The compression cap is there to preload the crank To butt up against the bearings lightly (i.e. compress it all together) so they are in the correct position on the spindle. At this point you skipped a step where you should check for side to side play and only tighten the cap to the point that there is none. Then torque the bolts up. If you do up the cap tighter than is required to remove play, it'll push the arm up against the bearings too hard and your crank will not spin freely, resulting in bearings wearing out faster. It only needs to be done up to "4 in lbf", which is pretty much lightly finger tight with thumb and index finger, i.e. don't tighten as hard as in this video!
Absolutely. The compression cap does the same thing the stem cap does - ensure everything is snug and without free play - before the pinch bolts are tightened. The caps do NOT keep the crank or stem on!
In another video, this guy applies grease to disc rotors splines. Shimano explicitly says not do this. People like this are why I won’t buy a used bike.
I’m glad you mentioned the cap; I had my bike serviced one time and after less than 30km the cranks fell off from under me! It was very scary and nearly resulted in a big accident. I loosely put it all back together and returned to the shop. The mechanics said to me, “that cap is just a dust cover, it isn’t important”, intuition suggested otherwise, and I’m glad to hear you acknowledge this. Suffice to say I never returned to that shop and do maintenance myself now.
Just pushed my mountain bike back to the car because of the same issue. Luckily it wasn't on a technical or a steep section (which I had been riding the first half of the day - got lucky) when it fell off. Taking it back to the shop to see what they say. Thanks for sharing.
I just put on a 4iii crank arm power meter, you're I used your video, you saved me the money at the bike store. Only tool I had to buy was the bottom bracket tool that had the cap tightener on it, I needed one anyway so it wasn't a big deal 😎.
This video is Golden and concise. Thank you!!! I'm here because i just bought a used bike, and while swapping out for a personal seat, the darn 'wedge piece' seatpost clamp fell into the frame and got wedged by the water cage hole. Need to take the bottom bracket out to fish it out...
Thanks for posting, excellent tutorial. Tip: If you're replacing the crank like I did remove the pedals before you remove the crank, a lot easier when pedals still attach to it.
Mate, thank you for the video. I have been trying to figure out this over past few days with no joy. And while looking and pulling things apart I actually threw away the plastic locating thingy from left crank arm. (Luckily I put it in recycling rather than the bin, so was easy to find again). With your vid I was able to get done really quickly. Thanks again The special tool I was able to go without. Because you explained that it shouldn't be too tight I was able to tap it around with a flat blade screwdriver and mallet on the knurled outer edge without damaging it. And did it up the same way.
The cap is to preload the bearings. Once preloaded you tighten down the crankarm with the pinch bolts. In theory you then can even remove the cap. Same principle as ahead headset...
I find that not tightening the cap allows me to ensure that the pin, which on mine are aluminum, enters the hole in the crankarm shaft. This creates perfect registration. Then I tighten the cap, and then the allen head bolts..
I dont mean to be so off topic but does someone know a tool to get back into an instagram account..? I was stupid forgot my account password. I appreciate any tricks you can offer me!
@Draven London I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site thru google and im trying it out now. I see it takes a while so I will reply here later with my results.
Just want to thank you for this video. I built up a frame that, years later, broke - and couldn't remember the process of taking the GRX crankset I put on there back off.
Good video - one thing for anyone watching, do not clamp your carbon frame…. It has a good chance of cracking under pressure. Always clamp the work stand to the seat post!
@@MSGtJimator seat post is far stronger - clamp it there. Also, even if it was the case you cracked a seat post (which you won’t) I’d rather that than the frame. 👍
Thanks bro! I was able to change my crank with no issues. I didn’t have the special crank tool.. I used the butter knife trick and it worked for me. Salute!
Good video. Please don't clamp your bike frame to the stand. Hang it by the seatpost. The frame, especially carbon and odd-shaped carbon isn't designed to bear that load.
As usual great job Clint. I have only done this on my 1997 giant mtb. I had a bit of a collision with a sign after a guy blocked both bike lanes. Started creaking this week, the cranks too. I had the little plastic doo hickey on the wrong way lol so thanks. I would say you forgot to mention the washer that was behind the crank, don't lose that too. Maybe you don't have one. Also the little doo hickey will have space and is not tight and flush with the gap between the bolts. And always a reminder, unwind your torque wrench back to baseline, mine is at 2nm. Don't want to forget that as 13nm for me was pretty tight on the spring. I don't have time to take everything apart, maybe on the weekend, i have to get a change of tires on. Thanks again.
