I just came here to say that as well! This shld be a bookmark of how these videos shld be DONE! I've never seen a better DIY video, no long talking, loud music, telling where stuff are, he showed it, well edited, just BRILLIANT!
Thanks! I have your exact same 2011 BlueTec and your RUclipss have been a lifesaver. I’ve looked and I think you have the only 2011 bluetec content on RUclips and what you do is really good. I’m currently trying to replace my power steering pump and I was really hung on removing the fan until I saw you do it. I have the Mercedes Online Documentation system for my vin but it’s so big and complicated it’s hard to follow. I’ll be watch you now!
Thanks for posting this! I am looking at buying a car with this engine. Thankfully the oil cooler was replaced not that long ago at a cost over $3000. It makes perfect sense why almost $2K in labor!
@youtoobe169 what are you talking about overpriced usa ;) mate I'm stay in Scotland so my mate working in lexus garage in Edinburgh, after work Hi doing extra jobs and Hi charge 34£ hour labour I understand no one work for free but cmon man that's mental, only idiots pay that much for any labour that not rocket science tbh
@@jazda200 I must be an idiot then because I happily pay a competent mechanic to do a proper job on my car when the work is too complex for my skillset.
Nice video. Took me about 20-30 hours to complete. A couple tips: Harbor Freight offset box wrenches 32042 are great for the injector fuel lines if you slot them with a grinder. Mine was also leaking from the oil filter housing to block, oil filler cap, black plastic horizontal tube that the throttle body/flapper and egr bolts to. I also replaced the diaphragm in my pcv/ccv valve. It was stiff and letting too much oil into the intake. CRC water-based de-greaser from Autozone will make the aluminum and plastic parts look like new without much scrubbing. A small flathead screwdriver can loosen most of the electrical harnesses easier than pulling on the gray taps from the other side. Remove the EGR valve near the firewall on the passenger side. It will make getting the hose clamp near the firewall and the catalytic converter bolts much easier. Get the seals directly from the Mercedes dealer instead of buying OEM. The seals in the IDparts and Elring kits are an older revision. The Mercedes TSB on the oil cooler seals says not to use the older rev seals. The current generation are completely covered in purple viton. You can see metal near the center of the holes on the older ones. I didn't find that out until after I replaced them. My car had the current rev purple seals and they lasted about 85,000 miles before I replaced them.
No way a normal person with no expierince can pull a job like that. Taking it of looks easy, puting it back? idk man :DD Not sure if i m capable to remember how to put everything back without taking notes or pics! Nice video man, Thank you for sharing all that hard work
Lol 😂, it’s my second time as well doing this. Organizing is key!!! Either put all the screws and bolts back to where they belong after taking off a part or, like I did, make a quick layout/diagram of the engine on a piece of cardboard and punch the bolts through in their place.
@@thebrodnaxs8304 I made the layout free-handed from scratch on a piece of cardboard. Basically roughly draw all of the bolts places where you take them out and punch them into the cardboard.
Thanks for this video. Its really helpful for us car owners who have the same problem. We have an ML 350 bluetec sport that has the same problem, oil leaking. Took it to mercedez to have it checked first time theybdidint solved the problem. Tool it back again and they said it's the oil cooler seal. Can't believe they didn't get it right the first time when they have all the tools that they need to help them identify the culprit. Any ways they are charging us £140/hr and they said that it's an 8 hour job 😔
@@AlbanianFix OMG really?! Unfortunately our warranty company won't pay for it cos the fault was from wear and tear. We are more than happy to pay as long as the job is being done right. We'll go and get our car back tomorrow and we'll see if mercedez done a good job this time. Thank you so much for this video really really helpful.
@@sheilabravo01 Yeah hopefully they do. I mean, it'll be back on them if they didn't :) Ask them if they had the chance to clean the manifolds since they were that deep into the engine and the swirl flaps were not stuck and in good shape. Ask if they used the new updated (Purple seals) for the oil cooler and also if the turbo was in good shape as well. I know that they might have already done all of that but at least it gives you a peace of mind and gives them a sense that you've done your homework on this issue. After the job is done, i would suggest to open the hood and pop the cover and take some crisp pictures around the engine and then compare after a couple of weeks driving it to see if there's still a leak or something.
@@AlbanianFix thank you so much you have time to reply to my sentiments 🙂 yes I did a lot of research on this matter just because mercedez didn't get it right the first time.. I wish I have seen your videos first so that it has save us money the first time they diagnosed our car. It's just so frustrating because they have all the equipment to help them find the culprit but they didn't see it the first time. Apparently they updated the seal in 2010, my question was to them how come our car has got the old seal when it was registered 2013, shouldn't it have the updated seal already? Just a thought. Anyways thank you for reminding me to ask those questions really appreciate it.
@@sheilabravo01 Well, to answer that question, your about to open a big can of worms. I don't know how true this is but I like to believe this story and will keep it as short as possible... The oil seals were never replaced with these very new Purple seals (Viton). They were replaced with other Orange seals like its predecessor that had better heat resistance but would fail just as bad. Mercedes announced that 2010 models and up have newer seals and "supposedly" worked as promised so it can change this issue from bein a recall item to a regular maintenance item. It's simply an engine design flaw and there's little to nothing you can do about it. Even the new Viton purple seals will fail as well but at least will last a little longer. In my opinion, at the end of the day, this oil leak form the seals is not too bad. Yes, it will leak and yes it's annoying and you need to keep checking on the oil level so it doesn't drop too much but it will not harm the engine. It's like a broken water faucet that leaks even when you shut it off completely but you still live with it. Don't the race the car and don't stomp on the gas and you'll be fine. I know people that have been driving with with issue for years and still refuse to fix it(or no money to do so). And I also know another guy who had exactly this same issue but failed to do regular oil changes (well past the recommended 10000 miles) and as little of a leak it is, the engine blew the head gasket from overheating and had no oil in it (his mistake). If you love the car, and I do, the best thing you can do is to just keep up on the maintenance as follows: Change oil every 5000 miles (Not recommended 10000). Dip stick should show oil level in the middle, don't go over! Change air filters every 15000 (every 3rd oil change) Change fuel filter every 15000 (every 3rd oil change) All of the items above will cost you about $250, maybe less where you're at.
I'm about to do this job on my R320. The access is the worst aparantly. This is a great video mate., Well done and thanks for sharing. I'll definitely be referring to it 👍.
Lol, that’s funny you say this because I was still working while doing this project and it took me about a week working on the car utilizing 2-3 hours after work
@@AlbanianFix does that mean all OM642 Motor will have the same Problem? I m driving an ML 350(2014) 140.000km currently and i dont have any oil leaking at all.. I let the oil change Regularly every year and haven t had any problem so far..
Great job mate, I agree it's a big job and no bloody way I'd do it myself. Taking it apart is easy but putting it together needs a genius like you ;). Thanks PS: how long did it take you?
Thank you but trust me, no genius here. If you have a good open space, display all the parts with numbered steps, grab a piece of cardboard, make an outline of the bolts and stick them in the cardboard also describing how it was mounted. Take pictures of tricky parts and hold up a number beside it showing which step it is. I think I went all the way up to step 120ish. I was really taking my time with it and was only working after work for a couple to a few hours. Took me about 7-8 days to take it apart and label everything and then took me about 4-5 days to put everything together. Mercedes dealership quoted this job to be more than $5000 and expect it to be done in 13 hours. Good luck 👍
That was the hardest bolt actually. The only way I was able to, was to use an impact joint socket. It has just the right length and the right flexibility to reach the bolt.
Thank you so much. This is an absolutely superb video. This will be my go-to step by step guide if I ever need to do my E350 CDi. How do you know if the seal needs replacing? Does it leak water into the oil or vice-versa or does oil come out and drop on the ground?
Thanks a lot! The oil doesn’t mix with water since the water’s seals are never at the hottest temperature like the oil seals are and therefore they’re always intact and almost never leak. The oil seals however are at much hotter temperature and therefore disintegrate and start to leak. Oil comes out and goes out through a drain hole (🤔 which is weird, seems like the engineers knew it’s going to leak) and after that it goes to the ground. This is one of the biggest oil leak issues with the late Diesel Mercedes but for me, all-in-all, it’s not that bad at all unless the leak is super bad.
Before going to all the effort of changing these oil cooler seals, change the PCV valve first. It's $30 and takes five minutes to change. The excess pressure from a faulty PCV valve caused my oil seals to leak but they don't anymore.
hello very nice video . when i was doing it the sensor on the left side inlet manifold got broken and i can not find the part number. can you tell me what that sensor it? if you pause the video at 12:19 you will see the one held in with a metal clip. i need a new one thank you
Good afternoon, what screws, seals or other worn parts would you recommend to be replaced with oil cooler seals? So that we would have some peace for the next 150,000 km. Thank you very much.
There are plenty of kits actually that you can use for this job to replace screws and seals. They’re all over eBay and other websites. The kits come complete with all those things that you’re removing which are also recommended parts to be changed.
Nicely done bro, have had the same leak on ML350, (wasnot too bad) however when I placed the purple seals, within two weeks i had a bigger leak then before. Took all apart thinking I misplaced the seal or something, but everything was placed perfectly.. So got me pair of orange seals again and did the whole thing al over. Anybode else expirienced the same with these stupid Purple seals which were suppoce to be better??
Hmm 🤔... this is the first I ever heard of... although, mine is starting to leak again recently, not as bad but I can see oil residue when I do oil changes. Might be from other places too... engine has some years and mileage on it 😅
You're the best thank you for very detailed video. I am planning to do my 2009 GL320 bluetec very soon (lot of oil leak) and in the near future my 2013 E350 bluetec
Nga te gjitha videot qe kam pare keto dite, ti i kishe permbledhur ne nje. Bravo. Ke servis apo i ben per hobi keto? Nese ke servis do isha i nderuar nese do me jepje adresen. Je i vetmi ne Shqiperi qe e njeh motorrin OM642. Te tjeret me fusin friken per kete motorr. Nuk ben, prishet motori, motori me i keq ndonjehere etj etj.
Flm vlla por nuk kam servis. Une jetoj ne amerike dhe dashje padashje për të kursyer (sidomos ktu ne amerike) e kam bere hobi. Kjo pune ktu ne serviset e amerikes shkon diku tek 5000-6000 dollare Edhe e thone kshu pa ju dredhur qerpiku 😂 Vertet ne amerike ke leke dhe je ne gjendje te mire ekonomike por me duket idjotsi te shpenzosh çerekun e vleres se makines per nje difekt. Dmth ktu tek ne me 4 difekte te ksaj natyre i bie ta çosh per skrap se s’ja vlen ta rregullosh 😄 dhe me ato lek te blesh nje tjeter… Kshu qe per mua nqs puna eshte per skrap, un me mire e shikoj njeher vete edhe tu pa tu bo… Edhe kshu shkoj kjo pune pothuajse per çdo sherbim qe ka pas nevoj makina, nga tu pa tu bo, u kthye ne hobi 🙂 Për sa i perket te tjereve qe thone nuk bo si motorr, vetem nje pyetje beju: Ne Gjermani, çfare makine perdorin per taksi? Gati 90% e mjeteve jane Benz E250 ose E350. Sa i shkon kilometrazhi atyre taksive? Shkon deri ne gjysem miljoni kilometra po te mirmbahet me sherbimet ashtu siç duhet.
