Amazingly good video presentation. People don't realize how much time and effort it takes to produce this kind of repairs under the camera in a limited space of a laundry room and narrate it as one does the repair work. I personally won't attempt this kind of disassembly of a washer drum because I won't be able to do it. I like the technique of how to take off the front and top panels off, to access the top bolts and may be able to find an obvious problem, like loose bolts. Thank you for your excellent presentation.
Great video, matching my GE washer. Thanks. The original counterbalance holes were stripped. I just re-drilled existing holes and used 1/4 in screws with locking washers and self locking nuts.. Thank you for the idea and videos.
We figured out how to control the off-load spin-cycle issue much easier: Bought a 2800 lbs 20 foot tow cable from Harbor Freight for $12.00 and wrapped it tightly around BOTH washer and dryer (they are right next to each other). This was our solution: No banging or moving around. Very silent. Couldn't be more happy. In the last 18 months since we did this, only once did it require us to re-position the towels.
I tried all these fixes to get the washer to stop shaking. Here is how I fixed it. Take out the tub, it comes right out after removing the center bolt. Flip the tub upside down and shake it. Remove the $2.50 in coin trapped between the two parts of the tub. That's it, the shocks are fine, they slide on the rods, the springs are fine if not broken. Washer works like new.
My maybe five year old GE model GTW330ASK0WW does not have a removable front panel. It's one sheet of metal on the left, front and right sides. So what do I do for access? It's two weeks later now and I did find the answer to the above. Pull it out from the wall. Lean it back at about 45°. Go up through the open bottom and remove the oil from the two pulleys and belt. That fixes the balance problem on this model. I'm so pleased that it turned out to be so easy. Apparently the oil leaks down from the mechanism above the pulleys and belt. The belt then slips on the pulley and confuses the computer control for the balancing.
GE suspension rods don't fail as other brands seem to...the concrete blocks were not on 1990-2001 models.They were used on the S models, which had completely different suspension systems,1961-1989.The 1990 & later models self destructed in a few short years before they brought back the blocks.
thank you for your video, I had almost the exact washer, I fixed it followed your guide with little modification, it was the counter weight problem, went to ace hardware to find bolts rebolt it down, problem solved, thank you
Great video. How did you rule out the suspension rods as not being the problem? I have my washer partially disassembled and can't tell how much play they should have. Thanks.
I have a similar washer, but it doesn't have a concrete block it is a metal weight and in the spin cycle it makes a very loud grinding noise like metal to metal. I'm guessing it is the bearings are there any videos showing how to replace bearings on a washer like these thanks!
Engineer 1: Why don't we just weld a metal weight to it? Engineer 2: Because we want it to fall off so we can charge for parts and labor. Fuggin engineers, man.
Amazingly good video presentation. People don't realize how much time and effort it takes to produce this kind of repairs under the camera in a limited space of a laundry room and narrate it as one does the repair work. I personally won't attempt this kind of disassembly of a washer drum because I won't be able to do it. I like the technique of how to take off the front and top panels off, to access the top bolts and may be able to find an obvious problem, like loose bolts. Thank you for your excellent presentation.
Thank you for filming the noise at the start of the video so we know exactly what problem you're addressing.
Great video, matching my GE washer. Thanks. The original counterbalance holes were stripped. I just re-drilled existing holes and used 1/4 in
screws with locking washers and self locking nuts.. Thank you for the idea and videos.
Man, this was great. Mega thanks from Haiti! This was exactly our problem, and I was able to fix it based on your video. THANK YOU!
We figured out how to control the off-load spin-cycle issue much easier: Bought a 2800 lbs 20 foot tow cable from Harbor Freight for $12.00 and wrapped it tightly around BOTH washer and dryer (they are right next to each other). This was our solution: No banging or moving around. Very silent. Couldn't be more happy. In the last 18 months since we did this, only once did it require us to re-position the towels.
I tried all these fixes to get the washer to stop shaking. Here is how I fixed it. Take out the tub, it comes right out after removing the center bolt. Flip the tub upside down and shake it. Remove the $2.50 in coin trapped between the two parts of the tub. That's it, the shocks are fine, they slide on the rods, the springs are fine if not broken. Washer works like new.
My maybe five year old GE model GTW330ASK0WW does not have a removable front panel. It's one sheet of metal on the left, front and right sides. So what do I do for access?
It's two weeks later now and I did find the answer to the above. Pull it out from the wall. Lean it back at about 45°. Go up through the open bottom and remove the oil from the two pulleys and belt. That fixes the balance problem on this model. I'm so pleased that it turned out to be so easy. Apparently the oil leaks down from the mechanism above the pulleys and belt. The belt then slips on the pulley and confuses the computer control for the balancing.
GE suspension rods don't fail as other brands seem to...the concrete blocks were not on 1990-2001 models.They were used on the S models, which had completely different suspension systems,1961-1989.The 1990 & later models self destructed in a few short years before they brought back the blocks.
thank you for your video, I had almost the exact washer, I fixed it followed your guide with little modification, it was the counter weight problem, went to ace hardware to find bolts rebolt it down, problem solved, thank you
Thanks for the video same problem one bolt came loose and stripped the threads so I put a nut on the bottom of the bolt and problem solved
At the beginning of this video can you please show how to peel down the drum of the GE top washer beneath the front panel? Please?
Hey just had the same issue, used your vid as a tutorial. Thanks a lot!
Glad it helped!
Great video. How did you rule out the suspension rods as not being the problem? I have my washer partially disassembled and can't tell how much play they should have. Thanks.
I love the vise grip on the dryer control, lol, reminds me of everything my dad tried to fix
Thank you so much. I just follow your steps here and i jus did repair my washer :) more like for you.
Great job!
Thanks for vid man. Appreciate it. GOD BLESSING
Muy buen video joven,gracias
Awesome job. Good work!
Thank you! Cheers!
I have a similar washer, but it doesn't have a concrete block it is a metal weight and in the spin cycle it makes a very loud grinding noise like metal to metal. I'm guessing it is the bearings are there any videos showing how to replace bearings on a washer like these thanks!
Engineer 1: Why don't we just weld a metal weight to it?
Engineer 2: Because we want it to fall off so we can charge for parts and labor.
Fuggin engineers, man.
i’m getting a grinding sound when washing and spinning
Awesome job thank you
You bet
Mi lavadora no arranca deseo saver porq pero en español
Great video, dumb ass design. Got a load of broken concrete in the bottom of my washer
Wait! So you mean to tell me that GE incorporated a concrete block to help balance the washer machine???
That's pretty pathetic.
Cc cc
I THINK HE DON'T KNOW WHAT HE IS DOING!!!!