the machine before purchasing like you said in video. i don't see anything about that on amazon details. thanks
Shawn- If you like, I can go over the stuff in a video for you. The details of some of those postings can be very confusing... especially when the seller just does a copy/paste of some other post. I was also going to go over the installation and setup of Mach3 for use with this machine in a video (but have been very busy). Let me know.
Ron- I don't have the specs for them... but they seem to be pretty light weight. Like, maybe, 280oz/in motors. Many people have replaced their "stock" motors with larger, stronger ones. The benefit is that you will get better speed and better holding strength. So, with that said, I'd say that you can just source a motor from Amazon (or similar). The connectors are industry standard and you can find them on Amazon too (I used to have a link to a bulk pack but cannot find it). I hope that helps.
Might be these... smile.amazon.com/Molex-Micro-Fit-Receptacle-Terminal-sockets/dp/B07H6ZXPNM/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2M9AIQUMRETGR&keywords=micro-fit+3.0mm+single+row&qid=1663597391&s=industrial&sprefix=micro-fit+3.0mm+single+row%2Cindustrial%2C95&sr=1-1
One group said they were JST SM connectors. Here is a link. www.amazon.com/4-Pin-Brass-Terminal-Connector-Female/dp/B01LYYGGED/ref=asc_df_B01LYYGGED/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=226601492573&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15714838303230970531&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9018821&hvtargid=pla-378969788043&psc=1
@@jeffmorlen normal nema 23 3-4A 3Nm motor i see have. what longed motor body have then strong have torque, important not small motor because no torque lose step easy and not can move all axis.
Jeff, I have an engineering background and I commend you on your ability to set this thing up. Your review will definitely make it easier for me if I decide to purchase one. Do you think this router is able to do deep steel engraving, like for small fonts on a firearm? Thanks for everything!
I think the best answer is "maybe". I only say that because it will be all about the speeds and feeds... and a GREAT quality mill to go in it. I think there is a video out there that does have someone doing some engraving in a 1911 with, I think, a 3040CNC (the same but smaller). Sorry I can't be more help... :(
An applitec E330-P-0.05-TiALN (not sure if it was TiALN) engraving endmill going 50mm/min at 8100rpm took about 800w with peaks of 1400w in a vf2 At those speeds and multiple depth passes, it probably can
Hello anyway you can help me get my stepper motors to move I have mach3 installed just can't get the controller to make them move or the arrows on computer
Q: When you use the arrows (up/down/left/right) to move the gantry do the numbers in Mach3 move as if it thinks it is working? If not, is the RESET button (red at bottom left) flashing/blinking? If it is, click on it to set your machine to "enabled" and to clear the emergency stop situation. *** NOTE: When you start Mach3, this is always flashing/blinking. This is a done for safety (i.e., so the machine doesn't just take off and do stuff).
@@jeffmorlen hey bud sorry for the late response had some issues I'm looking to tag you in a video I made so you can have a better idea of my issue thanks.
The only "better" thing about the 6090 vs the 6040 is the size... when talking about the CNC machines from CNCEST. The machine work area is larger on the 6090. Also, not knowing what 6040 you are looking at, there may be more spindle options on the 6090 vs the 6040 as well. Otherwise, they are, usually, a similar machine.
Getting my 4th axis up and running is on my list. But, I'm in Wisconsin (USA)... so we take advantage of any good weather we get (usually 2-3 months of the year... haha)... and I've been spending a lot of time working on engines this summer. I'm hoping to have a quick "Let's get you up and running with your 4th axis" video in a month or two (which may be longer... and I may have started that project more than once already... eek). But, the information that I'll try to convey will be relatable in many ways. For a taper, like on a pool cue, I can think of some ways to do this in software and a couple ways with just a simple mounting plate/jig. It doesn't have to be complicated to work... right? I'll keep you posted. Thank you for the comments. If you need direct help, please send me an email.
As long as the G-Codes are generic, it should be fine. But, something to keep in mind is that this CNC runs using Mach3, from machsupport.com. This is an older package (as of the time of this comment, they are no longer developing Mach3 and focusing on Mach4) and you get a questionable license with most CNC machines out of C#!n@.
You should start with the seller, the manufacturer is, from what I found, difficult to get a response from. But, the machine is a culmination of readily accessible parts. There really isn't anything "special" about the machine unless you need to replace aluminum parts/plates. Is there a part you need?
Hi Jeff, Nice video! I have a 6040 version of the same brand or at least what's left of it . After 2 years... Solid Al plate bed 25 mm. Y axis15 mm plate with linear rails. Redesign totally of z axis with spindle with bearing block because bearing of stepper motor is used. That sucks. Z axis also linear rails. End switches. Steppers 3Nm with feedback. 36 Volt First nvem controller. Stay away from that. It destroys your machine and then Pokeys 57 that works perfect. 7000 mm/min and 1000 steps per mm all axis. Minimum quantity cooling and compressor. Now it works fine with aluminium.... Have fun, you will learn by doing...
That is AWESOME!! You were able to take an "ok" Chinese machine and make it into what you needed... that's cool. I have hopes of upgrading the steppers, bed, drivers, and add homing switches... but that's down the road. Do you have a RUclips channel or video of your machine? I'd love to see it!
Hi Jeff, Unfortunately I do not. Thinking about it. But I follow everything. I learned a lot from others. Quite a learning curve.. Hours and hours of good ideas. For you connect the extruded al plates e.g. on the bottom with strips for easy stiffness and if Al then use a corner of the machine. Most flexing is in the middle. Z-axis fix the gap. It damages your bits. You can find a video of another owner which uses a cheap bearing for that. And a surfaced offer plate. Maybe 100 euro but it improves a lot. That's what I did in the beginning. Have fun.
Depending on what I'm doing it would be a mix of Google Sketchup (with tons of plug-ins; old version) or Vectric V-Carve (old version). Most of what I do would be considered 2.5D work (meaning Z axis does not really move while doing a cut... just goes to a depth and cuts there).
Yes, you can mill non-ferrous metals with it. It is rigid enough for aluminum, however, it is also made of mostly aluminum... so you will get some flex if you push it too hard. There are a couple of videos where guys are using 6040s to do aluminum... which may give you better luck due to the smaller size. Otherwise you could always retrofit a Sieg X2 or something for metal as well.
@@domenicocoluccelli5734 The only reason that a 6040 may be better for aluminum is because it is smaller with the same spindle/VFD. Meaning, there isn't as much a span in the gantry and thus less flex/deflection. That's the one thing that you will see over and over from 6090 folks... flex in the gantry assembly.
Is this a brand new unit? If so, I'd contact the mfg or seller to work out a replacement spindle or VFD. If not, when did it work last? Do you us it "manually" via the VFD or is it controlled by Mach3?
I liked the video. I have the same machine at my work I have to set up. I got it built and spindle turns but can’t get the gantry to move in x,y, or z. Any help would be appreciated.
