By the look of the print, I would venture a guess at 1 of 2 things being the issue. It's either the slicer having a stroke because the print seems to only be affected on right side (which doesn't really make sense). The alternative is that the display is too close to the bed, catching the build plate and causing it to shift a little bit. It was actually kind of difficult to tell, from the way you were holding the print, if the upper layers (on the left side of the print) were still accurately printing where it should. Looking forward to seeing the actual cause.
This printer I bought for $25 at our local Restore. Added a CRTouch, Glass Bed, and Marlin 2.1.2 By default the printeres power recovery mode would prevent Z from moving up or it would randomly reboot. Disabling power recovery fixed that issue until I upgraded the firmware. I haven't experienced your issues but upgrading your firmware for Linear Advance and possibly input shaping would help you with print quality.
I would suspect the X belt tension, also I would have checked that the extruder gear is not gunked up with ground filament dust. or the back right levelling wheel did not come off.
I posted the results tonight and it was a loose hot end, check out my video!!! Sometimes it's the simple things that get us. Thanks, Andrew for all your support...Ken
Bowden Tube isn't long enough which rocks the hotend and coupling eventually spinning the fastener/screws in their socket. Also, the coupling will ‘bite’ into the Bowden tube to keep it in place. When the tube is too short this ‘bite’ becomes destructive. To resolve that, clip the Bowden tube to a fresh section. Unfortunately, this shorts the Bowden tube, causing the main issue again but exaggerated. When the print head is farthest out, bottom right quadrant, the hotend is bending out due free-play, be it the tube, coupling or hotend, thus overshooting the design in that same direction. I noticed how the error was consistent through out the print you started with, the blue sheet w/ a hinge. In my shop I use 8 Ender 5s and a couple Ender 3s, almost exact same setup as Tronxy. Over time I clipped the Ender 5 Bowden tube short to correct free-play from the pneumatic coupling damage, re-causing the problem. This isn’t a Creality of Tronxy issue, but all printers with pneumatic couplers. My correction, I introduced a 'spline' between the electronics cable and Bowden tube. I zip type all three together, increasing rigidity helping to seize Bowden tube movement. ALSO, I've replaced the pneumatic couplings in favor of Compression Fitting. These have Brass ferrules that 'crush' onto the Bowden tube, replacing the teeth of the pneumatic couples in places of surface area + pressure + friction while greatly expanding the holding area of the Bowden Tube. I put a camera on the hotend, sped up the footage and see barely any movement at all. My printers without the compression couplings move noticeably, just not as much. There’s almost no destruction to the Bowden tube now that teeth aren't ‘biting’ into it. I did replace the coupling at the extruder as well with a size matched version. I'm not sure if RUclips allows amazon links but here is the link to the compression fittings I use. www.amazon.com/dp/B09QKN2NR1?psc=1&smid=A2ZNNMF1KPBJYE&ref_=chk_typ_imgToDp The example amazon link above I found but also found another youtuber experimenting with the same concept. I've had his link bookmarked for years. I made the conversion to Compression fittings two years ago so never think to get his video out. Here's @andrewesquivel with his testing and same troubleshooting conclusion: ruclips.net/video/a-vUWljYeA4/видео.html
I see some serious thinking going into solving this problem. I will have a video posted tomorrow evening around 7:00 PM EST with a full explanation of what caused this distortion only on the last inch or so of the right side of the part. I look forward to hearing from more of you guys and hopefully someone will come up with the answer. Thanks for participating...Ken
As you will see in the video I posted tonight, the belts were not the problem, but I was looking at it all the time. If it had been a snake it would have bitten me!!! Thanks for the comment and your support...Ken
Have you re-sliced the STL file? If not, try re-slicing the STL and try printing that new gcode. Its possible that the gcode when corrupt or something.
I dis swap the chip with the gcode from another printer and that was not the problem. I posted a video this evening that tells all. Thanks for the comment and your support...Ken
By the look of the print, I would venture a guess at 1 of 2 things being the issue. It's either the slicer having a stroke because the print seems to only be affected on right side (which doesn't really make sense). The alternative is that the display is too close to the bed, catching the build plate and causing it to shift a little bit. It was actually kind of difficult to tell, from the way you were holding the print, if the upper layers (on the left side of the print) were still accurately printing where it should. Looking forward to seeing the actual cause.
