Great guide, but please remember that if you are cutting or sanding resin you must wear a facemask or respirator to avoid breathing in any dust (or keep the part wet and wet-sand). Resin dust is nasty stuff and a bit like volcanic dust - it forms horrible sharp grains like tiny spicules when you sand it - and these are very harmful to your lungs and can't be broken down in your body. Especially important if you are building a large kit or a vehicle where there will be tons of dust. Always be safe ^_^
@@JacobVoOperayes although I find the Forgeworld sculpts really endearing plastic is a superior medium. You can get a lot more detail and there’s much less hassle before you get to paining
All dust is bad to breathe in including the normal plastic dust. But, do you have a source on this? I'm pretty sure once resin dries it's not any more dangerous than sawdust. Bad to inhale large quantities of but it's not going to kill you instantly. Most at risk without the proper equipment are commission builders/painters etc. If you research this there's plenty of examples of people claiming this with zero sources or evidence. Kind of just a self perpetuating myth it seems. I'm obviously open to any actual sources you have proving this is more dangerous than any other dust type and not trying to call you out but if it is indeed false then we need to stop spreading the myth and having people freak out if they sanded one resin model and forgot to wear their mask. I am obviously for wearing a m95 or respirator when needed as I do myself any time I'm sanding anything but just want some clarity on the claims surrounding resin dust.
A few weeks ago, I was building my first resin kit, an Imperial Fists Praetor from FW, and I accidentally snapped a small piece of the cape off! Fortunately, I glued it back on, sanded down the seam a little bit, and now after painting him it's almost perfect, you can't really see it unless you're looking for it. But that was a pleasant experience. Great video as always!
I appreciate how you don't skip over the basics/obvious bits because I know when I first started out I had questions but nobody answered then in the videos because to them it was common knowledge and I guess they don't realise that a new person to the hobby wouldn't realise
Glad you showed how to bend the spear straight using hot water. I have several unmade kits with pieces as brittle as raw macaroni and was dreading trying to straighten them.
I love the last part: Everything can be bent back into its proper shape, even the hull of a Thunderhawk. Not that any huge FW kit would ever be awful to work with 😉😅
Great guide as always! I have this weird sense of great satisfaction when I've cleaned and "fixed" a resin kit that had problems, e.g. Finecast. Of course plastics are easier, but for some reason it feels so good to have overcome the troubles you encountered with the resin kit.
I also find holding Forge world models up to the light gives you a great indication of the flash or some parts that need removing. It’s not always obvious on some models.
Thats the worst part of resin. You cant be sure whats actually part of the model and whats flash. Took my like 2 hours to assemble Horus the other day because I wasnt sure what to cut/scrape.
Today i got my First Primarch, the Warmaster himself i’m already intimidated on painting and still even more on assembling him, i’ll be looking over this tutorial constantly as i build him and the painting video as well!
Hi Duncan. Brilliant video. Thanks for clarification on the adhesive to use and all the hints and tips for resin minis. I always look forward to your tutorials. BTW, in case you missed my reply, thank you for your autograph and message from Griffcon 2022 on Saturday just gone. Made my day. Thanks again and keep the great work coming. Kindest regards Ian
I'd love a video with "home printed" resin models. The little experience I have with those is that there's certain things that need to be taken into account because of the glass-like nature of the resin. However, I'm not sure if that's because of the resin itself.
Bought a finecast work weirdboy a few months back and was surprised to see it finecast. I worked in plastic for my whole hobby career. Was extremely nervous and worried to work with it giving all the horrors I have heard about it. But now after this video I am excited and more confident about it. Thank you Duncan!
Always good to do something like this as there are new people to hobby every day. I had no idea you had to (or at least, it's advisable to) clean resin models with soapy water until I saw somebody else do it on another channel. It's advise like that that's so easy to miss or not know. Which of course would have a big impact later on when you got around to painting.
Great tutorial 👍 I’m currently building up a small detachment of Kroot and I wanted to add some more Kroot Hounds and a Krootox Rider to the detachment, unfortunately the only models I could get were resin and for the longest time I’ve shied away from resin miniatures because my understanding was that they were difficult to work with. So now that I’ve watched your tutorial I think that I can successfully build these miniatures without having too much trouble.
