I like to see that you put the comercials at the end. Doesn't hurt to have them running while reading the description or running through the comments. Wish more would do it that way.
Thanks Andreas for your video . It's one step beyond in 3D printing for me, because I'm totally ignorant about CAD software's. I think there's a lot to learn before I start printing things designed on my own. The alternative is to search on the net what is closest to my use and modify it, but also the changes need knowledge, as you have shared with this video!
Thanks Andreas, mostly, it's all you need.... A simple box template that's easily customisable. And what a game changer it has been for me to invest in a 3D printer. Once you get one, and see what it can do, it pays for itself very quickly........
Another project that I will surely adopt for use in my future projects, simple a efficient. What I like is that it allow to have a zero inventory approach on plastic project boxes. These usually take valuable space and I don't always find the right one in my stock when needed. Thanks!!!
Hi Andreas- thanks for this lighthearted and wonderfully pragmatic video. A joy to watch. I've used your previous screw boxes to date and will now migrate to this version along with learning fusion 360 :)
Awesome, i just downloaded the file, parameters are working like a charm ! Just saw that the missing holes will come later :-) What a service, just stunning !!!
Hi Andreas, I use the "Ikea" trick too, and am surely not the first - but with a difference - The LACK table in my setup is upside-down. The problem with the Prusa I3 design is that the base is not torsionally stiff. The top of the Ikea LACK is exquisitely torsionally stiff. If the LACK is upside-down, the four legs still serve as pillars for attaching "walls", "roof" and other anchor-points. It also makes the printer easily transportable. To be sure- I also have three bumpers under my lack to provide a non-overconstrained interface to the surface it stands upon. Result --> perfect first-layer each and every time. Cheers!
Good idea! I have no problems with the first layer (maybe also because of the auto leveling of the MK3. As you saw I use the Lack not for walls but to have more space for my filament (space became an issue here because of the many mailbags ;-) My printer sits on a solid piece of wood.
You regularly read my mind and interests, I'm not sure how, but thank you! I recently 'jailbroke' my DaVinci 1.0a printer so it no longer requires their own brand of filament. That has also always 'just worked' but I wanted more choice and it now runs Repetier perfectly. So your video comes at a good time as I dust off my OpenScad and FreeCad after a bit of a break. You have prompted me to try Fusion as it has gained in popularity and your points on sharing are well made. Thanks again. :-)
+1 for what others have said about freecad vs open source stuff. Freecad looks a lot like the fusion360. You may also want to look into Octoprint on a raspberry pi for your printer. It supports the common firmwares (Smoothie, Marlin, etc) - just hook your 3d printer's USB up to the raspberry pi's USB port, then you have a web interface to interact with your printer. Also, some slicers (I use slic3r) speak directly with Octoprint, which then allows you to "Slice+Upload" from the slicer software. Works great
My printer even has a native interface for a Rpi and Octoprint. If I have time, I will add one. But as I said, it is a tool for me. So I do not spend too much time with it if it works.
Hi Andreas, and thank you for your most inspirational videos. Now, I cannot postpone buying a 3D printer anymore, but I want to buy the right one. So my question is: If You were to buy a new 3D printer today, what would YOU buy. A Prusa again? My needs seems a lot like Yours, as my interests are .... well, Sensors and Microcontrollers 😁 The price is secondary to the quality and usability - I know that quality costs money. Thank You in advance.
Thank you very much for another great video Andreas! I had not realized that my Fusion 360 had expired as well but it only took me a couple minutes to find the correct procedure to extend my free subscription.
Other read the newspaper on monday morning. I watch Andreas videos. Increadible. Each time there are so interresting news like this topic. Now, to build electronics makes more fun, because only witht a box electrivs ist protected und useful. Many thanks.
Very nice Video! Parametric modelling is very useful! Just define a base division as parameter and bind it to your model (e.g. 2x width, 5x height and so on). Works on leghts, angles, diameters, positions. Thats the best way to design a consistant and changeable model instead of just extruding it to size.
Brilliant. Full of sensible and helpful advice - as usual. I am rapidly becoming a Fusion360 fan, having first learned about it on one of your other videos (and struggled for years with openSCAD) - and am very happy it can send STL files directly to Simplify3D. This box template is just what I was looking for too. Thanks Andreas. And… the reamer; genius. Have ordered one from Amazon.
Great video! Designing boxes and the 3D CAD software was always a little bit scary for me, after this video I feel more encouraged to try to design something and later order the 3d print somewhere :)
It is also worth mentioning that there are lots of boxes and other kinds of model designs for thinkering projects on Thingiverse. They are usually in STL format and very well built.