You're right the slicer having a problem just doesn't make sense. U did post a video this evening with what I found, check it out...Ken
This printer I bought for $25 at our local Restore.
Added a CRTouch, Glass Bed, and Marlin 2.1.2
By default the printeres power recovery mode would prevent Z from moving up or it would randomly reboot. Disabling power recovery fixed that issue until I upgraded the firmware.
I haven't experienced your issues but upgrading your firmware for Linear Advance and possibly input shaping would help you with print quality.
Thanks for sharing that my friend, and it sounds like at $25 you got a pretty good deal. Thanks for your comment and support...Ken
I would suspect the X belt tension, also I would have checked that the extruder gear is not gunked up with ground filament dust. or the back right levelling wheel did not come off.
I posted the results tonight and it was a loose hot end, check out my video!!! Sometimes it's the simple things that get us. Thanks, Andrew for all your support...Ken
Bowden Tube isn't long enough which rocks the hotend and coupling eventually spinning the fastener/screws in their socket. Also, the coupling will ‘bite’ into the Bowden tube to keep it in place. When the tube is too short this ‘bite’ becomes destructive. To resolve that, clip the Bowden tube to a fresh section. Unfortunately, this shorts the Bowden tube, causing the main issue again but exaggerated.
When the print head is farthest out, bottom right quadrant, the hotend is bending out due free-play, be it the tube, coupling or hotend, thus overshooting the design in that same direction. I noticed how the error was consistent through out the print you started with, the blue sheet w/ a hinge.
In my shop I use 8 Ender 5s and a couple Ender 3s, almost exact same setup as Tronxy. Over time I clipped the Ender 5 Bowden tube short to correct free-play from the pneumatic coupling damage, re-causing the problem. This isn’t a Creality of Tronxy issue, but all printers with pneumatic couplers.
My correction, I introduced a 'spline' between the electronics cable and Bowden tube. I zip type all three together, increasing rigidity helping to seize Bowden tube movement.
ALSO, I've replaced the pneumatic couplings in favor of Compression Fitting. These have Brass ferrules that 'crush' onto the Bowden tube, replacing the teeth of the pneumatic couples in places of surface area + pressure + friction while greatly expanding the holding area of the Bowden Tube.
I put a camera on the hotend, sped up the footage and see barely any movement at all. My printers without the compression couplings move noticeably, just not as much. There’s almost no destruction to the Bowden tube now that teeth aren't ‘biting’ into it. I did replace the coupling at the extruder as well with a size matched version.
I'm not sure if RUclips allows amazon links but here is the link to the compression fittings I use. www.amazon.com/dp/B09QKN2NR1?psc=1&smid=A2ZNNMF1KPBJYE&ref_=chk_typ_imgToDp
The example amazon link above I found but also found another youtuber experimenting with the same concept. I've had his link bookmarked for years. I made the conversion to Compression fittings two years ago so never think to get his video out. Here's @andrewesquivel with his testing and same troubleshooting conclusion: ruclips.net/video/a-vUWljYeA4/видео.html
Thanks for sharing this info, I responded in more detail on the other video. Thanks for your support...Ken
I see some serious thinking going into solving this problem. I will have a video posted tomorrow evening around 7:00 PM EST with a full explanation of what caused this distortion only on the last inch or so of the right side of the part. I look forward to hearing from more of you guys and hopefully someone will come up with the answer. Thanks for participating...Ken
I think the printer may have had some debris on the y belt causing it to move more than it should and consistently shift at one location
As you will see in the video I posted tonight, the belts were not the problem, but I was looking at it all the time. If it had been a snake it would have bitten me!!! Thanks for the comment and your support...Ken
Have you re-sliced the STL file? If not, try re-slicing the STL and try printing that new gcode. Its possible that the gcode when corrupt or something.
I dis swap the chip with the gcode from another printer and that was not the problem. I posted a video this evening that tells all. Thanks for the comment and your support...Ken
I am selling my 3D printed products on Amazon amazon.com/newtechinventors and my website, newtechinventors.com