I bought a 30 foot camper and was in the market for a sway control when I came across this equalizer hitch at a rummage sale for $50 bucks. The guy told me that he could never get it to work right and went with a different style. I looked up the directions because it came with none, installed it myself and it works perfectly. 3 years later and it still works great. It is noisy which is a little disconcerting when backing up, but other that it works great. I've touched it up a couple times each season to keep it looking good, and it still performs flawlessly. I would recommend this hitch to anyone looking into a sway control/weight distributing hitch. Thank you!
We love to hear success stories like this about the Equal-i-zer hitch. Thanks for the endorsement! If anyone (like the first owner of this hitch) is having trouble getting their Equal-i-zer hitch set up or using it, please contact our customer support team and work with them to get it working well for you. You can reach them at 800-478-5578 or support@equalizerhitch.com. Also, follow the regular maintenance section in the owner’s manual to help reduce some of this noise when backing. Keeping the head lubricated properly will usually eliminate the noise.
just purchased the 10k one for my truck had the local camping world install it for me at my fathers request .. he doesnt like me to work on things such as this anyways took it for a 20 minute drive down the interstate.. it was a world of difference .. only time will tell if it was a good investment but the 20 minute ride was great got to 75 mph with no problems didnt even realize i was traveling that fast .. before i had trouble at 60-65 very little sway thanks for a great product
Leslie B, To correctly choose a hitch model that will meet your needs, you need to have two more weights - the tongue weight of the trailer, and the weight of any cargo that will be carried in the tow vehicle. You can use the "Find Your Hitch Size" page on our website which has a helpful calculator and a description of each of these components and how to determine them. www.equalizerhitch.com/find-your-hitch-size We recommend that you go through the calculator, and then consult with a qualified Equal-i-zer hitch dealer about your setup. You can of course get in touch with our customer support team at 800-478-5578 or Support@EqualizerHitch.com if you need more assistance. Good luck!
Leslie B, Running your numbers through the calculator shows that you will probably be fine with a 12K model. However, your tongue and cargo weight could push that need to a 14K. If you are regularly carrying 600+ lbs. in the truck and are at the 1,000 lb. range on your tongue, you might consider going up to the 14K model. You also want to pay attention to the rear axle rating of the truck, and the tow ratings of your receiver hitch to make sure these are not being exceeded.
A local dealership can also be a reliable source to help you determine which model will be best for you. You can find a dealer near you using our Dealer Locator: www.equalizerhitch.com/find-a-dealer You are also welcome to contact our Customer Support team at 800-478-5578 or Support@EqualizerHitch.com, and they can help you locate a dealer near you, or answer questions about which model would be best.
5:08 Final Adjustment 6:03 Remeasure and compare. 6:20 Best when FRONT is about the same wheel well height as when no trailer was connected and REAR a little lower as when no trailer was connected.
One thing the video does not address but that I picked up on after the fact watching the maintenance part is this. The part of the hitch head that the spring arms sleeve into are secured by bolts that are painted in place. I couldn't get the spring arms to open wide enough to fit onto the L brackets. Had to loosen the nut on the underside of one so I could use the arm to rotate the receiver part of the head to get one arm into place. After towing for one day I'm thinking I need to adjust the other side so that there isn't so much torque on the arms. It took everything I had plus the snap up tool to get the one arm into place. I'm guessing that the arms aren't evenly balance due to this. Head should have come with the recievers loosened and addressed in the video. Overall happy with the towing experience so far.
+Tom Lundquist, We're so glad that you're happy with the towing experience, and thanks for the comment! The socket bolts come from the factory torqued to the maximum recommended amount as part of the assembly process. As you have found, sometimes it is necessary to loosen them slightly, especially with a brand new hitch, to be able to move the arms. It is for the best because tighter bolts means better sway control overall. Socket bolts should be torqued to somewhere between a minimum of 60 ft-lb and a maximum of 100 ft-lb. The trick is to keep them as tight as you can for the best sway control, but loose enough that you can move them to hitch and unhitch. As you use the hitch you will see over time that the arms become easier to move. Keeping the sockets and head properly greased can also help. See the owner's manual here: www.equalizerhitch.com/manuals-guides/manuals/ Having the socket bolts tightened to a slightly different torque is not a problem. Both sockets work together, meaning, as the trailer turns or moves both sockets are acted on at the same time, so you're looking at the sum-total effect of the two, not each individually. Of course, it is best if there is not an extreme difference between them.
