How are the bottoms of the 2nd, 3rd, etc. rows secured? From your video, it looks like they aren't secured at all and could easily lift from the surface in a mild breeze and possible lift enough to break in higher winds such as a hurricane.
My question too. Specifically, how does the system manage wind? "Weatherscreen" systems aren't integral, like wood siding or most sidings we've been using for decades, because they protect the wall but allow air to vent freely behind the panels too. They expect moisture to get behind the panels as water or vapor and give it a place to go when it does. But what if a 100 mph wind is attacking that wall and gets behind the panels? Will it blow them off the wall? I'm just looking into this now so I can only guess that the systems designed with "pressure compensation" or something like that, address that problem. What some people are seeking is a way to protect an exterior wall from all weather and wind up to 250 mph ideally, but CAT 5, which starts I believe about 165 mph would be a good start. If the house is concrete, wrapped in thermally unbroken insulation and has a radiant barrier as the exterior finish that requires a 1" airspace on one side, and you need an exterior finish to protect that, and the whole assembly has to be either self-supporting or attached to the concrete (inner) wall or both, the choices are fewer and expensive. We're also trying to avoid using man-made petro products too. If not for Global Warming, insulating panels like polyisocyanurate would not be used because they are manufactured from oil, and they eventually off gas sufficiently to lose 70% of their insulating value. (75 years or so) The houses we build from now on should last hundreds of years so having insulation that fails after 75, would be pretty stupid. The best natural insulation we have to replace it, is compressed rock wool at R 4/inch. Polyiso is R 6.6/inch, you can see why it's popular. However Global Warming has evicted all that from the conversation. Now we use whatever we have "on the shelf" to build shelters to withstand the storms and can generate enough electricity to be energy independent. I'm concerned personally with Coachella Valley California possibly the hottest place in America, hence the aluminum foil wrapping around the whole house and the roof. (Radiant barrier) Then fire suppression, so the latest design has a self-contained wave pool (8'x17' @ 48" deep) on the roof. An electric elevator replaces stairs inside, as the house has a basement, a sleeping floor and a living/kitchen floor and the roof top terrace. Each floor is less than 400 ft2 so the floor area of the living space including the basement but not the roof or decks comes to about 1000 ft2. It violates Palm Springs height code by about 14'. Material costs are high but it's a small house so total cost is "affordable" at roughly $150 K to build. Then there is about $125K worth of Solar PV, batteries, and elevator, a swimming pool and a ground source heat pump and central air system to buy and install. Land in PS is outrageous but options exist if you want to locate in a windier area. Out by the I-10 freeway north of town, their is a 3,000+ turbine wind farm. Most of PS is in a sheltered cove provided by the mountains, but as you move out of it, prices drop. I think the house would be worth $395K as built so it's not something you do to make money, just yet. It's something you do to survive. The winds are coming regardless, might as well build something that can handle them. For the record, I built a house like this (without all the equipment, but concrete and polyiso and a brick veneer) in Alabama about a dozen years ago. In addition to being all concrete block, re-enforced and grouted solid, the house had a "saferoom" inside of it, about 8'x12' (Laundry otherwise) that had solid concrete walls, roof (independent of the house structure) and a door rated to 250 mph. You can see some rough 3D Sketchup drawings of it at www.lisatec.com if you're curious. Not much wall detail in those plans, just the elevations and floor plan.
Can I drill into the panel to put on address numbers? What kind of bit is needed?
I might as well put silver on the walls..ridiculous pricing
For how many sq ft?
How are the bottoms of the 2nd, 3rd, etc. rows secured? From your video, it looks like they aren't secured at all and could easily lift from the surface in a mild breeze and possible lift enough to break in higher winds such as a hurricane.
No... thats what the clips are for. They all connect
any residential installers in los angeles area?
No sealing job needed?
My question too. Specifically, how does the system manage wind? "Weatherscreen" systems aren't integral, like wood siding or most sidings we've been using for decades, because they protect the wall but allow air to vent freely behind the panels too. They expect moisture to get behind the panels as water or vapor and give it a place to go when it does. But what if a 100 mph wind is attacking that wall and gets behind the panels? Will it blow them off the wall? I'm just looking into this now so I can only guess that the systems designed with "pressure compensation" or something like that, address that problem.
What some people are seeking is a way to protect an exterior wall from all weather and wind up to 250 mph ideally, but CAT 5, which starts I believe about 165 mph would be a good start. If the house is concrete, wrapped in thermally unbroken insulation and has a radiant barrier as the exterior finish that requires a 1" airspace on one side, and you need an exterior finish to protect that, and the whole assembly has to be either self-supporting or attached to the concrete (inner) wall or both, the choices are fewer and expensive. We're also trying to avoid using man-made petro products too.
If not for Global Warming, insulating panels like polyisocyanurate would not be used because they are manufactured from oil, and they eventually off gas sufficiently to lose 70% of their insulating value. (75 years or so) The houses we build from now on should last hundreds of years so having insulation that fails after 75, would be pretty stupid. The best natural insulation we have to replace it, is compressed rock wool at R 4/inch. Polyiso is R 6.6/inch, you can see why it's popular.
However Global Warming has evicted all that from the conversation. Now we use whatever we have "on the shelf" to build shelters to withstand the storms and can generate enough electricity to be energy independent.
I'm concerned personally with Coachella Valley California possibly the hottest place in America, hence the aluminum foil wrapping around the whole house and the roof. (Radiant barrier) Then fire suppression, so the latest design has a self-contained wave pool (8'x17' @ 48" deep) on the roof. An electric elevator replaces stairs inside, as the house has a basement, a sleeping floor and a living/kitchen floor and the roof top terrace. Each floor is less than 400 ft2 so the floor area of the living space including the basement but not the roof or decks comes to about 1000 ft2. It violates Palm Springs height code by about 14'. Material costs are high but it's a small house so total cost is "affordable" at roughly $150 K to build. Then there is about $125K worth of Solar PV, batteries, and elevator, a swimming pool and a ground source heat pump and central air system to buy and install. Land in PS is outrageous but options exist if you want to locate in a windier area. Out by the I-10 freeway north of town, their is a 3,000+ turbine wind farm. Most of PS is in a sheltered cove provided by the mountains, but as you move out of it, prices drop.
I think the house would be worth $395K as built so it's not something you do to make money, just yet. It's something you do to survive. The winds are coming regardless, might as well build something that can handle them.
For the record, I built a house like this (without all the equipment, but concrete and polyiso and a brick veneer) in Alabama about a dozen years ago. In addition to being all concrete block, re-enforced and grouted solid, the house had a "saferoom" inside of it, about 8'x12' (Laundry otherwise) that had solid concrete walls, roof (independent of the house structure) and a door rated to 250 mph. You can see some rough 3D Sketchup drawings of it at www.lisatec.com if you're curious. Not much wall detail in those plans, just the elevations and floor plan.
Ye
Do your research it’s very simple and lasts 30 plus years when installed PROPERLY
After you pay for all the hardware needed it a fortune to install....Not good
Thanks for adding that important information-very important to consider!
For how many sq ft? Doesn’t that determine the price?
It’s much less than metal panel, terracotta or phenolic panel systems.