Fantastic job Andreas! You make everything so interesting! I said it before, I wish you are my neighbor! Have a great day-week-month-year... and keep sharing with us your ideas and projects! Thank you!
@@AndreasSpiess Yes, lack of daylight makes many people depressed or under-productive! I love sunny and worm days, but I think I could do much more than I do every day! ha ha ha
For print adhesion have you tried glue stick? Since it is water soluble, it is a lot easier to cleanup and also I didn't like the smell of the hairspray or the residue the spray leaves. Also I have a small water spray (mist) bottle that I use to refresh the glue stick before each print (I don't clean the bed every time). The purple Elmer's is nice because it is purple when it is wet so it is easy to see the coverage. Also, IMHO the extra thickness of the glue stick helps to compensate from imperfectly level bed.
No, I did not try glue stick for a few years. The hairspray is ok for me (if you do the coating outside the lab as I also do not like the smell). It is done very fast and I do it just from time-to-time. I am even not sure if it is still necessary with the new Prusa.
I am using FreeCAD and created a universal box as well. FreeCAD, like Fusion 360 has a possibility to enter the parameters in a spreadsheet so, like you show in your video, changing the size is very easy as well. Also not using screws, just tightly fitting lids
I use the same technique to get perfectly round holes; but, I just use a standard twist drill to get final size to finish the hole. One important point is to make sure the "wall thickness" parameter in the slicer is set thick enough to accommodate the drill operation and not penetrate into the infill. Also, I don't use as much difference, I typically only make it 0.2mm smaller and a will thickness of 0.8mm. This is may vary with the printer. If the hole has to carry a thread, I would increase the wall thickness.
You are right with the thread. So far I never tried that in walls. I always create posts for screws. I did not find issues hitting the infill during the hole extension. It is covered by the parts which I mount. Totally different if you do not want to mount something!
Just found your channel! Can't wait to go through all the videos in the backlog. Thanks for making such cool electronics videos, you remind me of greatscott!
May I suggest Freecad as a 3D design software option? It's open source, fast learning curve, and lots of tutorials in RUclips. Maybe not so complete, but simple and easy for DIY. Thank you for your videos Mr. Spiess!
The reason I put my example on Github is that you can add a similar customizable box for Freecad. An openSCAD example was already provided by a viewer...
@@AndreasSpiess Interesting! A colleague of mine says the same. and tries to convince me. But I cannot imagine how this would be worth while for me. I Always have some cheap boxes on stock and a lot of small junction boxes for 0.50EUR to a few EUR. So my project boxes usually are build very fast and cheap.
For the moment I have a project where I want to measure pressure in a beer bottle (for homebrewers). Therefore I need a particular cap with a particular thread which is air-tight and can house the pressure sensor. You see, I do not only print boxes. ;-)
Great video as usual. I think you could use midpoint constraints to keep the holes on centre instead of referencing the width/length parameters but I guess your way allows people to offset the hole position if required.
Hello Andreas, as ussual your videos are a good source of practical information. I use a similar method for my boxes, the parametrics are great. None the less, I'm very intrigued with your proyect 'Beer Pressure Sensor' that can be seen in the proyects of your Fusion 360, I'm in the (long) process of automate my beer brewing equipment, so any info about that is gratly appreciated. I think I'll use Raspberry Pi with CraftBeerPi, There are some projects using ESP8266, witch is probably more than capable of controlling all the things, but I feel that the room for enhacement of the Pi is great. Anyway sorry for my english, and thanks for sharing.
For those that are uncomfortable with the vendor lock-in of F360 and want a more traditional form of CAD than FreeCAD or OpenScad then you may want to investigate DesignSpark Mechanical by RS components. This is a port of SpaceClaim CAD software and is free to download and use and requires simple email registration and no on-going internet connection or licence renewal. Files are held locally so there is no reliance or security concerns with the cloud. They also do a circuit/PCB design package under similar terms too.
Cool Fusion360 steht auf der "To learn" Liste und ein praktisches Beispiel adaptieren ist sicher ein guter "Hello Print" Start. Als erstes werde ich wohl die Kanten ein wenig abrunden 😊
@AndreasSpiess : Thank you!!! I have a question about your little box. If I change the dimensions - I'm facing a problem thats "Mirror1 - no target body" and "Chamfer1 - Edge 1 is missing". Do you konw how to fix these problems? Thank you so much and have a good day!
I do not know. I use these files a lot an so far never had this message. Maybe you are somehow outside the (invisible) limits of the box. I would start with the original and change one dimension after the other to understand where the error starts to appear.
