Just the insight I needed as a new veggie gardener! We got the water lines run out to our 6 raised beds but have not selected what to install yet. Looks like we can mix drip, sprayers, microbubblers etc. That is super!
Great video! I love the awesome tip you shared about Keeping the restriction to the very end of the line. Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge.
Awesome, glad you liked it! There's a couple more videos here on RUclips, but I also have a comprehensive course on Drip at www.proirrigationtraining.com/drip-irrigation-for-lawn-and-farm.html
Thank you, I appreciate that. This is part of an online course that has 18 video lectures. The course does have one lecture on the history of drip. And I do get slagged occasionally in reviews for teaching 6 minutes of history, lol.
I like the one that has 6 or 7 streams come out from the head because as the plant matures it will require more water. And those are adjustable from 0 to 14 gph. Where as the faucet drippers only go up to 4 gph. And the micro bubblers are ideal for watering garden beds that have plants spaced out far like tomato plants. Those are the two that i use for my fruit and vegetable plants, and shrubs.
This was the best video on the subject on RUclips. Very easy to understand👍🏻 I’d like to suggest that you lower your camera so we could see all the products on display on the table. Thank you!
Take a clean yoghurt container and put a sewing needle through the bottom. Fill it with water and see how long it takes to empty. That will give you the time it will take to empty and you can work from there to decide how big a container you actually will need--a pint, a quart, a gallon, multiple gallons, etc.
I went with the drip tape option for my garden. I couldn't believe how cheap these systems are now and feel like a real dummy for using sprinklers and hand watering. It's going to be neat not having to babysit my water system.
@@k_neil Go with the 15 mil. It's great but the 8 mil stuff got some pin holes in it that I had to cut out and splice. No big deal really but the heavy duty stuff is the way to go. I absolutely love the drip tape though. Best thing to ever happen to row crop gardeners.
OMG this is so informative thanks! I was so ready to just have a hole punched tube snaking through the flower bed, I can now be creative!!!!!!!! (my bride is gonna be so happy)
Be careful doing it this way. I'm not sure of the right term but if your feeder line is not at the right angle at the end, the water will run on the tubbing back to towards the main line. I know I'm not explaining it right but the water will not land on to the root ball of the plant. I used to attach the emitter before the feeder, but now that I actually maintain many of the plants I install I see the draw back of this method.
Thank you. Your lesson was exactly the info I was looking for. You are clear and very helpful. One question...I'm installing several trees on a property and will be keeping them all on one valve with pressure regulator and filter, running solid drip tubing to each tree and then I'm wondering if I should use bubblers or drip emitters. I am limted to 2.0 GPH emitters by the city. What do you suggest? Thanks very much .
Hello, sorry for the slow reply. I don't think there's really a need to use bubblers instead of drip emitters. 2gph emitters are just fine. You can even use smaller emitters and just extend the run time. Just make sure to add up all the emitters to ensure your flow demand isn't too high. If you have many trees, you might exceed the flow ability of the solid tubing supply line, usually 4 or 5 g.p.minute for 17mm or 1/2" tubing. In that case, just install a larger supply line, like 3/4' or 1" PVC or Poly.
This is a very informative video especially focusing on best practise of how to put emitters at the end vs start ... Thank you. Can you tell me for what size plants i chose a 5 GPH vs 4 vs 2 vs 1 GPH emitter ? Is there some guidance based on tree sizes ?
no, you're not crazy, you absolutely make good sense that you don't like a coupling to look like a dripper, even though it may be gray. That just adds one more piece of complexity to the project,which would undoubtedly lead to confusion and mistakes. Things should be as simple as possible
Have to say I loved this video. I just wish I understood all about the PSI and making sure that each type of plant/flower is getting the right amount of water. I am not smart enough to figure it all out!!!! Would be much easier to invite you here to do mine. I've been working on perfecting my drips for years and no such luck. So with this great video, I will set out again as here in CA we have the sprinklers on already... and it's only February 2020.. no rain this month! Can you give me your beginning course link here... or make one for dummies like me? I'd really, really, really like to accomplish this goal... I'd be the happiest Grandma ever!!!
Hi Janet, sorry for the slow response. Here is a link to the free course for beginners. www.udemy.com/course/introduction-to-irrigation-and-sprinkler-systems/?kw=irriga&src=sac
Good video would be good to know when to use a bubbler, vs microspray vs spray vs a standard drip emitters for different planting applications, IE bed of perrenials, vs shrubs, vs vegatables, vs annuals, vs trees, edging etc and also using emitters with orbits line of 2, 4, or 8 line adapters and what emitters may be compatible with those. I know I have had a hard time getting bubblers and microsprayers to work with the orbit multi 1/4 line adapters.
What are your thoughts on a spaghetti line that is a soaker...spaghetti line that you could acually make a circle and place around your plants..verses a dripper? Im new at this and I am still learning before I acually purchase a system. Thanks!
Hey I wanna do a drip irrigation on 250 green arborvitae trees and they Will be spread around 500 ft long as a property fence . Any advice on how it can be done. The first tree from the water source will be 200ft away
just discovered your channel. I'm looking for a drip system that will connect to our DIY rain barrel. It's elevated using 2-stacks of cement hollow blocks so it may have some pressure. Will this work and what do you suggest? Thanks
I'm obsessed with learning more about drip irrigation (for our 5 acre ranch). I have totally loved your video / tutorial!!! We are just starting to map out the location of future planting (mostly fruit trees and shrubs and garden beds). I have a couple of questions. 1) because of the large parcel, can I run schedule 40 PVC lines (?1" vs 1/2" vs 3/4") underground the several hundred feet to a specific location before adding the flexible tubing? 2) I have some very large, mature pepper trees. Can I keep them adequately watered with a drip system? 3) apparently coyotes bite into these lines during droughts; any solutions? I had considered running the drip irrigation lines inside the PVC lines, but I'm told they typically bite into the lines nearest the emitters so my plan won't work. Thanks in advance for any answers!!
As far as the coyotes are concerned, you may try to cover the drip lines with enough mulch so that any critters cant see the lines or hear the slight noise the emitters make. Mulch also helps hold down any evaporation. Other than that, you could look into a Rain Bird RWS Root Watering System. It's buried in the ground and irrigates directly into the root zone. As far as the PVC supply pipe, you will need to add up the gallons per minute for all the sections of drip that you want to put onto a single supply pipe. First, you can't exceed the gpm of the supply source, your pump or water meter. Then look up the friction loss chart for Sched 40 PVC pipe and see which size pipe will flow that much water. I once installed a system for a blueberry farm that was several acres. We had to use 2" pipes to deliver water to all the sections of drip that we wanted to put on each zone. If your farm is large, you may have to use several zones and valves to cover it all.
Ferg, she didn't say how many trees or shrubs or the flow that was needed. If there were many trees down a line, you may want to be careful about using 3/4" and 1/2" pipes. Schd 40 - 1/2" will only flow 4 gpm without getting into excessively high velocity, and Schd 40 - 3/4" only 7 gpm. Supply pipes should be sized according to how much flow you need.