Awesome video. Same bike. DA crank will noodle by 20000 kms (at least at intensity). Switch to 9100 DA and you will be shocked by gaining 0.75-1 km hr and a clear stiffer feel. Arms and spindle soften on 75kg and more riders. 15,000 kms most per crank system.
"what really holds the crank arm on is that cap.." So, in other words, don't tighten down the non-drive side crank, and then spin the cap in/on. No wonder why my left crank was loosening up! Thank you! - AB in Santa Barbara, California and Sabah, Borneo
thanks for this. my crank arm just fell off. luckily only a half mile away from home. I'm trying to put it back in but it's not twisting in easily at all. I hope it's not stripped..ordering a proper tool today.
I’ve done a bit of homework before i’m about to install my Stages Ultegra R8000 L power meter which should arrive tomorrow, and your videos is really good and useful. Nice pace and good/clear explanations. So glad that i remembered to order the small TL-FC tool for the dust cap removal. Fingers crossed for a successful install tomorrow and the maiden ride with power meter on my brand new De Rosa Planet
Nicely presented Video Clint - Thanks !!! Very uncomplicated Step-by-Step instructions that anyone can/shoud be able to followl!!! However, just two very important points ; (1) ALWAYS support the Bike by the Saddle Stem - NEVER the Crossbar (especially on Carbon Frames) !!! and ; (2) Place a Cloth/Clean Rag along the Chainstay prior to resting the Chain after dismounting from the Crank - 'Protect/Respect That Expensive Paintwork' !!!
Howdy Clint, great video for Shimano Crankset removal and installation, i wouldn't have thought the plastic retention screw on the side is so important,guess you could call it a kingpin in a way.Thanks for such a thorough video, cheers.
Awesome video! Really good that you are explaining why things exist, .i.e . the last few seconds of the video when you explain what function the cap have (I once was that guy that missed the cap ;-))
Nice video Clint, easy to follow and to listen too. Even a clumsy ape like me might be able to change to a semi compact, i'll see how i go. Some swearing and possible injuries may occur but i'll have a new chain set on at some point.
Hello Clint, it's your subscriber from the Basque Country again. I just came back to this video and got sleepy - you transmit peace in this video. I think voice is an underestimated ingredient in video making. Many people like or dislike videos the first seconds only based on what the speaker subconsciously transmits to them. I just felt I could share these thoughts. Anyways, Florida looks stunning in late spring, keep it great as always!
Hi Clint. Thank you for the great videos. Is there a chance to add a video that will discuss the importance of crank length, how to choose the right length for you and maybe add a comparison between different crank lengths in terms of power efficiency (and perhaps other considerations)?
Well Done! Next time show us all the maintenance. Those that don't want or need to see that extra footage can FF to the points they care to see! Thanks again!
@@g33dav3y I JUST got done shearing the seatpost clamp bolt off on my carbon seatpost, ya know because I set the torque wrench for tightening the SEAT bolt (16nm) vs the CLAMP bolt (9nm)....I'm an idiot...BUT...the carbon fiber seatpost...none the worse for wear...lucky break....so the POINT: CF seatpost is pretty tough.
@@stillededge note that the pressure of a seat clamp around a seat post is uniform, while a bike stand clamp may put pressure on only four or maybe even only two points on a seat post.
Hi Clint, thanks for your helpful video - finally got round to doing it today. I followed your instructions after removing the pedals but found the crank arm spacer was difficult to move and it split. Nothing serious as it's easy and inexpensive to buy a replacement part. Perhaps a bit of lube is recommended if the spacer appears to be sticky and hard to rotate. I had no difficulty fitting the new crankset as I wanted a crankset with 172.5 rather than 170 arms.
I have been looking for a tool to remove the Bottom bracket, thanks to this video I was able to find it. The Shimano TL-fc16. I bought a Torx, but it doesn't fit properly and damaged the fitting.
