Hi, I confirm that the 10MicroF/50Volts capacitor was the culprit. I got the AstroAI LY1906 Model, with the same problem of the flickering light in the front. Just change the capacitor and way to go. If you can acquire the rest of the capacitors, like the video says, change all... but in my case, just with changing the 10Micro/50 Volts Capacitor do the work. For the tech you out there, i test the bad capacitor and mark 9.75 microF, so i change it. Thanks Jack for the video advice.
Was given an AstroAI LY204A mini-fridge to look at. This model has no lights at the front. When I turned it on, all I got was a flickering LED on both the warm and cool setting. The transformer was also making noises. Looked at all the caps (2x 1000uF 25v, 1x 33uF 400V and 1x 10uF 50V) and they seemed fine. So I desoldered all caps from the PSU and measured them with my multi-meter (AstroAI DT132A) in Capacitance mode. They seemed to measure fine (was displaying close enough to the expected values). I had some spare PSU boards lying around that I took from some dead TVs I couldn't fix. Unfortunately, I couldn't find any similar caps to the 1000uF and 33uF ones. There was a 10uF 50V cap on the board, however. So I decided to desolder that from the TV PSU board and solder it to the fridge PSU just to see what happened. Surprisingly, the fridge now powers on immediately and stays on (both settings). The PSU is also quiet now. So it seems like the issue was just a cap problem. I will be replacing all caps soon. Just wanted to see if I could get a quick fix without having to wait for parts. I am now testing its cooling function. I am not sure if it's working properly though. It is cooling, but it seems to be cooling very slow. I'm measuring the inside temp with my multi-meter. Room temp is 20C and after a few hours the temp inside the fridge dropped to just 16C. I am not sure how long these take to cool. Any ideas what might be causing slow cooling, or is slow cooling normal if it's been off for a long time? How can you tell if the cooling function is working properly/as expected?
Hey thanks. I found this same fridge at a thrift store for a couple bucks. The 12v side works fine but the 110v does the same as yours.... I was actually looking for diy stuff and this popped up.
Likely is the same issue. I purchased a couple of Budweiser units to use the parts to make cold cup holders for my truck. One of them had the issue, brand new, straight out of the box, lol! Seems very common.
Hi, thank you for posting this! I have this same mini and it doesn't get cold at all. Instead it was hot. Bought it on fb market the other day plugged it in and put cold setting on. Green light on back works and three mode lighting on front mirror works... Just wondering what would you recommend to solve this issue? Any advice or suggestions are appreciated. Thank you!
Thank you for the great video. I have a HomeCraft mini fridge that looks very similar, but won’t heat or cook and the fan doesn’t run at all. Would those same components work in mine ?
My daughter has same fridge and fan started making strange noise when cooling is activated and barely spinning. I’m planing to replace the fan and existing label only specifies 12DC Brushless Fan. When I search on amazon for fan, some of them specify ampers. Any idea ?
Hello so my mini refrigerator stop working the lights come on from the mirror but for the hot and cold the lights don’t turn on and dosent get cold Or hot could you pls help me
Without diagnosing the issue properly, replacing the power supply is just guessing. There is nothing wrong with the original other than the caps. It would be cheaper and easier to just fix the original power supply. If you must do it the hard way then your power supply will work it's 12v and has a wattage rating higher than the label on the back of the fridge.
I have been soldering since I was 8 years old so it's easy for me. What I do is melt the solder on 1 side and tilt the cap UP on that side. I then do the same on the other and repeat until it's off. This way you are going quickly to keep the heat out of the board and not trying to suck the solder up which can also overheat the board. Install is the same. Melt one side and run the cap through and then use fresh solder when done to make it nice and clean. Note- caps have a mark on them and on the board for polarity. If you put it on backwards it will likely explode.
I moved from Ohio to Florida and seems my mini fridge broke along the trip and now has this surging issue with the light. The fan spins fine. I’m compfortable trying to solder (even thought I’ve never done it before) but is it worth money wise to buy a soldering kit for this or is it cheaper to get a new fridge
Hey Mr. Jack.. This isn't fridge related, but hoping I post this on a newer video, and you get the change to answer. Can you talk about transmission failures. I understand the 2009 failures, but for other failures, do you attribute them to poor maintenance (i.e differntial/transmission fluids not being changed often enough), mileage, too much horsepower and torque, or abusing the car (i.e, constantly using launch control). I'm wondering because i'm the owner of a stock 2012 GT-R with over 120K miles.. and never had any transmission issues. I'm "finally" considering modding (fairly conservative), just maybe a mid-pipe, airbox, and perhaps a new fuel pump and injectors, but don't want to grenade the transmission. Also.. are there many changes in the transmission hardware between years of the GT-R? Thanks so much. If I ever have an issue with my transmission, i'll definitely be calling you guys.. or driving up if I can still drive. Or.. as a precaution for mods.
