Got some usefull tips from This and the comments. Now for my 2 cents; I live in S. California some times pocket gophers chew through my drip system so I keep every thing above ground its easy to find leaks that way one leak can dramatically effect the entire system and your water bill. Steaking down the lines to prevents tripping, and use 5' bamboo sticks with color tape at top, next to emitters in frequently used pathways to keep from stepping on them.
Great video , im researching on how exactly how I am going to start a small orchard on property i just purchased in northern Florida. I knew i was going with drio irrigation, from oast research. I love the fact that you took thw time to explain all the different types of trees you have and also how much water they need.
Thank you for the video, I have fruit trees around the perimeter of my yard and have been wanting to do an irrigation system. It's good to know that it's somewhat easy.
The one issue I can spot with your system is that the pressure reducer is hooked up before the valve. Most pressure reducers state that they should not be hooked up to constant pressure as they will fail far sooner. Move it as well as your filter downstream from the valve and it should be good to go.
Agreed, using the various drip components is the easiest way to move water where it's needed. Plugged, non-working emitters .. yeah that's the biggest drawback, I guess. It can be hard to tell until the plants are stressed (or dead!). Sometimes the reason is unclear, could be calcium buildup, dirt, bugs, etc. Even so .. it's still the most maintainable, most easily modifiable way to water. Thanks for the video, good work.
In the Australian weather, drip really is the only way to go, interesting on the drippers you use, the same type I use for the blueberries and diosma, to get the surface roots drenched. For everything else, we use drip lines with built-in emitters just under the mulch. Around each tree I do a drip ring, around the drip line of the tree, so the roots get a good soaking but can leave the trunk dry, we can get humid days so not getting the truck wet saves on diseases. Then run drip lines up and down the food forest for the annuals, and perennials (brambles, strawberries). Although will need to redo the entire thing in August just before our spring, we went from 7 trees to 24 in 60 sq metres, and I need to run a ton of new line and move other lines. For your brambles, try a drip line with emitters over your sprayers, does wonders and I find less disease at the base of the plants.
Drip emitters under mulch isn't ideal. I used to do that but was advised against it by an avocado farmer. Especially for trees like citrus and avocado that have a shallow root system. A fruit trees feeder roots are near the surface of the soil. Micro sprinklers water the surface of the soil evenly like a natural rain.
So is that the same thing busy gardner is talking about or something different? I have peach trees im planning irrigation for and would love all the info i can get. Thanks@@econ0003
I live in Texas and we already have temperatures in the 90s I have some fruit trees in containers like apple, cherry, fig, peach and some citrus like Meyer lemon, mandarin and orange. I’m using mulch but bought an irrigation system. My question is how often should I use it?
It really has to do with how often your soil dries out. I've got pretty sandy soil, and am watering 1-2x per week depending on weather. A more clay soil might need less. An inexpensive moisture meter from Amazon would give you a better idea. You want to water when the moisture begins to enter "dry" on the meter
My area water has lots of sediment. A filter off the house is not practical. We would go through a filter a week. Is a system like you explain advised? Thank you.
The filter on a drip system like this is a washable filter, and when it catches sediment, still allows water to pass by. Think of it more as a screen that catches stuff than a filter which absorbs it
Thanks! It starts with the emitters which are rated to put out a certain amount of gallons per hour. I multiply that number x how many gallons I think a tree needs (start out with less, and increase as you see need), and run it long enough to get that tree the number of gallons I'm looking for. It's inexact, with SOOOO many variable affecting the "perfect amount" of water for a given tree.
In your system put one tree worth of emiters in a bucket and put it on for an hour. Then count the litres in the bucket. Best to sink the bucket in the ground so not to raise the emiters higher than the others. I leave my bucket there for future use and animals to drink from.
New site for me. Thank you. Helpful walk-through. Where is your orchard located? Meaning, climate-wise. Does your area freeze? Does it need to be blown-own? I'm in Nashville, new house, about to plant trees. Your approach looks sensible for this.
