Electronic anode absolutely solved my stinky water problem when we moved into our well water supplied house 10 years ago. Thanks for getting the word out about this fantastically simple solution.
Thanks for posting this - very concise and to the point! I installed a Corro-Protec powered anode earlier this summer (cottage well water supply). This installation went well. A couple of tricks I picked up during the process - I only drained off a few gallons of water so the tank would have some weight. My tank is only 4 years old, but the anode rod felt like it was welded in place! I used a breaker bar that only succeded in turning the tank. I ended up putting a cinch strap around the top of the tank, and wedged a piece of pipe between the cinch buckle and the wall. Worked beautifully - finally got the old anode out. The powered anode removed the sulphur smell completely by later in the evening, without having to drain the whole tank. And - the socket the company recommends (1 1/8 or 33 mm) does not exist - at least I couldn't find one. However, I did the same as you and used my adjustable wrench. The company says not to torque down the new device too much anyway.
Great video! I too have a well and when I replaced my water heater the smell of rotten sewage was disgusting. We tried the magnesium rod then aluminum with no change in the awful odor. I tried hydrogen peroxide but getting it into the water heater was a chore. I've spoken to plumbers, people in the well drilling industry, water heater manufacturing, researched for four years before running into this product, read all the reviews and couldn't believe it. Placed my order and received in two days. I used my impact wrench to remove the old anode rod and had this product installed in less than 20 minutes start to finish. It took longer to drag out and fill the air compressor than the actual installation of the new Corro-Protec rod. I needed a product that I could install by myself without the cost of an expensive plumber and this was it! If a 62 year old woman can do it, YOU can too! So far it's been one week, I 'sniff' my hot water every day....hoping the smell will not return and so far I am VERY HAPPY. Now I can have company over without the embarrassment of smelly water!!
Thank you for walking me through this process. The water in our new house smells like a rotten toot. We called the plumber but he was no help. He just said flush the line. He never told us about this option. 👍
I used a Ryobi 18 volt impact wrench to remove the anode rod. If you have metric sockets, use 27mm which is about the same as a one and 1/16". If more people knew about water heater maintenance, plumbers would have a lot more vacation time. Nice video!
I've spent about an hour on RUclips tonight watching informative videos about water heaters. In that time I'm almost certain I've learned everything there is to know about them. Just wanted to say that you got my subscription because you are straight to the point, knowledgeable and informative. You are also very easy to listen to. Clear voice and no skipping around. Keep it up.
Powered anode rod replaces the chemical reaction with an electrical reaction which makes the anode rod last basically forever and gets rid of the chemical byproducts in the tank that a standard anode rod leaves behind
I purchased my electronic anode rod 3 years ago. So it looks like it will take 3 years and 25 minutes to install the new device. Sounds like a typical home maintenance project for me
SSL Family Dad I can't thank you enough for this video. I am so glad I found your channel. Who knows how much longer we would be dealing with rotten egg smelling water. I installed the Corro Protect rod yesterday. Amazing super fast results! My wife and I took showers last night and could not believe how quickly it worked (it completely eliminated the rotten egg smell).
I installed a Corro-Protec anode and it solved my problem. I emptied the water tank first and then refilled with fresh water and then installed the Corro anode - the problem never came back. I have since been told that replacing the magnesium anode in a tank with a new aluminum one will solve the problem. The advantage with the Corro -Protec one is it does not corrode away with time and it is supposed to extend the life of the tank.
So glad I came across this! Giving me hope! The water in my well seems fine but everytime I put the hot water on I get that awful smell! Hoping this works !
Pour a couple of cups of bleach in your well, chase it with a few gallons of water from a water hose. Let it set a while and then turn faucets on in the house until you smell bleach. Let it set overnight and run water till the strong smell of bleach fades away some. Your water may be high in coliforms, May need to a sample to the county for testing.
Twice now in my life have the combination of both pipe dope and teflon tape been required to seal up a tapered thread arrangement on a water system, as neither when used alone have been sufficient to stop a small leak.
I had installed a new electric hot water heater and noticed the classic "rotten egg" smell every time I turned on the hot water. Secondly, my water faucets would sputter like there was air in the lines. No matter how long I ran the water, I could not get the faucets to stop sputtering. I installed the Corro-protec Titanium anode rod (very simple process) and instantly the rotten-egg odor was gone, no waiting period at all, and also to my surprise the faucets stopped sputtering. This anode works, and is very inexpensive as opposed to the other options of installing tanks and other water conditioning systems that companies are recommending.
I have been having the rotten egg smell for the last few years with my well water. Thanks for the information to hopefully cure this issue. Much appreciated.
@@Adam-yv5pq I think Steven shocked treated his well with muriatic acid/food grade hydrogen peroxode combo, sorry to say Steven is no longer with us........
I swapped out our water heater last year and l'm thankful to understand how to better care for it from your video. Looking forward to seeing the rest of the work you do on the house, keep it up.
43 years old and never smelled rotten eggs in my life. I dont think 95% of the people who use the expression have either. Anyway, appreciate the tip. Will give it a try.
Hi Thank you so much for this the very informative video. Your instructions and direction were very clear and took away a lot of the intimidating elements of plumbing. I have the same problem and was about to sanitize my well thinking that this was the source of the eggy smell to my water. Is that a worthwhile endeavor or should I go straight to replacing the powered anode rod? Thanks for your help.
Very helpful video. We have the rotten egg smell in our water at our farm house. It's not that big of a deal as long as you start shampooing very soon after entering the shower, but if this powered rod reduces the smell it will be welcomed. I purchased one from Amazon. This video saved me some cash not having to purchase a 1-3/8" socket. Glad you guys are having good results with it. Hoping for the same rotten egg smell reduction results with mine after I install it this coming weekend.
That is awesome to know and thanks a ton for your reply. I would love to know if you also have the rotten egg smell in your water that comes from your well (cold)? Our well water has the smell so we end up bringing drinking water from our house in the city to our farm.
I had this problem in spades when we moved into a new house. It was "episodic", and seemed to occur in the evenings after someone showered. No one could figure out the reasons, and I finally decided to do two things that ended the problem, which had persisted for two months. The smell it generated was overwhelming, and not just some faint whiff. Powerful only begins to describe how strong the smell was. First, I shock-bleached the water heater tank, using regular clorox bleach, and let that sit for overnight. I can't remember how much bleach I put in. Second, I looked up some information on shock chlorination of wells, (which we get our water from) and followed the instructions there. We have a 400+ foot well, and I shut off the inlet to the house, dumped what I think were several gallons of bleach in the well, and then used the outdoor hose outlets to recycle the water in the well "column" (by putting the hoses from the faucets back into the top of the well) to mix the bleach through the column of standing water. That only takes a couple of minutes. Then I let it sit overnight, and finally the next day drained the excessively chlorinated water by putting the hoses into the street for half an hour or so. Depending on how your house is plumbed, and with what valves, you might have to do things somewhat differently. Since then, the sulfur bacteria must have died, because it hasn't recurred in the three years since. I never did replace the anode on the water tank.