@@AlbanianFix ti bravo te qofte se qenke edhe oratorisht i pergatitur. Amerika mund te kete leke por une te sugjeroj me shpirt te vish ne Shqiperi te hapesh nje super servisin tend e te punosh me orare dhe rregulla si ne Amerike. Edhe une jashte jetoj por keto jane muajt e fundit. Te pyeta sepse sic te thash do kthehem dhe dua te blej nje Mercedes te tille C320 CDI w211 dhe ka motorrin OM642. E pata me frike sepse skam zgjidhje tjeter. Modein e vjeter nuk e dua. Modelet e reja jane te gjitha me kete motorr. Nese do ishe ti ne Shqiperi do e kisha te zgjidhur hallin. Te pershendes
Is this the same problem with the 2015 cars? I just literally did all of the first part of this video earlier as my coolant flange was leaking... Well I think I have fixed it, just yet to drive it as I am in the process of changing all the suspension except shocks......🤦 Great video!
Thank you! It took me about 2 weeks working on it 2-3 hours on average after work. Had a secondary car so I took my time plus recording it. Pretty sure you can do it much faster.
Excellent video. Like very much that you have edited the video with part numbers, tool size, etc. What is the plastic pack part # and where you bought it? The video shows that you pull out of the pack which has oil cooler gaskets, O-rings and all other needed seals. I am fixing on my 2012 ML 350 bluetec SUV that has the same problem, oil leaking, with 63k mileage only. I have taken out all necessary parts and having difficulty to find all seal/gasket/O-ring part numbers one-by-one and to order them. THANKS.
My friend, i have a 2011 E350 BlueTec like the one you’ve frequently worked on. My job is replacing its power steering pump, but I have to get things out of the way beforehand. I’m stuck on the fan shroud, which is half way out. I need it completely out to go to the next step. I have it 1/2 up but I can’t figure out if it’s even possible to get it completely out without disconnecting some of the hoses on the left and right side about mid way up. I have the radiator hose on top right disconnected and that got the shroud to the halfway point. Have you crossed this bridge before? I appreciate your thoughts. About the 2:27 point in this video. Willie Chaffin Abingdon VA
Hey Willie, the big return hose at the top-right was actually the main thing in the way when I was struggling. So taking that hose off, will give you enough room to push the fan to the right while lifting it up in a zig-zag way and dodging the tabs on the left of the fan shroud that are getting stuck between the pipes. One small little pipe you should definitely avoid hitting is the small plastic inlet at the top-left of the radiator. It brakes very easily! Ask me how I know.
@@AlbanianFix I’m taking it slowwww so I don’t end up with a problem. I learned today line #2 is part of the transmission oil cooling system. It lands on the oil cooler in front of the radiator. I’m going to clamp it with pinchers and take it loose. Got to find out what line #1 is…. It might be part of the charge cooler, which I learned is Mercades name for turbo air cooler.
I have read a theory that dust gets into those seals as the aliumiumin expands and contracts with the winter summer mine dose not leak yet, but I still blow the engine out regularly.
hi sir, i know it is old video, hope you still check your youtube. I got oil leak in the engine bay but i cant tell which it come from, basically everywhere. especially on the driver side. the oil level is still at max lv since it was only 2 month ago. Can I keep driving it for another month? really need a vehicle this month. Will this make any bigger damage to engine as long as i keep my eye on oil lv?
Excellent work and camera work. I’m currently looking at an 2008 ML with only 69k miles and dealer serviced. I know this oil cooler leak would be looming and I’m reluctant to pull the trigger even though it’s a clean Florida car. I do a lot of shade tree mechanic stuff but would be hesitant to try this lol. My local go to diesel guy is also Albanian . Great guy and works at a MB dealership with a side hustle . What miles were on motor when you did this ?
Yeah we sure do love us some Mercedes especially when it’s a diesel. I had about 100K when I did this. Leak wasn’t significant but worth a try to stop it.
Thanks for the very detailed video with captions and tips - very professional. My local dealer just informed me about oil cooler leak in my 2012 ML350 Bluetec. They are charging 3,200 for it. I'm wondering if private mechanic shop might be cheaper. What do you think?
Hey f2ajack, if you live in the US, right now there’s a class settlement going for all owners of a bluetec mercedes and all qualifying ones can receive up to $3600. So there you go, you should be able to cash that money which can help you pay for this issue. Go to bluetecupdate.mbusa.com/home and check you vin number to see if it’s eligible. If it is, it should tell you around what time you can call your local dealership and check if they have your car on a recall list. Once you get your car done for free you can then apply to receive the money that’s promised to all bluetec owners.
Hi, and thank you very much for your useful video!. I have a 2007 JEEP Commander CRD with the same M.B. OM642, lot of oil leak recently...not getting yet to the floor dough, so I think will do this job very soon, because I saw in the comments of another video that in some cases (with a bad oil cooler) the oil can be sucked by the cooling system (within the oil cooler) and then the problem will be really BIG...do you know something about this situation?.
Thank you! No, I haven't heard anything like this before but it can be quite possible for something like this to happen. On the other hand, I think that because the coolant never gets to such a high temperature like the oil does, the seals on the coolant side don't deteriorate like they do on the oil side explaining why all these issues is so common in oil leaks and not in coolant leaks.
@@AlbanianFix Thank you for your answer, and...would you recommend when doing this job, to change also de oil cooler itself?...how can we know if it's working well or not having some internal damage?
@@rodrigofabregas7756 Yeah, definitely! For me, I was ok with exchanging just the seals but if you need extra peace of mind, I would definitely replace the cooler as well since this job is big and time consuming and you don't want to do it again anytime soon.
Pershendetje Shum pun e bukur dhe flm per videon. Te njejten gje po bej edhe un ne nje Chrysler 300c v6. Deshta me dit à mund ta pastroj me benzin llomin e zi sepse nuk kam ate flaken ? Flm
Benzina nuk te bo shum pune, mund te pastrohet pak por jo aq sa duhet. Per mua 100 here me mire me zjarr. Ket zjarr qe kam une, e ble ne dyqan shum kollaj 20-30 dollare. Me nje bombel gazi te thjesht dhe me fitilin e flakes e nez zjarrin brenda manifoldit te makines derisa te piqet llumi zi per nja 5-10 minuta edhe pastaj do e fikesh zjarrin dhe do e mbash flaken vetem me ajer te kompresum edhe llumi vazhdon edhe digjet si qymyr derisa te shkrihet fare. Kte punen e zjarrit ta besh vetem nqs manifoldi eshte metal, jo plastik. Edhe hiq pjese te vogla rreth e rrotull qe jane plastike.
@@AlbanianFix Shum flm per pergjigjen dhe respekte per ju. Me pelqeu shum puna juaj dhe e shpjegoje kret sakte proceduren e punes. Po radiatorin e ftofjes se vojit e nderron apo thjesht vetem gominat plastike?
@@dedajemilian1645 nga jasht me sy e shikon ose me sakte provoje ta verifikosh me xham. Vendose bazen e fthohesit mbi nje xham me pa qe a rri drejt dhe a perputhet 100% nga te gjitha anet apo ka hapesira qe do te thote se ftohesi eshte demtuar ose shtremberuar dhe nuk do bej 100% perputhje dhe me pas kur ti te vesh gominat ka per te rrjedh prap.
@Albanian Fix does that mean all OM642 Motor will have the same Problem? I m driving an ML 350(2014) 140.000km currently and i dont have any oil leaking at all.. I let the oil change Regularly every year and haven t had any problem so far..
Not all of them, especially the new ones that are coming out it seems that they have looked at this issue and fixed it. I feel like that from 2013 and up the engine has had some new small upgrades from what I could tell when I opened the hood on a 2013 ML Bluetec.
Nice work just just removed turbo last night. Need to clean up before pulling cooler. This is not a fun job. Deleting Swirl flap motor and valves also.
Yes, it can definitely be a risk for the aluminum intakes when using the torch for a long period of time. The torch is only there to “ignite” the soot much like igniting charcoal when you’re about to cook some steaks and then use just compressed air for the remainder to keep the fire going. The temperatures usually stay below the melting point of aluminum but hot enough to disintegrate the build up soot. Also, I used a propane that has lower heat output than other propane cylinders to be more on the safety zone but still need to be very careful not to overdo it. To answer your last question, yes there are tons of solvents. I’ve heard that dumping it in a bucket of diesel helps also.
we have 2011 e350 bluetec with 106000 miles. no one has done the timing chain yet, what is the best way to do it? chain feed and master link or front cover off and all new parts? i have not seen anyone do a full job yet
OM651 engine has this issue also. Throttle Valve is also doomed to fail sooner or later. Be aware of these issues if you're looking to buy this car. Big and costly job to fix. -W212 E220 2012 owner
Hi, I got the same issue with the oil cooler leaking around 1 litre oil every month for about 1 year, I can see from your video the actual orange seal is still intact, what’s your opinion on using a LeakStop product to soften and expand the seals? I was thinking about the Lucus stop leak as it’s got a lot of good reviews online.
I don’t really believe in products like that as they tend to have other side/negative effects on the engine or the car’s overall performance. As I’ve mentioned in other comments before, in my opinion, this is not an issue that can be fixed permanently. The design of this oil cooler was not the best and because of that this should be seen as a “wear & tear” or as a “periodic maintenance” item much like an oil change that also needs attention from time to time to check oil level.
Did the job myself and everything seemed to go right. But it’s taking 15 of cranking and it won’t start. How long does it take to prime this engine once it’s put back together?
It only took me about 6-7 cranks. Make sure you got all of the fuel lines hooked up right and all of the sensors back in place. Check fuel pressure by using the fuel filter’s line, first unhook and put it in a bottle or something to catch fuel just in case it squirts everywhere and then turn the key in the second position. Also make sure you can hear the fuel pump in the back of the car humming when you do this.
Albanian Fix I got it working after several cranks. I was told that turning the key to the second position for 15 minutes will also prime the fuel system. Not sure if it’s true but I seem to have a coolant leak from somewhere at the back/bottom of the engine... so I get to practice this repair and fuel system priming again...🤢
@@davidgarner3275 Nice! I figured you've already done that part but oh well it's up and running now, that's what's important :) ...As far the leak goes, check if the coolant leak is right between where the two manifolds meet. It's this part here: www.fcpeuro.com/products/mercedes-intake-pipe-socket-gl320-genuine-mercedes-6420980037 With some bright light, you'll be still able to see the slit and probably see the actual leak from it. It's common that coolant will leak from this spot if the double O rings haven't been seated right with some good lubricant because they can easily be turned, twisted or even slip out of place while you try to butt the manifolds together...
Albanian Fix I did have some issues with that part twisting when getting the manifolds together-a few times- and it twisted on me. I’ll check it again but I think I got it to seat correctly. I used an assembly lube on it to make sure I didn’t roll or cut either of the gaskets. The leak seems to be in the back of the engine so it might be a hose. I’ll start looking today and report back what I found so everyone can know what happened.
