That's how I fixed my stick drift. And it was much simpler than I anticipated, I just decided to try it on a whim before I committed to spending money, so glad I did.
@ that's also how I fixed a stuck lmb and a jumpy scrollwheel on my Logitech g305 mouse. I just opened it, brushed the debris off the scrollwheel, reassembled and it still works perfectly 2 years later (mouse itself is like 5yo)
Exactly. I just got a ps5 from a friend for free because it had 3 beep of death. Took it apart and it was only the ribbon cable that provides light to the front of the console when you turn it on.. removed the ribbon cable and the ps5 works again.. just can't tell if it's on or off as there's no lights now
At this point, I'm just buying the very good and less expensive controllers that already come with hall effect sticks like the ones from 8Bitdo and Gamesir.
Most of the controllers in our house I bought cheaply because of stick drift issues, people almost give them away. I replaced the sticks with either new ALPS or TMR sticks, gave the shell pieces a thorough cleaning and they're good as new.
Why replace them with new ALPS when those replacements also will eventually get stick drift. The fact that these "premium" priced Xbox controllers (premium compared to 3rd party controllers) don't come with hall effect sticks is criminal.
I bought a PS4 dualshock controller from Value Village (Savers) for about $12.99 CAD several years ago. The controller wouldn't turn on and after looking into the issue, I replaced the micro usb charging port and the controller started to work. To this day it's still my proudest achievement. Now if only I could fix the stick drift on all my Xbox One/Series Controllers.
The red one needs the stick replaced. Can't fix that without soldering. The white lever that pushes the L3 button has a grey plastic bit to keep it in place and here it is missing. Without it the whole mechanism can pop out of place again.
That is more work than necessary. if the stick centers properly and there is no excessive wear on the carbon tracks, then just steal the gray plastic piece from another bad module or find the one that broke off. I repair a ton of controllers for a local game shop and I see this issue a lot. The piece was probably still bouncing around inside that controller. More often than not, I can just glue it back onto the side of the module. The retention clip just breaks off. They are an important piece to ensure the stick centers properly. That white piece that presses the stick's clicky button will sit too high without it and allow the stick's return to center to "float" in a sense. Also, the issue you "fixed" will occur again.
@@fusionsct3999 That's a half-assed job at best. I'd never do that to a customer. Wouldn't even call it a repair... The grey plastic usually breaks when you remove it, and then you have to glue it on the old stick. Replacing the stick is a quick job anyway, no reason to be so lazy.
@@nikolayivanov7705 You aren't looking at the repair objectively. That plastic piece is universal among like modules. I have coffee cans full of old modules I have desoldered, so I am no stranger to doing so. You can easily unclip that piece from any other of the same type and clip it back on. Restoring it to factory without the need to replace. It's just a retention clip. If you don't have a spare and the gray piece isn't snapped in half, then you can absolutely use a strong glue like an epoxy to adhere it. What's funny about your response is you don't understand that actually gives you a BETTER than factory piece as it's basically never coming off again. Test it yourself. The force required to remove that clip is exponentially higher than it's tiny retention clips. A long as you seat it all the way down and don't get any glue on the white potentiometer arm, it's 100% good to go. Keep in mind, my having to glue one is rare due to having so many worn modules to pull from. Usually done if it's a hard to find module in a unique controller (Non-Xbox One/PS4/PS2 etc.). My results speak for themselves. Not one controller has ever come back for loss of that clip due to glue, and your odds of a controller breaking again with a replaced clip are the EXACT same if you replace the entire module. They use the SAME clip. as mentioned earlier, I inspect the potentiometer tracks by unclipping them and check to see if they have wear. Sometimes these controllers break with hardly any use. If they do have wear, yep they get desoldered and replaced. If not, the clip gets replaced. Replacing the entire module takes far longer as once the module is replaced, then you need resistors or a drift kit to pull the stick back to true center. It's not even close regarding repair time. What's worse about that is you lose circularity AND you created more e-waste by not using a perfectly good factory module. You can take my advice, or not. Up to you, but the feedback I get from the game shop and customers tells me I am doing something right. I save time to keep repair costs low, I reuse as much as I can to reduce e-waste and my repairs stand the test of time. The best part is the shop is so confident in my repairs, they offer a year warranty on everything.
@fusionsct3999 Yeah, if that piece broke there is usually a reason, better to replace it. But nevermind, you still install the garbage carbon track analogs? Cmon man use hall effect, they're super cheap now. Centering them is very easy, the only tool needed is a pair of tweezers. I buy them in 100pcs lots, they come out at 1$ per stick.
I've bought kits and took apart many but to no avail. I think because I use my controllers for an unusual amount of time at a days time is what lends to the breaking points of these controllers. Xbox controllers are not made to last , no matter how "good" you think you take care of them. They may not break for you if you play xbox for a cup of coffee but in time they will give. They are manufactured that way. To what exactly are doing to the controllers that are fixing them?
I had this problem recently, its the rubber on the backplate where the trigger touches when pushed all the way, i had to remove that rubber from both sides and they dont stick anymore, only downside is that the triggers wont be as silent when rapidly pressing them. Hope this helps
I got a xbox series controller from a pawn shop for $10. It had a stuck right triger. I popped it open and put it back in place and haven't a problem with it yet.
