I have a vintage trailer from the early 70s with a reese hitching system and judging by the owners manual illustrations they were bought together. Everything still works nearly exactly the same. It also works incredibly well 50 years later.
It’s always a good practice to create a cradle under the safety chains by crisscrossing them. The left trailer chain hooks to the right side of the truck hitch and the right trailer chain hooks to left side of the tow vehicle hitch. It will also prevent chain drag on the flat surface.
This crossing of the safety chain is technically state law in some states. For anyone towing a box trailer or camper its is also best to use a sway control mechanism. I personally like the Reese setup best. One other thing I think that was missed here is getting the correct spring bars for the tongue weight of the trailer. This was a pretty good vid but I normally use enough load to keep the front height close to normal rather then 1/2" high. Sway control is a must have for safe travel. See so many first time rv user which post about wrecking and seems like the bulk of the cause. Put allot of miles towing a 30 extra tall box behind a 28 foot class C and had no trouble with trucks passing be it me or them doing the passing or cross wind. Does it move you yes! Does it stay in complete control Yes!
@J Dial : You need to cross them like an X, one over the other, underneath the trailer's hitch coupler. The reason you want to do this is because if the trailer becomes disconnected from the tow vehicle's hitch, the chain will tighten immediately and basically catch the trailer's hitch coupler, which will allow you to carry the trailer long enough to safely pull over, without its coupler hitting the road and either destroying the A-frame, or causing a major accident.
@Jdial... A perfect explanation! I’ll testify that it really does work. 1st hand experience! The only damage I ended up with was scrapes n scratches on my chains bottom of the ball receiver🙏🏻
Thanks. I realized that after reading replies that didn’t match video info at all. It wasn’t perfect. (Chains, torque wrench) but I admit I never used torque wrench. Arm torque, checked twice on trip.
right on Carid best video an explanation i had 2 ' difference in the front of my kia sorento hauling a travel trailer ,now it is even front an back with the weight distribution Hitch, i learn i have to jack it up before hooking the chaines a did the opposite it is alot easier the right way .
I don’t know if I saw it right or not, but it didn’t look like he crossed the safety chains... Always cross your safety chains when towing. It serves as a cradle for the trailer tung if your trailer accidentally comes unhitched.
FYI- In the last step with hooking up the safety chains, the open face of the claw should always face upwards. Just opposite the way the video shows here. The chains should also form an X or criss cross each other. This is just an added safety measure. Happy trails.
In Germany you use such systems only against high speed swinging over 80 km/h. The Caravan itself must be fully loaded so balanced it doesn't press more as 50kg on the ball. A complete different thinking with the same technic.
He says keep close to same height at front of the tow vehicle with the spring bar adjusted... which changes headlight aim based on how much the rear springs compress. I always adjusted spring to lower the front the same amount as the rear,which will keep the headlight aim the same.
And if you need spring equalizer... you need electric trailer brakes, that apply when you depress the tow vehicle brake pedal, not based on "surge" (surge is the trailer trying to pass the tow vehicle... which is... ye be screwed with a heavy trailer.) not surge brakes Adjusting the electric brakes you want to JUST not lock up the tires on the road surface. This changes with load on the trailer and the road surface. (thus the adjustment knob on the controller) Check that when road condition/load changes. If they lock up the trailer will try to pass the tow vehicle. its a very fine adjustment.
Chains should always be crossed over. That cable you attached if it's a brake safety cable I believe it should be attached to a part of the vehicle and not how bar.
Are those Springs really necessary? I would think that if you lift the hitch ball High enough, eventually the weight is going to shift back far enough for a good balance. I don't know. I'm just asking.
To make the most out of your towing only tow 80 percent at most . You will be safer that way and have less problems down the road? For example, Truck has towing compacity of 7500 LBS. Tow no more than 5500 to be on the safe side. (Small Trailer)
He says "place the ball mount assy onto hitch and position 3/4-1" inch higher than the coupler measurement. That being said from where would I measure the ball mount? Top of ball? Or somewhere else?
