I bought the same machine off ebay but without the 4th axis.$1150 delivered. The instructions are great compared to the one I received. You can download a demo of mach from the website with updates i would recommend that. Don't want to look like a know it all but here are some suggestions. Go to harbor freight or ebay buy a medium sized aquarium pump put it in a 5 gallon bucket with a lid add a little anti freeze it will cool and never lose its prime As far as rust do you have a dryer in your garage? is it vented properly? even if it is dryers can be an issue. or your just in a high humidity location? The lid needs to be on the control box to make the cooling fan functional airflow pattern or it will overheat. The red board is just the spindle control VFD the 400.00 on the readout is the hertz in theory 400 is 24000 rpm. The motors are run by the BOB (Break out board) the small green one with the parallel port plug. Running sensitive electronics with a step up transformer is scary. AS another member mentioned the transformer has a switch to 120. (see the decal on the transformer) then just wire up the 110 there marked on the terminals. Include a 5amp fuse. You probably could wire limit switches to the BOB or swap it out but it is probably not worth it. End your programs with g49 z.0 g28 x,o y.o M30 This will bring the machine to home and in theory will still be at home when you start it back up. Keep a small vacuum handy make sure there are no chips limiting the travel when is homes. the machine i bought also looked like it had been set up and used then disassembled? the z motor was bad and it was obvious someone had been attempting to make it work. I contacted the manufacture they sent a new Z motor and driver from China DHL (after a little convincing) I just ordered a bigger motor and upgraded the Z. I make alot of parts with this setup and for the money It works very well. Again dont want to sound like a know it all just trying to help Ps get your electronics away from the dust at least higher not under Good luck
I used 2 of these machines 1 for work and 1 for personal use for 4 years with minimal issues. For the price it's not bad. I got the lpt input one and got a uccnc controller. I use vcarve and I have have great results
Thanks for the heads up ! I'm a machinist, and after some research, I'm just going to build one from scratch and buy the slide kits and serve kit and spindle kit.
Nice Video, very helpful. you have probably found this out by now but, if you pause the video at 5:21 you can see the power supply 115V/230V switch so you can run the machine without the step up transformer right from the wall.
Indeed however the spindle controller only works on 220. I could switch that supply to 110 but then I would need a second supply for a 220 into the controller. I have since thrown the spindle controller in this video out and installed a new one in a later video.
If you want to set up a 4th axis chuck a straight round bar and use an indicator to align it with the y or x axis. Also, if you want to home out to the same position every time then put something on the table to pick up every time you start up. Then set your part zero relative to that. I think the problem is that you know absolutely nothing about even basic machining and your trying to use a cnc. You also know nothing about cnc systems. Its not your fault mind you but people like you should never buy a machine like this. Its called a hobby machine for a reason.
@@deeremeyer1749 I liked the part when you called him a dumbass for explaining how you ACTUALLY would align the 4th axis(the lathe as old mate in the vid calls it which isn't a lathe), you really burned him there......I'm guessing you probably have as much experience with a milling machine as the guy who made the vid which would be nil.
your emergency switch goes through the controller board and needs to be setup in software. I know a very weird emergency switch but they likely did it to not cut off power to keep the machines positioning.
The speed control shows 400 because that is the max frequency output of the drive controller. North America uses a 60 Hz power line frequency. Many places around the world use 50 Hz. The line frequency (and how the motor is wound) determines the motor RPM. Most AC motors when connected to a 60 Hz line will run somewhat slower than 1800 RPM, often 1750 RPM. The spindle motor for the router has a maximum RPM of 24000 when the power is 400 Hz. The electronic controller takes the line frequency (60Hz or 50Hz) converts the power to DC, then converts it to AC. Whatever frequency you set.
It sounds like you purchased a hobby unit for commercial use. You can't expect to spend less money for commercial grade machine. Alot of people do this now a days and often complain about a product being faulty or of bad quality.... makes me laugh. Your water cooling system is your own design. Also there is software available that supports part repeatability... you said it best you should of known. This is a result of ignorance. People you have the vast information if the internet at your fingertips. Do research before making any kind of investment in anu tools or equipment.. o yea a 6040 Chinese cnc can keep up with a tormach etc.... i love the free entertainment available on you tube.
You need to take care of your tools and machines. Learn how to use them, then keep them clean and lubricate them occasionally. Oh, and wash your hands!
Thanks! I'm in the process of designing my own that's about the dimensions of these 6040's. I was like, "well maybe its worth just getting something off the shelf cheap". Yeah, nah. Your experience just reinforced my thought process: build it how I want it, and I know what I'm getting. Sorry you got screwed a bit on that one, but you took one for the team!
But there wasn't one on the VFD that ran the spindle. If I switched the power supply to 120v to power the steppers I would still have to have then a separate 220v coming in to power the spindle.