@@AndreasSpiess hello, thank you for your message. Yeah, I looked for the problem that I have. Yesterday night I fixed it by myself. There was no mirror plate for the top. Thank you for your work! Have a good weekend. Stay healthy und alles gute
If I am not mistaken, Fusion 360 stopped offering free license. Any chance you could offer guidance using another open source CAD program? As always, I am not stop saying how thankful I am for your educational videos
Great video as always. I really learned a lot since I discovered your channel, thank you so much. What is the name of the pirce you put around the led on the last example? That's a nice touch.
In order to make individual STLs for the various bodies at one time, you can right click on the name of the project on the top of the "BROWSER" on the left side. Click on "Save as STL" then in the dialog box change the "Structure" option to "One File Per Body"
@@AndreasSpiess The one annoying catch is if you have a group that is invisible, but the parts in the group are still flagged as visible, they will show up in your STLs despite not showing in your preview. It is not a huge problem, but my current project has something like 200 bodies in it so it is cumbersome to go through each group.
Excellent video. If you ever want to get rid of that hairspray forever go ahead and update to the Ultrabase glass bed cover. You will thank me later ;)
@@AndreasSpiess No need to bend it or remove it ever anymore :) When it cools, the parts just pop off. You can buy on ebay, Ali etc. I have a video coming on it soon. Heres bangood example. 20-50 depending on your size usually. www.banggood.com/search/ultrabase.html?sbc=1
I got a prusa clone 3d printer a month ago and this is all most people will need, upgrade it with stuff on thingiverse. If you can't buy yet, learn designing on openScad, freecad, or others and import into Cura to learn slicing. Learn about different materials and temperatures. You will need to know all this after you buy any way. These will look like old dot matrix printers in the future, hoky. Color, multi-head is only starting. 3d printing is slow, taking hours. Key is anchoring your project to the bed.
I use OctoPrint to control my printer (Mk2s) and Slic3r Prusa Edition for slicing and easy gcode transfer to the printer. It can upload directly to OctoPrint and start printing when it's done heating. And my home automation system automaticly turns off the printer when it's done printing but thats a story for another time :-)
I also do the same. If the printer has finished and hasn't started again after a a set number of mins then it powers off. Good for those prints that takes a while and you don't want to see if it's finished. I also use pushbullet to notify me when completed and tasker on the phone to say it out loud. All controlled via Home Assistant.
Beginner question but how do I delete for example both holes on the bottom sketch? I get an error "The profile reference is lost". Sure the extrude feature is missing the profiles now so is there a way to disable the extrude feature for this sketch? Many thanks for your reply, Vy 73 from Austria
nice box template, thanks for sharing! However, there seems to be some sort of bug in the "parametric" section of the top cover - only one of the two holes can be deleted, the attempt to delete the 2nd hole returns a warning (being a fusion360 noob, though... :)
After I edit dimensions Autodesk complains about Chamfer1 (and this thing on the lid to keep box closed disappears) and some other things. I think I managed to do this once in the past, but then I reinstalled windows, maybe new version of Fusion broke some things? :(
I am having this same issue, I still use the same windows machine, but have since updated Fusion. I suspect its something with Fusion. I have not been able to figure this out why it does this. I printed the box anyway, and it still closes tight, just a slight bulge on the one side where the groove is missing in the base.
Nice video, but can you please balance the audio channel ? It sounds like your voice comes in majority from the left channel, either balancing the record or converting to mono would be great
@Andreas Spiess Slightly off topic but I noticed your bench meter, I am looking for a bench meter (I have a couple good multimeters if I need accuracy) but if I'm doing measurements over time multimeters are annoying when they turn off etc. What do you think of that particular unit? Cheers
Hi Andreas, I just printed the top for this project and it is perfect however, one of the latches on the base dissapears when resizing so I cannot print this! I assume Fusion has changed in some way since you designed this? Would be very much apreciated if you could take a look.. Best wishes, Wal...
You are such a joy to listen to! Competent, clear and no nonsense, still as useful 4 years later as when you first posted. Thank you.
You are welcome. Indeed, I still base all my current cases on this old template.
I like to see that you put the comercials at the end. Doesn't hurt to have them running while reading the description or running through the comments.
Wish more would do it that way.
They usually appear also at the beginning.
Thanks Andreas for your video
.
It's one step beyond in 3D printing for me, because I'm totally ignorant about CAD software's.
I think there's a lot to learn before I start printing things designed on my own.
The alternative is to search on the net what is closest to my use and modify it, but also the changes need knowledge, as you have shared with this video!
