Thank you, Ollie, for speaking slowly and distinctly. I was born and raised in New Jersey (USA) and I used to think we talked fast. You Tube videos have persuaded me otherwise. This one was a real treat.
I'm just having a good ole time imagining people installing the left side crank arm parallel to the right side and riding their bike with both feet circling in unison.
Ollie, I should warn you that another well done bike maintenance video such as this one can only be a detriment to your career aspirations. It is well known in the corporate world that becoming known for mastering the details can hold you back in your climbing, your climbing of the corporate ladder that is. If you become too valuable to GCN as the "how to" guy you'll find more and more of those cycling trips around the world going to your colleagues as you stay there in the blustery UK wrenching on bikes in the studio. Take a look at Dan's ascent to the top and you'll get why you never want to get too good at what you're doing.
If you don’t have the Shimano preload tool, you can also try with some pliers or scissors by putting them in and extending them (i.e. using the outside of the pliers to grip in the grooves). The cap should only require minimal force to turn, so it is quite doable.
Great video and I wouldn't change a thing you said. The only addition I would make is just a word of caution. When putting your crankset back on, you'll of course, as he says, not push the drive side all the way against the frame because your chain is there. So you'll put the chain on one of the chain rings, and then make sure you finish pushing the chain ring side all the way in. I had an issue with chain rub a few weeks ago and couldn't figure it out to save my life. Turns out that when I had taken my cranks off for a good cleaning, I hadn't finished pushing the drive side all the way in and it was causing the chain rub. So just take your time, follow everything in the video, and make sure to clean and re lube everything as he says. Have a safe ride!
Just want to let everyone know about Shimano 105 r7000 chainrings in the event of replacement. You cannot use (without modification) the older 5800 series Shimano 105 chainrings on a Shimano 105 r7000 crank. The 5800 chainrings differ slightly from the newer r7000 rings, as there's a notch/cutout on the newer version's rings. And although they're both Shimano 105 offering the same bolt pattern and bcd measurements, 5800 series Shimano 105 chainrings *cannot* be put onto an r7000 crankset *without creating your own notch on the 5800 ring(s).* Best bet is to buy the exact same r7000 ring(s) for your particular r7000 crankset (same teeth amount is important too). And I'd *only* buy 5800 rings if I knew exactly what to do to make them fit properly on my r7000 crankset, as they do need to be modified. However, if you own an older Shimano 105 5800 series crankset and want to replace those rings, you can use either series' rings, without modification. NOTE: The above applies to Shimano Ultegra r8000 as well. Source: I own both versions of 105 and have done the modification mentioned above successfully. Always buy the correct rings though if you can.
I'm swapping out my 5800 for the R7000 series crankset, i've heard mixed reports about the old 5800 derailleur not being compatible. Do you know if this is true?
That's very timely, Ollie. Thanks. I'm just waiting for the bike shop to get the pre-load tool in, and then I can install my replacement chainset. They said they should get it by tomorrow. On Friday the temperature got up to 25C here in Ottawa, Canada, but this morning it snowed, less than six months after our last snowfall. Arghhhh!
@@panzerveps I already tried that, along with a knife blade. Neither worked. I didn't go at it too hard because I was afraid of stripping the contact surface on the pre-load cap.
Ollie you should have explained how to preload the bearings more carefully as the preload has big affect on the longevity of the bearings. The GXP crank should have a wave washer on the drive side and the washer acts as a spring which automatically adjusts the preload. As the Shimano preload is a manual adjustment it should be checked with a quick spin by gently flicking down the crank arm which should spin around 1.5 turns or so. It is also good to check the GXP preload the same way and if the crank arm doesn't move in a silky fashion I recommend to take out the wave washer and lightly hammer out the waves in the washer to reduce the preload. I'd also recommend to check for lateral play in the crank arms by clasping the drive side crank arm against the chainstay with your left hand and at the same time pull the non-drive crank arm toward yourself with your right hand. If there is lateral play then more preload or even a spacer is required.
The Shimano cranks are mistake proofed for assembly. The spline pattern won’t let you install them anything but 180 degrees apart. Also when did they add the safety tab? My 7800 cranks don’t have it.