Great video as some one who started getting back into blood bowl and necromunda and their higher end/characters are all forge world resin thanks as always :).
Really good guide Duncan, although as a rule I'd advise people to wash the model once all the shaving is done. That way you remove any filings that might stay attached to the model when you base coat it and will result in a slightly nicer paint job.
Regarding getting the last little bits on the bottoms of the feet: One thing I have done in the past to use a sanding block or piece of sand paper on a firm, flat surface. That way, you remove a controlled amount of the miniature (works on all kinds of minis, not just resin), and you are left with a bottom surface you know to be flat, which can help with basing.
Ain't resin dust really bad for your lungs? You should wear a facemask (FFP2 or a halfmask with filters) - or if you don't have one, keep the resin parts wet/submerged, this will limit the amount of airborne dust.
@@fin4314 Yeah, You want to do it outside. Cutting, is not the issue, it's when you start your grinder or sanding of the model that the issues come up with the dust. Small files, shouldn't be a big deal, but if you are running the Dremel, or any of those sanders, That fine dust you breath in. "If your smelling it, You're Breathing it" was what was told to me.
forgive my shit english the risks have been exaggerated over the years thanks to the resin industry becoming acutely aware of worker health being at risk. the phone game has been played to the point where some people think being exposed once or twice is enough to increase your risk of late life lung cancer significantly. our lungs are actually very good at expelling fragments of muck that gets into them, the average person can mess about on a dusty field an entire day and just expell it with 1-10 coughs. however, with resin, your body has a much harder time. it's far from impossible for the lungs to deal with it, but it's riskier and there's a much higher chance of harming you than typical sediments. the main complicating factor is simply time: it takes longer for your lungs to get a sharp, brittle, rough and frictional piece of particulate out. however, the health risks that are actually concerning only truly appear with chronic exposure over a very long time and when you work with resins in a rawer form (say, an entire career working with resin production hands-on). when the resin has cured, it is now chemically inert. it is still a nasty particulate for the body, but not an effective poison. for most hobbyists, that means wearing some kind of mask or face coverage simply because it's better to be safe than sorry. we can recognize that it's not asbestos though and won't affect you if you're only sanding once a month with a fan in the room, even if your face was right up to it! i've known fellows who use their gas masks from the army with extremely expensive filters bought for their own money. immersive, maybe, but inconvenient. but, i don't want to ease everyone's fears too much. it's worth noting there's other reasons you don't want to inhale it besides lethal chronic health risks, namely that you can develop an inconvenient allergy, get a bad cough for a little while, the smell can get "stuck" in your nose for a while, etc. there's also people with health conditions like COPD that are much more severely affected, though it's unlikely you could have a respiratory illness and not know about it and what you need to avoid. still, a few people have accidentally died from it in extreme edge cases.
This reminds me of the older tutorial in which Duncan prepared the old OOP resin Spartan. I specificly remember him showing off the key on the tracks... After building my own: Whoever designed that was evil.
A little tip: I was never a fan of preparing a hot water bucket to fix the casts. I went the blunt way and use a hairdryer. Works perfectly and quicker with less hustle... just be careful to not drop your precious bits into the dryer. Hehe.
Great guide but I think you need to mention the safety aspect of working with resin, respirators are needed when sanding, and over exposure to superglue fumes can be bad as well so be sure to use it in a well ventilated area.
Source? What makes it worse then normal dust? No body I ask can actually prove this. It's just something they heard. I say wear a mask any time you're sanding anything but people seem to believe only resin is dangerous based on the fact it's ingredients are toxic....when it's poured and drying. Not once it's solid. The same can be said about plastic.
I'm so happy you made this! I just ordered a Lictor and I got a bit scared after I read it was a resin model. It'll be my first time working with resin so wish me luck!