Mike, “slightly” depends on your towing setup. With a lighter tongue weight and a larger pickup, it may drop less than 1”. A heavier tongue weight and tow vehicle with a softer suspension may drop it several inches. “Ideal” is to follow the setup instructions in the Equal-i-zer Owner’s Manual, which you can download from EqualizerHitch . com under “Equal-i-zer Support.” You can also call our customer service (800) 478-5578 for help M-F, 8am - 5pm.
I just bought a New camper, it actaully weighs about 300 lbs lighter than previous one. I am using the same hitch setup. I am having a lot of jerking when appling and releasing the brakes, especially when releasing brake pedal. Brakes checked on New camper and look fine. Any ideas?
Mike Newsome, Sorry, we don't have any ideas for you without more specific details. At first glance it is unlikely anything to do with the hitch, unless something is loose that should not be. Follow the owner's manual and make sure everything is torqued to the proper specs. You can download it here if you don't already have one: www.equalizerhitch.com/Equal-i-zer%20Support/installinstructions.php Best of luck getting to the bottom of it!
Noticed in your manual you do not mention measuring from the ground to the wheel well on the rear axle. I installed the hitch according to directions in the manual and the final setup has my front measurement where it was unloaded, but my rear is squatting enough that the trailer is no longer level. I imagine I can move the head up on the shank but I wondering if that is the right approach. I question not having more weight transferred to the front axle. It seems if the front measurement is in the same position as it was unloaded I have not actually transferred any weight to the front.
+Russ Nichols, thanks for the question! If you have followed the steps in the owner's manual, and you have the same measurement at the front after engaging the spring arms as your baseline without the trailer coupled, then you should be getting pretty good weight distribution. Otherwise, the added weight at the hitch would be raising the front of your vehicle. For example, if unloaded is 30", coupled with no WD is 31", and coupled with WD is again 30", then you're getting 100% WD, meaning that the weight on the front axle is 100% of what it was without a trailer coupled. You should never exceed 100%. The weight you are transferring is not the added weight of the trailer, it is the weight that you would have otherwise lost at the front due to the teeter-totter effect of adding the trailer to the rear of the tow vehicle. Here is a good video that discusses this concept: ruclips.net/video/XBZu39pQ8Gg/видео.htmlm13s It is fine to have the rear of the tow vehicle squat some. You are adding a significant amount of weight from the trailer's tongue weight, and you should expect the rear axle of the tow vehicle to carry that weight. This is good, because you need more weight and traction on the rear axle to help control the trailer as you tow it. The only time this is a problem is if you are still exceeding the rear axle weight rating, even with the hitch set up for maximum (100%) weight distribution. As far as the trailer goes, if it is more than 1-1/2" out of level front to back even with 100% weight distribution (meaning all the way back to the baseline weight/measurement at the front), moving the hitch head higher is a good next step. Be sure to go through the weight distribution setup process again, as raising the head will decrease the weight distribution, assuming you keep the same number of spacer washers and same L-bracket position. As always, if you have any questions about your setup, get in touch with our customer support team at 800-478-5578 or Support@EqualizerHitch.com.
Your hitch head appears to be at an angle where the top appears to be leaning towards the trailer. During the introduction, it appears to be plumb. It is designed to have this angle or should it be plumb verticle?
How low should the sway bar brackets on the trailer be? Do i need to adjust the sway control brackets at the hitch? What determines the amount of washers controlling angle? What is the torque of the bolts?
Thanks for your great questions. Some of the answers will differ, depending on your hitch model number. We would love for you to call or email us so we can help!
I Have a pretty significant bend in the spring arms after getting the front of the truck back to original height. If I remove washers I lose WD. If I lower L brackets I lose WD. All the nice promo videos show the spring arms pretty much parallel to the A frame. Not mine. Any Issues?
That should be fine. If you do want to change it to be more parallel, you can lower the brackets and add a washer (or two) to compensate for the WD. But, if there aren't any towing performance issues, I'd probably leave it as it is!
I believe mine is set up correctly, I recently went to a larger trailer 600# tongue weight dry compared to the old one with 450# dry, do I need to go up from my 600# bars to 1000# bars when I load the trailer?
The ratings for the 6K specify a maximum of 600 lb tongue weight. That means any gross (includes trailer, propane, water, gear, etc.) tongue weight UP TO 600 lb is acceptable, but you should not exceed that. If you never exceed 600 lb with your new trailer fully loaded, you should be fine. However, if there are times that you do exceed 600 lb, you should move up to the 10K hitch model. If you need to up size, get in touch with our customer support team at 800-478-5578 or support@equalizerhitch.com, and they can help you figure out which new equipment you need.