Not maintenance related, but I would love a full review of this bike as it is one that I am considering buying. Reviews on it are a bit thin on the ground though. Maybe I could borrow yours, Ollie? 😉
#askGCNtech .. Hi Ollie, another informative video but it's got me thinking, could you use different sized crank arms to address leg length discrepancy? Is it a done thing and if not why not? Many thanks
I am so dissappointed I didn't buy a prime Orbea Orca! I have an Orca Aero from the same time, with orange details ofcourse, because the second tier carbon was all I could afford. But that Orca is such a beautiful bike :o
I bought a new 105 crankset to replace the stock RS510 that came with my bike (everything else on the bike is 105). I don't have an adjustable torque wrench (it is on my wish list), but is there any other way I can be certain I've tightened the bolts securely enough without over-tightening?
Absolutely great timing, great video! Got some grime that’s worked in there and I’ve been debating doing versus sending it to LBS! PS you’re hair looks great, don’t let the hairassment get to you!
hi guys great video i want to upgrade my FSA 50/34 175mm to a shimano 105 50/34 , in line with my 11speed 105 groupset. i believe this should be straight forward, of course with the different systems of uncoupling as shown in this video. also are they always sold as tri parts: non driveside crank arm + the driveside crankarm + the attached spindle any tips i can use please?
So ive undone the bolt on the non drive side crank, but the crank just wont come off, ive hit it with a wooden hammer but im afraid of breaking it, any advice?
Hi Guys! Can I have a question related to the orange Orca presented? Is this the factory color that can be configured through Myo or is it custom painted? Is that frame matte or glossy? I cannot figure out in these studio lights :) Thank you for your reply!
Hello GCN and community, I have recently destroyed my fork's thru axle thread. Did a bit of research and decided to fix it myself. I am planning to drill out the old thread, then tap and insert a new helicoil-ish one. The problem is after removing the threads, the carbon is exposed and I would need to tap on it to create a new thread for the helicoil. Do I then use red threadlocker or something like gorilla/loctite epoxy? Thank you in advance, RIDE ON!
I'm really tempted to try cranks at 90 degrees. I used to be an engine performance development engineer and I'm thinking of cross-plane crankshafts (on a big bang R1 for example). Curious about how it would go on a bicycle! One day I'll give it a go, when I can motivate myself :D
What you showed me in the video is definitely nothing like the mountain mountain bike I have I have a Malvern star but the problem is I I have a shredded left side crank arm I don't know if this is a correct words I'm supposed to put in here but I put it I tighten the pedals too much in a now I can't put my pedal on my left crank crank arm any more and I can't put petals on the left side crank arm is it easy to move a bike crank
Congratulations on ordering one - If I may ask, which one did u order n what paint scheme. I am trying to figure out a paint scheme for the sram force etap version. Post pictures on GCN once your bike arrives n share your thoughts on it. Cheers !
I rode the Tour of Flanders sportive last year, and early in the ride I was following a few other riders in the mist along a nice flat bike path, nothing special, just minding my own business. Then something caught my eye. The left side crank arm, of the rider in front of me, was hanging off his shoe, and was no longer attached to the bike. That was certainly a bit of a surprise, both to me, and I expect to him.
That happened to a friend of mine on her brand new bike. I checked my crank and found that the preload bolt had disappeared and the crank had worked itself off as far as the safety pin. I had torqued the screws up myself and when I replaced the BB - and they were still tight! How odd.
#askgcntech I’m currently restoring a 1980s Raleigh road bike but am having difficulty sourcing parts, I can’t seem to find a five speed chain anywhere. Do I need to find a five speed chain or can I use something like a modern shimano chain? Thanks
I was working on a 017 Schwinn Bike which has SR Suntour cranks and the spindle seems to be more similar to pp30 spindle. I initially loosened the left crank but was suppose to loosen the right drive side crank first. The axel itself on my spindle is actually held by two threaded barring holders. not a good idea to try to bang these types of cranksets out with a hammer. Haha Unthread it out, don't bang it out and mess up you axel!