I don't sell these units. I purchased mine from Amazon.com. You would have to locate a vendor in your region or from someplace like Amazon.com or AliExpress.com. Sorry.
and is it a fact the max feed rate in stock configuration is only 60ipm?.. if so thats extremely slow compared to most other home hobby cnc....has anyone done 70 80 100ipm with this machine?
Yes... by comparison to $10000 machines, it is slow. By comparison to $5000 it is slow. But, it is only $2000ish... and you get what you pay for. If someone were interested and handy, they could upgrade all the components (electrical: steppers, drivers, couplers, etc) they could make the machine move very quickly. Not to mention, some of the "fast" machines are rack/pinion or belt drive. That makes a huge difference too.
ok i see u tried going faster than 60ipm and steps lost...more than likely its due to the stepper drivers because i believe i have similar stepper motors on my crapcarve cnc and i can easily do 100ipm although the weight of your gantry may be a bit much for the stepper motors.too ..your motors are prob just 280oz which are ok but underpowered for that cnc ...and having only 1 weak y stepper is s weakness in design.....a much larger y motor would be best...plus a 24v 10A power supply seems a bit weak ......60ipm is very very slow especially when machining plastics acrylics....especially if u cant run the spindle below 10krpm......i thought vfd spindles can be run at much lower rpm?.....it does seem like a good cnc as is but definitely manufacturer could and should improve it to make it a much better cnc...its like a tank with a honda civic motor lol.
The issue that you face with running a VFD at a lower speed is that it will consume higher amperage to maintain that speed as the cutter has to work harder to move through the material. Thus, you also tend to heat the system up in doing so as well. I have had overheat issues with mine after extended cutting times. It is perfect... no. Does it work... yes. I don't run my spindle much below 14000 for standard router bits.
this machine have uses 20mm non supported SBR linear rails y axis this mean not strong cutting aluminium, but can change less than 300$ supported SBR linear rails. and have weak small Nm torque motors need change normal cnc user 112mm long nema 23 motors 3Nm or more. controll box include 10$ 4 axis breakoutboard and DM 542 small motor drivers, same can change better DM 556 motor drivers and biggest nema23 45A 3-5Nm motors. lot better whit aluminium cut.
Actually... this unit uses fully supported on the Y axis and unsupported on the X axis. The stepper motors, I believe, are 2Nm or less... which is a little under powered for this unit. I will be changing them in the future. I use DM542 drivers on my other CNC machines, but I have not opened this box in a bit... and don't recall what is in there.
same machine aliexpress have 2000$-3500$ many seller, only frame, not motors, not controller box cost 1000$ mach3 controller card 10-20$ 4-5axis and motors can buy less than 300$
If you wanted to... you could build a 6090 with the motors, controller, VFD, and screws that you desire. The option, on Amazon, is just a quick way to get into this type of machine without having to source all the parts.
mach3 has good beginner but not safety and good pro, not realtime, dangerous if not have, not easy make own tool help files, not easy made additional axis,etc,code,makro etc, linuxcnc workig true realtime lot safety than windows base mach3 and can lot lot lot make own tools,softawares,makros,hall fles etc tool changer automation etc. linuxcnc have flexible make lot new all what u want. mach3 not can make all. but mach3 have easy to beginner cnc use littletime.
Mach3 vs. Linux CNC is a discussion I'm willing to have. I've used both, extensively, but feel that Mach3 is easier to customize and works with a wider array of hardware. That's why I use it vs. Linux CNC at this time.
I'd be interested to find out why you didn't like your 6090 CNC router. It has many benefits over a Shapeoko, price being the main one ($2000 vs. $4200). Of course, I'd be happy to take your 6090 off your hands... :)
Jeff, thank you!!! This company ought to pay you for these videos. Machine is great!
Glad you like them!
I was looking for a CNC router that can cut aluminum front panels (1 or 2mm thick). The other routers on amazon seem to have problems with aluminum but now I see this one on video this looks like a bit of overkill. This machine is huge. Great that you posted this video!
Yes, you can cut 1-2mm thick aluminum on this unit. You will need to watch your feeds and speeds for the material you are looking to cut. But yes you can cut it.
One thing to note...
This machine is made of aluminum. So there is flex in the gantry and Z axis.
Thanks for the silent movie. I'm grateful it was in color
Oh no!! You didn't have any sound?? I'm sorry, the video (I just re-checked it) does have audio.
Maybe try a different browser?! :(
I got one of these Chinese machine, too. It's not advised to start the spindle at high speed as this will shorten the life span of the bearing. Start at 3000rpm and increase for every 3-5 minutes. This will help the lubrication on the bearing. If you have more budget, you can upgrade the bearing on spindle. With 4 bearings, the noise will decrease.
Thank you for your comment... but, I disagree. The VFD, within the control box, will ramp up the speed on its own. And every 3-5 minutes will make it take a long time to get up to speed. However, 3000RPM, as per the specs on the spindle/VFD, will cause issues of its own. The minimum speed, for the 2.2KW spindle, is 10000RPM (as per the vendor). At 3000RPM, due to how a VFD works, could cause the VFD to overheat.
That's my $0.02.
@@jeffmorlen Well, the Chinese vendor of the spindle told me about this. It depends on the lubrication they implemented for the bearing. I think most Chinese spindles are the same type.
Who is the vendor of the Chinese spindle? Mine is not marked in a manner to determine who the made it... so, could be the same or it could be different. If you have information, and care to share, let me know and I'll host it for everyone. Thanks!
Jeff - I’ve had my 6090 for a little over 4 years now (same brand). Done a lot of work with it and mostly using “VCarve” for my CAM Software. All that being said I’ve also had numerous issues with it - overheating, have had to rewire the x and z axis, and now the touch plate won’t work. It’s good that I enjoy tinkering with it as much as I do - I guess it’s called a hobby CNC for a reason! I enjoyed watching your video .
Thanks Jim! Is there anything you want me to tackle?? I'm working on the 4th axis stuff now.
Hi Jeff i have brought this same machine and having a hard time getting it to run with the software, i got the machine running manually, unable to get those download they send to work is it possible to give some guidance please,
Thank you for a well put together video. You are a champion.
Glad you enjoyed it!
I got my6090 on ebay ordered last week for $1300 im thinking it was a mistake but there still offering same price and shipping was free and got here fast
For $1300 the machine is worth it. If you need any help, please let me know.
Hey Jeff, I know this is 3 years old, but I wanted to let you know that I worked with a couple that has one of these machines. I know Mach3 pretty well, but these china machines throw convention out the window. While working with them, trying to get their machine running I kept referring back to this video for the ports and pins settings. So thank you for taking the time to make the video. It allowed me to help them get their machine up and moving. Running? Not so much yet, but that will come. Again thank you for the vid. By chance, do you have the link for the files on the touch off tool probe? I did not see the macro in your list.
I added the auto zero script to the channel info page (at the bottom).
I think it is "current" but I have not looked at it in a little bit.
If you use it and have questions, please let me know.
Hello, Jeff. Does the cnc has a driver I need to install on the pc? Or it installs automatically when you plug usb cable to pc?
