We have a sprinkler head in the center of our lawn that I would like to convert to drip for a nearby tree. Would it be safe to bury method 2 so that it's not popping up in the middle of the lawn?
You bet! The filter and regulator are rated for direct burial -- the backflow preventer we used in the video is not, but there's a very good chance you already have backflow prevention in place for the sprinkler system. I'd recommend using a small valve box to house them in -- the parts are pretty small and should fit comfortably in the smaller valve boxes.
You bet! We've got quite a few different videos that show that part -- happy to link the best one. What kind of system/plants will this be for: containers, raised beds, row crops, or a little of everything?
@@Jay-z2x Ah, I see you've also emailed us about that! If you haven't yet, email us the length and width of the flower beds in that same email thread and we'll be able to help you start narrowing things like that down :)
some brands (toro?) have even an other option available just changing the headset inside the sprinkler for a sixtuple connection for 6mm microtubes i.e.
You've got the right of it! Toro's, I believe, is called Spray to Drip Retrofit Kit and it works with their 570 Series sprays -- the current model includes a threaded 25 PSI pressure regulator that even allows larger tubing sizes to be used if it will be a larger zone :)
i found in Aldi or Lidl workzone brand pants having large knee pockets for insertion of knee protectors for gardening or even MTB/motorbike riding of course they also have many other pockets for tools. advantage: no constriction of blood circulation around knees & they keep in place better.
Do you know how many emitters in total you have in your 1/4" line? Most regulators require a minimum flow rate of about 30 GPH in order to begin regulating correctly -- under that amount and it might not be regulating the line. Also, check the PSI of the regulator, 1/4" drip line works best at around 25 PSI. Is the 1/4" hose soaker hose (porous across its entire length) or drip line (holes with emitters beneath them at evenly spaced intervals, usually 6", 9", or 12")? If it's a soaker hose type, a regulator may not help as soaker hoses aren't pressurized like other types of irrigation. Happy to help either way if the above doesn't get you up and running :)
Thank you for the excellent video! For a fairly flat plot with little to no slope , what is the recommended maximum length of the main dripline (1/2 inch) that can be connected to a single spray head outlet?
The spacing of the drip line and flow rate of the emitters will also influence the maximum run length, but a good general (and safe) answer is 200'. If it's a wider spacing (12" to 24") and lower flow emitters (0.5 GPH) it can go longer than 200'. What kind of row length did you have in mind? Happy to run some numbers and let you know what type of spacing/flow would work out :)
Thank you for the quick response. The plan is to run a 1/2 inch mainline close to the fence and then connect 1/4 inch pipes with emitter heads to around 20 flowering pots.
@@tiginsamuel That definitely sounds doable from a converted sprinkler riser -- unless that 1/2" mainline is going to be very long (with 20 pots, it could easily be 200' long, possibly more) this will be well within the green. :)
as of now, i found a new reason for gravity impulsed fertirrigation drip systems: i'll try to include a garden pond into it as a deposit because of my observation of how good plants & seeds do fertirrigating them by aquarium water due to its microorganisms making its fertilizer bioavailable inmediately. i'll just have to figure out how to use its water w/o losing its microorganisms stored in elevated deposits (or fertirrigation inyectors instead of?). anyway, inserted adjustable micro sprinklers need less pressure as the usual 16mm tubes w/ equalized valves (1,3 bar min.) for just 2m+ high elevated deposits. In aliexpress, i found solar pumps w/ panels for just 5,5€ (5V, 280 L/h in best conditions)
Wolfgang, you've got the right of it with aquarium water! A colleague of mine has found a dual use that's interesting -- he's using his aquarium (it's a very large one) for his seedlings. The lights keep the soil warm so that they can sprout, and the aquarium water has enough nutrients to keep them growing after they sprout their "true leaves." It's a great setup that makes sense for the exact reasons you noted.