Yes, you are exactly correct. This may work in many places. I have done so. You killed the iron bacteria in the well, but after a year or two they may return. The key is the re-circulation of water in the well column, which many do not do. Also these electric anodes work [of course NO anode works too] but the tank will rust out quickly.
I have noticed certain wells will eat anode rods up quicker than others. On an artesian well the anode rod deterioted within 6 months of installing a new water heater. Smelled like rotten eggs and water was blackish. I believe it had a high magnesium or calcium content in well. The customer tried suing me because it had ruined all her clothes while doing laundry, why she didnt stop on the first load is beyond me. AO Smith(water heater manufactorer) reimbursed her for all her clothes.
For what it's worth, you can take samples of water to Culligan and they will test it for free. I did this when I moved to a new place and didn't know what was going on with the water beyond those litmus strip tests.
Culligan water tests are not comparable to certified lab testing. Their tests are designed around sales pitches and they are aiming to sell you a system that a local water treatment company can install for much less, and the local guys are generally more honest (generally).
Have a vacation home with a well. Once the well pump and WH were replaced I started having this issue. Tried an aluminum zinc / alloy rod first. It worked for about 6 months and the smell came back. I'm trying this model now. Hopefully with it being plugged in all the time it will not fail. Very informative, thank you.
34dawgsgo: I have a similar situation - lake cabin with well and new hot water heater. Did the electric anode work for you? I've also read that turning the water heater down to warm/vacation mode while away for days/weeks (to save on energy costs) can make it worse. supposedly temporarily heating to over 130 degrees (scalding hazard!) can kill off the bacteria that have accumulated in a seldom used water heater. This article has some good info: www.home-water-heater.com/rotten-egg-smell.html
Yours is the best video I have seen on this topic, thank you! One clarification on the Corro, it is 33MM which is 1 5/16 SAE if you go with a socket instead of an adjustable wrench. Once tightened on my AO Smith, the head dropped below flush so some my require a socket for both. Thanks for giving me the confidence to do this myself
after much research about ten years ago i discovered 'water rescue' electronic anodes. since have changed to corrorod? work great... have done about ten of them in my country rentals.. used impact wrench, broke several extensions using breakover. just use pex from heater.. done it for years, no problems. one problem corrorod changed sizes from smaller anode socked to larger install anode...why , don't know, but major mistake on their part.. good luck.. not a job for fainthearteed.. also you can use 220v from heater to power anode.
Very good video, well explained, and very helpful. Now I am in search of such a product that will work with my NTI Vmax propane-fired boiler (we are in Canada). Hope I can find one, checking with the company that installed the boiler. Again, thanks!
I REALLY hope you see this because we have this same issue! We installed a UV light and it still smells. We drained the water in the well and cleaned it out and it still smells. Today we drained the water heater tank and we'll see if that works but I'm truly at a loss as to what to do :( Do you have any tips/suggestions? It's an electric system and some kind of electric smart tank
it is easy to replace i just have to ask why a " Powered" one? why use something that uses power and now you have to deal with the power cord, circuit breaker it is just not needed to be powered keep it simple the more passive the better. everyone if your replacing the anode you might think about replacing your TP valve as well the tp valve can save the lives of your family. good video. you were to the point and clear on all the points needed to be made. again good video.
This is a neat trick. Just want to say those bacteria are not completely harmless. The contribute to ear infection, cornea damage to the eyes, respiratory illness. While it isn't common the severity of how much bacteria is in the heater and pipes does matter.
And isn't much you can do about it. If it's really bad you might consider having something done about it. But you can't keep a sterile environment in your water. Everything gets into everyone's water from the main water supply and when workers work on pipes out in the land it travels to your home.
Bradford white has some of the most defects from rusting tanks and defective gas controls here in Arizona many plumbing companies have dropped the Bradford white and went to Rudd or rheems same manufacture
I replaced my rod with the exact powered rod you got. Worked for some time but it it did come back with a vengeance, then I shocked the tank with chlorine. That worked for about 3 days and it came back again.
@@nico1et the other way would be to open a sediment filter earlier in the water chain, smell it, if you get nothing maybe take off the inlet to the hot water tank turn it on and smell that, if nothing, get large sample like a big clear container. See if any black residue is in there, if there is it could be a rubber gasket somewhere in the line.. If that's not it call in fixed air support, DANGER CLOSE.
I personality buy this product as soon i put on the water heater the rotten egg smell disappear thanks for making this great video thank u so much my problem its solve
Thank you for the Video. Ordered an Aluminium Rod, and a socket. You didn't have to seal the Anode Rod after you cut the Styrofoam out, and put the new rod in?
I have a shallow (12') i installed in an offgrid Florida property. I currently pump with a simple manual bilge pump. The water is clear but smells of sulfur. I'm not drinking the water, but have bathed and washed clothing with it. Its clear and does not irritated my skin or eyes in 6 months so I presume to be safe. No houses around. I only have 12v power on site. I have a custom10 gallon tank (4" sealed and pressurized PVC tube) I want to fill with a transfer pump. Because the tank will get very hot from the sun and will be pressurized to 20psi, do you think either of these might help with the sulfur smell?
I need to get the anode rod mentioned here. I wanted to add an electric water softener as well, but I believe that might negatively affect the electric anode rod. Does anyone know anything about this?
Protip, when you are applying teflon tape, the way you are doing it causes issues, since you are treating it like you are trying to wrap something with electrical tape with the sticky side in, and it makes it hard to get a good tight wrap with the T tape. However, if you flip the roll, as though you were wrapping something with electrical tape with the sticky side out, you get much better control over the tape, you don't have to constantly roll the tape that gets over-dispensed back onto the roll, and it takes far less time to do it.
Thanks for the video and advice. I notice your video is from 2017. Just wondering if you are still having success with the rod you installed at keeping the smell away. Thanks
So, here we are 4 years later. Do you have any follow-up comments or suggestions? Maybe you don't even own the same home anymore but I was wondering if this device fixed your issue long-term?
