How to Remove & Install Shimano Cranks
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- Опубликовано: 28 авг 2015
- This video will show you how to remove Shimano Hollowtech cranks and then reinstall.
Note: in the video I do not apply grease to the spindle before reinstalling. You may do so to ease installation but it is not necessary. If you do, only apply a thin coating. 
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The compression cap is there to preload the crank To butt up against the bearings lightly (i.e. compress it all together) so they are in the correct position on the spindle. At this point you skipped a step where you should check for side to side play and only tighten the cap to the point that there is none. Then torque the bolts up. If you do up the cap tighter than is required to remove play, it'll push the arm up against the bearings too hard and your crank will not spin freely, resulting in bearings wearing out faster. It only needs to be done up to "4 in lbf", which is pretty much lightly finger tight with thumb and index finger, i.e. don't tighten as hard as in this video!
great tip!
Absolutely. The compression cap does the same thing the stem cap does - ensure everything is snug and without free play - before the pinch bolts are tightened. The caps do NOT keep the crank or stem on!
In another video, this guy applies grease to disc rotors splines. Shimano explicitly says not do this. People like this are why I won’t buy a used bike.
This was better at explaining the process than a lot of professional videos.
Right?!
This is a professional video.
Fr, park tools make some garbage instructional videos
I’m glad you mentioned the cap;
I had my bike serviced one time and after less than 30km the cranks fell off from under me! It was very scary and nearly resulted in a big accident.
I loosely put it all back together and returned to the shop.
The mechanics said to me, “that cap is just a dust cover, it isn’t important”, intuition suggested otherwise, and I’m glad to hear you acknowledge this.
Suffice to say I never returned to that shop and do maintenance myself now.
Just pushed my mountain bike back to the car because of the same issue. Luckily it wasn't on a technical or a steep section (which I had been riding the first half of the day - got lucky) when it fell off. Taking it back to the shop to see what they say. Thanks for sharing.
On older designs of bottom brackets the cap is just a dust cover. Someone just didn't get the memo when Shimano updated to the current design.
Most shops are clown shows. I wouldn't trust them with any of my bikes
Watching this six years later, and still useful.. so thank you.
Thanks for the upload. Just had to do this for the first time and this vid was exactly what I needed.
Mate, thank you for the video. I have been trying to figure out this over past few days with no joy. And while looking and pulling things apart I actually threw away the plastic locating thingy from left crank arm. (Luckily I put it in recycling rather than the bin, so was easy to find again). With your vid I was able to get done really quickly. Thanks again
The special tool I was able to go without. Because you explained that it shouldn't be too tight I was able to tap it around with a flat blade screwdriver and mallet on the knurled outer edge without damaging it. And did it up the same way.
Thanks for posting, excellent tutorial. Tip: If you're replacing the crank like I did remove the pedals before you remove the crank, a lot easier when pedals still attach to it.
That's a great video. Wish all bicycle maintenance videos were this good!
Thanks for this. Was changing my bottom bracket and really wanted to ensure I was doing everything in the right order without ruining anything.
As usual great job Clint. I have only done this on my 1997 giant mtb. I had a bit of a collision with a sign after a guy blocked both bike lanes. Started creaking this week, the cranks too. I had the little plastic doo hickey on the wrong way lol so thanks. I would say you forgot to mention the washer that was behind the crank, don't lose that too. Maybe you don't have one. Also the little doo hickey will have space and is not tight and flush with the gap between the bolts. And always a reminder, unwind your torque wrench back to baseline, mine is at 2nm. Don't want to forget that as 13nm for me was pretty tight on the spring. I don't have time to take everything apart, maybe on the weekend, i have to get a change of tires on. Thanks again.
Thank you, I Just un-installed perfectly, thankfully the ultegra crank I'm working on has a more common allen hole for the cap.
Thanks bro! I was able to change my crank with no issues. I didn’t have the special crank tool.. I used the butter knife trick and it worked for me. Salute!
Very clear and instructive video. You are a real teacher!!!
Thank you for this video. You saved me a trip to the bike shop!!
Good video - one thing for anyone watching, do not clamp your carbon frame…. It has a good chance of cracking under pressure. Always clamp the work stand to the seat post!
What if my seat post is also carbon fiber?
@@MSGtJimator seat post is far stronger - clamp it there. Also, even if it was the case you cracked a seat post (which you won’t) I’d rather that than the frame. 👍
@@MSGtJimator I was told that in the bicycle shops they keep dummy aluminium seat posts to temporarily install and allow use of the bicycle stand.
Great video and now I have the confidence to swap out the cranks on my Madone and Domane. Subscribed!
Clear, precise explanation! Congratulations, and thank you very much!
