I have an 02 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.7 I aligned my front end toe in by using a tape measure with 1/32" accuracy marks. Used a identical section on front tires on each side. Measured back of front tires from drivers tire to passenger and compared that measurement to front side of tires from drivers side to passenger side front tire. Spec says to have a 1/16" toe in. Made sure both tie rod ends had the exact same measurement from Center link to end of threads. Both tie rod ends where MOOG. That way each tie rod had the exact same length from center so when I loosen the center link clamps to adjust it move both rod ends the same exact amount. If back side of tires was 48" from back side of tires then the front has to be 47-15/16" so it has 1/16" toe in. The repair manual says 1/16-1/8" inch is actually acceptable. To get 1/16" toe in your tie rod ends must be exact same length threaded or you must make each side 1/32" toe in which is much harder to accomplish. No tire wear on my vehicle I aligned myself. I'm sure newer models with electronics is not possible but mine is a 2002 and I know 99-04 Jeep WJs can do this. There camber and caster are locked in on frame so only adjustment is the front toe unless you have faulty/worn out steering or suspension components.
I agree with this guy, but also one thing to notice, that he didn't comment on in the video, is that while tightening up the jam nut, he also turned the tie rod a little which inevitably means that it moved in or out of the tie rod end a little. That's one of the problems with tie rods that screw in and out of the ends. The rod itself can't turn during an end replacement or it's another point where the alignment will change. I also noticed that pretty much no one mentions this in videos about tie rod end replacement. They all say to mark the tie rod with paint or marker or to count the turns but no one mentions that if the tie rod itself turns while screwing on the tie rod end or tightening the jam nut, that it defeats the whole purpose.
I agree with you totally. That could of been enough to throw off the alignment. Would of been nice to see it marked first, then seeing the alignment. That inner moved, that's why he grabbed the wrench to hold it.
Great video. When I take off the tie rod because of a new dust boot, I draw a straight line from the inner tie rod, jam nut and to the outer tie rod. I count the turns of the tie rod and also of the jam nut. In the mean time I keep an eye on the line I drew on the inner tie rod and keep the inner tie rod at the same position. At reinstalling the jam nut and the outer tie rod (after installing the new dust boot) I count the turns I wrote down and still keeps the inner tie rod in the same position. Alignment was the same before and after.
Great video and I appreciate mechanics like you very much! If only all mechanics would use torque wrenches and take the time to understand the greater picture of things like an alignment, then things like my wheel falling off my F150 cause three bolts holding the tire snapped off the wheel bearing after an insane amount of over tightening would not happen. A younger guy who was helping out when they were working on my car had been doing that all day and no one noticed. Thankfully I was getting to a light and slowing down. I had my three year old at the time in the back seat. I can imagine if my wife with the kids was driving on the highway. This is why I do most of the stuff myself but sometimes I just don't have the equipment or time and it's difficult to know who to trust.
The problem with counting threads is the length of the tie rods are not consistent. The specification of this area of the tie rod has a large plus/minus. Counting the threads should not be used on any vehicle without doing an alignment. I've seen variations of up to 1/4" in the length of the tie rod.
I can accept that the alignment should be done, but did you check the alignment before replacing the tie rod end? That will be proof positive you should do it. (I was at work and used CC, so if you mentioned that in the audio it may not have been turned in to CC.)
Exactly that was my first thought, it could have been that far off before changing the tie-rod end. the only accurate way to do that is to check the alignment before and after.
Looked like the locking nut was frozen. Now did you heat it or did it break loose. Also you replaced the tie rod end. Different from the tie rod. Pending on mileage I do recommend both. But great video. I shared it on the company facebook page. Thank you
To clarify my comment a little better. Forged tie rods are generally forged two up and then cut in the middle. Where they are cut may not be held to a tight tolerance, so there can be a rather large difference in the length of two tie rods. If you get a chance, pick up a half dozen forged tie rods of the same part number and compare lengths. I think you will find that the length of some depending on where they are manufactured can vary significantly
I have an 02 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.7
I aligned my front end toe in by using a tape measure with 1/32" accuracy marks.
Used a identical section on front tires on each side.
Measured back of front tires from drivers tire to passenger and compared that measurement to front side of tires from drivers side to passenger side front tire.
Spec says to have a 1/16" toe in.