Hello. How do you clean all the gunk out of the valley, making sure nothing falls into you oil lead holes and clog up something? Oil holes seem to be so low down they seem to easily act as a drain, sucking in misery 😃
When removing the oil cooler, you will be left with a liquid of oil and coolant residue all over the place. Get a shop vac and start cleaning that up then your left with with a slimy gunk that you’re gonna carefully pick it up after plugging the coolant and oil holes up. I used the foamy earplugs, just make sure you don’t slip them all the way through :) and then used a flat head screwdriver to clean the bigger pieces , then a microfiber towel or any other towel that will not disintegrate into little pieces and finally used brake cleaner to finish off the job but only on metal surfaces.
@@AlbanianFix Hi how long did it take you to complete the whole job? I’ve had a leak from the air intake which has broken the swirl flap motor I’ve asked the mechanic whilst replacing that could he also replace the oil cooler gaskets he has said an extra £500 as he needs to remove the intake manifolds to me this like the easy part? Thanks for help!
I see you used the same oil cooler.How did you check to make sure it was not warped? Some guys will lay the bottom on 120 grit sandpaper to see if it is flat. I'm doing this job now and not sure if I need to buy a new oil cooler.
I didn’t check much on it. I just laid it flat on my granite countertop and it seemed pretty flat to me. But the cooler uses so many bolts around it and it really comes down to the actual double rubber o-rings that are compressed down that I really think it’ll be fine.
You can buy a kit I think on IDparts or fcpeuro that comes with all the gaskets needed to do this job and a new oil cooler. I've done this job about 7 times now and can't stress enough, replace EVERYTHING YOU CAN. Every oring or gasket, the cooler, the metal bevel that connects the intake manifold, etc.
@@carlbrutananadilewski8395 Got a giant coolant leak after doing my oil seals. While the car runs the coolant almost is running. I took it all apart did the whole thing again and now I got even a bigger coolant leak. its just running like a water fall as soon as i add coolant to the expansion tank. Anyone can help with what i missed?
Unless the leak is outrageously bad plus the seals on the coolant ports are bad as well then I wouldn’t worry about the oil cooler causing your issue. Your issue is extremely rare to be caused by this type of oil leak since the oil ports are on a slanted position to drip outwards of the oil cooler, through the drain hole, towards the transmission and then down to the ground (hence why some people mistake this oil cooler leak with the rear main seal leak). Another reason why it makes this issue even more rare is that the coolant ports, from what I’ve seen, never leak which means that it also never let anything to seep in. This is because on the coolant ports the heat never gets to high temps where the seals may fail compared to the oil ports where temperatures are much higher and hence why leaks are almost never found on the coolant side but almost always on the oil side. Now, my answer to your issue is also not bullet proof but, like I said, if you have some extreme oil leak paired with some coolant leak and you can see both on the ground then yes, I can see that being the culprit of your issue.
Thanks for you reply, I have read it may be the oil cooler it’s itself as they can crack internally and cause the two to mix but want to be certain before I go stripping it down. The only other thing I can think of is maybe a head gasket.
@@joshcoleman8258 Yeah, the head gasket might be more a culprit which means you wouldn't be trading much when it comes to stripping the engine down since you have to go down the same way, either for the gasket or cooler. Good luck and come back here to let me/us know what you have found, it can help someone else down the road.
Great job nice video. I’m here in Ontario Canada I have a 08 grand Cherokee Om642. Oil leaking. I changed the turbo seal from orange to black Brand new Been a week or so. Not leaking bad but figured there would be leftover oil from the leak to burn off. Jeeps always been maintained has 295000 Kms on it and runs smoothly and strong. Been reading that putting to much oil in is bad. Question is. Should I keep the oil level just above the halfway point on dipstick. ?? Thanks for the help
Yes, I personally believe that having more oil can affect the pressure inside the crankcase thus pushing out oil from the seals. In my recent oil changes, I keep the oil level just a quarter above the minimum and I have seen less oil, not significant, but still less than before. Thing is, doing it this way, you HAVE to make sure that you check oil FREQUENTLY because you don’t have any safety margins available and at any time your oil level might drop below minimum which then is also bad for the engine.
Sir,are you a mechanic or just a diy at home mechanic? Is this job ok for a guy with a bit of experience? Also was it easy putting it back together as mine is leaking very bad and im aldo going to put new turbo back on aswell myself?
No I’m just a DIY guy that knows a little bit about car engines. I believe that if you’re somewhat mechanically inclined and have a lot of patience during the process of noting where everything belongs, you should be good and not worry about it too much. If you decide to do it, please let me know how it went.
I am surprised the seals are the old type (orange), I thought 2011 had the new one... I have the same 2011 engine, 265hp, mass flow pipe is different and output turbo pipe is also different. I suspect in my later version, seals are purple. I have 255000km and no problem
Got a giant coolant leak after doing my oil seals. While the car runs the coolant almost is running. I took it all apart did the whole thing again and now I got even a bigger coolant leak. its just running like a water fall as soon as i add coolant to the expansion tank. Anyone can help with what i missed?
Hey Viktor, look in the comments, there’s another guy where this same issue was discussed and he fixed it. Also check this part: www.fcpeuro.com/products/mercedes-intake-pipe-socket-gl320-genuine-mercedes-6420980037 Most of the leaks come from this part if the seals are bad or not seated in correctly. This one is located right in between where the two manifolds connect.
I've got an oil leak on mine, enough to be topping up and oil on driveway. Where does oil leak on the engine (in most cases) when the seals fail? Mines in a garage (warranty) And there putting it down the the TIP seal, which imo shouldnt cause such a leak that you can see it dripping down the N/S of the engine near the sump. Either thay or its breathing heavy and there's more than should be coming out of there!
All of your theories make sense and could be very possible to happen. Still for the most part, the oil cooler seals always come up as the culprit and are the first things to suggested even at dealerships but, like I said, your other ideas make sense too.
@@AlbanianFix in doing this Job yourself is there anything else worth changing whilst all this is stripped down? I've noticed access to glow plugs is easy whilst your in there!!
@@possle Oh yeah definitely! Glow plugs, cleaning the air intakes, fuel filter change, making sure the swirl flaps swing freely are a few I can think of...
It took me about 10 days (as much time left I had after work) for a total of approximately 10-12 hours (including filming at the same time for RUclips)
A couple of other people have had the same question in this comment’s section... if you’d like to read them... but basically, nothing bad will happen unless the leak will get so bad that your engine will be low on oil constantly and you’ll have to top it off very often to avoid the engine blow out on you completely. Another thing that comes in my mind is that the leak might also be so bad that the oil will mix with the coolant since both ports that supply the coolant and oil are right next to each other but so far, after researching this issue for a while, I haven’t found anyone complaining about the coolant issue and the only leak that everybody is referring to is the oil leak. I believe since the oil being the hottest from the two, the rubber on that side wears out quicker and needs replacement.
@@AlbanianFix Thank you so much, the mb dealer in Richmond bc, said it would cost at least 2500 to fix, if something I don't understand become carbon it will cost 6000, to fire the carbon, I have no idea what it means. I am really doesn't know anything about cars. I already paid 3000 for the three year service plan, now this happens, since it's 2012 gl350 only 60k km, really donesn't worth the money to fix. it only drips a few drops every day. I probably just leave it be. Thank you so much again, for answering my question.
He probably meant cleaning all the carbon out like I did in this video with fire which is surprising to me that dealership would use such brute ways to clean out carbon deposits, usually they dip the engine parts in solution or something. Anyway, if you wanna let it be then you have to check oil levels at least once a week and top off when needed. Also keep in mind that oil level on the dip stick should be just below the middle mark, it helps the engine run a little smoother and have less blow by, since the pressure will be a little less in the crankcase.
@@AlbanianFix sorry to bother you again, the engine light come on and off, now it’s back on again, the code read saids p2413? Is it dangerous to drive with a bad egr? Thanks
@@maxbobo3904 Bad EGR will cause boost problems, your car will run slower, have bad mpg and the problem can worsen to the engine not being able to start at all eventually. I would take it out and clean it the best you can. There are video on here showing how people have succeeded in just cleaning the EGR alone and if the electronics on it went bad then you might want to look for another one. Let me know what happens.
@@AlbanianFix i end up lifting turbo up little bit and angled it and seprated y pir and bracket from turbo.there was 2 bolts from engine side toward firewall.which attaches the y pipe and bracket.there was no other way.i played with for an hour.
It’s hard to tell exactly. I did this in a week’s time, coming after work and just working a couple of hours on the car, much like a hobby. Taking my time and enjoying working on the car. Highly recommend to have a backup car… 😄
@@timoriordan1 yeah, it'll be fine "for a while", just be on point on the time intervals whenever you top it off, regularly check out the oil level and you'll be fine.
Oh what a sh** storm I can imagine... maybe the seals were pinched when you put the cooler back in? Or maybe a couple of screws weren’t tight enough...? Could you tell that the oil was spilled exactly from the seals?
@@OmarToubal did you tighten the fasteners on the oil cooler to the proper torque spec and in the proper sequence? Use the WIS for repairs to get proper torque specs, especially things with seals. ALSO, Even after you do the repair, you will get a lot of residual oil dripping until the valley is empty just an FYI. I know you said yours was empty so yeah the seals are probably leaking
@@aboodihn It depends where you live and what the prices of the MB dealers are. Mines was quoted around 4K. You can also try independent shops, maybe they're cheaper.
Are you fucking kidding me? This is definitely not a DIY project. You took half the engine apart! I’d rather get a part-time job and save $2000 and have them do it at the dealership
Great video. I use to burn my older VW TDI intakes with a torch too. Didn't think you could do the same on OM 642. Didn't you damage the swirl mechanism ?
You need to be more concerned about breaking the linkage that connects the swirl flaps to the motor. It's very brittle plastic, and to replace it you have to buy an aftermarket "kit" OR the OEM intake manifold {~$600}
I have not found a good reliable mechanic who can do that yet. Other people who have done it, still have the check engine light come up after a while. I still got the check engine light as well with a single code saying “Intake manifold runner stuck open”, that’s because I obviously left them open. On older OM642 engines, you could easily bypass the engine codes yourself with a simple 4.7K ohm resistor plugged into the swirl flap actuator connector but it doesn’t work with these later versions of the OM642 because the runner/rod that connects to all three flaps, has two notches build in that act as the flap’s “positioning sensor” which tell the ECU when the flaps are actually open or actually closed or semi open etc, and in older models these two notches are not there on the connecting rod/runner. That’s why it works there and all other youtubers making video how they found the holy grail but nobody shows how to bypass it on 2010 OM642 and up. On newer models the 4.7K ohm resistor will only bypass the swirl flap actuator/motor but the ECU can still see the “positioning sensors” which tells the actual open or close positions. There is no bypass for the flap’s positioning sensor. You can bypass the swirl flap motor because the ECU thinks it’s still running no matter what even though it’s broken but how can you bypass the flap’s positioning sensors when when the flaps at any given time need to be open or closed or semi open? It’s either working or not. That’s why I bought two new runners made of metal which, of course, have the two notches and I plan on doing this whole job again from scratch someday.