Hello and thanks for the tutorial. I worked with resin several times and noticed that scrubbing the miniatures sometimes is not enough to remove the agent. I was searching al long time until I fount a solution: break cleaner (but try it better out on the block to make sure that the cleaner will not damage the miniature). Also, especially for bigger miniatures, I use epoxy resin glue (Epoxidharzkleber - sorry for my bad english). It takes hours to dry, but it will hold forever... :-)
Great video Duncan! Even seasoned printers could lear a thing or two! One question though.You can straighten resin bits by heating them, but can yoiu bend them? Bend them out of their original shape! A chain on recent model come to mind! I want to make it bendier!
would love to see a tutorial like this for the new Siocast miniatures appearing on the market, or something like the reaper miniatures "Bones" material. That's is advertised as not having to be primed (according to some, priming may even have an adverse effect on a paint job). I'm currently playing around with these, would love to have your thoughts on them.
it is worth mentioning that some all resin figures aren't equal. Resin quality will differ between manufacturers. While some will ship resin kits that almost feel like a GW plastic kit some might use resin that is more brittle and could snap easier. It is important to cut your parts off the frame carefully until you know what type of resin you are working with, resin that is more brittle requires you to support it a bit more than resin that feels like GW plastic. At least that is my experience... ruined some parts of a kit that way before, luckily there were other bits to use but it still sucked.
If I'd have waited a few days, I could've used this for Ferrus Manus and my new Heresy army but it'll be very, very useful going forward. 😂 Still managed to get him built fine but sodding finicky.
Great and informative video 👍 but Do I have to wash my (Horus the waramaster) miniature the same way it’s done here? Or does it have a different process?
Sir Duncan, I'm still waiting for the Duncan Rhodes Ministry of Miniature Painters to start Enrolling....got my Ultramarines all boxed up & ready to jump on a train....lol...😂👍
Thank you for the video! Just got some resin miniatures recently but I'm too scared to begin assembling them due to lack of proper knowledge and experience in handling resin. One question: you can use any soap for cleaning resin or do you need specific type of soap?
Oh I remember my first resin miniature. The Wolf Lord on Thunderwolf (Harald Deathwolf). I didn’t know resin even existed, so I assumed it was plastic. I had a nightmare with the sprue, I couldn’t understand why plastic glue wasn’t working. Now I’ve bought a grand total of _one_ other resin miniature - Njal Stormcaller. Truth to be told, I’m still a little scared of them.
I want to recolour some chess pieces which purple hopefully soon red. Which primer is best as with acrylics I would use gesso on paper, wood or canvas. Also would a light sanding mean that I could apply my red without using a primer. I know that’s a lot but I would appreciate any suggestions.
Oh nice, I got a ton for my birthday a while back but am struggling with them. I wish gw would release an official glue, as it makes sense. Thank you, this is helpful!
Some resin parts are too fragile. It doesn't matter how you carefully brush them, they break. I just use ultrasonic cleaner with all purpose cleaner....
id love to get my hands on some of the creature caster miniatures and "statues" they are stunning to look at, sadly the shipping and currency conversion of the aussie dollariedoo isnt great. very handy video for new ppl. thanks for the tips Sir Two Thin Coats.
I love that I found Creature Caster just for the Canadian pricing. It's so rare to find cool miniatures online and have the sticker price actually be what I pay. Always USD or GBP, so I feel your pain.
@@KRdHaene yeah I wish they would have a wear house close to Australia maybe "oceanic" zone where it's cheaper on shipping and aussie dollars listed on the site.
Thanks for these tips. I usually use methylated spirit to strip my miniatures but it doesn't work on resin miniatures. How can resin figures be stripped?
I'm doing my first resin GW kit, Centigors, and I'm having trouble getting my minis to adhere to the base. I'm using the same Gorilla brand super glue I've always used, but for some reason these minis aren't having it. Any advice?
How long did you leave the model in the warm water for after scrubbing it with the toothbrush? I originally used to just scrub the model, dry it off and then start building, but several people have told me over the years I should be leaving the model to soak overnight in the water before building.
Metal also has releasent on them in my youth I was cutting a privateer press miniature got a spark off it and the piece flew off never found it had too do a rebuild out of greenstuff.
Its very similar yes, except if you've bought a new metal miniature, you just need to brush off the figure rather than washing it. Metal moulds are lubricated with talc rather than grease. If you've bought an old miniature, off eBay say, then giving it a nice warm bath like the resin figure is still a good idea, since some paint remover may have been used on it and some of those are greasy.