Thanks for watching! We don't freeze in our area of SoCal, so we don't have to adjust for that. I know drip line is a lot more forgiving to expansion than rigid pipes, so perhaps not. You can't go wrong with blowing them out, burying them below the frost depth, or checking with best practices in freezing climates. That said, it is a VERY simply setup which has worked great for us for years.
great vid and practical explanation of all this stuff. I've used drip for basic landscaping in my front yard forever but never really thought much about it until I put in my small orchard last year- 27 trees( might go a few more too) so all of a sudden i need to be an expert on the system and the GPH factors. One question I had for you is do you ever worry about the trunks of your trees getting sprayed directly too much if the trunks are within the range of the diameter of the spray of the emitters? Thanks! great stuff!
Hey! Generally watering once a week for mature trees in spring, twice a week in consistent weather in the 90s+. Not sure how many gallons specifically, but generally run for a couple hours on drip, so likely between 25-40 gallons per grouping, depending on the emitter. I have great wood chip mulch which helps a ton
Drip irrigation makes watering specific plants and areas soooo easy, so flexible, so adjustable. It's really a no-brainer for the home gardener. Here is an affiliate link to some drip irrigation gear: www.amazon.com/shop/thebusygardener?listId=8SHTLKPS7243 I lean heavily on the irrigation section at Home Depot as well.
By far the best watering system for plants is by hand with a 1 inch hose and lots of pressure. There is no run off if you do it right. But this is labour intensive.
I saw a video from Ewing Irrigation saying that the max run of a poly should not exceed 300 ft. (The longer the length the more friction you have and therefore it will reduce the pressure of the water).
Some trees will require drippers/emitters while for others mini sprinklers might make more sense. Is it possible to have both drippers/emitters and sprinklers (both having different operating pressures)within the same watering system?
That's a good question. As I understand it, as long as the drip system is providing pressure that is within the operating range of the emitters and sprinklers, you ought to be ok.
I am going back to regular PVC piping with bubblers. The wildlife kept chewing on my drip irrigation system looking for water. I will do flood irrigation and water my tropical fruit tree orchard couple times a day especially in the summer months.
Great video. I live in California where surface evaporation is a real issue so I’m focused on true drip. I’ve built 1/2” rings around my trees with sow emitters to ensure the water can satiate to root depth (through clay soil at the drip line). Do you have any advice on saturating deeply with larger square footage root zone? Again love the content 🤘
I use above ground emitters because I want water to hit the whole root system, AND water topically spread fertilizer down into the soil. I water at night and very early morning so less evaporation
Doesn't the water sitting in the black 1/2 inch main lines get hot? My regular garden hose has hot water coming out of it for a few minutes sitting in the sun the hottest part of the day and would burn the roots of plants. I have to let all that hot water run out before I can get cool water for the plants or trees.
My watering is all scheduled for the middle of the night and early morning, so this hasn't been an issue. The danger is even less pronounced for established trees
I'm referring to the overall category as "drip", As opposed to traditional sprinkler system. The specific emitters themselves aren't the main focus of this video.
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Extremely informative and educational. Loved watching and listening to you, sir.
Best gardener! You make everything simple and easy and not scary. Thank you 👍
That's so kind of you to say! I really do try to keep it simple! 😄
Great video, learned everything needed, You Da Mannn !
Got some usefull tips from This and the comments. Now for my 2 cents; I live in S. California some times pocket gophers chew through my drip system so I keep every thing above ground its easy to find leaks that way one leak can dramatically effect the entire system and your water bill. Steaking down the lines to prevents tripping, and use 5' bamboo sticks with color tape at top, next to emitters in frequently used pathways to keep from stepping on them.
Thank you Kam for covering your drip system. I've waiting to see your irrigation system for some time now. Keep it up
Glad to finally feature it!
Great video , im researching on how exactly how I am going to start a small orchard on property i just purchased in northern Florida. I knew i was going with drio irrigation, from oast research. I love the fact that you took thw time to explain all the different types of trees you have and also how much water they need.
I loooove your channel 💞💞thank you for the Great Information😊
Wow, thanks for watching! 😃
Thank you for the video, I have fruit trees around the perimeter of my yard and have been wanting to do an irrigation system. It's good to know that it's somewhat easy.
Totally easy! And much more easy if you've got a single line you're running
The one issue I can spot with your system is that the pressure reducer is hooked up before the valve. Most pressure reducers state that they should not be hooked up to constant pressure as they will fail far sooner. Move it as well as your filter downstream from the valve and it should be good to go.