Ca bone vllaj si je? Une mir flm. Me shkruaj ketu skagje, do mundohem te te kthej pergjigje sa te kem mundesin dhe me aq sa di. Nuk jam mekanik thjesht rregulloj makina per aq sa me jepet vet.
@@AlbanianFix ruclips.net/video/VmkM6Ni3iNE/видео.html Kam nje cls 320. Me ben kte zhurmen si perplasje ajri, zakonisht e ben kur mbytet ne ndonje malore. E kam cuar ne servise po nderroj ojes kot dhr prap e ben . Ke ndonje ide cfar mund te jet ?
Sa e degjova per mua eshte Turboja. Dallohet direkt motori qe hap dhe mbyll rruget e ajrit (ne anglisht quhet Actuator dhe eshte ngjitur ne krah te majte te turbos, eshte plastike katrore e zeze) dhe mund te jete prishur ose djegur. Ne rastin tend ky motor rri gjith kohes i mbyllur dhe nuk hap farfallen qe te lejoj ajrin e tepert qe futet ne turbo te dali jashte por vetem mblidhet aty brenda dhe prandaj ka ato lloj zhurmash sepse plas ajri nga presioni i madh qe krijohet. Eshte fiks si puna e tenxheres me presion qe kur nxehet shum hapet farfalla qe te leshoj presjonin se perndryshe shperthen. Turbo me duket ne rregull si punim por paketa qe kontrollon hyrjen dhe daljen e ajrit (Actuator) ka per te prish dhe turbon po vazhdoj keshtu. Duhet nje elektraut i mirfillte mbase rregullon veç ate pjese qe te mos blesh nje komplet turbo te tere. Kjo Actuator duket dicka e tille si kjo ketu poshte: www.ebay.com/itm/Brand-New-FOR-BENZ-E-ML-R320-3-0CDI-ELECTRONIC-TURBO-ACTUATOR-765155-6NW009420-/143591914961?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292 Gjithsesi siç te thash, nuk jam mekanik por mua kjo me ra direkt ne sy. Ishalla me kaq edhe na lajmero çfare arrite te gjesh sepse ndihmon dhe te tjeret ketu qe mund te kene te njejten problem. Tung.
@@AlbanianFix ne fillim e kishte kinez accuatorin, ose paketene e turbos. Pasi po se sforcoja qe te bente zhurmen qe tja teegoja melanikut me prishi egrn. Ja nderrova kte kinezen me nje tjeter orgjinale po te perdorur. Dhe turbo i vendosa tjeter te rivizionuar por prap nje muabet .
@@tntvideos3055 Vallai ti ja paske bere sherbimet, nuk di çfare te them. Po kerkoja ne youtube videon qe tregon me se miri si te besh testin e actuatorit dhe gjeta kete ktu poshte. Mbase mund te arrish te gjesh dhe ti vet diçka me kte: ruclips.net/video/iOFuBNDU3NI/видео.html
Edhe mua me qan vaj serbetina por kur shoh se dashka kaq shume pune ta rregullosh as nuk po e luj hic por do i shtoj nga i cik vaj sa here te bjere niveli me poshte sec duhet.
Po shqipe ka shum pun, plus po e hape do i ndrrosh te gjitha guarnicionet ça te dali perpara. E kan bo shum keq kete dizenjim gjermont. Kam degjuar neper forume qe po ta mbash vajn te çereku i nivelit e ndihmon motorrin qe te kete me pak presion brenda dhe nuk do qaj me aq shum vaj jashte. Vetem se do e kontrollosh me shpesh pastaj se e ke nga fundi vajin.
@@AlbanianFix kjo e imja qan vetem kur eshte ne levizje me nje fjale mund te humbi 200 ose 300 gram vaj cdo 4 ose 5 muaj. Po te qendroj keshtu siç eshte tani per mua eshte ne rregull por kam hall se mos behet me keq me kalimin e kohes. Nivelin ja kontrolloj rregullisht. Ty bravo se qenke mjeshter me duar te arta. Gjithe te mirat te uroj vlla.
@@freemindas 4-5 muaj nuk eshte dhe aq keq... nuk ke ça ti besh shum ktij lloj problemi, eshte pjese e makines. Edhe po ti ndrrosh ato gominat siç i tregoj ne video, per 3-4 vjet ose 100 mije kilometra duhet tja ndrosh prap sepse fillon dhe rrjedh perseri. Vetem me e heq fare si makin :) po per mua nuk me prish pune... thjesht hidhi nga pak vaij edhe eshte ne rregull.
It depends... anywhere from 10, 20 K miles to 80,100 K miles until you have to do this again. It’s a very vague number because this issue is a design problem at the core thus it’s recommended to do it at least every 40K - 50K miles.
@@knockknockbusted No, unfortunately not. To me, it wasn't really an issue, it was just annoying that it would leak a little bit of oil and mines was leaking oil for a very long time before I decided to do this job. It would never create a puddle on my driveway though. It never hurt the engine as far as the oil level goes, unless you have a very big leak or don't do oil changes at recommended intervals which can lead to dramatically low oil levels and thus destroying your engine if it's not caught on time. But whenever I did oil changes, I noticed that the level on the dip stick barely moved but that might have been also because I do the changes every 5K miles so it probably never got a chance to go low. That's another + reason why I recommend doing oil changes twice as much as the recommended MB manual. Waste of money? No... I have a video showing in detail how to get free oil changes.
@@AlbanianFix sir, I completely agree. 5k miles for oil change (and tire rotation). I was not sure about the volume of oil loss, I will keep an eye on oil levels this go around. Currently one drop a week if the car sits a day in the garage. We love our sedan!!!
@@knockknockbusted I really love my E class too and if that's the biggest thing I have to do once in a while, so be it! I don't mind at all because I also look at it as a "Once in while engine Tune Up" since I change gaskets, clean the EGR, clean manifolds (as shown in video with blasting fire), clean all intake ports from sludge because that's what gives a diesel engine more life if you plan on keeping it for a long time.
![How to remove the intake manifold flaps on Mercedes 3.0, 3.5 CDI OM642 engines [Aditech24 Guide]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/GXhNAwEgTgk/mqdefault.jpg)
That intake assembly is a hell of thing to take off clean put back without damage,
lol, you're not kidding
Best video on the process of tackling the OM642 oil cooler seals I've seen on here. Many thanks for sharing!
Vielen Dank!
I just came here to say that as well! This shld be a bookmark of how these videos shld be DONE! I've never seen a better DIY video, no long talking, loud music, telling where stuff are, he showed it, well edited, just BRILLIANT!
All that aggro for a couple of bloody £2 gaskets…….Mercedes should ashamed. Great work bro !!
Thanks! I have your exact same 2011 BlueTec and your RUclipss have been a lifesaver. I’ve looked and I think you have the only 2011 bluetec content on RUclips and what you do is really good. I’m currently trying to replace my power steering pump and I was really hung on removing the fan until I saw you do it. I have the Mercedes Online Documentation system for my vin but it’s so big and complicated it’s hard to follow. I’ll be watch you now!
Thanks a lot Willie!
Thanks for posting this! I am looking at buying a car with this engine. Thankfully the oil cooler was replaced not that long ago at a cost over $3000. It makes perfect sense why almost $2K in labor!
It's like 10-12 hours job max so 2k it's a robbery tbh
@@jazda200 You're living in the past. There simply aren't any good mechanics out there charging less than $150/hr
@youtoobe169 what are you talking about overpriced usa ;) mate I'm stay in Scotland so my mate working in lexus garage in Edinburgh, after work Hi doing extra jobs and Hi charge 34£ hour labour I understand no one work for free but cmon man that's mental, only idiots pay that much for any labour that not rocket science tbh
@@jazda200 I must be an idiot then because I happily pay a competent mechanic to do a proper job on my car when the work is too complex for my skillset.
Nice video. Took me about 20-30 hours to complete. A couple tips: Harbor Freight offset box wrenches 32042 are great for the injector fuel lines if you slot them with a grinder. Mine was also leaking from the oil filter housing to block, oil filler cap, black plastic horizontal tube that the throttle body/flapper and egr bolts to. I also replaced the diaphragm in my pcv/ccv valve. It was stiff and letting too much oil into the intake. CRC water-based de-greaser from Autozone will make the aluminum and plastic parts look like new without much scrubbing. A small flathead screwdriver can loosen most of the electrical harnesses easier than pulling on the gray taps from the other side. Remove the EGR valve near the firewall on the passenger side. It will make getting the hose clamp near the firewall and the catalytic converter bolts much easier. Get the seals directly from the Mercedes dealer instead of buying OEM. The seals in the IDparts and Elring kits are an older revision. The Mercedes TSB on the oil cooler seals says not to use the older rev seals. The current generation are completely covered in purple viton. You can see metal near the center of the holes on the older ones. I didn't find that out until after I replaced them. My car had the current rev purple seals and they lasted about 85,000 miles before I replaced them.
Nice recap!
Looking for torque specification
No way a normal person with no expierince can pull a job like that. Taking it of looks easy, puting it back? idk man :DD Not sure if i m capable to remember how to put everything back without taking notes or pics! Nice video man, Thank you for sharing all that hard work
Lol 😂, it’s my second time as well doing this. Organizing is key!!! Either put all the screws and bolts back to where they belong after taking off a part or, like I did, make a quick layout/diagram of the engine on a piece of cardboard and punch the bolts through in their place.
@@AlbanianFix Do you have pic of that layout?
@@thebrodnaxs8304 I made the layout free-handed from scratch on a piece of cardboard. Basically roughly draw all of the bolts places where you take them out and punch them into the cardboard.
@@AlbanianFix thanks. If I end up having to do this I'll try it.
Bravo, e sqaruar shume qarte dhe profesionalisht !!!! Bravo Shqipe !
Faleminderit shqipe!!
Crazy, like a headache. Amazing job. You work like a magician! 🎩
Good video
Thanks from Spain
Thanks. Very helpful video. Keep up the goodwork and stay blessed.
Thank you!
Thanks for this video. Its really helpful for us car owners who have the same problem. We have an ML 350 bluetec sport that has the same problem, oil leaking. Took it to mercedez to have it checked first time theybdidint solved the problem. Tool it back again and they said it's the oil cooler seal. Can't believe they didn't get it right the first time when they have all the tools that they need to help them identify the culprit. Any ways they are charging us £140/hr and they said that it's an 8 hour job 😔
Wow sorry to hear that. I don’t know if this helps somewhat emotionally but here in the US, they charge around $4500 from what I’ve heard...
@@AlbanianFix OMG really?! Unfortunately our warranty company won't pay for it cos the fault was from wear and tear. We are more than happy to pay as long as the job is being done right. We'll go and get our car back tomorrow and we'll see if mercedez done a good job this time. Thank you so much for this video really really helpful.
@@sheilabravo01 Yeah hopefully they do. I mean, it'll be back on them if they didn't :)
Ask them if they had the chance to clean the manifolds since they were that deep into the engine and the swirl flaps were not stuck and in good shape. Ask if they used the new updated (Purple seals) for the oil cooler and also if the turbo was in good shape as well. I know that they might have already done all of that but at least it gives you a peace of mind and gives them a sense that you've done your homework on this issue. After the job is done, i would suggest to open the hood and pop the cover and take some crisp pictures around the engine and then compare after a couple of weeks driving it to see if there's still a leak or something.