Also, metal is stronger than resin or plastic, so take more care when cutting. To detach large parts from occasional bits of metal "sprue" you might prefer to use a razor saw rather than a knife or clippers. It's physically easier and less chance to push the model out of shape.
Just remember if filing and sanding that Resin is nasty stuff to breathe in so do it in a well-ventilated space and wear a mask and once done clean it all up before removing the mask.
I would think twice before cutting all the sprue off under the feet. Sometimes you want that extra height to raise the figure above any filler and sand you use to decorate the base.
![Lil Uzi Vert - Chill Bae [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/D7F42F_JM3U/mqdefault.jpg)
Finally, dont have to go looking for older tutorials now.
Awesome!
I agree!
Great guide, but please remember that if you are cutting or sanding resin you must wear a facemask or respirator to avoid breathing in any dust (or keep the part wet and wet-sand). Resin dust is nasty stuff and a bit like volcanic dust - it forms horrible sharp grains like tiny spicules when you sand it - and these are very harmful to your lungs and can't be broken down in your body. Especially important if you are building a large kit or a vehicle where there will be tons of dust. Always be safe ^_^
This is great advice. We should also stop playing resin. So hard to process and hazardous
What you on about, mate? I'm doing a line of it now and I feel fine!
@@JacobVoOperayes although I find the Forgeworld sculpts really endearing plastic is a superior medium. You can get a lot more detail and there’s much less hassle before you get to paining
All dust is bad to breathe in including the normal plastic dust. But, do you have a source on this? I'm pretty sure once resin dries it's not any more dangerous than sawdust. Bad to inhale large quantities of but it's not going to kill you instantly. Most at risk without the proper equipment are commission builders/painters etc. If you research this there's plenty of examples of people claiming this with zero sources or evidence. Kind of just a self perpetuating myth it seems. I'm obviously open to any actual sources you have proving this is more dangerous than any other dust type and not trying to call you out but if it is indeed false then we need to stop spreading the myth and having people freak out if they sanded one resin model and forgot to wear their mask.
I am obviously for wearing a m95 or respirator when needed as I do myself any time I'm sanding anything but just want some clarity on the claims surrounding resin dust.
@@Funko777Yeah for the first couple months of my hobby I thought resin was the hobbies equivalent to cyanide
Congratulations on your wedding Duncan! 🥳🍺
Thank you so much Lee😀
A few weeks ago, I was building my first resin kit, an Imperial Fists Praetor from FW, and I accidentally snapped a small piece of the cape off! Fortunately, I glued it back on, sanded down the seam a little bit, and now after painting him it's almost perfect, you can't really see it unless you're looking for it. But that was a pleasant experience. Great video as always!
Our pleasure 😊
I appreciate how you don't skip over the basics/obvious bits because I know when I first started out I had questions but nobody answered then in the videos because to them it was common knowledge and I guess they don't realise that a new person to the hobby wouldn't realise
Already know how to work with it but Duncan is so lovely to listen to while painting so, here I am
...and we are glad you are here 😊
I found the gentle warnings surprisingly wholesome. I wish I'd been able to get into hobbying as a youngster.
Glad you showed how to bend the spear straight using hot water. I have several unmade kits with pieces as brittle as raw macaroni and was dreading trying to straighten them.
I love the last part: Everything can be bent back into its proper shape, even the hull of a Thunderhawk.
Not that any huge FW kit would ever be awful to work with 😉😅
I still remember your old GW tutorial on working with Resin: Glad to see it back, and in more Depth!
Great guide as always! I have this weird sense of great satisfaction when I've cleaned and "fixed" a resin kit that had problems, e.g. Finecast. Of course plastics are easier, but for some reason it feels so good to have overcome the troubles you encountered with the resin kit.
i stopped buying finecast because i didn't buy the mini to sculpt it again, lol. hellbrecht is made of little supports.
First time I have seen a comprehensive guide to resin minis. Thanks.
I also find holding Forge world models up to the light gives you a great indication of the flash or some parts that need removing. It’s not always obvious on some models.
