Super demonstration on what and how to use these products for filling gaps. After watching this video I am confident I could repeat the process on one of my kits. Time will tell if I am as successful as you were.
Thanks for the video brother. I'm still waiting on my Ammo Mig Gun Metal pigment to come on the mail so I can try this out. I already have Zap A Gap thin CA on hand.
Thank ya for sharing this. This is one of those things that are priceless. I am going to get me some of those loopers....... ill tell the wife to get them for me, lol. Next week is my birthday and she’s been asking what I want for it. Thank you again Sean. I appreciate it.
I would love to see a new project about the F-15 prototype with grey and orange ( hi visibility )colors, please think about that, it would be my dream to see it
I tried this out with Vallejo Dark Iron and it worked too. Funny because I’m not really yuge (this is sure to trigger some hahaha) on Vallejo products in general.
Thanks. Very helpful. One question. You have also talked about "sprue goo" ( sprue pcs melted in Tamiya cement). What are the differences and when do you use each?
Thanks Ted. It’s old carpet and there are lots of stains. I think this summer I’m gonna rip it out and put down some laminate flooring...that way I won’t lose as many parts too.
Thanks buddy. Super helpful as always. I have used this since you told me about it. I’ll have to get the ammo mig pigment. The brand I have mixes fine, but I end up with a black mess while sanding it. Maybe too much pigment? I’m thinking I could use less pigment and more layers?
You make it look too easy! I will try this technique on my current project (Revell 747 8F) because everything else I have tried from your tutorials has worked! Please tell me the Colombia isn’t done. I want that project to keep going! Especially after SPACEX canceled launch today.
Good thing to know do you get any shrinkage I used glue and painted and it was beautiful and I baked my paint and my glue shrink and now I can see my seam under my paint
None. But if you use Tamiya extra thin, let the melted plastic cure a couple of days. What happens if you apply this too soon after gluing, the plastic hasn’t fully “settled” and it will appear that the CA has shrunk. It’s actually the plastic under it that’s shrunk.
Would this work if you were to closely line the gap with masking tape to minimise overspill and prevent collateral damage when sanding or would the CA just bond the masking tape permanently to the plastic. I know it works with ‘normal’ putty, but CA?
It wouldn’t “permanently” bond it as you could sand it away. However, the reason that I like this method is because I can put it exactly where I want it therefore taping off an area is unnecessary.
Thanks for the tutorial. Keep up the great work! Just curious if you're still making and selling your Primed Model Works tshirts? I would love to buy one
I know how things change and life happens. I saw your shirt idea and tried to help your daughter. Thanks for replying. Keep up the great builds and stay safe
No I don’t. I’ve got a couple bottles and didn’t realize how hard it is to find now. Mr Model Man commented on this video and says it’s the same as graphite powder. He said it works so I’m gonna order some from amazon to see for myself. Definitely would be a better option as it’s much much cheaper and more available.
@@seanerk5kt9 frikkin awesome Man! Gonna try the graphite powder. Thanks for sharing your modeling knowledge and also a big thanks for your service and sacrifice when you were LEO Brother!!! Blue Line!!!!
Been watching your video for while and am very impressed with your work. I may be requiring your help with something. How can I contact you? Tried your website which seems to no longer exist and can’t find you on Facebook. I’d be grateful for a way to contact you.
I just got some graphite dry lubricant in and it works just as well. Cheaper too, I picked up a 1 ounce bottle on eBay for $7 shipped...here’s a link to amazon which looks like they only have a 2 ouncer www.amazon.com/dp/B00AC0NUAA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_NWx0EbJ5918AT
Glad to hear it's working for you too! Thanks for making this video - since you uploaded it I've been playing around with my 2 kinds of graphite powder and various CA glues and I've now got a new favourite way of filling those annoying seams.
I think that MIG stuff is nothing more than powdered graphite. The brand I use is Koh-I-Noor but there are many others. Here in the UK the MIG 'pigment' is £7 for 35ml and Koh-I-Noor is £6 for 80ml: www.pencils4artists.co.uk/koh-i-noor-80g-graphite-powder-c2x18640614 Thanks for the video, going to try it now!