@@AlbanianFix thank you so much you have time to reply to my sentiments 🙂 yes I did a lot of research on this matter just because mercedez didn't get it right the first time.. I wish I have seen your videos first so that it has save us money the first time they diagnosed our car. It's just so frustrating because they have all the equipment to help them find the culprit but they didn't see it the first time. Apparently they updated the seal in 2010, my question was to them how come our car has got the old seal when it was registered 2013, shouldn't it have the updated seal already? Just a thought. Anyways thank you for reminding me to ask those questions really appreciate it.
@@sheilabravo01 Well, to answer that question, your about to open a big can of worms. I don't know how true this is but I like to believe this story and will keep it as short as possible... The oil seals were never replaced with these very new Purple seals (Viton). They were replaced with other Orange seals like its predecessor that had better heat resistance but would fail just as bad. Mercedes announced that 2010 models and up have newer seals and "supposedly" worked as promised so it can change this issue from bein a recall item to a regular maintenance item. It's simply an engine design flaw and there's little to nothing you can do about it. Even the new Viton purple seals will fail as well but at least will last a little longer. In my opinion, at the end of the day, this oil leak form the seals is not too bad. Yes, it will leak and yes it's annoying and you need to keep checking on the oil level so it doesn't drop too much but it will not harm the engine. It's like a broken water faucet that leaks even when you shut it off completely but you still live with it. Don't the race the car and don't stomp on the gas and you'll be fine. I know people that have been driving with with issue for years and still refuse to fix it(or no money to do so). And I also know another guy who had exactly this same issue but failed to do regular oil changes (well past the recommended 10000 miles) and as little of a leak it is, the engine blew the head gasket from overheating and had no oil in it (his mistake).
If you love the car, and I do, the best thing you can do is to just keep up on the maintenance as follows:
Change oil every 5000 miles (Not recommended 10000). Dip stick should show oil level in the middle, don't go over!
Change air filters every 15000 (every 3rd oil change)
Change fuel filter every 15000 (every 3rd oil change)
All of the items above will cost you about $250, maybe less where you're at.
excellent work condensing that into that time frame
Thank you!!
I'm about to do this job on my R320. The access is the worst aparantly.
This is a great video mate., Well done and thanks for sharing. I'll definitely be referring to it 👍.
Thank you and good luck!
Wow. I think I'll deal with the oil leak until I have a month off from work haha
Lol, that’s funny you say this because I was still working while doing this project and it took me about a week working on the car utilizing 2-3 hours after work
@@AlbanianFix top job man. Congrats !
@@georgezoppis8291 Thank you!
@@AlbanianFix does that mean all OM642 Motor will have the same Problem?
I m driving an ML 350(2014) 140.000km currently and i dont have any oil leaking at all..
I let the oil change Regularly every year and haven t had any problem so far..
Great job mate, I agree it's a big job and no bloody way I'd do it myself. Taking it apart is easy but putting it together needs a genius like you ;). Thanks
PS: how long did it take you?
Thank you but trust me, no genius here. If you have a good open space, display all the parts with numbered steps, grab a piece of cardboard, make an outline of the bolts and stick them in the cardboard also describing how it was mounted. Take pictures of tricky parts and hold up a number beside it showing which step it is. I think I went all the way up to step 120ish.
I was really taking my time with it and was only working after work for a couple to a few hours. Took me about 7-8 days to take it apart and label everything and then took me about 4-5 days to put everything together.
Mercedes dealership quoted this job to be more than $5000 and expect it to be done in 13 hours.
Good luck 👍
Great video!
Thank you James O’Gara
bestes video zu dem thema
Vielen Dank!
Great Video!
Thx
You’re welcome!
Great video! I'm doing this oil cooler gasket replacement now and stuck on removing exhaust elbow. how do gain access to the bottom bolt?
That was the hardest bolt actually. The only way I was able to, was to use an impact joint socket. It has just the right length and the right flexibility to reach the bolt.
Thanks, great video !
Appreciate your feedback!
Gute Arbeit!
Vielen Dank!
Thank you so much. This is an absolutely superb video. This will be my go-to step by step guide if I ever need to do my E350 CDi. How do you know if the seal needs replacing? Does it leak water into the oil or vice-versa or does oil come out and drop on the ground?
Thanks a lot!
The oil doesn’t mix with water since the water’s seals are never at the hottest temperature like the oil seals are and therefore they’re always intact and almost never leak. The oil seals however are at much hotter temperature and therefore disintegrate and start to leak. Oil comes out and goes out through a drain hole (🤔 which is weird, seems like the engineers knew it’s going to leak) and after that it goes to the ground. This is one of the biggest oil leak issues with the late Diesel Mercedes but for me, all-in-all, it’s not that bad at all unless the leak is super bad.
Before going to all the effort of changing these oil cooler seals, change the PCV valve first. It's $30 and takes five minutes to change. The excess pressure from a faulty PCV valve caused my oil seals to leak but they don't anymore.
That’s also a very good possibility. Thanks for sharing!
Verrrrrrryyyyy nice. Perfekt
Thank you Hossein!
Bravo ma shqipe ❤
Tlumshin durt shqipe, respekt dhe sa ma shum video
Shum faleminderit Bardhyl !!
hello very nice video . when i was doing it the sensor on the left side inlet manifold got broken and i can not find the part number. can you tell me what that sensor it? if you pause the video at 12:19 you will see the one held in with a metal clip.
i need a new one thank you
Thanks!
I really appreciate the support Willie! Thanks again!
Thanks for very useful tutorial. Can we do the same with w213 e350 om642?
Thank you! Yes the 2017 has the same type engine. It might have some extra clips and cables you have to deal with but the concept is the same.
Good afternoon,
what screws, seals or other worn parts would you recommend to be replaced with oil cooler seals? So that we would have some peace for the next 150,000 km. Thank you very much.
There are plenty of kits actually that you can use for this job to replace screws and seals. They’re all over eBay and other websites.
The kits come complete with all those things that you’re removing which are also recommended parts to be changed.
Nicely done bro, have had the same leak on ML350, (wasnot too bad) however when I placed the purple seals, within two weeks i had a bigger leak then before. Took all apart thinking I misplaced the seal or something, but everything was placed perfectly..
So got me pair of orange seals again and did the whole thing al over. Anybode else expirienced the same with these stupid Purple seals which were suppoce to be better??
Hmm 🤔... this is the first I ever heard of... although, mine is starting to leak again recently, not as bad but I can see oil residue when I do oil changes. Might be from other places too... engine has some years and mileage on it 😅
Replace the oil filter housing gasket first. That fixed my oil leak. The rubber had hardened like plastic. Easy two hour job.
Hmm… I’ll check it out next time 👍
With all the oil changes I’ve done, the oil filter hosing has always been bone dry.
You're the best thank you for very detailed video. I am planning to do my 2009 GL320 bluetec very soon (lot of oil leak) and in the near future my 2013 E350 bluetec
Thanks man! To me, this is what RUclips is about, helping each other and save money wherever you can.
@@AlbanianFix do you know if the 2016 facelift coupe E350 BlueTec has the purple seals?
@@georgezoppis8291 They claim that models from 2012 and up have them updated to the purple seals but I'm not sure 100% though.
Nice work, excellent detailed content ! What was the mileage on that vehicle at the time of this service ?
I don’t remember exactly, maybe somewhere around 90K…
@@AlbanianFix Oh wow that isnt too much at all, thanks 🙂
thank you.
bravo shqipe , pune e shkelqyer
Faleminderit vllai!
Nga te gjitha videot qe kam pare keto dite, ti i kishe permbledhur ne nje. Bravo. Ke servis apo i ben per hobi keto? Nese ke servis do isha i nderuar nese do me jepje adresen. Je i vetmi ne Shqiperi qe e njeh motorrin OM642. Te tjeret me fusin friken per kete motorr. Nuk ben, prishet motori, motori me i keq ndonjehere etj etj.
Flm vlla por nuk kam servis. Une jetoj ne amerike dhe dashje padashje për të kursyer (sidomos ktu ne amerike) e kam bere hobi. Kjo pune ktu ne serviset e amerikes shkon diku tek 5000-6000 dollare Edhe e thone kshu pa ju dredhur qerpiku 😂
Vertet ne amerike ke leke dhe je ne gjendje te mire ekonomike por me duket idjotsi te shpenzosh çerekun e vleres se makines per nje difekt. Dmth ktu tek ne me 4 difekte te ksaj natyre i bie ta çosh per skrap se s’ja vlen ta rregullosh 😄 dhe me ato lek te blesh nje tjeter…
Kshu qe per mua nqs puna eshte per skrap, un me mire e shikoj njeher vete edhe tu pa tu bo…
Edhe kshu shkoj kjo pune pothuajse per çdo sherbim qe ka pas nevoj makina, nga tu pa tu bo, u kthye ne hobi 🙂
Për sa i perket te tjereve qe thone nuk bo si motorr, vetem nje pyetje beju:
Ne Gjermani, çfare makine perdorin per taksi?
Gati 90% e mjeteve jane Benz E250 ose E350.
Sa i shkon kilometrazhi atyre taksive?
Shkon deri ne gjysem miljoni kilometra po te mirmbahet me sherbimet ashtu siç duhet.
@@AlbanianFix ti bravo te qofte se qenke edhe oratorisht i pergatitur. Amerika mund te kete leke por une te sugjeroj me shpirt te vish ne Shqiperi te hapesh nje super servisin tend e te punosh me orare dhe rregulla si ne Amerike. Edhe une jashte jetoj por keto jane muajt e fundit. Te pyeta sepse sic te thash do kthehem dhe dua te blej nje Mercedes te tille C320 CDI w211 dhe ka motorrin OM642. E pata me frike sepse skam zgjidhje tjeter. Modein e vjeter nuk e dua. Modelet e reja jane te gjitha me kete motorr. Nese do ishe ti ne Shqiperi do e kisha te zgjidhur hallin. Te pershendes
e kutpova vlla 👍 C320 jane te mira si makina po ti rrish ne koke me sherbimet.
Te pershendes dhe une edhe Good Luck me makinen!
Is this the same problem with the 2015 cars? I just literally did all of the first part of this video earlier as my coolant flange was leaking... Well I think I have fixed it, just yet to drive it as I am in the process of changing all the suspension except shocks......🤦 Great video!
Oh wow your rebuilding it from ground up, nice 👍
Yeah, I believe the design is still the same but with significant improvements.
@@AlbanianFix thanks for your feedback cheers 👌
Hello, an absolute fabulous video I will be doing my e350 next week. How long approx did that job take you.
Thanks
Paul
Thank you! It took me about 2 weeks working on it 2-3 hours on average after work. Had a secondary car so I took my time plus recording it. Pretty sure you can do it much faster.
Excellent video. Like very much that you have edited the video with part numbers, tool size, etc. What is the plastic pack part # and where you bought it? The video shows that you pull out of the pack which has oil cooler gaskets, O-rings and all other needed seals. I am fixing on my 2012 ML 350 bluetec SUV that has the same problem, oil leaking, with 63k mileage only. I have taken out all necessary parts and having difficulty to find all seal/gasket/O-ring part numbers one-by-one and to order them. THANKS.