Ohh man, this video pains me. Ok, first off the main control board is actually the spindle VFD. Second, the spindle read out is in hertz. So if it is a 20, 000 RPM spindle. 400 hertz will be 20,000. 200 hertz is 10,000 100 hertz is 5,000 rpm. The board in the back right corner of the controller is the breakout board. That is where you switches will hook up to. It is widley known that the controller is junk out of the box. Get a gecko G540 to run the stepper motors and you will be AMAZED at how much smoother it will run. Please maintain your tools. WD-40 will keep rust away.
Used machine because of packaging? More likely customs inspection. China customs is brutal and haphazard by digging through boxes compared to the factory that actually ships stuff and cares about customer satisfaction (the backbone of success). The customs problem is very common and usually corrected by the importer in your country but, as you said, you ordered directly from China and suffered the customs rifling through your packages and the delays. I kind of know these things as I've exported MEGA tons of stuff from China to the US and other countries. And, YES, I'd like to have a 6040, hopefully someday soon. Love the video, Thanks. You do bring up so many great points, especially the translation problem from Mandarin to English - I also contend with that constantly but it is a little easier for me after living in China for almost 10 years. I'm not sure what every Chinese uses to translate languages but I assure you it is not Google... probably Baidu translate. The VAST majority of my customers are some very clever folks who are used to figuring things out for themselves. Sometimes I get the crybaby that needs constant hand-holding or someone that has zero mechanical inclination but that is rare. Most are thankful to receive parts that are a tiny fraction of the costs that they would otherwise pay - the Big $$ Difference being 'Plug and Play at crybaby prices' vs using your brain to save a ton of money, which is what you did. Kudos to you. Now step up and use your brain instead of dissing the incredible value that you got. I recently bought a 3D printer and it took two whole days to get it 100% operational so it may take me 2 to 4 days to get a 6040 up to snuff? Maybe. But it is a KIT of parts, not 'Crybaby Turnkey Simple', so I expect to put in some effort to save the big bucks. Obviously your mileage will vary. And it did for the OP.
I too thought it was customs but there are two issues with that hypothesis. We bought from a US distributor and customs doesn't usually halfway assemble various parts before throwing them back in the packaging. Either way tis a moot point as I have the machine and it is working. Now for "Now step up and use your brain instead of dissing the incredible value that you got" and "Crybaby Turnkey Simple" You obviously haven't seen the rest of my channel. All I can really say about that. You seem to be taking this video personally, are you one of the people pawning these machines off on other people?
"are you one of the people pawning these machines off on other people?" No. I don't vend electronic parts of any kind. As I said, "I'd like to have a 6040, hopefully someday soon." Sorry that you took the crybaby comment personally, it was not directed solely at you. It is actually good that you tried your honest best to give an evaluation of what you were promised vs what you received. Hopefully your distributor/middleman and the Chinese factory get to view your video. It just seems so strange to me that your distributor did not carefully inspect and repack the boxes. It sounds a lot like he simply took the order, collected the money, and had the goods drop-shipped to you from China. If that's the case, he was a useless and unnecessary extra expense.
I bought the Dongda 6040 4 axis machine and, as you said, the install manual is awful. I have yet to get the machine to work. I did buy Mach 3 and BobCad V-21 from a separate source. I don't know what values to install on the Mach 3 config screen because Mach 3 had some suggested values entered but they conflict with those in the Dongda manual. This machine also has a UC-100 controller that plugs into the printer port on the computer and the controller box of the 6040. It supposedly makes it easier for Mach 3 to operate without interference from Windows operating systems. I finally got the controller software downloaded from the Internet, got both lights on the controller to light up but the machine still will not fire up the spindle or allow me to use the hot keys to manually move the x, y, or z axis. I am at my wit's end. I set this up to try to cut inlays for pool cues. Right now, I am glad I still own a pantograph!
Please make a tutorial on set up! :) I just ordered mine thinking it would be easy to set up but, it's such a good deal. It might be worth it if I can find a tutorial on set up. Thank you in advance!
Very informative. Fyi you have a serious rust problem you must live near the beach. Also corrosion could be an issue on your controller causing it to fail.
