I discovered bondo,body putty as a kid,because my dad kept it around all the time,and I had bad results from the testers fillers,squadron fillers bad...then grabbed dear old dad's tube of bondo spot putty,instant love at first experience,using thinner to make it more usable was also an easy choice. learning to use tape on eather side of the seam to control the bleed over so less sanding wasn't learned till much later. I learned too that thin coats worked better and too much melts the plastic,trial and error back then. Now guys can turn to you,great job,thanks for sharing. We learn two ways,the hard way,or getting info from others,thanks to the internet,wow,I learn way more now than ever. Happy Modeling. Check out scratchin Jack and Amazing Plastics some time,you will see me there once in a while.1
This and episodes 110 and 125 make a very nice trilogy. Your rigorous treatment of the subject matter is refreshing and much appreciated. Keep up the great work.
GREAT fundamental video Will, I had a really close quarters situation that required a little filler and was gonna be a bugger to sand, hmmm...Will had that filler tutorial....yeah you had it covered. Mr. surfacer and my Tamiya lacquer thinner to the rescue. Thanks Will, keep up the great work !
Another fascinating, and pretty comprehensive treatise on fillers, what they're made from/based on, and in particular, WHEN and HOW to use each of them. Thanks for filming and posting, Will. And this one is going straight into my "essential modelling tutorials" playlist. Along with quite a few others of your very well produced, and easy to follow 'How To's'. Thanks, Will. 👍👍
I discovered bondo,body putty as a kid,because my dad kept it around all the time,and I had bad results from the testers fillers,squadron fillers bad...then grabbed dear old dad's tube of bondo spot putty,instant love at first experience,using thinner to make it more usable was also an easy choice. learning to use tape on eather side of the seam to control the bleed over so less sanding wasn't learned till much later. I learned too that thin coats worked better and too much melts the plastic,trial and error back then. Now guys can turn to you,great job,thanks for sharing. We learn two ways,the hard way,or getting info from others,thanks to the internet,wow,I learn way more now than ever. Happy Modeling. Check out scratchin Jack and Amazing Plastics some time,you will see me there once in a while.
A good replacement for Perfect Plastic Putty could be AK interactive's Modeling Grey or White Putty. I use this stuff it's awesome, it comes in a metal tube, is water based, it's a really nice consistency and can be put on with a brush and thinned with water if you want, dries pretty quick so you don't have to wait, sands really good especially when sanding with water because it helps soften it up. Its one of the most important products on my bench I highly recommend it.
congratulation on episode 100!!! well layed out vid. believe it or not, I have had the most luck with Testors Contour putty. But I have seen one or two that you talked about that I will try. Thank you.
Getting your Perfect Plastic Putty to last longer in that dry climate - try storing it in an emptied out/sealed jam jar. Have found it works to at the very least a small degree? Good vid, great detail and thoughtfulness. Watched it twice now and picked up stuff from it on the second run that I missed on the first. Please keep it on line.
You can use Apoxie Safety Solvent to smooth out the Apoxie, or even thin it out so it goes into gaps better. An easier alternative is Milliput (also an epoxy putty) that’s way more water soluble until it cures completely, and a bit less ”grainy”. Super easy to smooth it out, polish it, and force it down gaps and lines using a wet brush or a q-tip. Just remember to keep your tools and fingers moist so it doesn’t stick to them, like with Apoxie.
i'd been using acetone to retard the bondo, lacquer thinner works much better! just a drop of mr. color thinner (regular, not unicorn tears) takes bondo from great product that's finnicky to paintable filler. oh man. i love these old videos of yours because i never know what i might pick up.
interesting vid Will. I have the same issue with perfect plastic putty and have resorted to adding a few drops of water to the bottle each time before I reseal it. I find that putting a little on a pallet and adding water to make almost a wash, then running it around surface detail on armour ,works really well. I then us a stiff brush once dry to remove the excess. btw. have you tried the white liquid filler tamiya do in a glass bottle. it has its uses as it is so thin and runs along seams nicely
Hey WIll, I couldn't agree with you more regarding Perfect Plastic Putty. I heard about this stuff on RUclips and thought I would give it a try. One of the local hobby stores where I Iive had some of it and so I bought some. When I got home and opened the tube, it was dry to the bone. So, I am not a big fan of it.