Thats the worst part of resin. You cant be sure whats actually part of the model and whats flash. Took my like 2 hours to assemble Horus the other day because I wasnt sure what to cut/scrape.
Awesome guide. Very well timed as I was planning on getting a Dark Angels contemptor from FW. Keep it up
Glad you enjoyed!
Thank you for this! This tutorial was a great prep for building my resin primarch!
Thanks Duncan for teaching me to create epic minis
It's our pleasure and thank you for taking the time to comment.
@@DuncanRhodesDRPA no problem. Thank your for taking the time to teach
Today i got my First Primarch, the Warmaster himself i’m already intimidated on painting and still even more on assembling him, i’ll be looking over this tutorial constantly as i build him and the painting video as well!
Brilliant stuff! Always a handy video to have on hand :) Would love to see a similar one for metal minis too sometime!
We have that one already penciled in! 😀
Hi Duncan. Brilliant video. Thanks for clarification on the adhesive to use and all the hints and tips for resin minis. I always look forward to your tutorials. BTW, in case you missed my reply, thank you for your autograph and message from Griffcon 2022 on Saturday just gone. Made my day. Thanks again and keep the great work coming. Kindest regards Ian
I'd love a video with "home printed" resin models. The little experience I have with those is that there's certain things that need to be taken into account because of the glass-like nature of the resin. However, I'm not sure if that's because of the resin itself.
What a great comprehensive video. You answered all the questions I had about resin. Thank you. Also your opening graphic is awesome!👍
Did not think you had a guide for this! Recently got some resin pieces and plan on getting a few more so this is goonna be a huge help
Bought a finecast work weirdboy a few months back and was surprised to see it finecast. I worked in plastic for my whole hobby career. Was extremely nervous and worried to work with it giving all the horrors I have heard about it. But now after this video I am excited and more confident about it. Thank you Duncan!
I've had a bunch of Judge Dredd, and Rumbleslam models lying about, because I was a bit uncertain about resin models.
Great video~
That was helpful. I was about to glue my first mini together without washing it first. Thanks. Cheers.
Perfect timing as I was about to build some of my forgeworld night lords
Excellent, thank you Duncan. I can get on to my slann and kroxigors now :)
Always good to do something like this as there are new people to hobby every day. I had no idea you had to (or at least, it's advisable to) clean resin models with soapy water until I saw somebody else do it on another channel.
It's advise like that that's so easy to miss or not know. Which of course would have a big impact later on when you got around to painting.
Good idea to wash plastic kits off in the same way, especially those made from soft plastic which often ‘sweats’ off an oily residue.
Just got my MTO Huron Blackheart model for my CSM army - Thank you for the video, explaining everything!
Thanks a lot! I ordered some resin minis and I was a bit worried since I have never worked on resin before. Glad that this tutorial showed up!
You’re welcome 😊
Hell yeah, got 10 bretonnian knights on the print as we speak, great timing Duncan!
Always learn something in you videos Duncan, thank you
Great tutorial 👍
I’m currently building up a small detachment of Kroot and I wanted to add some more Kroot Hounds and a Krootox Rider to the detachment, unfortunately the only models I could get were resin and for the longest time I’ve shied away from resin miniatures because my understanding was that they were difficult to work with. So now that I’ve watched your tutorial I think that I can successfully build these miniatures without having too much trouble.
Great video as some one who started getting back into blood bowl and necromunda and their higher end/characters are all forge world resin thanks as always :).
Really good guide Duncan, although as a rule I'd advise people to wash the model once all the shaving is done. That way you remove any filings that might stay attached to the model when you base coat it and will result in a slightly nicer paint job.
This comes out the day I get a resin vehicle in the mail. best timing😂🎉
Funny this video popped up just as I bought a "greater brass scorpion". Keep up the great work Duncan.
Lookomg forwards to your paint in canada
So resin is cast like the old pewter and lead minis of my days. Good vid and smart.
I found using a small hobby saw working very well for removing resin parts from the casting blocks.