Not sure if you still answer questions as this is old video can bracket be put further back then 32 in my trailer has lots of stuff in the way around that area
Great question, thanks for asking! No, the sway control brackets should not be mounted farther than 32” back from the center of the coupler because in a turn, the outside spring arm slides forward on the bracket. However, the brackets can be moved forward up to 27” back from the coupler. Hopefully with that range of adjustability you can find a position that works for your setup. Good luck, and safe towing!
You've got a few options, you could mount the brackets at 24", but the bars would be pretty stiff. There is also the e2 round bar hitch from Fastway Trailer Products, which mounts between 24" and 27" back from the trailer frame.
+Carie Voss, Nope. That is one of the awesome benefits of towing with an Equal-i-zer hitch. You do not need to unhook the bars to go through tight turns or to back up. Great question, thanks for asking!
+Gustavo Orozco, The "snapping metal sound" you are hearing is the sound of the spring arms overcoming the friction that is holding them in place. This is a very common occurrence with an Equal-i-zer hitch, and nothing to be worried about. In fact, it is a good sign that you have strong friction in place to resist sway. Making sure to lubricate the hitch head as shown in the owner's manual is the best way to reduce this noise. The manual can be downloaded here: www.equalizerhitch.com/manuals-and-guides If you still have concerns, please contact our customer support staff at 800-478-5578 or Support@EqualizerHitch.com.
Equal-i-zer Hitch one other thing ive done the measuring and adjusting but for some reason my rear keeps dropping as if the weight is heavy and i just dont get it ..new shocks ive put but it drags after 25 miles of driving it...
+Gustavo Orozco, Please give our customer support team a call at 800-478-5578. They can go through the details of your setup with you, and help find a solution for you much more efficiently in person. They are available M-F, 8:00 AM to 5:00 PM Mountain time.
i know these hitches make noise, but should it actually send a shockwave through my truck during low speed turns? I'm wondering if my dealership did not install properly, I can never come close to placing the arms on without the bar and have to use all my strength to remove them even after raising the vehicle.
Dale Held, Yes, all hitches are kind of noisy sometimes. Well...lots of things about towing are noisy if you think about it - suspension, slide outs, jack (electric), generator... No. you should not be feeling a "shockwave" through the truck, although you can feel vibrations more than you would expect because the hitch and receiver on your tow vehicle are bolted directly to the frame of the truck, so the sensation you do get transfers very efficiently from the hitch to the cab. We understand that this can sometimes be unsettling because usually we associate noise while driving as a bad thing, or something wrong with the car. However, in this case, it's actually a good sign telling you that your sway control is working well. Here are a couple of things you can do to minimize the noise: - Make sure you keep the hitch head lubricated with a good multi-purpose grease. We recommend the Equal-i-zer high performance lubricant: www.equalizerhitch.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=75&product_id=101 There are instructions for doing this in the Equal-i-zer hitch owner's manual here: www.equalizerhitch.com/Equal-i-zer%20Support/installinstructions.php It's pretty easy to do, and will cut out most, if not all, of the noise. - Get a set of Sway Bracket Jackets from a dealer in your neck of the woods: www.equalizerhitch.com/Where%20to%20Buy/index.php These are designed to go on the L-bracket of the hitch, and they will help reduce the noise as well if greasing the head doesn't take it all out. - Lastly, double check your set up for proper weight distribution. From your description, it sounds like you've got it set up to give you a lot - which may be just right for your particular rig. But there might be some room to dial it back a notch, and that would make getting your bars on easier, as long as you're not sacrificing performance and safety to do it. Instructions for checking this are also found in the owner's manual. You're always welcome to call in or email one of our awesome customer support gurus at 800-478-5578 or Support@EqualizerHitch.com. Safe towing!
+Gustavo Orozco, The "snapping metal sound" you are hearing is the sound of the spring arms overcoming the friction that is holding them in place. This is a very common occurrence with an Equal-i-zer hitch, and nothing to be worried about. In fact, it is a good sign that you have strong friction in place to resist sway. Making sure to lubricate the hitch head as shown in the owner's manual is the best way to reduce this noise. The manual can be downloaded here: www.equalizerhitch.com/manuals-and-guides If you still have concerns, please contact our customer support staff at 800-478-5578 or Support@EqualizerHitch.com.
craig strom, We need a little more detail to be able to help. Are you saying that we use the nuts incorrectly on the video, or do you mean that your hitch needs longer bolts and that the L-bracket nuts are not properly used?
Craig: if you look at the video time line at 5:02 you can see that the the bolt the nylon lock nuts on the L bracket are tightened down on do not extend through the nut. It does appear on the video that longer bolts on the L bracket are needed so that they extent through the lock nut.