Nicely presented Video Clint - Thanks !!!
Very uncomplicated Step-by-Step instructions that anyone can/shoud be able to followl!!!
However, just two very important points ;
(1) ALWAYS support the Bike by the Saddle Stem - NEVER the Crossbar (especially on Carbon Frames) !!! and ;
(2) Place a Cloth/Clean Rag along the Chainstay prior to resting the Chain after dismounting from the Crank - 'Protect/Respect That Expensive Paintwork' !!!
Great job mate.. very well done and clear + straight to point..pls do more like this
Thank you for this video. I was so worried about doing this but you’ve made it look so easy. Thank you.
Very helpful, removed crank to get off the small ring to convert to 1 x 10. thanks Clint.
Howdy Clint, great video for Shimano Crankset removal and installation, i wouldn't have thought the plastic retention screw on the side is so important,guess you could call it a kingpin in a way.Thanks for such a thorough video, cheers.
very clear, helpful and informative. Thank you!
thank you very much, i tried after seeing your video and went really well, fast and clean
I’ve done a bit of homework before i’m about to install my Stages Ultegra R8000 L power meter which should arrive tomorrow, and your videos is really good and useful. Nice pace and good/clear explanations. So glad that i remembered to order the small TL-FC tool for the dust cap removal.
Fingers crossed for a successful install tomorrow and the maiden ride with power meter on my brand new De Rosa Planet
And thx for the video
Thanks Clint, gave me the confidence to have a go. Worked out just fine.
Thanks mate. Due to this video i I was able to remove the Crank without any force.
This is why I like this kind of Video's.
👍
Thanks for posting this ! Very helpful
Clint Great Crank Tutorial...ive used it 5 or 6 times now and it helps every time. THANKS!!
Excellent guide, very clear and concise explanation. The only thing I would differ is putting Thread Locker for the crank cap thread, not grease.
"And the birds will cheer you on as you do it!" I like instructional videos with a little humor.
Awesome video! Really good that you are explaining why things exist, .i.e . the last few seconds of the video when you explain what function the cap have (I once was that guy that missed the cap ;-))
Thank you for this video. I am planning to upgrade the crankset of my roadbike. This is really helpful.
Thanks for the video. Very clear and will help me change my chain ring which is worn. Cheers.
"what really holds the crank arm on is that cap.."
So, in other words, don't tighten down the non-drive side crank, and then spin the cap in/on. No wonder why my left crank was loosening up! Thank you! - AB in Santa Barbara, California and Sabah, Borneo
thanks! and nice shirt, swapping out my crank for a compact for the 6 Gap ride this weekend!
Nice video Clint, easy to follow and to listen too. Even a clumsy ape like me might be able to change to a semi compact, i'll see how i go. Some swearing and possible injuries may occur but i'll have a new chain set on at some point.
Thanks for this nice and easy to follow tutorial. 👍
excellent video, thanks! looking forward to more
Went for a ride yesterday and my Shimano M627 crankarm (left side) fell off. Thank God I wasn't jumping at the time. Pushed it to a Goodyear tire shop and they were kind enough to reinstall it for me.
The cap is to preload the bearings. Once preloaded you tighten down the crankarm with the pinch bolts. In theory you then can even remove the cap. Same principle as ahead headset...
I find that not tightening the cap allows me to ensure that the pin, which on mine are aluminum, enters the hole in the crankarm shaft. This creates perfect registration. Then I tighten the cap, and then the allen head bolts..
I dont mean to be so off topic but does someone know a tool to get back into an instagram account..?
I was stupid forgot my account password. I appreciate any tricks you can offer me!
@Gunner Riley Instablaster =)
@Draven London I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site thru google and im trying it out now.
I see it takes a while so I will reply here later with my results.
@Draven London it did the trick and I actually got access to my account again. I'm so happy!
Thank you so much, you saved my account :D
Thanks for the video Clint, very helpfull!
Cool thanks! Favorited for whenever I start a build. I will probably use some XT cranks.
Just got my first power meter. Very excited.
Awesome video. Same bike. DA crank will noodle by 20000 kms (at least at intensity). Switch to 9100 DA and you will be shocked by gaining 0.75-1 km hr and a clear stiffer feel. Arms and spindle soften on 75kg and more riders. 15,000 kms most per crank system.
Excellent advice, thank you.
Great video, just what I needed. Just annoying to find out I need some special tool for the cap.
thanks made it look easy did job straight forward
thank you very much! that was very helpful.
fantastic film. compliments, well done
Hey great description, Im about to change rings from composite to 39/53, appreciate your guidance. Thanks
nice explanation. clear and detailed.
thanks for this. my crank arm just fell off. luckily only a half mile away from home. I'm trying to put it back in but it's not twisting in easily at all. I hope it's not stripped..ordering a proper tool today.