Tip: if you forget to lift the little latch and it stops you wiggling off the LH crank arm, tap the crank back on again before you try to lift it, or it can jam. DAHIKT
No fancy tool needed for the plastic thing. You can use a pair of pliers and squeeze outward on them, or what I did, find a thin piece of metal to stick in there to turn it.
2:23 Are those tiny little ridges what's transferring the power? This can't be, it's normally something like a big square pin, I couldn't imagine those tiny ridges not being all ripped clean off the second power is applied to the pedal. Surely there is a more sturdy part to handle the torque? I managed to round off the square pins on my bike so there's no way those tiny ridge will handle any load.
That's called a spline. It looks like it's tapered as well, but yes, splines are extremely commonly used to transfer torque. In actual fact, I think splines are stronger than square tapers because on a square taper, the power tends to be applied only near the corners and that's what rounds them over.
I wish Oli had explained that well to stupid mechanic who did not tighten 2 bolts at Shimano drivetrain enough, I chewed the crank on the spindle and I pedaled back home more or less with one leg for 30 km... It was long time ago - since then, I started to do it myself. And I never bought Shimano again as it is so much easier to do it wrong than with SRAM. One big bolt and 50 NM - that's the simplicity I need.
Hello Team GCN : Can you confirm if this bike’s color METALLIC ORANGE as shown on Orbea’s website ? Ask as I like this colour & on the Orbea’s site, the metallic quality cannot be appreciated as in this video. Please confirm so I can order accordingly. Thks !
My god I can't remove the crank, it is seized.It is like 90percent out but the last bit of the driveside is not coming out. I struggled to take it out for hours and I think it stuck with the bottom bracket. Any solutions?
Synthetic lubricants are designed to be highly effective at reducing friction and wear. This means they are also very good at penetrating and adhering to surfaces, including your skin. Once on your skin, these lubricants can be difficult to remove and may cause irritation, dryness, or even allergic reactions in some individuals. Not much about safety in this video!
This is my first road ruclips.net/user/postUgkxMesz3KOGEmwmvyKQfLfrRSUXLFzfVHZA and I have taken it out a handful of times and so far it is exceeding all of my expectations. I didn’t want to break the bank on a first bike and the herd is a great option for getting a fast bike with reliable components. I plan on riding this bike for many years to come. Thank you Sava!
#askGCNtech What's up guys! I love the channel and I have found your videos very helpful on a number of different occasions. I have recently been looking into, and doing research on power meters as this will probably be my next upgrade. I have Ultegra Di2 8070 on my bike and I am wondering what would be the best route to go. I am looking at the Quarq DFOUR spider based power meter, as I know this can be used with Shimano chainrings. But will this be compatible with my Di2 and Hollowtech BB? Would I be better off just replacing my entire crankset/chainrings? The other option I have been looking at is the Stages Cycling crank based power meter. Which direction would you recommend going? Is one type more reliable than the other? I would really appreciate your input. Thank you!
Bicycle torque wrench 40 quid from Halfords will be OK for Shimano. You shouldn't really be doing up any bolt on your bike without one, especially if it's carbon. A wrench capable of 48Nm for the SRAM is a bit more pricey though (£60 from Toolstation).
@@jayay3881 Of course there are cheaper options out there although you do have to be careful about calibration. A park tool torque will set you back quite a bit though :)
Did you find this video helpful? What maintenance videos would you like us to make in the future? Let us know in the comments 👇
will all-purpose grease do? or it has a specific grease to use?
#askGCN
Cannondale cranks please
A DIY bike stand how-to video would be great! How to make a firm, reliable yet gentle clamp, in particular.
How to calibrate a torque wrench?
I'd like a video removing and installing shimano chainrings and also compatibility (larger/smaller rings) issues
Thank you, Ollie, for speaking slowly and distinctly. I was born and raised in New Jersey (USA) and I used to think we talked fast. You Tube videos have persuaded me otherwise. This one was a real treat.
I'm just having a good ole time imagining people installing the left side crank arm parallel to the right side and riding their bike with both feet circling in unison.