(6:07) You mention the parallel port being an issue then (6:20) there definately appears to be a parallel port in the machine. Not surprising since you mention it was an old Windows XP machine. Perhaps I am misunderstanding something but why did you have to buy a parallel port card? The issue with Mach3 is they either gave you a demo version or pirated version. Either way you will have problems running the machine. Go here www.machsupport.com/software/mach3/ and buy Mach3 then completely uninstall (delete folder, driver, registries) and reinstall legitimate version or go here linuxcnc.org/ then erase Windows XP and fresh install linux OS and learn to use command lines. Just keep in mind no CNC machine is completely user friendly, there is always a learning curve and quirk with each machine. I am not surprised you have issues since the spindle controller in right next to motor drivers with unshielded wires. If you reorganize the setup I am sure you will notice a difference. Limit switches get hooked up to the breakout board terminal (PC parallel plugin board). The board is seen at 6:02 in far right corner of chassis. Looks like some unpopulated connectors on left side of board so you may need to add some way to connect wires for limit switches. Tool height setting can be used in Mach3 "Auto Tool Zero" but you will need to create a Visual Basic Script to auto execute it properly to the touch-off plate. The more I watch the video the more it is evident that the layout is poorly designed. Power wires must be away from controller boards, AC input and DC outputs should be routed on opposite sides of chassis (AC in one side and DC out another), remove spindle board and place it in another chassis away from motor wires (notice youtube videos when recording cameras get too close to spindles how it distorts the video, this is what happens inside that chassis), ensure that power supply is properly earth grounded to chassis and mains earth (DC ground should NOT have continuity with earth ground), ensure the parallel port connector at cnc chassis is not touching as the chassis is earth grounded because there is a bonding wire that earth grounds through the computer and thus creates a ground loop, and lastly run a 12-14 Gauge stranded bonding wire between the cnc controller chassis and cnc machine (add one wire to Z on gantry and one to table as there is a difference of resistance between the points and both wires must terminate at same point on controller chassis). Long story short, the earth grounding of chassis will essentially create a Faraday cage and all grounding on cnc side of things should be connected to a central location (i.e. chassis since it is a convenient spot). If the system is not properly shielded and grounded then the limit switches are going to kick randomly when running the machine as the motors and spindle will induce eddy currents which fools controller into thinking a switch is stripped. If you do not properly earth ground system a temporary solution is set debounce high in Mach3 or add a resistor to limit switch ground side. Wire all limit switches in series and set active high in Mach3 so there is juice flowing through switches. This will let you know if a wire/switch breaks or loosens.
I bought a USB CNC machinebackin the day that came with pirated software that worked for a few weeks, then the software pushed a firmware update that bricked the CNC machine. Long story short I had to buy a new controller but I feel your pain.
I think the point of these machines is to offer the absolute lowest cost to the end user, and in so doing- you are left with terrible choices in controller, wiring, fit and finish, pump, etc. I'm also trying to set myself up and learning what is needed to get started with a CNC affordable setup. I think the 6090/6040 machines like this one are a good choice to begin with, but require several additions and modifications to get it to be reliable and capable. I've heard that the steppers, spindle motor, axis screws, and frames on these are really good stuff. Sure, you have to double check alignments and tighten all the bolts. But the core machine is great. I've seen people converting to Tiny G controllers and replacing power supplies. The stepper drivers in this machine are good quality too, so they can be used without issue. In the end I expect to spend around 2000-2500 USD to get what I want- reliable, powerful, accurate cuts that are fairly quick. Am I on the right track here? Or am I crazy? Are there any other issues you have after using the machine?
+John B I agree 100%. I had bought this machine as I had never really dealt with one before. After using this machine I had the confidence to build my huge 3D printer. I have vids on my channel for it too. Building your own is significantly more rewarding as well.
Puddin I think this also might be my path. I would rather have something (somewhat) turnkey, gain experience, then build something bigger... I'll have all the essential knowledge at that point. I don't want to start building before I fully understand what I'm doing, what to do, and more importantly what NOT to do. I have to examine a working example before book or forum knowledge. I want to know what the terminology is, what the components are, and be able to see how the wiring runs and get an open source controller going on a built mill. This will lead me to forums, upgrades, and shortcuts or other helpful info... By then I should be relatively proficient enough to begin designing my new mill. I think this is wise to go through as I have always used this process to learn a variety of subjects and skill sets. Are there any tips you can give on beginning my journey?
+whatmakesittick Sorry I didn't mean to over look your question. You can most certainly upgrade this machine to better suit your needs. It is made from 1cm thick aluminum plate. Light and very strong. Very first thing I would replace is the parallel port output. I would think it more expensive to find that older hardware than USB but for sure would be the first to go. Once you have a USB connection I would then upgrade the main controller. Something that allows not only limit switches but a true 4/5 axis setup. I think the motor controllers in this machine was pretty decent so I would leave those in. The Nemas themselves aren't too bad. I haven't had any real issues with them and would hold off on replacing them unless you just have the cash laying around.
Have you thought about hooking up end stops directly to the PC? (i.e. through like an Arduino or something)? -- You might be able to write a plug-in for the FOSS that you're using to be able to work with them...
I have a follow up video to this where I get the end stops hooked up and the VFD swapped out. This was however ended up being moot as I am rebuilding it all yet again to no longer need a PC hooked up to it.
I'm guessing he has used a chemical such as Hydrochloric or Nitric acid in the same room, the vapors will cause metals to rust, since he mentioned scrapping the old PC's for gold if he scraps them himself you would use these same acids together as Aqua Regia to process the gold..but still, if there is rust on his tools then hes not oiling or protecting them correctly
I'm one of the 'suckers' who bought this lemon as well. It has taken quite a while to get it going, a lot of hair lost, lot of heartache and regret for doing it. Being stubborn helped me to persevere and keep it. "Manuals" coming with goods from China, are written in Jenglish, It's a 'new' speak; one needs to learn. Good luck.