So I saw an article earlier this summer that using drains at the end of the drip lines would help keep them clean, so I bought some but found out that they don't work with the 1/4" lines, only the bigger stuff, 5/8" , do you know anybody who makes them for the 1/4" emitter lines or know of a trick to get them to work on the smaller lines ?
Thank you for your videos! Question: I do NOT understand how you are just snapping the couplers into the drip line by hand?! Neither my husband or myself can get the stupid parts into the hoseline... it's extremely frustrating. Even after poking a hole with the tool, it is still impossible.
Hi Katie. I bet the tubing you have is actually "flex pipe" or the thicker walled tubing meant to connect heads and so forth. What you want is the thinner walled drip tubing. It makes all the difference in the world!
Hi, Great simple video! What is the name and brand of the micro sprayer head at 6:42 of your video? looks like a great way to start watering a small garden while making a water source for our beehive close by. Thanks for the help. Farmer Guy
That particular micro spray head is from Landscape Products, carried by Ewing Irrigation. Rain Bird and Hunter make 360 micro sprays, but the pattern may be a little different. I just happen to like the way this one spins. It does a great job.
thanks for the great video. where does one find/purchase the 3 part construction mico-sprayers found at ~5:15 of your video? alternatively, who makes them? thanks in advance.
Hunter, Rainbird, and Toro I think, all have versions of this. Landscape Products / Ewing Irrigation also makes a line of those. Any sprinkler supply online will have them. In the US, most of the larger hardware stores have them. They're very inexpensive as well!
Oh, thats what they are - drippers! I thought it is some kind of rubbish restricting the flow. So I proudly cut them all off to allow system to work properly and flood my plants. I'm radical mindset - more water = better. Am I wrong? Sorry, first time homebuyer.
Hey Arthur, if it's working out for you, roll with it! Yes, the drippers do restrict the flow to a measured, matched rate. But if the faster flood works in your garden, then just watch the run time so you don't over-do it. Remember, over-watering can look a lot like under-watering in the plant itself, so check the wetness of the soil and adjust according to the plants you have. There's a lot of plants that can't stand to have wet, soggy roots, and other plants love it.
Great tips and taking the time to share your expertise is absolutely priceless! In wanting to water from the bottom, what would be your thoughts on using a perforated PVC pipe ( say 10 small holes on the bottom) and putting the drip irrigation on top of the tube so the water can reach the bottom part of the garden?
I like the video the problem is we are looking at your and I need to see the pieces when you are talking about then next video put your camera facing the parts or you an show each part put it in front of the camera because you know the name of each piece but I don’t lol 😂 . Thanks !!
How would I run irrigation tubing from a splitter at a hose bib that will need to be trenched under pavers I am having installed. I would like to have a drip system for a sm/med size raised planter and for a fruitless olive tree in a huge concrete pot. Would I used pvc?
I would use PVC under the pavers for sure. I doubt you'll exceed the capacity of 1/2" flexible tubing that you can run inside the PVC. For 1/2" polyethylene tubing, you can get 5 gallons per hour minimum. I would do it like this: Hose Bibb > Brass Y splitter > Rain Bird Battery Powered Timer > Bushing to convert from hose thread to pipe thread > Male thread x 1/2" barb fitting > 1/2" tubing out to the drip location. This video explains what to select at the drip location. Hope that helps you!
In South Carolina, we dont do anything. It doesnt get cold enough to damage hardly anything. But if you use drip line without check valves in it, you can just uncap the end of each run of tubing and let the water run out. If you're using check valve dripline, you should use an air compressor to blow out all your lines and zones.
Is it easy to plug up holes if you move a plant from that spot? Really I wanted to ask if you know how the orbit raindrip system works and if its ok to use soaker hoses combined with non porous tubing connected to irrigation manifolds? Thanks
Yes you can easily plug the hole with a "goof plug." And those soaker hoses work well, you can mix and match any of those products for whatever plants you have. Just make sure you don't exceed the 4-5 gallons per minute that's usually the limit for 1/2" or 17mm tubing.
I have installed a rainbird drip system to a couple beds this year. I love that it shaves an hour off of my hand watering time. My one issue that I have in both beds is that a few of the emitters still drip water when the system is off. They are the emitters at the lowest point of elevation in the beds. The beds are on 2 separate lines and they both have their own valves. Those select few emitters drip all day. How can I eliminate this problem?
Hi Jodi, thanks for watching! If there is dripping truly all day, 24 hrs, then the valve is probably leaking a little. If it only drips for a couple hours after running, then it's just draining. You can get dripline with check valves molded in the tubing, or you can get little check valves to insert in the line to mitigate the problem. amzn.to/3oBx1o2
@@Proirrigationtraining Thank you so much for the response! I have not buttoned everything up completely yet. I was waiting to see if there were any problems before I closed it all up. Do you have a test I could run to see if it is in fact the valves leaking? I can replace the valves if it is.
Great video. If I no longer need water to an emitter at the end of spaghetti tubing, how to plug it? Can I fold the spaghetti tubing to plug it? Or will that cause the coupling to the 1/2" solid tubing to leak?
Yes, you can just double the tubing over and secure it with a bread-tie or something similar. If the pressure has been properly regulated, the fittings shouldn't leak at all. Thank you!
First off thanks for the video great information. When it comes to regulators I noticed most kits include a 25psi. I was thinking of going 30,35psi I have around 60 to 70 foot of travel via flat area tell I get to my raised bed 3ft high. I just want to make sure I have enough psi to cover my vegetable garden. I'm using a 2ft x 2ft x8ft long bed. Any thoughts on this?
You sure can use a higher PSI pressure regulator if you think there's going to be a problem. If you're using a dripline product with the drippers built in, I doubt that you'd run out of Flow for this small project. You can check the manufacturer's printed guidelines for max feet of dripline per "run" or for each 1/2" supply point. If you're inserting drippers, add up the flow and don't exceed 6 gallons per MINUTE total. Remember that the drippers are gallons per HOUR, so make sure you total it up right. But for that small bed, you shouldn't even approach max Flow capacity of the 1/2" drip tubing. Good luck with your veggies!
Spot-spitters, I like that! Never heard that before! But yes they will work fine. It's best not to have full pressure anyway, it will blow the fittings apart. I don't think the drip manifolds have pressure reduction in them, so it's best to use a pressure reducer and filter on any drip system.
I have had drip for three years and still trying to figure it out. I have a lot of pots various sizes and 5 2x8 raised beds that look more like a cottage garden. I am thinking I need more of a micro spray for my type of raised beds. I’m also stuck on what size of drip to use for what size of pots. I also have the cloth pots and I have decided the 1 gallon drip per 1 gallon pot. Is that right? And how to use the bug guards? Thanks for your help.