I'm cracking up right now 😂
😂 😂 😂 😂 😂
I did this by accident when putting it back on..... 😂😂😂
Look up power crank. It’s a system that literally lets you pedal like that. It’s ridiculous but hilarious to see. Super rare I would say
Bro I just did that shit because it broke while I was on my way to work and tried to fix it in a hurry. And now I can’t get it off😂
The hook on the parktool preload tool is actually for unhooking that retaining clip for the crank 👌
Beat me to it! I've just ordered that tool at the weekend having previously watched the Park Tools video on it.
Ollie, I should warn you that another well done bike maintenance video such as this one can only be a detriment to your career aspirations. It is well known in the corporate world that becoming known for mastering the details can hold you back in your climbing, your climbing of the corporate ladder that is. If you become too valuable to GCN as the "how to" guy you'll find more and more of those cycling trips around the world going to your colleagues as you stay there in the blustery UK wrenching on bikes in the studio. Take a look at Dan's ascent to the top and you'll get why you never want to get too good at what you're doing.
This is really just a long paragraph to make fun of Dan.
Thanks Ollie. I’ve always assumed removing the crank was very difficult. Over the winter I’m going to try it. Thanks.
If you don’t have the Shimano preload tool, you can also try with some pliers or scissors by putting them in and extending them (i.e. using the outside of the pliers to grip in the grooves). The cap should only require minimal force to turn, so it is quite doable.
Butter knife! Works great!
Great video and I wouldn't change a thing you said. The only addition I would make is just a word of caution. When putting your crankset back on, you'll of course, as he says, not push the drive side all the way against the frame because your chain is there. So you'll put the chain on one of the chain rings, and then make sure you finish pushing the chain ring side all the way in. I had an issue with chain rub a few weeks ago and couldn't figure it out to save my life. Turns out that when I had taken my cranks off for a good cleaning, I hadn't finished pushing the drive side all the way in and it was causing the chain rub. So just take your time, follow everything in the video, and make sure to clean and re lube everything as he says. Have a safe ride!
Just want to let everyone know about Shimano 105 r7000 chainrings in the event of replacement. You cannot use (without modification) the older 5800 series Shimano 105 chainrings on a Shimano 105 r7000 crank. The 5800 chainrings differ slightly from the newer r7000 rings, as there's a notch/cutout on the newer version's rings. And although they're both Shimano 105 offering the same bolt pattern and bcd measurements, 5800 series Shimano 105 chainrings *cannot* be put onto an r7000 crankset *without creating your own notch on the 5800 ring(s).* Best bet is to buy the exact same r7000 ring(s) for your particular r7000 crankset (same teeth amount is important too). And I'd *only* buy 5800 rings if I knew exactly what to do to make them fit properly on my r7000 crankset, as they do need to be modified.
However, if you own an older Shimano 105 5800 series crankset and want to replace those rings, you can use either series' rings, without modification.
NOTE: The above applies to Shimano Ultegra r8000 as well.
Source: I own both versions of 105 and have done the modification mentioned above successfully. Always buy the correct rings though if you can.
I'm swapping out my 5800 for the R7000 series crankset, i've heard mixed reports about the old 5800 derailleur not being compatible. Do you know if this is true?
SoCal LBS are full-up with repairs and maintenance, so vids like this are much appreciated.
Always My Favorite Cycling Channel!
Glad to hear that!
Are there others..?
Would love to watch the installation/removal of Campagnolo cranksets.
Fantastic that makes todays job so much easier. Changing to a FC-M5100-1 from FC-M7000-1.Aha!
Thanks. From Neville Cocking. Rode for Btitish team 1974. Cape to Pretoria. Ropport Tour.
This might be a bit advanced for me. I'm still trying to sort out how to inflate my tyres ...
That's very timely, Ollie. Thanks. I'm just waiting for the bike shop to get the pre-load tool in, and then I can install my replacement chainset. They said they should get it by tomorrow.
On Friday the temperature got up to 25C here in Ottawa, Canada, but this morning it snowed, less than six months after our last snowfall. Arghhhh!
I got by using a needle nose pliers, as I've misplaced the special tool...
@@panzerveps I already tried that, along with a knife blade. Neither worked. I didn't go at it too hard because I was afraid of stripping the contact surface on the pre-load cap.
Can you tell me how this stops squeeking?
Do you grease the bearings?
Should I Grease the entire shaft?