I believe the brackets weren’t properly installed. He had a wrench on both sides tighten down the frame clamp. Mine the bolt heads are recessed into those brackets then the L brackets sit flush. Appears that the bolt heads are sticking out causing the L bracket to not sit flush with the brackets. Also Equal-I-zer how far out should the torsion arms stick out past the L pin? I just installed mine at 31”s away and the arms stick out between 3 1/2” and 4”. Is that enough room to pivot and not fall out on sharp turns? I’ve always used a f450 dump truck to tow my camper and never needed to use this but the camp site I’m going to this weekend I will not be able to maneuver that truck around into my spot.
This video shows the installation of an older model of link plate (frame bracket) that we used to produce. The newer design uses the recessed bolts for the outside link plate. Both designs work well. 31” back from the coupler will work great. The maximum for an Equal-i-zer hitch is 32”. As long as you have at least 3” of spring arm past the center of the sway control bracket, you will be fine. Thanks for towing with an Equal-i-zer hitch, and thanks for watching!
Yes. You need to find a parking lot, or even in the street, where the truck and trailer are on the same plane. It doesn’t need to be perfectly level, just close, but it needs to be flat. If not, it will effect the way the weight distribution is set up.
Thank you for your question. Make sure that your brackets are properly torqued to the correct torque value. Also, having the bars rest flat on the brackets will help as well.
Mike StClair, There really is no "ideal." Every setup is different based on your tow vehicle and trailer, and how they interact with each other. All this means is that when you are hitched up, the rear wheel measurement should be lower, showing that you are carrying more weight on the rear axle that when you were unloaded. This is good. You want to carry more weight there to hold your tow vehicle to the road better when you're towing. The thing you want to make sure of is that you don't have the same or less weight (which would show up as a higher measurement), because that means your hitch is distributing too much weight, and that is not good.
Tom Michaelson, We need more detail! Cut two inches off what? If you're referring to the adjustable shank (stinger), probably not. We recommend that you do not modify the hitch in any way, and doing so may void your warranty. However, you could contact our Customer Support guys and go into detail with them. 800-478-5578 or email Support@EqualizerHitch.com.
+jet0577, You can find a parts breakdown with the details of the hardware sizes in the owner's manuals on our website here: www.equalizerhitch.com/manuals-and-guides If you need more than that, get in touch with one of our Customer Support staff at 800-478-5578 or support@equalizerhitch.com Thanks for asking!
Any brand or model of rear axle air bags would be factored in the same way when used with a weight distribution hitch. Inflate the air bags to the pressure you expect to tow with. Then, set up your weight distribution hitch based on the weights/measurements you have with the tow vehicle and trailer at that point. After setup, inflating the air bags will decrease weight distribution, and deflating them will increase weight distribution. Make minor adjustments to the air pressure and weight distribution setup to get the ride you want and proper weight distribution from the hitch.
I bought a 30 foot camper and was in the market for a sway control when I came across this equalizer hitch at a rummage sale for $50 bucks. The guy told me that he could never get it to work right and went with a different style. I looked up the directions because it came with none, installed it myself and it works perfectly. 3 years later and it still works great. It is noisy which is a little disconcerting when backing up, but other that it works great. I've touched it up a couple times each season to keep it looking good, and it still performs flawlessly. I would recommend this hitch to anyone looking into a sway control/weight distributing hitch. Thank you!
We love to hear success stories like this about the Equal-i-zer hitch. Thanks for the endorsement!
If anyone (like the first owner of this hitch) is having trouble getting their Equal-i-zer hitch set up or using it, please contact our customer support team and work with them to get it working well for you. You can reach them at 800-478-5578 or support@equalizerhitch.com. Also, follow the regular maintenance section in the owner’s manual to help reduce some of this noise when backing. Keeping the head lubricated properly will usually eliminate the noise.
just purchased the 10k one for my truck had the local camping world install it for me at my fathers request .. he doesnt like me to work on things such as this anyways took it for a 20 minute drive down the interstate.. it was a world of difference .. only time will tell if it was a good investment but the 20 minute ride was great got to 75 mph with no problems didnt even realize i was traveling that fast .. before i had trouble at 60-65 very little sway thanks for a great product
Glad to hear you're enjoying your hitch! Thanks for buying and safe travels!
I have this hitch on a 30' travel trailer towing with an ecoboost 1/2 tom. Works great!
+Jimmy Ray,
Glad to hear it. Thanks for spreading the word!