Hi Sheri. Let's talk about the dripper size. The 1 gallon dripper means one gallon through that dripper in one one hour of run time. So, If you need a full gallon in that pot, then use a 1 gph dripper and run that zone for one hour. If you only want a half gallon in that pot per watering event, then you could use that 1 gph dripper and only run the system for half an hour. (or a 2gph dripper with 15 minutes of run time.) I also like microsprays because they have a variable shut off knob that you can trip down the spray if you need less water.
I have garden beds which some are 2m wide others are only 1m wide I don't way to be spraying water on my path right next to them, I'm thinking drippers might be the way but I have heard they only wet the soil directly below the dripper and not a small circle around the whole root system on say a hydrangea. Wondering if sprayers are better for this?
Luke, so sorry that I'm just now being shown this comment. Microsprays are good in this situation as you can can trim down the spray as needed. Pretty much every one I've ever seen has a flow control dial on the nozzle that will reduce the distance it throws water. As far as drippers are concerned, the water does spread out as it soaks downward from the surface. The more dense the soil, the more it spreads, but even sand gets some spread. I've used drip on my hydrangeas and it worked fine, but we have heavy clay soil.
I'm going to be doing this to water my conifer trees, seedlings right now but they will need the eqivilant of 1" per week what size emitter would I use?
That's a good question. I know of formulas for converting large areas into acre/inches, but a single drip emitter? I'll have to do some research to figure this one out.
Hi Gerry, there's a couple ways to do this. The best way is to add a new zone by installing a new valve. That way you can control your drip independently of other zones and dial the watering times in to each need. That gets a little technical and you would need to wire the new zone back to the timer assuming that its an automatic system. Good installers will include an extra wire or two in the bundle when installing for future expansion. If not, you would have to run a new hot wire ( you can use the existing common wire, assuming you're adding the new valve near existing valves.) There's another, easier way. you can use an existing zone if there's enough available flow to supply the existing heads plus the drip you want to add. if there's a head you can eliminate, you can use the Rain Bird 1800 Retrofit Kit to make a new drip supply point. It has a pressure regulating filter, and It also has a 1/2" inlet, but if you already have Rain Bird 1800 Sprays, you can just replace the guts of the spray body. Be sure to figure out the flow requirement of the drip you want to add so you can make sure that you're not over-demanding the zone and decrease the performance of the heads already on the zone.
Are there "T" couplings available? The coupling would have 17 mm barbs on the two in line ends and a male barb to be inserted into 1/4" tubing. I do not want to deal with poking holes in the tubing.
@@Ted_Michaels There are various Tees available, but I'm not sure if there are any like you're describing. I'll look though, there are a lot of new products and manufacturers of drip. As for the second comment, there are fittings with 1/2" and 3/4" female inlets that have 1-6 drip barbs. They're quite handy for adapting pipe to drip. Be careful though, drip products should have a filter beforehand and also be pressure reduced down to 35 psi or so.
@@Proirrigationtraining Many thanks for your response. A "t" like I described would be fantastic. Also, thank you for your words of caution regarding drip - reduce down to 35 psi and have a filter - this is helpful.
To be honest, there's a lot of variables in your question that i can't begin to answer here. Netafim has an amazing support program for farmers. Go to the Netafim USA website and there's a place to contact them and they can give you precise recommendations for your particular crop.
Well, most drip products need an 8 or 10 psi minimum to work. If using 1/2" drip tubing, you have a limit of 4 or 5 gpm. which gives a psi loss of 6 - 7 psi per 100'. Also some loss through any supply piping and valves, elbows, etc. will probably bring you up to 20 psi. And we get .433 psi for each foot of elevation rise, so 46.18 feet of elevation.
I personally like using dripline with emitters molded into the tubing. Make a loop about 75% of the way out to the edge of the canopy. You can connect all the loops with solid tubing. There's something similar in some of the practical videos in the drip playlist.
Ryan Howe Thanks for this video. I am going to be installing a system in our front yard over the weekend but have never done this and therefore a question: Is it possible to create a system that can be feed from both a rain barrel (gravity fed) and a hose bib - or do those need to be independent systems? We live in the desert Southwest, and try to use recaptured water as much as possible, but often our rainwater catchment system runs dry Thanks in advance!
The first concern is how the water will actually be delivered. Most drip products require a minimum of 8 or 10 psi to work. If the rain barrel was elevated 18 - 20', then you could make enough pressure. Or you could drill very small holes in PVC pipes for the delivery system for the rain water. Either way, it probably has to be kept separate unless you can find a way to pressurize the rain water with either a pump or elevation.
Do you know if the brown tubes are smaller than the black tubes? I tried fixing a brown one by cutting out the broken area and adding coupler but it seems that its too big for the brown tube. I tried a barbed coupling, but that didn't fit into the brown tube! I'm frustrated.
Yes, there can be a slight difference in the sizes. Typically, the black tube is 1/2" and the brown tubing is 17mm, which is a difference on the interior diameter of a mm or two. Rainbird's Multi-Diameter Compression Coupling will take care of that. www.lowes.com/pd/Rain-Bird-1-2-in-Plastic-Drip-irrigation-coupling/1002293686
I have a combination of bubblers and emitters, but unless I turn off the flow completely, the water comes out 24/7 even though the timer doesn’t start again until the following day. I have had to shut off the main water every day and then turn it on again when the timer dictates. I have tried changing the settings on the bubblers and sprayers but it makes no difference . What should I do?
Hi Robert, there could be a couple things going on. Is there any downhill run to the drip lines? Maybe there's enough water in the pipe after the valve shuts off that it's continuing to push water out the emitters. Or the valve isn't fully closing (which is usually the culprit). Disassemble the valve and flush it out. It's also possible that the timer is malfunctioning and sending voltage to the valve 24/7. Get a voltmeter and check the wire junctions.
I have 2-foot x 2-foot containers. I'm finding it hard to water equally the whole area. Also, I have containers and raised beds on the same zone and I'm finding it hard to match the needs of each in the same time frame. Do you have any ideas or do you think I need to expand to 2 zones?
Hi Dolly, I'm so sorry that a reply didn't get posted at the time, I thought I did. The solution is to use a solid drip tubing, then you can tailor the drippers to your needs. Small plant with small water need, use a .5 gallon per hour dripper. For a larger plant, you could use a 2 gph dripper or multiple drippers. For a larger area that drippers may not work the best, you can use a micro spray to provide better or more even coverage. For this strategy to work, the soil needs to be fairly porous and have good drainage, otherwise the water just spreads out sub-surface and the differences in each dripper won't make much difference.
@@Proirrigationtraining Thank you so much. Better late than never. I forgot to mention that this bed is on an incline. Does this affect your recommendations?
@@dollyperry3020 It shouldnt affect much unless the incline is drastic. If the water is flowing downhill, it will pick up .433 psi per one foot of vertical elevation drop. if the water flows uphill, it will lose .433 for each foot of vertical rise.