I think you are getting way more complicated than needed. Just use talcum powder as the filler. So if you have a depression or like with resin castings an air bubble hole that needs filling rub talcum powder into the hole and then rub over that a cotton bud dipped in superglue. The superglue instantly soaks the the talcum filler and the hole is filled and ready to sand.
I think you’re missing the point of my method. Because the ca doesn’t instantly cure in the metal pigment, I can be more precise with it and use it more like a thin filler. I’ve tried your suggestion before and I like this method much better.
@@seanerk5kt9 oh, I was just surprised, as to me, you don't look like you were working in law enforcement. Law enforcement is awesome, did not wanted to sound in any way offensive. Sorry if I did in anyway. Love your work and videos!
Lol...i don’t get offended. I was just confused as to what you were asking. I spent a little over 18 years in it mostly in investigations and a lot of that time in a drug unit. I ended up drinking to deal with issues that go along with the job and started to spiral downhill from there. Fortunately I have a great family that picked me up before I destroyed myself. I decided to quit and I wish I would’ve done it sooner. If I had to do it all over again, I would’ve became a motorcycle mechanic :)
Super demonstration on what and how to use these products for filling gaps. After watching this video I am confident I could repeat the process on one of my kits. Time will tell if I am as successful as you were.
Great tutorial !!!! What , no coffee !!! Hope you are having a great weekend , Tony
Yeah, I realized I forgot after I uploaded it :(
I just tried this process. It is awesome! Thank you for sharing this! What a time saver! The glue loopers are awesome!
Thanks for the video brother. I'm still waiting on my Ammo Mig Gun Metal pigment to come on the mail so I can try this out. I already have Zap A Gap thin CA on hand.
Thanks for passing this along. I might try this. I get great results with "sprue glue" as of now.
Thank ya for sharing this. This is one of those things that are priceless. I am going to get me some of those loopers....... ill tell the wife to get them for me, lol. Next week is my birthday and she’s been asking what I want for it. Thank you again Sean. I appreciate it.
I would love to see a new project about the F-15 prototype with grey and orange ( hi visibility )colors, please think about that, it would be my dream to see it
Also works with the CHROME version of Uschi van der Rosten pigment
I think this is a good technique. I was wondering if it have to be a "METALLIC PIGMENT", or could you use other non pigment product that works.
I tried this out with Vallejo Dark Iron and it worked too. Funny because I’m not really yuge (this is sure to trigger some hahaha) on Vallejo products in general.
Thanks. Very helpful. One question. You have also talked about "sprue goo" ( sprue pcs melted in Tamiya cement). What are the differences and when do you use each?
Sprue goo takes a lot longer to cure before sanding and fuses to the plastic.
Nice Space Shuttle. How many times ave you changed the carpet in your workshop due to spills, etc? You must have a very understanding wife!
Thanks Ted. It’s old carpet and there are lots of stains. I think this summer I’m gonna rip it out and put down some laminate flooring...that way I won’t lose as many parts too.
Awesome knowledge!!!!
Thanks buddy. Super helpful as always. I have used this since you told me about it. I’ll have to get the ammo mig pigment. The brand I have mixes fine, but I end up with a black mess while sanding it. Maybe too much pigment? I’m thinking I could use less pigment and more layers?
It’s messy. The more pigment you use, the softer it is but it does get messier. What kind are you using?
Secret Weapon Pigments “Metallic Iron”
You make it look too easy! I will try this technique on my current project (Revell 747 8F) because everything else I have tried from your tutorials has worked! Please tell me the Colombia isn’t done. I want that project to keep going! Especially after SPACEX canceled launch today.
Good thing to know do you get any shrinkage I used glue and painted and it was beautiful and I baked my paint and my glue shrink and now I can see my seam under my paint
None. But if you use Tamiya extra thin, let the melted plastic cure a couple of days. What happens if you apply this too soon after gluing, the plastic hasn’t fully “settled” and it will appear that the CA has shrunk. It’s actually the plastic under it that’s shrunk.
Kind of what I figured happened to me I used testors liquid cement for plastic in that black bottle
That's kind of what I figured happened to me how use the testers in the Black Bottle
Learned it.