Thanks so much ... definitely gonna try this. This smells is horrible lol 😂 I can’t I feel like we are getting contaminated. Good luck with your home improvement 👍
Hi, thanks for this. After much testing (no hydrogen sulfide) and replacing the traditional anode rod the smell always came back. The smell is only in the hot water. I discovered that the only thing that keeps the smell away is to raise the temperature and that did it. My next step is to either install an anti scold valve and lower the temp to 120 degrees (to the hot water pipes with the tank remain at 145 degrees) or install a powered anode rod like you did. In either case, the hot water tank should remain clean. My concern is the hot water pipes. In either case, the environment could be that to produce the bacteria. My question is, how long has your water remained odor free. Thanks so much.
I would recommend this powered anode rod, it will solve the problem as it has for us and so many others that have purchased it. Ours has been almost 3 years without a single hint of rotten egg smell since we put this in.
I’m dealing with this problem now. Mg anode rod was replaced with Al and still smells after almost 2 weeks. Anaerobic bacteria in the water react with Sulfur in the water to produce H2S gas. I’ve seen a suggestion to up the thermostat on the tank to 160°F (mine only goes to 150°F, so I’m doing that now). Leave it there for a few hours and it’s supposed to kill the bacteria. The other trick I saw on another site was to use 3% Hydrogen Peroxide (the kind you buy at the drugstore) 1cup per 10Gal of tank, leave it for several hours and flush. This also will kill the bacteria. Peroxide breaks down to water and oxygen, so it’s safer than a bleach shock.
Cranking the heat didn’t work, but the peroxide treatment worked overnight and the smell hasn’t resurfaced since. Simple solution that costs less than $5.
I worked in the oil and gas fields in northern British Columbia. Before the very first day anyone working in that area is required to take and pass what's called an H2S course before they can even start work. It's poison gas in other words. We were required to wear H2S detectors at all times. It's a deadly gas in fairly low concentrations. One of the sure signs of H2S is that rotten egg smell. If I remember the numbers correctly it can be smelled with concentrations as low as 5 parts per million by some people. I'm baffled what the anode rod would have to do with producing H2S as no doubt your living in an area where it's coming in with your well water. At the minimum I'd have your well water properly tested for the amounts you might be dealing with. H2S is no joke.
Turning Point thank you for clarifying I have been smelling that in my house I was researching and I see it is very dangerous. I hope we can get this fixed ASAP
H2S is a byproduct of organic decomposition. You can also find it in sewage and trash, so it's not out of place in a home as you might think. If the microbes or bacteria are affected by the cathotics in your water heater magnesium is one of the strongest naturally anodic metals used. Zinc is next, aluminium is weaker yet. Jsyk.
Yes, hydrogen sulfide is dangerous if smelled in high doses and for a prolonged period of time. However, it's also out there in nature in decaying plants, animals, and sewage, usually at low oxygen conditions. It also occurs in mines, springs, sewers, swamps, volcanoes, and fossil fuels, etc. The most common cause of smelly water is anaerobic bacteria that exist in some water and react with sulfur and the magnesium and aluminum "sacrificial anodes" that come with most water heaters to produce hydrogen sulfide gas, making the classic rotten egg odor. Using 3% hydrogen peroxide that you can purchase from the drug store may help the smell, however, it will come back. Therefore, replacing the anode rod is the most economical and reasonable option.
A $14 solution if you only need a gallon per day for drinking that I developed after getting sick of hauling home gallon jugs and then having to recycle them: Use a cheap Walmart aquarium pump, 4 feet of air hose and a 6 inch long aeration stone placed in the bottom of a non-toxic tank of plastic like a 5 gallon blue plastic water jug or a 6 gallon wine making tub or even a glass aquarium. Fill it with your sulfur dioxide or hydrogen sulfide tainted water and aerate for two days or more to let all the sulfur (dissolved gas) aerate out to a level you may not even be able to detect. Here in Florida the sulfur is a dissolved gas that the locals get used to but it irritates my IBS. I can not guarantee it will work in the northeast where I have heard the sulfur can get so bad you have to open a window before taking a shower. But sometimes a very simple solution is adequate and the cheapest too. I still run my water through a Brita filter before drinking but that is an optional luxury in most cases. Note the perfect location for convenience is to place the container above sink level on a strong shelf. You use a hose to fill the tank from the sink, then siphon off the purified water using gravity as needed.
Oh bullshit. It is in acceptably safe levels in the water, drinking the water puts 100% of it in your body. We end up breathing no more than 1% of it during aeration and it is harmless especially since it comes out over a 48 hour period. Drinking it only bothers me because of my extreme IBS-D condition.
Popeye Gordon, You are exactly right. I have a misting sprayer nozzle spraying back down into my well. Took the water off a hose bibb and ran it through a fine mesh new cattle sprayer filter before it gets to the nozzle. It works good. Using a #6 misting nozzle it uses about 2 1/2 gallons per hour and the pump comes on for a few seconds about every 3-4 hours.
Happy to find your video. We just finished a brand new house with new water heater and the hot water smell is almost enough to make you vomit. The anode appears to be the fix for you but are you positive the water heater was the source or could it be from organics in your well water. Before you fixed this, did the smell affect the taste of your food or the smell of your laundry? Also, how quickly did you notice the difference...once that tank's worth of water was gone?
+Zaappp !!! The hot water in our house was so bad I could not take a hot shower without almost throwing up. Now, there is no smell with the hot water at all. It certainly fixed that issue!
That's how ours is right now. The well was actually dug about 2 months ago. 220' deep, pump set at 120', water level at 30'. We fiiiiiiinally got the keys on Jan. 12th. We were moving some stuff yesterday and I was running some hot water in the kitchen sink and almost gagged. My kids came out of their bedrooms to find out what was causing the stench. I'm going to flush the well for about 30-45 minutes and then bleach shock it. I figured about 1-1/2 gallons of Clorox based on another video and let it sit for a day and then flush it and all the pipes out again. If that doesn't work.....which I'll be surprised considering the amount of odor, I'm going to try the powered anode. I'm going to have to figure something out quick though because it's unbearable!
@@edbreyer I actually shocked the well with about 2 gallons of bleach. It didn't eliminate the smell but it was greatly reduced. The smell would come back from time to time...no explanation but over time it's less frequent and far less offending when it does. The well driller actually recommended to shock the well once a year which I'm coming up on now. I still plan to install the titanium anode but I need to install a water softener as well. Lots of minerals and iron. The sad thing is I was hoping that our new house with a well and septic would pay dividends by eliminating our ridiculous $85-$105 monthly water/sewer bill but counting the cost of the septic/well/water softener plus monthly salt, it will take 20 years to pay for itself.