The question relates to how much water flow you have available. If you have enough pressure to push the water, and are using 1/2" delivery tubing, ( supplying 4 gallons per minute) you could theoretically use 480 of the .5 gallons per minute drippers. The problem with rain barrels though is that you don't really get enough pressure to push that much water. You could attach a small pump to the line to bring up the pressure enough to push 4 gpm. If you're using 1/4" delivery tubing (17 gph) then you could use 34 of the .5 gph drippers.
Hi John, sorry for the late response. But yes you can use 360 emitters. Really its what you need to directly water the plants or just the roots, depending on the location of the drip tubing. The 360 emitters work great, though.
I'm not terribly knowledgeable about trees, but I'm thinking that Live Oaks get pretty large. The size and age would determine where to position a ring of drip line around it. A new planting would need a dripline pretty close in, but a larger established tree would need to be watered further out towards the edge of the canopy where smaller roots are. Closer in to established trees, the roots are thicker and take in less water.
As long as the total flow doesn't exceed the amount the supply pipe or drip tubing can deliver. Most drip tubing has a flow rate of 4 or 5 gallons per minute. Add up all the drippers on the tubing run and see if you have enough left over for a spray. Check the flow rate for the nozzle that either comes with or you purchase seperately to put on the spray.
I recommend that you find a local supplier to price the parts at, or check with a website that is based in your part of the world. I don't know where you live, but in the US, there's a pretty wide range of prices depending on where you purchase the parts from. There are some good websites like sprinklerwarehouse.com, but i don't know about the cost of shipping.
You sure can, but you have to make sure that whatever you're going to supply doesn't exceed the flow capability of the drip line and the drippers that it's already supplying. If you're just going to put a couple drippers, for a potted plant or something like that, it's probably not an issue, but if you're going to water another whole bed or garden area, you may want to consider tapping into the main line just so you know you'll have enough water available. Of course don't exceed the flow capability of the pipe you're tapping into, either.
Hi, I'm wondering if you can help me w/ this ? I have 2-3 55 gal barrels I'm trying to run gravity drip off of . I have 12 - 4x4' /2' deep boxes . How high do I need them in the air to have enough pressure and what drip Emitters should I use ?. Thanks for any help ..
Hi Kevin, I think the minimum pressure that you would have to generate would be 12 - 14 psi. Most drip-tape products and drip emitters require a minimum of 8 - 10 psi to push through the emitter, and a little extra to account for friction loss through the fittings and pipe. Each foot of elevation rise will get you .433 psi, to get 14 psi at the head of the system, you would need 32.3 ft of vertical rise. That doesn't mean that the barrels need to be straight up vertical. If you have a hill, you could use the slope to accomplish the elevation drop.
Thanks for the info . I have 2- 55 gal . up 4 ft high , with a slope Not sure how to get measurements on the slope ? Any info would be great .. thanks again :)
The best way I know of is to use a laser level and a stick of pipe. Remember that what matters is the straight vertical elevation rise. Place the laser level on the ground up the slope. Walk down the slope with the stick of pipe. Hold the pipe vertical with end on the ground. Move it around until you see the laser line on the pipe. Mark and measure that point and you've got the vertical elevation rise between the place where the pipe touched and the laser level. You can repeat the process for a long slope. Again, you're going to need at least 32' of vertical rise. If you can't achieve that much elevation, you can drill small holes in PVC pipe and use that as your drip delivery system. That's far from perfect, a last resort if you can't generate enough pressure to use drip products.
![Backyard Drip Irrigation Project | Phase 1 Planning [irrigation 101]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/vliM1XiUpio/mqdefault.jpg)
![Backyard Drip Irrigation Project | Phase 1 Planning [irrigation 101]](/img/tr.png)
![How To Use Irrigation Dripline [IRRIGATION 101]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/li7z2MuIkik/mqdefault.jpg)
Came back for a second peek, to expand my creation! 6 yrs old and still helpful and relevant.
Awesome!!!! I love hearing that people are getting real world value out of this, it's what I'm here for!
Thank you. Just the info. No music. No stupid shit. Thx
I agree the video was straight to the point. 👌🏽
Just the insight I needed as a new veggie gardener! We got the water lines run out to our 6 raised beds but have not selected what to install yet. Looks like we can mix drip, sprayers, microbubblers etc. That is super!
Hope your garden turned out great!
Great video! I love the awesome tip you shared about Keeping the restriction to the very end of the line. Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge.
Thanks and you're welcome!
Excellent pacing and vocal tone. You clearly explained a variety of products with ease. It gave me confidence for my upcoming project. Thank you.
Awesome, glad you liked it! There's a couple more videos here on RUclips, but I also have a comprehensive course on Drip at www.proirrigationtraining.com/drip-irrigation-for-lawn-and-farm.html
Confidence is exactly right. Keep up the good work: you're doing a true service!
Love how you get right down to business without all the introductory chatter. thanks!
Thank you, I appreciate that. This is part of an online course that has 18 video lectures. The course does have one lecture on the history of drip. And I do get slagged occasionally in reviews for teaching 6 minutes of history, lol.
No worries, keep doing what you are doing.
Yes thank you
@@rickstorm8948 1Q2aBfS8WhKyixzJrgmzjf1gr6RUgbNiYK q1q q1q 7.5
I like the one that has 6 or 7 streams come out from the head because as the plant matures it will require more water. And those are adjustable from 0 to 14 gph. Where as the faucet drippers only go up to 4 gph. And the micro bubblers are ideal for watering garden beds that have plants spaced out far like tomato plants. Those are the two that i use for my fruit and vegetable plants, and shrubs.
Absolutely right. I love the adjustability of the micro heads.
Best explanation of these-watched a lot- thank you for doing this video.
Thank you so much for watching and commenting! I'm so glad you got some useful info and value from this video!
This was the best video on the subject on RUclips. Very easy to understand👍🏻 I’d like to suggest that you lower your camera so we could see all the products on display on the table. Thank you!
Thank you for the suggestion!
Take a clean yoghurt container and put a sewing needle through the bottom. Fill it with water and see how long it takes to empty. That will give you the time it will take to empty and you can work from there to decide how big a container you actually will need--a pint, a quart, a gallon, multiple gallons, etc.
I went with the drip tape option for my garden. I couldn't believe how cheap these systems are now and feel like a real dummy for using sprinklers and hand watering. It's going to be neat not having to babysit my water system.
Jason, thanks for watching and best of luck with your garden.
How is it 1 year in?
@@k_neil Go with the 15 mil. It's great but the 8 mil stuff got some pin holes in it that I had to cut out and splice. No big deal really but the heavy duty stuff is the way to go. I absolutely love the drip tape though. Best thing to ever happen to row crop gardeners.
Thank you for the video. Helped me figure out, that I can split the smaller drip line.
Thank you for the informative video! It made it very easy to understand,and I was able to install my system with no problems
So glad to hear that!
Very clear, practical and easy to understand...even for a mechanical klutz like me.
Awesome, glad you got some value out of it!