Thank you for this video. Well done ! :)
Nice tee shirt! Greetings, from Dahlonega, Georgia.
I was thinking the same thing.
this is a great video - thankyou!
Thankyou Clint! Very helpful.
great video! Thanks, man.
brilliant. thanks for making this.
"And the birds will cheer you on while you do it" XD love it
Great video - thanks a lot.
Thanks for the video, helped me out a lot!
Hi Clint, thanks for your helpful video - finally got round to doing it today. I followed your instructions after removing the pedals but found the crank arm spacer was difficult to move and it split. Nothing serious as it's easy and inexpensive to buy a replacement part. Perhaps a bit of lube is recommended if the spacer appears to be sticky and hard to rotate. I had no difficulty fitting the new crankset as I wanted a crankset with 172.5 rather than 170 arms.
Very informative. Thanks
Perfect video. Thankyou 👍
Hi Clint. Thank you for the great videos. Is there a chance to add a video that will discuss the importance of crank length, how to choose the right length for you and maybe add a comparison between different crank lengths in terms of power efficiency (and perhaps other considerations)?
Thanks!
Thanks for the video !
Great video. Thanks.
Thanks mate!
Excellent, thanks for that.
man, this video is as good as from Park Tool ;-)
I just looked at your video again. I had replaced my chainrings 3 days ago and the crankset went on smoothly. However, when I rode yesterday, I heard a couple of knocks down there, so I dis-assembled again this morning to see if anything was amiss. When I went to pull the drive side through it pulled that race from the right side of the bottom bracket out. Never did that before. I had a dickens of a time getting it back in but finally was able to work it in. Operation seems good after a test ride. Have you ever had that side of the bottom bracket come out and why would it be so difficult to get back in?
Excellent narrative!
I have been looking for a tool to remove the Bottom bracket, thanks to this video I was able to find it. The Shimano TL-fc16. I bought a Torx, but it doesn't fit properly and damaged the fitting.
great video! thank you
Excellent video. 👍
Oh it looks relatively easy. Nice one.
Hello I am going to change my frame to a aluminum frame and was wondering if I can carry over the bottom bracket of my old frame on to the new frame they are not around the same age 2011-2014
Very usefull! Thx for sharing :)
Great video! Anyone have suggestions for dust cap removal without key/tool? No local shops sell it and Amazon is a week away because of Covid. Butter knife, dime, screwdriver, crowbars, etc... not working.
Thanks for this video
Careful clamping a carbon frame like that...it’ll crack. Yes, experience sucks. Recommend clamping on the seat-post.
Thanks for the vid.
Not only that, if you have a carbon seat post, try to get an aluminum seat post that also fits, and clamp on that.
@@g33dav3y I JUST got done shearing the seatpost clamp bolt off on my carbon seatpost, ya know because I set the torque wrench for tightening the SEAT bolt (16nm) vs the CLAMP bolt (9nm)....I'm an idiot...BUT...the carbon fiber seatpost...none the worse for wear...lucky break....so the POINT: CF seatpost is pretty tough.
@@stillededge note that the pressure of a seat clamp around a seat post is uniform, while a bike stand clamp may put pressure on only four or maybe even only two points on a seat post.
Thanks for the video, and I thought the plastic cap was some sort of cosmetic cover.
I think it can be.
I don't use the pinch bolts because it's the cap that holds on the cranks after all. I also use acetone to wipe down my bike after each ride
Your voice reminds me of Marty Byrde
Holy shit I just finished it and I can't forget about it
Hello Clint, it's your subscriber from the Basque Country again. I just came back to this video and got sleepy - you transmit peace in this video. I think voice is an underestimated ingredient in video making. Many people like or dislike videos the first seconds only based on what the speaker subconsciously transmits to them. I just felt I could share these thoughts. Anyways, Florida looks stunning in late spring, keep it great as always!
Use a butter knife if you don't have that little plastik tool.
i use an old axle
Quite good video. It helped a lot. Thank you.
Really nice vid
Thanks for sharing 🙏
Nice video!
Thank you.
How was that grease? I was considering to buy some grease and I just saw the exact same grease on amazon.
AWESOME VID
Thanks for the video. Very useful as I am watching you from France.
nice video.. can i ask a question? bb30 can be fit in 24mm bb?thanks...
Thanks alot.
can i use a 14mm or 15mm allen key if i dont have a crank cap removal tool?
@ClintGibbs When installing the crank arms, is there a certain opposing position each arm should be in? Should they be 180 degrees opposite of each other?
Yes