1. Dialing in your fixtures (and in this case, your 4th axis) is completely standard in the machining world. Nothing out of the ordinary there, you need to learn how to do it properly. 2. If you want repeatability to industry standards, by an industry standard CNC machine, and not a 'hobby' machine, which is what you have. 3. Many CNC machines come without end stop switches, if you want them out of the box, you have to do your research before you buy. 4. Have you been keeping your 4th axis in a bucket of salty water?? Keep your tooling clean and dry, keep them oiled etc. 5. Everybody and his dog knows, when you buy anything from China, the instructions you receive will be in Chinglish. 6. Your "leadscrews" are ballscrews. 7. It's always a bit of a pain to set everything up, welcome to the machining world.
How much did you pay for the machine? I know that there are basically 2 types of those on eBay right now: the ~$450 ones and ~1450 ones :P Which one is it?
Just a heads up if you need a 110V AC, and because this is from china I am going to bet that if you take the power supply out there's going to be a switch on the side allowing you switch from 220V AC to 110V AC. Good Luck.
Dude most of those chinese power supplies like that have dual voltage input. Check the side of the power supply, there is probably a slide switch to change to 110v
would you buy just the frame kit for this cnc router , from wat youre telling on the video most of the problems lie in the electronics , the manual in general and the pirated CAD program they send along with it but once thats solved the machine delivers nice work though at a slow pace thinking about getting the spindle steppermotors and a controller that fits everything from a different suplier thats in the country i live at (so i could drive there and trow the parts through their windows if there customer service pisses me off once too often ) and see if i can find an open source cnc design and operating program
The actual frame of the machine is really nice. The spindle and the stepper controllers are pretty nice as well. I've already started swapping out the electronics in one of my newer videos.
i have an USB version of the same machine. FL-3040B . can't seem to get the spindle to work.. the JD-inverter keeps blinking 400.0 or some oter numbers. only can change the fun. anyone can help would be great.
Heavy table prevents shaking.... HAHAHAHAHAHA !. No, a properly assembled machine that is correctly leveled will not move. Again not taking the time to set it up and WATCH THE FREE ONLINE VIDEO ON HOW TO DO SO... The mind boggles.
I have the same 6040, although yours looks like a bit older model,the electronics in all these routers from china are shit, I have a Soigeneris STDR-4C with geko 540 an smooth step, an it works great ,As Tom sez cover up all ya electronis I have built my router into a cupboard with clear winder on front,so all the crap is kept in the cupboard area,the dampness of winter is hard on machines even if you do spray them with WD 40, my lathes get that thin rust look on them over winter so ive buit a small room an run a heater in it ,much better so good luck,all I need do is now learn how to use my 6040
Was looking into getting one but thanks to you, I will think twice. Maybe get one without the controller and add my own. Either way, very enlightening, thank you. You've probably figured it out already but the 400.0 displaying at max, is the frequency from the variable frequency drive to the spindle. So if your spindle is rated at 24000rpm at 400 Hz, then that should be what it's spinning at.
+loosrudi there is a different version , the ones from california , have much better reviews, obviously the electronics arent the best but it works. and you can always upgrade , but dont get the version with the American flag in the ad those ironically are cheap. www.ebay.com/itm/CNC-Router-Engraver-Milling-Machine-3D-Engraving-Cutting-4-Axis-6040-Desktop-/121937895581?hash=item1c6410a09d:g:CXgAAOSwdU1W-KaE
Why not just not except it or ask for your money back. That 4th axis looks like shit. Hope you take care of other stuff better then you did with that part.
I bought the same machine off ebay but without the 4th axis.$1150 delivered. The instructions are great compared to the one I received. You can download a demo of mach from the website with updates i would recommend that.
Don't want to look like a know it all but here are some suggestions.
Go to harbor freight or ebay buy a medium sized aquarium pump put it in a 5 gallon bucket with a lid add a little anti freeze it will cool and never lose its prime
As far as rust do you have a dryer in your garage? is it vented properly? even if it is dryers can be an issue. or your just in a high humidity location?
The lid needs to be on the control box to make the cooling fan functional airflow pattern or it will overheat.
The red board is just the spindle control VFD the 400.00 on the readout is the hertz in theory 400 is 24000 rpm.
The motors are run by the BOB (Break out board) the small green one with the parallel port plug.
Running sensitive electronics with a step up transformer is scary. AS another member mentioned the transformer has a switch to 120. (see the decal on the transformer) then just wire up the 110 there marked on the terminals. Include a 5amp fuse.
You probably could wire limit switches to the BOB or swap it out but it is probably not worth it.
End your programs with
g49 z.0
g28 x,o y.o
M30
This will bring the machine to home and in theory will still be at home when you start it back up.
Keep a small vacuum handy make sure there are no chips limiting the travel when is homes.
the machine i bought also looked like it had been set up and used then disassembled? the z motor was bad and it was obvious someone had been attempting to make it work. I contacted the manufacture they sent a new Z motor and driver from China DHL
(after a little convincing) I just ordered a bigger motor and upgraded the Z.
I make alot of parts with this setup and for the money It works very well.