OMG this is so informative thanks! I was so ready to just have a hole punched tube snaking through the flower bed, I can now be creative!!!!!!!! (my bride is gonna be so happy)
Well done. You saved me years of messing around with stuff
Great, glad to hear it!
Great video, awesome delivery. This is one very clear explanation. Keep it up
Brilliant, didn't know I could put the dripper before the feeder line !
Be careful doing it this way. I'm not sure of the right term but if your feeder line is not at the right angle at the end, the water will run on the tubbing back to towards the main line. I know I'm not explaining it right but the water will not land on to the root ball of the plant. I used to attach the emitter before the feeder, but now that I actually maintain many of the plants I install I see the draw back of this method.
Thank you. Your lesson was exactly the info I was looking for. You are clear and very helpful. One question...I'm installing several trees on a property and will be keeping them all on one valve with pressure regulator and filter, running solid drip tubing to each tree and then I'm wondering if I should use bubblers or drip emitters. I am limted to 2.0 GPH emitters by the city. What do you suggest? Thanks very much .
Hello, sorry for the slow reply. I don't think there's really a need to use bubblers instead of drip emitters. 2gph emitters are just fine. You can even use smaller emitters and just extend the run time. Just make sure to add up all the emitters to ensure your flow demand isn't too high. If you have many trees, you might exceed the flow ability of the solid tubing supply line, usually 4 or 5 g.p.minute for 17mm or 1/2" tubing. In that case, just install a larger supply line, like 3/4' or 1" PVC or Poly.
This is a very informative video especially focusing on best practise of how to put emitters at the end vs start ... Thank you. Can you tell me for what size plants i chose a 5 GPH vs 4 vs 2 vs 1 GPH emitter ? Is there some guidance based on tree sizes ?
Very informative. This will come in handy for my dripping-oya project. Subbed!
Glad you got some good, usable information from the video, Eric. Thanks for subscribing!
no, you're not crazy, you absolutely make good sense that you don't like a coupling to look like a dripper, even though it may be gray. That just adds one more piece of complexity to the project,which would undoubtedly lead to confusion and mistakes. Things should be as simple as possible
I appreciate that!
Great video. Like your teaching style.
Thanks I appreciate that.
Valuable information! Thank you so much!
So glad you that you got some valuable information! Good luck with your drip system and thanks for watching!
Great video, easy to understand, lots of good information, thank you.
Thanks for watching, hope you got some good info out of it!
Thank you so much! I like how you go down into details.
You're welcome! Hope the info helps.
Great presentation...thank you for posting!
Thank you for saying that!
Have to say I loved this video. I just wish I understood all about the PSI and making sure that each type of plant/flower is getting the right amount of water. I am not smart enough to figure it all out!!!! Would be much easier to invite you here to do mine. I've been working on perfecting my drips for years and no such luck. So with this great video, I will set out again as here in CA we have the sprinklers on already... and it's only February 2020.. no rain this month! Can you give me your beginning course link here... or make one for dummies like me? I'd really, really, really like to accomplish this goal... I'd be the happiest Grandma ever!!!
Hi Janet, sorry for the slow response. Here is a link to the free course for beginners. www.udemy.com/course/introduction-to-irrigation-and-sprinkler-systems/?kw=irriga&src=sac
Great video, thank you for all the information, very useful 👍
You're welcome, hope you got lots of good info.
Fantastic video and channel! New subscriber 🙏 🇺🇲💥
Great, thanks for subscribing! I'll be dropping some new content starting now.
He said "one half gallon per minute" at least twice for the blue dripper. It is actually one half gallon per hour. A big difference!
Yes sir, I did. It's tough to keep it all straight for a video like that. I'm sure you noticed the text on the screen with the correction to gph.
Excellent informative video. Thank you!
Thank you. easy to understand. well done
Helpfull information, thank you for sharing !
Good video would be good to know when to use a bubbler, vs microspray vs spray vs a standard drip emitters for different planting applications, IE bed of perrenials, vs shrubs, vs vegatables, vs annuals, vs trees, edging etc and also using emitters with orbits line of 2, 4, or 8 line adapters and what emitters may be compatible with those. I know I have had a hard time getting bubblers and microsprayers to work with the orbit multi 1/4 line adapters.
Very helpful. Can you please show each piece closeup. Thanks
Great video, very clear
Thank you!
Very instructive, short concise and to the point.
Thank you so much, hope you learned something useful!
Thank you. This is quite educational video of the options available.
What are your thoughts on a spaghetti line that is a soaker...spaghetti line that you could acually make a circle and place around your plants..verses a dripper? Im new at this and I am still learning before I acually purchase a system. Thanks!
Excelent video. Regards from Guatemala.
Thank you! I hope it helps you.
Thank you. Great information
You're welcome! Thanks for watching!
Hey I wanna do a drip irrigation on 250 green arborvitae trees and they Will be spread around 500 ft long as a property fence . Any advice on how it can be done. The first tree from the water source will be 200ft away
just discovered your channel. I'm looking for a drip system that will connect to our DIY rain barrel. It's elevated using 2-stacks of cement hollow blocks so it may have some pressure. Will this work and what do you suggest? Thanks
I'm obsessed with learning more about drip irrigation (for our 5 acre ranch). I have totally loved your video / tutorial!!! We are just starting to map out the location of future planting (mostly fruit trees and shrubs and garden beds). I have a couple of questions. 1) because of the large parcel, can I run schedule 40 PVC lines (?1" vs 1/2" vs 3/4") underground the several hundred feet to a specific location before adding the flexible tubing? 2) I have some very large, mature pepper trees. Can I keep them adequately watered with a drip system? 3) apparently coyotes bite into these lines during droughts; any solutions? I had considered running the drip irrigation lines inside the PVC lines, but I'm told they typically bite into the lines nearest the emitters so my plan won't work. Thanks in advance for any answers!!
As far as the coyotes are concerned, you may try to cover the drip lines with enough mulch so that any critters cant see the lines or hear the slight noise the emitters make. Mulch also helps hold down any evaporation. Other than that, you could look into a Rain Bird RWS Root Watering System. It's buried in the ground and irrigates directly into the root zone. As far as the PVC supply pipe, you will need to add up the gallons per minute for all the sections of drip that you want to put onto a single supply pipe. First, you can't exceed the gpm of the supply source, your pump or water meter. Then look up the friction loss chart for Sched 40 PVC pipe and see which size pipe will flow that much water. I once installed a system for a blueberry farm that was several acres. We had to use 2" pipes to deliver water to all the sections of drip that we wanted to put on each zone. If your farm is large, you may have to use several zones and valves to cover it all.
Kim Newton ..you must use 3/4 in line to 1/2 pvc. Then tube
Ferg, she didn't say how many trees or shrubs or the flow that was needed. If there were many trees down a line, you may want to be careful about using 3/4" and 1/2" pipes. Schd 40 - 1/2" will only flow 4 gpm without getting into excessively high velocity, and Schd 40 - 3/4" only 7 gpm. Supply pipes should be sized according to how much flow you need.