You install first Mach 3 and then plug the usb? Or viceversa?
And do I need to change settings on Mach 3?
Thanks!
There isn't a driver, for Windows, really. The DLL that you need, for the R&R Motion Controller, is dropped into the plugins directory within Mach3.
As far as settings that need to be changed in Mach3... Yes, TONS. But they should be within the XML file you can get from the mfg. or seller. If you don't have one, I have an XML file for download (check the channel page).
Hi Jeff, I wonder you could help please. I have a similar 6040 router with Mack3 installed. Unfortunately my PC went down, I have repaired the computer and re-installed Mach3. I have all the stepper motors working fine, but I can't get the spindle to run. The spindle on/off button in Mach3 is flashing when I run the program as if I'm cutting, but the spindle is still not moving. I don't have any instructions on the spindle settings for Mach3 so I'm guessing. Do you have a video of setting the spindle in Mach3 or know of the setting I need to use please. Any help would be really appreciated. Thank you for any help you can give, Terry.
You should be able to take the XML file from my download (link in another comment) and use it to configure your machine. It should have all the settings for Mach3 in it.
Thank you for your help, much appreciated.
Keep us updated mate. Thanks for posting. I'm waiting for mine to arrive..
I will!! I'm excited to share what I've learned and hoping that I can answer some questions for others.
@@jeffmorlen can you use a mac book to run this?
@@zachofalltrades1111
The easy answer is no. This is due to the software you get being a Windows based software package (Mach3).
The hard answer is yes. There are two paths you could take with this...
1) You could run Parallels/VirtualBox/VMWare Fusion on your Mac and pass the USB port through to a Windows virtual machine, running Mach3... but I don't know what type of performance you would get.
2) You could strip the RnR Controller out of the VFD housing and replace it with a GRBL based controller. This would give you the ability to run a GRBL sender in place of Mach3.
I'm not sure if either of these options would be worth the time it would take to setup.
You could simply use your Mac for design and then get a cheap-o Windows laptop to run the machine?!
Just a thought.
@@jeffmorlen thanks for the answer I do have a older laptop I could use
Hello Jeff! I recently started working on CNC as part of my undergrad research. I also have this specific model and have seen a few of your videos which I thank you so much for (this model is hard to find any guides on and I can't find a manual online either). Anyways, have you ever gotten an error after milling for about 15-20 minutes and it says e Oh? I am trying to figure out what the problem is because it keeps happening no matter how much I add ice to the water pump or if I add an additional fan to the console. Would very much appreciate your help!
YES!! I have gotten the same error. The error indicates that the VFD has overheated. It is a real pain in the... you know where. I have found a couple people say that they added fans to the control box to keep it cool. I have also found a guy who said that he reversed the fan direction and that helped.
I have gotten it 5-10 times and it is always in the middle of final pass cut (when doing 3D stuff). Mach3 will give you the ability to start at a line number and that is how I handled it (without modification) in the past. Meaning, if you get the 0h error, stop the machine. Document the line number it says it was on and step backwards until it picks up where it left off.
By "step backwards" I mean...
If it errors at line 1800... go back to 1750. If that isn't back far enough, then go back to 1700. I've had luck with this... but, be warned, it is NOT a perfect fix for it.
I hope this helps. Maybe I'll tear my down in a video and show everyone what is really inside... with explanations.
I bought the same machine, just a slightly newer version. How satisfied are you with the machine? I have a problem with the Z-axis, it only moves in the negative direction when I press Z+ on the remote, and even in the program when I enter the command Z+10, it still moves downwards in the negative direction. What could be the problem?
For the work that I do, it is perfect. It hit the price point that I needed, the features that I needed, and the size that I was looking for. For the Z axis only moving down... does it make noise and try to move up? If not, you may have some other parameter in Mach3 backwards... but I wouldn't be able to tell you what without looking at your setup (sorry).
I'm very interested in the 4060Z CNC router. I'm an absolute newbie with CNC routers. I have a couple questions. I will be acquiring it with the 4th axis. I have already acquired a Sculpfun S9 laser. My main purpose is to mount the laser on this machine to checker gun stocks. Sculpfun assured me that it was powerful enough to do this job ( at low production). My question is what components ( ie: 12V power supply, control cable, etc.) what else would I need to make this laser work on these Chinese routers? It was recommended to use Light burn software. Also, I want to do round carving with the router - what software would you recommend to transfer drawings, art work etc. - Corel or similar?
I also have a used Legacy Artisan 2'x4' 5 axis machine which I have not plugged in yet or should I use this machine? It was recommended that I learn on a smaller machine, Any help will be much appreciated. Thanks!
Not sure how you are going to mount the laser to that (4060Z) machine. You will need to find a way to trigger the laser to turn it on/off... which is not a function that this/these CNC machines have. So, I'm sure that will be a challenge.
If you don't need the larger format... I'd almost recommend a K40 laser instead.
hola que bueno yo también estoy pensando comprarme un enrutador de estos quería preguntarte que tal te a salido la maquina?
Mi enrutador funcionó bien, para mí. Lo uso para hacer letreros y piezas 2D (principalmente). Pero, por el costo, creo que es una buena inversión.
All of these (this style) are made by CNCEST. Most of the pages on eBay state that they are unbranded. I just bought a 6040. Need to make a bench for it and assemble it. That's going to be delayed a few days as my order for the lumber got canceled. Have to redo with different lumber. Pain in the ass. Making it over kill with 4x4s.
Share a picture of the bench when you are done. Mine is just sitting on an old, and very heavy, commercial desk. :)
i think these chinese made 6090 cnc routers are a very good value however how bad is the flex on the aluminium bed?...i see no supports underneath other than at both ends...seems like a severe design flaw...no?
Most people put a spoiler board on top of the aluminum bed. So that stiffens up the bed quite a bit.
You mentioned that there are six limit switches,(2)x,(2)y and (2) z. All in parallel. No home switches. Is this actually the case? Mine doesn't have any Z limits that I can find. I guess it achieves the functions effectively by moving each axis one at a time. I am wondering how this all works, in concert. Haven't started running my 6090 yet. I have purchased, better controllers to redo the whole thing.
I think that that statement was made based off the documentation on Amazon regarding the machine. My machine has no limit switches on the Z Axis either.
As far as homing switches, there aren't any. But you could use limit switches on X and Y to do homing. You'd just need to write the script to do that.
Hi Jeff. What type of connection is that to your pc. I once bought a machine that had LPT and usb. It turned out they pirated someones firmware and pc software. You couldnt update or use usb connection with mach3. In future i need to ask better questions to avoid a repeat.
One thing about some of those cards...
The CNC breakout boards you find with a USB and an LTP (Parallel) port on them usually only use the USB for power. They still require a parallel port connection to move the machine. I've seen several with both ports too and, personally, don't care for them. They always seem to be very low quality.
My CNC breakout board is, probably, a knock off of the R&R Motion controller board. This board uses USB only and does not require a parallel port to run. You do need to install a DLL into your Mach3 folder for it to work, but I've had very few problems with mine.