Again dont want to sound like a know it all just trying to help
Ps get your electronics away from the dust at least higher not under
Good luck
I used 2 of these machines 1 for work and 1 for personal use for 4 years with minimal issues. For the price it's not bad. I got the lpt input one and got a uccnc controller. I use vcarve and I have have great results
Thanks for the heads up ! I'm a machinist, and after some research, I'm just going to build one from scratch and buy the slide kits and serve kit and spindle kit.
Nice Video, very helpful. you have probably found this out by now but, if you pause the video at 5:21 you can see the power supply 115V/230V switch so you can run the machine without the step up transformer right from the wall.
Indeed however the spindle controller only works on 220. I could switch that supply to 110 but then I would need a second supply for a 220 into the controller. I have since thrown the spindle controller in this video out and installed a new one in a later video.
If you want to set up a 4th axis chuck a straight round bar and use an indicator to align it with the y or x axis. Also, if you want to home out to the same position every time then put something on the table to pick up every time you start up. Then set your part zero relative to that. I think the problem is that you know absolutely nothing about even basic machining and your trying to use a cnc. You also know nothing about cnc systems. Its not your fault mind you but people like you should never buy a machine like this. Its called a hobby machine for a reason.
@@deeremeyer1749 I liked the part when you called him a dumbass for explaining how you ACTUALLY would align the 4th axis(the lathe as old mate in the vid calls it which isn't a lathe), you really burned him there......I'm guessing you probably have as much experience with a milling machine as the guy who made the vid which would be nil.
Look after your machine, don't let it get rusty like that!
How the hell does a lathe chuck and dead center get that rusty indoors lol"' WOW!
your emergency switch goes through the controller board and needs to be setup in software. I know a very weird emergency switch but they likely did it to not cut off power to keep the machines positioning.
The speed control shows 400 because that is the max frequency output of the drive controller. North America uses a 60 Hz power line frequency. Many places around the world use 50 Hz. The line frequency (and how the motor is wound) determines the motor RPM. Most AC motors when connected to a 60 Hz line will run somewhat slower than 1800 RPM, often 1750 RPM.
The spindle motor for the router has a maximum RPM of 24000 when the power is 400 Hz. The electronic controller takes the line frequency (60Hz or 50Hz) converts the power to DC, then converts it to AC. Whatever frequency you set.
The display on the VFD is the frequency to the spindle in Hertz.
LOL, had the machine for 2 years and never realised 400 x 60 = 24,000
It sounds like you purchased a hobby unit for commercial use. You can't expect to spend less money for commercial grade machine. Alot of people do this now a days and often complain about a product being faulty or of bad quality.... makes me laugh. Your water cooling system is your own design. Also there is software available that supports part repeatability... you said it best you should of known. This is a result of ignorance. People you have the vast information if the internet at your fingertips. Do research before making any kind of investment in anu tools or equipment.. o yea a 6040 Chinese cnc can keep up with a tormach etc.... i love the free entertainment available on you tube.
You need to take care of your tools and machines. Learn how to use them, then keep them clean and lubricate them occasionally. Oh, and wash your hands!
Thanks! I'm in the process of designing my own that's about the dimensions of these 6040's. I was like, "well maybe its worth just getting something off the shelf cheap". Yeah, nah. Your experience just reinforced my thought process: build it how I want it, and I know what I'm getting. Sorry you got screwed a bit on that one, but you took one for the team!
FYI there is a switch on the side of most of those power supplies for 120/240
But there wasn't one on the VFD that ran the spindle. If I switched the power supply to 120v to power the steppers I would still have to have then a separate 220v coming in to power the spindle.
Ohh man, this video pains me. Ok, first off the main control board is actually the spindle VFD. Second, the spindle read out is in hertz. So if it is a 20, 000 RPM spindle. 400 hertz will be 20,000. 200 hertz is 10,000 100 hertz is 5,000 rpm. The board in the back right corner of the controller is the breakout board. That is where you switches will hook up to. It is widley known that the controller is junk out of the box. Get a gecko G540 to run the stepper motors and you will be AMAZED at how much smoother it will run. Please maintain your tools. WD-40 will keep rust away.
Used machine because of packaging?
More likely customs inspection. China customs is brutal and haphazard by digging through boxes compared to the factory that actually ships stuff and cares about customer satisfaction (the backbone of success).
The customs problem is very common and usually corrected by the importer in your country but, as you said, you ordered directly from China and suffered the customs rifling through your packages and the delays.
I kind of know these things as I've exported MEGA tons of stuff from China to the US and other countries. And, YES, I'd like to have a 6040, hopefully someday soon.
Love the video, Thanks. You do bring up so many great points, especially the translation problem from Mandarin to English - I also contend with that constantly but it is a little easier for me after living in China for almost 10 years.
I'm not sure what every Chinese uses to translate languages but I assure you it is not Google... probably Baidu translate.
The VAST majority of my customers are some very clever folks who are used to figuring things out for themselves. Sometimes I get the crybaby that needs constant hand-holding or someone that has zero mechanical inclination but that is rare.