Thanks for video, removed the crank, added heat - broke 1 allen drive bit + sheered open the pedal grease cap and scored the $h*t out of the crank arm finish....going to replace the crank set to replace the pedals!!! Dang
Excellent video, but extremely risky clamping a carbon fiber frame in a bike repair stand. Avoid this and instead clamp the seat post. At least this is what my local bike shop told me to do with carbon and aluminum frames to avoid damaging the frame.
This bike had an aero seat post so I could not do that. I’m very cautious with this and do a very light clamping force. A fraction of the stress but on the frame compared to a sprint.
Great question. Metal stretches. Once you torque a bolt it "relaxes" and the remaining torque is below what you just applied with the torque wrench. Going back and torquing the bolt again stretches the bolt and effectively applies too much torque.
Hello I am going to change my frame to a aluminum frame and was wondering if I can carry over the bottom bracket of my old frame on to the new frame they are not around the same age 2011-2014
I just looked at your video again. I had replaced my chainrings 3 days ago and the crankset went on smoothly. However, when I rode yesterday, I heard a couple of knocks down there, so I dis-assembled again this morning to see if anything was amiss. When I went to pull the drive side through it pulled that race from the right side of the bottom bracket out. Never did that before. I had a dickens of a time getting it back in but finally was able to work it in. Operation seems good after a test ride. Have you ever had that side of the bottom bracket come out and why would it be so difficult to get back in?
Great video! Anyone have suggestions for dust cap removal without key/tool? No local shops sell it and Amazon is a week away because of Covid. Butter knife, dime, screwdriver, crowbars, etc... not working.
no mention of the o-ring (metallic one side, rubber on other and thin) that is on the inside of the cranks where they go into the BB bearings...I took mine off to clean and now don't recall which way it goes back on - did not notice it in the video at all.
The compression cap is there to preload the crank To butt up against the bearings lightly (i.e. compress it all together) so they are in the correct position on the spindle. At this point you skipped a step where you should check for side to side play and only tighten the cap to the point that there is none. Then torque the bolts up. If you do up the cap tighter than is required to remove play, it'll push the arm up against the bearings too hard and your crank will not spin freely, resulting in bearings wearing out faster. It only needs to be done up to "4 in lbf", which is pretty much lightly finger tight with thumb and index finger, i.e. don't tighten as hard as in this video!
great tip!
Absolutely. The compression cap does the same thing the stem cap does - ensure everything is snug and without free play - before the pinch bolts are tightened. The caps do NOT keep the crank or stem on!
In another video, this guy applies grease to disc rotors splines. Shimano explicitly says not do this. People like this are why I won’t buy a used bike.
I’m glad you mentioned the cap;
I had my bike serviced one time and after less than 30km the cranks fell off from under me! It was very scary and nearly resulted in a big accident.
I loosely put it all back together and returned to the shop.
The mechanics said to me, “that cap is just a dust cover, it isn’t important”, intuition suggested otherwise, and I’m glad to hear you acknowledge this.
Suffice to say I never returned to that shop and do maintenance myself now.
Just pushed my mountain bike back to the car because of the same issue. Luckily it wasn't on a technical or a steep section (which I had been riding the first half of the day - got lucky) when it fell off. Taking it back to the shop to see what they say. Thanks for sharing.
On older designs of bottom brackets the cap is just a dust cover. Someone just didn't get the memo when Shimano updated to the current design.
Most shops are clown shows. I wouldn't trust them with any of my bikes
This was better at explaining the process than a lot of professional videos.
Right?!
This is a professional video.
Fr, park tools make some garbage instructional videos
I just put on a 4iii crank arm power meter, you're I used your video, you saved me the money at the bike store. Only tool I had to buy was the bottom bracket tool that had the cap tightener on it, I needed one anyway so it wasn't a big deal 😎.
This video is Golden and concise. Thank you!!!
I'm here because i just bought a used bike, and while swapping out for a personal seat, the darn 'wedge piece' seatpost clamp fell into the frame and got wedged by the water cage hole. Need to take the bottom bracket out to fish it out...
Watching this six years later, and still useful.. so thank you.
Thanks for posting, excellent tutorial. Tip: If you're replacing the crank like I did remove the pedals before you remove the crank, a lot easier when pedals still attach to it.