Feel free to ask me questions... I've been in the CNC space for 10+ years now (personally) and another 10+ doing software setups and first run stuff, professionally, before that.
** I don't do this for my work any longer. It is now just a hobby.
Hello, great video. What is the difference between 6090GZ and 6090Z? You recommend usb or parallel connection? You recommended me to buy 6040 cnc, to learn the process or to buy directly the 6090 cnc, so i can have it forever? I am an engineer, experienced with autocad 2d, and less on fusion 360.
I'm not sure what the difference would be. I've searched for the 6090Z and could not find anything significant. Most of the differences that I noticed were things like limit switch placement and the advertisement of the unit as being made of "steel". Mine, I believe, at the time of the purchase, said it was made of steel too... but most of the larger parts are aluminum with steel screws and covers. Of course the linear rails are polished steel as well.
I hope that helps. Sorry I don't have more information on the differences.
hey Jeff, thanks for all your videos. I just finished putting together my 6090, got it working with Mach3 thanks to your other video, but my Y axis (900mm direction) seems to be binding. I can move the axis by putting pliers on the y axis handwheel, but its fairly difficult to move, and when moving with Mach3 the y axis motor makes a humming noise but doesnt actually move. would you happen to have any ideas? how difficult is it to move your y axis using the handwheel with the machine off?
My Y axis moves pretty easy without the power on. I would think that something is aligned incorrectly or there is something in the way. Alternatively, the linear rails may not be parallel and that could also cause a binding scenario.
You can take the gantry off and still run the machine. I would probably take that off and then remove the bed of the unit. That way you can see what is happening when you try to move it.
Sorry your unit is not working properly. If you cannot get it fixed easily, I would contact the seller and let them know of your issue. They may have some more insight as to what could be causing the issue.
@@jeffmorlen thank you so much for the reply Jeff, I actually found the issue, the y axis motor was damaged in transport, removing the motor allowed me to move the axis freely. I'm in contact with my seller to get a replacement. thanks again for your detailed response and troubleshooting support :)
Would this be sufficient for making wood guitar bodies and necks?
So, there are some things to keep in mind when answering your question.
The working size of the machine is approximately 850mm by 600mm.
The size of a Stratocaster is, about, 307mm by 446mm.
The size of a Telecaster is, about, 324mm by 406mm.
The size of a Gibson Les Paul is, about, 330mm by 440mm.
You can see that this is able to machine the body... being 45mm to 50mm thick.
The neck is the hard part.
The neck is, about, 637mm to 653mm long.
Most have a 14 degree dip at the head.
So, if I were going to make one on this machine... here's how I would do it.
I'd use a fixture to hold the body for the A and B sides of the body.
I'd use reference pins to align it all.
I'd make a jig to hold the neck and only use the machine to cut the rough shape of the neck and head.
After that... it's all blood, sweat and tears!
I wanna do this too (as I sit here next to my four guitars)!!
Good luck!
Hi Jeff, Thank You for your video. I read on Mach 3&4 that a laptop cannot be used. I see that you are using a laptop just fine. Is there something that I am missing with that?
Sorry for the delay.
Yes, the documentation, for Mach3 and Mach4 does indicate that you should not use a laptop. So there is that... but... you can if you use USB (it seems to me) to communicate with your stepper driver controller board... like the RnR Motion in the 6090.
So, to be "safe" I would say that you should not run Mach3 or Mach4 on a laptop to control your router. But, just like everything else, your experience may vary from what is recommended vs. what works for you. Personally, I'd be worried about the laptop stopping the job part way through or something.
If you watch a lot of CNC videos on RUclips... a lot of people run Mach3 on a laptop... but, like I said, your experience may be different.
Hope that helps... even though it is sorta a non-answer answer.
I have the 6090 machine USB and can only get motion on the XYZ but no spindle control in Mach 3. Also the supplied USB hand held controller suffers the same condition. I have installed the rnr motion dll into the plugins folder...along with license file. but no luck. I also seek knowledge about scanning an image and cutting out the shape. (In my case wood mouldings...from which to cut a template and subsequently grind the knives from that template to reproduce the original scanned sample.) .
I have heard of issues, just like yours, from some owners of the Chinese 6090GZ CNC machines. It seems that some vendors DO NOT connect the motion controller to the VFD and require you to control it manually. However, there are a couple things we can do to check this out...
Can you get the spindle to spin using the control panel on the control box?
Here is a link to a PDF that I made about testing your spindle.
1drv.ms/b/s!AgxiwVost-OPi4ES7Ug-cm8Gwsr11Q?e=HW9JYY
Try this and let me know.
Hey Jeff I have the same machine and programming. And all I can get it do is the router will turn on that's it.
Nothing else will not move. Any help hints. It won't move in computer mode or manually mode
I'm happy to help you. Please look at my page details for an email address you can use to contact me. From there we can setup some time via Zoom/Teams/other for me to give you a hand.
Just picked up one of these for myself and will make a great little addition to the Laser cutter/engraver in the workshop.
Thanks for taking the time going through the setup.. The Spindle one was the killer for me so thanks :)
Off to look at the Tool Zeroing now and making an adapter for the vacuum 😁
Shane- I'm glad you like the video. It was my first try at something like this. If you have any questions, as you progress with your 6090, let me know. I'd be happy to help.
Thanks for the video, Jeff...
I've had my eye on the 6090s for a while now and pulled the trigger after watching your setup.
The lack of instructions was holding me back and rightfully so as now that I have one (same unit you have in the video), I am still quite lost as far as setting up the VFD and Mach3.
* Not sure it the VFD was supposed to have an initial setup or not but mine doesn't seem to follow any of the settings I have found.
Could really use the settings.
* If I understand correctly, Mach is going to need axis motor pin information, is this something you figured out.
David- You will need to contact the seller about what settings your VFD needs. I have a document that outlines all the settings that can be set on it. Keep in mind that this is for MY VFD and it may not be the same as yours. You can find it here: ( 1drv.ms/b/s!AgxiwVost-OPi4EGSgTsIGiy0xF8RQ?e=g1ym85 )
As far as pin configuration, my CNC has an USB RnR Motion stepper controller. I'm not sure what yours has. Where did you buy it? What does it look like? Is it a parallel port version (old) or a USB version (new)? Did yours come with a CD? It may have all your settings and configuration information on it.
I can say this...
Before you make any changes to your VFD, try to run it manually. If your CNC is the same as mine, you should be able to power on the system, turn the PC/Manual switch to manual, press RUN, and then turn the knob to start the spindle.
If you have a link to what you bought, I will take a look and give you my thoughts.
Just got a 6040gz and hoping this will help me getting it going. I got the spindle turning in manual, and downloaded mach 3 on a windows 7 with USB, but cant get nothing to move.
Is yours USB or Parallel? Did it come with a CD or USB stick? If you have a link to where you purchased it, I can take a look. Some of these are now using GRBL controllers vs. RnR Motion controllers... so, there may be clues in the product description.
