How to Install a Tree Drip Irrigation System | Tree Rings (Complete DIY Beginner's Guide)
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- Опубликовано: 26 июн 2024
- Adam shows you how drip irrigation can give you that time back and, at the same time, help promote healthy, vibrant trees.
Shop our Tree Irrigation Kits: www.dripdepot.com/drip-irriga...
If you want to use the exact kit we used in this video, we used a slightly modified Basic Drip Irrigation Kit for Trees: www.dripdepot.com/product/bas...
Whether it’s a long run of arborvitae or an orchard of young fruit trees, it can be difficult and time consuming to hand water them all. With only so many hours in a day you’re faced with spending too much time watering trees or risking their health by not delivering sufficient water. Drip Irrigation is the solution.
Explore our selection of Drip Irrigation Kits: www.dripdepot.com/category/dr...
How to Design a Drip Irrigation System: • How to Design a Drip I...
Tree Kit Selection Guide: help.dripdepot.com/support/so...
Planning a Drip Irrigation System Guide: help.dripdepot.com/support/so...
Tree Drip Irrigation Sample Layouts: help.dripdepot.com/support/so...
Read more about Orchard Irrigation: help.dripdepot.com/support/so...
Tools used:
- ✂️ Scissors
- Tubing Cutter: www.dripdepot.com/product/pol...
- Standard 1/4" Punch: www.dripdepot.com/product/sta...
Parts list:
Head Assembly:
- Hose End Irrigation Timer: www.dripdepot.com/item/hose-e...
- Hendrickson Bros J10 Vacuum Breaker (Backflow Preventer): www.dripdepot.com/bros-j10-ho...
3/4" GHT Canister Filter: www.dripdepot.com/three-quart...
- Senninger 3/4" GHT 25 PSI Pressure Regulator: www.dripdepot.com/three-quart...
- 3/4" FHTS x 1/2" Poly Tubing Adapter: www.dripdepot.com/perma-loc-t...
Tubing:
- 1/2" Polyethylene Tubing: www.dripdepot.com/polyethylen...
- 1/4" Poly Tubing: www.dripdepot.com/polyethylen...
- 1/4" Poly Dripling 12" Spacing 0.5 GPH: www.dripdepot.com/quarter-inc...
Emitters:
- 1/4" Barbed Tubing Coupling Valve: www.dripdepot.com/barb-tubing...
Fittings:
- 1/2" Tubing Elbow: www.dripdepot.com/perma-loc-t...
- 1/2" Tubing Tee: www.dripdepot.com/perma-loc-t...
- 1/2" Tubing End Cap: www.dripdepot.com/perma-loc-t...
- 1/4" Barbed Tubing Coupling: www.dripdepot.com/barb-tubing...
- 1/4" Barbed Tubing Tee: www.dripdepot.com/barb-tubing...
- 1/4" Goof Plug: www.dripdepot.com/goof-plug-s...
Misc.:
- 8" Galvanized Steel Wire Stake for 1/2" Tubing: www.dripdepot.com/product/8-i...
- Durable Foam Knee Pads: www.dripdepot.com/product/dur...
TIMESTAMPS:
00:00 - Intro
00:44 - How to Design a Tree Irrigation System
04:51 - Organizing Parts
05:08 - Parts Overview
06:28 - Leave Tubing in Sun Before Install
06:41 - Connecting System to Hose Bib
08:27 - Installing Mainline Poly Tubing
08:55 - Tips for Adding Fittings to Tubing
09:50 - Flushing Mainline
10:48 - Creating Tree Rings
12:10 - How to Create Tree Rings while Indoors or Sitting Down
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Хобби
Those are some good looking chickens you hired for your "extras!" 🐓 🐓 🐓
The property owner, whoever she may be, raised some mighty fine chickens! Omelette was a treat to work with and a true professional 😁
Great video, just in time!!
Glad we got this one out in time for the season this year, thank you for watching! :)
I like that.
Just in time! Starting to lay out a design and have a couple of trees and 3 hydrangeas that could really use the ring. Was wondering what I was going to do for them. Thanks!
We are so happy to hear that you found the video helpful! Should you ever have any questions, please don't hesitate to reach out to our customer service team ---> help.dripdepot.com/support/tickets/new
Thanks for all the helpful videos!! If I don't want to bury the main line, (I have a long run to a back tree in hard ground) what is the easiest way to unhook the line so I can mow when needed? Also, what is the best tubing size for 6 foot pine trees that are 2 years old? Is the 1/4" drip line just fine? I have very hard, but sandy soil. (I live in dry Colorado)
Great question Anne, I would saw lawn mowers are probably the #2 cause of damaged lines (with doggos being number 1).
If you're using the Perma-Loc fittings, the part that connects the tubing to the head assembly will typically have a swivel on it, so it's pretty easy to remove -- the swivel allows you to turn just that part so that it can be removed without turning everything.
Here's a link to the fitting I'm describing above: www.dripdepot.com/1193
Another option is a "quick connect" fitting -- it's a little faster than even a swivel fitting -- you can basically pull it apart and then just push it back together. Here's an example of a quick connect fitting: www.dripdepot.com/2500
In regards to the best drip line size, it largely depends on the circumference of your trees -- most likely, the 1/4" will be more than good for you unless the trees are particularly large. The 12" spaced 1/4" drip line is good for up to about 30', so it'd have to be a pretty big tree to outgrow that.
