Thank you for these videos. This is quite an expensive job at the cycle shop and following your instructions has saved me a fair bit of cash and re-greasing the part avoided buying a replacement needlessly. Satisfying to do the job too.
good idea! but now while screwing in the two small bolts on the crank arm with a torque wrench set to 12nm, on the arm it says 13-15nm!? Well I started to screw them in evenly on both bolts and then it slipped? I noticed my hex stripped the internal bolt socket being no where near 15nm? Is the spacer in between the bolts in the gap suppose to be loose or is it suppose to be snug and zero gap, ala' 15nm? I would think 15nm would either snap or strip the bolt, 15nm is hard!! what you think?
You can actually replace the bearings... Bearing #6805. It's cheaper than buying the whole SM-BB52 set. A very good Japanese or USA made bearings about just 20% of the cost. And i have been doing that several times already. Just make sure you're best or very good or at least good in pulling out and pressing in the bearings so you don't damage the housing. Good old Filipino ingenuity.
Funnily enough, I've just replaced my road bike hollowtech 2 bottom bracket and taken a cup apart and the bearing is a 61805RS. If you made the right presses, you're right, you could easily replace them. Problem is, in the UK, the two replacement bearings would cost nearly twice a whole new bottom bracket!
I have same crank new from bike shop when you rotate with back wheel up it acts like crank is just too tight you can feel it. How do I fix this. Shop said it's normal lol thanks
it's tight because it's preloaded pressure the cranks into the bearing. it's different from the square tape which will develop creaks over the time. It won't affect you much.
8 year old video still coming in handy! Thanks alot. Bet this has helped alot of people and will continue to do so!
Thank you for these videos. This is quite an expensive job at the cycle shop and following your instructions has saved me a fair bit of cash and re-greasing the part avoided buying a replacement needlessly. Satisfying to do the job too.
Big thanks for posting Hollowtech replacement videos 1, 2 and 3. I have found them really useful :)
Thank you so much for taking the time to make this video. It's exactly what I was looking for as my bottom bracket needs to be replaced..
but what if the threads are damaged ?
Excellent clear video. I followed them to the letter and had a very easy successful repair. Thank you very much my friend
Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! Just swapped out my BB and it all went perfectly thanks to your video.
Nice to see it being done on a real bike, ie a greasy one that has been used not a shop fresh machine.
Thanks trying to troubleshoot some clicking and have been greatly helped by these detailed videos.
The bearings are sealed units but can they actually be dismantled and cleaned? Should one do that, or simply replace?
good idea! but now while screwing in the two small bolts on the crank
arm with a torque wrench set to 12nm, on the arm it says 13-15nm!? Well
I started to screw them in evenly on both bolts and then it slipped? I
noticed my hex stripped the internal bolt socket being no where near
15nm? Is the spacer in between the bolts in the gap suppose to be loose
or is it suppose to be snug and zero gap, ala' 15nm? I would think 15nm
would either snap or strip the bolt, 15nm is hard!! what you think?
so you take them off , throw away and get a new unit? is it possible to change only the ball bearings ?
It's possible but not worth it.
Wow, my crank arm will not slide out like that. I took a rubber mallet to it and could not get it to let go..
does a hollow bottom bracket fits on a dmr drone jump bike?
mines rocking I've put it all together right , but it rocks. it's the right tightness to. any suggestions?
I have a bit slack on it, should i replace it with new one or clean and lub?
Thank you, good Sir.
Was looking for this. Thanx buddy :-)
You can actually replace the bearings...
Bearing #6805.
It's cheaper than buying the whole SM-BB52 set. A very good Japanese or USA made bearings about just 20% of the cost. And i have been doing that several times already.
Just make sure you're best or very good or at least good in pulling out and pressing in the bearings so you don't damage the housing.
Good old Filipino ingenuity.
Funnily enough, I've just replaced my road bike hollowtech 2 bottom bracket and taken a cup apart and the bearing is a 61805RS. If you made the right presses, you're right, you could easily replace them. Problem is, in the UK, the two replacement bearings would cost nearly twice a whole new bottom bracket!
Hollowtech vs old school catridge: Increased stiffness - maybe. But far worse sealing for sure ;-)
Mine lasted 1 year of constant all-weather commuting, 25Kms each working day.
Is that good or bad by bottom bracket standards?
I have same crank new from bike shop when you rotate with back wheel up it acts like crank is just too tight you can feel it. How do I fix this. Shop said it's normal lol thanks
it's tight because it's preloaded pressure the cranks into the bearing. it's different from the square tape which will develop creaks over the time.
It won't affect you much.
Nice job !! Very helpful indeed!!
Why dou you have one washer in one of the heads, and two washers in the other one?
By washers I mean the spacers. Thnks
Holy cow!
(My first time seeing how this works.)
Printed on the shell of my BB70 bearing it says do not disassemble. Yours?
+Icecyclist Thats like saying "don't push the read button" - you are eventually going to do it :D
Går det att byta till externa vevlager koppar från vevparti (crankarms)?
Du måste byta vevarmarna och vevlager kopparna
Ok bra då vet jag 👍
Japp
Thanks for a simple and useful videoa, mate!
Thanks man! 👍
NiCe, helpful video.
THX MAN!
thanks!
오 감사합니다
nice
You need to purchase a work stand makes life much easier.
You need to fuck off.
Never use your palm as a hammer....you can seriously damage nerves in your hand.
thanks!