Hummm... Sherwin Williams painter's caulk is exactly like what you described Vallejo Plastic Putty, it is latex caulk, and while wet, before dry it reacts with water, but after dry it will not, and is sandable to a point, but like that of fine grade. Perhaps you can use painter's chalk wet, the same way you might use Vallejo Plastic putty? (Putting it on, then swiping it down into the seam or gap immediately using a wet rag or q-tip, then letting it dry as is, no sanding required.) Downside: it does shrink a bit.
Beginning at 27:24, you compare the situations you like to use Mr. Surfacer to the situations you might use a water-based filler. Is the only difference that you would use the PPP on a painted surface and the Mr. Surfacer on raw plastic?
One of the best videos on fillers I've seen
I discovered bondo,body putty as a kid,because my dad kept it around all the time,and I had bad results from the testers fillers,squadron fillers bad...then grabbed dear old dad's tube of bondo spot putty,instant love at first experience,using thinner to make it more usable was also an easy choice. learning to use tape on eather side of the seam to control the bleed over so less sanding wasn't learned till much later. I learned too that thin coats worked better and too much melts the plastic,trial and error back then. Now guys can turn to you,great job,thanks for sharing. We learn two ways,the hard way,or getting info from others,thanks to the internet,wow,I learn way more now than ever. Happy Modeling. Check out scratchin Jack and Amazing Plastics some time,you will see me there once in a while.1
I've been working with this Bondo, but straight out of the tube. Your techniques with thining it out is going to help a lot. Thanks!
A good video on fillers! Good tip on mixing lacquer thinners with spot glazing putty
This is an excellent video! Thank you for taking the time to explain and demonstrate the difference between these fillers!
This and episodes 110 and 125 make a very nice trilogy. Your rigorous treatment of the subject matter is refreshing and much appreciated. Keep up the great work.
GREAT fundamental video Will, I had a really close quarters situation that required a little filler and was gonna be a bugger to sand, hmmm...Will had that filler tutorial....yeah you had it covered. Mr. surfacer and my Tamiya lacquer thinner to the rescue. Thanks Will, keep up the great work !
Thanks for the informative video as well as your other in depth discussions in other videos.
Another fascinating, and pretty comprehensive treatise on fillers, what they're made from/based on, and in particular, WHEN and HOW to use each of them. Thanks for filming and posting, Will. And this one is going straight into my "essential modelling tutorials" playlist. Along with quite a few others of your very well produced, and easy to follow 'How To's'. Thanks, Will. 👍👍
I discovered bondo,body putty as a kid,because my dad kept it around all the time,and I had bad results from the testers fillers,squadron fillers bad...then grabbed dear old dad's tube of bondo spot putty,instant love at first experience,using thinner to make it more usable was also an easy choice. learning to use tape on eather side of the seam to control the bleed over so less sanding wasn't learned till much later. I learned too that thin coats worked better and too much melts the plastic,trial and error back then. Now guys can turn to you,great job,thanks for sharing. We learn two ways,the hard way,or getting info from others,thanks to the internet,wow,I learn way more now than ever. Happy Modeling. Check out scratchin Jack and Amazing Plastics some time,you will see me there once in a while.
A good replacement for Perfect Plastic Putty could be AK interactive's Modeling Grey or White Putty. I use this stuff it's awesome, it comes in a metal tube, is water based, it's a really nice consistency and can be put on with a brush and thinned with water if you want, dries pretty quick so you don't have to wait, sands really good especially when sanding with water because it helps soften it up. Its one of the most important products on my bench I highly recommend it.