Don't forget the long term, and short term disability insurance, for if you missed a step or read that manual he talks about, wrong. Also, lower the deductible on your insurance coverage, and make sure you have full replacement insurance along with upping that Umbrella Liability coverage. Now employ a driver for your rig, and proceed in front him in your car, as you serve as the lead poney, in order that is, to be fully set. What could be easier, right?
Then you are abusing equipment trying to make up for your mistakes. All these things help make it safer, easier on equipment. Clearly most need towing 100. Classes.
if after hooking up the ball hitch to my trailer, I notice the the rear of my vehicle being excessively pushed down, why not just shift some inside weight to the rear of my trailer to level it out?...thanks
gunslingr45 The only things that have to come off are the spring bars. It’s not a big deal. A powered tongue jack is worth it’s weight in gold on a 100 degree day, though. Considering that this type of hitch can save your life, it’s not a big deal.
Yep!! Turn to sharp and you can bend the trailer frame or break one of the chains. Any weight distribution hitch with chains are junk. Plus the fact that there is Absolutely no Sway Control!!
It will limit if you need to turn sharply, ~45 degrees or more, like when you are backing the trailer into a campsite. At that point I usually remove the distribution bars, takes about 5 minutes, then back up. I have on multiple occasions backed in or turned sharply with the system attached the downside is delays the reaction time of the trailer due to torsion. So short answer is yes it does limit turning abilities in certain conditions but it is very easy to manage those conditions.
So it appears the weight distribution hitch converts some of the tongue weight to torque which then presses on the front wheels converting back to weight on the front wheels. What does that do as far as the stresses on the hitch itself? I have a well powered V6 sedan that only has a 1000 lb towing capacity which I presume is so low due to the unibody construction making the hitch mounting points structurally weak. I was hoping that with such a hitch I could increase the abysmal towing capacity but I'm thinking probably not. Can it help and if not, is there another means to increase my towing capacity to say about 2000 lbs? I have tons of power, just weak mounting points.
Who in the hell would want to go through all this!!! I have a 3 day weekend to go on a 20 mile camping trip, and this takes 2 days to install, and I will probably screwed it up and lose the trailer while in transit causing a RUclips viral video.
Anybody who wants to tow safely and comfortably. You set it up once. After that, hook-up is a breeze. I've towed the same trailer with and without and hands down an equalizer setup is the way to go!
turtlezed I believe he means higher. If the front sags as in that measurement becomes lower than when when you frost took it then you have actually taken away weight from the rear by having to much tension on the sway bars. That’s a big no no just like it is not good to take the weight from the front by adding the trailer
WireAddict Good point. If you find yourself reducing the number of chain links to increase spring bar pressure, and end up with the spring bars angled up beside the tongue beam, then the ball angle needs lowered. It determines the angle that the spring bars START from, before you pry them up. When they are up and locked in, they should be approximately level and just below the trailer tongue beam. This provides enough chain links and clearance for slight swing in a sharp turn. So yes, the ball angle (which contains the spring bar sockets) determines the amount of spring pressure when the bars and chains end up in the right posture.
bought my first horse trailer with a weight distro system. It's absolutely impossible to get the chain on the hook. I can get it on a link where it is not right and it flaps around (no purpose to that) but absolutely cannot get it on the right link (number 6). The weight distro system can take your finger off. It's dangerous too hook up. My new trailer is kind of useless.
So you failed to read directions, ask advise, watch the video? But you blame the hitch? How many names do you post with? You do NOT set chain length under much pressure. You first RELIEVE most of the pressure with the Jack. Please HIRE someone to move your horses. You will never figure out brakes, much less how to drive for their safety.
Some vehicles don't need the addition of a sway bar, but many do. The combination of WD hitch and SB will yield the best possible handling for your vehicle.