@@zaappp1588 Thanks for the update. Glad to hear you got some relief from the smell with the bleach well shock. I have ordered the electric anode but think I will also try the well shock - what method did you use? iI it a s simple as pouring bleach down your well shaft? I don't know how deep my well is so I'm not sure how much bleach I should use or how long I need to let it sit. I assume I should run faucets afterwards to flush the bleach out? All suggestions welcome!
I have that rotten egg issue. Put in a green sand filtering system which reduced the smell but not completely. My local plumbers tell me to remove the anode rod. They claim the water heater does not need it and it fixes the smell. Seems like the wrong thing to do. I've heard about the power anodes but always wonder if they work. My incoming water from the well has the sticky smell so I/m no 100% convinced the smell originates in my water tank and not sure which way to go. Not sure it's a bacteria growth thing in my tank. thoughts?
In my community my hot water heater has gone through this 4x in its 13 months existence l, new , and my manager blames my new tank, I've had every material in there, do you recommend the electric rod?
wonderful video thank-you so much for your to the point explanation. As much as Id rather just buy a tankless water heater to solve the problem this is a far cheaper, easier and faster installation solution.
I recently had problems with Smelly water and disgusting water color and I changed the Anode Rod and found out it was a problem at the Water Reservoir 😡
Great video. I've seen people debate about whether teflon tape interferes with good contact between the the tank threads and the rod threads. Most seem to feel the tape is cut away enough in the process for the proper contact. Maybe it's irrelevant with an electric rod(?) I'm suffering from this problem with my 17-18 year old water heater (original to the house). Only today did I dig through the insulation to find the rod access. Ordering the socket and wrench soon. I think I may see if I can free up the old rod before I invest in a new one. My neighbor has the same problem, and an aluminum rod he can't use, because he can't get the old one out.
John, that's very good question. You're right, this is irrelevant with an electric rod. Current will flow between the rod itself and the ground installed on the tank!
U only addressed the hot side. U mentioned it was only worse on the hot side implying it's on both so the smell is coming from ur source...which is still very common. And it's exactly what my prob is. I've bleached it. Smell came back 3 days later. I'm looking to maybe use tablets in my well regularly . But I'm hoping to get some advice from anyone on this..it would be greatly appreciated
Sometimes our cold water has a faint smell to it but nothing that is really noticeable most of the time. We have never sanitized but I would recommend a whole home sediment and possible carbon filter to help with that. Also, use a water softener and you will probably need to sanitize a couple times per year. If you have any plastic CPVC or PEX tubing in your home that could be part of the issue also.
Hi XoSuPerFrEaKox, this is a great video and very informative. However, is does not cover if the smell is coming from your water source. I suffered the same problem that you have and I just fixed it, hopefully permanent. Just made an extremely detailed video about it, I hope it helps you.Thanks!
SSLFamilyDad where r u located my parents just moved into a house in FL that has well water and I would love to fix the rotten egg smell for them?? I can’t physically do this but I would like to know if I can hire someone to do it and what would I ask them to change an anode rod to titanium not magnesium
+Bl00dyBlue559 this one is titanium and requires the charge to protect the water tank properly where as the magnesium rods work onvacchemical reaction which in turn causes the sulfur smell in certain water conditions
Question: I only have the Sulphur smell in master bath twin sinks (hot and cold). No where else in the house, including that bath. Think this Anode Rod fix is what I need? Tom
We have well water and everyone says the smell comes from the well water because of the minerals in the well. Would this make any difference if the smell come from the water and not the anode?
I got a new water heater about 2 months ago and I started smelling bad, do you think is the rod? The smell only comes out on hot water but is hard to believe the rod is bad already within 2 months
Electronic anode absolutely solved my stinky water problem when we moved into our well water supplied house 10 years ago. Thanks for getting the word out about this fantastically simple solution.
Thanks for posting this - very concise and to the point! I installed a Corro-Protec powered anode earlier this summer (cottage well water supply). This installation went well. A couple of tricks I picked up during the process - I only drained off a few gallons of water so the tank would have some weight. My tank is only 4 years old, but the anode rod felt like it was welded in place! I used a breaker bar that only succeded in turning the tank. I ended up putting a cinch strap around the top of the tank, and wedged a piece of pipe between the cinch buckle and the wall. Worked beautifully - finally got the old anode out. The powered anode removed the sulphur smell completely by later in the evening, without having to drain the whole tank. And - the socket the company recommends (1 1/8 or 33 mm) does not exist - at least I couldn't find one. However, I did the same as you and used my adjustable wrench. The company says not to torque down the new device too much anyway.
Great video! I too have a well and when I replaced my water heater the smell of rotten sewage was disgusting. We tried the magnesium rod then aluminum with no change in the awful odor. I tried hydrogen peroxide but getting it into the water heater was a chore. I've spoken to plumbers, people in the well drilling industry, water heater manufacturing, researched for four years before running into this product, read all the reviews and couldn't believe it. Placed my order and received in two days. I used my impact wrench to remove the old anode rod and had this product installed in less than 20 minutes start to finish. It took longer to drag out and fill the air compressor than the actual installation of the new Corro-Protec rod. I needed a product that I could install by myself without the cost of an expensive plumber and this was it! If a 62 year old woman can do it, YOU can too! So far it's been one week, I 'sniff' my hot water every day....hoping the smell will not return and so far I am VERY HAPPY. Now I can have company over without the embarrassment of smelly water!!
UPDATE: 2 months later and still working great! What a wonderful product! Thanks for making this video.
❤️❤️❤️ you go girl👍👍👍
Nice. You did it! Great job.. P 4:13, ALL Things
Thank you for walking me through this process. The water in our new house smells like a rotten toot. We called the plumber but he was no help. He just said flush the line. He never told us about this option. 👍
I used a Ryobi 18 volt impact wrench to remove the anode rod. If you have metric sockets, use 27mm which is about the same as a one and 1/16". If more people knew about water heater maintenance, plumbers would have a lot more vacation time. Nice video!
I've spent about an hour on RUclips tonight watching informative videos about water heaters. In that time I'm almost certain I've learned everything there is to know about them. Just wanted to say that you got my subscription because you are straight to the point, knowledgeable and informative. You are also very easy to listen to. Clear voice and no skipping around. Keep it up.
+Jared Burgett Thanks! Glad you found it useful!