@FixnFlip3 oh thx cuz a buddy is letting me use it & the left joystick won't click in right upper button don't work oftenly & left bottom trigger it driving me insane
Give up on the Xbox Series X and Xbox One controllers. They don't use hall effect joysticks, so even if you get these broken ones working, they will go bad again. Instead, go with 8BitDo or GameSir controllers which do use hall effect joysticks, and they are much cheaper NEW than the official Xbox controllers even at USED prices. Plus, 8BitDo and Gamesir have official licenses with Xbox. After my third Series X controller going bad with stick drift from normal use, I had enough with trying to fix them. Switched to the other brands, and I don't even think about the Xbox controllers anymore. The stick drift isn't even that bad on 2 of my official controllers, but I can't use them for competitive games, so they are just collecting dust now.
Bro why do you have the exact same color controllers as me and I’m watching this just in case it does happen hopefully not for my Xbox Series X Controllers but yeah the Blue and Red One with my black one I have of course that came with the Series X
People give up on "broken" devices too quickly, sometimes it's as easy as opening it up and reassembling it back
That's how I fixed my stick drift. And it was much simpler than I anticipated, I just decided to try it on a whim before I committed to spending money, so glad I did.
@ that's also how I fixed a stuck lmb and a jumpy scrollwheel on my Logitech g305 mouse. I just opened it, brushed the debris off the scrollwheel, reassembled and it still works perfectly 2 years later (mouse itself is like 5yo)
Buy, consume, throw away. Buy, consume, throw away. Buy............
Most people give up on it because they can't be bothered soldering
Exactly. I just got a ps5 from a friend for free because it had 3 beep of death. Took it apart and it was only the ribbon cable that provides light to the front of the console when you turn it on.. removed the ribbon cable and the ps5 works again.. just can't tell if it's on or off as there's no lights now
This is the video that RUclips or big controller review youtuber don't want to show you. Thank you, I appreciate you!
you are welcome
If it's broken, desolder it and solder in some Hall Effect Gullkit sticks.
I did that with one of my controllers, that is my main one now
At this point, I'm just buying the very good and less expensive controllers that already come with hall effect sticks like the ones from 8Bitdo and Gamesir.
Most of the controllers in our house I bought cheaply because of stick drift issues, people almost give them away.
I replaced the sticks with either new ALPS or TMR sticks, gave the shell pieces a thorough cleaning and they're good as new.
that's the way to do it, buying them new is tough
Why replace them with new ALPS when those replacements also will eventually get stick drift. The fact that these "premium" priced Xbox controllers (premium compared to 3rd party controllers) don't come with hall effect sticks is criminal.
I bought a PS4 dualshock controller from Value Village (Savers) for about $12.99 CAD several years ago. The controller wouldn't turn on and after looking into the issue, I replaced the micro usb charging port and the controller started to work. To this day it's still my proudest achievement. Now if only I could fix the stick drift on all my Xbox One/Series Controllers.
that's awesome, stick drift is an easy fix most of the time. a good clean can do the trick
Thanks, was looking everywhere for this and finally found it, helped a lot👍
The red one needs the stick replaced. Can't fix that without soldering. The white lever that pushes the L3 button has a grey plastic bit to keep it in place and here it is missing. Without it the whole mechanism can pop out of place again.
thanks for the heads up
That is more work than necessary. if the stick centers properly and there is no excessive wear on the carbon tracks, then just steal the gray plastic piece from another bad module or find the one that broke off. I repair a ton of controllers for a local game shop and I see this issue a lot. The piece was probably still bouncing around inside that controller. More often than not, I can just glue it back onto the side of the module. The retention clip just breaks off. They are an important piece to ensure the stick centers properly. That white piece that presses the stick's clicky button will sit too high without it and allow the stick's return to center to "float" in a sense. Also, the issue you "fixed" will occur again.
@@fusionsct3999 That's a half-assed job at best. I'd never do that to a customer. Wouldn't even call it a repair... The grey plastic usually breaks when you remove it, and then you have to glue it on the old stick. Replacing the stick is a quick job anyway, no reason to be so lazy.