Should the trailer be completely level after the weight distribution system is properly installed? My RV dealer said the trailer should be pointing down a little bit.
The real goal is keep the tow vehicle level and the trailer level. If the rear of the tow vehicle goes down 2 inches and the front goes up 1/2 inch, you have a sway problem waiting to happen and the headlights will be aimed too high. The springs transfer weight to the front wheels and take it off the rear wheels. You want the front to come Down within +/- 1/2 inch of as much as the rear . (I measure at the bumpers.)
Distribution hitch in effect lessens the weight on the tow ball and rear end of the tow vehicle and increases the weight on the front of the vehicle. Trailer hitch anti-sway bars resist side-to-side "wig-wagging" of the trailer behind the truck.
This video is very misleading and incomplete! 1st - the front of the vehicle should never be higher or you are not distributing anything. 2nd - the bars should be level with the bottom of the trailer frame. Adjust the hitch angle to better align the bars. 3rd - when installed so that enough weight is distributed by the bars, you have to jack the back end of the vehicle up a considerable amount to make installing the bars easier, not just a little. You want the chains to install with little force, so you don't get whacked in the nuts by the cheater bar trying to lock in the chains. 4th - he never says what size bars to get. Do you match the tongue weight, do you get bigger ones, smaller? The correct answer is at least as much as the tongue weight. 5th - you should always tow with the nose down slightly, not raised like he implies in the video. Level is good too, but when the nose has a slight forward rake, it helps to eliminate sway.
The old man and I setup his WDS today and we ended up with only 4 chain links with the front wheel measured at 0mm sag loaded (or equal) to what it was unloaded and the rear wheel at 20mm sag compared to when unloaded. Is this good, or indicative that we need to keep adjusting? Is the aim to have the front and rear wheels sag the same amount so that ultimately the car is still as level as it is unloaded? Thanks for any help ;)
I have a Camper on my short Box extended cab Pickup .. I want to pull a trailer too .. I really can't see how you can put more weight on the front axle of the pickup with these bars?? I have fabricated designed and Invented all my life..
it's springing up the hinge point between the truck and the trailer. the tension on the rods is straightening out the line of the truck and trailer by spring force so it doesn't dip down where they connect.
Mike Skidmore So you can build stuff, swell. If you consider where the tongue weight falls in relation to the axle; and how the torsion bars apply force, it will make sense.
Think of the truck like a wheelbarrow and those bars are the handles. You raise those handles using the tongue of the camper and it puts more weight to the front of your truck.
So this is not weight distribution. All its doing is changing the angle of the ball and then those bars basically apply a twisting force on your hitch to push the frame of your vehicle down. So your hitch and receiver are taking on even more force than they were previously. Causing excessive wear and tear on the hitch and frame of your vehicle. Much better off buy a larger vehicle or upgrading your suspension system. Suspension is what really determines towing capacity. And would be a far better option than this hitch.
so if you're already towing a big 20000 pound 5th wheel camper with 3 slides and a tongue/hitch weight of 2000 pounds, where you do upgrade that 150/1500's suspension? LOL. have fun with that.
I have experienced fishtail problems when the front of a pickup truck is too high above its front axle. I am not understanding how the equipment corrects that, nor what exactly correct any of that how.
Sam Mullins It’s not very intuitive how it works, but trust me, it works. When it is adjusted correctly, prying the spring bars up doesn’t look like this video. It takes both hands and a grunt. There is a lot of lever pressure on that hitch pivot point. The system is literally pushing down on the front of the truck while raising the back. After you experience it, you will never pull a big trailer without it. It can save your life. You will need help setting it up correctly. Make sure the person helping you has plenty of actual experience in using one and setting up many. Camper dealership is a likely place to find the right help. There are many adjustments when doing the initial install, and they are all important. Beyond that, always be sure your cargo is located for the correct tongue weight.