So I saw an article earlier this summer that using drains at the end of the drip lines would help keep them clean, so I bought some but found out that they don't work with the 1/4" lines, only the bigger stuff, 5/8" , do you know anybody who makes them for the 1/4" emitter lines or know of a trick to get them to work on the smaller lines ?
Thank you for your videos! Question: I do NOT understand how you are just snapping the couplers into the drip line by hand?! Neither my husband or myself can get the stupid parts into the hoseline... it's extremely frustrating. Even after poking a hole with the tool, it is still impossible.
Hi Katie. I bet the tubing you have is actually "flex pipe" or the thicker walled tubing meant to connect heads and so forth. What you want is the thinner walled drip tubing. It makes all the difference in the world!
Concise, & to the point, great demonstration of various products, ...
Thank you, I appreciate it!
PS. those electrical clamps are coaxial cable clamps for those interested
Where can I buy these products? Ive searched Amazon and they have several kits but I like these particular products
Hi, Great simple video! What is the name and brand of the micro sprayer head at 6:42 of your video? looks like a great way to start watering a small garden while making a water source for our beehive close by. Thanks for the help. Farmer Guy
That particular micro spray head is from Landscape Products, carried by Ewing Irrigation. Rain Bird and Hunter make 360 micro sprays, but the pattern may be a little different. I just happen to like the way this one spins. It does a great job.
thanks for the great video. where does one find/purchase the 3 part construction mico-sprayers found at ~5:15 of your video? alternatively, who makes them? thanks in advance.
Hunter, Rainbird, and Toro I think, all have versions of this. Landscape Products / Ewing Irrigation also makes a line of those. Any sprinkler supply online will have them. In the US, most of the larger hardware stores have them. They're very inexpensive as well!
Wonderful video and great job! Really helpful! Thank you!!!
Oh, thats what they are - drippers! I thought it is some kind of rubbish restricting the flow. So I proudly cut them all off to allow system to work properly and flood my plants. I'm radical mindset - more water = better. Am I wrong? Sorry, first time homebuyer.
Hey Arthur, if it's working out for you, roll with it! Yes, the drippers do restrict the flow to a measured, matched rate. But if the faster flood works in your garden, then just watch the run time so you don't over-do it. Remember, over-watering can look a lot like under-watering in the plant itself, so check the wetness of the soil and adjust according to the plants you have. There's a lot of plants that can't stand to have wet, soggy roots, and other plants love it.
Great tips and taking the time to share your expertise is absolutely priceless!
In wanting to water from the bottom, what would be your thoughts on using a perforated PVC pipe ( say 10 small holes on the bottom) and putting the drip irrigation on top of the tube so the water can reach the bottom part of the garden?
So helpful. Thank you!
You're welcome, thanks for watching.
I like the video the problem is we are looking at your and I need to see the pieces when you are talking about then next video put your camera facing the parts or you an show each part put it in front of the camera because you know the name of each piece but I don’t lol 😂 . Thanks !!
Thank you for the input. We'll consider how to make our videos more informative!
Thank you !! I did some of my garden and you vídeo was good . I did the irrigation system !!
@@payasitapayasita2774 Awesome, glad to hear it!
Very helpful instruction. Thanks
You're welcome!
Complete information with pattern video and all.
How would I run irrigation tubing from a splitter at a hose bib that will need to be trenched under pavers I am having installed. I would like to have a drip system for a sm/med size raised planter and for a fruitless olive tree in a huge concrete pot. Would I used pvc?
I would use PVC under the pavers for sure. I doubt you'll exceed the capacity of 1/2" flexible tubing that you can run inside the PVC. For 1/2" polyethylene tubing, you can get 5 gallons per hour minimum. I would do it like this: Hose Bibb > Brass Y splitter > Rain Bird Battery Powered Timer > Bushing to convert from hose thread to pipe thread > Male thread x 1/2" barb fitting > 1/2" tubing out to the drip location. This video explains what to select at the drip location. Hope that helps you!
Really useful, thanks!
Glad you liked it! Don't forget that I have a full online video course about drip for only $30. Check the link above!
How do you prepare your irrigation system for winter, roll everything back to the storage?
In South Carolina, we dont do anything. It doesnt get cold enough to damage hardly anything. But if you use drip line without check valves in it, you can just uncap the end of each run of tubing and let the water run out. If you're using check valve dripline, you should use an air compressor to blow out all your lines and zones.
Is it easy to plug up holes if you move a plant from that spot? Really I wanted to ask if you know how the orbit raindrip system works and if its ok to use soaker hoses combined with non porous tubing connected to irrigation manifolds? Thanks
Yes you can easily plug the hole with a "goof plug." And those soaker hoses work well, you can mix and match any of those products for whatever plants you have. Just make sure you don't exceed the 4-5 gallons per minute that's usually the limit for 1/2" or 17mm tubing.
I have installed a rainbird drip system to a couple beds this year. I love that it shaves an hour off of my hand watering time. My one issue that I have in both beds is that a few of the emitters still drip water when the system is off. They are the emitters at the lowest point of elevation in the beds. The beds are on 2 separate lines and they both have their own valves. Those select few emitters drip all day. How can I eliminate this problem?
Hi Jodi, thanks for watching! If there is dripping truly all day, 24 hrs, then the valve is probably leaking a little. If it only drips for a couple hours after running, then it's just draining. You can get dripline with check valves molded in the tubing, or you can get little check valves to insert in the line to mitigate the problem.
amzn.to/3oBx1o2
@@Proirrigationtraining Thank you so much for the response! I have not buttoned everything up completely yet. I was waiting to see if there were any problems before I closed it all up. Do you have a test I could run to see if it is in fact the valves leaking? I can replace the valves if it is.
Great video. If I no longer need water to an emitter at the end of spaghetti tubing, how to plug it? Can I fold the spaghetti tubing to plug it? Or will that cause the coupling to the 1/2" solid tubing to leak?
Yes, you can just double the tubing over and secure it with a bread-tie or something similar. If the pressure has been properly regulated, the fittings shouldn't leak at all. Thank you!
First off thanks for the video great information. When it comes to regulators I noticed most kits include a 25psi. I was thinking of going 30,35psi I have around 60 to 70 foot of travel via flat area tell I get to my raised bed 3ft high. I just want to make sure I have enough psi to cover my vegetable garden. I'm using a 2ft x 2ft x8ft long bed. Any thoughts on this?
You sure can use a higher PSI pressure regulator if you think there's going to be a problem. If you're using a dripline product with the drippers built in, I doubt that you'd run out of Flow for this small project. You can check the manufacturer's printed guidelines for max feet of dripline per "run" or for each 1/2" supply point. If you're inserting drippers, add up the flow and don't exceed 6 gallons per MINUTE total. Remember that the drippers are gallons per HOUR, so make sure you total it up right. But for that small bed, you shouldn't even approach max Flow capacity of the 1/2" drip tubing. Good luck with your veggies!