Equal-i-zer Hitch I meant to say 1/2 ton f150 ecoboost. This hitch is great. Drives perfect.
Finally picked up a hitch today. Really looking forward to installing it and going on a trip.
+105893655498065943162,
Thanks for choosing an Equal-i-zer hitch! Let us know how it goes.
Leslie B,
To correctly choose a hitch model that will meet your needs, you need to have two more weights - the tongue weight of the trailer, and the weight of any cargo that will be carried in the tow vehicle. You can use the "Find Your Hitch Size" page on our website which has a helpful calculator and a description of each of these components and how to determine them. www.equalizerhitch.com/find-your-hitch-size
We recommend that you go through the calculator, and then consult with a qualified Equal-i-zer hitch dealer about your setup. You can of course get in touch with our customer support team at 800-478-5578 or Support@EqualizerHitch.com if you need more assistance.
Good luck!
Leslie B,
Running your numbers through the calculator shows that you will probably be fine with a 12K model. However, your tongue and cargo weight could push that need to a 14K. If you are regularly carrying 600+ lbs. in the truck and are at the 1,000 lb. range on your tongue, you might consider going up to the 14K model.
You also want to pay attention to the rear axle rating of the truck, and the tow ratings of your receiver hitch to make sure these are not being exceeded.
A local dealership can also be a reliable source to help you determine which model will be best for you.
You can find a dealer near you using our Dealer Locator: www.equalizerhitch.com/find-a-dealer
You are also welcome to contact our Customer Support team at 800-478-5578 or Support@EqualizerHitch.com, and they can help you locate a dealer near you, or answer questions about which model would be best.
Leslie B,
You're welcome! Thanks for trusting the Equal-i-zer hitch. Best of luck, and safe towing!
The only hitch we sell. None better for the price!
5:08 Final Adjustment
6:03 Remeasure and compare.
6:20 Best when FRONT is about the same wheel well height as when no trailer was connected and REAR a little lower as when no trailer was connected.
Thanks for watching!
One thing the video does not address but that I picked up on after the fact watching the maintenance part is this. The part of the hitch head that the spring arms sleeve into are secured by bolts that are painted in place. I couldn't get the spring arms to open wide enough to fit onto the L brackets. Had to loosen the nut on the underside of one so I could use the arm to rotate the receiver part of the head to get one arm into place. After towing for one day I'm thinking I need to adjust the other side so that there isn't so much torque on the arms. It took everything I had plus the snap up tool to get the one arm into place. I'm guessing that the arms aren't evenly balance due to this. Head should have come with the recievers loosened and addressed in the video. Overall happy with the towing experience so far.
+Tom Lundquist,
We're so glad that you're happy with the towing experience, and thanks for the comment!
The socket bolts come from the factory torqued to the maximum recommended amount as part of the assembly process. As you have found, sometimes it is necessary to loosen them slightly, especially with a brand new hitch, to be able to move the arms. It is for the best because tighter bolts means better sway control overall.
Socket bolts should be torqued to somewhere between a minimum of 60 ft-lb and a maximum of 100 ft-lb. The trick is to keep them as tight as you can for the best sway control, but loose enough that you can move them to hitch and unhitch. As you use the hitch you will see over time that the arms become easier to move. Keeping the sockets and head properly greased can also help. See the owner's manual here: www.equalizerhitch.com/manuals-guides/manuals/
Having the socket bolts tightened to a slightly different torque is not a problem. Both sockets work together, meaning, as the trailer turns or moves both sockets are acted on at the same time, so you're looking at the sum-total effect of the two, not each individually. Of course, it is best if there is not an extreme difference between them.
Great Video, Sharing with our online community in our educational videos section. Thanks so much.
You're welcome! Thank you for sharing it.
Mister hitch
Mike, “slightly” depends on your towing setup. With a lighter tongue weight and a larger pickup, it may drop less than 1”. A heavier tongue weight and tow vehicle with a softer suspension may drop it several inches.
“Ideal” is to follow the setup instructions in the Equal-i-zer Owner’s Manual, which you can download from EqualizerHitch . com under “Equal-i-zer Support.”
You can also call our customer service (800) 478-5578 for help M-F, 8am - 5pm.
I just bought a New camper, it actaully weighs about 300 lbs lighter than previous one. I am using the same hitch setup. I am having a lot of jerking when appling and releasing the brakes, especially when releasing brake pedal. Brakes checked on New camper and look fine. Any ideas?
Mike Newsome,
Sorry, we don't have any ideas for you without more specific details. At first glance it is unlikely anything to do with the hitch, unless something is loose that should not be.