Regarding getting the last little bits on the bottoms of the feet: One thing I have done in the past to use a sanding block or piece of sand paper on a firm, flat surface. That way, you remove a controlled amount of the miniature (works on all kinds of minis, not just resin), and you are left with a bottom surface you know to be flat, which can help with basing.
Ain't resin dust really bad for your lungs?
You should wear a facemask (FFP2 or a halfmask with filters) - or if you don't have one, keep the resin parts wet/submerged, this will limit the amount of airborne dust.
All dust is bad, resin or plastic. Hobbying with a mask is the safest thig you can do when filing, sanding, or cutting small pieces of models.
Yep all dust is bad, but especially resin dust as it's carcinogenic.
@@andrewdowns9047 I have all my hobby stuff in my room where I sleep/live, should I do cutting/filing somewhere else?
@@fin4314 Yeah, You want to do it outside. Cutting, is not the issue, it's when you start your grinder or sanding of the model that the issues come up with the dust. Small files, shouldn't be a big deal, but if you are running the Dremel, or any of those sanders, That fine dust you breath in. "If your smelling it, You're Breathing it" was what was told to me.
forgive my shit english
the risks have been exaggerated over the years thanks to the resin industry becoming acutely aware of worker health being at risk. the phone game has been played to the point where some people think being exposed once or twice is enough to increase your risk of late life lung cancer significantly.
our lungs are actually very good at expelling fragments of muck that gets into them, the average person can mess about on a dusty field an entire day and just expell it with 1-10 coughs. however, with resin, your body has a much harder time. it's far from impossible for the lungs to deal with it, but it's riskier and there's a much higher chance of harming you than typical sediments. the main complicating factor is simply time: it takes longer for your lungs to get a sharp, brittle, rough and frictional piece of particulate out.
however, the health risks that are actually concerning only truly appear with chronic exposure over a very long time and when you work with resins in a rawer form (say, an entire career working with resin production hands-on). when the resin has cured, it is now chemically inert. it is still a nasty particulate for the body, but not an effective poison.
for most hobbyists, that means wearing some kind of mask or face coverage simply because it's better to be safe than sorry. we can recognize that it's not asbestos though and won't affect you if you're only sanding once a month with a fan in the room, even if your face was right up to it! i've known fellows who use their gas masks from the army with extremely expensive filters bought for their own money. immersive, maybe, but inconvenient.
but, i don't want to ease everyone's fears too much. it's worth noting there's other reasons you don't want to inhale it besides lethal chronic health risks, namely that you can develop an inconvenient allergy, get a bad cough for a little while, the smell can get "stuck" in your nose for a while, etc.
there's also people with health conditions like COPD that are much more severely affected, though it's unlikely you could have a respiratory illness and not know about it and what you need to avoid. still, a few people have accidentally died from it in extreme edge cases.
I won't lie, this helps me a ton with the resin Aeronautica Imperialis models. Roll on a Ork Mega Bommer.
This reminds me of the older tutorial in which Duncan prepared the old OOP resin Spartan.
I specificly remember him showing off the key on the tracks...
After building my own:
Whoever designed that was evil.
Also, on some resin kits, you may need a hobby saw to cut through some large sprue pieces
A little tip: I was never a fan of preparing a hot water bucket to fix the casts. I went the blunt way and use a hairdryer. Works perfectly and quicker with less hustle... just be careful to not drop your precious bits into the dryer. Hehe.
You look, speak, and kinda carry yourself like Michael Rosen and that's a compliment. Thanks for the video
I've been trying yo figure out how to put my Krieg guardsmen together, and this is really going to help a lot.
Great guide but I think you need to mention the safety aspect of working with resin, respirators are needed when sanding, and over exposure to superglue fumes can be bad as well so be sure to use it in a well ventilated area.
Source? What makes it worse then normal dust? No body I ask can actually prove this. It's just something they heard. I say wear a mask any time you're sanding anything but people seem to believe only resin is dangerous based on the fact it's ingredients are toxic....when it's poured and drying. Not once it's solid. The same can be said about plastic.
I'm so happy you made this! I just ordered a Lictor and I got a bit scared after I read it was a resin model. It'll be my first time working with resin so wish me luck!