HI Jeff, thank you for the great video! I'm really interested in this router but want to put a dust hood on the bottom of the spindle. What is the diameter of the spindle motor? Did you ever use a dust hood with your unit?
I have a whole video on the dust shoe that I adapted for this machine.
Hey Jeff,
looking to buy similar machine from ebay .
just curious for the travel disnatnce of the axes , do you have any intel on this ?
Need at least 150mm in Z- axe for my purpose of use .
Grts , thx in advance
Davy-
Unfortunately, the distance between the aluminum bed and the bottom of the gantry is only, 4 9/16". I have a pic that shows this if you need confirmation. Sorry.
This video of yours has been like the light to start understanding the machine, but I have a question, how can I check the vertical axis of the machine once I have it connected to the computer
The vertical axis (the Z axis) can be controlled, in Mach3, with the Page UP and Page DOWN keys on the keyboard. If connected properly, and the software is working, this should show you movement of your Z axis.
(You do need to click on the RESET button within Mach3 before movement can be done)
@@jeffmorlen Thanks a Lot, your video is AMAZING
Thank you Victor. Let me know if there is something you need/want me to cover in a video or "quick clip".
do you know where I can get that driver software? I didnt get anything software or files with my machine.
I have links to the software bundle in my channel description and on many of the videos. They are links to my OneDrive account.
** NOTE: I did not include any licensing with these files. You will need to provide your own Mach3 license if you choose to use Mach3.
Can you show the motor input / output setting in Mach3 and was there a link to VFT settings
Unfortunately I cannot just paste an image here.
However, I saved one for you in my Google drive.
1drv.ms/b/s!AgxiwVost-OPi4EGSgTsIGiy0xF8RQ?e=g1ym85
does the controller box come with any software or you have to use MAch3?
To be honest... the system does not come with a USB stick or CD/DVD or anything. I needed to contact the seller to get the software that works with it.
That ZIP file (you can find attached to my channel) contains the RnR Motion Controller driver, Mach3, and some PDF files.
If the version of this unit you buy has something other than the RnR Motion Controller board, then you'd need to use what you can get from the vendor.
Please note: My machine will not work with any type of Arduino CNC controller board software, LinuxCNC, Mach4, or other 3rd party software. My unit will only work with Mach3.
Thanks Jeff. I am considering getting either a 6040 or 6090 and your videos are greatly appreciated, as I am completely new to the CNC world, other than lasers. Quick question - I actually want a 6040 but I noticed that none of them that I see have limit switches. Do you think this would be a huge annoyance with everyday usage?
It's different for everyone. I know that before I had this CNC machine I had a smaller one that didn't come with limit switches. I did add them, in the long run, but after 8 years of using it without.
It mostly comes down to knowing your machine and knowing that the project will fit in the space you have defined. If you are going to push the limits, as in the size, of the machine... you will probably benefit from limit switches.
If everything you are planning on doing (in the near future) is quite a bit smaller than the machines size, you probably won't benefit from having them.
I hope that this makes sense. Let me know if you have any more questions.
@@jeffmorlen Thanks man. I think I'm just so used to having limit switches on my laser because it homes itself every time on startup and if those limit switches weren't there then it would just repeatedly crash itself into the side. I guess I can get used to not having them on the router, with a different mind set. It's odd that you can't even find a 6040 with limit switches (and no ports for them on the back of the VFD box).
I removed them from my proverxl 4030, after you have practiced you can do without them
Question how do you like it ? Is it worth the money ? Can you cut hardwood with it ? Is this the 6090 model? I do woodworking as well have been looking at much heavier models from China. Like about 500 lbs . But if this can do what I need it would be a lot cheaper and a whole lot easier to get
Yes, I do like it. So far I've cut standard plywood, MDF, poplar, aspen, pine, walnut, ash and oak. It does well in each... but you will want to spend some money on good bits.
One thing to look at is the math on the wattage of the spindle... they claim 2.2kw... but the math doesn't add up to that amount of power.
Another is, that when digging into these CNC machines, you need to look at things like "how fast are the rapids?"
I bring this point up because, on this model, without any changes to drivers or steppers, I'm limited to, about, 1500mm/min.
Anything more than that and you start to run into stepper stutter and you start to loose steps... so, an upgrade is in order... but I'm not sure if that's the stepper driver or the steppers themselves (yet).
So the real question is... "Is this CNC machine worth the $2000-ish you pay for it?"
I would say that it is. It is much better than what I had before (Probotix Fireball V90).
Yes... forgot to mention, this is the 6090 model. Specifically the 6090GZ from CNCEST.
What is the real working surface? Its nog 900 x 600 right?
The real working area is, about, 850mm x 580mm (if memory serves me right).
Hello Jeff. Enjoyed your unboxing vid. In your experience with your machine would you say that it tips the scale in the mill direction or is it strictly a cnc router?
That is a great question. I would say that, due to the construction, it CAN be used to mill soft metals. You can find some people using the 3060 for metal on RUclips. For me, this will be just a CNC Router.
But... it's a great question so let's address some things.
Things that I have found that do not lend it to milling are:
- The VFD does not allow the spindle to go slow enough, at a high torque level, to mill. The VFD and spindle should not be run below 10000RPM. I have found that the VFD overheats if you push it at a low RPM.
- The gantry does have flex in it. But, even when working on a Bridgeport knee mill (manual) you will have flex (usually in the head). But the amount is the issue. The flex of the gantry causes some issues under load and your accuracy will suffer. You will have severe drift in your tooling if you don't have the right feeds/speeds.
- Lack of cooling (by default) make is ill suited to milling. You can/could add a surround and then add liquid cooling for the tool, but, by default, it isn't setup for it.
I hope this helps!!
I have not had a chance to get back in the shop lately... but I hope to have some other videos coming out soon!
@@jeffmorlen I appreciate the prompt and engaging response. Thoughtful of you. As I would like to try my hand at injection molds using aluminum medium, tool tolerances are of grave consideration.
- In regards to the VFD overheating when run below 10000RPM, is it that the internal fan (of the VDF) is not adequate to cool the electrical components or is this behavior indicative of VDF's that are not mill?
- The flex that you mention...the following is a thread/post on how one guy (don't know his name) overcame the issue. I believe his unit to be identical to yours, with modifications to the bed. Although your device is purposed solely for routing perhaps it will be of some value to your other subscribers. ruclips.net/video/ybvUcnKno-E/видео.html
- I would be game to adding a cooling and reclamation...if possible.
Jeff you have been INCREDIBLY helpful. The time and detail you take creating these videos is appreciated...big time. Looking forward to more of your vids coming down the pike!!
Jeff,
I can't thank you enough. I purchased the machine but am completely new. How do the Hold Downs and the C axis work?
Okay... X-Y-Z are the three planes that you work in. A-B-C are usually the auxiliary planes you can use. "A" usually being considered the rotary axis.
Using the hold downs is hard to explain. Think of putting the bold head in the track (table) and then using the other bolt to set the height and the wing nut to tighten it all down... if that makes sense.