Follow the owner's manual and make sure everything is torqued to the proper specs. You can download it here if you don't already have one: www.equalizerhitch.com/Equal-i-zer%20Support/installinstructions.php
Best of luck getting to the bottom of it!
Thank you for your Visio and all the help
Thank you +Jon Reagan, and thanks for towing with an Equal-i-zer hitch.
Noticed in your manual you do not mention measuring from the ground to the wheel well on the rear axle. I installed the hitch according to directions in the manual and the final setup has my front measurement where it was unloaded, but my rear is squatting enough that the trailer is no longer level. I imagine I can move the head up on the shank but I wondering if that is the right approach. I question not having more weight transferred to the front axle. It seems if the front measurement is in the same position as it was unloaded I have not actually transferred any weight to the front.
+Russ Nichols, thanks for the question!
If you have followed the steps in the owner's manual, and you have the same measurement at the front after engaging the spring arms as your baseline without the trailer coupled, then you should be getting pretty good weight distribution. Otherwise, the added weight at the hitch would be raising the front of your vehicle. For example, if unloaded is 30", coupled with no WD is 31", and coupled with WD is again 30", then you're getting 100% WD, meaning that the weight on the front axle is 100% of what it was without a trailer coupled. You should never exceed 100%. The weight you are transferring is not the added weight of the trailer, it is the weight that you would have otherwise lost at the front due to the teeter-totter effect of adding the trailer to the rear of the tow vehicle. Here is a good video that discusses this concept: ruclips.net/video/XBZu39pQ8Gg/видео.htmlm13s
It is fine to have the rear of the tow vehicle squat some. You are adding a significant amount of weight from the trailer's tongue weight, and you should expect the rear axle of the tow vehicle to carry that weight. This is good, because you need more weight and traction on the rear axle to help control the trailer as you tow it. The only time this is a problem is if you are still exceeding the rear axle weight rating, even with the hitch set up for maximum (100%) weight distribution.
As far as the trailer goes, if it is more than 1-1/2" out of level front to back even with 100% weight distribution (meaning all the way back to the baseline weight/measurement at the front), moving the hitch head higher is a good next step. Be sure to go through the weight distribution setup process again, as raising the head will decrease the weight distribution, assuming you keep the same number of spacer washers and same L-bracket position.
As always, if you have any questions about your setup, get in touch with our customer support team at 800-478-5578 or Support@EqualizerHitch.com.
Have you folks all been adhering to the torque specs between 300-400 ft lbs? My god that’s high. That is not a common torque wrench
Tony Giammarinaro agree that seems really high my 1/2 torque wrench only goes to 250
You should redo this video in at least 720p, if not 1080. 240p for a maximum resolution is like watching through a plastic bottle.
We're filming a new install video next week!
Equal-i-zer Hitch awesome!
Your hitch head appears to be at an angle where the top appears to be leaning towards the trailer. During the introduction, it appears to be plumb. It is designed to have this angle or should it be plumb verticle?
When set up correctly, it will have an angle. The washers inside the hitch head create that angle.
So... The Equal-i-zer acts as both dual sway control and weight distribution bars?
It sure does!
Cool, thanks so much. This will probably be my next investment.
It's got sway resistance built into it all over !
How low should the sway bar brackets on the trailer be? Do i need to adjust the sway control brackets at the hitch? What determines the amount of washers controlling angle? What is the torque of the bolts?
Thanks for your great questions. Some of the answers will differ, depending on your hitch model number. We would love for you to call or email us so we can help!
Call us at 800-478-5578, or email us at support@equalizerhitch.com
Thanks for watching!
I Have a pretty significant bend in the spring arms after getting the front of the truck back to original height. If I remove washers I lose WD. If I lower L brackets I lose WD. All the nice promo videos show the spring arms pretty much parallel to the A frame. Not mine. Any Issues?
That should be fine. If you do want to change it to be more parallel, you can lower the brackets and add a washer (or two) to compensate for the WD. But, if there aren't any towing performance issues, I'd probably leave it as it is!
I believe mine is set up correctly, I recently went to a larger trailer 600# tongue weight dry compared to the old one with 450# dry, do I need to go up from my 600# bars to 1000# bars when I load the trailer?
The ratings for the 6K specify a maximum of 600 lb tongue weight. That means any gross (includes trailer, propane, water, gear, etc.) tongue weight UP TO 600 lb is acceptable, but you should not exceed that. If you never exceed 600 lb with your new trailer fully loaded, you should be fine. However, if there are times that you do exceed 600 lb, you should move up to the 10K hitch model. If you need to up size, get in touch with our customer support team at 800-478-5578 or support@equalizerhitch.com, and they can help you figure out which new equipment you need.