Most are thankful to receive parts that are a tiny fraction of the costs that they would otherwise pay - the Big $$ Difference being 'Plug and Play at crybaby prices' vs using your brain to save a ton of money, which is what you did. Kudos to you. Now step up and use your brain instead of dissing the incredible value that you got.
I recently bought a 3D printer and it took two whole days to get it 100% operational so it may take me 2 to 4 days to get a 6040 up to snuff? Maybe.
But it is a KIT of parts, not 'Crybaby Turnkey Simple', so I expect to put in some effort to save the big bucks. Obviously your mileage will vary. And it did for the OP.
I too thought it was customs but there are two issues with that hypothesis. We bought from a US distributor and customs doesn't usually halfway assemble various parts before throwing them back in the packaging. Either way tis a moot point as I have the machine and it is working.
Now for "Now step up and use your brain instead of dissing the incredible value that you got" and "Crybaby Turnkey Simple" You obviously haven't seen the rest of my channel. All I can really say about that.
You seem to be taking this video personally, are you one of the people pawning these machines off on other people?
"are you one of the people pawning these machines off on other people?" No. I don't vend electronic parts of any kind. As I said, "I'd like to have a 6040, hopefully someday soon."
Sorry that you took the crybaby comment personally, it was not directed solely at you. It is actually good that you tried your honest best to give an evaluation of what you were promised vs what you received. Hopefully your distributor/middleman and the Chinese factory get to view your video.
It just seems so strange to me that your distributor did not carefully inspect and repack the boxes. It sounds a lot like he simply took the order, collected the money, and had the goods drop-shipped to you from China. If that's the case, he was a useless and unnecessary extra expense.
I bought the Dongda 6040 4 axis machine and, as you said, the install manual is awful. I have yet to get the machine to work. I did buy Mach 3 and BobCad V-21 from a separate source. I don't know what values to install on the Mach 3 config screen because Mach 3 had some suggested values entered but they conflict with those in the Dongda manual. This machine also has a UC-100 controller that plugs into the printer port on the computer and the controller box of the 6040. It supposedly makes it easier for Mach 3 to operate without interference from Windows operating systems. I finally got the controller software downloaded from the Internet, got both lights on the controller to light up but the machine still will not fire up the spindle or allow me to use the hot keys to manually move the x, y, or z axis. I am at my wit's end. I set this up to try to cut inlays for pool cues. Right now, I am glad I still own a pantograph!
Please make a tutorial on set up! :) I just ordered mine thinking it would be easy to set up but, it's such a good deal. It might be worth it if I can find a tutorial on set up. Thank you in advance!
It is in the works :D
Very informative. Fyi you have a serious rust problem you must live near the beach. Also corrosion could be an issue on your controller causing it to fail.
(6:07) You mention the parallel port being an issue then (6:20) there definately appears to be a parallel port in the machine. Not surprising since you mention it was an old Windows XP machine. Perhaps I am misunderstanding something but why did you have to buy a parallel port card? The issue with Mach3 is they either gave you a demo version or pirated version. Either way you will have problems running the machine.
Go here www.machsupport.com/software/mach3/ and buy Mach3 then completely uninstall (delete folder, driver, registries) and reinstall legitimate version or go here linuxcnc.org/ then erase Windows XP and fresh install linux OS and learn to use command lines. Just keep in mind no CNC machine is completely user friendly, there is always a learning curve and quirk with each machine.
I am not surprised you have issues since the spindle controller in right next to motor drivers with unshielded wires. If you reorganize the setup I am sure you will notice a difference. Limit switches get hooked up to the breakout board terminal (PC parallel plugin board). The board is seen at 6:02 in far right corner of chassis. Looks like some unpopulated connectors on left side of board so you may need to add some way to connect wires for limit switches. Tool height setting can be used in Mach3 "Auto Tool Zero" but you will need to create a Visual Basic Script to auto execute it properly to the touch-off plate.
The more I watch the video the more it is evident that the layout is poorly designed. Power wires must be away from controller boards, AC input and DC outputs should be routed on opposite sides of chassis (AC in one side and DC out another), remove spindle board and place it in another chassis away from motor wires (notice youtube videos when recording cameras get too close to spindles how it distorts the video, this is what happens inside that chassis), ensure that power supply is properly earth grounded to chassis and mains earth (DC ground should NOT have continuity with earth ground), ensure the parallel port connector at cnc chassis is not touching as the chassis is earth grounded because there is a bonding wire that earth grounds through the computer and thus creates a ground loop, and lastly run a 12-14 Gauge stranded bonding wire between the cnc controller chassis and cnc machine (add one wire to Z on gantry and one to table as there is a difference of resistance between the points and both wires must terminate at same point on controller chassis). Long story short, the earth grounding of chassis will essentially create a Faraday cage and all grounding on cnc side of things should be connected to a central location (i.e. chassis since it is a convenient spot).
If the system is not properly shielded and grounded then the limit switches are going to kick randomly when running the machine as the motors and spindle will induce eddy currents which fools controller into thinking a switch is stripped. If you do not properly earth ground system a temporary solution is set debounce high in Mach3 or add a resistor to limit switch ground side. Wire all limit switches in series and set active high in Mach3 so there is juice flowing through switches. This will let you know if a wire/switch breaks or loosens.