I saw one of these putties marketed under another name and loved it. But they are no more. So here it is -bondo. Thanks for a good video.
Excellent Will. I almost bought a couple of brands you mentioned. Thanks for saving me some money.
Excellent work sir. Thanks for sharing 😂👍🏻🙃🙃
congratulation on episode 100!!! well layed out vid. believe it or not, I have had the most luck with Testors Contour putty. But I have seen one or two that you talked about that I will try. Thank you.
Great science Will.. filled a lot of gaps in my modelling knowledge (pun intended)..
Another great video, thank you and congratulation on episode 100!
thx. great with how too. much respect and keep it up. gratulation to episode 100!
Getting your Perfect Plastic Putty to last longer in that dry climate - try storing it in an emptied out/sealed jam jar. Have found it works to at the very least a small degree? Good vid, great detail and thoughtfulness. Watched it twice now and picked up stuff from it on the second run that I missed on the first. Please keep it on line.
You can use Apoxie Safety Solvent to smooth out the Apoxie, or even thin it out so it goes into gaps better. An easier alternative is Milliput (also an epoxy putty) that’s way more water soluble until it cures completely, and a bit less ”grainy”. Super easy to smooth it out, polish it, and force it down gaps and lines using a wet brush or a q-tip. Just remember to keep your tools and fingers moist so it doesn’t stick to them, like with Apoxie.
Thank you for this!
i'd been using acetone to retard the bondo, lacquer thinner works much better!
just a drop of mr. color thinner (regular, not unicorn tears) takes bondo from great product that's finnicky to paintable filler. oh man. i love these old videos of yours because i never know what i might pick up.
You can also use Humbrol or any other enamel paint for small joints instead of the Mr. Surfacer.
interesting vid Will. I have the same issue with perfect plastic putty and have resorted to adding a few drops of water to the bottle each time before I reseal it. I find that putting a little on a pallet and adding water to make almost a wash, then running it around surface detail on armour ,works really well. I then us a stiff brush once dry to remove the excess. btw. have you tried the white liquid filler tamiya do in a glass bottle. it has its uses as it is so thin and runs along seams nicely
Hey WIll, I couldn't agree with you more regarding Perfect Plastic Putty. I heard about this stuff on RUclips and thought I would give it a try. One of the local hobby stores where I Iive had some of it and so I bought some. When I got home and opened the tube, it was dry to the bone. So, I am not a big fan of it.
Some really useful info there, great vid, thanks :)
Excellent video Will
Once again, you are the man
What if the Perfect Plastic Puttyj were to be removed to like a small jar that would be more air tight?
Hummm... Sherwin Williams painter's caulk is exactly like what you described Vallejo Plastic Putty, it is latex caulk, and while wet, before dry it reacts with water, but after dry it will not, and is sandable to a point, but like that of fine grade. Perhaps you can use painter's chalk wet, the same way you might use Vallejo Plastic putty? (Putting it on, then swiping it down into the seam or gap immediately using a wet rag or q-tip, then letting it dry as is, no sanding required.) Downside: it does shrink a bit.
Congrats on 100 :D Thanks for the informative video. KUTGW
What are your thoughts on testors brand putty. Comes in gray tube…
Hi Will, good tutorial I found it very interesting :)
Ever tried UV glue as filler?? i use it, its awesome.
What kind of putty would you use around a plane canopy?
What’s your opinion on testors contour putty? that’s the stuff I use..It can also be thin down with testors enamel thinner 👍
Beginning at 27:24, you compare the situations you like to use Mr. Surfacer to the situations you might use a water-based filler. Is the only difference that you would use the PPP on a painted surface and the Mr. Surfacer on raw plastic?
that's the first consideration but honestly i avoid ppp because it's relatively coarse, soft, and brittle.
Thanks for doing this! It was very informative
Thank you for the video, it’s very helpful. Is the bondo you’re using the 801 or 907 formulation?
907
Cheers brother.
Yosarian Is Alive and well ;)