Hey sorry I don't really check messages here. Email me directly at shop@jackstransmissions.com and I can help there as it would be more consistent as I check my email every day.
Hi, I have a mini fridge I’ll like to fix also but it’s very complicated for me since I don’t have money or the supplies it seems the power for turning it burned down so could I ask if you could check it out if I send it to you through mail and you could fix it for me?
By chance, do you still have the links? I'm going to attempt to fix my lady's makeup fridge, and I want to make sure I get the right parts.....great video BTW
Yes. Here are some links. Took awhile to get them as they were coming straight from China but they showed up within a couple weeks: www.ebay.com/itm/193001387507?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=0ZtdoCRyTEe&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=3KSmUG6LQVO&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY At the link above I ordered the 50v @ 10uf and the 5v @ 1000uf in their options menu. At the next link below: www.ebay.com/itm/254297921336?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=mQcrK3z7SoK&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=3KSmUG6LQVO&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY I ordered the 250v @ 100uf from their options menu. Make sure you have a power supply issue before ordering. If the power supply seems weak then it’s definitely caps. Nothing else really goes wrong with the power supply other than that. Solder joints are usually not great and could use a reflow in some spots. Easy way to verify if it’s power supply is to detach the output 12v wires from the power supply and then attach the 12v car adapter and see if it works. If it does then the power supply needs attention. If it still doesn’t work then something else is a problem. The switches on the back can be finicky and cause intermittent power issues too. Good luck!
Hi, I confirm that the 10MicroF/50Volts capacitor was the culprit. I got the AstroAI LY1906 Model, with the same problem of the flickering light in the front. Just change the capacitor and way to go. If you can acquire the rest of the capacitors, like the video says, change all... but in my case, just with changing the 10Micro/50 Volts Capacitor do the work. For the tech you out there, i test the bad capacitor and mark 9.75 microF, so i change it. Thanks Jack for the video advice.
Same. It is just discharging that cap in seconds and recharging so that is why it is flashing.
Was given an AstroAI LY204A mini-fridge to look at. This model has no lights at the front. When I turned it on, all I got was a flickering LED on both the warm and cool setting. The transformer was also making noises. Looked at all the caps (2x 1000uF 25v, 1x 33uF 400V and 1x 10uF 50V) and they seemed fine. So I desoldered all caps from the PSU and measured them with my multi-meter (AstroAI DT132A) in Capacitance mode. They seemed to measure fine (was displaying close enough to the expected values).
I had some spare PSU boards lying around that I took from some dead TVs I couldn't fix. Unfortunately, I couldn't find any similar caps to the 1000uF and 33uF ones. There was a 10uF 50V cap on the board, however. So I decided to desolder that from the TV PSU board and solder it to the fridge PSU just to see what happened. Surprisingly, the fridge now powers on immediately and stays on (both settings). The PSU is also quiet now. So it seems like the issue was just a cap problem. I will be replacing all caps soon. Just wanted to see if I could get a quick fix without having to wait for parts.
I am now testing its cooling function. I am not sure if it's working properly though. It is cooling, but it seems to be cooling very slow. I'm measuring the inside temp with my multi-meter. Room temp is 20C and after a few hours the temp inside the fridge dropped to just 16C. I am not sure how long these take to cool. Any ideas what might be causing slow cooling, or is slow cooling normal if it's been off for a long time? How can you tell if the cooling function is working properly/as expected?
Hey thanks. I found this same fridge at a thrift store for a couple bucks. The 12v side works fine but the 110v does the same as yours.... I was actually looking for diy stuff and this popped up.
My daughter's just stopped working all together no light no power no nothing
I have a similar model and a coke edition, both probably have the same problem, thanks for the video!
Likely is the same issue. I purchased a couple of Budweiser units to use the parts to make cold cup holders for my truck. One of them had the issue, brand new, straight out of the box, lol! Seems very common.
Thank you for the tips 👍👍👍👍
Hi, thank you for posting this! I have this same mini and it doesn't get cold at all. Instead it was hot. Bought it on fb market the other day plugged it in and put cold setting on. Green light on back works and three mode lighting on front mirror works... Just wondering what would you recommend to solve this issue? Any advice or suggestions are appreciated. Thank you!
Thank you for the great video. I have a HomeCraft mini fridge that looks very similar, but won’t heat or cook and the fan doesn’t run at all. Would those same components work in mine ?