That's IDE, not a parallel port.
Endswitches attach to the ParPort PCB iside, not to the VFD Board. I just installed some, no hassle.
thank you for your effort and helping explain things
I quote "You gotta an emergency button, that does not work"... You gotta be kidding man
I bought a USB CNC machinebackin the day that came with pirated software that worked for a few weeks, then the software pushed a firmware update that bricked the CNC machine. Long story short I had to buy a new controller but I feel your pain.
did you mean Mach3 pushed a new firmware to cnc controller board? How???
I think the point of these machines is to offer the absolute lowest cost to the end user, and in so doing- you are left with terrible choices in controller, wiring, fit and finish, pump, etc. I'm also trying to set myself up and learning what is needed to get started with a CNC affordable setup. I think the 6090/6040 machines like this one are a good choice to begin with, but require several additions and modifications to get it to be reliable and capable.
I've heard that the steppers, spindle motor, axis screws, and frames on these are really good stuff. Sure, you have to double check alignments and tighten all the bolts. But the core machine is great. I've seen people converting to Tiny G controllers and replacing power supplies. The stepper drivers in this machine are good quality too, so they can be used without issue. In the end I expect to spend around 2000-2500 USD to get what I want- reliable, powerful, accurate cuts that are fairly quick. Am I on the right track here? Or am I crazy? Are there any other issues you have after using the machine?
+John B
I agree 100%. I had bought this machine as I had never really dealt with one before. After using this machine I had the confidence to build my huge 3D printer. I have vids on my channel for it too. Building your own is significantly more rewarding as well.
Puddin I think this also might be my path. I would rather have something (somewhat) turnkey, gain experience, then build something bigger... I'll have all the essential knowledge at that point. I don't want to start building before I fully understand what I'm doing, what to do, and more importantly what NOT to do.
I have to examine a working example before book or forum knowledge. I want to know what the terminology is, what the components are, and be able to see how the wiring runs and get an open source controller going on a built mill. This will lead me to forums, upgrades, and shortcuts or other helpful info...
By then I should be relatively proficient enough to begin designing my new mill.
I think this is wise to go through as I have always used this process to learn a variety of subjects and skill sets. Are there any tips you can give on beginning my journey?
+whatmakesittick Sorry I didn't mean to over look your question. You can most certainly upgrade this machine to better suit your needs. It is made from 1cm thick aluminum plate. Light and very strong. Very first thing I would replace is the parallel port output. I would think it more expensive to find that older hardware than USB but for sure would be the first to go. Once you have a USB connection I would then upgrade the main controller. Something that allows not only limit switches but a true 4/5 axis setup. I think the motor controllers in this machine was pretty decent so I would leave those in. The Nemas themselves aren't too bad. I haven't had any real issues with them and would hold off on replacing them unless you just have the cash laying around.
Puddin Thanks for the info!
Have you thought about hooking up end stops directly to the PC? (i.e. through like an Arduino or something)? -- You might be able to write a plug-in for the FOSS that you're using to be able to work with them...
I have a follow up video to this where I get the end stops hooked up and the VFD swapped out. This was however ended up being moot as I am rebuilding it all yet again to no longer need a PC hooked up to it.
wow! Rust everywhere.....
This. Anyone that doesn't take care of their tools is a poor source of information.
looks like theres corrosion on the control board pcb, and hes using water instead of oil on the spindle, this guy is dumb.
I'm guessing he has used a chemical such as Hydrochloric or Nitric acid in the same room, the vapors will cause metals to rust, since he mentioned scrapping the old PC's for gold if he scraps them himself you would use these same acids together as Aqua Regia to process the gold..but still, if there is rust on his tools then hes not oiling or protecting them correctly
Yep, That's what I think has happened. Even storing HCl in the same room will corrode steel.
I'm one of the 'suckers' who bought this lemon as well. It has taken quite a while to get it going, a lot of hair lost, lot of heartache and regret for doing it. Being stubborn helped me to persevere and keep it.
"Manuals" coming with goods from China, are written in Jenglish,
It's a 'new' speak; one needs to learn. Good luck.
I cant get mach 3 to sync to the machine.. I think that's the biggest challenge to the machine
That manual is just dope :)
Am I going crazy or did you not see the switch on the side of the power supply unit that lets you switch it to 110v.
Yes the PS could switch to 110v but the VFD requires 220v. Flipping that switch would make it inoperable.
Why didn't you just send it back
I can't believe you would want anyone see how poorly you take care of you equiptment. Are you in a high humidity area?
Graet channel keep up the good work!
1. Dialing in your fixtures (and in this case, your 4th axis) is completely standard in the machining world. Nothing out of the ordinary there, you need to learn how to do it properly. 2. If you want repeatability to industry standards, by an industry standard CNC machine, and not a 'hobby' machine, which is what you have. 3. Many CNC machines come without end stop switches, if you want them out of the box, you have to do your research before you buy. 4. Have you been keeping your 4th axis in a bucket of salty water?? Keep your tooling clean and dry, keep them oiled etc. 5. Everybody and his dog knows, when you buy anything from China, the instructions you receive will be in Chinglish. 6. Your "leadscrews" are ballscrews. 7. It's always a bit of a pain to set everything up, welcome to the machining world.