Powered anode rod replaces the chemical reaction with an electrical reaction which makes the anode rod last basically forever and gets rid of the chemical byproducts in the tank that a standard anode rod leaves behind
I agree good video. Some RUclipsrs take 40 minutes to do a 14 minute video
This is a simple fix to a stinky problem. So glad to find this video. Thank you.
I purchased my electronic anode rod 3 years ago. So it looks like it will take 3 years and 25 minutes to install the new device.
Sounds like a typical home maintenance project for me
SSL Family Dad I can't thank you enough for this video. I am so glad I found your channel. Who knows how much longer we would be dealing with rotten egg smelling water.
I installed the Corro Protect rod yesterday. Amazing super fast results! My wife and I took showers last night and could not believe how quickly it worked (it completely eliminated the rotten egg smell).
SInce it's been 2 years since your post, I was wondering about your long-term results with this product.
@@PilotViewProductions It still works great.
I installed a Corro-Protec anode and it solved my problem. I emptied the water tank first and then refilled with fresh water and then installed the Corro anode - the problem never came back. I have since been told that replacing the magnesium anode in a tank with a new aluminum one will solve the problem. The advantage with the Corro -Protec one is it does not corrode away with time and it is supposed to extend the life of the tank.
when you says fresh water, you mean from your main water source?
I'd bet this is why my water heater bottom rusted out. I had no idea there was maintenance to water heaters. Thanks for the vid.
So glad I came across this! Giving me hope! The water in my well seems fine but everytime I put the hot water on I get that awful smell! Hoping this works !
Pour a couple of cups of bleach in your well, chase it with a few gallons of water from a water hose. Let it set a while and then turn faucets on in the house until you smell bleach. Let it set overnight and run water till the strong smell of bleach fades away some. Your water may be high in coliforms, May need to a sample to the county for testing.
@@trailerparkcryptoking5213 I've had my water tested and it's fine. That's why I'm pretty sure it's the hot water tank. But thanks! I appreciate it.
Cool, I had no idea there was an electrical plug in anode rod that gets rid of the rotten egg smell. Will definitely hit Amazon to get one. Thanks
@robertgaudioso6718 DID IT WORK?
Twice now in my life have the combination of both pipe dope and teflon tape been required to seal up a tapered thread arrangement on a water system, as neither when used alone have been sufficient to stop a small leak.
I had installed a new electric hot water heater and noticed the classic "rotten egg" smell every time I turned on the hot water. Secondly, my water faucets would sputter like there was air in the lines. No matter how long I ran the water, I could not get the faucets to stop sputtering.
I installed the Corro-protec Titanium anode rod (very simple process) and instantly the rotten-egg odor was gone, no waiting period at all, and also to my surprise the faucets stopped sputtering. This anode works, and is very inexpensive as opposed to the other options of installing tanks and other water conditioning systems that companies are recommending.
Great info!
I have been having the rotten egg smell for the last few years with my well water. Thanks for the information to hopefully cure this issue. Much appreciated.
Steven Bisaillon did it work?
ANSWER US STEVEN!!!!!!!!!!! LOL... ;)
@@Adam-yv5pq I think Steven shocked treated his well with muriatic acid/food grade hydrogen peroxode combo, sorry to say Steven is no longer with us........
One of the most well done videos I’ve seen on RUclips. Very well explained instructions as well as explanations. Thank you
Thank you Thank you Thank you!!! First time home owner facing this problem.
My maintenance man is fixing this problem as I’m watching this video! I’m beyond excited to be able to take my shower without gagging!
@gidgetnsweetpealacarter9797 Did it Work?
So very helpful thank you for this video.. Im going through the same thing my water smells like rotten eggs... Thank you
I swapped out our water heater last year and l'm thankful to understand how to better care for it from your video. Looking forward to seeing the rest of the work you do on the house, keep it up.
I've been looking for a fix for this for months on the internet with only explanations of why this happens and no fixes thank you
43 years old and never smelled rotten eggs in my life. I dont think 95% of the people who use the expression have either. Anyway, appreciate the tip. Will give it a try.
I had this same issue. Water softener guy changed the anode rod to solve the problem.
Hi Thank you so much for this the very informative video. Your instructions and direction were very clear and took away a lot of the intimidating elements of plumbing. I have the same problem and was about to sanitize my well thinking that this was the source of the eggy smell to my water. Is that a worthwhile endeavor or should I go straight to replacing the powered anode rod? Thanks for your help.
If it is just mainly in the hit water then do the anode rod. If it is both, do both:)
Very helpful video. We have the rotten egg smell in our water at our farm house. It's not that big of a deal as long as you start shampooing very soon after entering the shower, but if this powered rod reduces the smell it will be welcomed. I purchased one from Amazon.
This video saved me some cash not having to purchase a 1-3/8" socket. Glad you guys are having good results with it. Hoping for the same rotten egg smell reduction results with mine after I install it this coming weekend.
It has worked perfectly for us for two years now, man was that smell awful for us in the shower!
That is awesome to know and thanks a ton for your reply. I would love to know if you also have the rotten egg smell in your water that comes from your well (cold)? Our well water has the smell so we end up bringing drinking water from our house in the city to our farm.
I had this problem in spades when we moved into a new house. It was "episodic", and seemed to occur in the evenings after someone showered. No one could figure out the reasons, and I finally decided to do two things that ended the problem, which had persisted for two months. The smell it generated was overwhelming, and not just some faint whiff. Powerful only begins to describe how strong the smell was.
First, I shock-bleached the water heater tank, using regular clorox bleach, and let that sit for overnight. I can't remember how much bleach I put in.
Second, I looked up some information on shock chlorination of wells, (which we get our water from) and followed the instructions there. We have a 400+ foot well, and I shut off the inlet to the house, dumped what I think were several gallons of bleach in the well, and then used the outdoor hose outlets to recycle the water in the well "column" (by putting the hoses from the faucets back into the top of the well) to mix the bleach through the column of standing water. That only takes a couple of minutes. Then I let it sit overnight, and finally the next day drained the excessively chlorinated water by putting the hoses into the street for half an hour or so. Depending on how your house is plumbed, and with what valves, you might have to do things somewhat differently.
Since then, the sulfur bacteria must have died, because it hasn't recurred in the three years since. I never did replace the anode on the water tank.
Yes, you are exactly correct. This may work in many places. I have done so. You killed the iron bacteria in the well, but after a year or two they may return. The key is the re-circulation of water in the well column, which many do not do. Also these electric anodes work [of course NO anode works too] but the tank will rust out quickly.