I included the link where I bought the parts in the comments. Thanks for the feedback!
@@AlbanianFix Thanks. I see the link now :0)
Are Mercedes Benz engine a little bit complix than others eninge?I'd like to do this on my GL320 but no space.
Yes, in every Mercedes, especially the new ones, there’s a little bit of German over-engineering in them. 😄
My friend, i have a 2011 E350 BlueTec like the one you’ve frequently worked on. My job is replacing its power steering pump, but I have to get things out of the way beforehand. I’m stuck on the fan shroud, which is half way out. I need it completely out to go to the next step. I have it 1/2 up but I can’t figure out if it’s even possible to get it completely out without disconnecting some of the hoses on the left and right side about mid way up. I have the radiator hose on top right disconnected and that got the shroud to the halfway point. Have you crossed this bridge before? I appreciate your thoughts. About the 2:27 point in this video.
Willie Chaffin
Abingdon VA
Hey Willie, the big return hose at the top-right was actually the main thing in the way when I was struggling. So taking that hose off, will give you enough room to push the fan to the right while lifting it up in a zig-zag way and dodging the tabs on the left of the fan shroud that are getting stuck between the pipes. One small little pipe you should definitely avoid hitting is the small plastic inlet at the top-left of the radiator. It brakes very easily! Ask me how I know.
@@AlbanianFix I’m taking it slowwww so I don’t end up with a problem. I learned today line #2 is part of the transmission oil cooling system. It lands on the oil cooler in front of the radiator. I’m going to clamp it with pinchers and take it loose.
Got to find out what line #1 is…. It might be part of the charge cooler, which I learned is Mercades name for turbo air cooler.
Is there anyway to upgrade to a better set of gaskets or something so that this issue can be avoided?
Not really, I believe the purple gaskets are the most up to date.
So these seals were updated to the Viton type with the W213?
Yeah 👍
I have read a theory that dust gets into those seals as the aliumiumin expands and contracts with the winter summer mine dose not leak yet, but I still blow the engine out regularly.
Hmm 🤔 interesting theory… might explain why it leaks in so many cars.
hi sir, i know it is old video, hope you still check your youtube. I got oil leak in the engine bay but i cant tell which it come from, basically everywhere. especially on the driver side. the oil level is still at max lv since it was only 2 month ago. Can I keep driving it for another month? really need a vehicle this month. Will this make any bigger damage to engine as long as i keep my eye on oil lv?
You can still drive it no problem as long as there’s enough oil in engine, it’s just gonna make a mess until you find the leak.
Is it needed to disconnect the battery first or not?
Yes, you can or yes it would be recommended.
Excellent work and camera work. I’m currently looking at an 2008 ML with only 69k miles and dealer serviced. I know this oil cooler leak would be looming and I’m reluctant to pull the trigger even though it’s a clean Florida car. I do a lot of shade tree mechanic stuff but would be hesitant to try this lol. My local go to diesel guy is also Albanian . Great guy and works at a MB dealership with a side hustle . What miles were on motor when you did this ?
Yeah we sure do love us some Mercedes especially when it’s a diesel. I had about 100K when I did this. Leak wasn’t significant but worth a try to stop it.
muy bueno ser
Gracias
👏 bravo
Thanks for the very detailed video with captions and tips - very professional.
My local dealer just informed me about oil cooler leak in my 2012 ML350 Bluetec.
They are charging 3,200 for it. I'm wondering if private mechanic shop might be cheaper.
What do you think?
Yeah, indis will be always cheaper than dealers but not sure how much though...
@@AlbanianFix do you think, $3,200 is reasonable?
Mine was quoted close to 4K. Yours is still not reasonable “for me” but depends if you got that money that you won’t really miss... 🤔
Hey f2ajack, if you live in the US, right now there’s a class settlement going for all owners of a bluetec mercedes and all qualifying ones can receive up to $3600. So there you go, you should be able to cash that money which can help you pay for this issue. Go to bluetecupdate.mbusa.com/home and check you vin number to see if it’s eligible. If it is, it should tell you around what time you can call your local dealership and check if they have your car on a recall list. Once you get your car done for free you can then apply to receive the money that’s promised to all bluetec owners.
@@AlbanianFix Thanks so much - looking into it and will definitely do it. much appreciated.
Hi, and thank you very much for your useful video!. I have a 2007 JEEP Commander CRD with the same M.B. OM642, lot of oil leak recently...not getting yet to the floor dough, so I think will do this job very soon, because I saw in the comments of another video that in some cases (with a bad oil cooler) the oil can be sucked by the cooling system (within the oil cooler) and then the problem will be really BIG...do you know something about this situation?.
Thank you! No, I haven't heard anything like this before but it can be quite possible for something like this to happen. On the other hand, I think that because the coolant never gets to such a high temperature like the oil does, the seals on the coolant side don't deteriorate like they do on the oil side explaining why all these issues is so common in oil leaks and not in coolant leaks.
@@AlbanianFix Thank you for your answer, and...would you recommend when doing this job, to change also de oil cooler itself?...how can we know if it's working well or not having some internal damage?
@@rodrigofabregas7756 Yeah, definitely! For me, I was ok with exchanging just the seals but if you need extra peace of mind, I would definitely replace the cooler as well since this job is big and time consuming and you don't want to do it again anytime soon.
There is a revised part 642 188 05 80, it is purple like the one you installed but is a little wider.
Me pelqen ky hobi jot😜
O Edisono…. Ku je o shqipe?? 😂
Pershendetje
Shum pun e bukur dhe flm per videon. Te njejten gje po bej edhe un ne nje Chrysler 300c v6. Deshta me dit à mund ta pastroj me benzin llomin e zi sepse nuk kam ate flaken ? Flm
Benzina nuk te bo shum pune, mund te pastrohet pak por jo aq sa duhet. Per mua 100 here me mire me zjarr.
Ket zjarr qe kam une, e ble ne dyqan shum kollaj 20-30 dollare. Me nje bombel gazi te thjesht dhe me fitilin e flakes e nez zjarrin brenda manifoldit te makines derisa te piqet llumi zi per nja 5-10 minuta edhe pastaj do e fikesh zjarrin dhe do e mbash flaken vetem me ajer te kompresum edhe llumi vazhdon edhe digjet si qymyr derisa te shkrihet fare.
Kte punen e zjarrit ta besh vetem nqs manifoldi eshte metal, jo plastik. Edhe hiq pjese te vogla rreth e rrotull qe jane plastike.
@@AlbanianFix Shum flm per pergjigjen dhe respekte per ju. Me pelqeu shum puna juaj dhe e shpjegoje kret sakte proceduren e punes. Po radiatorin e ftofjes se vojit e nderron apo thjesht vetem gominat plastike?
@@dedajemilian1645 un i ndrrova vetem gominat se nuk mu duk i demtuar. Por nqs e ke me merak edhe mund ta ndrrosh fare ftohsin.
@@AlbanianFix demtimi vetem nga jasht dallohet ?
@@dedajemilian1645 nga jasht me sy e shikon ose me sakte provoje ta verifikosh me xham. Vendose bazen e fthohesit mbi nje xham me pa qe a rri drejt dhe a perputhet 100% nga te gjitha anet apo ka hapesira qe do te thote se ftohesi eshte demtuar ose shtremberuar dhe nuk do bej 100% perputhje dhe me pas kur ti te vesh gominat ka per te rrjedh prap.
@Albanian Fix does that mean all OM642 Motor will have the same Problem?
I m driving an ML 350(2014) 140.000km currently and i dont have any oil leaking at all..
I let the oil change Regularly every year and haven t had any problem so far..
Not all of them, especially the new ones that are coming out it seems that they have looked at this issue and fixed it. I feel like that from 2013 and up the engine has had some new small upgrades from what I could tell when I opened the hood on a 2013 ML Bluetec.
Nice work just just removed turbo last night. Need to clean up before pulling cooler. This is not a fun job. Deleting Swirl flap motor and valves also.
Lol, I hear you!!! Not fun at all!
O shqipe bravo ke ber nje video te shkelqyer , ku ndodhesh ku e ke garazhen
Flm shqipe! Un jam ne South Carolina.
Hi mate iv forgot which bolts go where can you help me out plz
Just watch the video and you should be able to see the bolts and where they go.
Thanks for getting back to I will try thank you again
Curious about burning the soot out of the intakes. What is the risk of heat damage using the blow torch? Could it also be cleaned using solvent?
Yes, it can definitely be a risk for the aluminum intakes when using the torch for a long period of time. The torch is only there to “ignite” the soot much like igniting charcoal when you’re about to cook some steaks and then use just compressed air for the remainder to keep the fire going. The temperatures usually stay below the melting point of aluminum but hot enough to disintegrate the build up soot.
Also, I used a propane that has lower heat output than other propane cylinders to be more on the safety zone but still need to be very careful not to overdo it.
To answer your last question, yes there are tons of solvents. I’ve heard that dumping it in a bucket of diesel helps also.
we have 2011 e350 bluetec with 106000 miles. no one has done the timing chain yet, what is the best way to do it? chain feed and master link or front cover off and all new parts? i have not seen anyone do a full job yet
How bad is it? Do you for sure it’s a timing chain issue?
OM651 engine has this issue also. Throttle Valve is also doomed to fail sooner or later.
Be aware of these issues if you're looking to buy this car. Big and costly job to fix.
-W212 E220 2012 owner
Majstor svog zanata pozdrav
Hi, I got the same issue with the oil cooler leaking around 1 litre oil every month for about 1 year, I can see from your video the actual orange seal is still intact, what’s your opinion on using a LeakStop product to soften and expand the seals? I was thinking about the Lucus stop leak as it’s got a lot of good reviews online.
I don’t really believe in products like that as they tend to have other side/negative effects on the engine or the car’s overall performance. As I’ve mentioned in other comments before, in my opinion, this is not an issue that can be fixed permanently. The design of this oil cooler was not the best and because of that this should be seen as a “wear & tear” or as a “periodic maintenance” item much like an oil change that also needs attention from time to time to check oil level.
Great video. How long would the entire process take at a mechanics?
Thank you! I’m not sure... 3 - 4 hours maybe.
@@AlbanianFix 10 hours on the mechanic.
@@Tony-fh2wi wow, would have never guessed. Still seems a bit much though...
Dua lipa must be proud :D
Lol, yup 🤣😂🤣
Did the job myself and everything seemed to go right. But it’s taking 15 of cranking and it won’t start. How long does it take to prime this engine once it’s put back together?
It only took me about 6-7 cranks. Make sure you got all of the fuel lines hooked up right and all of the sensors back in place. Check fuel pressure by using the fuel filter’s line, first unhook and put it in a bottle or something to catch fuel just in case it squirts everywhere and then turn the key in the second position. Also make sure you can hear the fuel pump in the back of the car humming when you do this.