You lose a lot of opportunities! Maybe you start with my design and add some "bells and whistles" before you start your own design...
Thanks Andreas, mostly, it's all you need.... A simple box template that's easily customisable. And what a game changer it has been for me to invest in a 3D printer. Once you get one, and see what it can do, it pays for itself very quickly........
The 3D printer became one of the most important tools in my lab. I hardly use the milling machine since then.
Thank you Andreas, useful as always!
I‘m just starting with 3D printing and it fits as „Die Faust auf‘s Auge“ as we say in Germany 😀
You are welcome!
Another project that I will surely adopt for use in my future projects, simple a efficient. What I like is that it allow to have a zero inventory approach on plastic project boxes. These usually take valuable space and I don't always find the right one in my stock when needed. Thanks!!!
You are welcome! I also like that the openings are already "printed" in these cases
Hi Andreas- thanks for this lighthearted and wonderfully pragmatic video. A joy to watch. I've used your previous screw boxes to date and will now migrate to this version along with learning fusion 360 :)
I think it will be an upgrade ;-)
Awesome, i just downloaded the file, parameters are working like a charm ! Just saw that the missing holes will come later :-) What a service, just stunning !!!
I changed the file slightly and put it to another location: github.com/SensorsIot/Project-Box-Templates Maybe you try again?
@@AndreasSpiess Perfect! All good. Thank you so much !
Hi Andreas,
I use the "Ikea" trick too, and am surely not the first - but with a difference - The LACK table in my setup is upside-down. The problem with the Prusa I3 design is that the base is not torsionally stiff. The top of the Ikea LACK is exquisitely torsionally stiff. If the LACK is upside-down, the four legs still serve as pillars for attaching "walls", "roof" and other anchor-points. It also makes the printer easily transportable. To be sure- I also have three bumpers under my lack to provide a non-overconstrained interface to the surface it stands upon. Result --> perfect first-layer each and every time.
Cheers!
Good idea! I have no problems with the first layer (maybe also because of the auto leveling of the MK3. As you saw I use the Lack not for walls but to have more space for my filament (space became an issue here because of the many mailbags ;-) My printer sits on a solid piece of wood.
"....You know why? Cuz it works!"
Brilliant one liner Mein Herr Spiess!
As always, great video with great information. My go to channel for tech
😎
Thank you for your kind words!
Thank you so much @Andrea Spiess for share your knowledge... Too many people from worldwide appreciate it.
You are welcome!
Thanks! I really enjoy your videos! Cheers from the guy with a Brazilian accent!
You are welcome!
You regularly read my mind and interests, I'm not sure how, but thank you! I recently 'jailbroke' my DaVinci 1.0a printer so it no longer requires their own brand of filament. That has also always 'just worked' but I wanted more choice and it now runs Repetier perfectly. So your video comes at a good time as I dust off my OpenScad and FreeCad after a bit of a break. You have prompted me to try Fusion as it has gained in popularity and your points on sharing are well made. Thanks again. :-)
So enjoy your "new" printer!
+1 for what others have said about freecad vs open source stuff. Freecad looks a lot like the fusion360.
You may also want to look into Octoprint on a raspberry pi for your printer. It supports the common firmwares (Smoothie, Marlin, etc) - just hook your 3d printer's USB up to the raspberry pi's USB port, then you have a web interface to interact with your printer. Also, some slicers (I use slic3r) speak directly with Octoprint, which then allows you to "Slice+Upload" from the slicer software. Works great
My printer even has a native interface for a Rpi and Octoprint. If I have time, I will add one. But as I said, it is a tool for me. So I do not spend too much time with it if it works.
Hi Andreas, and thank you for your most inspirational videos.
Now, I cannot postpone buying a 3D printer anymore, but I want to buy the right one. So my question is: If You were to buy a new 3D printer today, what would YOU buy. A Prusa again? My needs seems a lot like Yours, as my interests are .... well, Sensors and Microcontrollers 😁 The price is secondary to the quality and usability - I know that quality costs money. Thank You in advance.
I still think the Prusa is a good solution
Literally I was designing my box yesterday. This is much faster. Thanks.
Maybe you can use it for the next box ;-)
Very nice project. Don't worry about the haters always think software must be free or open source. Fusion 360 is the perfect choice in this project.
Thank you!
Thank you very much for another great video Andreas! I had not realized that my Fusion 360 had expired as well but it only took me a couple minutes to find the correct procedure to extend my free subscription.