The pirated Mach3 software is a nightmare. Buy the real one with the license and tech support for under $200.
It's called 'chinglish'; read easy vrey manual for operate to machine.
"chinglish"? I love it.
How much did you pay for the machine? I know that there are basically 2 types of those on eBay right now: the ~$450 ones and ~1450 ones :P Which one is it?
Mateusz Mittek
His title says 6040 which is the $1450 one. The $450 one is the 3040T, which is a smaller version of the 6040.
Just a heads up if you need a 110V AC, and because this is from china I am going to bet that if you take the power supply out there's going to be a switch on the side allowing you switch from 220V AC to 110V AC. Good Luck.
Dude most of those chinese power supplies like that have dual voltage input. Check the side of the power supply, there is probably a slide switch to change to 110v
amigo que transformador tiene para el spindle de cuantos watts
would you buy just the frame kit for this cnc router , from wat youre telling on the video most of the problems lie in the electronics , the manual in general and the pirated CAD program they send along with it but once thats solved the machine delivers nice work though at a slow pace
thinking about getting the spindle steppermotors and a controller that fits everything from a different suplier thats in the country i live at (so i could drive there and trow the parts through their windows if there customer service pisses me off once too often ) and see if i can find an open source cnc design and operating program
The actual frame of the machine is really nice. The spindle and the stepper controllers are pretty nice as well. I've already started swapping out the electronics in one of my newer videos.
decided on another machine , check youre private message
Are you living on a coast line? Looks like everything is rusting. Same for me WD40 is my friend. :-)
I took my first cut the same day I got my 6040, and that's NOT using the pirated software, and setting the new software up
i have an USB version of the same machine. FL-3040B . can't seem to get the spindle to work.. the JD-inverter keeps blinking 400.0 or some oter numbers. only can change the fun. anyone can help would be great.
Heavy table prevents shaking.... HAHAHAHAHAHA !. No, a properly assembled machine that is correctly leveled will not move. Again not taking the time to set it up and WATCH THE FREE ONLINE VIDEO ON HOW TO DO SO... The mind boggles.
I have the same 6040, although yours looks like a bit older model,the electronics in all these routers from china are shit, I have a Soigeneris STDR-4C with geko 540 an smooth step, an it works great ,As Tom sez cover up all ya electronis I have built my router into a cupboard with clear winder on front,so all the crap is kept in the cupboard area,the dampness of winter is hard on machines even if you do spray them with WD 40, my lathes get that thin rust look on them over winter so ive buit a small room an run a heater in it ,much better so good luck,all I need do is now learn how to use my 6040
Dude theres a switch on the side of the power supply for 110/220, no need for the transformer.
Was looking into getting one but thanks to you, I will think twice.
Maybe get one without the controller and add my own. Either way, very enlightening, thank you.
You've probably figured it out already but the 400.0 displaying at max, is the frequency from the variable frequency drive to the spindle.
So if your spindle is rated at 24000rpm at 400 Hz, then that should be what it's spinning at.
+loosrudi there is a different version , the ones from california , have much better reviews, obviously the electronics arent the best but it works. and you can always upgrade , but dont get the version with the American flag in the ad those ironically are cheap. www.ebay.com/itm/CNC-Router-Engraver-Milling-Machine-3D-Engraving-Cutting-4-Axis-6040-Desktop-/121937895581?hash=item1c6410a09d:g:CXgAAOSwdU1W-KaE
+Eddie Amaya Thanks Eddie. Looks much better and they do ship worldwide except a couple of continents. I live on one of them, LOL
I've been looking at these for a long time on Ebay, youtube, etc. I'm buying an American made machine where I can get support....
you setting the 4th axis wrong it should be at the bottom facing up the table
Nothing in your control box is shielded and grounded. Big problems there...
Give me uear mashin what price in India
Thanks for the warning, never getting one of these :)
dude, you got some sort of serious issue in your environment if everything rusts like that!
it's not hard to align a 4th axis...
"arenaceous" is in fact a word.
lmfao... yeah... with all the typos and hard to read text... AT-LEAST... they got that word right... I'm totally buying this piece of sht 🤣
How about just buy one that's made in America and you don't have to worry about all that b******* you're going through
Hi I m Roshan how much price in This machine and sher link pls
Why not just not except it or ask for your money back. That 4th axis looks like shit. Hope you take care of other stuff better then you did with that part.
pude alguien ayudarme a configurar el mach3 compre un cnc 6040t en ebay y no he logrado ponerlo a trabajar
Por que tanto oxido? XD
surly not stainless steel from China :-),
what a terrible mess you got there :-)
Why is everything in shit state? It all looks so neglected.
chinies toys
So much rust, wtf?
thank you for your effort and helping explain things