Mate, thank you for the video. I have been trying to figure out this over past few days with no joy. And while looking and pulling things apart I actually threw away the plastic locating thingy from left crank arm. (Luckily I put it in recycling rather than the bin, so was easy to find again). With your vid I was able to get done really quickly. Thanks again
The special tool I was able to go without. Because you explained that it shouldn't be too tight I was able to tap it around with a flat blade screwdriver and mallet on the knurled outer edge without damaging it. And did it up the same way.
The cap is to preload the bearings. Once preloaded you tighten down the crankarm with the pinch bolts. In theory you then can even remove the cap. Same principle as ahead headset...
I find that not tightening the cap allows me to ensure that the pin, which on mine are aluminum, enters the hole in the crankarm shaft. This creates perfect registration. Then I tighten the cap, and then the allen head bolts..
I dont mean to be so off topic but does someone know a tool to get back into an instagram account..?
I was stupid forgot my account password. I appreciate any tricks you can offer me!
@Gunner Riley Instablaster =)
@Draven London I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site thru google and im trying it out now.
I see it takes a while so I will reply here later with my results.
@Draven London it did the trick and I actually got access to my account again. I'm so happy!
Thank you so much, you saved my account :D
Just want to thank you for this video. I built up a frame that, years later, broke - and couldn't remember the process of taking the GRX crankset I put on there back off.
Good video - one thing for anyone watching, do not clamp your carbon frame…. It has a good chance of cracking under pressure. Always clamp the work stand to the seat post!
What if my seat post is also carbon fiber?
@@MSGtJimator seat post is far stronger - clamp it there. Also, even if it was the case you cracked a seat post (which you won’t) I’d rather that than the frame. 👍
@@MSGtJimator I was told that in the bicycle shops they keep dummy aluminium seat posts to temporarily install and allow use of the bicycle stand.
Thanks bro! I was able to change my crank with no issues. I didn’t have the special crank tool.. I used the butter knife trick and it worked for me. Salute!
Excellent guide, very clear and concise explanation. The only thing I would differ is putting Thread Locker for the crank cap thread, not grease.
Thanks for this. Was changing my bottom bracket and really wanted to ensure I was doing everything in the right order without ruining anything.
Good video. Please don't clamp your bike frame to the stand. Hang it by the seatpost. The frame, especially carbon and odd-shaped carbon isn't designed to bear that load.
As usual great job Clint. I have only done this on my 1997 giant mtb. I had a bit of a collision with a sign after a guy blocked both bike lanes. Started creaking this week, the cranks too. I had the little plastic doo hickey on the wrong way lol so thanks. I would say you forgot to mention the washer that was behind the crank, don't lose that too. Maybe you don't have one. Also the little doo hickey will have space and is not tight and flush with the gap between the bolts. And always a reminder, unwind your torque wrench back to baseline, mine is at 2nm. Don't want to forget that as 13nm for me was pretty tight on the spring. I don't have time to take everything apart, maybe on the weekend, i have to get a change of tires on. Thanks again.
Awesome video. Same bike. DA crank will noodle by 20000 kms (at least at intensity). Switch to 9100 DA and you will be shocked by gaining 0.75-1 km hr and a clear stiffer feel. Arms and spindle soften on 75kg and more riders. 15,000 kms most per crank system.
"what really holds the crank arm on is that cap.."
So, in other words, don't tighten down the non-drive side crank, and then spin the cap in/on. No wonder why my left crank was loosening up! Thank you! - AB in Santa Barbara, California and Sabah, Borneo
Clint Great Crank Tutorial...ive used it 5 or 6 times now and it helps every time. THANKS!!
thanks for this. my crank arm just fell off. luckily only a half mile away from home. I'm trying to put it back in but it's not twisting in easily at all. I hope it's not stripped..ordering a proper tool today.
I’ve done a bit of homework before i’m about to install my Stages Ultegra R8000 L power meter which should arrive tomorrow, and your videos is really good and useful. Nice pace and good/clear explanations. So glad that i remembered to order the small TL-FC tool for the dust cap removal.
Fingers crossed for a successful install tomorrow and the maiden ride with power meter on my brand new De Rosa Planet
And thx for the video
Great video and now I have the confidence to swap out the cranks on my Madone and Domane. Subscribed!
Thanks for the upload. Just had to do this for the first time and this vid was exactly what I needed.
Nicely presented Video Clint - Thanks !!!