Made sure both tie rod ends had the exact same measurement from Center link to end of threads. Both tie rod ends where MOOG.
That way each tie rod had the exact same length from center so when I loosen the center link clamps to adjust it move both rod ends the same exact amount.
If back side of tires was 48" from back side of tires then the front has to be 47-15/16" so it has 1/16" toe in.
The repair manual says 1/16-1/8" inch is actually acceptable.
To get 1/16" toe in your tie rod ends must be exact same length threaded or you must make each side 1/32" toe in which is much harder to accomplish.
No tire wear on my vehicle I aligned myself.
I'm sure newer models with electronics is not possible but mine is a 2002 and I know 99-04 Jeep WJs can do this. There camber and caster are locked in on frame so only adjustment is the front toe unless you have faulty/worn out steering or suspension components.
I agree with this guy, but also one thing to notice, that he didn't comment on in the video, is that while tightening up the jam nut, he also turned the tie rod a little which inevitably means that it moved in or out of the tie rod end a little. That's one of the problems with tie rods that screw in and out of the ends. The rod itself can't turn during an end replacement or it's another point where the alignment will change. I also noticed that pretty much no one mentions this in videos about tie rod end replacement. They all say to mark the tie rod with paint or marker or to count the turns but no one mentions that if the tie rod itself turns while screwing on the tie rod end or tightening the jam nut, that it defeats the whole purpose.
Your comment is useless if the car is going on the alignment rack a minute after the new tie rods are installed.
I agree with you totally. That could of been enough to throw off the alignment. Would of been nice to see it marked first, then seeing the alignment. That inner moved, that's why he grabbed the wrench to hold it.
Great video. When I take off the tie rod because of a new dust boot, I draw a straight line from the inner tie rod, jam nut and to the outer tie rod. I count the turns of the tie rod and also of the jam nut. In the mean time I keep an eye on the line I drew on the inner tie rod and keep the inner tie rod at the same position. At reinstalling the jam nut and the outer tie rod (after installing the new dust boot) I count the turns I wrote down and still keeps the inner tie rod in the same position. Alignment was the same before and after.
Great video and I appreciate mechanics like you very much! If only all mechanics would use torque wrenches and take the time to understand the greater picture of things like an alignment, then things like my wheel falling off my F150 cause three bolts holding the tire snapped off the wheel bearing after an insane amount of over tightening would not happen. A younger guy who was helping out when they were working on my car had been doing that all day and no one noticed. Thankfully I was getting to a light and slowing down. I had my three year old at the time in the back seat. I can imagine if my wife with the kids was driving on the highway. This is why I do most of the stuff myself but sometimes I just don't have the equipment or time and it's difficult to know who to trust.
The problem with counting threads is the length of the tie rods are not consistent. The specification of this area of the tie rod has a large plus/minus. Counting the threads should not be used on any vehicle without doing an alignment. I've seen variations of up to 1/4" in the length of the tie rod.
I can accept that the alignment should be done, but did you check the alignment before replacing the tie rod end? That will be proof positive you should do it. (I was at work and used CC, so if you mentioned that in the audio it may not have been turned in to CC.)
Exactly that was my first thought, it could have been that far off before changing the tie-rod end. the only accurate way to do that is to check the alignment before and after.
Exactly that would bust the theory
Great Job as always John!
Looked like the locking nut was frozen. Now did you heat it or did it break loose. Also you replaced the tie rod end. Different from the tie rod. Pending on mileage I do recommend both. But great video. I shared it on the company facebook page. Thank you
If I only change the front passenger tie rod do i need an all wheel alignment or am i good with just front two alignment?
Replacing left & right sides axels, four wheel alignment recommend
Do you still list lubricating at 3000 miles or do you know say every service or when do you say now
To clarify my comment a little better. Forged tie rods are generally forged two up and then cut in the middle. Where they are cut may not be held to a tight tolerance, so there can be a rather large difference in the length of two tie rods. If you get a chance, pick up a half dozen forged tie rods of the same part number and compare lengths. I think you will find that the length of some depending on where they are manufactured can vary significantly
Measure the old tie rod with the new and compensate accordingly, its not rocket science......
Great video👍
Tie rod nut is being torqued down with the wheel turned!
Cars are so flimsy these days that anything can knock their alignment out
When you tightened the nut you screwed the inner thread in/shorter, causing the poor reading.
You need an alignment after tie rod change, period.