Should I oil the bearings?
How often this should be done?
Ollie you should have explained how to preload the bearings more carefully as the preload has big affect on the longevity of the bearings. The GXP crank should have a wave washer on the drive side and the washer acts as a spring which automatically adjusts the preload. As the Shimano preload is a manual adjustment it should be checked with a quick spin by gently flicking down the crank arm which should spin around 1.5 turns or so. It is also good to check the GXP preload the same way and if the crank arm doesn't move in a silky fashion I recommend to take out the wave washer and lightly hammer out the waves in the washer to reduce the preload.
I'd also recommend to check for lateral play in the crank arms by clasping the drive side crank arm against the chainstay with your left hand and at the same time pull the non-drive crank arm toward yourself with your right hand. If there is lateral play then more preload or even a spacer is required.
This is way easier than I thought it would be, I would rather do this than replace tires.
The Shimano cranks are mistake proofed for assembly. The spline pattern won’t let you install them anything but 180 degrees apart.
Also when did they add the safety tab? My 7800 cranks don’t have it.
Thanks Ollie, just worked in two bikes!
Bellissima bici e linea massima, di molta qualità e sempre valida
Can you do sram bb30 cranks next? I feel like that installation/removal is a bit more nuanced than GXP. Also DUB would be nice.
Not maintenance related, but I would love a full review of this bike as it is one that I am considering buying. Reviews on it are a bit thin on the ground though. Maybe I could borrow yours, Ollie? 😉
So clear and useful!
Does this work with any bike or just certain ones?
Great video - a perfect mixture of useful info and savage bike envy
And if you don‘t have a rubber/nylon mallet, use a piece of wood or hard plastic and a normal hammer. Light tap is enough normally.
Ok nice
This is exactly what I have planned to do tomorrow
what if you dont have a preload tool? is there a tool-box alternative?
My crank arm just fell off!!! WTH!!! Thanks for the roadside assistance! Lol! All seems good for now. Only 10 miles to go.
#askGCNtech .. Hi Ollie, another informative video but it's got me thinking, could you use different sized crank arms to address leg length discrepancy? Is it a done thing and if not why not? Many thanks
I am so dissappointed I didn't buy a prime Orbea Orca! I have an Orca Aero from the same time, with orange details ofcourse, because the second tier carbon was all I could afford. But that Orca is such a beautiful bike :o
What’s the best combo bottom bracket and crankset for Orbea Opal?
I bought a new 105 crankset to replace the stock RS510 that came with my bike (everything else on the bike is 105). I don't have an adjustable torque wrench (it is on my wish list), but is there any other way I can be certain I've tightened the bolts securely enough without over-tightening?
Nice Bike 🤘🏻😍
Absolutely great timing, great video! Got some grime that’s worked in there and I’ve been debating doing versus sending it to LBS!
PS you’re hair looks great, don’t let the hairassment get to you!
NIce haircut ollie :D
Hello, Is the way to disassemble fsa k-force carbon crank the same procedure as SRAM, isn't It?
If sidegrade a 53T do I need to mess with the front derailleur?
hi guys
great video
i want to upgrade my FSA 50/34 175mm to a shimano 105 50/34 , in line with my 11speed 105 groupset. i believe this should be straight forward, of course with the different systems of uncoupling as shown in this video.
also are they always sold as tri parts: non driveside crank arm + the driveside crankarm + the attached spindle
any tips i can use please?
So ive undone the bolt on the non drive side crank, but the crank just wont come off, ive hit it with a wooden hammer but im afraid of breaking it, any advice?
Remember to torque your crank bolt to 15nm and the spindle to 20nm or 25nm so it doesn't come off
Spider vs Direct mount crank, which is stiffer?
So spindles are permanent with the crank?
Chris Boardman 8.9c. The 2 you just did didn’t look like the FSA crank on the Boardman
Hi Guys! Can I have a question related to the orange Orca presented? Is this the factory color that can be configured through Myo or is it custom painted? Is that frame matte or glossy? I cannot figure out in these studio lights :) Thank you for your reply!