Not sure if you still answer questions as this is old video can bracket be put further back then 32 in my trailer has lots of stuff in the way around that area
Great question, thanks for asking! No, the sway control brackets should not be mounted farther than 32” back from the center of the coupler because in a turn, the outside spring arm slides forward on the bracket.
However, the brackets can be moved forward up to 27” back from the coupler. Hopefully with that range of adjustability you can find a position that works for your setup. Good luck, and safe towing!
@@EqualizerHitch thank you. That is helpful. Wasnt sure if I could work around it.
You're welcome! Thanks for watching!
Do all the proper torque specs for all bolts come in the instructions?
Yes they do! If you have any more questions feel free to reach out to our customer service team!
Equal-i-zer Hitch, I have a V-noze trailer and I only have a maximum of 24" to attach the sway brackets. What should I do?
You've got a few options, you could mount the brackets at 24", but the bars would be pretty stiff. There is also the e2 round bar hitch from Fastway Trailer Products, which mounts between 24" and 27" back from the trailer frame.
Do you need to unhook the sway bars when driving in city with many turns?
+Carie Voss,
Nope. That is one of the awesome benefits of towing with an Equal-i-zer hitch. You do not need to unhook the bars to go through tight turns or to back up. Great question, thanks for asking!
Why does my hitch make a snapping metal sound
+Gustavo Orozco,
The "snapping metal sound" you are hearing is the sound of the spring arms overcoming the friction that is holding them in place. This is a very common occurrence with an Equal-i-zer hitch, and nothing to be worried about. In fact, it is a good sign that you have strong friction in place to resist sway. Making sure to lubricate the hitch head as shown in the owner's manual is the best way to reduce this noise. The manual can be downloaded here: www.equalizerhitch.com/manuals-and-guides
If you still have concerns, please contact our customer support staff at 800-478-5578 or Support@EqualizerHitch.com.
Equal-i-zer Hitch one other thing ive done the measuring and adjusting but for some reason my rear keeps dropping as if the weight is heavy and i just dont get it ..new shocks ive put but it drags after 25 miles of driving it...
+Gustavo Orozco,
Please give our customer support team a call at 800-478-5578. They can go through the details of your setup with you, and help find a solution for you much more efficiently in person. They are available M-F, 8:00 AM to 5:00 PM Mountain time.
i know these hitches make noise, but should it actually send a shockwave through my truck during low speed turns? I'm wondering if my dealership did not install properly, I can never come close to placing the arms on without the bar and have to use all my strength to remove them even after raising the vehicle.
Dale Held,
Yes, all hitches are kind of noisy sometimes. Well...lots of things about towing are noisy if you think about it - suspension, slide outs, jack (electric), generator...
No. you should not be feeling a "shockwave" through the truck, although you can feel vibrations more than you would expect because the hitch and receiver on your tow vehicle are bolted directly to the frame of the truck, so the sensation you do get transfers very efficiently from the hitch to the cab. We understand that this can sometimes be unsettling because usually we associate noise while driving as a bad thing, or something wrong with the car. However, in this case, it's actually a good sign telling you that your sway control is working well.
Here are a couple of things you can do to minimize the noise:
- Make sure you keep the hitch head lubricated with a good multi-purpose grease. We recommend the Equal-i-zer high performance lubricant: www.equalizerhitch.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=75&product_id=101
There are instructions for doing this in the Equal-i-zer hitch owner's manual here: www.equalizerhitch.com/Equal-i-zer%20Support/installinstructions.php
It's pretty easy to do, and will cut out most, if not all, of the noise.
- Get a set of Sway Bracket Jackets from a dealer in your neck of the woods: www.equalizerhitch.com/Where%20to%20Buy/index.php
These are designed to go on the L-bracket of the hitch, and they will help reduce the noise as well if greasing the head doesn't take it all out.
- Lastly, double check your set up for proper weight distribution. From your description, it sounds like you've got it set up to give you a lot - which may be just right for your particular rig. But there might be some room to dial it back a notch, and that would make getting your bars on easier, as long as you're not sacrificing performance and safety to do it. Instructions for checking this are also found in the owner's manual.
You're always welcome to call in or email one of our awesome customer support gurus at 800-478-5578 or Support@EqualizerHitch.com.
Safe towing!