It’s a part of system. It really helps. It keeps things more level, weight spread over all axles. But you still need to load trailer correctly. Look up “weigh trailer with bathroom scale.” You can weigh tongue weight with 250lb bathroom scale to @1000 lbs easily Goal is @10-15% total trailer weight. Ideally weight centered over trailer axles…
IF I recall from friend who had them. Leave them at 7. With weight distribution hitch. But without truck, trailer, weights, how it sits…. That’s a starting point.
I don't care that this video is a giant reese ad, as its still more informative than anything else ive seen.
facts
I have a vintage trailer from the early 70s with a reese hitching system and judging by the owners manual illustrations they were bought together. Everything still works nearly exactly the same. It also works incredibly well 50 years later.
Thank you! You made my setup a lot easier. I don’t have a Reese, but the principals are the same. Best video demonstration I have seen.
It’s always a good practice to create a cradle under the safety chains by crisscrossing them. The left trailer chain hooks to the right side of the truck hitch and the right trailer chain hooks to left side of the tow vehicle hitch. It will also prevent chain drag on the flat surface.
This crossing of the safety chain is technically state law in some states. For anyone towing a box trailer or camper its is also best to use a sway control mechanism. I personally like the Reese setup best. One other thing I think that was missed here is getting the correct spring bars for the tongue weight of the trailer. This was a pretty good vid but I normally use enough load to keep the front height close to normal rather then 1/2" high. Sway control is a must have for safe travel. See so many first time rv user which post about wrecking and seems like the bulk of the cause. Put allot of miles towing a 30 extra tall box behind a 28 foot class C and had no trouble with trucks passing be it me or them doing the passing or cross wind. Does it move you yes! Does it stay in complete control Yes!
This is a good educational video! The gentleman was easy to listen too and a good speaker. Well done.
6:44 you should always have the torque wrench on the nut, not the bolt.
This is the exact comment I came looking for
By far, this is the best instructional video there is available. Follow the instructions here exactly and you will have the best set up possible.
That is a seriously strong looking system and the price is quite reasonable considering all of the specialized hardware .
I like the draw tight hitch under the truck at the end, thought this guy was pushing Reese stuff.
Both companies are subsidiaries of the same parent company.
Dude, your age alone convinces me I should listen. 😇
Important note: Always crisscross the safety chains one time. For some states, it's the law!
@J Dial : You need to cross them like an X, one over the other, underneath the trailer's hitch coupler. The reason you want to do this is because if the trailer becomes disconnected from the tow vehicle's hitch, the chain will tighten immediately and basically catch the trailer's hitch coupler, which will allow you to carry the trailer long enough to safely pull over, without its coupler hitting the road and either destroying the A-frame, or causing a major accident.
J Dial You cross them once, essentially making a "basket" underneath your hitch in case it comes loose.
@Jdial... A perfect explanation! I’ll testify that it really does work. 1st hand experience! The only damage I ended up with was scrapes n scratches on my chains bottom of the ball receiver🙏🏻
Fifth Wheel Stree
Fifth Wheel Street, some chains originate from the center of the a frame, crossing the chains has no effect with this set up.
Not for the helpless non-DIY generations. For everyone else: GREAT VIDEO
Thanks. I realized that after reading replies that didn’t match video info at all. It wasn’t perfect. (Chains, torque wrench) but I admit I never used torque wrench. Arm torque, checked twice on trip.
Always lubricate before hooking up!
That's what SHE said!
Lubricate what?
@@Mick_4591 the shaft.
Nefix and chill
bonzoAU ask your parents what it means
right on Carid best video an explanation i had 2 ' difference in the front of my kia sorento hauling a travel trailer ,now it is even front an back with the weight distribution Hitch, i learn i have to jack it up before hooking the chaines a did the opposite it is alot easier the right way .
I don’t know if I saw it right or not, but it didn’t look like he crossed the safety chains... Always cross your safety chains when towing. It serves as a cradle for the trailer tung if your trailer accidentally comes unhitched.