Very uncomplicated Step-by-Step instructions that anyone can/shoud be able to followl!!!
However, just two very important points ;
(1) ALWAYS support the Bike by the Saddle Stem - NEVER the Crossbar (especially on Carbon Frames) !!! and ;
(2) Place a Cloth/Clean Rag along the Chainstay prior to resting the Chain after dismounting from the Crank - 'Protect/Respect That Expensive Paintwork' !!!
Thank you, I Just un-installed perfectly, thankfully the ultegra crank I'm working on has a more common allen hole for the cap.
That's a great video. Wish all bicycle maintenance videos were this good!
Howdy Clint, great video for Shimano Crankset removal and installation, i wouldn't have thought the plastic retention screw on the side is so important,guess you could call it a kingpin in a way.Thanks for such a thorough video, cheers.
Awesome video! Really good that you are explaining why things exist, .i.e . the last few seconds of the video when you explain what function the cap have (I once was that guy that missed the cap ;-))
Thank you for this video. I was so worried about doing this but you’ve made it look so easy. Thank you.
Thanks Clint, gave me the confidence to have a go. Worked out just fine.
Thank you for this video. You saved me a trip to the bike shop!!
Thank you Clint for a very helpful video.
Nice video Clint, easy to follow and to listen too. Even a clumsy ape like me might be able to change to a semi compact, i'll see how i go. Some swearing and possible injuries may occur but i'll have a new chain set on at some point.
Just got my first power meter. Very excited.
Thank you for this video. I am planning to upgrade the crankset of my roadbike. This is really helpful.
Thanks mate. Due to this video i I was able to remove the Crank without any force.
This is why I like this kind of Video's.
👍
Hello Clint, it's your subscriber from the Basque Country again. I just came back to this video and got sleepy - you transmit peace in this video. I think voice is an underestimated ingredient in video making. Many people like or dislike videos the first seconds only based on what the speaker subconsciously transmits to them. I just felt I could share these thoughts. Anyways, Florida looks stunning in late spring, keep it great as always!
Hi Clint. Thank you for the great videos. Is there a chance to add a video that will discuss the importance of crank length, how to choose the right length for you and maybe add a comparison between different crank lengths in terms of power efficiency (and perhaps other considerations)?
Use a butter knife if you don't have that little plastik tool.
i use an old axle
"And the birds will cheer you on as you do it!" I like instructional videos with a little humor.
Very helpful, removed crank to get off the small ring to convert to 1 x 10. thanks Clint.
Well Done! Next time show us all the maintenance. Those that don't want or need to see that extra footage can FF to the points they care to see!
Thanks again!
thank you very much, i tried after seeing your video and went really well, fast and clean
Thanks for the video. Very clear and will help me change my chain ring which is worn. Cheers.
Thanks for the video, and I thought the plastic cap was some sort of cosmetic cover.
I think it can be.
Careful clamping a carbon frame like that...it’ll crack. Yes, experience sucks. Recommend clamping on the seat-post.
Thanks for the vid.
Not only that, if you have a carbon seat post, try to get an aluminum seat post that also fits, and clamp on that.
@@g33dav3y I JUST got done shearing the seatpost clamp bolt off on my carbon seatpost, ya know because I set the torque wrench for tightening the SEAT bolt (16nm) vs the CLAMP bolt (9nm)....I'm an idiot...BUT...the carbon fiber seatpost...none the worse for wear...lucky break....so the POINT: CF seatpost is pretty tough.
@@stillededge note that the pressure of a seat clamp around a seat post is uniform, while a bike stand clamp may put pressure on only four or maybe even only two points on a seat post.
Great job mate.. very well done and clear + straight to point..pls do more like this
Clear, precise explanation! Congratulations, and thank you very much!
Hi Clint, thanks for your helpful video - finally got round to doing it today. I followed your instructions after removing the pedals but found the crank arm spacer was difficult to move and it split. Nothing serious as it's easy and inexpensive to buy a replacement part. Perhaps a bit of lube is recommended if the spacer appears to be sticky and hard to rotate. I had no difficulty fitting the new crankset as I wanted a crankset with 172.5 rather than 170 arms.
Very clear and instructive video. You are a real teacher!!!