Fantastic guys. Saves going looking for the other video Duncan did that I always send people to if they are not sure of working witb resin.
Duncan is the Prometheus of the modern age
Great timing on this one, I just bought my first resin miniature (Curseling from GW). Awesome guide, especially for such a detailed model :)
I wish I knew to wash my resin models before assembling and priming before. I learned it the hard way :D
This is awesome, thanks Duncan!
Hello and thanks for the tutorial.
I worked with resin several times and noticed that scrubbing the miniatures sometimes is not enough to remove the agent. I was searching al long time until I fount a solution: break cleaner (but try it better out on the block to make sure that the cleaner will not damage the miniature).
Also, especially for bigger miniatures, I use epoxy resin glue (Epoxidharzkleber - sorry for my bad english). It takes hours to dry, but it will hold forever... :-)
Great video Duncan! Even seasoned printers could lear a thing or two!
One question though.You can straighten resin bits by heating them, but can yoiu bend them?
Bend them out of their original shape! A chain on recent model come to mind! I want to make it bendier!
would love to see a tutorial like this for the new Siocast miniatures appearing on the market, or something like the reaper miniatures "Bones" material. That's is advertised as not having to be primed (according to some, priming may even have an adverse effect on a paint job). I'm currently playing around with these, would love to have your thoughts on them.
Brilliant video. Would this also apply to 3d resin printed miniatures? Mibe are extremely brittle and difficult to paint. Maybe bad luck...
Certain 3d resins are soap washable but others require specific cleaning machines
great video, a real slam Duncan
Funny timing, was thinking of getting some Iron Warrior resin kits.
Then this must be a sign, surely! 😀
it is worth mentioning that some all resin figures aren't equal. Resin quality will differ between manufacturers. While some will ship resin kits that almost feel like a GW plastic kit some might use resin that is more brittle and could snap easier. It is important to cut your parts off the frame carefully until you know what type of resin you are working with, resin that is more brittle requires you to support it a bit more than resin that feels like GW plastic.
At least that is my experience... ruined some parts of a kit that way before, luckily there were other bits to use but it still sucked.
perfecting time just got another resin miniature
If I'd have waited a few days, I could've used this for Ferrus Manus and my new Heresy army but it'll be very, very useful going forward. 😂 Still managed to get him built fine but sodding finicky.
Thanks for posting this
Forgeworld should pay you for putting this out Duncan lol
True! Although with every model FW sells you do get detailed instructions on how to use and prepare their resin
Awesome info tyvm
Im loving these thumbnails lol
Great and informative video 👍 but Do I have to wash my (Horus the waramaster) miniature the same way it’s done here? Or does it have a different process?
I needed this
Sir Duncan, I'm still waiting for the Duncan Rhodes Ministry of Miniature Painters to start Enrolling....got my Ultramarines all boxed up & ready to jump on a train....lol...😂👍
Thank you for the video! Just got some resin miniatures recently but I'm too scared to begin assembling them due to lack of proper knowledge and experience in handling resin.
One question: you can use any soap for cleaning resin or do you need specific type of soap?
Just use whatever you use for washing your dishes. Seems to work better than liquid soaps for washing hands. Just make sure the water is fairly warm.
Oh I remember my first resin miniature. The Wolf Lord on Thunderwolf (Harald Deathwolf). I didn’t know resin even existed, so I assumed it was plastic.
I had a nightmare with the sprue, I couldn’t understand why plastic glue wasn’t working.
Now I’ve bought a grand total of _one_ other resin miniature - Njal Stormcaller. Truth to be told, I’m still a little scared of them.
I want to recolour some chess pieces which purple hopefully soon red. Which primer is best as with acrylics I would use gesso on paper, wood or canvas. Also would a light sanding mean that I could apply my red without using a primer.
I know that’s a lot but I would appreciate any suggestions.
Oh nice, I got a ton for my birthday a while back but am struggling with them. I wish gw would release an official glue, as it makes sense. Thank you, this is helpful!
Firstly, happy birthday 🎁🎁🎁, secondly, we are glad it helped 😊
I like Gorilla superglue.
@Yeah No That's my superglue of choice also, here. Easy to control and does a bang up job!