FYI- In the last step with hooking up the safety chains, the open face of the claw should always face upwards. Just opposite the way the video shows here. The chains should also form an X or criss cross each other. This is just an added safety measure. Happy trails.
They also show the torque wrench on the bolt head, not the nut. And this guy proclaims to be such an expert. Fake news.
A very professional and well thought out video. Thank You for helping me.
Very helpful I love how he explained why you need it I has no idea how it actually worked.
In Germany you use such systems only against high speed swinging over 80 km/h.
The Caravan itself must be fully loaded so balanced it doesn't press more as 50kg on the ball.
A complete different thinking with the same technic.
Also the design of most trailers is made so that this kind of device would not be needed.
You just saved me $1400. Thanks!!!
Wow. This makes the setup of mine MUCH less daunting. I'm glad I saw this video!
Thank grandpa... many blessings your way...
A weight-distribution hitch with built-in sway control has no chains but relies on friction pads instead.
He says keep close to same height at front of the tow vehicle with the spring bar adjusted... which changes headlight aim based on how much the rear springs compress.
I always adjusted spring to lower the front the same amount as the rear,which will keep the headlight aim the same.
And if you need spring equalizer... you need electric trailer brakes, that apply when you depress the tow vehicle brake pedal, not based on "surge" (surge is the trailer trying to pass the tow vehicle... which is... ye be screwed with a heavy trailer.) not surge brakes
Adjusting the electric brakes you want to JUST not lock up the tires on the road surface. This changes with load on the trailer and the road surface. (thus the adjustment knob on the controller) Check that when road condition/load changes. If they lock up the trailer will try to pass the tow vehicle. its a very fine adjustment.
If ur that anal about it just buy airbags
Makes me want to hang-up buying a travel trailer !
Because of the hitch type??
If this did that. You made a wise choice not buying. Hotel rooms are a better choice.
Awesome video! His voice says "listen up"
Way better than the curt video. Wish I would have gone with reese
Chains should always be crossed over. That cable you attached if it's a brake safety cable I believe it should be attached to a part of the vehicle and not how bar.
This video made my head spin...
Torque the NUT not the Bolt.
Are those Springs really necessary? I would think that if you lift the hitch ball High enough, eventually the weight is going to shift back far enough for a good balance.
I don't know. I'm just asking.
To make the most out of your towing only tow 80 percent at most . You will be safer that way and have less problems down the road?
For example, Truck has towing compacity of 7500 LBS. Tow no more than 5500 to be on the safe side. (Small Trailer)
most importantly you must know all the maximum weight ratings of your vehicle and trailer and not exceed any one of them
Absolutely.
Bullshit,my truck is rated 6500 and i tow 9500 no problem!
ВолодяВладимирович pulling it is not the problem. Stopping it is
He says "place the ball mount assy onto hitch and position 3/4-1" inch higher than the coupler measurement. That being said from where would I measure the ball mount? Top of ball? Or somewhere else?
He keeps assuring himself that he’s the best at this. 🤓
Well it sounds like he has the background to back up that claim with that company.
Torque the NUT not the bolt head.
Always put the Torque Wrench on the Nut.. Now I wonder if I can trust anything they say ????
Don't forget the long term, and short term disability insurance, for if you missed a step or read that manual he talks about, wrong. Also, lower the deductible on your insurance coverage, and make sure you have full replacement insurance along with upping that Umbrella Liability coverage. Now employ a driver for your rig, and proceed in front him in your car, as you serve as the lead poney, in order that is, to be fully set. What could be easier, right?
Stay home. Hire delivery of your meals, get rid of your car. Thank you.
No drilling needed? Awesome!!!
I wish understood ...I'm still learning the names of the parts!
Reese and Drawtite are now one and the same.
Adds a moment to the system. Pivots for turning.
In use, do they add noticeable straightening effect while turning (similar to steering caster)?