I have been looking for a tool to remove the Bottom bracket, thanks to this video I was able to find it. The Shimano TL-fc16. I bought a Torx, but it doesn't fit properly and damaged the fitting.
Your voice reminds me of Marty Byrde
Holy shit I just finished it and I can't forget about it
Thanks for video, removed the crank, added heat - broke 1 allen drive bit + sheered open the pedal grease cap and scored the $h*t out of the crank arm finish....going to replace the crank set to replace the pedals!!! Dang
I don't use the pinch bolts because it's the cap that holds on the cranks after all. I also use acetone to wipe down my bike after each ride
Thanks for the video, helped me out a lot!
Great video, just what I needed. Just annoying to find out I need some special tool for the cap.
Excellent video, but extremely risky clamping a carbon fiber frame in a bike repair stand. Avoid this and instead clamp the seat post. At least this is what my local bike shop told me to do with carbon and aluminum frames to avoid damaging the frame.
This bike had an aero seat post so I could not do that. I’m very cautious with this and do a very light clamping force. A fraction of the stress but on the frame compared to a sprint.
Thankyou Clint! Very helpful.
Thanks for this nice and easy to follow tutorial. 👍
"And the birds will cheer you on while you do it" XD love it
Cool thanks! Favorited for whenever I start a build. I will probably use some XT cranks.
Nice tee shirt! Greetings, from Dahlonega, Georgia.
I was thinking the same thing.
man, this video is as good as from Park Tool ;-)
Bro don’t clamp the top tube. Otherwise great video
Very helpful video. Please do not torque bolts twice. You have over-torqued the fastener if you go back and torque it again.
how would it overtorque if the clicker is set to indicate at the calibrated torque ?
Great question. Metal stretches. Once you torque a bolt it "relaxes" and the remaining torque is below what you just applied with the torque wrench. Going back and torquing the bolt again stretches the bolt and effectively applies too much torque.
Oh it looks relatively easy. Nice one.
thanks! and nice shirt, swapping out my crank for a compact for the 6 Gap ride this weekend!
Excellent video. 👍
Excellent narrative!
Perfect video. Thankyou 👍
very clear, helpful and informative. Thank you!
nice explanation. clear and detailed.
Thanks for posting this ! Very helpful
Thanks for the video. Very useful as I am watching you from France.
Hey great description, Im about to change rings from composite to 39/53, appreciate your guidance. Thanks
Excellent advice, thank you.
excellent video, thanks! looking forward to more
Thanks for this video
Very informative. Thanks
Very usefull! Thx for sharing :)
Nice video!
fantastic film. compliments, well done
Thanks for the video !
Quite good video. It helped a lot. Thank you.
Thanks for sharing 🙏
Hello I am going to change my frame to a aluminum frame and was wondering if I can carry over the bottom bracket of my old frame on to the new frame they are not around the same age 2011-2014
great video! thank you
Thanks for the video Clint, very helpfull!
Thank you for this video. Well done ! :)
nice video.. can i ask a question? bb30 can be fit in 24mm bb?thanks...
AWESOME VID
I just looked at your video again. I had replaced my chainrings 3 days ago and the crankset went on smoothly. However, when I rode yesterday, I heard a couple of knocks down there, so I dis-assembled again this morning to see if anything was amiss. When I went to pull the drive side through it pulled that race from the right side of the bottom bracket out. Never did that before. I had a dickens of a time getting it back in but finally was able to work it in. Operation seems good after a test ride. Have you ever had that side of the bottom bracket come out and why would it be so difficult to get back in?
this is a great video - thankyou!
brilliant. thanks for making this.
Great video! Anyone have suggestions for dust cap removal without key/tool? No local shops sell it and Amazon is a week away because of Covid. Butter knife, dime, screwdriver, crowbars, etc... not working.
thank you very much! that was very helpful.
can i use a 14mm or 15mm allen key if i dont have a crank cap removal tool?
no mention of the o-ring (metallic one side, rubber on other and thin) that is on the inside of the cranks where they go into the BB bearings...I took mine off to clean and now don't recall which way it goes back on - did not notice it in the video at all.
+SirCamsmorethanalot if it's the one I'm thinking of it just goes on the inside of the crank arm before you install it on the bottom bracket.
Advice, keep your hands clean by using latex gloves.
great video! Thanks, man.