:-)
Other read the newspaper on monday morning. I watch Andreas videos. Increadible. Each time there are so interresting news like this topic. Now, to build electronics makes more fun, because only witht a box electrivs ist protected und useful. Many thanks.
You are definitively ahead of me: Here it is still Sunday ;-)
On spot for a lot of makers like myself and very well explained (not too slow) too! 💯
Thank you!
Great video with so many useful information. Thank you Andreas !
:-)
Very nice Video!
Parametric modelling is very useful! Just define a base division as parameter and bind it to your model (e.g. 2x width, 5x height and so on). Works on leghts, angles, diameters, positions. Thats the best way to design a consistant and changeable model instead of just extruding it to size.
I once tried it but did not like it. I prefer visual modeling. But I know that many people love the parametric tools.
@@AndreasSpiess Fusion does actually a good job combining direct and parametric modeling which is easy to use, like we see on your box model.
Very useful. Thank you for taking the time to help the community
Glad it was helpful!
Brilliant. Full of sensible and helpful advice - as usual.
I am rapidly becoming a Fusion360 fan, having first learned about it on one of your other videos (and struggled for years with openSCAD) - and am very happy it can send STL files directly to Simplify3D.
This box template is just what I was looking for too. Thanks Andreas.
And… the reamer; genius. Have ordered one from Amazon.
I also use these boxes a lot. And the reamer, too. It is very easy to get the right diameter with it.
I love this channel, I'm never bored here.
Thank you!
Jesus man... you're the best. Seriously. This is amazing content.
Thank you!
EXACTLY WHAT I WANTED! THANKS ANDREAS!! :D
Edit: I like that you number your videos to find them easily!! :D
Glad to hear that!
@@AndreasSpiess 😀
Thanks Andreas, useful and all the nitty-gritty details so well explained to get started.
So good luck!
Great video! Designing boxes and the 3D CAD software was always a little bit scary for me, after this video I feel more encouraged to try to design something and later order the 3d print somewhere :)
I always try to start with an example and then add the bells and whistles ;-)
You can right click on the top component and select „Export as STL“. In the Windows that opens you have to select „One file per component“
Thanks for your help. Together we are strong!
brilliant idea to use a wifi-sdcard to transfer files to 3d printer!!
Thank you! I use the same principle for my (old) camera.
Just curious, have you looked at OctoPrint?
It is also worth mentioning that there are lots of boxes and other kinds of model designs for thinkering projects on Thingiverse. They are usually in STL format and very well built.
Indeed. There are some great parametric scad based ones.
But beware the license terms if you ever intend to make you hobby a profession.
@@MetalheadAndNerd I didn't pay attention to that. Nice to know.
That's similar to how I make boxes for my own projects, Thank you very much for sharing! I enjoyed watching.
You are welcome!
Fantastic box, tanks for sharing this box primative, thanks Andreas and adafruit 😀👍
You are welcome. I hope it will save you time one day!
I use the same box for my projects, I was wondering how did you made it so similar, but then I saw you watched the same adafruit video 😁
As I said many times: I try to stand on the shoulders of others ;-) But I also give credit to those shoulders
Fantastic job Andreas! You make everything so interesting! I said it before, I wish you are my neighbor! Have a great day-week-month-year... and keep sharing with us your ideas and projects! Thank you!
You are welcome! Thee spring is here now and the days get longer. It improves automatically the quality of life for me...
@@AndreasSpiess Yes, lack of daylight makes many people depressed or under-productive! I love sunny and worm days, but I think I could do much more than I do every day! ha ha ha
For print adhesion have you tried glue stick? Since it is water soluble, it is a lot easier to cleanup and also I didn't like the smell of the hairspray or the residue the spray leaves. Also I have a small water spray (mist) bottle that I use to refresh the glue stick before each print (I don't clean the bed every time). The purple Elmer's is nice because it is purple when it is wet so it is easy to see the coverage. Also, IMHO the extra thickness of the glue stick helps to compensate from imperfectly level bed.
No, I did not try glue stick for a few years. The hairspray is ok for me (if you do the coating outside the lab as I also do not like the smell). It is done very fast and I do it just from time-to-time. I am even not sure if it is still necessary with the new Prusa.
I am using FreeCAD and created a universal box as well. FreeCAD, like Fusion 360 has a possibility to enter the parameters in a spreadsheet so, like you show in your video, changing the size is very easy as well. Also not using screws, just tightly fitting lids
I think this is a vey time-saving idea in whatever tool you create them.