"Spent a lot of my career evaluating"
Shows crash lol
How is this weight distribution when it's hook at the hitch. It might relieved few lbs with the bars.
This is why I have a fifth wheel, easy to hookup and less work
i tried 5th wheel .too high on my suburban !
But what if you load up the trailer front heavy..
Then you are abusing equipment trying to make up for your mistakes. All these things help make it safer, easier on equipment. Clearly most need towing 100. Classes.
if after hooking up the ball hitch to my trailer, I notice the the rear of my vehicle being excessively pushed down, why not just shift some inside weight to the rear of my trailer to level it out?...thanks
Do you have to disconnect everything to park? Most people have the one truck when they travel.
Well ,if you intend of leaving the camper parked and not attached to the truck,I would assume you would want to disconnect it
gunslingr45
The only things that have to come off are the spring bars.
It’s not a big deal. A powered tongue jack is worth it’s weight in gold on a 100 degree day, though.
Considering that this type of hitch can save your life, it’s not a big deal.
Me, watching this despite not owning a truck, a trailer, or a Bulldog™ Powered A-Frame jack:
*_Interesting_*
Thanks Bob
I thought the chains were suppose to be crossed at the end?
Thank you, precise
instruction for us female Camper /RV beginner’s ….
Will this weight distribution system limit the turning capabilities of the trailer?
It will if you use an anti-sway brake. But, that can be easily removed if needed.
Yep!! Turn to sharp and you can bend the trailer frame or break one of the chains.
Any weight distribution hitch with chains are junk. Plus the fact that there is Absolutely no Sway Control!!
It will limit if you need to turn sharply, ~45 degrees or more, like when you are backing the trailer into a campsite. At that point I usually remove the distribution bars, takes about 5 minutes, then back up. I have on multiple occasions backed in or turned sharply with the system attached the downside is delays the reaction time of the trailer due to torsion. So short answer is yes it does limit turning abilities in certain conditions but it is very easy to manage those conditions.
I have a fifth wheel but it never hurts to know how to do this, someone may need help one day.
So it appears the weight distribution hitch converts some of the tongue weight to torque which then presses on the front wheels converting back to weight on the front wheels. What does that do as far as the stresses on the hitch itself? I have a well powered V6 sedan that only has a 1000 lb towing capacity which I presume is so low due to the unibody construction making the hitch mounting points structurally weak.
I was hoping that with such a hitch I could increase the abysmal towing capacity but I'm thinking probably not. Can it help and if not, is there another means to increase my towing capacity to say about 2000 lbs?
I have tons of power, just weak mounting points.
Yep, you can increase your towing capacity by purchasing a vehicle with a higher towing capacity, it's the only way.
A WD hitch will not give you any increased towing capacity.
Nice commercial for Reese. But I don't think you mentioned the name enough.
Thats a great video nice product
Wow he's a good spokesman
Great video!
How to Set Up a Weight Distribution Hitch...........
People from Europe: hold my Heineken.......
Clear as mud!
Who in the hell would want to go through all this!!! I have a 3 day weekend to go on a 20 mile camping trip, and this takes 2 days to install, and I will probably screwed it up and lose the trailer while in transit causing a RUclips viral video.
Anybody who wants to tow safely and comfortably. You set it up once. After that, hook-up is a breeze. I've towed the same trailer with and without and hands down an equalizer setup is the way to go!
Good video but you’re supposed to cross the chains
@10.20...does he mean if youre within 1/2" or LOWER (not higher) youre good to go???
turtlezed I believe he means higher. If the front sags as in that measurement becomes lower than when when you frost took it then you have actually taken away weight from the rear by having to much tension on the sway bars. That’s a big no no just like it is not good to take the weight from the front by adding the trailer
I want more info on the angle of the ball!
this is somewhat determined by genetic factors
WireAddict
Good point. If you find yourself reducing the number of chain links to increase spring bar pressure, and end up with the spring bars angled up beside the tongue beam, then the ball angle needs lowered. It determines the angle that the spring bars START from, before you pry them up. When they are up and locked in, they should be approximately level and just below the trailer tongue beam. This provides enough chain links and clearance for slight swing in a sharp turn. So yes, the ball angle (which contains the spring bar sockets) determines the amount of spring pressure when the bars and chains end up in the right posture.