I have noticed certain wells will eat anode rods up quicker than others. On an artesian well the anode rod deterioted within 6 months of installing a new water heater. Smelled like rotten eggs and water was blackish. I believe it had a high magnesium or calcium content in well. The customer tried suing me because it had ruined all her clothes while doing laundry, why she didnt stop on the first load is beyond me. AO Smith(water heater manufactorer) reimbursed her for all her clothes.
For what it's worth, you can take samples of water to Culligan and they will test it for free. I did this when I moved to a new place and didn't know what was going on with the water beyond those litmus strip tests.
Culligan water tests are not comparable to certified lab testing. Their tests are designed around sales pitches and they are aiming to sell you a system that a local water treatment company can install for much less, and the local guys are generally more honest (generally).
Have a vacation home with a well. Once the well pump and WH were replaced I started having this issue. Tried an aluminum zinc / alloy rod first. It worked for about 6 months and the smell came back. I'm trying this model now. Hopefully with it being plugged in all the time it will not fail. Very informative, thank you.
34dawgsgo: I have a similar situation - lake cabin with well and new hot water heater. Did the electric anode work for you? I've also read that turning the water heater down to warm/vacation mode while away for days/weeks (to save on energy costs) can make it worse. supposedly temporarily heating to over 130 degrees (scalding hazard!) can kill off the bacteria that have accumulated in a seldom used water heater. This article has some good info: www.home-water-heater.com/rotten-egg-smell.html
Very interesting. My water just started to do this.
Hello. And thank you! Does it matter the length of the rod? It seems the new one is much shorter in length. Would that make much of a difference?
the length doesn't matter. The old one needed to be longer to have more surface area because it was meant to dissolve. The powered one does not
@@SSLFamilyDad I appreciate your response. I have ordered the corro protect and hoping it helps with my well water :). Happy holidays!
Yours is the best video I have seen on this topic, thank you! One clarification on the Corro, it is 33MM which is 1 5/16 SAE if you go with a socket instead of an adjustable wrench. Once tightened on my AO Smith, the head dropped below flush so some my require a socket for both. Thanks for giving me the confidence to do this myself
Very well done! Does the same concept work for tankless water heater?
after much research about ten years ago i discovered 'water rescue' electronic anodes. since have changed to corrorod? work great... have done about ten of them in my country rentals.. used impact wrench, broke several extensions using breakover. just use pex from heater.. done it for years, no problems. one problem corrorod changed sizes from smaller anode socked to larger install anode...why , don't know, but major mistake on their part.. good luck.. not a job for fainthearteed.. also you can use 220v from heater to power anode.
Very good video, well explained, and very helpful. Now I am in search of such a product that will work with my NTI Vmax propane-fired boiler (we are in Canada). Hope I can find one, checking with the company that installed the boiler. Again, thanks!
Awesome video. Thanks so much for the thorough installation and explanation.
That's great information, just learned something new today. Thanks for sharing this! 👍👍🙇
I REALLY hope you see this because we have this same issue! We installed a UV light and it still smells. We drained the water in the well and cleaned it out and it still smells. Today we drained the water heater tank and we'll see if that works but I'm truly at a loss as to what to do :( Do you have any tips/suggestions? It's an electric system and some kind of electric smart tank
it is easy to replace i just have to ask why a " Powered" one? why use something that uses power and now you have to deal with the power cord, circuit breaker it is just not needed to be powered keep it simple the more passive the better. everyone if your replacing the anode you might think about replacing your TP valve as well the tp valve can save the lives of your family. good video. you were to the point and clear on all the points needed to be made. again good video.
This is a neat trick. Just want to say those bacteria are not completely harmless. The contribute to ear infection, cornea damage to the eyes, respiratory illness. While it isn't common the severity of how much bacteria is in the heater and pipes does matter.
And isn't much you can do about it. If it's really bad you might consider having something done about it. But you can't keep a sterile environment in your water. Everything gets into everyone's water from the main water supply and when workers work on pipes out in the land it travels to your home.
When you have to replace your water heater get a Bradford White, American made in west Michigan!
A. O. Smith is very good too. My last one lasted 18 years with no special attention.
Just replaced one after 23 years
Bradford white has some of the most defects from rusting tanks and defective gas controls here in Arizona many plumbing companies have dropped the Bradford white and went to Rudd or rheems same manufacture
Good info. Thanks
Thank you for the video on this ! First time I heard of electric anode rods
I replaced my rod with the exact powered rod you got. Worked for some time but it it did come back with a vengeance, then I shocked the tank with chlorine. That worked for about 3 days and it came back again.
i have a new water heater & new sink - had the same problem with the old sink & water heater - so i feel there is no answer for me either.
@@nico1et the other way would be to open a sediment filter earlier in the water chain, smell it, if you get nothing maybe take off the inlet to the hot water tank turn it on and smell that, if nothing, get large sample like a big clear container. See if any black residue is in there, if there is it could be a rubber gasket somewhere in the line.. If that's not it call in fixed air support, DANGER CLOSE.
I personality buy this product as soon i put on the water heater the rotten egg smell disappear thanks for making this great video thank u so much my problem its solve
You are a great teacher! Thank you!
This was January 2017 have you had any recurrence of the smell?
Thank you for the Video. Ordered an Aluminium Rod, and a socket. You didn't have to seal the Anode Rod after you cut the Styrofoam out, and put the new rod in?
Thank you so much! You solved are gross water issue
I have a shallow (12') i installed in an offgrid Florida property. I currently pump with a simple manual bilge pump. The water is clear but smells of sulfur. I'm not drinking the water, but have bathed and washed clothing with it. Its clear and does not irritated my skin or eyes in 6 months so I presume to be safe.
No houses around. I only have 12v power on site. I have a custom10 gallon tank (4" sealed and pressurized PVC tube) I want to fill with a transfer pump. Because the tank will get very hot from the sun and will be pressurized to 20psi, do you think either of these might help with the sulfur smell?
Great video and great information. Thank you! 💯❤
I bought a $27 zinc anode rod on Amazon, and it solved the rotten egg smell.
Great Video and well produced. How did you determine that the water heater was the problem and not the cold water itself?
The smell was only in the hot water
@@SSLFamilyDad Thanks!
I need to get the anode rod mentioned here. I wanted to add an electric water softener as well, but I believe that might negatively affect the electric anode rod. Does anyone know anything about this?
Thanks for the info, and GO BLUE!!!
Protip, when you are applying teflon tape, the way you are doing it causes issues, since you are treating it like you are trying to wrap something with electrical tape with the sticky side in, and it makes it hard to get a good tight wrap with the T tape. However, if you flip the roll, as though you were wrapping something with electrical tape with the sticky side out, you get much better control over the tape, you don't have to constantly roll the tape that gets over-dispensed back onto the roll, and it takes far less time to do it.