Hello my equalizer tow hitch makes a snapping metal sound when turning ..Can u help
+Gustavo Orozco,
The "snapping metal sound" you are hearing is the sound of the spring arms overcoming the friction that is holding them in place. This is a very common occurrence with an Equal-i-zer hitch, and nothing to be worried about. In fact, it is a good sign that you have strong friction in place to resist sway. Making sure to lubricate the hitch head as shown in the owner's manual is the best way to reduce this noise. The manual can be downloaded here: www.equalizerhitch.com/manuals-and-guides
If you still have concerns, please contact our customer support staff at 800-478-5578 or Support@EqualizerHitch.com.
the L bracket nylon lock nuts are not properly used. it needs longer bolts
craig strom,
We need a little more detail to be able to help. Are you saying that we use the nuts incorrectly on the video, or do you mean that your hitch needs longer bolts and that the L-bracket nuts are not properly used?
Craig: if you look at the video time line at 5:02 you can see that the the bolt the nylon lock nuts on the L bracket are tightened down on do not extend through the nut. It does appear on the video that longer bolts on the L bracket are needed so that they extent through the lock nut.
I believe the brackets weren’t properly installed. He had a wrench on both sides tighten down the frame clamp. Mine the bolt heads are recessed into those brackets then the L brackets sit flush. Appears that the bolt heads are sticking out causing the L bracket to not sit flush with the brackets. Also Equal-I-zer how far out should the torsion arms stick out past the L pin? I just installed mine at 31”s away and the arms stick out between 3 1/2” and 4”. Is that enough room to pivot and not fall out on sharp turns? I’ve always used a f450 dump truck to tow my camper and never needed to use this but the camp site I’m going to this weekend I will not be able to maneuver that truck around into my spot.
Equal-i-zer Hitch please respond lol
This video shows the installation of an older model of link plate (frame bracket) that we used to produce. The newer design uses the recessed bolts for the outside link plate. Both designs work well.
31” back from the coupler will work great. The maximum for an Equal-i-zer hitch is 32”. As long as you have at least 3” of spring arm past the center of the sway control bracket, you will be fine. Thanks for towing with an Equal-i-zer hitch, and thanks for watching!
If my trailer is on fairly ground level but at my hosue the truck is inclining up the hill does this affect the setup adjustments of all this?
Yes. You need to find a parking lot, or even in the street, where the truck and trailer are on the same plane. It doesn’t need to be perfectly level, just close, but it needs to be flat. If not, it will effect the way the weight distribution is set up.
I have a problem looks when I turn o going backwards the brackets to hold the arms slide to the front...why these is happen?
Thank you for your question. Make sure that your brackets are properly torqued to the correct torque value. Also, having the bars rest flat on the brackets will help as well.
What do you consider as "slightly" lower loaded rear wheel measurements? What's ideal?
Mike StClair,
There really is no "ideal." Every setup is different based on your tow vehicle and trailer, and how they interact with each other. All this means is that when you are hitched up, the rear wheel measurement should be lower, showing that you are carrying more weight on the rear axle that when you were unloaded. This is good. You want to carry more weight there to hold your tow vehicle to the road better when you're towing.
The thing you want to make sure of is that you don't have the same or less weight (which would show up as a higher measurement), because that means your hitch is distributing too much weight, and that is not good.
Should update this video to HD
Don't worry, we've recently filmed a new Equal-i-zer Hitch installation video, here is the new link!
ruclips.net/video/E3bfKsS0ht4/видео.html
@@EqualizerHitch I tried to watch, listed a private video.
Commercials ?
is it okay to cut off two inches of the bottom so it doesn't drag in the driveway when I go in it
Tom Michaelson,
We need more detail! Cut two inches off what?
If you're referring to the adjustable shank (stinger), probably not. We recommend that you do not modify the hitch in any way, and doing so may void your warranty. However, you could contact our Customer Support guys and go into detail with them. 800-478-5578 or email Support@EqualizerHitch.com.
What's the size of the hardware?
+jet0577,
You can find a parts breakdown with the details of the hardware sizes in the owner's manuals on our website here: www.equalizerhitch.com/manuals-and-guides
If you need more than that, get in touch with one of our Customer Support staff at 800-478-5578 or support@equalizerhitch.com
Thanks for asking!
How would you factor in air lift 5000 air bags?
Any brand or model of rear axle air bags would be factored in the same way when used with a weight distribution hitch. Inflate the air bags to the pressure you expect to tow with. Then, set up your weight distribution hitch based on the weights/measurements you have with the tow vehicle and trailer at that point. After setup, inflating the air bags will decrease weight distribution, and deflating them will increase weight distribution. Make minor adjustments to the air pressure and weight distribution setup to get the ride you want and proper weight distribution from the hitch.