Do Spot-Spitters work with drip-manifold converter heads? (Orbit, Rain Bird, etc.)
Or do you need full sprinkler-system pressure for Spot Spitters??
Spot-spitters, I like that! Never heard that before! But yes they will work fine. It's best not to have full pressure anyway, it will blow the fittings apart. I don't think the drip manifolds have pressure reduction in them, so it's best to use a pressure reducer and filter on any drip system.
@@Proirrigationtraining thanks!
I have had drip for three years and still trying to figure it out. I have a lot of pots various sizes and 5 2x8 raised beds that look more like a cottage garden. I am thinking I need more of a micro spray for my type of raised beds. I’m also stuck on what size of drip to use for what size of pots. I also have the cloth pots and I have decided the 1 gallon drip per 1 gallon pot. Is that right? And how to use the bug guards? Thanks for your help.
Hi Sheri. Let's talk about the dripper size. The 1 gallon dripper means one gallon through that dripper in one one hour of run time. So, If you need a full gallon in that pot, then use a 1 gph dripper and run that zone for one hour. If you only want a half gallon in that pot per watering event, then you could use that 1 gph dripper and only run the system for half an hour. (or a 2gph dripper with 15 minutes of run time.) I also like microsprays because they have a variable shut off knob that you can trip down the spray if you need less water.
I have garden beds which some are 2m wide others are only 1m wide I don't way to be spraying water on my path right next to them, I'm thinking drippers might be the way but I have heard they only wet the soil directly below the dripper and not a small circle around the whole root system on say a hydrangea. Wondering if sprayers are better for this?
Luke, so sorry that I'm just now being shown this comment. Microsprays are good in this situation as you can can trim down the spray as needed. Pretty much every one I've ever seen has a flow control dial on the nozzle that will reduce the distance it throws water. As far as drippers are concerned, the water does spread out as it soaks downward from the surface. The more dense the soil, the more it spreads, but even sand gets some spread. I've used drip on my hydrangeas and it worked fine, but we have heavy clay soil.
Great video, how did you add a video behind you while filming this video without a green screen @2:08??
Hi Brandon. I actually did use a green screen.
I'm going to be doing this to water my conifer trees, seedlings right
now but they will need the eqivilant of 1" per week what size emitter
would I use?
That's a good question. I know of formulas for converting large areas into acre/inches, but a single drip emitter? I'll have to do some research to figure this one out.
great video.
Thank you!
How would I hook this system into my already existing sprinkler system?
Hi Gerry, there's a couple ways to do this. The best way is to add a new zone by installing a new valve. That way you can control your drip independently of other zones and dial the watering times in to each need. That gets a little technical and you would need to wire the new zone back to the timer assuming that its an automatic system. Good installers will include an extra wire or two in the bundle when installing for future expansion. If not, you would have to run a new hot wire ( you can use the existing common wire, assuming you're adding the new valve near existing valves.) There's another, easier way. you can use an existing zone if there's enough available flow to supply the existing heads plus the drip you want to add. if there's a head you can eliminate, you can use the Rain Bird 1800 Retrofit Kit to make a new drip supply point. It has a pressure regulating filter, and It also has a 1/2" inlet, but if you already have Rain Bird 1800 Sprays, you can just replace the guts of the spray body. Be sure to figure out the flow requirement of the drip you want to add so you can make sure that you're not over-demanding the zone and decrease the performance of the heads already on the zone.
Are there "T" couplings available? The coupling would have 17 mm barbs on the two in line ends and a male barb to be inserted into 1/4" tubing. I do not want to deal with poking holes in the tubing.
>>Also, I see a need for a coupling for PVC pipe with a 1/4 inch barb so drip tubing can be installed from the PVC pipe header...
@@Ted_Michaels There are various Tees available, but I'm not sure if there are any like you're describing. I'll look though, there are a lot of new products and manufacturers of drip. As for the second comment, there are fittings with 1/2" and 3/4" female inlets that have 1-6 drip barbs. They're quite handy for adapting pipe to drip. Be careful though, drip products should have a filter beforehand and also be pressure reduced down to 35 psi or so.
@@Proirrigationtraining Many thanks for your response. A "t" like I described would be fantastic. Also, thank you for your words of caution regarding drip - reduce down to 35 psi and have a filter - this is helpful.
Very Helpful
Which fitting would you recommend for fruit trees and how long would you run them? Thanks
To be honest, there's a lot of variables in your question that i can't begin to answer here. Netafim has an amazing support program for farmers. Go to the Netafim USA website and there's a place to contact them and they can give you precise recommendations for your particular crop.
What is the minimum psi you would recommend. I'm working on setting up a gravity flow system.
Well, most drip products need an 8 or 10 psi minimum to work. If using 1/2" drip tubing, you have a limit of 4 or 5 gpm. which gives a psi loss of 6 - 7 psi per 100'. Also some loss through any supply piping and valves, elbows, etc. will probably bring you up to 20 psi. And we get .433 psi for each foot of elevation rise, so 46.18 feet of elevation.
What kit do you recommend for watering 15 trees, about 150 feet around. Thanks
I personally like using dripline with emitters molded into the tubing. Make a loop about 75% of the way out to the edge of the canopy. You can connect all the loops with solid tubing. There's something similar in some of the practical videos in the drip playlist.
Best video
Ryan Howe
Thanks for this video. I am going to be installing a system in our front yard over the weekend but have never done this and therefore a question:
Is it possible to create a system that can be feed from both a rain barrel (gravity fed) and a hose bib - or do those need to be independent systems? We live in the desert Southwest, and try to use recaptured water as much as possible, but often our rainwater catchment system runs dry
Thanks in advance!
The first concern is how the water will actually be delivered. Most drip products require a minimum of 8 or 10 psi to work. If the rain barrel was elevated 18 - 20', then you could make enough pressure. Or you could drill very small holes in PVC pipes for the delivery system for the rain water. Either way, it probably has to be kept separate unless you can find a way to pressurize the rain water with either a pump or elevation.
Thank you very much! Back to the drawing board it is! Haha! Thanks for the info - and the great video!
Do you know if the brown tubes are smaller than the black tubes? I tried fixing a brown one by cutting out the broken area and adding coupler but it seems that its too big for the brown tube. I tried a barbed coupling, but that didn't fit into the brown tube! I'm frustrated.
Yes, there can be a slight difference in the sizes. Typically, the black tube is 1/2" and the brown tubing is 17mm, which is a difference on the interior diameter of a mm or two. Rainbird's Multi-Diameter Compression Coupling will take care of that.
www.lowes.com/pd/Rain-Bird-1-2-in-Plastic-Drip-irrigation-coupling/1002293686
@@Proirrigationtraining thanks i ended up heating up the tube a pushing a coupling in lol
Please teach about manifold drip system for nursery pots
I do have plans to add that to the drip course soon. Thank you!
