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i remember reading gingery book 2 in the eighties when i was doing my millwright training. Unfortunately people don't understand that it is not the destination (final product: the lathe) as it is the journey (what you learn on the way). Great job you are doing .

Schools, universities etc are just indoctrination camps, what did our ancestors do before they were setup. Either you have an aptitude for something or you don't, having a go and practice is the only way to find out.

I'm at the tail end of my first engine model build, it's a 7 cylinder radial engine. Just a representational model, not a replica. I'm making it out of cardboard & wood. I did a couple of pre-apprenticeship courses but never got an apprenticeship. "If you have a go, it's amazing what you find you can do" Thanks Mate, I really needed to hear that. I'll keep that in mind in my journey.

your having a go at this, so I can enjoy watching it(because no shed to work on something big), and I can have a go at something smaller

Great video! I’m going to recommend it to all would-be-Gingery-lathe-aspirants from now on 👍

Thanks for sharing the “why”. Incredibly impressed by the progress you’ve made 👍

Looking good sir. Very nice work. I think you are braver than me building a lathe like that.

Thanks for this review. Looking forward to the permanent spindle.

It has been fun watching this project progress. Thanks for bringing us along.

Shapers ate nice to have in a small shop. I don’t use my 7" Atlas very often, but it is good for what it does.

Have a go...that's the main thing. Better than sitting on the couch..... Great channel Regards Kevin(Taranaki)

Totally agree. Always have a go

My grandpa always said, "of you fall and fall on your face, you're still moving forward, so always at least try"

A one eighth inch drill bit is closer to 3.3mm (3.17mm) Slightly oversize probably better than slightly undersized, 70% thread engagement isn't a lot weaker than 100% but takes about half the power to tap (so half the torque with much less chance of breaking taps)

Looks like you need to add some silicon to your aluminum to get better flow, also could use better degassing and pouring/sprue methods.

Very nice work, indeed. To make a machine like that from scratch, take skill. Good job

A man pulls himself up by the bootstraps.

So much like a lathe so quickly! Nice progress!

Morning coffee and watching Mr Allen's project proceed. It's going to be a good day. 😂

Yay! The Have a Go video has dropped!

Very nice video. Great job man. I need to get into castings.

It's a good idea to always use some lube when tapping aluminium, even kitchen oil or lard is better than nothing. (lard is recommended for machining copper) Also, drill the holes correct size, any 'squeak or graunching is usually due to hole being slightly small or tap blunted. Taps can be sharpened using Dremel type grinding points although I find it best to use them in a cheap pin chuck. Just go along the ground section clearance without changing angles (pretty easy with only a little practice). I pretty much only ever use HSS on aluminium as it's much easier to grind relief angles. Only problem with sand castings is you may get some sand grains trapped in surface that buggers up tool making re-sharpening necessary. (it was a problem when I was in factory in 70's, some things never change) At least it's not as bad as finding a partially melted centre drill in a cast iron part, more common than anyone imagines when you get cheapest foundry you can find (and makes re-grinding brazed carbide tools a PITA, no angle grinders or replaceable tips for us back then The 'stores' did keep white spirit in stock though as we did sand cast aluminum at least a few times a week (booking out half gallon, store-man always wanted to know how long the run was, almost like he was paying for it , even worse with 'shop rags' had to bring in ten to get new 10🙄) Kerosene works equally well although I've been using old engine oil 'thinned down' with some diesel for years (particularly since retirement, things got expensive while I wasn't looking) Diesel from gas station pump is way cheaper than kerosene around here, about $4.50 gallon instead of close to $17.50 gallon 'lamp oil'- (central Florida 2023, haven't checked recently) Nice to see you keeping up the Kiwi tradition of 'shed engineering'

Very nice work sir. You impressed me so much with the effort and attention to detail you put into this. Great video

Another Gingery lathe builder… very nice! These may be rudimentary, but they are a good start for a long term project (or rather, series of projects) that allows anyone to make a shop out of common things and basic tools, if one has the time, skills and technical know how (or learn it along the way) to get it all done. I wish you good luck and success.

Impressed you got the holes right. Have just done the same thing and had to do a bit of filing...