I use the same technique to get perfectly round holes; but, I just use a standard twist drill to get final size to finish the hole. One important point is to make sure the "wall thickness" parameter in the slicer is set thick enough to accommodate the drill operation and not penetrate into the infill. Also, I don't use as much difference, I typically only make it 0.2mm smaller and a will thickness of 0.8mm. This is may vary with the printer. If the hole has to carry a thread, I would increase the wall thickness.
You are right with the thread. So far I never tried that in walls. I always create posts for screws. I did not find issues hitting the infill during the hole extension. It is covered by the parts which I mount. Totally different if you do not want to mount something!
Just found your channel! Can't wait to go through all the videos in the backlog. Thanks for making such cool electronics videos, you remind me of greatscott!
Welcome to the channel!
May I suggest Freecad as a 3D design software option? It's open source, fast learning curve, and lots of tutorials in RUclips. Maybe not so complete, but simple and easy for DIY. Thank you for your videos Mr. Spiess!
The reason I put my example on Github is that you can add a similar customizable box for Freecad. An openSCAD example was already provided by a viewer...
Vor zwei Tagen habe ich den Bericht bei SRF3 gehört xD Habe much für dich gefreut ^^
Welchen Bericht? Kann man das online abrufen?
www.srf.ch/news/allgemeines/soziale-medien-ue60-influencer-landet-grosserfolg-mit-elektronik-videos
Octanius Blue Vielen Dank. Andreas kannst Du das für alle anpinnen?
Ich kanns versuchen... Es war schon auf Twitter und Facebook...
Great case design! Thanks for sharing your knowledge and making these awesome videos.
You are welcome!
Now all I need is a 3d printer. :-) Thank you for sharing.
Me too👍
if you ever decide to get one, dont get a kit version. save up for a decent one to save headaches
The 3D printer was one of the best investments I did. This is an awesome technology.
@@AndreasSpiess Interesting! A colleague of mine says the same. and tries to convince me. But I cannot imagine how this would be worth while for me. I Always have some cheap boxes on stock and a lot of small junction boxes for 0.50EUR to a few EUR. So my project boxes usually are build very fast and cheap.
For the moment I have a project where I want to measure pressure in a beer bottle (for homebrewers). Therefore I need a particular cap with a particular thread which is air-tight and can house the pressure sensor. You see, I do not only print boxes. ;-)
Great video as usual. I think you could use midpoint constraints to keep the holes on centre instead of referencing the width/length parameters but I guess your way allows people to offset the hole position if required.
You are right. But then I would not have been able to show you the feature with the parameters in the dimensions ;-)
Hello Andreas, as ussual your videos are a good source of practical information. I use a similar method for my boxes, the parametrics are great.
None the less, I'm very intrigued with your proyect 'Beer Pressure Sensor' that can be seen in the proyects of your Fusion 360, I'm in the (long) process of automate my beer brewing equipment, so any info about that is gratly appreciated. I think I'll use Raspberry Pi with CraftBeerPi, There are some projects using ESP8266, witch is probably more than capable of controlling all the things, but I feel that the room for enhacement of the Pi is great. Anyway sorry for my english, and thanks for sharing.
I tought that I might not be the only one who got caught up on the "Beer pressure sensor" project name. Would like to know more too.
You need to be patient ;-)
1:29 gotta love the youtube home page...
New mixes to check out!
THANKS for another excellent video with lots of great tips and ideas!
You are welcome!
For those that are uncomfortable with the vendor lock-in of F360 and want a more traditional form of CAD than FreeCAD or OpenScad then you may want to investigate DesignSpark Mechanical by RS components. This is a port of SpaceClaim CAD software and is free to download and use and requires simple email registration and no on-going internet connection or licence renewal. Files are held locally so there is no reliance or security concerns with the cloud.
They also do a circuit/PCB design package under similar terms too.
Thank you for the information.
Thanks for the template! I struggled to make one for my TFT screen and gave up for now. I will retry one day :)
I am sure you will suceed!
Thanks for great and useful information
My pleasure!
thanks Andreas, Quick, to the point, as usual
You are welcome!
Cool Fusion360 steht auf der "To learn" Liste und ein praktisches Beispiel adaptieren ist sicher ein guter "Hello Print" Start.
Als erstes werde ich wohl die Kanten ein wenig abrunden 😊
Du kannst dein Design ja dann als Pull Request allen zur Verfügung stellen :-) Das wird sicher schön mit deinen handwerklichen Fähigkeiten.
I’ve been looking for a video like this. Thanks for the great content!
You are welcome!
Adjustment is creating warnings in fusion360 - as the mirror references get lost in changing the parameters
There were other comments like that. It never occurred to me.