@@nikolayivanov7705 You aren't looking at the repair objectively. That plastic piece is universal among like modules. I have coffee cans full of old modules I have desoldered, so I am no stranger to doing so. You can easily unclip that piece from any other of the same type and clip it back on. Restoring it to factory without the need to replace. It's just a retention clip. If you don't have a spare and the gray piece isn't snapped in half, then you can absolutely use a strong glue like an epoxy to adhere it. What's funny about your response is you don't understand that actually gives you a BETTER than factory piece as it's basically never coming off again. Test it yourself. The force required to remove that clip is exponentially higher than it's tiny retention clips. A long as you seat it all the way down and don't get any glue on the white potentiometer arm, it's 100% good to go. Keep in mind, my having to glue one is rare due to having so many worn modules to pull from. Usually done if it's a hard to find module in a unique controller (Non-Xbox One/PS4/PS2 etc.). My results speak for themselves. Not one controller has ever come back for loss of that clip due to glue, and your odds of a controller breaking again with a replaced clip are the EXACT same if you replace the entire module. They use the SAME clip. as mentioned earlier, I inspect the potentiometer tracks by unclipping them and check to see if they have wear. Sometimes these controllers break with hardly any use. If they do have wear, yep they get desoldered and replaced. If not, the clip gets replaced. Replacing the entire module takes far longer as once the module is replaced, then you need resistors or a drift kit to pull the stick back to true center. It's not even close regarding repair time. What's worse about that is you lose circularity AND you created more e-waste by not using a perfectly good factory module. You can take my advice, or not. Up to you, but the feedback I get from the game shop and customers tells me I am doing something right. I save time to keep repair costs low, I reuse as much as I can to reduce e-waste and my repairs stand the test of time. The best part is the shop is so confident in my repairs, they offer a year warranty on everything.
@fusionsct3999 Yeah, if that piece broke there is usually a reason, better to replace it. But nevermind, you still install the garbage carbon track analogs? Cmon man use hall effect, they're super cheap now. Centering them is very easy, the only tool needed is a pair of tweezers. I buy them in 100pcs lots, they come out at 1$ per stick.
1:30 "dropped" the controller against the wall accidentally. Yeah, it was a big whoopsie doopsie!
Lol my thoughts exactly
The red controller was definitely thrown at a wall 😭😭 lol 😂
bad fortnite match maybe
I'll look out for these. I'm pretty good at fixing pads so this might help me. 👍
Depress the triggers when you take off the side plastics they will pop off super easy.
I've bought kits and took apart many but to no avail. I think because I use my controllers for an unusual amount of time at a days time is what lends to the breaking points of these controllers. Xbox controllers are not made to last , no matter how "good" you think you take care of them. They may not break for you if you play xbox for a cup of coffee but in time they will give. They are manufactured that way. To what exactly are doing to the controllers that are fixing them?
That Celeste OST was 🤌🏻🍒
❤
I'm curious, you ever had a sticky trigger issue? Like, the trigger buttons dont feel as good as they were anymore?
I had this problem recently, its the rubber on the backplate where the trigger touches when pushed all the way, i had to remove that rubber from both sides and they dont stick anymore, only downside is that the triggers wont be as silent when rapidly pressing them.
Hope this helps
This is a neat tip, does this also happen with Xbox one controllers? I liked the d-pad on those more
not sure? probably, they are built very similar
Me looking at this exact blue controller on amazon yesterday.
RUclips suggesting this video to me today.
big brother is watching
Wow thanks for the advice I do need do controllers and I love fixing tech so I am on the look out now
I got a xbox series controller from a pawn shop for $10. It had a stuck right triger. I popped it open and put it back in place and haven't a problem with it yet.
Perfect example of just try to fix things
What size screw driver type are you using? Thanks in advance
Torx Security 8 (TR8)
how many controllers do you have now?
too many
very informative, brother
What software are you using to test the buttons?
gamepad tester, it's a free website
Always try to fix your own shit! Saves so much money
Could you do a vid on the 250$ controller that has changeable magnetic joy sticks?
i have already, it's the elite controller video
@FixnFlip3 oh thx cuz a buddy is letting me use it & the left joystick won't click in right upper button don't work oftenly & left bottom trigger it driving me insane
Thanks for making this Video. I really appreciate you 🙏🏽
no problem
I got a carbon black controller for 30 bucks. drifting stick. Found someone to fix it at a fraction of what i paid for.
Design flaw ?
Give up on the Xbox Series X and Xbox One controllers. They don't use hall effect joysticks, so even if you get these broken ones working, they will go bad again. Instead, go with 8BitDo or GameSir controllers which do use hall effect joysticks, and they are much cheaper NEW than the official Xbox controllers even at USED prices. Plus, 8BitDo and Gamesir have official licenses with Xbox. After my third Series X controller going bad with stick drift from normal use, I had enough with trying to fix them. Switched to the other brands, and I don't even think about the Xbox controllers anymore.
The stick drift isn't even that bad on 2 of my official controllers, but I can't use them for competitive games, so they are just collecting dust now.
I have no idea how people do that either. My kids have done it, and Ive fixed it just the same way
Top 10 videos Big controller doesent want you to see
My favorite color.
Bro why do you have the exact same color controllers as me and I’m watching this just in case it does happen hopefully not for my Xbox Series X Controllers but yeah the Blue and Red One with my black one I have of course that came with the Series X
i like the colors blue and red
Its an extremely cheap fix also fuck paying microsoft gamestop and the others 50 plus for a new controller
$39.99 at major retailers now!
$39.99 Amazon Walmart currently
10/10 I do that and when i turn it back on no buttons work 🎉
rip
I jus got the Xbox elite series 2 core the red one I bought it 2 days ago lmao it got stick drift
rip
lol just buy a G7!
Every time I open a controller I make it worse than before.
I've got a graveyard of stuff, you break stuff and fix stuff that's the way it goes
@@FixnFlip3 True words right there. 👍
Clicky clack last generation garbage