Mortarion, try TAMIYA brush on glue, that might help..?
Gorilla Zkittlez is banging..
...wait a minute...that's a weed strain....LoL 😂😂😂
Some resin parts are too fragile. It doesn't matter how you carefully brush them, they break. I just use ultrasonic cleaner with all purpose cleaner....
I'm curious about the dust created from new siocast models. Haven't got my hands on any yet.
Do Pewter or White Metals next, please! :)
id love to get my hands on some of the creature caster miniatures and "statues" they are stunning to look at, sadly the shipping and currency conversion of the aussie dollariedoo isnt great. very handy video for new ppl.
thanks for the tips Sir Two Thin Coats.
Thank you for taking the time to comment and for the kind words. 😊
I love that I found Creature Caster just for the Canadian pricing. It's so rare to find cool miniatures online and have the sticker price actually be what I pay. Always USD or GBP, so I feel your pain.
@@KRdHaene yeah I wish they would have a wear house close to Australia maybe "oceanic" zone where it's cheaper on shipping and aussie dollars listed on the site.
Some resin kits actually do come on a sprue, tho usually a much smaller one. Maybe it's more common for finecast stuff?
Thanks for these tips. I usually use methylated spirit to strip my miniatures but it doesn't work on resin miniatures. How can resin figures be stripped?
Any chance we might be seeing that man of Dale painted as a tutorial? 👀
I'm doing my first resin GW kit, Centigors, and I'm having trouble getting my minis to adhere to the base. I'm using the same Gorilla brand super glue I've always used, but for some reason these minis aren't having it. Any advice?
Thank you soo much for this video. I hoped so much for a video from you about this topic. May the Emperor protect you, always :)
Wish I saw this before assembling my wraithseer rip
What would you use to fill gaps? Can you use platic putty?
How long did you leave the model in the warm water for after scrubbing it with the toothbrush? I originally used to just scrub the model, dry it off and then start building, but several people have told me over the years I should be leaving the model to soak overnight in the water before building.
Not long at all. Once washed and scrubbed, we just dried it off and continued 😊
Excellent! I'm going to go back to my original method then :) Much better than leaving every piece over night to soak
Metal also has releasent on them in my youth I was cutting a privateer press miniature got a spark off it and the piece flew off never found it had too do a rebuild out of greenstuff.
What would you recommend i use to strip paint from resin? I just got sanguinius and i dislike how the gold turned out ao i want to try again
Good vid.❤️❤️❤️❤️
Any recommendations if a miniature is scratched /chunked up on a few spots before primer?
Try use an emery board and gently sand them down
Just got my Lamertes when I got this notification
Most primers do not hold on ForgeWorld resin. What do you use?
thoughts on the new daemon angron model?
Can we apply the same principles to working with pewter models?
Its very similar yes, except if you've bought a new metal miniature, you just need to brush off the figure rather than washing it. Metal moulds are lubricated with talc rather than grease.
If you've bought an old miniature, off eBay say, then giving it a nice warm bath like the resin figure is still a good idea, since some paint remover may have been used on it and some of those are greasy.
Also, metal is stronger than resin or plastic, so take more care when cutting. To detach large parts from occasional bits of metal "sprue" you might prefer to use a razor saw rather than a knife or clippers. It's physically easier and less chance to push the model out of shape.
Yay
yay
Just remember if filing and sanding that Resin is nasty stuff to breathe in so do it in a well-ventilated space and wear a mask and once done clean it all up before removing the mask.
Evil Duncan Rhodes: be sure to Make 2 thick coat of paint
Finally. Now I know how to work resin without mutilating my army...
I would think twice before cutting all the sprue off under the feet. Sometimes you want that extra height to raise the figure above any filler and sand you use to decorate the base.
No matter what, I find everything takes 3 or 4 "baths" before its ready. idk what I'm doing wrong
What kind of soap are you using?
What kind of soap are you using? And how long are you letting it soak?
@@runamuck840 Dawn dish soap,
I let larger pieces sit for longer, but for smaller things that warp I leave them for about 10sec
@AubLambe I meant before cleaning them you have to leave them for around 5 to 10 minutes