Thanks for the video and advice. I notice your video is from 2017. Just wondering if you are still having success with the rod you installed at keeping the smell away. Thanks
Yes, and used one at our new house and solves the issue here also
So, here we are 4 years later. Do you have any follow-up comments or suggestions? Maybe you don't even own the same home anymore but I was wondering if this device fixed your issue long-term?
It has fixed it long term, we just moved and had the same issue at our new house and I did the same thing here and fixed the issue
Thanks so much ... definitely gonna try this. This smells is horrible lol 😂 I can’t I feel like we are getting contaminated. Good luck with your home improvement 👍
We had a 44 year old gas water heater. Never used a anode rod .
I’d use a plug.
Thank you man. This was very helpful.
have a similar problem with hot water mainly. Looking for a update before I purchase the rod.
Hi, thanks for this. After much testing (no hydrogen sulfide) and replacing the traditional anode rod the smell always came back. The smell is only in the hot water. I discovered that the only thing that keeps the smell away is to raise the temperature and that did it. My next step is to either install an anti scold valve and lower the temp to 120 degrees (to the hot water pipes with the tank remain at 145 degrees) or install a powered anode rod like you did. In either case, the hot water tank should remain clean. My concern is the hot water pipes. In either case, the environment could be that to produce the bacteria. My question is, how long has your water remained odor free. Thanks so much.
I would recommend this powered anode rod, it will solve the problem as it has for us and so many others that have purchased it. Ours has been almost 3 years without a single hint of rotten egg smell since we put this in.
SSLFamilyDad
Great..thanks.
I’m dealing with this problem now. Mg anode rod was replaced with Al and still smells after almost 2 weeks. Anaerobic bacteria in the water react with Sulfur in the water to produce H2S gas. I’ve seen a suggestion to up the thermostat on the tank to 160°F (mine only goes to 150°F, so I’m doing that now). Leave it there for a few hours and it’s supposed to kill the bacteria. The other trick I saw on another site was to use 3% Hydrogen Peroxide (the kind you buy at the drugstore) 1cup per 10Gal of tank, leave it for several hours and flush. This also will kill the bacteria. Peroxide breaks down to water and oxygen, so it’s safer than a bleach shock.
Or just get this powered rod and you will be good to go:)
Cranking the heat didn’t work, but the peroxide treatment worked overnight and the smell hasn’t resurfaced since. Simple solution that costs less than $5.
It will resurface, you haven't solved the problem just killed the bacteria temporarily
I worked in the oil and gas fields in northern British Columbia. Before the very first day anyone working in that area is required to take and pass what's called an H2S course before they can even start work. It's poison gas in other words. We were required to wear H2S detectors at all times. It's a deadly gas in fairly low concentrations. One of the sure signs of H2S is that rotten egg smell. If I remember the numbers correctly it can be smelled with concentrations as low as 5 parts per million by some people. I'm baffled what the anode rod would have to do with producing H2S as no doubt your living in an area where it's coming in with your well water. At the minimum I'd have your well water properly tested for the amounts you might be dealing with. H2S is no joke.
Turning Point thank you for clarifying I have been smelling that in my house I was researching and I see it is very dangerous. I hope we can get this fixed ASAP
H2S is a byproduct of organic decomposition. You can also find it in sewage and trash, so it's not out of place in a home as you might think. If the microbes or bacteria are affected by the cathotics in your water heater magnesium is one of the strongest naturally anodic metals used. Zinc is next, aluminium is weaker yet. Jsyk.
Yes, hydrogen sulfide is dangerous if smelled in high doses and for a prolonged period of time. However, it's also out there in nature in decaying plants, animals, and sewage, usually at low oxygen conditions. It also occurs in mines, springs, sewers, swamps, volcanoes, and fossil fuels, etc. The most common cause of smelly water is anaerobic bacteria that exist in some water and react with sulfur and the magnesium and aluminum "sacrificial anodes" that come with most water heaters to produce hydrogen sulfide gas, making the classic rotten egg odor. Using 3% hydrogen peroxide that you can purchase from the drug store may help the smell, however, it will come back. Therefore, replacing the anode rod is the most economical and reasonable option.
Thank you for this info
I plan on changing my anode rod to magnesium. Are you recommending using aluminum
Excellent video thanks so much!!
How is that electric anode rod holding up? I need to replace mine and was considering the electric version
Awesome! Im going to follow you just becausw of this video! Thanks for the information.
Thank you thank you THANK YOU!!!!
Very informative!!
Good information, but that is the plumbing from hell behind you! Reminds me of my favorite three stooges short.
A $14 solution if you only need a gallon per day for drinking that I developed after getting sick of hauling home gallon jugs and then having to recycle them: Use a cheap Walmart aquarium pump, 4 feet of air hose and a 6 inch long aeration stone placed in the bottom of a non-toxic tank of plastic like a 5 gallon blue plastic water jug or a 6 gallon wine making tub or even a glass aquarium. Fill it with your sulfur dioxide or hydrogen sulfide tainted water and aerate for two days or more to let all the sulfur (dissolved gas) aerate out to a level you may not even be able to detect. Here in Florida the sulfur is a dissolved gas that the locals get used to but it irritates my IBS. I can not guarantee it will work in the northeast where I have heard the sulfur can get so bad you have to open a window before taking a shower. But sometimes a very simple solution is adequate and the cheapest too. I still run my water through a Brita filter before drinking but that is an optional luxury in most cases.
Note the perfect location for convenience is to place the container above sink level on a strong shelf. You use a hose to fill the tank from the sink, then siphon off the purified water using gravity as needed.
Hydrogen sulfide's not good for your health. I hope you aren't aerating this in your house.
Oh bullshit. It is in acceptably safe levels in the water, drinking the water puts 100% of it in your body. We end up breathing no more than 1% of it during aeration and it is harmless especially since it comes out over a 48 hour period. Drinking it only bothers me because of my extreme IBS-D condition.
Popeye Gordon, You are exactly right. I have a misting sprayer nozzle spraying back down into my well. Took the water off a hose bibb and ran it through a fine mesh new cattle sprayer filter before it gets to the nozzle. It works good. Using a #6 misting nozzle it uses about 2 1/2 gallons per hour and the pump comes on for a few seconds about every 3-4 hours.
The size difference doesn't matter great video thank u
Hi , would like to know the name of that, thanks
That leatherman's wave has a very high quality knife....You are treating it terribly.