now i had idea how to grow parthenocarpic varieties outside of greenhouses, where they'd be polinated - IF WE DON'T CUTTHEIR FLOWERS OFF BEFORE leaving just their unpolinated fruits. on my balcony, of course, i'll also cultivate cucumbers variety puccini due to no one else would do so in the neighborhood. quite difficult finding such varieties , just found from ucraine by etsy,. ginoecious calypso has amazon i.e. for 1,5€ each seed!@@dripdepot
james fry uses such system w/ water deposit below the soil w/ a pump working by a timer for moving the fertirrigation above through the tubes w/ valves@@dripdepot
other idea how to avoid polinization of parthenocarpic varieties (cucumbers...)by wind or insects: cutting their flowers off if not in greenhouses, but outside@@dripdepot
Great question -- it is generally recommended to cap off the other heads. This is because the run time of a law/turf system tends to be much shorter than the run time of a drip system. If you ran cycles for the lawn, the drip wouldn't put out enough, and if you ran the cycles for drip, the lawn would get way too much water. With that said, we have seen folks that run with it uncapped -- they tend to use higher flow drip emitters (micro sprinklers, spray jets, etc) or use a higher quantity of drippers so the plants fed by the drip system get enough water. It makes the drip lose a bit of its efficiency, but not extremely so. I'd say in most cases it's best to cap them off, but if that isn't viable, it can be planned around to some degree :)
You bet, conversion is compatible with a Rachio system -- if you already have the controller and everything it works out great, as that zone can simply become your drip zone and you can adjust programming as needed. For the second question, is that in regards to smart watering, where the controller automatically adjusts the duration based on local precipitation? I haven't used a Rachio myself (they're good controllers though), but I have used some other smart controllers (Hydrawise and Bhyve) and the process is the same, so might be for the Rachio too -- in the app, you can turn on smart watering and this will adjust watering cycles, both duration and frequency, based on local cloud weather data :) You'll want to make sure to identify the various zones as either drip or turf, as drip will need longer cycles, but smart controllers should be able to recognize that so long as you designate the drip zone as a drip zone.
@@dripdepot thank you so much for the detailed response! I just realized a possible problem I might face with this though. I have about four heads on the zone that I wanted to use. I planned on moving the other 3 heads to their own zone and converting the single head to use as drip irrigation for my beds. I'm no expert but wouldn't all four of those heads be hooked up to a single main line coming from the underground sprinkler control box? So basically I wouldn't be able to move the extra heads but would instead be forced to cap them off and figure out another way to water the lawn that that zone covers. Am I correct in my hypothesis or way off?
@@siriusbusiness2351 You've got it all exactly right! Your instincts for this are good :) That means the options basically are: cap off all the heads or risers that you're not converting to drip, or dig install another valve and cut into the existing pipe to move the other sprinkler heads to their own zone. The second option is generally best if you want to continue to use the others for the turf -- this also allows you to run the drip zone longer while keeping the shorter lawn cycles.
You may not need one either way -- if it's an existing sprinkler system, there's a very good chance you'll have backflow prevention already in case. We do include one with our conversion kits out of an abundance of caution. Every municipality has different rules on backflow preventer, and they can vary to a large degree (though they do all agree that it's necessary). We include them in the conversion kits just to be on the safe side, as some places will require them. Basically, you might not need an additional one either way if some is already present (and if it's converting an existing system, there should be), but do double check with local water officials to make sure :)
Great question! For the most part it comes down to how far away from the converted riser the plants are, and how much flow you're going to have. The manifold is great for plants that are closer and lower flow. The full on head assembly is the go to when plants are further away (usually more than 30' away) or you need significantly more flow for microsprinklers or other higher flow emitters. Basically, if it's going to be a pretty big system covering multiple parts of the yard, go with the full head assembly conversion so you can use larger (1/2" +) diameter tubing -- if it's for a cluster of nearby plants, the manifold will get the job done :)
@@Jay-z2x We have mainline head assemblies for 1/4', 1/2", 3/4" and 1" tubing sizes -- the 1/4" head assembly is most often used for a small potted plant setup with a nearby hose bib -- it's not limited to that, but just it's most common use. On the same order where you ordered the 1/4" 25 PSI head assembly kit, I see you also got a couple larger kits -- each of those kits will also come with a full head assembly, so you may not need to order anything else unless you specifically need to make one more at a converted riser -- if you do need one more for the riser, the only part you should need is the FHTS x Tubing Adapter for the size of tubing you want to use (sounds like 1/2" in this case).
1/2" tubing is capable of going further than 50', so you might even be able to go further than that depending on the flow rate (friction loss is a mechanism of both linear distance and flow in GPM or GPH). At lower flow rates 1/2" tubing can go pretty far without experiencing significant pressure lost from friction.
very clear instruction, thank you for the great content
You're very welcome, thank you for watching and the kind words as well! :)
Great video! Thank you so much for simplifying this whole process!
You're very welcome, thank you for the great comment!
Great video man, this is exactly what we needed! Thank you!
Great way to start my Monday, thank you!
Thanks for this well done and informative video. It helped me a lot!
Thank you Andrew! On a Friday afternoon no less, perfect timing :)
Have yourself a great weekend!
Pumped to do this. Thank you!
We have a sprinkler head in the center of our lawn that I would like to convert to drip for a nearby tree. Would it be safe to bury method 2 so that it's not popping up in the middle of the lawn?
You bet! The filter and regulator are rated for direct burial -- the backflow preventer we used in the video is not, but there's a very good chance you already have backflow prevention in place for the sprinkler system. I'd recommend using a small valve box to house them in -- the parts are pretty small and should fit comfortably in the smaller valve boxes.