Albanian Fix I got it working after several cranks. I was told that turning the key to the second position for 15 minutes will also prime the fuel system. Not sure if it’s true but I seem to have a coolant leak from somewhere at the back/bottom of the engine... so I get to practice this repair and fuel system priming again...🤢
@@davidgarner3275 Nice! I figured you've already done that part but oh well it's up and running now, that's what's important :) ...As far the leak goes, check if the coolant leak is right between where the two manifolds meet. It's this part here:
www.fcpeuro.com/products/mercedes-intake-pipe-socket-gl320-genuine-mercedes-6420980037
With some bright light, you'll be still able to see the slit and probably see the actual leak from it. It's common that coolant will leak from this spot if the double O rings haven't been seated right with some good lubricant because they can easily be turned, twisted or even slip out of place while you try to butt the manifolds together...
Albanian Fix I did have some issues with that part twisting when getting the manifolds together-a few times- and it twisted on me. I’ll check it again but I think I got it to seat correctly. I used an assembly lube on it to make sure I didn’t roll or cut either of the gaskets. The leak seems to be in the back of the engine so it might be a hose.
I’ll start looking today and report back what I found so everyone can know what happened.
@@davidgarner3275 Oh I see... thanks for the feedback and we'll wait for your results. Good Luck!
Hi can you help me out plz what this sensor connect to its on top of pops out next to water hose
Send picture
youtube.com/@AlbanianFix?si=FDETTT2YmY51tRV
@@AlbanianFix I will send I don't know how to send trying it's the one that holds with a brackets under the black tub an come out the top
youtube.com/@AlbanianFix?si=FDETTT2YmY51tRVV
It's on top of the glow plug module bracket
Hello. How do you clean all the gunk out of the valley, making sure nothing falls into you oil lead holes and clog up something? Oil holes seem to be so low down they seem to easily act as a drain, sucking in misery 😃
When removing the oil cooler, you will be left with a liquid of oil and coolant residue all over the place. Get a shop vac and start cleaning that up then your left with with a slimy gunk that you’re gonna carefully pick it up after plugging the coolant and oil holes up. I used the foamy earplugs, just make sure you don’t slip them all the way through :) and then used a flat head screwdriver to clean the bigger pieces , then a microfiber towel or any other towel that will not disintegrate into little pieces and finally used brake cleaner to finish off the job but only on metal surfaces.
RESPEKTE SHQIPE TE LUMTE 🇦🇱🇦🇱🇦🇱
Faleminderit shqipe!!
But your old gaskets on the oil cooler seems not to have had any leaks?
I think it’s hard to see the leak like that. You can definitely see the valley was full of oil.
@@AlbanianFix
Hi how long did it take you to complete the whole job? I’ve had a leak from the air intake which has broken the swirl flap motor I’ve asked the mechanic whilst replacing that could he also replace the oil cooler gaskets he has said an extra £500 as he needs to remove the intake manifolds to me this like the easy part? Thanks for help!
How many hours for the repair start to finish? Please advise.
Depends on experience. Can take anywhere from 4-6 hours to 10-12 for non-experienced.
Nice job. But I can't understand why it sits in such a place, so hard to get to.
That’s the question everybody wonders too 😂
Did you drain the oil first ? Is it necessary ?
No for this repair I didn’t drain the oil. Yes you can change and I would advise to do so. I did end up changing the oil after a week myself.
Do you have any of the torque specs for this job?
Unfortunately, I don’t. I didn’t film myself putting everything back in except the oil cooler.
I see you used the same oil cooler.How did you check to make sure it was not warped? Some guys will lay the bottom on 120 grit sandpaper to see if it is flat. I'm doing this job now and not sure if I need to buy a new oil cooler.
I didn’t check much on it. I just laid it flat on my granite countertop and it seemed pretty flat to me. But the cooler uses so many bolts around it and it really comes down to the actual double rubber o-rings that are compressed down that I really think it’ll be fine.
You can buy a kit I think on IDparts or fcpeuro that comes with all the gaskets needed to do this job and a new oil cooler.
I've done this job about 7 times now and can't stress enough, replace EVERYTHING YOU CAN. Every oring or gasket, the cooler, the metal bevel that connects the intake manifold, etc.
@@carlbrutananadilewski8395 Got a giant coolant leak after doing my oil seals. While the car runs the coolant almost is running. I took it all apart did the whole thing again and now I got even a bigger coolant leak. its just running like a water fall as soon as i add coolant to the expansion tank. Anyone can help with what i missed?
Would this cause oil in coolant
Unless the leak is outrageously bad plus the seals on the coolant ports are bad as well then I wouldn’t worry about the oil cooler causing your issue. Your issue is extremely rare to be caused by this type of oil leak since the oil ports are on a slanted position to drip outwards of the oil cooler, through the drain hole, towards the transmission and then down to the ground (hence why some people mistake this oil cooler leak with the rear main seal leak). Another reason why it makes this issue even more rare is that the coolant ports, from what I’ve seen, never leak which means that it also never let anything to seep in. This is because on the coolant ports the heat never gets to high temps where the seals may fail compared to the oil ports where temperatures are much higher and hence why leaks are almost never found on the coolant side but almost always on the oil side.
Now, my answer to your issue is also not bullet proof but, like I said, if you have some extreme oil leak paired with some coolant leak and you can see both on the ground then yes, I can see that being the culprit of your issue.
Thanks for you reply, I have read it may be the oil cooler it’s itself as they can crack internally and cause the two to mix but want to be certain before I go stripping it down. The only other thing I can think of is maybe a head gasket.
@@joshcoleman8258 Yeah, the head gasket might be more a culprit which means you wouldn't be trading much when it comes to stripping the engine down since you have to go down the same way, either for the gasket or cooler. Good luck and come back here to let me/us know what you have found, it can help someone else down the road.
Great job nice video. I’m here in Ontario Canada I have a 08 grand Cherokee Om642. Oil leaking. I changed the turbo seal from orange to black Brand new Been a week or so. Not leaking bad but figured there would be leftover oil from the leak to burn off. Jeeps always been maintained has 295000 Kms on it and runs smoothly and strong. Been reading that putting to much oil in is bad. Question is. Should I keep the oil level just above the halfway point on dipstick. ?? Thanks for the help
Yes, I personally believe that having more oil can affect the pressure inside the crankcase thus pushing out oil from the seals. In my recent oil changes, I keep the oil level just a quarter above the minimum and I have seen less oil, not significant, but still less than before.
Thing is, doing it this way, you HAVE to make sure that you check oil FREQUENTLY because you don’t have any safety margins available and at any time your oil level might drop below minimum which then is also bad for the engine.
Sir,are you a mechanic or just a diy at home mechanic? Is this job ok for a guy with a bit of experience? Also was it easy putting it back together as mine is leaking very bad and im aldo going to put new turbo back on aswell myself?
No I’m just a DIY guy that knows a little bit about car engines. I believe that if you’re somewhat mechanically inclined and have a lot of patience during the process of noting where everything belongs, you should be good and not worry about it too much.
If you decide to do it, please let me know how it went.
@@AlbanianFix ok i will keep u informed when i start
Am working on 2015 gl 350 having trouble removing turbo.
Removal of the turbo starts at 9:24. Make sure all of those bolts as shown in the video are removed.
@@AlbanianFix am having trouble remove brack bolts di I remove bolts from block or turbo side
@@AlbanianFix also looking from top I see only one bracket bolt
@@user-jd4kp3lp9r share a picture here:
docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSfOh0E8Z-b781bnqTASxe5G-OBZbje_z9qUnzhjWJGMMfG20w/viewform
@@AlbanianFix thanks for it.
I am surprised the seals are the old type (orange), I thought 2011 had the new one...
I have the same 2011 engine, 265hp, mass flow pipe is different and output turbo pipe is also different. I suspect in my later version, seals are purple.
I have 255000km and no problem
Hmm... 🤔 but good for you. Did you buy it new or someone else already did the job?
@@AlbanianFix I don't know if it has been replaced before.
Got a giant coolant leak after doing my oil seals. While the car runs the coolant almost is running. I took it all apart did the whole thing again and now I got even a bigger coolant leak. its just running like a water fall as soon as i add coolant to the expansion tank. Anyone can help with what i missed?
Hey Viktor, look in the comments, there’s another guy where this same issue was discussed and he fixed it.
Also check this part:
www.fcpeuro.com/products/mercedes-intake-pipe-socket-gl320-genuine-mercedes-6420980037
Most of the leaks come from this part if the seals are bad or not seated in correctly.
This one is located right in between where the two manifolds connect.
Crazy!
All this for a £1 part!
That’s so true 😆 but on the same token that £1 can cost you £7000 or more in damages down the road 😅
I've got an oil leak on mine, enough to be topping up and oil on driveway.
Where does oil leak on the engine (in most cases) when the seals fail?
Mines in a garage (warranty)
And there putting it down the the TIP seal, which imo shouldnt cause such a leak that you can see it dripping down the N/S of the engine near the sump.
Either thay or its breathing heavy and there's more than should be coming out of there!
All of your theories make sense and could be very possible to happen. Still for the most part, the oil cooler seals always come up as the culprit and are the first things to suggested even at dealerships but, like I said, your other ideas make sense too.
@@AlbanianFix in doing this Job yourself is there anything else worth changing whilst all this is stripped down?
I've noticed access to glow plugs is easy whilst your in there!!
@@possle Oh yeah definitely! Glow plugs, cleaning the air intakes, fuel filter change, making sure the swirl flaps swing freely are a few I can think of...
@@AlbanianFix swirl flaps don't tend to brake at all do they?
Just make sure there clean and free
@@possle Yeah, just make sure they spin freely and are not stuck in either the closed of open position.
how many hours in total did this job take ?
It took me about 10 days (as much time left I had after work) for a total of approximately 10-12 hours (including filming at the same time for RUclips)
You based in the UK? I need a machanice to do this
No, I’m in the US.
Can i ask, if i don’t change it just let the engine keep leaking, what will happen?
Thanks is it dangeous?
A couple of other people have had the same question in this comment’s section... if you’d like to read them... but basically, nothing bad will happen unless the leak will get so bad that your engine will be low on oil constantly and you’ll have to top it off very often to avoid the engine blow out on you completely. Another thing that comes in my mind is that the leak might also be so bad that the oil will mix with the coolant since both ports that supply the coolant and oil are right next to each other but so far, after researching this issue for a while, I haven’t found anyone complaining about the coolant issue and the only leak that everybody is referring to is the oil leak. I believe since the oil being the hottest from the two, the rubber on that side wears out quicker and needs replacement.
@@AlbanianFix Thank you so much, the mb dealer in Richmond bc, said it would cost at least 2500 to fix, if something I don't understand become carbon it will cost 6000, to fire the carbon, I have no idea what it means. I am really doesn't know anything about cars. I already paid 3000 for the three year service plan, now this happens, since it's 2012 gl350 only 60k km, really donesn't worth the money to fix.
it only drips a few drops every day. I probably just leave it be.
Thank you so much again, for answering my question.
He probably meant cleaning all the carbon out like I did in this video with fire which is surprising to me that dealership would use such brute ways to clean out carbon deposits, usually they dip the engine parts in solution or something. Anyway, if you wanna let it be then you have to check oil levels at least once a week and top off when needed. Also keep in mind that oil level on the dip stick should be just below the middle mark, it helps the engine run a little smoother and have less blow by, since the pressure will be a little less in the crankcase.