And I remember that soil very well Anne! I used to live in dry Colorado as well (Palmer Lake and then Grand Junction when I moved West) :)
I have 48 trees in two separate tree lines. Drip Depot here I come
If any questions come up during the process, don't hesitate to reach out, we'll be happy to assist :)
@@dripdepot Thank you very mich. If you noticed a couple of orders recently, 3 going to the same address, that was me.
@@JesusistheonetrueGod I did see a couple like that! Did all of yours get free shipping? If not, reply to me here with one of the order numbers so I can make sure, I'd hate for you to pay shipping on one of those when it otherwise would have qualified if it were all in one.
@@dripdepot One of my orders didn't get free shipping because it was just these two items:
0-200 PSI Pressure Gauge - Type : Dry
Soil Moisture Meter
@@JesusistheonetrueGod Perfect! Found it and have issued a refund for the entirety of the shipping costs on that one :)
Really appreciate videos like this. Very informative and straightforward. We just planted a total of young 18 juniper's and arborvitaes. Wondering what spacing around those trees would be proper? Getting my plan together now to order all parts. Thank you
The general rule is to make the diameter about halfway through the canopy -- this can vary of course, but in general the root system of a tree is as large as its canopy. So if the canopy had a 24" diameter, you could put the drip line ring approximately 12" away. Arborvitae can have root systems that are smaller than the canopy, but with them you can use the caliper to get a good idea of its root diameter :)
Do I need the backflow preventer and pressure regulator if I'm connecting to traditional sprinkler system pipes?
The backflow preventer you may not need, as most sprinkler systems will come with powerful backflow protection -- it can be worth confirming (backflow prevention is important!) but most likely it's already present, particularly if it was professionally installed.
The pressure regulator (and a fine mesh filter) you'll likely need -- sprinkler systems tend to operate at higher pressure than drip systems, so you'll want to bring it down a little bit to keep the drippers emitting water nice and evenly (and to protect the drip components from too high of pressure).
If for some reason the sprinkler system is already at 15 to 30 PSI you could go without the regulator, but most likely it's somewhere between 40 to 70 PSI.
I have one small tree in a perennial bed on the same system. Would you just hand water the tree and drip the plants since they have separate needs? Or what would the irrigation emitter types be?
Good question -- in some cases it can be planned around, by going with something higher flow (a drip line spiral instead of ring, a bubbler, etc) for the thirstier tree and going with drippers or drip line for the perennials. The big thing to keep in mind is frequency, some trees enjoy a deep watering but only once or twice a week, others prefer consistently moist soil. To put both on a drip system, read about the watering needs of the perennial types and tree type -- volume (gallons per hour) is pretty easy to account for when having both on the same system, it's the frequency to really look for :)
You could also put each one on its own zone, even from the same hose bib -- a faucet Y splitter or two outlet timer will allow each to be on their own zone and have completely customized watering cycles.
Where should I place the watering ring - directly over the root ball or where the backfill meets the root ball, or at the drip line (widest reach of the branches)? The tree was planted a few weeks ago. 6 foot tall "green giant". Root ball approximately 20" across. Burlap removed from top of root ball, left on sides of root ball. Zone 6a. Thank you.
This can of course depend on a few variables (like so much in drip!) but if the root ball is a 20" diameter, a good general / starting approach would be to make your drip line ring 10" diameter.
In common loamy garden soil, water spreads about 12" from the point of drip beneath, so a 20" diameter root ball irrigated by a 10" diameter ring would see thorough coverage. :)
@@dripdepot Thank you so much!
Why should the emitter holes be facing UP given that the water needs to go down into the soil? thanks!
Great question! The primary reason is to help prevent clogging -- at system shut-down, air is going to drain from the lowest point emitters. As water drains, it is replaced by air and that air might be suctioned in through other emitters. If the emitters are facing up, they'll just pull in air, if they're facing the soil they might pull some dirt and debris with it which can lead to clogging.
could you run 1/4 "blank tubing" down that row as opposed the main tubing?
On a small enough system, you could -- 1/4" tubing is limited to about 30' length and 30 GPH in flow, but it's best not to hit both thresholds -- a 30' run of 1/4" tubing with 30 GPH going through it would lose close to 20 PSI from friction loss. At 20 GPH it would still be 13 PSI.
So basically, you could do so on small system that just needs to water a couple trees and is reasonably close to the water source :)
@@dripdepot Thank you very much for the reply...I'm pretty sure you saved me a headache!
@@bobfrye8879 You bet Bob, if any questions come up while you're planning/installing your system, don't hesitate to send them this way!
can the emitter tube ring be above the mulch? wont the mulch absorb all the water and deprive the tree? ty
You bet, the emitter line can be on top of the mulch -- the mulch will eventually reach its saturation point and the gravity and capillary/wicking action will carry the water to the soil and spread out from there. I'd say it's fairly common to have it on top of the mulch. The maximum efficiency is to place it beneath (but that slightly increases the risk of clogging), but it can go either way and still water effectively :)
@@dripdepot Has to be on top so you can verify flow. In hard water areas the drippers may clog within one year.
@@911justice6 I'd say it's around 50/50 for folks who cover it and those who don't, but you bring up a very good point -- it's definitely a good idea to verify flow prior to covering, particularly if it's a larger system or if some of the trees are a good distance from the water source. And yes, hard water can be the bane of almost any drip emitter -- filtering will delay it, but mineral build-up will inevitably happen.
In those cases a plant-safe pH solution can be injected into the lines to break it up for flushing, or if it's not too big of a system, the dripline can be removed and soaked in such a soution -- similar to those solutions you see out there for misting nozzles, which have even smaller orifices.