Can you show the next step where you connect the mainline head to the house and put it out to the plants
You bet! We've got quite a few different videos that show that part -- happy to link the best one. What kind of system/plants will this be for: containers, raised beds, row crops, or a little of everything?
@@dripdepot flower beds on the outside of a 3k sq ft property
@@Jay-z2x Ah, I see you've also emailed us about that! If you haven't yet, email us the length and width of the flower beds in that same email thread and we'll be able to help you start narrowing things like that down :)
some brands (toro?) have even an other option available just changing the headset inside the sprinkler for a sixtuple connection for 6mm microtubes i.e.
You've got the right of it! Toro's, I believe, is called Spray to Drip Retrofit Kit and it works with their 570 Series sprays -- the current model includes a threaded 25 PSI pressure regulator that even allows larger tubing sizes to be used if it will be a larger zone :)
EXCELLENT VIDEO! Thanks for getting right into it and not wasting our time. And wonderful info! I’m saving this video for sure!! 🪴
You bet, thank your for watching and your wonderful comment as well!
Very informative!
i found in Aldi or Lidl workzone brand pants having large knee pockets for insertion of knee protectors for gardening or even MTB/motorbike riding of course they also have many other pockets for tools. advantage: no constriction of blood circulation around knees & they keep in place better.
Thank you! I did this, used a regulator but there is still too much pressure for 1/4” hose 😣 any thoughts?
Do you know how many emitters in total you have in your 1/4" line? Most regulators require a minimum flow rate of about 30 GPH in order to begin regulating correctly -- under that amount and it might not be regulating the line. Also, check the PSI of the regulator, 1/4" drip line works best at around 25 PSI.
Is the 1/4" hose soaker hose (porous across its entire length) or drip line (holes with emitters beneath them at evenly spaced intervals, usually 6", 9", or 12")? If it's a soaker hose type, a regulator may not help as soaker hoses aren't pressurized like other types of irrigation.
Happy to help either way if the above doesn't get you up and running :)
Thank you for the excellent video! For a fairly flat plot with little to no slope , what is the recommended maximum length of the main dripline (1/2 inch) that can be connected to a single spray head outlet?
The spacing of the drip line and flow rate of the emitters will also influence the maximum run length, but a good general (and safe) answer is 200'. If it's a wider spacing (12" to 24") and lower flow emitters (0.5 GPH) it can go longer than 200'.
What kind of row length did you have in mind? Happy to run some numbers and let you know what type of spacing/flow would work out :)
Thank you for the quick response. The plan is to run a 1/2 inch mainline close to the fence and then connect 1/4 inch pipes with emitter heads to around 20 flowering pots.
@@tiginsamuel That definitely sounds doable from a converted sprinkler riser -- unless that 1/2" mainline is going to be very long (with 20 pots, it could easily be 200' long, possibly more) this will be well within the green. :)
as of now, i found a new reason for gravity impulsed fertirrigation drip systems: i'll try to include a garden pond into it as a deposit because of my observation of how good plants & seeds do fertirrigating them by aquarium water due to its microorganisms making its fertilizer bioavailable inmediately. i'll just have to figure out how to use its water w/o losing its microorganisms stored in elevated deposits (or fertirrigation inyectors instead of?). anyway, inserted adjustable micro sprinklers need less pressure as the usual 16mm tubes w/ equalized valves (1,3 bar min.) for just 2m+ high elevated deposits. In aliexpress, i found solar pumps w/ panels for just 5,5€ (5V, 280 L/h in best conditions)
Wolfgang, you've got the right of it with aquarium water! A colleague of mine has found a dual use that's interesting -- he's using his aquarium (it's a very large one) for his seedlings. The lights keep the soil warm so that they can sprout, and the aquarium water has enough nutrients to keep them growing after they sprout their "true leaves." It's a great setup that makes sense for the exact reasons you noted.
now i had idea how to grow parthenocarpic varieties outside of greenhouses, where they'd be polinated - IF WE DON'T CUTTHEIR FLOWERS OFF BEFORE leaving just their unpolinated fruits. on my balcony, of course, i'll also cultivate cucumbers variety puccini due to no one else would do so in the neighborhood. quite difficult finding such varieties , just found from ucraine by etsy,. ginoecious calypso has amazon i.e. for 1,5€ each seed!@@dripdepot
i'd fix a fuel saver (4€ aliexpress) around the filter's tube(s) even for more fertirrigation efficiency.@@dripdepot
james fry uses such system w/ water deposit below the soil w/ a pump working by a timer for moving the fertirrigation above through the tubes w/ valves@@dripdepot
other idea how to avoid polinization of parthenocarpic varieties (cucumbers...)by wind or insects: cutting their flowers off if not in greenhouses, but outside@@dripdepot
@dripdepot with the manifold style head conversion, will I still
Need to either cap off or also convert all other sprinkler heads on that zone?