Hello GCN and community, I have recently destroyed my fork's thru axle thread. Did a bit of research and decided to fix it myself. I am planning to drill out the old thread, then tap and insert a new helicoil-ish one. The problem is after removing the threads, the carbon is exposed and I would need to tap on it to create a new thread for the helicoil. Do I then use red threadlocker or something like gorilla/loctite epoxy? Thank you in advance, RIDE ON!
Thanks for ur wisdom mate cheers.
I'm really tempted to try cranks at 90 degrees. I used to be an engine performance development engineer and I'm thinking of cross-plane crankshafts (on a big bang R1 for example). Curious about how it would go on a bicycle! One day I'll give it a go, when I can motivate myself :D
Go for it, just make sure 911 is on speed dial
Where can I buy a pair of crank arms in the UK? Everyone seems to only sell the crank set but they're expensive.
Could you do a video on cannondale bb30 please (I’m trying to install power2max spider)
bday very useful video thanks for that great chap.
What happens if a very hard mallet tap still doesn’t free the crank?
My shimano 105 crank arm doesn't have retaining bolts, just a big allen in the middle like the gxp
Ill love to have a work station like that
So if I clean and grease everything and put it back together might it stop my pressfit bb from creaking?
The creaking is from the BB (and its bearings) not the cranks.
Thanks a lot 😀
What you showed me in the video is definitely nothing like the mountain mountain bike I have I have a Malvern star but the problem is I I have a shredded left side crank arm I don't know if this is a correct words I'm supposed to put in here but I put it I tighten the pedals too much in a now I can't put my pedal on my left crank crank arm any more and I can't put petals on the left side crank arm is it easy to move a bike crank
Can't wait for my orbea orca to arrive
Congratulations on ordering one -
If I may ask, which one did u order n what paint scheme.
I am trying to figure out a paint scheme for the sram force etap version.
Post pictures on GCN once your bike arrives n share your thoughts on it.
Cheers !
Great video!
Thank you for video
I rode the Tour of Flanders sportive last year, and early in the ride I was following a few other riders in the mist along a nice flat bike path, nothing special, just minding my own business. Then something caught my eye. The left side crank arm, of the rider in front of me, was hanging off his shoe, and was no longer attached to the bike. That was certainly a bit of a surprise, both to me, and I expect to him.
That happened to a friend of mine on her brand new bike. I checked my crank and found that the preload bolt had disappeared and the crank had worked itself off as far as the safety pin. I had torqued the screws up myself and when I replaced the BB - and they were still tight! How odd.
#askgcntech I’m currently restoring a 1980s Raleigh road bike but am having difficulty sourcing parts, I can’t seem to find a five speed chain anywhere. Do I need to find a five speed chain or can I use something like a modern shimano chain? Thanks
Look for a KMC Z6- this is for 5/6/7 speed . I've used 7 speed chains also, with no problems.
For my next trick, I shall remove the crank
Rubber Hammer is a must have, or a Hammer wrapped in some old cloth, and dont use too much grease, Cause it will add more fiction to get it in
White Industries VBC would be great to see.
Make a video on rotor crank arms
Great video :)
I was working on a 017 Schwinn Bike which has SR Suntour cranks and the spindle seems to be more similar to pp30 spindle.
I initially loosened the left crank but was suppose to loosen the right drive side crank first.
The axel itself on my spindle is actually held by two threaded barring holders.
not a good idea to try to bang these types of cranksets out with a hammer. Haha
Unthread it out, don't bang it out and mess up you axel!
What Orbea is that?
Orbea Orca M30 2021
Those wheels 😍😍😍
Tip: if you forget to lift the little latch and it stops you wiggling off the LH crank arm, tap the crank back on again before you try to lift it, or it can jam. DAHIKT
#askGCNtech do you think buying a 105 power meter is worth it? Thanks (they cost 200£)
No fancy tool needed for the plastic thing. You can use a pair of pliers and squeeze outward on them, or what I did, find a thin piece of metal to stick in there to turn it.
2:23 Are those tiny little ridges what's transferring the power? This can't be, it's normally something like a big square pin, I couldn't imagine those tiny ridges not being all ripped clean off the second power is applied to the pedal. Surely there is a more sturdy part to handle the torque? I managed to round off the square pins on my bike so there's no way those tiny ridge will handle any load.