I don't have a video on using the rotary axis yet... but am working on it.
@@jeffmorlen Have you tried GSender? I have had no luck. Maybe they are different protocols.
GSender is most likely used with an Arduino based controllers and not with the R&R Motion controller. But, I have not tried it.
Thanks for the video! Definitely helps my decision process. 1 question. I read a lot of people have issues with the machine not coming with driver software. Seems like it can be a nightmare hunting it down. There are so many different models available. Did yours come with it installed? Do you mind showing the exact model # you purchased? Thanks .. just a newbie looking to get a start in cnc world.
Lol I’ve read through comments and see this has kind of been addressed. Sorry to beat the horse but it’s getting confusing trying to navigate through all the different listings.
@@HammargrenCues
No worries. I have the files that I got on my Google Drive (there is a link in this thread somewhere).
Here is the exact unit that I bought: smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B08NSXSYFJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This is listed as a "DNYSYSJ 6090 4 Axis CNC Router" but the one that I got was labelled from CNCEST.
Things to look for before purchasing...
1) USB connectivity: This can be confusing because of a flood of USB boards now and some are Arduino based vs RnR Motion controllers.
2) MACH3 compatibility: This is the software that actually drives the machine after you generate G-Code. This does not work with Arduino based machines, only RnR Motion based machines.
And... remember... you can ask the seller questions. I did, extensively, before I spent my money on this. The description of mine has a little bit of contradictory information in it and I needed some clarification.
im in the nightmare is there any help out there
How i can just start my spindle ? With mach3
First things first…. Do you have the same machine? Or, at a minimum, something similar.
Does your CNC have a manual/pc selector switch?
Switch that to manual. Make sure the knob is all the way to off, or the slowest setting. Press the green “run” button on the VFD. Turn the knob and increase the frequency. If it spins, then the VFD is working. Turn the knob and stop the spindle. Press the stop button in the VFD.
Change the switch back to PC control. Press the green run button again. Within Mach3, if configured, you should be able to hit the “Spindle CW” button within the GUI to start the spindle. Hit it again to stop the spindle.
** Note: please make sure you have no loose parts, material, clothing, or body parts near the spindle during this operation. **
Hey there, I just bought one of these and the control box does not turn on at all (I replaced the fuse) is this normal? There is however a red light that’s coming from the machine where the USB port is.
If you have the RnR Motion board in your control box, you may see a light on that board (or emanating from the back of your control box). This board CAN be powered by your PC and does not need an external power supply to be seen or work. I would check the "Device Manager" to see if it shows up or if it is showing an extra piece of hardware being detected.
@@jeffmorlen they sent me the box but they haven’t sent me all the files I need/ would it be possible to get a copy? Also I’m new to this so would I be able to pay you if you have time to help me set it up correctly?
Others have had the same issue. Here is a link to the files (minus the license file for Mach3): 1drv.ms/u/s!AgxiwVost-OPi4EFwXbQM1FP9K8deg?e=HRAAtd
Thank you! I’ll give it a go. Also if you have the time I’d like to pay you to help me go over the initial set up. If you’re busy no worries. Thank you for the content.
@@Justsayin71 I'm happy to help... but without being on-site for a setup, config, testing, and run through... I'm not sure how much help I can be.
If you have questions, please feel free to ask.
Looking to buy this CNC.
Will it work with Mach4?
That's a great question!! From what I found (very quickly) the RnR Motion board, which is what is inside my machine, DOES NOT work with Mach4. You may find a bunch of download sites that tag MACH4 and RNRMOTION, but I have not seen an article or a post on CNC Zone that references this combination working.
Of course, if I'm wrong, please post a comment with a link. I'm sure others would be interested too.
I'm about to buy the same machine as yours but I'm in the UK. I'm pretty sure it's an identical machine but it has a different name on it, as you said go on Amazon same machine sold by loads of different people. I've wrote to the company to ask if the machine will run on anything other than Windows 7 or Windows XP. They've come back and said no it has to be those operating systems. Are you running these operating systems or are you on a more modern machine running say Windows 10?
I would ask the seller for any documentation that they have about the machine. Specifically, about Mach3. This will give you some very strong clues as to what you can run.
I've seen a couple of systems being sold that use an Arduino vs. the RnR Motion control board. That makes life difficult as you cannot even run Mach3... you need to run an open source version of some control software.
So, if you can get some information from them, then that will give you some clues.
Oh... and I run Windows 10 + Mach3 on the control PC.
@@jeffmorlen I see the Amazon listing you posted for your machine states that it only works with Windows 7 or XP - did you have to make any modifications to be able to use Windows 10?
Thank you
You're welcome
Hey bud any instructions on installing 4th axis
I'm not there yet... but, as soon as I head down that path... I'll be recording it.
My 4th axis (A) hasn't even made it out of the box yet. :(
I am hoping to venture down this path this winter (and it is snowing today... so, maybe sooner than later).
@@jeffmorlen thx man lol appreciate it
Very nicely done video. It scares me that there is no manual. I have no experience with CNC but need a machine capable of cutting carbon fiber (tubes that are 100mm diameter). I see this can handle up to 140mm thick. Do you think I should go with a smaller machine even though the specs say 100mm max?? I will say your video is very helpful and you do a good job of presenting. Cheers. Doug
I like to think of myself as a pretty handy guy. So, the manual thing didn't bother me too much. You just need to know that things really only plug in one place. And the screw holes, on mine, lined up, almost, perfect (except on the bent part).
As far as doing a 100mm diameter cylinder on there... I guess I would wonder what you'd be CNCing into it. Are you planning on using the 4th axis (sorta a stupid question, but want to make sure)?
If you get one and run into issues... shoot me a msg. I'd be happy to help.
(I'm getting ready to record the Mach3 installation and configuration... as per their instructions... we'll see how this goes. :) )
@@jeffmorlen do you have a email we can communicate with you I have just purchased the same cnc machine and am watching your video on set up and I do have more questions appreciate you and thanks
@@andregunther4200
My address is in the channel's about page.
Jeff , to get your spindle going you said you made a change from the settings prescribed in the manual...you set something to zero ? And I think you mentioned that change would be in the comments. But I didnt see it. Im still hogtied by this spinde issue.
The VFD settings can be found in the PDF that is now attached to the video description. The PDF is the "VFD settings document (from the 3040 manual)". I hope this helps.
Look at page 21 for the recommended settings from the 3040 manual. You will need to read the manual to figure out how to change these though. Sorry!
Also look at this video.
ruclips.net/video/tRf4VpMzthc/видео.html
Hi. Looking at these machines myself. Only problem i have with one is they all say only good for windows xp or 7 nomatter where i look. Even google searches i only find people saying thats the drawback of these 6090 machines.. You are showing it set up with a modern laptop and windows 10. Did you have to do anything special to make that happen? Did you change out the control board or do these sellers/people on forums just not even know that these machines work with windows 10? thanks
I did not have to do anything special to get this to work on Windows 10.
My CNC (as many are) is using a 3rd party DLL to control the machine.