As a coder I love OpenSCAD for parametric designs
I just moved my file to GitHub. Feel free to add a template box for OpenSCAD.
github.com/SensorsIot/Project-Box-Templates
Amazing video, Andreas. Thanks!
Glad you liked it!
cool - very useful it will save me some 3d design time - well done, thanks a lot.
Definitively. I helped me already many times...
You can add a little notch on the side so people can use a flat head screw driver to open the lid.
Good point!
Hi Andreas, great video and thanks for the template! :)
You are welcome!
Hallo Freund
Herzlichen Glückwunsch zu deinen Beiträgen.
Prächtiges Labor.
Danke!
I just set up my 3d printer im gonna try this! I use fudion 360 since a loong time and its a great tool. Also open scad is widly used
I changed the file slightly and put it to another location: github.com/SensorsIot/Project-Box-Templates
@AndreasSpiess : Thank you!!! I have a question about your little box. If I change the dimensions - I'm facing a problem thats "Mirror1 - no target body" and "Chamfer1 - Edge 1 is missing". Do you konw how to fix these problems?
Thank you so much and have a good day!
I do not know. I use these files a lot an so far never had this message. Maybe you are somehow outside the (invisible) limits of the box. I would start with the original and change one dimension after the other to understand where the error starts to appear.
@@AndreasSpiess hello, thank you for your message. Yeah, I looked for the problem that I have.
Yesterday night I fixed it by myself. There was no mirror plate for the top.
Thank you for your work! Have a good weekend. Stay healthy und alles gute
@@danieltheshark Hi, please can you expain how you fixed this. Thank you
@@collindewitt1989 hi, you have to insert a mirror plate. RUclips will help you - look it up
@@collindewitt1989 Did you get it done?
Very nice to make this video, great job. Thank you.
You are welcome!
If I am not mistaken, Fusion 360 stopped offering free license. Any chance you could offer guidance using another open source CAD program? As always, I am not stop saying how thankful I am for your educational videos
I do not have such information. But I did not check recently. And on their homepage they still list a free version for personal use.
Great video as always. I really learned a lot since I discovered your channel, thank you so much.
What is the name of the pirce you put around the led on the last example? That's a nice touch.
Just search for „led holder“ on AliExpress
It's sad that I can put only one like to the video
Great work
Glad you liked it!
Another great helpful video. Thanks Andreas 🙏
You are welcome!
In order to make individual STLs for the various bodies at one time, you can right click on the name of the project on the top of the "BROWSER" on the left side. Click on "Save as STL" then in the dialog box change the "Structure" option to "One File Per Body"
You are right. Thank you!
@@AndreasSpiess The one annoying catch is if you have a group that is invisible, but the parts in the group are still flagged as visible, they will show up in your STLs despite not showing in your preview. It is not a huge problem, but my current project has something like 200 bodies in it so it is cumbersome to go through each group.
Thanks... nice video.
Fusion360 looks similar to Inventor... great dig out. Thanks again
I do not know Inventor. But it looks also similar to Solidworks...
@@AndreasSpiess Inventor is Autodesk's PC-based product. It is very similar since it has the same parent.
Excellent video. If you ever want to get rid of that hairspray forever go ahead and update to the Ultrabase glass bed cover. You will thank me later ;)
Can you provide me a link? But then you lose the ability to bend it, I assume?
@@AndreasSpiess No need to bend it or remove it ever anymore :) When it cools, the parts just pop off. You can buy on ebay, Ali etc. I have a video coming on it soon. Heres bangood example. 20-50 depending on your size usually. www.banggood.com/search/ultrabase.html?sbc=1
I recommend Tinkercad from Autodesk. It’s much easier and web browser based
I do not know it. But with my model, it is not very difficult to create a decent box, even in Autocad.
I got a prusa clone 3d printer a month ago and this is all most people will need, upgrade it with stuff on thingiverse. If you can't buy yet, learn designing on openScad, freecad, or others and import into Cura to learn slicing. Learn about different materials and temperatures. You will need to know all this after you buy any way. These will look like old dot matrix printers in the future, hoky. Color, multi-head is only starting. 3d printing is slow, taking hours. Key is anchoring your project to the bed.
OPENSCAD is really good for technical people, because you stay in programming and maths.
perfect video, very useful tips, thank you!!
You are welcome!
Thanks a trillion, Andreas!
You are welcome!
I was exactly looking to do this
Glad it was useful!
Great work
:-)
Nice Box
Thank you!