Good call, Daniel! I'm looking at re-doing that setup, and will use that wisdom
Agreed, using the various drip components is the easiest way to move water where it's needed. Plugged, non-working emitters .. yeah that's the biggest drawback, I guess. It can be hard to tell until the plants are stressed (or dead!). Sometimes the reason is unclear, could be calcium buildup, dirt, bugs, etc. Even so .. it's still the most maintainable, most easily modifiable way to water. Thanks for the video, good work.
Yes! So flexible! Plugged (or even popped off) are the worst, but still the best option around, IMO
Good innovative arrangement for watering,thanks for message
Thanks a lot!
Subbed man!!! Youre freaking thorough and awesome. Your my motivation
I appreciate that!
Thank you!
Love the tip regarding splitting off deciduous from evergreen. Thanks for the helpful info!
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for the video. It was very helpful.
You're welcome! I'm glad it helped shed some light on this.
In the Australian weather, drip really is the only way to go, interesting on the drippers you use, the same type I use for the blueberries and diosma, to get the surface roots drenched.
For everything else, we use drip lines with built-in emitters just under the mulch. Around each tree I do a drip ring, around the drip line of the tree, so the roots get a good soaking but can leave the trunk dry, we can get humid days so not getting the truck wet saves on diseases. Then run drip lines up and down the food forest for the annuals, and perennials (brambles, strawberries).
Although will need to redo the entire thing in August just before our spring, we went from 7 trees to 24 in 60 sq metres, and I need to run a ton of new line and move other lines.
For your brambles, try a drip line with emitters over your sprayers, does wonders and I find less disease at the base of the plants.
Drip emitters under mulch isn't ideal. I used to do that but was advised against it by an avocado farmer. Especially for trees like citrus and avocado that have a shallow root system. A fruit trees feeder roots are near the surface of the soil. Micro sprinklers water the surface of the soil evenly like a natural rain.
So is that the same thing busy gardner is talking about or something different? I have peach trees im planning irrigation for and would love all the info i can get. Thanks@@econ0003
Hi there! Great video, thanks! This video was done 2 years ago. Is there a follow-up video about how your drip irrigation is doing?
I live in Texas and we already have temperatures in the 90s I have some fruit trees in containers like apple, cherry, fig, peach and some citrus like Meyer lemon, mandarin and orange. I’m using mulch but bought an irrigation system. My question is how often should I use it?
It really has to do with how often your soil dries out. I've got pretty sandy soil, and am watering 1-2x per week depending on weather. A more clay soil might need less. An inexpensive moisture meter from Amazon would give you a better idea. You want to water when the moisture begins to enter "dry" on the meter
Great video! This is a very helpful information.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks so much! I am looking for the best irrigation system for my new fruit tree garden. Great information about citrus trees should be separated.
I'm glad it helped Dede!
Which Wi-Fi controller with rain sensor do you use? Thank you
My area water has lots of sediment. A filter off the house is not practical. We would go through a filter a week. Is a system like you explain advised? Thank you.
The filter on a drip system like this is a washable filter, and when it catches sediment, still allows water to pass by. Think of it more as a screen that catches stuff than a filter which absorbs it
This was a great video. Can you explain how you figure out how long to run the water for please?
Thanks! It starts with the emitters which are rated to put out a certain amount of gallons per hour. I multiply that number x how many gallons I think a tree needs (start out with less, and increase as you see need), and run it long enough to get that tree the number of gallons I'm looking for. It's inexact, with SOOOO many variable affecting the "perfect amount" of water for a given tree.
In your system put one tree worth of emiters in a bucket and put it on for an hour. Then count the litres in the bucket. Best to sink the bucket in the ground so not to raise the emiters higher than the others. I leave my bucket there for future use and animals to drink from.
New site for me. Thank you. Helpful walk-through. Where is your orchard located? Meaning, climate-wise. Does your area freeze? Does it need to be blown-own? I'm in Nashville, new house, about to plant trees. Your approach looks sensible for this.