Great job

I think I kind of do want to know how long your various operations took. The few Gingery lathe build series I have found on youtube show the build and that’s about the end of it. I look forward to you showing us all kinds of operations with the finished product.

Congrats on the new tailstock. Will you be making a taper in the end of the quill? I recently made a new one for my mini lathe and having a morse taper reamer was very helpful with my flexible boring bar. Also does the gingery book use a simple screw into the quill to lock it? I've had a few old lathes like that and they were nowhere near as good as having a proper quill lock that draws two pieces of metal together against the shaft.... Trying to think of what those are called.... Not a very useful comment!

I use a few drops of alcohol with gummy aluminum. It helps keep it from sticking to the cutters so bad and usually does wonders for the surface finish.

Can you talk a bit louder great video

I think you're way past this point by now, but just in case.... Connelly's Machine Tool Reconditioning discusses scraping and machine (re)building in pretty extensive detail, including inspection and tracking progress. Not a cheap book though. Richard King also posts on various forums with scraping advice, especially his 3 rules (copied below). And will sell you a training video as well. Though I found the video to focus way too much on using a Biax power scraper. I understand that it's aimed at a business that can afford the high cost of those, but it did mean a lot of wasted time for the home gamer. Richard King's rules 1. Scrape individual scrape marks - meaning push forward and cut a low spot and as you slide the scraper blade back move sideways to get a gap and no scrape, then push forward and get another scrape or low spot. Use this the across the whole width of the part. AT 45 Degree or diagonal to the length of the part. If you don't separate the scrape marks you dig a hole where next time you blue up no blue. The next scrape after you blue up is at 90 degrees to the last one to get a checkerboard look. 2. Scrape individual lines of scraping marks (number 1) separate the next line by approx 1/8". If you let the 2nd line touch the first line. If you don't separate you will get long vertical openings or holes next time you blue up. 3. Check the depth of the scrape mark. Put a .00005" or .0001" indicator on a height gage and set the the gage on the part (not on a surface plate next to the part) and move the stem of the indicator from a low spot and measure the height of the high or blue spot. Minimum of .0002"and a Max of .001" - average .0004 to ,0005". 4. When you rub the part on the plate 10 seconds then pivot or hinge the part it should rotate at 30% from the ends. That's when it's flat.

This is acceptable if you need no more precision than 0.05-0.1 mm. But it is lower than the lowest precision class equipment.

Getting down to the short end of the list for finishing the lathe. Glad to see it's coming together nicely.

I think “DIY” is the closest American equivalent I can think of. Nice work! ✨

Wow! Another so quick!

I have already forgotten. Do you have a 3 jaw chuck too?

Nice bit of fixturing in the vise with the wooden block.

Wow, the videos are coming fast! Nice!

Turned out great

Nice one Allen. That's much better now it's running reasonably concentric. Have you clocked it in to see how much runout it has now?

Great work, glad to see things coming together!

When Gingry wrote that book, there wasn't Amazon or the internet to get stuff from. Making do, or getting by, are common expressions here in America.

An upgrade to the eye chrometer for indicating is to get a piece of plastic or wood dowel rod and put it in the tool post. Then run it up close to the part and dial it in that way. Itsmuxh easier to see with the dowel rod close to it than just eyeballing in the open. Great video as always Sir.

Thanks for sharing these, Allen. I'm going back and starting from the first video. I'm looking forward to enjoying the whole process with you.

These videos are great. Thank you so much for sharing your project with the world. I've had fantasies of building a Gingery style lathe since I was in college in the late 80s, working through school as a shop tech in the Industrial Design machine shop. Back then, I had to order Gingery's books from an obscure technical publisher. These days I've got a 1950s 10" Atlas that I've re-built, so it's hard to justify the effort of making one from scratch, but I learned so much reading those books. I did build a foundry back in the 90s, parts of which I still use today. Keep up the great work!

Snappy title. Makes a person curious to click it.

Ooh, nice! It’s Christmas again, and you got a shiny new 4 jaw chuck!

cool!!! Use HHS bits its far better for small lathes

I daydream about attempting some Gingery based machines too. I haven’t committed a dime in the direction of starting, though. I daydream about casting these machines in iron.