Congrats on 50k+ subscribers! Keep the videos coming, love 'em!
Fantastic video. Thank you.
What does the electrification aspect of this do? Never saw that before
Happy to find your video. We just finished a brand new house with new water heater and the hot water smell is almost enough to make you vomit. The anode appears to be the fix for you but are you positive the water heater was the source or could it be from organics in your well water.
Before you fixed this, did the smell affect the taste of your food or the smell of your laundry?
Also, how quickly did you notice the difference...once that tank's worth of water was gone?
+Zaappp !!! The hot water in our house was so bad I could not take a hot shower without almost throwing up. Now, there is no smell with the hot water at all. It certainly fixed that issue!
That's how ours is right now. The well was actually dug about 2 months ago. 220' deep, pump set at 120', water level at 30'. We fiiiiiiinally got the keys on Jan. 12th. We were moving some stuff yesterday and I was running some hot water in the kitchen sink and almost gagged. My kids came out of their bedrooms to find out what was causing the stench.
I'm going to flush the well for about 30-45 minutes and then bleach shock it. I figured about 1-1/2 gallons of Clorox based on another video and let it sit for a day and then flush it and all the pipes out again. If that doesn't work.....which I'll be surprised considering the amount of odor, I'm going to try the powered anode.
I'm going to have to figure something out quick though because it's unbearable!
@@zaappp1588 Any update?
@@edbreyer I actually shocked the well with about 2 gallons of bleach. It didn't eliminate the smell but it was greatly reduced. The smell would come back from time to time...no explanation but over time it's less frequent and far less offending when it does.
The well driller actually recommended to shock the well once a year which I'm coming up on now.
I still plan to install the titanium anode but I need to install a water softener as well. Lots of minerals and iron.
The sad thing is I was hoping that our new house with a well and septic would pay dividends by eliminating our ridiculous $85-$105 monthly water/sewer bill but counting the cost of the septic/well/water softener plus monthly salt, it will take 20 years to pay for itself.
@@zaappp1588 Thanks for the update. Glad to hear you got some relief from the smell with the bleach well shock. I have ordered the electric anode but think I will also try the well shock - what method did you use? iI it a s simple as pouring bleach down your well shaft? I don't know how deep my well is so I'm not sure how much bleach I should use or how long I need to let it sit. I assume I should run faucets afterwards to flush the bleach out? All suggestions welcome!
"Just the facts ma'am" sounds like Joe Friday.
I have that rotten egg issue. Put in a green sand filtering system which reduced the smell but not completely. My local plumbers tell me to remove the anode rod. They claim the water heater does not need it and it fixes the smell. Seems like the wrong thing to do. I've heard about the power anodes but always wonder if they work. My incoming water from the well has the sticky smell so I/m no 100% convinced the smell originates in my water tank and not sure which way to go. Not sure it's a bacteria growth thing in my tank. thoughts?
If the smell is much worse or only coming from your hot water then this anode rid will fix it. It will not fix smelly water on the cold side
In my community my hot water heater has gone through this 4x in its 13 months existence l, new , and my manager blames my new tank, I've had every material in there, do you recommend the electric rod?
wonderful video thank-you so much for your to the point explanation. As much as Id rather just buy a tankless water heater to solve the problem this is a far cheaper, easier and faster installation solution.
I had the same problem ,I removed the rod and just put on a plug.Its been running with out the rod foe the past 25 years without any problems.
Where did you get the rod from and what's it called again. Thank you
Link in description
Thank you
I recently had problems with Smelly water and disgusting water color and I changed the Anode Rod and found out it was a problem at the Water Reservoir 😡
Great video. I've seen people debate about whether teflon tape interferes with good contact between the the tank threads and the rod threads. Most seem to feel the tape is cut away enough in the process for the proper contact. Maybe it's irrelevant with an electric rod(?)
I'm suffering from this problem with my 17-18 year old water heater (original to the house). Only today did I dig through the insulation to find the rod access. Ordering the socket and wrench soon. I think I may see if I can free up the old rod before I invest in a new one. My neighbor has the same problem, and an aluminum rod he can't use, because he can't get the old one out.
John, that's very good question. You're right, this is irrelevant with an electric rod. Current will flow between the rod itself and the ground installed on the tank!
“Nice to take a hot shower and not want to gag” 😂TRUTH 🤣
U only addressed the hot side. U mentioned it was only worse on the hot side implying it's on both so the smell is coming from ur source...which is still very common. And it's exactly what my prob is. I've bleached it. Smell came back 3 days later. I'm looking to maybe use tablets in my well regularly . But I'm hoping to get some advice from anyone on this..it would be greatly appreciated
Sometimes our cold water has a faint smell to it but nothing that is really noticeable most of the time. We have never sanitized but I would recommend a whole home sediment and possible carbon filter to help with that. Also, use a water softener and you will probably need to sanitize a couple times per year. If you have any plastic CPVC or PEX tubing in your home that could be part of the issue also.
Scroll down to the bottom of this page, it has other reasons it may be returning.
www.skillingsandsons.com/how-to-chlorinate-your-well/
Hi XoSuPerFrEaKox, this is a great video and very informative. However, is does not cover if the smell is coming from your water source. I suffered the same problem that you have and I just fixed it, hopefully permanent. Just made an extremely detailed video about it, I hope it helps you.Thanks!
SSLFamilyDad where r u located my parents just moved into a house in FL that has well water and I would love to fix the rotten egg smell for them?? I can’t physically do this but I would like to know if I can hire someone to do it and what would I ask them to change an anode rod to titanium not magnesium
Does it fix rust stains as well?
Fingers crossed this does it. YUCK sums it up.
Koo vid man my question is what is the difference between the electric rod you bought and a non electric
+Bl00dyBlue559 this one is titanium and requires the charge to protect the water tank properly where as the magnesium rods work onvacchemical reaction which in turn causes the sulfur smell in certain water conditions
Ok thanks
Question: I only have the Sulphur smell in master bath twin sinks (hot and cold). No where else in the house, including that bath. Think this Anode Rod fix is what I need? Tom
No, looks like the problem is coming directly from the drain or the water pipe. A plumber will be able to help you with that.
We have well water and everyone says the smell comes from the well water because of the minerals in the well. Would this make any difference if the smell come from the water and not the anode?
I got a new water heater about 2 months ago and I started smelling bad, do you think is the rod? The smell only comes out on hot water but is hard to believe the rod is bad already within 2 months
It can be the rod or the sulfate reducing bacteria. You should install our Corro-Protec powered rod, it will stop the smell in both situation.
Many thanks!