The DLL is from rMotion and uses a USB port vs a parallel/printer port.
So, with that said...
If you buy the version with the USB port, you can use Windows 10.
If you buy the version with the parallel port, you will need Windows 7.
Does that make sense?
@@jeffmorlen Hey thanks for the reply. Yes i guess that makes sense. Just don't want to end up with a machine i need an old laptop for. I asked because even the link you posted to the actual purchase you made says only works with windows 7,xp, etc. I wonder how i can be sure i get the same dll/control board you received. I see this same machine for as low as 1900 but something is kind of weird about that. You would think that since most people don't want to have a parallel port old computer that they would make it clear that it will actually work with windows 10 just to get a sale at least. But every listing including your link basically says it won't..
@@jeffmorlen also i wondering where you even saw details on the r&r motion control coming with the machine before purchasing like you said in video. i don't see anything about that on amazon details. thanks
Shawn-
If you like, I can go over the stuff in a video for you.
The details of some of those postings can be very confusing... especially when the seller just does a copy/paste of some other post.
I was also going to go over the installation and setup of Mach3 for use with this machine in a video (but have been very busy).
Let me know.
Jeff, do have the specs for the stepper motor. I need to replace my Z axis motor
Ron-
I don't have the specs for them... but they seem to be pretty light weight. Like, maybe, 280oz/in motors. Many people have replaced their "stock" motors with larger, stronger ones. The benefit is that you will get better speed and better holding strength.
So, with that said, I'd say that you can just source a motor from Amazon (or similar). The connectors are industry standard and you can find them on Amazon too (I used to have a link to a bulk pack but cannot find it).
I hope that helps.
I believe the connectors they use are "Micro-Fit 3.0mm" male and female. You can find them on AliExpress or Amazon.
Might be these...
smile.amazon.com/Molex-Micro-Fit-Receptacle-Terminal-sockets/dp/B07H6ZXPNM/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2M9AIQUMRETGR&keywords=micro-fit+3.0mm+single+row&qid=1663597391&s=industrial&sprefix=micro-fit+3.0mm+single+row%2Cindustrial%2C95&sr=1-1
One group said they were JST SM connectors. Here is a link.
www.amazon.com/4-Pin-Brass-Terminal-Connector-Female/dp/B01LYYGGED/ref=asc_df_B01LYYGGED/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=226601492573&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15714838303230970531&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9018821&hvtargid=pla-378969788043&psc=1
@@jeffmorlen normal nema 23 3-4A 3Nm motor i see have. what longed motor body have then strong have torque, important not small motor because no torque lose step easy and not can move all axis.
Jeff, I have an engineering background and I commend you on your ability to set this thing up. Your review will definitely make it easier for me if I decide to purchase one. Do you think this router is able to do deep steel engraving, like for small fonts on a firearm? Thanks for everything!
I think the best answer is "maybe". I only say that because it will be all about the speeds and feeds... and a GREAT quality mill to go in it. I think there is a video out there that does have someone doing some engraving in a 1911 with, I think, a 3040CNC (the same but smaller).
Sorry I can't be more help... :(
An applitec E330-P-0.05-TiALN (not sure if it was TiALN) engraving endmill going 50mm/min at 8100rpm took about 800w with peaks of 1400w in a vf2
At those speeds and multiple depth passes, it probably can
Hello anyway you can help me get my stepper motors to move I have mach3 installed just can't get the controller to make them move or the arrows on computer
Does your installation of Mach3 see the RnR Motion controller? Let me know.
@@jeffmorlen yes because it can operate some of the functions
Q: When you use the arrows (up/down/left/right) to move the gantry do the numbers in Mach3 move as if it thinks it is working?
If not, is the RESET button (red at bottom left) flashing/blinking? If it is, click on it to set your machine to "enabled" and to clear the emergency stop situation.
*** NOTE: When you start Mach3, this is always flashing/blinking. This is a done for safety (i.e., so the machine doesn't just take off and do stuff).
@@jeffmorlen hey bud sorry for the late response had some issues I'm looking to tag you in a video I made so you can have a better idea of my issue thanks.
ruclips.net/video/YyhJYwSg_Rs/видео.html hey this is the video I uploaded trying to explain my issue please check it out and help me thanks very much
how much do you pay for that machine?
My cost, through Amazon, was $2550 (I believe). You can still get a unit like this for, about, $1900.
howdy is this better than 6040?i plan to make inlays on pool cues and engraving....
The only "better" thing about the 6090 vs the 6040 is the size... when talking about the CNC machines from CNCEST. The machine work area is larger on the 6090. Also, not knowing what 6040 you are looking at, there may be more spindle options on the 6090 vs the 6040 as well. Otherwise, they are, usually, a similar machine.
@jeffmorlen if you make a tutorial on hoe to extend bed to say cut or taper something up to 32 inches between centers that be awesome!
Getting my 4th axis up and running is on my list. But, I'm in Wisconsin (USA)... so we take advantage of any good weather we get (usually 2-3 months of the year... haha)... and I've been spending a lot of time working on engines this summer.
I'm hoping to have a quick "Let's get you up and running with your 4th axis" video in a month or two (which may be longer... and I may have started that project more than once already... eek).
But, the information that I'll try to convey will be relatable in many ways.
For a taper, like on a pool cue, I can think of some ways to do this in software and a couple ways with just a simple mounting plate/jig. It doesn't have to be complicated to work... right?
I'll keep you posted. Thank you for the comments.
If you need direct help, please send me an email.
Oh btw I have Gcodes ,I also had a 10k cnc just fr cues but it got sold and now I'm into buying a 1600 cnc ,so I figuere just load gcodes and send it
As long as the G-Codes are generic, it should be fine. But, something to keep in mind is that this CNC runs using Mach3, from machsupport.com.
This is an older package (as of the time of this comment, they are no longer developing Mach3 and focusing on Mach4) and you get a questionable license with most CNC machines out of C#!n@.
how to contact the company for parts please..
You should start with the seller, the manufacturer is, from what I found, difficult to get a response from. But, the machine is a culmination of readily accessible parts. There really isn't anything "special" about the machine unless you need to replace aluminum parts/plates.
Is there a part you need?
Hi Jeff,
Nice video!
I have a 6040 version of the same brand or at least what's left of it .
After 2 years... Solid Al plate bed 25 mm. Y axis15 mm plate with linear rails. Redesign totally of z axis with spindle with bearing block because bearing of stepper motor is used. That sucks. Z axis also linear rails. End switches. Steppers 3Nm with feedback. 36 Volt First nvem controller. Stay away from that. It destroys your machine and then Pokeys 57 that works perfect. 7000 mm/min and 1000 steps per mm all axis.
Minimum quantity cooling and compressor.
Now it works fine with aluminium....
Have fun, you will learn by doing...
That is AWESOME!! You were able to take an "ok" Chinese machine and make it into what you needed... that's cool. I have hopes of upgrading the steppers, bed, drivers, and add homing switches... but that's down the road.