Oops, Did not notice Rain Bird Xeri-Bug emitters on video. Sorry
great info thank you for sharing
You're welcome. Hope you get some usable info from the preview clips.
Do you need clamps to hold the tube to the edmitters? And if so what kind of clamps
No clamps are necessary. The emitters have barbed inserts, but you should keep the pressure under 40 psi, preferably at 30 or 35 psi.
I have a combination of bubblers and emitters, but unless I turn off the flow completely, the water comes out 24/7 even though the timer doesn’t start again until the following day. I have had to shut off the main water every day and then turn it on again when the timer dictates. I have tried changing the settings on the bubblers and sprayers but it makes no difference . What should I do?
Hi Robert, there could be a couple things going on. Is there any downhill run to the drip lines? Maybe there's enough water in the pipe after the valve shuts off that it's continuing to push water out the emitters. Or the valve isn't fully closing (which is usually the culprit). Disassemble the valve and flush it out. It's also possible that the timer is malfunctioning and sending voltage to the valve 24/7. Get a voltmeter and check the wire junctions.
@@Proirrigationtraining Thanks so much, as it was the valve needing replacement. It works perfectly now.
Can you combine micosprayers and drip lines on the same source line?
You sure can. That's one of the great things about drip, is it's ability for endless customization.
You said (twice) to set dripper at 1/2 gallon per minute. Did you mean per hour?
yeah, sure enough. My bad, it's tough to keep everything straight on those long videos. So I'm I'm trying to do shorter vids now.
Is dripper irrigation a specialist field in agriculture? Please I need an answer.
To be honest, I don't know. Primarily I deal with residential and commercial irrigation systems.
@@Proirrigationtraining okay, thank for the reply
I have 2-foot x 2-foot containers. I'm finding it hard to water equally the whole area. Also, I have containers and raised beds on the same zone and I'm finding it hard to match the needs of each in the same time frame. Do you have any ideas or do you think I need to expand to 2 zones?
Hi Dolly, I'm so sorry that a reply didn't get posted at the time, I thought I did. The solution is to use a solid drip tubing, then you can tailor the drippers to your needs. Small plant with small water need, use a .5 gallon per hour dripper. For a larger plant, you could use a 2 gph dripper or multiple drippers. For a larger area that drippers may not work the best, you can use a micro spray to provide better or more even coverage. For this strategy to work, the soil needs to be fairly porous and have good drainage, otherwise the water just spreads out sub-surface and the differences in each dripper won't make much difference.
@@Proirrigationtraining Thank you so much. Better late than never. I forgot to mention that this bed is on an incline. Does this affect your recommendations?
@@dollyperry3020 It shouldnt affect much unless the incline is drastic. If the water is flowing downhill, it will pick up .433 psi per one foot of vertical elevation drop. if the water flows uphill, it will lose .433 for each foot of vertical rise.
Who makes the non restricting emitter (grey @ 3:18)? Where online could i find them?
Rain Bird makes that one. www.rainbird.com/products/14-self-piercing-barb-connector
How many .5 droppers can go on a system that is attached to a rain barrell/ tank?
The question relates to how much water flow you have available. If you have enough pressure to push the water, and are using 1/2" delivery tubing, ( supplying 4 gallons per minute) you could theoretically use 480 of the .5 gallons per minute drippers. The problem with rain barrels though is that you don't really get enough pressure to push that much water. You could attach a small pump to the line to bring up the pressure enough to push 4 gpm. If you're using 1/4" delivery tubing (17 gph) then you could use 34 of the .5 gph drippers.
Hey do use 360° emitters on vegetables
Hi John, sorry for the late response. But yes you can use 360 emitters. Really its what you need to directly water the plants or just the roots, depending on the location of the drip tubing. The 360 emitters work great, though.
Any recommendations for Live Oak Trees?
I'm not terribly knowledgeable about trees, but I'm thinking that Live Oaks get pretty large. The size and age would determine where to position a ring of drip line around it. A new planting would need a dripline pretty close in, but a larger established tree would need to be watered further out towards the edge of the canopy where smaller roots are. Closer in to established trees, the roots are thicker and take in less water.
Can I drip a bed and spray over a sidewalk off the same line?
As long as the total flow doesn't exceed the amount the supply pipe or drip tubing can deliver. Most drip tubing has a flow rate of 4 or 5 gallons per minute. Add up all the drippers on the tubing run and see if you have enough left over for a spray. Check the flow rate for the nozzle that either comes with or you purchase seperately to put on the spray.
What is the cost of all the different parts of this system?
I recommend that you find a local supplier to price the parts at, or check with a website that is based in your part of the world. I don't know where you live, but in the US, there's a pretty wide range of prices depending on where you purchase the parts from. There are some good websites like sprinklerwarehouse.com, but i don't know about the cost of shipping.
Hello, can I tap into the drip line instead of the main line?
You sure can, but you have to make sure that whatever you're going to supply doesn't exceed the flow capability of the drip line and the drippers that it's already supplying. If you're just going to put a couple drippers, for a potted plant or something like that, it's probably not an issue, but if you're going to water another whole bed or garden area, you may want to consider tapping into the main line just so you know you'll have enough water available. Of course don't exceed the flow capability of the pipe you're tapping into, either.
Hi, I'm wondering if you can help me w/ this ? I have 2-3 55 gal barrels I'm trying to run gravity drip off of . I have 12 - 4x4' /2' deep boxes . How high do I need them in the air to have enough pressure and what drip Emitters should I use ?. Thanks for any help ..
Hi Kevin, I think the minimum pressure that you would have to generate would be 12 - 14 psi. Most drip-tape products and drip emitters require a minimum of 8 - 10 psi to push through the emitter, and a little extra to account for friction loss through the fittings and pipe. Each foot of elevation rise will get you .433 psi, to get 14 psi at the head of the system, you would need 32.3 ft of vertical rise. That doesn't mean that the barrels need to be straight up vertical. If you have a hill, you could use the slope to accomplish the elevation drop.
Thanks for the info . I have 2- 55 gal . up 4 ft high , with a slope Not sure how to get measurements on the slope ? Any info would be great .. thanks again :)
The best way I know of is to use a laser level and a stick of pipe. Remember that what matters is the straight vertical elevation rise. Place the laser level on the ground up the slope. Walk down the slope with the stick of pipe. Hold the pipe vertical with end on the ground. Move it around until you see the laser line on the pipe. Mark and measure that point and you've got the vertical elevation rise between the place where the pipe touched and the laser level. You can repeat the process for a long slope. Again, you're going to need at least 32' of vertical rise. If you can't achieve that much elevation, you can drill small holes in PVC pipe and use that as your drip delivery system. That's far from perfect, a last resort if you can't generate enough pressure to use drip products.
Whole puncher where do u get that
Hi Mary, here is one that you can buy from DripWorks: Purple Handle Punch - www.dripworks.com/purple-handle-punch?ref=dJkigxYO
Where can I buy a kit for containers?
In the US, you can find really good kits in pretty much any hardware store.