@@AlbanianFix sorry to bother you again, the engine light come on and off, now it’s back on again, the code read saids p2413? Is it dangerous to drive with a bad egr? Thanks
@@maxbobo3904 Bad EGR will cause boost problems, your car will run slower, have bad mpg and the problem can worsen to the engine not being able to start at all eventually. I would take it out and clean it the best you can. There are video on here showing how people have succeeded in just cleaning the EGR alone and if the electronics on it went bad then you might want to look for another one. Let me know what happens.
Got it
Nice! What was it?
@@AlbanianFix i end up lifting turbo up little bit and angled it and seprated y pir and bracket from turbo.there was 2 bolts from engine side toward firewall.which attaches the y pipe and bracket.there was no other way.i played with for an hour.
@@user-jd4kp3lp9r Oh yeah, I remember that exact headache, lol.
How long does this job actually take to do.im just wondering how much labour cost a mechanic should charge
It’s hard to tell exactly. I did this in a week’s time, coming after work and just working a couple of hours on the car, much like a hobby. Taking my time and enjoying working on the car. Highly recommend to have a backup car… 😄
@@AlbanianFix thanks for your advise..Is it ok to drive like this and just keep topping up the oil ??
@@timoriordan1 yeah, it'll be fine "for a while", just be on point on the time intervals whenever you top it off, regularly check out the oil level and you'll be fine.
@@AlbanianFix thanks for your advice
Hello I did this and all of my oil spilled out, it’s a 2008 e320 bluetec , I am thinking the oil seals aren’t good
Oh what a sh** storm I can imagine... maybe the seals were pinched when you put the cooler back in? Or maybe a couple of screws weren’t tight enough...? Could you tell that the oil was spilled exactly from the seals?
@@AlbanianFix I couldn’t tell but I check the dip stick and it was dry ! I feel so depressed lol it took me forever to do it just to lose again
heartbreaking
@@OmarToubal did you tighten the fasteners on the oil cooler to the proper torque spec and in the proper sequence?
Use the WIS for repairs to get proper torque specs, especially things with seals.
ALSO, Even after you do the repair, you will get a lot of residual oil dripping until the valley is empty just an FYI. I know you said yours was empty so yeah the seals are probably leaking
@@carlbrutananadilewski8395 What's the WIS? And generally, what's a good source for repair instructions for this project and others?
Helal olsun bravo arkadaş sadece gasketi değiştirsem yeterlidir deyil mi ?😊
Evet gasketi değiştirmek yeterli bence.
How much
How much what?
@@AlbanianFix how much a job like this cost
@@aboodihn It depends where you live and what the prices of the MB dealers are. Mines was quoted around 4K. You can also try independent shops, maybe they're cheaper.
Are you fucking kidding me? This is definitely not a DIY project. You took half the engine apart! I’d rather get a part-time job and save $2000 and have them do it at the dealership
😂🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂 thanks mate, made my day!!!
Great video. I use to burn my older VW TDI intakes with a torch too. Didn't think you could do the same on OM 642. Didn't you damage the swirl mechanism ?
I kinda didn’t care because my initial thought was to do a swirl delete anyway but after the clean up, they seemed in pretty good shape still.
You need to be more concerned about breaking the linkage that connects the swirl flaps to the motor. It's very brittle plastic, and to replace it you have to buy an aftermarket "kit" OR the OEM intake manifold {~$600}
@@carlbrutananadilewski8395 Yes very true if you plan on keeping it :) not me though... I deleted it all together.
@@AlbanianFix what program did you use to delete the swirl flap CEL you get for not having them? Mercedes STAR is so damned expensive
I have not found a good reliable mechanic who can do that yet. Other people who have done it, still have the check engine light come up after a while. I still got the check engine light as well with a single code saying “Intake manifold runner stuck open”, that’s because I obviously left them open. On older OM642 engines, you could easily bypass the engine codes yourself with a simple 4.7K ohm resistor plugged into the swirl flap actuator connector but it doesn’t work with these later versions of the OM642 because the runner/rod that connects to all three flaps, has two notches build in that act as the flap’s “positioning sensor” which tell the ECU when the flaps are actually open or actually closed or semi open etc, and in older models these two notches are not there on the connecting rod/runner. That’s why it works there and all other youtubers making video how they found the holy grail but nobody shows how to bypass it on 2010 OM642 and up.
On newer models the 4.7K ohm resistor will only bypass the swirl flap actuator/motor but the ECU can still see the “positioning sensors” which tells the actual open or close positions. There is no bypass for the flap’s positioning sensor. You can bypass the swirl flap motor because the ECU thinks it’s still running no matter what even though it’s broken but how can you bypass the flap’s positioning sensors when when the flaps at any given time need to be open or closed or semi open? It’s either working or not. That’s why I bought two new runners made of metal which, of course, have the two notches and I plan on doing this whole job again from scratch someday.
O shok si kalove ? Ku e ke servisin ? Ke ndonje numer telefoni ?
Ca bone vllaj si je? Une mir flm. Me shkruaj ketu skagje, do mundohem te te kthej pergjigje sa te kem mundesin dhe me aq sa di. Nuk jam mekanik thjesht rregulloj makina per aq sa me jepet vet.
@@AlbanianFix ruclips.net/video/VmkM6Ni3iNE/видео.html
Kam nje cls 320. Me ben kte zhurmen si perplasje ajri, zakonisht e ben kur mbytet ne ndonje malore. E kam cuar ne servise po nderroj ojes kot dhr prap e ben . Ke ndonje ide cfar mund te jet ?
Sa e degjova per mua eshte Turboja. Dallohet direkt motori qe hap dhe mbyll rruget e ajrit (ne anglisht quhet Actuator dhe eshte ngjitur ne krah te majte te turbos, eshte plastike katrore e zeze) dhe mund te jete prishur ose djegur. Ne rastin tend ky motor rri gjith kohes i mbyllur dhe nuk hap farfallen qe te lejoj ajrin e tepert qe futet ne turbo te dali jashte por vetem mblidhet aty brenda dhe prandaj ka ato lloj zhurmash sepse plas ajri nga presioni i madh qe krijohet. Eshte fiks si puna e tenxheres me presion qe kur nxehet shum hapet farfalla qe te leshoj presjonin se perndryshe shperthen.
Turbo me duket ne rregull si punim por paketa qe kontrollon hyrjen dhe daljen e ajrit (Actuator) ka per te prish dhe turbon po vazhdoj keshtu. Duhet nje elektraut i mirfillte mbase rregullon veç ate pjese qe te mos blesh nje komplet turbo te tere.
Kjo Actuator duket dicka e tille si kjo ketu poshte:
www.ebay.com/itm/Brand-New-FOR-BENZ-E-ML-R320-3-0CDI-ELECTRONIC-TURBO-ACTUATOR-765155-6NW009420-/143591914961?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292
Gjithsesi siç te thash, nuk jam mekanik por mua kjo me ra direkt ne sy.
Ishalla me kaq edhe na lajmero çfare arrite te gjesh sepse ndihmon dhe te tjeret ketu qe mund te kene te njejten problem. Tung.
@@AlbanianFix ne fillim e kishte kinez accuatorin, ose paketene e turbos. Pasi po se sforcoja qe te bente zhurmen qe tja teegoja melanikut me prishi egrn. Ja nderrova kte kinezen me nje tjeter orgjinale po te perdorur. Dhe turbo i vendosa tjeter te rivizionuar por prap nje muabet .
@@tntvideos3055 Vallai ti ja paske bere sherbimet, nuk di çfare te them.
Po kerkoja ne youtube videon qe tregon me se miri si te besh testin e actuatorit dhe gjeta kete ktu poshte. Mbase mund te arrish te gjesh dhe ti vet diçka me kte:
ruclips.net/video/iOFuBNDU3NI/видео.html
Edhe mua me qan vaj serbetina por kur shoh se dashka kaq shume pune ta rregullosh as nuk po e luj hic por do i shtoj nga i cik vaj sa here te bjere niveli me poshte sec duhet.
Po shqipe ka shum pun, plus po e hape do i ndrrosh te gjitha guarnicionet ça te dali perpara. E kan bo shum keq kete dizenjim gjermont. Kam degjuar neper forume qe po ta mbash vajn te çereku i nivelit e ndihmon motorrin qe te kete me pak presion brenda dhe nuk do qaj me aq shum vaj jashte. Vetem se do e kontrollosh me shpesh pastaj se e ke nga fundi vajin.
@@AlbanianFix kjo e imja qan vetem kur eshte ne levizje me nje fjale mund te humbi 200 ose 300 gram vaj cdo 4 ose 5 muaj. Po te qendroj keshtu siç eshte tani per mua eshte ne rregull por kam hall se mos behet me keq me kalimin e kohes. Nivelin ja kontrolloj rregullisht. Ty bravo se qenke mjeshter me duar te arta. Gjithe te mirat te uroj vlla.
@@freemindas 4-5 muaj nuk eshte dhe aq keq... nuk ke ça ti besh shum ktij lloj problemi, eshte pjese e makines. Edhe po ti ndrrosh ato gominat siç i tregoj ne video, per 3-4 vjet ose 100 mije kilometra duhet tja ndrosh prap sepse fillon dhe rrjedh perseri. Vetem me e heq fare si makin :) po per mua nuk me prish pune... thjesht hidhi nga pak vaij edhe eshte ne rregull.
and i cursing about mk3 mondeo oil cooler place........
Lol 😂
You should get a power ratchet, your wrists will thank you later.
Lol, yes that's true but they're not powerful enough
Flm shum
Mi ke pshtu nja 1000€ me qit Video
How long will the repair last?
It depends... anywhere from 10, 20 K miles to 80,100 K miles until you have to do this again. It’s a very vague number because this issue is a design problem at the core thus it’s recommended to do it at least every 40K - 50K miles.
@@AlbanianFix wow. Ours is failing again after 30K miles, wondering if there was a more permanent fix.
@@knockknockbusted No, unfortunately not. To me, it wasn't really an issue, it was just annoying that it would leak a little bit of oil and mines was leaking oil for a very long time before I decided to do this job. It would never create a puddle on my driveway though. It never hurt the engine as far as the oil level goes, unless you have a very big leak or don't do oil changes at recommended intervals which can lead to dramatically low oil levels and thus destroying your engine if it's not caught on time. But whenever I did oil changes, I noticed that the level on the dip stick barely moved but that might have been also because I do the changes every 5K miles so it probably never got a chance to go low. That's another + reason why I recommend doing oil changes twice as much as the recommended MB manual. Waste of money? No... I have a video showing in detail how to get free oil changes.
@@AlbanianFix sir, I completely agree. 5k miles for oil change (and tire rotation). I was not sure about the volume of oil loss, I will keep an eye on oil levels this go around. Currently one drop a week if the car sits a day in the garage. We love our sedan!!!
@@knockknockbusted I really love my E class too and if that's the biggest thing I have to do once in a while, so be it! I don't mind at all because I also look at it as a "Once in while engine Tune Up" since I change gaskets, clean the EGR, clean manifolds (as shown in video with blasting fire), clean all intake ports from sludge because that's what gives a diesel engine more life if you plan on keeping it for a long time.