Thanks for watching! We don't freeze in our area of SoCal, so we don't have to adjust for that. I know drip line is a lot more forgiving to expansion than rigid pipes, so perhaps not. You can't go wrong with blowing them out, burying them below the frost depth, or checking with best practices in freezing climates. That said, it is a VERY simply setup which has worked great for us for years.
great vid and practical explanation of all this stuff. I've used drip for basic landscaping in my front yard forever but never really thought much about it until I put in my small orchard last year- 27 trees( might go a few more too) so all of a sudden i need to be an expert on the system and the GPH factors. One question I had for you is do you ever worry about the trunks of your trees getting sprayed directly too much if the trunks are within the range of the diameter of the spray of the emitters? Thanks! great stuff!
Thanks, John! I don't worry about the trunks. THe pressure is low enough, and watering infrequent enough that I haven't seen any negative effects!
Right, when it rains the trunks get wet....
How often do you water your trees in the Spring? How many gallons do you give each citrus tree roughly?
Hey! Generally watering once a week for mature trees in spring, twice a week in consistent weather in the 90s+. Not sure how many gallons specifically, but generally run for a couple hours on drip, so likely between 25-40 gallons per grouping, depending on the emitter. I have great wood chip mulch which helps a ton
Drip irrigation makes watering specific plants and areas soooo easy, so flexible, so adjustable. It's really a no-brainer for the home gardener. Here is an affiliate link to some drip irrigation gear: www.amazon.com/shop/thebusygardener?listId=8SHTLKPS7243 I lean heavily on the irrigation section at Home Depot as well.
By far the best watering system for plants is by hand with a 1 inch hose and lots of pressure. There is no run off if you do it right. But this is labour intensive.
What's the furthest length you can run the 1/2 poly pipe?
Hi Eric! I'm not sure the exact maximum length, but do know that the longer the run, the less total water it can supply
I saw a video from Ewing Irrigation saying that the max run of a poly should not exceed 300 ft. (The longer the length the more friction you have and therefore it will reduce the pressure of the water).
Some trees will require drippers/emitters while for others mini sprinklers might make more sense. Is it possible to have both drippers/emitters and sprinklers (both having different operating pressures)within the same watering system?
That's a good question. As I understand it, as long as the drip system is providing pressure that is within the operating range of the emitters and sprinklers, you ought to be ok.
@@TheBusyGardener TY. I will be trying it out soon, will update you about the same once I have data. Good day.
1/2inch line is it polypipe or dripper pipe itself thanks?
I use blank 1/2 inch line that has 1/4 inch line inserted along the run to individual emitters
I am going back to regular PVC piping with bubblers. The wildlife kept chewing on my drip irrigation system looking for water. I will do flood irrigation and water my tropical fruit tree orchard couple times a day especially in the summer months.
Those pesky wildlife keep us on our toes in so many ways!
I stopped rats chewing pipes by putting a water bowl for them. May not be the best solution.
Great video. I live in California where surface evaporation is a real issue so I’m focused on true drip. I’ve built 1/2” rings around my trees with sow emitters to ensure the water can satiate to root depth (through clay soil at the drip line). Do you have any advice on saturating deeply with larger square footage root zone? Again love the content 🤘
I use above ground emitters because I want water to hit the whole root system, AND water topically spread fertilizer down into the soil. I water at night and very early morning so less evaporation
16:25 making sure this one “Hass” enough water? 🥑
Nooooooo! LOL The dad-joke bone was tickled
Doesn't the water sitting in the black 1/2 inch main lines get hot? My regular garden hose has hot water coming out of it for a few minutes sitting in the sun the hottest part of the day and would burn the roots of plants. I have to let all that hot water run out before I can get cool water for the plants or trees.
My watering is all scheduled for the middle of the night and early morning, so this hasn't been an issue. The danger is even less pronounced for established trees
@@TheBusyGardener thank you. That's a great idea to water when it isn't so hot.
Dude looks like Grant Cardones brother
Don't insult Grant Cardone like that! 😂
Why do call them drip when these are micro misters?
How do these differ to micro misters or spinners?
I'm referring to the overall category as "drip", As opposed to traditional sprinkler system. The specific emitters themselves aren't the main focus of this video.
Yea, they are deff not drips and are sprays.