Great question -- it is generally recommended to cap off the other heads. This is because the run time of a law/turf system tends to be much shorter than the run time of a drip system. If you ran cycles for the lawn, the drip wouldn't put out enough, and if you ran the cycles for drip, the lawn would get way too much water.
With that said, we have seen folks that run with it uncapped -- they tend to use higher flow drip emitters (micro sprinklers, spray jets, etc) or use a higher quantity of drippers so the plants fed by the drip system get enough water. It makes the drip lose a bit of its efficiency, but not extremely so.
I'd say in most cases it's best to cap them off, but if that isn't viable, it can be planned around to some degree :)
Can this be used with a rachio sprinkler system? Is there a way to make a single zone run for as long as is required if it hasn't rained in a while?
You bet, conversion is compatible with a Rachio system -- if you already have the controller and everything it works out great, as that zone can simply become your drip zone and you can adjust programming as needed.
For the second question, is that in regards to smart watering, where the controller automatically adjusts the duration based on local precipitation? I haven't used a Rachio myself (they're good controllers though), but I have used some other smart controllers (Hydrawise and Bhyve) and the process is the same, so might be for the Rachio too -- in the app, you can turn on smart watering and this will adjust watering cycles, both duration and frequency, based on local cloud weather data :)
You'll want to make sure to identify the various zones as either drip or turf, as drip will need longer cycles, but smart controllers should be able to recognize that so long as you designate the drip zone as a drip zone.
@@dripdepot thank you so much for the detailed response! I just realized a possible problem I might face with this though.
I have about four heads on the zone that I wanted to use. I planned on moving the other 3 heads to their own zone and converting the single head to use as drip irrigation for my beds. I'm no expert but wouldn't all four of those heads be hooked up to a single main line coming from the underground sprinkler control box? So basically I wouldn't be able to move the extra heads but would instead be forced to cap them off and figure out another way to water the lawn that that zone covers. Am I correct in my hypothesis or way off?
@@siriusbusiness2351 You've got it all exactly right! Your instincts for this are good :)
That means the options basically are: cap off all the heads or risers that you're not converting to drip, or dig install another valve and cut into the existing pipe to move the other sprinkler heads to their own zone. The second option is generally best if you want to continue to use the others for the turf -- this also allows you to run the drip zone longer while keeping the shorter lawn cycles.
do we not need a backflow preventer for the first case?
You may not need one either way -- if it's an existing sprinkler system, there's a very good chance you'll have backflow prevention already in case. We do include one with our conversion kits out of an abundance of caution. Every municipality has different rules on backflow preventer, and they can vary to a large degree (though they do all agree that it's necessary). We include them in the conversion kits just to be on the safe side, as some places will require them.
Basically, you might not need an additional one either way if some is already present (and if it's converting an existing system, there should be), but do double check with local water officials to make sure :)
How do we decide between manifold and head?
Great question! For the most part it comes down to how far away from the converted riser the plants are, and how much flow you're going to have. The manifold is great for plants that are closer and lower flow. The full on head assembly is the go to when plants are further away (usually more than 30' away) or you need significantly more flow for microsprinklers or other higher flow emitters.
Basically, if it's going to be a pretty big system covering multiple parts of the yard, go with the full head assembly conversion so you can use larger (1/2" +) diameter tubing -- if it's for a cluster of nearby plants, the manifold will get the job done :)
@ so why did the head assembly you sell come with 1/4 inch tubing adapter?
@@Jay-z2x We have mainline head assemblies for 1/4', 1/2", 3/4" and 1" tubing sizes -- the 1/4" head assembly is most often used for a small potted plant setup with a nearby hose bib -- it's not limited to that, but just it's most common use.
On the same order where you ordered the 1/4" 25 PSI head assembly kit, I see you also got a couple larger kits -- each of those kits will also come with a full head assembly, so you may not need to order anything else unless you specifically need to make one more at a converted riser -- if you do need one more for the riser, the only part you should need is the FHTS x Tubing Adapter for the size of tubing you want to use (sounds like 1/2" in this case).
@ so why is the one in the video used to replace pop up?
@ I just want to head assembly for pop up 1/2 tubing not a kit
So when using the mainline head we only need one or every 50 ft you place one?
1/2" tubing is capable of going further than 50', so you might even be able to go further than that depending on the flow rate (friction loss is a mechanism of both linear distance and flow in GPM or GPH). At lower flow rates 1/2" tubing can go pretty far without experiencing significant pressure lost from friction.