I think you're way past this point by now, but just in case.... Connelly's Machine Tool Reconditioning discusses scraping and machine (re)building in pretty extensive detail, including inspection and tracking progress. Not a cheap book though. Richard King also posts on various forums with scraping advice, especially his 3 rules (copied below). And will sell you a training video as well. Though I found the video to focus way too much on using a Biax power scraper. I understand that it's aimed at a business that can afford the high cost of those, but it did mean a lot of wasted time for the home gamer. Richard King's rules 1. Scrape individual scrape marks - meaning push forward and cut a low spot and as you slide the scraper blade back move sideways to get a gap and no scrape, then push forward and get another scrape or low spot. Use this the across the whole width of the part. AT 45 Degree or diagonal to the length of the part. If you don't separate the scrape marks you dig a hole where next time you blue up no blue. The next scrape after you blue up is at 90 degrees to the last one to get a checkerboard look. 2. Scrape individual lines of scraping marks (number 1) separate the next line by approx 1/8". If you let the 2nd line touch the first line. If you don't separate you will get long vertical openings or holes next time you blue up. 3. Check the depth of the scrape mark. Put a .00005" or .0001" indicator on a height gage and set the the gage on the part (not on a surface plate next to the part) and move the stem of the indicator from a low spot and measure the height of the high or blue spot. Minimum of .0002"and a Max of .001" - average .0004 to ,0005". 4. When you rub the part on the plate 10 seconds then pivot or hinge the part it should rotate at 30% from the ends. That's when it's flat.
Cool project man, looking forward to seeing how it ends up!
Awesome bro 😂🎉
I think you're way past this point by now, but just in case....
Connelly's Machine Tool Reconditioning discusses scraping and machine (re)building in pretty extensive detail, including inspection and tracking progress. Not a cheap book though.
Richard King also posts on various forums with scraping advice, especially his 3 rules (copied below). And will sell you a training video as well. Though I found the video to focus way too much on using a Biax power scraper. I understand that it's aimed at a business that can afford the high cost of those, but it did mean a lot of wasted time for the home gamer.
Richard King's rules
1. Scrape individual scrape marks - meaning push forward and cut a low spot and as you slide the scraper blade back move sideways to get a gap and no scrape, then push forward and get another scrape or low spot. Use this the across the whole width of the part. AT 45 Degree or diagonal to the length of the part. If you don't separate the scrape marks you dig a hole where next time you blue up no blue. The next scrape after you blue up is at 90 degrees to the last one to get a checkerboard look.
2. Scrape individual lines of scraping marks (number 1) separate the next line by approx 1/8". If you let the 2nd line touch the first line. If you don't separate you will get long vertical openings or holes next time you blue up.
3. Check the depth of the scrape mark. Put a .00005" or .0001" indicator on a height gage and set the the gage on the part (not on a surface plate next to the part) and move the stem of the indicator from a low spot and measure the height of the high or blue spot. Minimum of .0002"and a Max of .001" - average .0004 to ,0005".
4. When you rub the part on the plate 10 seconds then pivot or hinge the part it should rotate at 30% from the ends. That's when it's flat.