In your opinion, which Weight Distribution Hitch is best; the Hensley Arrow or ProPride 3P?
Neither the EQUALIZER HITCH
Did not see the instructor put the locking coupler safety pin in to the coupler assembly! (This is important as well).
You made a good video
Who is this guy, BOB
Words to live by, “Lubrication is a goo thing....” lmao
I jack the trailer and ball hitch up an extra 4" before locking in the arm chains. If I don't, the system does not work.
I added about 400 more pounds to the front tongue should I adjust it again
Step 1 - 100
you only have to set it up once.
bought my first horse trailer with a weight distro system. It's absolutely impossible to get the chain on the hook. I can get it on a link where it is not right and it flaps around (no purpose to that) but absolutely cannot get it on the right link (number 6). The weight distro system can take your finger off. It's dangerous too hook up. My new trailer is kind of useless.
So you failed to read directions, ask advise, watch the video? But you blame the hitch? How many names do you post with? You do NOT set chain length under much pressure. You first RELIEVE most of the pressure with the Jack.
Please HIRE someone to move your horses. You will never figure out brakes, much less how to drive for their safety.
Can you put a sway bar on there too or that would do everything
Some vehicles don't need the addition of a sway bar, but many do. The combination of WD hitch and SB will yield the best possible handling for your vehicle.
With this dude was my grandpa
This guy is good!
When I'm all hooked up and turning my hitch area makes a horribly loud noise. Any idea what that is or how I can get that to stop?? thx
Lube the hitch ball every time you hook up. Axle grease and lots of it to keep things slick.
Might just be the WD chains groaning.
Howdy Bob!
Can any receiver be used with a weight distribution hitch?
1:45
What’s the company‘s name again oh was it recess
I love this guy!
What happens when you drive a wt dist hitch over a deep gully or culvert?
Yeah, when rear wheels go lower than front wheels and trailer wheels. Massive loads on hitch surly?
Should the trailer be completely level after the weight distribution system is properly installed? My RV dealer said the trailer should be pointing down a little bit.
Down a little but less than before installing. You would still want some tongue weight there.
The real goal is keep the tow vehicle level and the trailer level.
If the rear of the tow vehicle goes down 2 inches and the front goes up 1/2 inch, you have a sway problem waiting to happen and the headlights will be aimed too high.
The springs transfer weight to the front wheels and take it off the rear wheels. You want the front to come Down within +/- 1/2 inch of as much as the rear . (I measure at the bumpers.)
F Huber ll
I want his old job
Sorry what was step 1 again
What’s the difference between “distribution hitch” and “sway bars”?
Distribution hitch in effect lessens the weight on the tow ball and rear end of the tow vehicle and increases the weight on the front of the vehicle. Trailer hitch anti-sway bars resist side-to-side "wig-wagging" of the trailer behind the truck.
One distributes weight, the other controls sway🤷♂️
@@Icutmetal Best comment of the year!
This video is very misleading and incomplete!
1st - the front of the vehicle should never be higher or you are not distributing anything.
2nd - the bars should be level with the bottom of the trailer frame. Adjust the hitch angle to better align the bars.
3rd - when installed so that enough weight is distributed by the bars, you have to jack the back end of the vehicle up a considerable amount to make installing the bars easier, not just a little. You want the chains to install with little force, so you don't get whacked in the nuts by the cheater bar trying to lock in the chains.
4th - he never says what size bars to get. Do you match the tongue weight, do you get bigger ones, smaller? The correct answer is at least as much as the tongue weight.
5th - you should always tow with the nose down slightly, not raised like he implies in the video. Level is good too, but when the nose has a slight forward rake, it helps to eliminate sway.