Do you have a RUclips channel or video of your machine? I'd love to see it!
Hi Jeff,
Unfortunately I do not. Thinking about it. But I follow everything. I learned a lot from others. Quite a learning curve.. Hours and hours of good ideas. For you connect the extruded al plates e.g. on the bottom with strips for easy stiffness and if Al then use a corner of the machine. Most flexing is in the middle. Z-axis fix the gap. It damages your bits. You can find a video of another owner which uses a cheap bearing for that. And a surfaced offer plate. Maybe 100 euro but it improves a lot. That's what I did in the beginning.
Have fun.
what software for design?
Depending on what I'm doing it would be a mix of Google Sketchup (with tons of plug-ins; old version) or Vectric V-Carve (old version).
Most of what I do would be considered 2.5D work (meaning Z axis does not really move while doing a cut... just goes to a depth and cuts there).
Is it good for processing aluminum?
Yes, you can mill non-ferrous metals with it. It is rigid enough for aluminum, however, it is also made of mostly aluminum... so you will get some flex if you push it too hard. There are a couple of videos where guys are using 6040s to do aluminum... which may give you better luck due to the smaller size. Otherwise you could always retrofit a Sieg X2 or something for metal as well.
It is meglii a 6040 for aluminum. Do you think so
@@domenicocoluccelli5734 Huh? "meglii"?
Sorry. "it is better 6040 for alluminium
@@domenicocoluccelli5734
The only reason that a 6040 may be better for aluminum is because it is smaller with the same spindle/VFD. Meaning, there isn't as much a span in the gantry and thus less flex/deflection. That's the one thing that you will see over and over from 6090 folks... flex in the gantry assembly.
Better to get the machine rewired and change the mach3 board to the arduino board with usb connection .
Jeff I have the same cnc and can't get the spindle to rotate.
Is this a brand new unit? If so, I'd contact the mfg or seller to work out a replacement spindle or VFD.
If not, when did it work last? Do you us it "manually" via the VFD or is it controlled by Mach3?
@@jeffmorlen I finally got it to work after they sent me the setup instructions.
@@jeffmorlen Great packaging huh, mine came damaged the first time.
What did they tell you about the spindle noise? Mine has the same noise.
I told them it sounded like a bearing and they sent me a new spindle. With that said, at higher RPM I didn’t have the noise, only in the mid-range.
can anybody guess the weight? it say 320lb but that seems high....is it really that heavy? or misprint?
As a complete unit, in the box, it is, about, 200lbs total. I wanna say that the shipping label said 173lbs.
I liked the video. I have the same machine at my work I have to set up. I got it built and spindle turns but can’t get the gantry to move in x,y, or z. Any help would be appreciated.
Does Mach3 see an RnRMotion control card? Do you have the DLL for the RnRMotion controller card in the plugins folder for Mach3?
Buenas tardes
Que precio tiene y si tienes envío a Colombia .
I don't sell these units. I purchased mine from Amazon.com. You would have to locate a vendor in your region or from someplace like Amazon.com or AliExpress.com. Sorry.
and is it a fact the max feed rate in stock configuration is only 60ipm?..
if so thats extremely slow compared to most other home hobby cnc....has anyone done 70 80 100ipm with this machine?
Yes... by comparison to $10000 machines, it is slow. By comparison to $5000 it is slow. But, it is only $2000ish... and you get what you pay for. If someone were interested and handy, they could upgrade all the components (electrical: steppers, drivers, couplers, etc) they could make the machine move very quickly. Not to mention, some of the "fast" machines are rack/pinion or belt drive. That makes a huge difference too.
I need one
It's addictive!! But, if you need help finding one, let me know. I'm happy to help.
@@jeffmorlen is the Machine well built and worth getting I have my eye on this one but was a little lire of machine from China an lack of support
I wish you would not shoot your video in portrait mode. Makes for very small view on the screen. Otherwise, thanks for making the video.
Yeah… sorry about that. I was using my phone at the time. I’m trying to get better.
ok i see u tried going faster than 60ipm and steps lost...more than likely its due to the stepper drivers because i believe i have similar stepper motors on my crapcarve cnc and i can easily do 100ipm although the weight of your gantry may be a bit much for the stepper motors.too ..your motors are prob just 280oz which are ok but underpowered for that cnc ...and having only 1 weak y stepper is s weakness in design.....a much larger y motor would be best...plus a 24v 10A power supply seems a bit weak ......60ipm is very very slow especially when machining plastics acrylics....especially if u cant run the spindle below 10krpm......i thought vfd spindles can be run at much lower rpm?.....it does seem like a good cnc as is but definitely manufacturer could and should improve it to make it a much better cnc...its like a tank with a honda civic motor lol.
The issue that you face with running a VFD at a lower speed is that it will consume higher amperage to maintain that speed as the cutter has to work harder to move through the material. Thus, you also tend to heat the system up in doing so as well. I have had overheat issues with mine after extended cutting times.
It is perfect... no. Does it work... yes.
I don't run my spindle much below 14000 for standard router bits.
this machine have uses 20mm non supported SBR linear rails y axis this mean not strong cutting aluminium, but can change less than 300$ supported SBR linear rails. and have weak small Nm torque motors need change normal cnc user 112mm long nema 23 motors 3Nm or more. controll box include 10$ 4 axis breakoutboard and DM 542 small motor drivers, same can change better DM 556 motor drivers and biggest nema23 45A 3-5Nm motors. lot better whit aluminium cut.
Actually... this unit uses fully supported on the Y axis and unsupported on the X axis. The stepper motors, I believe, are 2Nm or less... which is a little under powered for this unit. I will be changing them in the future. I use DM542 drivers on my other CNC machines, but I have not opened this box in a bit... and don't recall what is in there.
same machine aliexpress have 2000$-3500$ many seller, only frame, not motors, not controller box cost 1000$ mach3 controller card 10-20$ 4-5axis and motors can buy less than 300$
If you wanted to... you could build a 6090 with the motors, controller, VFD, and screws that you desire. The option, on Amazon, is just a quick way to get into this type of machine without having to source all the parts.
mach3 has good beginner but not safety and good pro, not realtime, dangerous if not have, not easy make own tool help files, not easy made additional axis,etc,code,makro etc, linuxcnc workig true realtime lot safety than windows base mach3 and can lot lot lot make own tools,softawares,makros,hall fles etc tool changer automation etc. linuxcnc have flexible make lot new all what u want. mach3 not can make all. but mach3 have easy to beginner cnc use littletime.
Mach3 vs. Linux CNC is a discussion I'm willing to have. I've used both, extensively, but feel that Mach3 is easier to customize and works with a wider array of hardware. That's why I use it vs. Linux CNC at this time.
This machine was the biggest piece of crap ever made, I wound up trashing it and buying a shapeoko 5 pro. Don't and I say don't buy this garbage.
I'd be interested to find out why you didn't like your 6090 CNC router. It has many benefits over a Shapeoko, price being the main one ($2000 vs. $4200). Of course, I'd be happy to take your 6090 off your hands... :)