My daughter has same fridge and fan started making strange noise when cooling is activated and barely spinning. I’m planing to replace the fan and existing label only specifies 12DC Brushless Fan. When I search on amazon for fan, some of them specify ampers. Any idea ?
Any idea how I can get the light from turning on, on it’s own and flashing?
Thanks so much.
Hello so my mini refrigerator stop working the lights come on from the mirror but for the hot and cold the lights don’t turn on and dosent get cold
Or hot could you pls help me
The switch with the LED lights burned out in my unit. Do you know where I could buy a new circuit board with the switch and the lights?
I have the same mini fridge that the cooler stop working. How can I fix it?
Thanks for the video. By any chance you still have caps you use to make it work left. I would like purchase your left overs.
Can please help me sir where can I go to fixed it my light is not working
What video camera were you using?
My led light turns on when I plug it in but when I turn on the cold setting it turns on completely and the green light on the back flickers once
You have successfully repaired probably the least efficient system designed to cool stuff. Congratulations.
Your the one who clicked the video smartass
So i have a mini fridge the doesn't cooling or heating so i thought to replace the power supply with 65w laptop charger does it work?
Without diagnosing the issue properly, replacing the power supply is just guessing. There is nothing wrong with the original other than the caps. It would be cheaper and easier to just fix the original power supply.
If you must do it the hard way then your power supply will work it's 12v and has a wattage rating higher than the label on the back of the fridge.
How do you take the caps out and replace? I don’t want to do any additional damage?
I have been soldering since I was 8 years old so it's easy for me. What I do is melt the solder on 1 side and tilt the cap UP on that side. I then do the same on the other and repeat until it's off. This way you are going quickly to keep the heat out of the board and not trying to suck the solder up which can also overheat the board. Install is the same. Melt one side and run the cap through and then use fresh solder when done to make it nice and clean. Note- caps have a mark on them and on the board for polarity. If you put it on backwards it will likely explode.
I moved from Ohio to Florida and seems my mini fridge broke along the trip and now has this surging issue with the light. The fan spins fine. I’m compfortable trying to solder (even thought I’ve never done it before) but is it worth money wise to buy a soldering kit for this or is it cheaper to get a new fridge
Might be more expensive to buy a soldering kit and you might not even fix the problem. But you learn a new skill along the way which money can’t buy
Hey Mr. Jack.. This isn't fridge related, but hoping I post this on a newer video, and you get the change to answer. Can you talk about transmission failures. I understand the 2009 failures, but for other failures, do you attribute them to poor maintenance (i.e differntial/transmission fluids not being changed often enough), mileage, too much horsepower and torque, or abusing the car (i.e, constantly using launch control). I'm wondering because i'm the owner of a stock 2012 GT-R with over 120K miles.. and never had any transmission issues. I'm "finally" considering modding (fairly conservative), just maybe a mid-pipe, airbox, and perhaps a new fuel pump and injectors, but don't want to grenade the transmission. Also.. are there many changes in the transmission hardware between years of the GT-R? Thanks so much. If I ever have an issue with my transmission, i'll definitely be calling you guys.. or driving up if I can still drive. Or.. as a precaution for mods.
Hey sorry I don't really check messages here. Email me directly at shop@jackstransmissions.com and I can help there as it would be more consistent as I check my email every day.
Mine blinks once and than does nothing, what does that mean.
I don't see the 5v @ 1000 on the ebay link is it 50?
Yes 50
Hi, I have a mini fridge I’ll like to fix also but it’s very complicated for me since I don’t have money or the supplies it seems the power for turning it burned down so could I ask if you could check it out if I send it to you through mail and you could fix it for me?
Mine's doing that. Imma fix it.
By chance, do you still have the links? I'm going to attempt to fix my lady's makeup fridge, and I want to make sure I get the right parts.....great video BTW
Yes. Here are some links. Took awhile to get them as they were coming straight from China but they showed up within a couple weeks:
www.ebay.com/itm/193001387507?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=0ZtdoCRyTEe&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=3KSmUG6LQVO&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
At the link above I ordered the 50v @ 10uf and the 5v @ 1000uf in their options menu.
At the next link below:
www.ebay.com/itm/254297921336?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=mQcrK3z7SoK&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=3KSmUG6LQVO&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
I ordered the 250v @ 100uf from their options menu.
Make sure you have a power supply issue before ordering. If the power supply seems weak then it’s definitely caps. Nothing else really goes wrong with the power supply other than that. Solder joints are usually not great and could use a reflow in some spots.
Easy way to verify if it’s power supply is to detach the output 12v wires from the power supply and then attach the 12v car adapter and see if it works. If it does then the power supply needs attention. If it still doesn’t work then something else is a problem.
The switches on the back can be finicky and cause intermittent power issues too.
Good luck!