Would this work if you were to closely line the gap with masking tape to minimise overspill and prevent collateral damage when sanding or would the CA just bond the masking tape permanently to the plastic. I know it works with ‘normal’ putty, but CA?
It wouldn’t “permanently” bond it as you could sand it away. However, the reason that I like this method is because I can put it exactly where I want it therefore taping off an area is unnecessary.
Thanks for the tutorial. Keep up the great work!
Just curious if you're still making and selling your Primed Model Works tshirts? I would love to buy one
Never got around to making any for sale...sorry my friend
I know how things change and life happens. I saw your shirt idea and tried to help your daughter. Thanks for replying. Keep up the great builds and stay safe
I wonder how this compares to the baking powder and ca glue method.
It’s totally different. The baking powder causes the ca to cure almost instantly.
Do you know if the ammo pigment that you use there is graphite based?
I’m guessing it is. I bought some graphite lubricant and it works almost as good
Sean, I can't find this stuff in stock anywhere in the US . . do you have a source> Thanks :)
No I don’t. I’ve got a couple bottles and didn’t realize how hard it is to find now. Mr Model Man commented on this video and says it’s the same as graphite powder. He said it works so I’m gonna order some from amazon to see for myself. Definitely would be a better option as it’s much much cheaper and more available.
@@seanerk5kt9 frikkin awesome Man! Gonna try the graphite powder. Thanks for sharing your modeling knowledge and also a big thanks for your service and sacrifice when you were LEO Brother!!! Blue Line!!!!
took a vacation from your bench buddy?
Been watching your video for while and am very impressed with your work. I may be requiring your help with something. How can I contact you? Tried your website which seems to no longer exist and can’t find you on Facebook. I’d be grateful for a way to contact you.
Seanerk@hotmail.com
I just got some graphite dry lubricant in and it works just as well. Cheaper too, I picked up a 1 ounce bottle on eBay for $7 shipped...here’s a link to amazon which looks like they only have a 2 ouncer
www.amazon.com/dp/B00AC0NUAA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_NWx0EbJ5918AT
Glad to hear it's working for you too! Thanks for making this video - since you uploaded it I've been playing around with my 2 kinds of graphite powder and various CA glues and I've now got a new favourite way of filling those annoying seams.
Thanks for turning me on to the graphite powder Mr Model Man!
Your wed page does not work.
No coffee?
I forgot :(
I think that MIG stuff is nothing more than powdered graphite. The brand I use is Koh-I-Noor but there are many others. Here in the UK the MIG 'pigment' is £7 for 35ml and Koh-I-Noor is £6 for 80ml:
www.pencils4artists.co.uk/koh-i-noor-80g-graphite-powder-c2x18640614
Thanks for the video, going to try it now!
I think you are getting way more complicated than needed. Just use talcum powder as the filler. So if you have a depression or like with resin castings an air bubble hole that needs filling rub talcum powder into the hole and then rub over that a cotton bud dipped in superglue. The superglue instantly soaks the the talcum filler and the hole is filled and ready to sand.
I think you’re missing the point of my method. Because the ca doesn’t instantly cure in the metal pigment, I can be more precise with it and use it more like a thin filler. I’ve tried your suggestion before and I like this method much better.
law enforcement?
What?
@@seanerk5kt9 oh, I was just surprised, as to me, you don't look like you were working in law enforcement. Law enforcement is awesome, did not wanted to sound in any way offensive. Sorry if I did in anyway. Love your work and videos!
Lol...i don’t get offended. I was just confused as to what you were asking. I spent a little over 18 years in it mostly in investigations and a lot of that time in a drug unit. I ended up drinking to deal with issues that go along with the job and started to spiral downhill from there. Fortunately I have a great family that picked me up before I destroyed myself. I decided to quit and I wish I would’ve done it sooner. If I had to do it all over again, I would’ve became a motorcycle mechanic :)
@@seanerk5kt9 so no retired or just no work?
Just up and quit. Rolled my retirement over into an IRA. Now I’m a stay at home dad and a builder of plastic models.