The old man and I setup his WDS today and we ended up with only 4 chain links with the front wheel measured at 0mm sag loaded (or equal) to what it was unloaded and the rear wheel at 20mm sag compared to when unloaded. Is this good, or indicative that we need to keep adjusting? Is the aim to have the front and rear wheels sag the same amount so that ultimately the car is still as level as it is unloaded? Thanks for any help ;)
The vehicle should be level. Not nose down. if you are nose down, means you are tail light and will result in a jack knife.
@@happypappy6371 death wobble
Whats with this fella's blue jeans? They look older than he is. I bet they had many years of wonderful wearing.
Great video.
Have you asked the question, "Where do I store this thing?" hitchport
No
these are old designs...dangerous to...i prefer the new spring bars with the trunion design with pickle fork.....
I have a Camper on my short Box extended cab Pickup .. I want to pull a trailer too .. I really can't see how you can put more weight on the front axle of the pickup with these bars??
I have fabricated designed and Invented all my life..
it's springing up the hinge point between the truck and the trailer. the tension on the rods is straightening out the line of the truck and trailer by spring force so it doesn't dip down where they connect.
Mike Skidmore So you can build stuff, swell. If you consider where the tongue weight falls in relation to the axle; and how the torsion bars apply force, it will make sense.
Think of the truck like a wheelbarrow and those bars are the handles. You raise those handles using the tongue of the camper and it puts more weight to the front of your truck.
So this is not weight distribution. All its doing is changing the angle of the ball and then those bars basically apply a twisting force on your hitch to push the frame of your vehicle down. So your hitch and receiver are taking on even more force than they were previously. Causing excessive wear and tear on the hitch and frame of your vehicle. Much better off buy a larger vehicle or upgrading your suspension system. Suspension is what really determines towing capacity. And would be a far better option than this hitch.
Go do a shear and moment diagram of the rig and you will see what the forces are doing with and without the WD hitch.
so if you're already towing a big 20000 pound 5th wheel camper with 3 slides and a tongue/hitch weight of 2000 pounds, where you do upgrade that 150/1500's suspension? LOL. have fun with that.
Fungulus1 Yeah, not exactly.
I have experienced fishtail problems when the front of a pickup truck is too high above its front axle. I am not understanding how the equipment corrects that, nor what exactly correct any of that how.
Sam Mullins
It’s not very intuitive how it works, but trust me, it works. When it is adjusted correctly, prying the spring bars up doesn’t look like this video. It takes both hands and a grunt. There is a lot of lever pressure on that hitch pivot point. The system is literally pushing down on the front of the truck while raising the back. After you experience it, you will never pull a big trailer without it. It can save your life. You will need help setting it up correctly. Make sure the person helping you has plenty of actual experience in using one and setting up many. Camper dealership is a likely place to find the right help. There are many adjustments when doing the initial install, and they are all important.
Beyond that, always be sure your cargo is located for the correct tongue weight.
It’s a part of system. It really helps. It keeps things more level, weight spread over all axles. But you still need to load trailer correctly. Look up “weigh trailer with bathroom scale.” You can weigh tongue weight with 250lb bathroom scale to @1000 lbs easily Goal is @10-15% total trailer weight. Ideally weight centered over trailer axles…
Great vid!!
Stupid note if you install the pin on the trailer shank from left to right you can forget the cotter pin. Is Reece hiring for a crash test driver.
That doesn't make sense. Why would you forget or not need the cotter pin, depending on the direction of the hitch pin?
Clarice Davey Are you applying?
If I wanted to read the instructions, I wouldn't need to watch the video.
if you need this you need more truck........
Thanks
With Rancho 9000 shocks do I turn them up to 9 or leave them at 7?
IF I recall from friend who had them. Leave them at 7. With weight distribution hitch. But without truck, trailer, weights, how it sits…. That’s a starting point.