That's called a spline. It looks like it's tapered as well, but yes, splines are extremely commonly used to transfer torque. In actual fact, I think splines are stronger than square tapers because on a square taper, the power tends to be applied only near the corners and that's what rounds them over.
Is this the only color ?
Why aren't there more BB options out there? Got to get the number of options up to 50!
#Sustainability #SustainableTransport #ActiveLifestyle #Healthy #Health #HumanHealth #CleanEnergy #ZeroEmissions #NetZero
This is literally what I’m debating doing right now. Uncanny timing.
Probably a much cheaper system.
Me as well!
hate to be pedantic Oliver but those are retaining (pinch) screws on the shimano non drive side crank arm not retaining (pinch) bolts.
Nice
thx
How about FSA We K-Force?
I have a Walmart bike. I don't even have to screws at the start to remove the main nut bolt for the crank arm pedal...
I wish Oli had explained that well to stupid mechanic who did not tighten 2 bolts at Shimano drivetrain enough, I chewed the crank on the spindle and I pedaled back home more or less with one leg for 30 km... It was long time ago - since then, I started to do it myself. And I never bought Shimano again as it is so much easier to do it wrong than with SRAM. One big bolt and 50 NM - that's the simplicity I need.
Hello Team GCN :
Can you confirm if this bike’s color METALLIC ORANGE as shown on Orbea’s website ?
Ask as I like this colour & on the Orbea’s site, the metallic quality cannot be appreciated as in this video.
Please confirm so I can order accordingly.
Thks !
Campagnolo is a major brand, yet you rarely even mention them. This video is a prime example.
Not everyone has a bike like that with a very simple process 😂
My god I can't remove the crank, it is seized.It is like 90percent out but the last bit of the driveside is not coming out. I struggled to take it out for hours and I think it stuck with the bottom bracket. Any solutions?
try WD-40 product
Synthetic lubricants are designed to be highly effective at reducing friction and wear. This means they are also very good at penetrating and adhering to surfaces, including your skin. Once on your skin, these lubricants can be difficult to remove and may cause irritation, dryness, or even allergic reactions in some individuals. Not much about safety in this video!
This is my first road ruclips.net/user/postUgkxMesz3KOGEmwmvyKQfLfrRSUXLFzfVHZA and I have taken it out a handful of times and so far it is exceeding all of my expectations. I didn’t want to break the bank on a first bike and the herd is a great option for getting a fast bike with reliable components. I plan on riding this bike for many years to come. Thank you Sava!
#askGCNtech What's up guys! I love the channel and I have found your videos very helpful on a number of different occasions. I have recently been looking into, and doing research on power meters as this will probably be my next upgrade. I have Ultegra Di2 8070 on my bike and I am wondering what would be the best route to go. I am looking at the Quarq DFOUR spider based power meter, as I know this can be used with Shimano chainrings. But will this be compatible with my Di2 and Hollowtech BB? Would I be better off just replacing my entire crankset/chainrings? The other option I have been looking at is the Stages Cycling crank based power meter. Which direction would you recommend going? Is one type more reliable than the other? I would really appreciate your input. Thank you!
FSA please!
Remember to check your cranks BCD
yes if you're swapping chainrings
@@gcntech forgot to say that , cheers
@@gcntech or if your swapping cranks and keeping your old chainrings and fitting them to your new cranks
@@alexandertm5362 good to know. That’s what I’m considering doing for my knee.
@@Kimberly_Sparkleshave you got 170mm on?
Quicklink for FTW, chain off and out the way 😉
I dont understand the point of pointing out the hole on the non-drive side as you removed the crank but you didn't mention it when replacing it.
Doesn't involve any really expensive tools, like a torque wrench?
Bicycle torque wrench 40 quid from Halfords will be OK for Shimano. You shouldn't really be doing up any bolt on your bike without one, especially if it's carbon. A wrench capable of 48Nm for the SRAM is a bit more pricey though (£60 from Toolstation).
@@jayay3881 Of course there are cheaper options out there although you do have to be careful about calibration. A park tool torque will set you back quite a bit though :)
Nice fix for a bike no one has 😅🤦