Very nice project 👍
@Mai Mariarti I usually make short comments to the videos I like
I use OctoPrint to control my printer (Mk2s) and Slic3r Prusa Edition for slicing and easy gcode transfer to the printer. It can upload directly to OctoPrint and start printing when it's done heating. And my home automation system automaticly turns off the printer when it's done printing but thats a story for another time :-)
Exactly! The Mk3 already has a connector for the Rpi and a zero is waiting in its box...
I also do the same. If the printer has finished and hasn't started again after a a set number of mins then it powers off. Good for those prints that takes a while and you don't want to see if it's finished. I also use pushbullet to notify me when completed and tasker on the phone to say it out loud. All controlled via Home Assistant.
Thank you sooo mcuh !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! awesome video !
You are welcome!
Hi thanks for the video. Are these boxes waterproof ?
No, not at all.
Thank you for the useful video, love your channel !!! What type of material is used by the 3D printer ?
Mostly PLA. Sometimes ABS
@@AndreasSpiess Do you see issues on the final product with PLA ? Does it deform overtime ?
I mainly print boxes and other not so critical stuff. So I had no problems.
Great video. Love it. What kind of black 9V socket do you use at 10:21 ? Thanks Andreas!
I ordered them a long time ago at AliExress
thank you - very usefull info
:-)
very cool, thank you very much.
You are welcome!
Beginner question but how do I delete for example both holes on the bottom sketch? I get an error "The profile reference is lost". Sure the extrude feature is missing the profiles now so is there a way to disable the extrude feature for this sketch? Many thanks for your reply, Vy 73 from Austria
Oh, shame on me!! Just deleted the extrude feature in the timeline and that works.
nice box template, thanks for sharing! However, there seems to be some sort of bug in the "parametric" section of the top cover - only one of the two holes can be deleted, the attempt to delete the 2nd hole returns a warning (being a fusion360 noob, though... :)
If you want to delete both holes you also have to delete the "extrusion" which comes with it.
Hi Andreas, Thank you for the useful information. What kind of Filament do you prefer for your boxes (PLA, ABS, PETG)?
I use PLA
After I edit dimensions Autodesk complains about Chamfer1 (and this thing on the lid to keep box closed disappears) and some other things. I think I managed to do this once in the past, but then I reinstalled windows, maybe new version of Fusion broke some things? :(
I do not know. But I use these files regularly, also in the new versions of Fusion.
I am having this same issue, I still use the same windows machine, but have since updated Fusion. I suspect its something with Fusion. I have not been able to figure this out why it does this. I printed the box anyway, and it still closes tight, just a slight bulge on the one side where the groove is missing in the base.
@@collindewitt1989 are you able to open it? I wasn't really able to even close it :/
This a great thanks mate
:-)
Nice video, but can you please balance the audio channel ? It sounds like your voice comes in majority from the left channel, either balancing the record or converting to mono would be great
You are right. I have to find out what happened. (I record mono)
Thanks Andreas. Nice when you have a 3d printer and ur in a rush...but....I just buy a dozen or so sized boxes from aliexpress for $0.70 each.
Kwazar can you recommend one?
Also a possibility. I like that the openings are already "printed" and that I can adapt to any size.
@@AndreasSpiess I am thankful andreas showed me his setup. Pity the aliexpress url was deleted.
EXCELLENT VIDEO many thanks now i'll have to dust off the ole prusa
Good idea!
@Andreas Spiess Slightly off topic but I noticed your bench meter, I am looking for a bench meter (I have a couple good multimeters if I need accuracy) but if I'm doing measurements over time multimeters are annoying when they turn off etc. What do you think of that particular unit? Cheers
It is a Uni-T 804
cool stuff Andreas...i need to get a 3d printer to make stuff to house my projects...theyre still out of my price range tho :(
you can get a reasonable printer for a couple of hundred bucks now, not too bad.
You'll love Prusa original, high quality and amazing community. Had a problem (filament broke off) and within the hour I had a real solution.
Don't know your budget but look at ender3 for cheap ok quality. However 3d printing is not a tinker free operation
@@sledgeHammerRulez or make one 😀
I can recommend the Ender 3, aside from the warped bed and thermal block protection that was gone quickly it is a very good printer for the price
"Hide the mistakes from wife." A temporary solution at best! 😊
You are so right!
Hi Andreas, I just printed the top for this project and it is perfect however, one of the latches on the base dissapears when resizing so I cannot print this! I assume Fusion has changed in some way since you designed this? Would be very much apreciated if you could take a look.. Best wishes, Wal...
I replaced the old file with the one I currently use. Maybe it works...
@@AndreasSpiess thank you very much..
Thanks Andreas.
:-)
Awesome!!!!!
Thanks!!